degrees of strength of brandy, rum, arrack, gin, whiskey, and other
spiritous liquors, chiefly composed of little else than spirit of wine,
are determined by the quantity of alcohol of a given specific gravity
contained in the spiritous liquors of a supposed unknown strength. The
great public importance of this subject in this country, where the
consumption of spiritous liquors adds a vast sum to the public revenue,
has been the means of instituting many very interesting series of
experiments on this subject. The instrument used for that purpose by the
Customs and officers of Excise, is called _Sikes_'s hydrometer,[88]
which has now superseded the instrument called _Clark_'s hydrometer,
heretofore in use.
The specific gravity or strength of the legal standard spirit of the
Excise, is technically called _proof_ or _proof spirit_. "This liquor
(not being spirit sweetened, or having any ingredient dissolved in it,
to defeat the strength thereof,) at the temperature of 57° Faht. weighs
exactly 12/13th parts of an equal measure of distilled water;" and with
this spirit the strength of all other spiritous liquors are compared
according to law.
The strength of spirit stronger than _proof_ or _over proof_, as it is
termed by the revenue officers, is indicated by the bulk of water
necessary to reduce a given volume of it, to the legal standard spirit,
denominated _proof_--namely; if one gallon of water be required to bring
twenty gallons of brandy, rum, or any other spirit, to proof, that
spirit is said to be _1 to 20 over proof_. If one gallon of water be
required to bring 15, 10, 5, or 2 gallons of the liquor to _proof_, it
is said to be 1 to 15, 1 to 10, 1 to 5, and 1 to 2, _over proof_.
The strength of brandy, rum, arrack, gin, or other spiritous liquors,
weaker than _proof_, or under _proof_, is estimated by the quantity of
water which would be necessary to abstract or bring the spirit up to
proof.
Thus, if from twenty gallons of brandy one gallon of water must be
abstracted to bring it to proof, it is said to be 1 in 20 under proof.
If from 15, 10, 5, or 2 gallons of the liquor, 1 gallon of water must be
abstracted to bring it to proof, it is said to be 1 in 15, 1 in 10, 1 in
5, and 1 in 2 under proof.
It is necessary to understand this absurd language, which is in use
amongst the officers of Excise and dealers in spirit, in order to know
what is meant in commerce by the strength of spiritous liquors of
different denominations. And hence, for the business of the exciseman, a
table has been constructed, expressing the strength or specific gravity
of mixtures of different proportions of spirit and water, at different
degrees of temperature; and according to this table the duty on spirit
is now levied.
Brandy and rum is seizable, if sold by, or found in the possession of,
the dealer, unless it possesses a certain strength.[89] The following
are the words of the Act:
"No distiller, rectifier,[90] compounder or dealer, shall serve or send
out any foreign spirits, of a lower strength than that of 1 in 6 under
hydrometer proof,[91] nor have in his possession any foreign spirits
mixed together, except shrub, cherry or raspberry brandy, of lower
strength than as aforesaid, upon pain of such spirits being forfeited;
and such spirits, with the casks and vessels containing the same, may be
seized by any officer of Excise."
We have, therefore, a ready check against the frauds of the dishonest
dealers, in spiritous liquors. If the spirit merchant engages to deliver
a liquor of a certain strength, the hydrometer is by far the most easy
and expeditious check that can be adopted to guard against frauds of
receiving a weaker liquor for a stronger one; and to those individuals
who are in the habit of purchasing large quantities of brandy, rum, or
other spiritous liquors, the hydrometer renders the greatest service.
For it is by no means an uncommon occurrence to meet with brandy, rum,
and other spiritous liquors, of a specific gravity very much below the
pretended strength which the liquor ought to possess.
The following advice, given to his readers,[92] by the author of a
Treatise on Brewing and Distilling, may serve to put the unwary on their
guard against some of the frauds practised by mercenary dealers.
"It is a custom among retailing distillers, which I have not taken
notice of in this directory, to put one-third or one-fourth part of
proof molasses brandy, proportionably, to what rum they dispose of;
which cannot be distinguished, but by an extraordinary palate, and does
not at all lessen the body or proof of the goods; but makes them about
two shillings a gallon cheaper; and must be well mixed and incorporated
together in your retailing cask; but you should keep some of the best
rum, not adulterated, to please some customers, whose judgment and
palate must be humoured."
"When you are to draw a sample of goods to shew a person that has
judgment in the proof, do not draw your goods into a phial to be tasted,
or make experiment of the strength thereof that way, because the proof
will not hold except the goods be exceedingly strong; but draw the
pattern of goods rather into a glass from the cock, to run very small,
or rather draw off a small quantity into a little pewter pot and pour it
into your glass, extending your pot as high above the glasses as you can
without wasting it, which makes the goods carry a better head
abundantly, than if the same goods were to be put and tried in a phial."
"You must be so prudent as to make a distinction of the persons you have
to deal with; what goods you sell to gentlemen for their own use, who
require a great deal of attendance, and as much for time of payment, you
must take a considerably greater price than of others; what goods you
sell to persons where you believe there is a manifest, or at least some
hazard of your money, you may safely sell for more than common profit;
what goods you sell to the poor, especially medicinally, (as many of
your goods are sanative,) be as compassionate as the cases require."
"All brandies, whether French, Spanish, or English; being proof goods,
will admit of one point of _liquor_[93] to each gallon, to be made up
and incorporated therewith in your cask, for retail, or selling smaller
quantities; and all persons that insist upon having proof goods, which
not one in twenty understands, you must supply out of what goods are not
so reduced, though at a higher price."
Such is the advice given by Mr. Shannon.
The mode of judging by the taste of spiritous liquors is deceitful. A
false strength is given to a weak liquor, by infusing in it acrid
vegetable substances, or by adding to it a tincture of grains of
paradise and Guinea pepper. These substances impart to weak brandy or
rum, an extremely hot and pungent taste.
Brandy and rum is also frequently sophisticated with British molasses,
or sugar-spirit, coloured with burnt sugar.
The flavour which characterises French brandy, and which is owing to a
small portion of a peculiar essential oil contained in it, is imitated
by distilling British molasses-spirit over wine lees;[94] but the
spirit, prior to being distilled over wine lees, is previously
deprived, in part, of its peculiar disagreeable flavour, by
rectification over fresh burnt charcoal and quick-lime. Other
brandy-merchants employ a spirit obtained from raisin wine, which is
suffered to pass into an incipient ascescency. The spirit thus procured
partakes strongly of the flavour which is characteristic to foreign
brandy.
Oak saw-dust, and a spiritous tincture of raisin stones, are likewise
used to impart to new brandy and rum a _ripe taste_, resembling brandy
or rum long kept in oaken casks, and a somewhat oily consistence, so as
to form a durable froth at its surface, when strongly agitated in a
vial. The colouring substances are burnt sugar, or molasses; the latter
gives to imitative brandy a luscious taste, and fulness _in the mouth_.
These properties are said to render it particularly fit for the retail
London customers.
The following is the method of compounding or _making up_, as it is
technically called, _brandy_[95] for retail:
Gallons
"To ten puncheons of brandy 1081
Add flavoured raisin spirit 118
Tincture of grains of paradise 4
Cherry laurel water 2
Spirit of almond cakes 2
-------
1207
"Add also 10 handfuls of oak saw-dust; and give it _complexion_ with
burnt sugar."
METHOD OF DETECTING THE ADULTERATIONS OF BRANDY, RUM, AND MALT SPIRIT.
The false strength of brandy or rum is rendered obvious by diluting the
suspected liquor with water; the acrimony of the capsicum, and grains of
paradise, or pepper, may then be readily discovered by the taste.
The adulteration of brandy with British molasses, or sugar-spirit,
becomes evident by rubbing a portion of the suspected brandy between
the palms of the hands; the spirit, as it evaporates, leaves the
disagreeable flavour which is peculiar to all British spirits. Or the
liquor may be deprived of its alcohol, by heating a portion in a spoon
over a candle, till the vapour ceases to catch fire on the approach of a
lighted taper. The residue thus obtained, of genuine French brandy,
possesses a vinous odour, still resembling the original flavour of the
brandy, whilst the residue, produced from sophisticated brandy, has a
peculiarly disagreeable smell, resembling gin, or the breath of habitual
drunkards.
Arrack is coarsely imitated by adding to rum a small quantity of
pyroligneous acid and some flowers (acid) of benzoe. The compound thus
produced, however, must be pronounced a bad one. The author of a very
popular Cookery Book,[96] directs two scruples of benzoic acid to be
dissolved in one quart of rum, to make "_mock arrack_."
MALT SPIRIT.
Malt spirit, or gin, the favourite liquor of the lower order of people,
which is characterised by the peculiar flavour of juniper berries, over
which the raw spirit is distilled, is usually obtained from a mixture of
malt and barley: sometimes both molasses and corn are employed,
particularly if there be a scarcity of grain. But the flavour of
whiskey, which is made from barley and oats, is owing to the malted
grain being dried with peat, the smoke of which gives it the
characteristic taste.
The malt distiller is not allowed to furnish, under a heavy penalty, any
crude or raw spirit to the rectifier or manufacturer of gin, of a
greater strength than seven per cent. over proof. The rectifier who
receives the spirit from the malt distiller is not allowed, under a
certain penalty, to sweeten the liquor with sugar or other substances;
nor is he permitted to send out the spirit to his customers but of a
certain strength, as is obvious from the following words of the Act:
"No rectifier or compounder shall sell or send out any British brandy,
British rectified spirits, British compounds, or other British spirits,
of greater strength than that of one in five under hydrometer proof[97]:
and if he shall sell and send out any such spirits of a greater strength
than that of one in five under hydrometer proof, such spirits, with the
casks or vessels containing the same, shall be forfeited, and may be
seized by any officer of Excise; and he shall also forfeit treble the
value of such spirit, or 50_l._ at the election of the King's
attorney-general, or the person who shall sue for the same; the single
value of such spirits to be estimated at the highest London Price.[98]"
If we examine gin, as retailed, we shall soon be convinced that it is a
custom, pretty prevalent amongst dealers, to weaken this liquor
considerably with water, and to sweeten it with sugar. This fraud may
readily be detected by evaporating a quantity of the liquor in a
table-spoon over a candle, to dryness; the sugar will thus be rendered
obvious, in the form of a gum-like substance, when the spirit is
volatilised.
One hundred and twenty gallons of genuine gin, as obtained from the
wholesale manufactories, are usually _made up_ by fraudulent retailers,
into a saleable commodity, with fourteen gallons of water and twenty-six
pounds of sugar. Now this dilution of the liquor produces a turbidness;
because the oil of juniper and other flavouring substances which the
spirit holds in solution, become precipitated by virtue of the water,
and thus cause the liquor to assume an opaline colour: and the spirit
thus weakened, cannot readily be rendered clear again by subsidence.
Several expedients are had recourse to, to clarify the liquor in an
expeditious manner; some of which are harmless; others are criminal,
because they render the liquor poisonous.
One of the methods, which is innocent, consists in adding to the
weakened liquor, first, a portion of alum dissolved in water, and then a
solution of sub-carbonate of potash. The whole is stirred together, and
left undisturbed for twenty-four hours. The precipitated alumine thus
produced from the alum, by virtue of the sub-carbonate of potash, acts
as a strainer upon the milky liquor, and carries down with it the finely
divided oily matter which produced the blue colour of the diluted
liquor. Roach, or Roman alum, is also employed, without any other
addition, for clarifying spiritous liquors.
"_To reduce unsweetened Gin._[99]
"A tun of fine gin 252 gallons
"Water 36
-----
"Which added together make 288 gallons
"The _doctor is now put_ on,
and it is further reduced
with water 19
-----
"Which gives Total 307 gallons of gin.
"This done, let 1 lb. of alum be just covered with water, and dissolved
by boiling; rummage the whole well together, and pour in the alum, and
the whole will be fine in a few hours."
"_To prepare and sweeten British Gin._[100]
"Get from your distiller an empty puncheon or cask, which will contain
about 133 gallons. Then take a cask of clear rectified spirits, 120
gallons, of the usual strength as rectifiers sell their goods at, put
the 120 gallons of spirits into your empty cask.
"Then take a quarter of an ounce of oil of vitriol, half an ounce of
oil of almonds, a quarter of an ounce of oil of turpentine, one ounce of
oil of juniper berries, half a pint of spirit of wine, and half a pound
of lump sugar. Beat or rub the above in a mortar. When well rubbed
together, have ready prepared half a gallon of lime water, one gallon of
rose water; mix the whole in either a pail, or cask, with a stick, till
every particle shall be dissolved; then add to the foregoing,
twenty-five pounds of sugar dissolved in about nine gallons of rain or
Thames water, or water that has been boiled, mix the whole well
together, and stir them carefully with a stick in the 133 gallons cask.
"To _force down_ the same, take and boil eight ounces of alum in three
quarts of water, for three quarters of an hour; take it from the fire,
and dissolve by degrees six or seven ounces of salt of tartar. When the
same is milk-warm pour it into your gin, and stir it well together, as
before, for five minutes, the same as you would a butt of beer newly
fined. Let your cask stand as you mean to draw it. At every time you
purpose to sweeten again, that cask must be well washed out; and take
great care never to shake your cask all the while it is drawing."
Another method of fining spiritous liquors, consists in adding to it,
first, a solution of sub-acetate of lead, and then a solution of alum.
This practice is highly dangerous, because part of the sulphate of lead
produced, remains dissolved in the liquor, which it thus renders
poisonous. Unfortunately, this method of clarifying spiritous liquors, I
have good reason to believe, is more frequently practised than the
preceding method, because its action is more rapid; and it imparts to
the liquor a fine _complexion_, or great refractive power; hence some
vestiges of lead may often be detected in malt spirit.
The weakened spirit is then sweetened with sugar, and, to cover the raw
taste of the malt spirit, _false strength_ is given to it with grains of
paradise, Guinea pepper, capsicum, and other acrid and aromatic
substances.
METHOD OF DETECTING THE PRESENCE OF LEAD IN SPIRITOUS LIQUORS.
The presence of lead may be detected in spiritous liquors, as stated on
pages 70 and 86. The cordial called shrub frequently exhibits vestiges
of copper. This contamination, I have been informed, is accidental, and
originates from the metallic vessels employed in the manufacture of the
liquor.
METHOD OF ASCERTAINING THE QUANTITY OF ALCOHOL IN DIFFERENT KINDS OF
SPIRITOUS LIQUORS.
The quantity of real alcohol in any spiritous liquors may readily be
ascertained by simple distillation, which process separates the alcohol
from the water and foreign matters contained in the liquor. Put any
quantity of brandy, rum, or malt spirit diluted with about one-fourth
its bulk of water, into a retort fitted to a capacious receiver, and
distil with a gentle heat. The strongest spirit distils over first into
the receiver, and the strength of the obtained products decreases, till
at last it contains so much water as no longer to be inflammable by the
approach of a lighted taper, when held in a spoon over a candle (see p.
160.) If the process be continued, the distilled product becomes milky,
scarcely spiritous to the smell, and of an acidulous taste. The
distilling operation may then be discontinued. If the first, fourth or
third part of the distilled product has been set apart, it will be
found a moderately strong alcohol, and the remainder one more diluted.
If the whole distilled spirit be mixed with perfectly dry subcarbonate
of potash, the alcohol will float at the top of the potash, as stated,
p. 161; it will separate into two distinct fluids. If the decanted
alcohol be redistilled carefully with a very gentle heat, over a small
portion of dry quick lime, or muriate of lime, it will be obtained
extremely pure, and of a specific gravity of about 825, at 60° of
temperature. Its flavour will vary according to the kind of spiritous
liquor from which it is obtained.
_Table exhibiting the Per Centage of Alcohol (of 825 specific gravity)
contained in various kinds of spiritous Liquors._[101]
Proportion of
Alcohol per Cent.
by Measure.
Brandy, Cogniac, average proportion of 4 samples 52,75
Ditto, Bourdeaux, ditto ditto 54,50
Ditto, Cette 53,00
Ditto, Naples, average of 3 samples 53,25
Ditto, Spanish average of 6 samples 52,28
Rum 53,68
Ditto, Leeward, average of 9 samples 53,00
Scotch Whiskey, average of 6 samples 53,50
Irish Ditto, average of 4 samples 54,25
Arrack, Batavia 49,50
Dutch Geneva 52,25
Gin (Hodges's,[102]) 3 samples, procured from retail dealers 48,25
Ditto (Ditto,)[102] procured from the manufacturer 52,35
FOOTNOTES:
[88] George III. c. xxviii. May 1818--"An Act for establishing the use
of Sikes's hydrometer in ascertaining the strength of spirit, instead of
Clark's hydrometer."
[89] Sixteen and a half per cent. proof, according to Sikes's
hydrometer.
[90] 30 Geo. III c. 37, § 31.
[91] According to Clarke's hydrometer.
[92] Observations on Malted and Unmalted Corn, connected with Brewing
and Distilling, p. 167; and Shannon on Brewing and Distilling, p. 232,
233.
[93] Water.
[94] This operation forms part of the business of the so-called brewers'
druggists. It forms the article in their Price Currents, called _Spirit
Flavour_.
Wine lees are imported in this country for that purpose: they pay the
same duty as foreign wines.
[95] Observations on Malted and Unmalted Corn, connected with Brewing
and Distilling, p. 167.
[96] Apicius Redivivus, 2d edition, p. 480.
[97] Clark's hydrometer.
[98] 30 Geo. III. c. 37, § 6.
[99] Shannon on Brewing and Distilling, p. 198.
[100] Ibid. p. 199.
[101] Repository of Arts, p. 350, Dec. 1819.
[102] Own experiment.
_Poisonous Cheese._
Several instances have come under my notice in which Gloucester cheese
has been contaminated with red lead, and has produced serious
consequences on being taken into the stomach. In one poisonous sample
which it fell to my lot to investigate, the evil had been caused by the
sophistication of the anotta, employed for colouring cheese. This
substance was found to contain a portion of red lead; a method of
sophistication which has lately been confirmed by the following fact,
communicated to the public by Mr. J. W. Wright, of Cambridge.[103]
"As a striking example of the extent to which adulterated articles of
food may be unconsciously diffused, and of the consequent difficulty of
detecting the real fabricators of them, it may not be uninteresting to
relate to your readers, the various steps by which the fraud of a
poisonous adulteration of cheese was traced to its source.
"Your readers ought here to be told, that several instances are on
record, that Gloucester and other cheeses have been found contaminated
with red lead, and that this contamination has produced serious
consequences. In the instance now alluded to, and probably in all other
cases, the deleterious mixture had been caused ignorantly, by the
adulteration of the anotta employed for colouring the cheese. This
substance, in the instance I shall relate, was found to contain a
portion of red lead; a species of adulteration which subsequent
experiments have shewn to be by no means uncommon. Before I proceed
further to trace this fraud to its source, I shall briefly relate the
circumstance which gave rise to its detection.
"A gentleman, who had occasion to reside for some time in a city in the
West of England, was one night seized with a distressing but
indescribable pain in the region of the abdomen and of the stomach,
accompanied with a feeling of tension, which occasioned much
restlessness, anxiety, and repugnance to food. He began to apprehend the
access of an inflammatory disorder; but in twenty-four hours the
symptoms entirely subsided. In four days afterwards he experienced an
attack precisely similar; and he then recollected, that having, on both
occasions, arrived from the country late in the evening, he had ordered
a plate of toasted Gloucester cheese, of which he had partaken heartily;
a dish which, when at home, regularly served him for supper. He
attributed his illness to the cheese. The circumstance was mentioned to
the mistress of the inn, who expressed great surprise, as the cheese in
question was not purchased from a country dealer, but from a highly
respectable shop in London. He, therefore, ascribed the before-mentioned
effects to some peculiarity in his constitution. A few days afterwards
he partook of the same cheese; and he had scarcely retired to rest, when
a most violent cholic seized him, which lasted the whole night and part
of the ensuing day. The cook was now directed henceforth not to serve up
any toasted cheese, and he never again experienced these distressing
symptoms. Whilst this matter was a subject of conversation in the house,
a servant-maid mentioned that a kitten had been violently sick after
having eaten the rind cut off from the cheese prepared for the
gentleman's supper. The landlady, in consequence of this statement,
ordered the cheese to be examined by a chemist in the vicinity, who
returned for answer, that the cheese was contaminated with lead! So
unexpected an answer arrested general attention, and more particularly
as the suspected cheese had been served up for several other customers.