POULTRY (VOLAILLE)
Although the term “poultry” (Fr. volaille), in its general sense,
implies Turkeys, Geese, Ducks and Pigeons, just as well as Fowls, only
the latter are meant, from the culinary standpoint, when the word
“Volaille” appears on a menu.
Four qualities of fowl are recognised in cookery, and each plays its
part, has its uses, and is quite distinct from the other three. We
have:—
(1) _Pullets and capons_; usually served whole, either as relevés or
roasts.
(2) _Chickens_, so-called “à la Reine”; used for _sautés_ and chiefly
for roasts.
(3) _Spring chickens_; best suited to _en cocotte_ or grilled
preparations.
(4) _Chicks_; served only _en cocotte_ or grilled.
_Suprêmes_ and _ailerons_ of fowl, which are among the finest entrées,
are supplied by chickens à la Reine or by Spring chickens.
Finally, there are the giblets, consisting of the pinions, necks,
gizzards, and livers of fowl, which give rise to a number of
preparations, the recipes whereof I shall give briefly at the end of
the series.
1443—PULLETS AND CAPONS FOR RELEVÉS
Pullets and capons for relevés and entrées are poached or _poëled_;
sometimes, but more rarely, they are braised.
The birds to be treated by poaching are trussed with the claws folded
back and inserted into the belly; their fillets and legs are rubbed
with lemon, so as to keep them white, and they are then covered with
thin slices of larding bacon.
The ingredients for chicken poaching stock were given under No. 249.
The bird is known to be cooked when the blood which issues from a prick
on the leg is white or faintly pink.
These fowls are sometimes larded or studded. When this is to be done,
dip the legs and belly of a trussed and lemon-rubbed fowl into boiling
white stock; this will be found to sufficiently harden the flesh to
allow of its being treated in the required way. The products used for
studding and larding are, according to circumstances, ham or tongue,
truffles or mushrooms, and sometimes, the red part of a carrot for the
larding. Only truffles, ham and tongue are used for studding.
_Poëled fowls_ are trussed as above; they are covered with slices
of bacon in order that the fillets may be protected during the
first stages of the cooking; then they are cooked in butter on
_poëling_-aromatics, under cover and in a deep, thick saucepan. When
the piece is almost cooked, just moisten it a little, either with rich
poultry-stock, with the cooking-liquor of truffles or mushrooms, with
Madeira, red or white wine, &c. This moistening serves in the basting
of the fowl and must therefore be renewed if it reduces too quickly.
After having been cleared of all grease, it is always added to the
sauce which accompanies the piece of poultry.
_Braised fowls_ are always treated after the manner described under
No. 248; they are not rubbed with lemon, but they are covered with
slices of bacon. The latter should only cover the breast, but be thick,
notwithstanding; for they protect the belly, which, without them, would
shrivel by the time the legs cooked.
The covering of bacon is essential to all pieces of poultry, whether
these be poached, poëled, braised or roasted.
1444—THE WAY TO SERVE POULTRY RELEVÉS QUICKLY AND HOT
I feel bound to call the reader’s attention to this very important
point in culinary work:—
Owing to the difficulties involved in the carving of the fowl and
the placing and arranging of the pieces and their garnish upon the
consumers’ plates—both of which operations require dexterity and
expertness, which those in charge very often do not possess, or thanks
to the inefficiency of particular installations, or what not, I have
noticed for some considerable time, that the method of serving large
pieces of poultry is, in many cases, very far from being the right one.
For, indeed, how often does not the diner find himself presented with a
plate of fowl which is neither appetisingly dainty nor yet sufficiently
hot! It follows from this, that all the care and trouble devoted by a
chef to the preparation of the dish are entirely wasted. Now, I have
tried to improve this state of affairs, by planning a method of serving
which would be at once simple and expeditious, without necessarily
being devoid of tastefulness and presentability.
In the first place, it is my practice to remove the fowl’s two
_suprêmes_, in the kitchen, and to keep them warm in a little
cooking-liquor until the last minute. Secondly, I remove all the bones
of the breast, and I reconstruct the fowl with a garnish in keeping
with the dish, _i.e._, either a _mousseline_ forcemeat, pilaff rice
combined with cream, foie gras and truffles, spaghetti, or noodles with
cream.
Having properly smoothed and arranged the selected garnish, the fowl
may now be placed, either at one end of any but a round dish, or on a
low cushion of fried bread, on which it may be set firmly.
It may also be entirely coated with Mornay sauce, sprinkled with grated
cheese, and speedily glazed.
When the body of the bird is dished, its garnish should be set round
it in fine, tartlet crusts; its _suprêmes_, quickly sliced, should be
distributed among the tartlets, and the dish sent to the table with the
sauce separately.
By this means, it reaches the table hot, it is served quickly and
cleanly; and every person gets a slice of meat, and not garnish only,
as was so often the case formerly.
Instead of tartlets, one may use thin _croûtons_ of bread, of the size
of the slices of chicken, and fried in fresh butter.
Thus, for a “Poularde à la Derby,” after having stuffed the pullet with
rice, suppressed the bones of the breast, and removed the _suprêmes_;
all that is necessary is to properly shape the rice, and to dish the
fowl on a cushion.
This done, prepare as many _croûtons_ and slices of foie-gras, _sautéd_
in butter, as there are diners, and arrange them round the pullet—the
slices of foie-gras lying on the _croûtons_. Now, quickly cut the
_suprêmes_ into slices; put one of these on each slice of foie-gras,
and on each of the latter put a slice of truffle. Put the pullet, thus
prepared, in the oven for a few minutes; let it get very hot, and send
it to the table with the sauce separately.
In the dining-room the Maître-d’hôtel quickly serves the garnished
_croûtons_ on hot plates, beside each _croûton_ he puts a tablespoonful
of the rice with which the pullet has been stuffed, and, finally, a
tablespoonful of sauce.
In less than two minutes after its entrance into the dining-room, the
pullet is thus served warm to each person.
Of course, the above measures refer to the fowl that has to be dished
whole and presented; but, when this is not required, the rice withdrawn
from the cooked bird need only be set in the centre of a deep, square
entrée dish (fitted with a cover), and surrounded by the sliced
_suprêmes_, with intercalated slices of foie-gras and truffle. The
sauce is also served separately in this case. Cover the dish, so that
it may stand and keep hot a few minutes, if necessary, without spoiling.
The legs, which are rarely served at a well-ordered dinner, remain in
the kitchen together with the carcass.
I cannot too strongly recommend the system just described, whenever
the circumstances allow of its being put into practice. It is the
only one that ensures an efficient service, calculated to give entire
satisfaction to all concerned.
1445—POULARDE ALBUFERA
Stuff the pullet with the rice prescribed under No. 2256, and poach it.
Dish it and coat with Albuféra sauce.
Surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with truffles raised by
means of a spoon the size of a pea; quenelles of the same shape; small
button mushrooms, and cocks’ kidneys. Cohere this garnish with Albuféra
sauce.
Between each tartlet, place a slice of salted tongue, cut to the shape
of a cock’s comb.
1446—POULARDE ALEXANDRA
Having larded the pullet with tongue and truffle, poach it.
This done, remove the _suprêmes_, and replace them by _mousseline_
forcemeat; smooth this forcemeat, giving it the shape of the pullet in
so doing, and set to poach in the front of the oven.
Now, coat the piece with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly. Dish, and
surround with tartlet-crusts garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered
with butter; place a collop of the reserved _suprêmes_ (which should
have been kept hot) on each tartlet, and border the dish with a thread
of pale glaze.
1447—POULARDE AMBASSADRICE
Stud the pullet with truffles, cover it with a Matignon (No. 227), wrap
it in muslin, and braise it.
Remove the _suprêmes_; suppress the bones of the breast; fill the
carcass with a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and
arrange this garnish as already described under No. 1444.
Slice the _suprêmes_, and put them back on the garnish, in suchwise as
to reconstruct the breast of the fowl. Coat the piece with somewhat
stiff and fine suprême sauce; dish it, and surround it with lamb
sweet-breads, studded with truffles, braised and glazed, and alternate
the sweetbreads with little faggots of asparagus-heads.
1448—POULARDE ANDALOUSE
_Poële_ the pullet. Dish it, and coat it with its _poëling_-liquor,
combined with _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce. On either side of it set some
capsicums, stuffed with rice, and some roundels of egg-plant, seasoned,
dredged and tossed in butter; alternating the two products.
1449—POULARDE A L’ANGLAISE
Poach the pullet, and coat it with a Béchamel sauce flavoured with
chicken-essence.
Dish it and surround it with slices of salted tongue, laid tile-fashion
on either side; and heaps of carrots and turnips (cut to the shape of
balls) and peas and celery, at either end. All these vegetables should
be cooked _à l’anglaise_; _i.e._, either in boiling water or in steam.
1450—POULARDE A L’AURORE
Poach the pullet without colouration; dish it, and coat it with an
“Aurore Sauce” (No. 60). Surround it with medium-sized, decorated
quenelles; and trimmed oval slices of salted tongue, arranged according
to fancy.
1451—POULARDE A LA BEAUFORT
Stuff the pullet with a fine foie-gras, stiffened in the oven for
twenty minutes with a little Madeira, and cooled.
Fill up the pullet with a little, fine sausage-meat; stud it with
truffles, and braise it in short moistening.
Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with braised, lambs’ tongues,
alternated with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with a rosette of Soubise
purée. As an adjunct, use the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.
1452—POULARDE BOUILLIE A L’ANGLAISE
Cook the pullet in light, white stock with one lb. of breast of bacon
and a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. Dish, and surround with
the bacon, cut into slices.
Serve, separately, an English parsley sauce, and a sauceboat of the
pullet’s cooking-liquor.
1453—POULARDE AUX CÉLERIS
_Poële_ the pullet, and baste it towards the close of the operation
with strong veal stock.
Prepare a garnish of braised celery.
Dish the pullet; surround it with the braised celery, and cover the
latter with the _poëling_-liquor.
1454—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BRUN
_Poële_ the pullet, and swill the saucepan with mushroom essence. Add
this swilling-liquor (reduced) to one-quarter pint of half-glaze with
Madeira.
Dish the pullet, and surround it with twenty grooved and cooked
mushroom-heads. Serve separately the reduced half-glaze, to which add
two oz. of fresh butter.
1455—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BLANC
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce flavoured with mushroom
essence.
Surround it with twenty grooved, cooked and very white mushroom-heads.
1456—POULARDE CHANOINESSE
Prepare a “Poularde Soufflée” after recipe No. 1518. Dish it, and
surround it with small heaps of crayfishes’ tails, alternated with
small _croûtons_ of fried bread, on each of which place a collop of the
_suprêmes_. Finish off with a slice of truffle on each collop of the
_suprêmes_.
Serve a Mornay sauce, finished with crayfish butter, separately.
1457—POULARDE CHÂTELAINE
_Poële_ the pullet without letting it acquire too much colour.
Dish it, and surround it with small artichoke-bottoms, stewed in butter
and garnished with Soubise.
Alternate the artichoke-bottoms with small heaps of chestnuts cooked in
consommé and glazed.
Pour a little thickened _poëling_-liquor on the bottom of the dish, and
serve what remains of it, separately, in a sauceboat.
1458—POULARDE CHEVALIÈRE
Remove the _suprêmes_, and the minion fillets. Lard the former with two
rows of truffles and two rows of tongue; trim the minion fillets; make
five or six slits in each; insert a thin slice of truffle half-way into
each slit, and draw the respective ends of the two fillets together
in suchwise as to form two rings. Put the _suprêmes_ and the minion
fillets each into a buttered sautépan, and cover the latter.
Remove the pullet’s legs, keeping the skin as long as possible; bone
them to within one and one-third inches of the joints, and cut off the
claws, aslant, just below the same joints. Garnish the boned regions
with godiveau prepared with cream close the opening by means of a few
stitches of strong cotton, and truss each leg in such a manner as to
imitate a small duck.
Poach these stuffed legs in stock made from the pullet’s carcass.
Also poach the _suprêmes_ and the minion fillets in good time, with a
little mushroom cooking-liquor, and a few drops of lemon juice.
With a pinch of flour mixed with water, stick a fried _croûton_ (the
shape of a pyramid, three inches high and of two inch base) in the
middle of a dish.
Around this pyramid, arrange the two stuffed legs and the two
_suprêmes_; putting each of them on a decorated quenelle with the view
of slightly raising them. Set the minion fillets on the legs, and,
between the latter and the _suprêmes_, lay small heaps of cocks’ combs
and kidneys, and some very white mushroom-heads. Pierce the _croûton_
with a _hatelet_ garnished with one truffle, one fine cock’s comb, and
a large mushroom.
Serve a suprême sauce separately.
N.B.—This dish is generally bordered, either with noodle-paste, white
English paste, or with a chased silver border.
1459—POULARDE CHIMAY
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of half-poached noodles, tossed in
butter, and combined with a little cream and three oz. of foie-gras cut
into large dice.
_Poële_ it gently; dish it, and coat it with some of its
_poëling_-liquor, thickened.
Distribute over the pullet a copious amount of raw noodles, _sautéd_
in clarified butter; and serve the remainder of the thickened
_poëling_-liquor separately.
1460—POULARDE CHIPOLATA
_Poële_ the pullet and put it into a _terrine à pâté_ with a garnish
consisting of small, glazed onions; chipolata sausages, poached in
butter; chestnuts cooked in consommé; fried pieces of bacon; and, if
desired, some small glazed carrots.
Add the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and simmer for ten minutes before
serving.
1461—POULARDE A LA CHIVRY
Poach the pullet. Dish it and coat it with Chivry sauce (No. 78).
Serve a _Macédoine_ of new vegetables; cohered with butter or cream,
separately.
1462—POULARDE CUSSY
Braise the pullet. Dish it and surround it with whole truffles,
cooked in _Mirepoix_ with Madeira, and alternated with fine, grilled
mushrooms, garnished with artichoke purée.
In front of the pullet set a small, silver shell, in which shape a
pyramid of large cocks’ combs, heated in butter.
1463—POULARDE EN DEMI-DEUIL
Between the skin and the fillets of the fowl insert a few fine slices
of raw truffle. Lard the pullet and poach it.
When it is ready, strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; reduce
it, and add it to a very white suprême sauce, containing slices of
truffle.
Dish the pullet; cook it with some of the sauce, and send what remains,
separately, in a sauceboat.
1464—POULARDE DEMIDOFF
_Poële_ the pullet. When it is three-parts done, put it into a
_cocotte_ and surround it with the following garnish, prepared in
advance and stewed in butter; viz:—one-half lb. of carrots and five oz.
of turnips, cut into grooved crescents, one inch in diameter; five oz.
of small onions cut into thin roundels, and five oz. of celery.
Complete the cooking of the pullet with this garnish, and add to
it, when about to serve, three oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of
crescents, and one-sixth pint of chicken stock.
Serve the preparation in the _cocotte_, after having cleared the liquor
of all grease.
1465—POULARDE DERBY
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256; and _poële_
it. Dish, and surround it with collops of foie-gras, tossed in butter
(each set on a small, fried _croûton_), and alternate these with large,
whole truffles, cooked in champagne.
As an adjunct, serve the pullet’s cooking-liquor, cleared of all
grease, combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles and one-sixth
pint of veal gravy. Reduce the whole to one-sixth pint and thicken with
arrow-root.
1466—POULARDE DIVA
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach
it without colouration.
Dish it, and coat it with suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika.
Send a garnish consisting of _cèpes_ with cream, separately.
N.B.—This dish was served for the first time to Mme. Adelina Patti, the
great singer.
1467—POULARDE DEVONSHIRE
Bone the breast of a fine pullet; season it inside, and fill it with a
chicken forcemeat, prepared with cream and mixed with half its weight
of very fine sausage-meat.
In the middle of the pullet set a nice salted and cooked calf’s tongue,
trimmed and cleared of all cartilage; and place it so that its thin
end lies in the region of the bird’s tail.
Sew up the pullet’s belly with thin string, allowing the skin
sufficient play not to tear under the pressure of the forcemeat, which
swells while cooking. Truss, cover the pullet with a slice of larding
bacon, poach, and drain it.
When about to serve, make an incision around the breast with the point
of a knife; detach the stuffing with the blade of a knife, passed
horizontally on a level with the spine, and cut off, at a stroke, the
piece consisting of the pullet’s breast, the stuffing, and the calf’s
tongue.
Dish the carcass with the legs and wings still attached, on a low
cushion. Cut the breast, lengthwise, into two; and, if the fowl has
been properly stuffed, the tongue should then be found neatly bisected.
Slice each half, and return them to the carcass in suchwise as to
reconstruct the bird and give it an untouched appearance.
Coat lightly with Allemande sauce, combined with very red tongue, cut
into dice; and surround with a border of timbales made from a purée
of fresh peas (No. 2196), each set on an artichoke bottom. Serve a
sauceboat of the same sauce as that with which the pullet was coated.
1468—POULARDE A L’ÉCOSSAISE
Stuff the pullet with pearl barley cooked in white consommé, well
drained, and combined, per lb., with an equal quantity of fine
sausage-meat (to which has been added a chopped onion, cooked in
butter), and two tablespoonfuls of cream.
Poach the pullet in the usual way; dish it and coat it with Écossaise
sauce, _i.e._, an Allemande sauce, combined with a _brunoise_ of
vegetables: carrots, onions, leeks, and celery, and a large part of the
reduced pullet’s poaching-liquor.
Serve a garnish of French beans with cream, separately.
1469—POULARDE ÉDOUARD VII
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach
it without colouration. Dish it, and coat it with a curry sauce,
combined with two oz. of red capsicums in dice, per pint of sauce.
Serve a garnish of cucumbers with cream, separately.
N.B.—This dish was originated at the Carlton Hotel on the occasion of
His Majesty King Edward VII.’s Coronation.
1470—POULARDE EN ESTOUFFADE
Half-_poële_ the pullet in a saucepan.
Line the bottom and sides of an oval _cocotte_ with thin slices of
ham. Put the half-_poëled_ pullet into this _cocotte_, together with
one lb. of carrots, onions, and celery, all three sliced, fried in
butter and moderately seasoned with salt and pepper.
Swill the saucepan with one-third pint of strong veal stock; reduce to
half; put this reduced stock into the _cocotte_; cover the latter; seal
down the lid with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking of the
pullet in a somewhat hot oven for three-quarters of an hour.
1471—POULARDE A L’ESTRAGON
Poach the pullet, and add to the ordinary garnish a bunch consisting of
five or six sprigs of tarragon.
Dish, and decorate the pullet’s breast with a nice spray of _blanched_
tarragon leaves.
Reduce and strain the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and serve it separately.
1472—POULARDE A LA FAVORITE
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, prepared after recipe
No. 2256.
Poach it; dish it, and coat with a suprême sauce.
Surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of
truffle.
1473—POULARDE A LA FERMIÈRE
Prepare the pullet as for No. 1470; but, instead of lining the
_cocotte_ with slices of ham, cut the latter into dice and add these
to the garnish, together with four oz. of peas and four oz. of French
beans, cut into small lozenges.
1474—POULARDE A LA FINANCIÈRE
Braise the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with a garnish consisting of small heaps
of quenelles made from chicken, _mousseline_ forcemeat; grooved,
button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; slices of truffle, and
_blanched_ olives. Add a small quantity of half-glaze sauce prepared
with truffle essence.
Send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.
1475—POULARDE A LA GASTRONOME
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of noodles, slightly tossed in
butter, and _poële_ it.
Swill the saucepan with one-quarter pint of champagne. Dish the pullet
and surround it with medium-sized truffles, cooked in champagne,
alternated with small heaps of cooked and glazed chestnuts, and place a
cock’s kidney between each heap.
Serve, separately, a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence
and combined with the reduced swilling-liquor.
1476—POULARDE A LA GODARD
Braise the pullet brown.
Dish it and surround it with spoon-moulded quenelles of forcemeat,
combined with chopped mushrooms and truffles; large oval quenelles,
decorated with tongue and truffle; grooved button-mushroom heads;
cocks’ combs and kidneys; glazed small lambs’ sweetbreads; and
olive-shaped truffles.
Slightly coat this garnish with Godard sauce, combined with some
reduced braising-liquor, and send what remains of the latter in a
sauceboat.
1477—POULARDE A LA GRAMMONT
Poach the pullet, and let it half-cool.
Now remove the _suprêmes_ and the bones of the breast; fill up the
cavity in the carcass with a garnish consisting of larks’ fillets,
_sautéd_ just before dishing; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’
combs and kidneys; and cohere the whole by means of Béchamel sauce,
finished with truffle essence.
Slice the _suprêmes_, and return them to their place, setting a slice
of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff Allemande sauce;
sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter; glaze quickly, and
serve at once.
1478—POULARDE GRAND HÔTEL
Cut up the fowl as for a _sauté_ dish, and cook it in butter, under
cover. Then set the pieces in a very hot _cocotte_, and distribute
thereupon five oz. of raw truffles cut into thick slices and slightly
salted and peppered.
Swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add a
little chicken stock; pour this liquor into the _cocotte_; thoroughly
close the latter, and put it in a very hot oven for eight or ten
minutes with the view of cooking the truffles.
Serve the preparation as it stands in the _cocotte_.
N.B.—This dish was invented at the Grand Hotel at Monte Carlo, as a
means of offering to those who could not wait for the preparation of
truffled pullets a substitute of a somewhat similar nature to the
latter.
1479—POULARDE AU GROS SEL
Poach the pullet, and add to it ten small olive-shaped carrots and ten
small onions.
Dish, and surround the bird with the carrots and the onions, arranged
in small heaps.
Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing the pullet’s cooking-liquor,
and a cellar of kitchen salt.
1480—POULARDE A LA GRECQUE
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2253, and _poële_
it.
Dish it, and coat it with very strong reduced chicken stock, thickened
by means of arrowroot.
1481—POULARDE A LA HONGROISE
_Poële_ the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with Hongroise sauce, and surround it with timbales of
pilaff rice, combined with tomato pulp, cut into dice.
Send a Hongroise sauce separately.
1482—POULARDE AUX HUÎTRES
Boil the pullet gently in light, white stock, until it is well cooked.
With the cooking-liquor prepare a suprême sauce, and add thereto
the almost entirely reduced poaching-liquor of twenty-four oysters,
one-half pint of cream, and the twenty-four oysters (cleared of their
beards).
Dish the pullet, and pour this sauce over it.
1483—POULARDE A L’INDIENNE
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à
l’Indienne, prepared after recipe No. 2254, separately.
1484—POULARDE ISABELLE DE FRANCE
Stuff the pullet with rizotto, combined with two oz. of truffle slices
and eighteen crayfishes’ tails, and poach it in white stock containing
one bottle of Chablis wine.
With the pullet’s cooking-liquor prepare a highly-seasoned suprême
sauce. Dish the bird on a small cushion; coat it with sauce, and
surround it with fine black truffles, cooked in champagne, and set each
on a small, round, and slightly hollowed _croûton_ of fried bread.
Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.
1485—POULARDE A L’IVOIRE
Poach the pullet, keeping it very white. Dish it, and serve it plain.
Send, separately, an ivory sauce, a sauceboat of the pullet’s
cooking-liquor, and some kind of garnish, such as macaroni or noodles
with cream _cèpes_, cucumber, &c.
1486—POULARDE LADY CURZON
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach
it.
Dish it, and coat it with an Indienne sauce.
A garnish of _cèpes_ or cucumber with cream may be served at the same
time.
1487—POULARDE LOUISE D’ORLÉANS
Insert a whole foie gras into the pullet, the former having been
studded with truffles, poached for fifteen minutes in some succulent
veal stock, and one glassful of old Madeira, and afterwards cooled.
Stiffen and colour the pullet for twenty minutes in the oven,
sprinkling it with butter the while.
Cover it entirely with thick slices of truffles; cover these with
slices of bacon, and envelop the whole in a layer of plain dough, which
should be well sealed up. Set the pullet, prepared in this way, on a
baking-tray; make a slit in the top of the paste for the escape of
steam during the cooking process, and cook in a moderate oven for one
and three-quarter hours.
This pullet is served as it stands, cold or hot.
1488—POULARDE A LA LOUISIANE
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of maize with cream, combined with one
and one-half oz. of capsicums cut into dice, and _poële_ it. Dish it
and border it, on either side, with timbales of rice and fried bananas,
arranged alternately. At either end of the dish set a _croustade_ of
lining paste, garnished with maize “à la crème.”
1489—POULARDE A LA LUCULLUS
Braise the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with (1) fine truffles, cooked in champagne,
alternated with (2) large, round quenelles of _mousseline_ forcemeat.
At either end of the dish, which should be oval, set a small silver
shell of the same height as the cushion on which the pullet lies.
Garnish these shells with very white, curled cocks’ combs and cocks’
kidneys. Add the reduced braising-liquor to a half-glaze sauce,
flavoured with truffle essence; cover the bottom of the dish with some
of this sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.
1490—POULARDE A LA MANCINI
Poach the pullet.
Remove the _suprêmes_; suppress the bones of the breast without
touching either the pinions or the legs, and set the carcass, thus
prepared, on a very low cushion of bread or rice, so that it may be
steady.
Fill the carcass with macaroni, cohered with cheese and cream, and
combined with three oz. of foie gras in dice, and one-half oz. of a
_julienne_ of truffles.
Slice the _suprêmes_, and reconstruct them on the macaroni, placing a
fine slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff and
unctuous cream sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese, and glaze quickly at
the salamander.
Serve separately a creamy suprême sauce.
1491—POULARDE MARGUERITE DE SAVOIE
Fry quickly ten larks in butter, insert these into a fine pullet,
and braise the latter in veal stock and white Savoy wine, in equal
quantities. Prepare a milk polenta (No. 2294); spread it on a tray
in layers one inch thick, and let it cool. Now stamp it with a round
cutter one and one-half inches in diameter, and, a few minutes before
serving, dredge these roundels of polenta, and brown them in clarified
butter.
Just before dishing up, sprinkle them with grated Parmesan, and glaze
them quickly at the salamander.
Dish the pullet on a very low cushion of fried bread; surround it
with the glazed roundels of polenta; pour a little of the fowl’s
cooking-liquor, thickened, over the dish, and send what remains of it
in a sauceboat.
Serve at the same time a vegetable-dish of white Piedmont truffles,
slightly heated in a little butter and some consommé.
1492—POULARDE A LA MÉNAGÈRE
Poach the pullet in some rather gelatinous white stock. Slice six
carrots, six new potatoes, six new onions; put the whole into a
saucepan, and cook gently in the fowl’s poaching-liquor, with the lid
of the saucepan off. When the vegetables are cooked, and the liquor is
sufficiently reduced, set the pullet in a special oval _cocotte_, and
cover it with the prepared vegetables and their cooking-liquor.
1493—POULARDE MIREILLE
_Poële_ the pullet.
Dish it; surround it with small timbales of rice with saffron,
alternated with tartlet crusts, garnished with _concassed_ tomatoes
cooked in butter, and set a fine, stoned olive on each tartlet.
Serve a tomato sauce separately.
1494—POULARDE A LA MONTBAZON
Stud the pullet with truffles, and poach it.
Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with poached
lamb sweetbreads, spoon-moulded quenelles of _mousseline_, chicken
forcemeat, and grooved mushroom heads, arranged alternately.
Serve a suprême sauce separately.
1495—POULARDE A LA MONTE CARLO
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it on the one side
with quenelles of pink, _mousseline_, chicken forcemeat, and on the
other with a border of fair-sized, very black truffles.
1496—POULARDE A LA MONTMORENCY
Lard the pullet with truffles, and braise it in Madeira.
Set it on an oval dish, and, at either end of the latter, place a
fine, decorated quenelle; on either side of the fowl arrange some
artichoke-bottoms, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
Serve separately a half-glaze sauce with Madeira, to which the
braising-liquor of the pullet has been added.
1497—POULARDE A LA NANTUA
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter,
and surround it with small heaps of quenelles with crayfish butter,
crayfishes’ tails, and slices of truffle.
1498—POULARDE A L’ORIENTALE
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of pilaff rice with saffron, and poach it.
Remove its _suprêmes_; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors,
without touching the rice, and coat the latter with Béchamel sauce
coloured with tomato sauce and flavoured with saffron.
Dish; reconstruct the sliced _suprêmes_ on the rice, and set between
each slice another of chow-chow stewed in butter. Cover the pullet with
the same sauce as that indicated above, and surround it with quarters
of chow-chow cooked in butter, or serve this garnish separately.
1499—POULARDE AUX ŒUFS D’OR
_Poële_ the pullet without letting it acquire overmuch colour.
Strain the _poëling_-liquor; clear it of all grease; add thereto
a little tomato purée, and thicken it with arrowroot. Finish with
three oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne.
Dish the pullet; surround it with a border of egg-shaped croquettes of
egg with truffles, and send the sauce separately.
1500—POULARDE A LA PARISIENNE
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; cover it with Allemande sauce, and decorate it on top with
slices of truffles and salted tongue cut to the shape of cocks’ combs.
Surround with spoon-moulded quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of
which should have been combined with chopped truffles, and the other
half with chopped, salted ox-tongue.
Arrange the quenelles round the fowl, alternately, and border the dish
with a thread of pale glaze.
1501—POULARDE ADELINA PATTI
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256, and poach
it in white, chicken stock. Dish it on a low cushion; cover it with a
suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika, and surround it with fair-sized
artichoke-bottoms, each garnished with a fine truffle, coated with pale
meat glaze.
Serve separately a sauceboat of the same sauce as that already used in
coating the pullet.
1502—POULARDE A LA PAYSANNE
Brown the pullet in butter, and put it into an oval _cocotte_.
Around it set a garnish consisting of four oz. of the red part of
a carrot, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of celery, all three
minced somewhat finely. Complete the cooking of the pullet with the
vegetables, sprinkling it often the while with good veal stock.
Serve the preparation as it stands in the _cocotte_.
1503—POULARDE A LA PÉRIGORD
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of truffles in the shape of large
olives, cooked in two oz. of melted pork fat, and mixed, while hot,
with one lb. of fresh, grated pork fat, rubbed through a sieve. String
the piece, taking care to close all its openings, and _poële_ it gently.
Dish it; coat it with a very fine half-glaze sauce, made from the
_poëling_-liquor and finished with truffle essence.
1504—POULARDE PETITE MARIÉE
Poach the pullet in a little white stock, and surround it (when setting
it to cook) with six small new onions, six small carrots, six small new
potatoes, and one-quarter pint of freshly-shelled peas.
Set the pullet in a _cocotte_ with the garnish of vegetables, and
coat it with its reduced cooking-liquor, combined with some excellent
suprême sauce.
1505—POULARDE A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of rizotto combined with
one-half lb. of white sliced truffles, and _poële_ it in the usual way.
Dish it, and serve at the same time a thickened chicken gravy to which
has been added the reduced _poëling_-liquor.
1506—POULARDE A LA PORTUGAISE
Stuff the pullet with three-quarters lb. of rice, combined with
five oz. of peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes, cooked in butter.
_Poële_ the pullet. Dish it; coat it with a Portugaise sauce,
combined with the _poëling_-liquor, and surround it with a garnish of
medium-sized tomatoes, stuffed with rice “à la Portugaise.”
1507—POULARDE PRINCESSE
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom
essence and finished with two oz. of asparagus-head butter per pint
of sauce. Surround it with _croustades_ of Duchesse potatoes, rolled
in breadcrumbs and melted butter, fried, emptied, then garnished with
asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and each surmounted by a fine
slice of truffle. Between each _croustade_ set a faggot of very green
asparagus-heads.
1508—POULARDE PRINCESSE HÉLÈNE
Stuff the pullet with rice prepared after recipe (No. 2256), and poach
it. Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with spinach
_subrics_, cooked at the last moment; add to this garnish some shavings
of white truffles, barely heated in butter, and set in a shell placed
behind the fowl.
1509—POULARDE RÉGENCE
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of _mousseline_ forcemeat of chicken,
combined with three oz. of crayfish purée, and poach it.
Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence,
and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in small
heaps:—Spoon-moulded quenelles of _mousseline_, chicken forcemeat;
white, curled, cocks’ combs; slices of raw foie gras, stamped out with
a round cutter, and tossed in butter; small, grooved, cooked, and
very white mushrooms; olive-shaped truffles, and one round quenelle
decorated with truffles at either end of the dish.
1510—POULARDE DE LA REINE ANNE
_Poële_ the pullet.
When it is ready, remove the _suprêmes_ and the breast bones, and fill
the carcass with a garnish of macaroni and cream, combined with foie
gras and truffle dice. Cover the macaroni with Mornay sauce; glaze
quickly, and dish the pullet on a low cushion.
Surround it with small tartlet crusts garnished with cocks’ combs
and kidneys, cohered with Allemande sauce, and set a slice of the
_suprêmes_ on each tartlet. Put a silver shell containing a pyramid of
truffles behind the fowl.
Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.
1511—POULARDE REINE MARGOT
Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of _mousseline_ forcemeat of
chicken, combined with two oz. of almond purée, and poach it.
Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, finished with a little almond
milk, and surround it with quenelles prepared with pistachio butter and
quenelles prepared with crayfish butter, arranged alternately.
1512—POULARDE REINE MARGUERITE
Poach the pullet.
Remove the _suprêmes_ and the breast bone, without touching either the
wings or the legs, and set the carcass, thus trimmed, on a low cushion
of bread or rice. Finely slice the _suprêmes_; add as many slices of
truffle as there are collops of _suprêmes_, and combine the whole with
a _soufflé_ preparation with Parmesan, which should not be too light.
Reconstruct the pullet with this preparation; smooth the surface, and
surround the base of the pullet with a band of paper, so that it may
keep its form. Set some thin slices of Gruyère cheese upon it; dish it,
and cook it in a moderately hot oven.
1513—POULARDE AU RIZ
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with chicken
essence. Surround it with a garnish of rice, cooked in the pullet’s
poaching-liquor, and moulded in small, buttered, timbale moulds.
1514—POULARDE ROSSINI
_Poële_ the pullet.
Remove the _suprêmes_; slice them, and dish them in the form of a crown
upon a round dish, alternating them with collops of foie gras, tossed
in butter. Pour a very strong chicken stock finished with truffle
essence in their midst.
Serve, separately, a timbale of noodles with butter covered with raw
noodles tossed in butter.
1515—POULARDE SAINTE ALLIANCE
Heat in butter ten fine truffles seasoned with salt and pepper;
sprinkle them with a glassful of excellent Madeira, and leave them to
cool thus in a thoroughly sealed utensil. Now put these truffles into a
fine pullet, and _poële_ it just in time for it to be sent to the table.
When the pullet is ready, quickly cook as many ortolans, and toss in
butter as many collops of foie gras as there are diners, and send them
to the table at the same time as the pullet, together with the latter’s
_poëling_-liquor, strained and in a sauceboat.
The waiter in charge should be ready for it with three assistants at
hand, and he should have a very hot chafer on the sideboard. The moment
it arrives he quickly removes the _suprêmes_, cuts them into slices,
and sets each one of these upon a collop of foie gras, which assistant
No. 1 has placed ready on a plate, together with one of the truffles
inserted into the pullet at the start.
Assistant No. 2, to whom the plate is handed forthwith, adds an ortolan
and a little juice, and then assistant No. 3 straightway places the
plate before the diner.
The pullet is thus served very quickly, and in such wise as to render
it a dish of very exceptional gastronomical quality.
N.B.—The name “Sainte Alliance” which I give to this dish (a name
that Brillat-Savarin employs in his “Physiology of Taste” in order
to identify a certain famous toast) struck me as an admirable title
for a preparation in which four such veritable gems of cookery are
found united—the _suprêmes_ of a fine pullet, foie gras, truffles, and
ortolans.
This dish was originally served at the Carlton Hotel in 1905.
1516—POULARDE SANTA-LUCIA
Stuff the pullet with truffles, prepared as for No. 1515, and braise
it in Marsala. Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with small
tartlets of Gnochi “à la Romaine,” alternated with collops of foie
gras, tossed in butter.
1517—POULARDE SICILIENNE
Poach the pullet.
Raise the fillets, leaving the wing-bones on the carcass; suppress the
breast bones, and fill the resulting cavity with macaroni, cohered with
the strong liquor of braised beef “à la Napolitaine,” and combined with
dice of truffles and foie gras, cocks’ combs and kidneys.
Envelop the piece in pig’s caul, giving the former its natural shape;
sprinkle with raspings and melted butter, and set in the oven that the
pig’s caul may cook and colour.
Dish on a low cushion, and coat with chicken glaze with butter.
Surround with tartlet crusts, each garnished with a slice of the
_suprêmes_, covered with a slice of foie gras tossed in butter, and
surmounted by a slice of truffle.
Send a chicken glaze with butter separately.
1518—POULARDE SOUFFLÉE
Poach the pullet.
Raise the _suprêmes_, and cut them into thin slices; suppress
the breast-bones by means of scissors, and stuff the bird with
one lb. two oz. of _mousseline_ forcemeat of chicken, combined with
one-third lb. of foie-gras purée. Spread this preparation in layers,
and between each of the latter set alternate slices of _suprême_ and
truffle.
Reconstruct the bird exactly; smooth its surface; deck it with bits of
truffle, salted tongue, and boiled white of egg; place the dish on a
deep tray containing a little boiling water, the steam of which assists
the poaching of the preparation, and poach in a moderate oven.
When about to serve, coat the pullet with Allemande sauce flavoured
with truffle essence.
N.B.—The use of a _bain-marie_ consisting of a deep pan containing
boiling water, wherein the dish which holds the pullet is placed, is
highly recommended, but the ideal method of poaching this sort of
preparations is by means of a steamer.
1519—POULARDE STANLEY
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, three oz. of mushrooms, and
three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles. Poach it with one lb. two oz. of
sliced and _blanched_ onions, seasoned with a pinch of curry. When the
pullet is ready, rub the cooking-liquor and the onions through tammy.
Add one-third pint of Velouté and one-third pint of cream to this
cullis; reduce to a stiff consistence; rub once more through tammy, and
finish with one-sixth pint of cream.
1520—POULARDE SOUVAROFF
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of foie gras and five oz. of
truffles cut into large dice, and three-parts _poële_ it.
Now put it into a _cocotte_ with ten fair-sized truffles stewed in
Madeira for a few minutes in the same saucepan as that in which the
pullet was _poëled_. Moisten with one-sixth pint of veal stock; close
the _cocotte_; seal the cover with a thread of paste, and complete the
cooking in a moderate oven for thirty minutes.
Serve the fowl as it stands in the _cocotte_.
1521—POULARDE SYLVANA
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of mushrooms, tossed in brown butter, and
half-brown it in the oven.
Meanwhile put one pint of fresh peas into a saucepan, together with
ten small new onions, one small lettuce cut _julienne_-fashion, and a
faggot consisting of parsley stalks, chervil, and a sprig of mint. Add
salt, sugar, two oz. of butter, and mix the whole up together.
Moisten with two small tablespoonfuls of water; cover and half-cook,
taking care to toss from time to time during the operation. When the
pullet is half-cooked, put it into a _cocotte_ lined with a thin layer
of paste, overreaching the edges of the _cocotte_ by about two inches.
Surround it with a garnish of peas; cover it with a slice of bacon,
and close the _cocotte_ with its cover. Draw the overlapping paste
over the latter; seal it down with some white of egg, that it may be
hermetically closed, and set in the oven for about forty-five minutes.
Serve the preparation as it stands in the _cocotte_. A sauceboat of
good chicken gravy may be served separately.
1522—POULARDE TALLEYRAND
_Poële_ the pullet; raise the _suprêmes_, and cut these into large
dice. Mix them with an equal quantity of macaroni, cut short, and
thickened with cream sauce combined with Parmesan, and add enough foie
gras and truffles, cut into large dice, to equal half the weight of the
_suprêmes_.
Suppress the breast-bones; fill the fowl with the above preparation,
and cover the latter with a layer of _mousseline_ forcemeat,
reconstructing the bird naturally in so doing. Deck the surface with
a crown of truffle slices; cover with buttered paper, and set in the
oven (1) to poach the forcemeat, (2) to thoroughly heat the preparation
beneath.
Dish the pullet; pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle
essence and combined with slices of truffle, over the dish, and serve
what remains of the sauce separately.
1523—POULARDE TOSCA
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after No. 2256, and _poële_ it in
short moistening. Dish it on a low cushion of fried bread, and surround
it with a garnish of braised, tuberous fennel-roots.
Send the pullet’s _poëling_ liquor separately, after having reduced and
finished it with butter.
1524—POULARDE TOULOUSAINE
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom
essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in
heaps:—Quenelles of _mousseline_ chicken forcemeat; slices of poached,
veal sweetbreads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; cooked and very white
button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.
Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence, separately.
1525—POULARDE TRIANON
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with quenelles of chicken forcemeat, stuffed
with foie-gras purée. Arrange these quenelles in heaps, and set a nice,
whole truffle between each heap.
Pierce the pullet with a _hatelet_, garnished with one grooved
mushroom, one fair-sized glazed truffle, and a quenelle decorated with
salted tongue.
Serve a suprême sauce at the same time.
1526—POULARDE VALENCIENNE
_Poële_ the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with a garnish of rizotto, combined with ham
dice. Set a crown of grilled slices of ham upon the rizotto.
Serve a well-seasoned _tomatéd_ suprême sauce separately.
1527—POULARDE AU VERT-PRÉ
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with printanier
butter (No. 157), in the proportion of two oz. per pint of sauce;
and surround it with a garnish consisting of peas, French beans, and
asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
1528—POULARDE VICHY
Stuff the pullet with ordinary pilaff rice, and braise it white.
Dish it, coat it with a suprême sauce, combined with the reduced
braising-liquor, and surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with
carrots à la Vichy.
1529—POULARDE VICTORIA
Stuff the pullet with truffles and foie gras, and three-parts _poële_
it, exactly as directed under “Poularde Souvaroff.”
Put it into a _cocotte_ with one lb. of potatoes, cut into large dice
and tossed in butter, and complete its cooking and that of the potatoes
in the oven.
1530—POULARDE WASHINGTON
Stuff the pullet with ten oz. of green maize, three-parts cooked, and
combined with one chopped onion cooked in butter and three oz. of good
sausage-meat, fried in butter for one moment with the onion. Braise the
pullet, and glaze it at the last minute.
Serve separately and at the same time a timbale of maize with cream.
1531—CHAPON FIN AUX PERLES DU PÉRIGORD
Stuff the capon with fine truffles, and envelop it in very thin slices
of cushion of veal. Braise it with best liqueur-brandy.
Dish and serve separately (1) the braising liquor in a sauceboat; (2) a
timbale of cardoons with gravy.
1532—POULETS SAUTÉS
As I pointed out at the beginning of Part V. of this chapter, the
chickens best suited to the _sauté_ treatment are those termed “à la
Reine”; they should be of medium size, very fleshy, and tender.
In an extreme case, small pullets or large chickens might be used, but
neither of these are so eminently suited to the procedure in question
as chickens “à la Reine.”
The fowl which is to be _sautéd_ should be cut up thus: after having
emptied, singed, and thoroughly cleaned it; cut off its legs—quite a
simple matter, since all that is necessary is the disjunction of the
thigh-bones, after having cut the skin. Cut off the claws just below
the joint of the tibia, and pare the spurs. Now cut the tibia above the
joint, and remove the thigh-bone.
Cut the pinions at the first joint; remove the wings, after having cut
round a portion of the breast in such wise that each wing holds one
half of it; finally detach the centrepiece or breast-bone, which should
be left whole if the fowl be small and cut into two if it be otherwise.
The carcass thus remains. Cut it into two, and trim each piece on both
sides.
Before setting them to cook, moderately season the pieces of fowl with
salt and pepper. Whatever the demands of a particular recipe may be,
the preparatory principle of _sautéd_ chickens is always as follows:—
Take a sautépan just large enough to hold the pieces of fowl, and heat
therein two oz. of clarified butter; or, according to circumstances,
half butter and half good oil. When the selected fat is quite hot,
insert the pieces of fowl; let them colour quickly, and turn them over
from time to time, that they may do so evenly. Now cover the utensil,
and put it in a sufficiently hot oven to ensure the complete cooking of
the fowl. Some tender pieces, such as the wings and the breast, should
be withdrawn after a few minutes have elapsed, and kept warm; but the
legs, the meat of which is firmer and thicker, should cook seven or
eight minutes more at least.
When all the pieces are cooked, withdraw them; drain away their butter,
and swill the sautépan with the prescribed liquor, which is either
some kind of wine, mushroom cooking-liquor, or chicken stock, &c. This
swilling forms, as I have already pointed out, an essential part of
the procedure, inasmuch as its object is to dissolve those portions of
solidified gravy which adhere to the bottom of the sautépan.
Reduce the swilling-liquor to half, and add thereto the sauce given in
the recipe. Put the pieces of carcass, the claws, the pinions and the
legs into this sauce, and simmer for a few minutes. The other pieces,
_i.e._, the wings and breast, are then added, but when the sauce
is sufficiently reduced, it must stop boiling. When the pieces are
completely cooked, it is obviously unnecessary for the sauce to boil,
since the former would only be hardened thereby.
A few minutes before serving, put the pieces into a deep entrée dish
(fitted with a cover) in the following order:—The pieces of carcass,
the claws and the pinions on the bottom of the dish, upon these the
legs and the breast, and, last of all, the wings.
The sauce is then finished according to the directions of the recipe,
and is poured over the pieces of fowl.
Some chickens are prepared without colouration—that is to say,
the pieces are merely stiffened in butter without browning, and
their cooking is completed in the oven as above. In this case the
swilling-liquor is invariably white, as also the supplementary sauces,
and the latter are finished with cream.
1533—POULET SAUTÉ ARCHIDUC
Fry the pieces of fowl without colouration, _i.e._, merely stiffen
them. Add four oz. of onions, previously cooked in butter, and
complete the cooking of the onions and the fowl together.
Withdraw the pieces; dish them; cover the dish, and keep it hot.
Moisten the onions with a small glassful of liqueur brandy; reduce
the latter; add thereto one-sixth pint of cream and one-sixth pint of
velouté, and rub through tammy.
Reduce this sauce to a stiff consistence; finish it, away from the
fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of the quarter of
a lemon, and a tablespoonful of Madeira, and pour it over the fowl.
Set about ten slices of truffle on the latter, and serve.
1534—POULET SAUTÉ ARLÉSIENNE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil, and withdraw the pieces.
Swill with one-quarter pint of white wine; add a piece of crushed
garlic as large as a pea, one-sixth pint of _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce,
and reduce by a third. Dish the chicken, and surround with alternate
heaps of onion and egg-plant roundels, seasoned, dredged, and fried in
oil, and _concassed_ tomatoes cooked in butter.
1535—POULET SAUTÉ ARMAGNAC
Cook the pieces of chicken in butter without colouration; add thereto
three and one-half oz. of raw slices of truffle, and dish in a shallow
_cocotte_.
Swill with a small glassful of old liqueur brandy; add a few drops of
lemon juice and one-sixth pint of cream; heat; finish this sauce, away
from the fire, with two oz. of crayfish butter, and pour it over the
fowl.
Serve in the _cocotte_.
1536—POULET SAUTÉ D’ARTOIS
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, and dish the pieces.
Swill with three tablespoonfuls of Madeira, and add one-seventh pint of
light, pale meat glaze, four small quartered artichoke-bottoms, tossed
in butter, ten carrots shaped like olives, cooked in consommé and
glazed, and eight small onions cooked in butter.
Finish with one and one-half oz. of butter and a pinch of chopped
chives, and pour this sauce over the pieces of fowl.
1537—POULET SAUTÉ BEAULIEU
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, and add to it five oz. of new potatoes
(the size of hazel-nuts) and the same quantity of small quartered
artichoke-bottoms, cooked in butter beforehand with the potatoes.
Keep the whole in the oven, under cover, for ten minutes.
Set the pieces of fowl, the potatoes and the artichoke-bottoms in an
earthenware saucepan, and add twelve black olives.
Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine and a little
lemon juice; complete with a tablespoonful of veal stock, and pour into
the _cocotte_.
Simmer for five minutes, in the utensil, and serve the preparation as
it stands.
1538—POULET SAUTÉ BORDELAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, and dish it. Surround it with small
quartered artichoke-bottoms stewed in butter; sliced potatoes cooked in
butter, and roundels of fried onions, arranged in small heaps, with a
small tuft of fried parsley between each heap.
Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of chicken gravy, and
sprinkle the fowl with the latter.
1539—POULET SAUTÉ BOIVIN
Fry the chicken in butter and add twelve small onions; three quartered
artichokes, small and very tender; twenty-four small potatoes of the
size of hazel-nuts. Cover and cook the whole together, in the oven.
Dish the chicken with the onions and potatoes over it, and surround it
with the artichokes.
Swill the saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of consommé; add three
tablespoonfuls of pale glaze, a few drops of lemon juice, and one and
one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.
1540—POULET SAUTÉ BRETONNE
Stiffen the pieces without colouring them, and add thereto three oz. of
the white of a leek and the half of an onion, both sliced and stewed in
butter beforehand. Cover and set in the oven.
About five minutes before the fowl is quite cooked, add three oz. of
mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in butter.
Dish the pullet, add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce and as much
cream to the vegetables; reduce to half, and pour the sauce and the
vegetables over the chicken.
1541—POULET SAUTÉ AUX CÈPES
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil. When it is cooked, drain away the oil, dish
it; heat three chopped shallots in the sautépan; swill with one-quarter
pint of white wine; reduce, and complete with one and one-half oz. of
butter.
Pour this sauce over the chicken, and surround the latter with
eight oz. of _cèpes_, _sautéd_ à la Bordelaise.
Sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.
1542—POULET SAUTÉ CHAMPEAUX
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter; dish it, and surround it with small
onions and potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts), both cooked in butter
beforehand. Swill with a little white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal
gravy and one tablespoonful of meat glaze; reduce; finish with one and
one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce over the chicken.
1543—POULET SAUTÉ CHASSEUR
_Sauté_ the chicken in equal quantities of butter and oil, and dish it.
Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine, and reduce;
add one-quarter, pint of Chasseur Sauce Escoffier; heat; pour over the
chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of _concassed_ parsley.
1544—POULET SAUTÉ CYNTHIA
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and dish it.
Swill the saucepan with a glass of dry champagne; reduce to half;
add one tablespoonful of light poultry glaze; finish with two
and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and one
tablespoonful of dry curaçao; pour this sauce over the chicken.
Surround the latter with three oz. of grapes, cleared of all skin and
pips, and ten sections of an orange, peeled in suchwise that the pulp
of the fruit is raw.
1545—POULET SAUTÉ DEMIDOFF
Colour the chicken in butter; add the vegetable garnish given for
“Poularde à la Demidoff” (1464), and put the two to stew in the oven.
About ten minutes before the cooking is completed, add two oz. of
truffles, cut to the shape of crescents like the carrots and turnips,
and three tablespoonfuls of good veal stock.
Dish the pieces of chicken, and cover them with the garnish.
1546—POULET SAUTÉ A LA DORIA
Colour the pieces of chicken in oil and butter; add thereto
one-half lb. of cucumber cut to the shape of garlic cloves; and
complete the cooking by stewing in the oven.
Dish the chicken with the cucumber upon it. Swill the saucepan with
one tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice; and
sprinkle the chicken and its garnish with this swilling-liquor, to
which add one and one-half oz. of brown butter.
1547—POULET SAUTÉ A LA DURAND
Dredge the seasoned pieces of chicken, and toss them in oil.
Dish them in the form of a crown; garnish their midst with a fine heap
of roundels of fried onion; and, in the centre of the latter, set a
cone, made from a very thin slice of ham and filled with _concassed_
tomatoes cooked in butter.
1548—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ÉGYPTIENNE
Colour the pieces of chicken in oil. Toss in oil, together, three oz.
of onion, and two oz. of mushrooms, sliced; and six oz. of raw ham, cut
into dice.
Set the pieces of chicken in a _cocotte_, alternating them with the
garnish, which should have been well-drained; cover with two tomatoes,
cut into thick slices; cover the _cocotte_, and complete the cooking in
the oven for twenty minutes.
When about to serve, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of veal stock.
1549—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ESPAGNOLE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil. Drain the latter away, and add one-half lb.
of pilaff rice, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums in
dice; three oz. of large green peas, cooked _à l’anglaise_, and two
sliced and poached sausages.
Cover the sautépan, and set the whole to stew in the oven for ten
minutes.
Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and surround it with six
small grilled tomatoes.
1550—POULET SAUTÉ A L’ESTRAGON
Toss the chicken in butter, and dish it.
Swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce to half;
add one-sixth pint of gravy in which tarragon has been infused, and
thicken with arrowroot.
Pour this sauce over the chicken, and decorate its wings with sprays of
parboiled tarragon leaves.
1551—POULET SAUTÉ FEDORA
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, without colouration, with four oz. of
raw, sliced truffles; and dish.
Swill with one-sixth pint of cream; add three tablespoonfuls of
Béchamel sauce, and reduce to half. Finish, away from the fire, with
one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, a few drops of lemon juice,
and a little cayenne; add four oz. of parboiled asparagus-heads to this
sauce, and pour it over the chicken. Or, after having cohered them with
butter, the asparagus-heads may be arranged in heaps round the fowl.
1552—POULET SAUTÉ AU FENOUIL
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, without colouration; swill with cream;
add three quartered tuberose fennels, trimmed to the shape of garlic
cloves and parboiled, and complete the cooking of the fennels and the
chicken, together.
Set the pieces of fennel in the form of a crown on a special
earthenware dish, and put the chicken in their midst, placing the
pieces side by side. Coat with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken
essence, and set to glaze.
1553—POULET SAUTÉ A LA FERMIÈRE
Slice three oz. of the red part of a carrot, the same quantity of
turnip, two oz. of celery, and half an onion. Season with a little salt
and sugar, and half-stew in butter.
Brown the pieces of chicken in butter; put them in the _cocotte_ with
the garnish of vegetables; add thereto two and one-half oz. of ham
cut into dice, and complete the cooking of both the chicken and the
vegetables, in the oven.
When about to serve, sprinkle with four or five tablespoonfuls of veal
stock.
1554—POULET SAUTÉ AUX FINES HERBES
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, and two minutes before dishing it,
sprinkle it with one-half oz. of chopped shallots. Swill the sautépan
with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls
of strong, veal gravy and as much half-glaze sauce; and finish the
sauce, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter and a
coffeespoonful of chopped parsley, chervil, and tarragon. Pour it over
the chicken.
1555—POULET SAUTÉ FORESTIÈRE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter; sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of
chopped shallots; add five oz. of quartered morels; stew in the oven
for ten minutes, and dish the chicken.
Swill with white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal stock; reduce, and
pour over the chicken with the morels. Surround with four small heaps
of potatoes, cut into large dice and tossed in butter; put a rectangle
of frizzled bacon between each heap, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped
parsley over the chicken.
1556—POULET SAUTÉ GABRIELLE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, without colouration, and dish it.
Swill with one-eighth pint of mushroom cooking-liquor; add three
tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce, and three tablespoonfuls of cream;
reduce, and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with one and
one-half oz. of butter.
Pour this sauce over the chicken; sprinkle on it some very black
truffle, cut _julienne-fashion_, and surround it with little leaves of
puff-paste, baked white.
1557—POULET SAUTÉ GEORGINA
_Sauté_ the pullet in butter with twelve small new onions and a small
faggot, containing a sprig of fennel. Dish the chicken.
Swill with three tablespoonfuls of mushroom cooking-liquor and as much
Rhine wine; add one-fifth pint of cream; twelve mushroom-heads, sliced;
and reduce the cream to half.
Complete with a pinch of chopped chervil and tarragon, and pour over
the chicken.
1558—POULET SAUTÉ HONGROISE
Prepare a sufficient quantity of pilaff rice, combined with _concassed_
tomatoes, to make a border.
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter, without colouration, with a chopped
half-onion and a little paprika. When the onion is slightly coloured,
add three peeled and quartered tomatoes, and complete the cooking of
the whole. Mould the rice to form a border, and set the chicken in the
middle.
Add one-sixth pint of cream to the tomatoes; reduce to half; rub
through tammy; heat this sauce, and pour it over the chicken.
1559—POULET SAUTÉ A L’INDIENNE OU CURRIE DE POULET
Cut the chicken into small pieces, and fry them in oil with a sliced
onion and a large pinch of curry. Swill with one-sixth pint of cocoanut
milk or, failing this, almond milk; add one-third pint of velouté, and
complete the cooking of the chicken while reducing the sauce to half.
Set in a deep dish, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.
1560—POULET SAUTÉ JAPONAISE
Fry the chicken in butter; add one lb. of cleaned and parboiled stachys
and complete the cooking of the whole, chicken and stachys, in the oven.
Dish the chicken with the stachys upon it. Swill with one-sixth pint of
slightly thickened veal stock; complete, away from the fire, with one
and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this over the chicken.
1561—POULET SAUTÉ JURASSIENNE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and, when it is ready, add to it
one-half lb. of _blanched_ breast of fresh pork, cut into strips and
well fried in butter. Drain away three-quarters of the chicken’s
grease; swill with one-sixth pint of light half-glaze sauce, and dish
the chicken.
Complete the sauce with a pinch of chopped chives, and pour it over the
chicken with the strips of bacon.
1562—POULET SAUTÉ LATHUILE
Heat three oz. of butter in a sautépan, just large enough to hold
the chicken and its garnish. Set the pieces of chicken in this
butter, together with one-half lb. of potatoes and five oz. of raw
artichoke-bottoms, both cut into fair-sized dice.
When the chicken and the vegetables are coloured underneath, turn the
whole over at one stroke and complete the cooking on the other side;
sprinkle the chicken with three tablespoonfuls of meat glaze and a
pinch of chopped parsley containing a mite of crushed garlic, and set
the chicken and the garnish on a dish, after the manner of “Pommes
Anna.”
Pour two and one-half oz. of nut-brown butter over the whole, and
surround with roundels of seasoned onions, dredged and fried in oil,
and very green, fried parsley, arranged in alternate heaps.
1563—POULET SAUTÉ LYONNAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and, when it is half-cooked, add three
fair-sized onions, finely sliced, tossed in butter and slightly
coloured.
Complete the cooking of the chicken and the onions together, and dish
the former. Swill with one-sixth pint of veal gravy; reduce; pour this
liquor and the onions over the chicken, and sprinkle the whole with a
pinch of chopped parsley.
1564—POULET SAUTÉ MARENGO
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil. Swill the sautépan with white wine; add two
peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes, or one and one-half tablespoonfuls of
tomato purée, a mite of crushed garlic, ten small mushrooms, and ten
slices of truffle.
Dish the chicken; cover it with sauce and garnish; surround it with
heart-shaped _croûtons_, fried in butter; small, fried eggs, and
trussed crayfish cooked in _court-bouillon_, and sprinkle the whole
with a pinch of _concassed_ parsley.
1565—POULET SAUTÉ MARYLAND
Season the pieces of chicken; dip them in butter; roll them in
bread-crumbs, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish, placing a slice
of grilled bacon between each piece of chicken; surround with small,
fried _galettes_ of maize flour, and fried slices of banana.
Serve a horse-radish sauce with cream, separately.
1566—POULET SAUTÉ MARSEILLAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil, and, when it is half-cooked, add thereto
two crushed cloves of garlic; three oz. of _ciseled_, green capsicums,
and the same weight of quartered tomatoes—all three tossed in oil.
When the chicken is cooked, drain away the oil; swill the pan with
one-sixth pint of white wine and a few drops of lemon juice, and reduce
almost entirely.
Dish the chicken; cover it with the garnish, and sprinkle with a pinch
of _concassed_ parsley.
1567—POULET SAUTÉ MEXICAINE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil; swill the sautépan with a few
tablespoonfuls of white wine; reduce, and add one-sixth pint of tomatéd
veal gravy.
Dish the chicken; pour the sauce over it, and surround it with grilled
capsicums and mushrooms, garnished with _concassed_ tomatoes cooked in
butter.
1568—POULET SAUTÉ MIREILLE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil and add to it, when half-cooked, one chopped
onion, four _concassed_ tomatoes, and one pimento cut into dice. Ten
minutes before serving, flavour with a small piece of crushed garlic.
Dish the chicken; pour the juice of the tomatoes into the sautépan;
reduce to half, and strain over the chicken.
Serve a timbale of rice, flavoured with saffron, separately.
1569—POULET SAUTÉ AUX MORILLES
Colour the chicken in butter and three-parts cook it; add to it
two-thirds lb. of morels, stewed in butter, and complete the cooking of
the chicken, under cover, in the oven.
Dish the chicken with the morels upon it; swill the sautépan with a
tablespoonful of brandy; add thereto the juice of the morels, two
tablespoonfuls of meat glaze, and one and one-half oz. of butter, and
pour this sauce over the chicken.
1570—POULET SAUTÉ NORMANDE
Half-_sauté_ the chicken in butter, and set the pieces in a _cocotte_
with one lb. of peeled and sliced russet apples. Swill with a small
glassful of liqueur cider; put this liquor in the _cocotte_; cover,
and set in the oven, that the chicken may be completely cooked and the
apples as well.
Serve the preparation, as it stands, in the _cocotte_.
1571—POULET SAUTÉ PARMENTIER
Brown the chicken in butter, and add one lb. of potatoes, raised by
means of an oval spoon-cutter, or cut into large dice, and already
slightly frizzled in butter.
Complete the cooking in the oven, and dish the chicken with the
potatoes arranged in heaps all round. Swill with a few tablespoonfuls
of white wine; add to it a tablespoonful of veal gravy; pour this over
the chicken, and sprinkle the latter with a pinch of chopped parsley.
1572—POULET SAUTÉ PIÉMONTAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and dish it.
Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add thereto a
tablespoonful of melted pale meat glaze, and pour this over the
chicken. Sprinkle it at the last moment with two oz. of nut-brown
butter, and finally with chopped parsley, and serve a timbale of
rizotto with white truffles separately.
1573—POULET SAUTÉ PORTUGAISE
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter and oil, and dish it. Drain away a
portion of the butter used in the cooking, add to the remainder a mite
of crushed garlic and a chopped half-onion; and, when the latter is
fried, add four oz. of peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes, two oz. of
sliced mushrooms, a few drops of white wine, and a pinch of _concassed_
parsley.
Complete the cooking of the whole, taking care to reduce all moisture.
Cover the chicken with its garnish, and surround it with half-tomatoes
or tomatoes stuffed with rice.
1574—POULET SAUTÉ PROVENÇALE
_Sauté_ the chicken in oil and dish it. Swill with white wine and add
thereto a mite of crushed garlic, three oz. of _concassed_ tomatoes,
four anchovy fillets cut into dice, twelve black olives stoned and
parboiled, and a pinch of chopped sweet basil.
Leave the whole to simmer for five minutes, and cover the chicken with
it.
1575—POULET SAUTÉ STANLEY
Colour the chicken in butter, and complete its cooking under cover
with one-half lb. of minced onions. Dish it in a flat, earthenware
_cocotte_, setting a heap of mushrooms on either side of it; add
one-third pint of cream to the onions; simmer for ten minutes; rub
through tammy, and reduce.
Finish this sauce with one oz. of butter, a little curry, and pour it
over the chicken.
Set ten slices of truffle on the latter.
1576—POULET SAUTÉ AUX TRUFFES
Half-_sauté_ the chicken in butter; add six oz. of raw truffles, cut
into slices, and complete the cooking under cover. Dish; swill with
a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of
half-glaze sauce; finish with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour
this sauce over the chicken.
1577—POULET SAUTÉ VAN DYCK
Cook the chicken in butter without letting it brown; swill with
one-sixth pint of cream; add one-sixth pint of suprême sauce, and
reduce by a third.
Mix one-half lb. of young parboiled hop-sprouts to the sauce; simmer
for two minutes, and pour over the chicken, which should be dished in a
_cocotte_.
1578—POULET SAUTÉ VICHY
Colour the chicken in butter; add one-half lb. of half-cooked carrots à
la Vichy (No. 2061) to it, and complete the cooking of the chicken and
the carrots under cover in the oven.
Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of veal stock; dish the pullet, and
cover it with the garnish of carrots.
1579—POULET SAUTÉ VERDI
Prepare a border of rizotto à la Piémontaise.
_Sauté_ the chicken in butter; set it in the centre of the border, and
on the latter arrange a crown of slices of foie gras, tossed in butter,
alternated with slices of truffle, resting against the chicken.
Swill with Asti wine; reduce; add three tablespoonfuls of veal stock
and one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the pieces
of chicken.
1580—FILETS 1581—SUPRÊMES 1582—CÔTELETTES 1583—AILERONS OF CHICKEN
The terms “Fillet” and “_Suprême_” are synonymous, and either one
or the other may be used for variety to express the same thing on a
menu. They are names given to the breast of the fowl, divided into two
along the sternum, and cleared of all skin. Each fillet or _suprême_
comprises the large and the minion fillets.
When _suprêmes_ are taken from a small chicken, the minion fillets are
not removed; if the chicken be an ordinary one or a pullet, the minion
fillets are removed, cleared of all tendons, and twisted into rings or
crescents, after having been _contised_ with slices of truffle that are
half-inserted into the little incisions, made at regular intervals in
the meat with the point of a knife.
Prepared in this way, these fillets are generally included in the
garnish of the _suprêmes_. Chicken _ailerons_ and cutlets (the latter
must not be mistaken for those prepared from cooked meat and which are
only a kind of croquette) are _suprêmes_ to which the humerus-bone of
the wing is left adhering.
Cutlets are always cut from such fowls as chickens à la Reine, or very
fleshy, spring chickens. The same rule applies to suprêmes: though,
sometimes, the latter are cut from pullets. But, in that case, as
they would be too large, they are cut into three or four very regular
pieces, which are slightly flattened, and trimmed to the shape of
hearts or ovals; except when they have to be stuffed.
In the latter case, they are opened in the thickness, by means of the
point of a small knife, to form sacks; and, in the resulting interstice
the selected stuffing is inserted, with the help of a piping-bag fitted
with a little, even pipe, and in a sufficient quantity to fill out the
_suprêmes_ well.
_Suprêmes_ and cutlets are always cooked without liquor, or almost
so; for should any moistening liquid even approach the boil, it would
immediately harden them. If they be desired poached, it would be best
to cook the whole fowl, and cut them from the latter when it is cooked.
This is how they are prepared, according as to whether they be required
colourless or _sautéd_; though the brown method of preparing them is
applied more particularly to cutlets.
_Cutlets or suprêmes sautéd_: Season them with salt; roll them in
flour; set them in a vegetable pan containing some very hot clarified
butter, and quickly _gild_ them on both sides. These pieces of fowl are
so tender that they are cooked and _gilded_ at the same moment of time.
_Cutlets or suprêmes prepared without colouration_: Season them, and
set them in a vegetable-pan, containing some fresh, melted, unclarified
butter. Roll the _suprêmes_ in this butter; add a few drops of lemon
juice; thoroughly seal the vegetable-pan, and put it in a very hot oven.
A few minutes suffice for the poaching of the suprêmes, which are known
to be ready when they seem resilient to the touch, and are perfectly
white.
_Important Remarks_: Chicken _Suprêmes_ or cutlets should never be
allowed to wait, lest they harden. They should be cooked quickly, at
the last moment; dished and served immediately. The shortest wait is
enough to spoil them, and to make an insipid and dry preparation of
what should be an exquisite dish.
N.B.—The recipes given hereafter for _suprêmes_ may of course be
applied to fillets, cutlets, _ailerons_, blanc de poulet, &c.
1584—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AGNÈS SOREL
Line some oval buttered tartlet-moulds with _mousseline_ forcemeat.
Upon the latter, put some raw, sliced mushrooms, tossed in butter;
cover with forcemeat so as to fill the mould, and poach in the
_bain-marie_.
Turn out in a circle on a round dish; put a poached _suprême_ on each
tartlet; coat with Allemande sauce; deck with a truffle girt by a ring
of very red tongue, and surround the _suprême_ with a thread of pale,
meat glaze.
1585—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA
Poach the _suprêmes_ dry. Dish them with a few slices of truffle set
upon them; coat them with Mornay sauce, flavoured with chicken essence,
and glaze quickly. Surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads,
cohered with butter.
1586—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AMBASSADRICE
Poach the _suprêmes_ dry. Dish them; coat them with _suprême_ sauce,
and surround them with lamb sweetbreads, studded with truffles and
cooked without colouration, alternated with faggots of asparagus-heads.
1587—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ARLÉSIENNE
Season and dredge the _suprêmes_, and toss them in clarified butter.
Meanwhile, fry in oil some egg-plant roundels and some seasoned and
dredged roundels of onion. Also prepare a garnish of tomatoes tossed in
oil. Dish the egg-plant roundels in a circle on a round dish; set the
_suprêmes_ thereon, and garnish the latter with the tossed tomatoes and
the fried onions, set in small heaps upon them.
Serve a delicate, tomatéd half-glaze sauce separately.
1588—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE BOISTELLE
Cut the _suprêmes_ into heart shapes, and stuff them with _mousseline_
forcemeat combined with half its bulk of mashed raw mushrooms.
Put the _suprêmes_ in a buttered vegetable-pan, with two-thirds lb. of
peeled, minced, raw mushrooms; season with salt, white pepper and lemon
juice, and set to poach slowly in a moderate oven.
Dish in the form of a crown, in a timbale, with the mushrooms in the
centre.
Add to the liquor, which should only consist of the moisture of the
mushrooms, two and one-half oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon
juice; pour this sauce over the _suprêmes_, and complete with a pinch
of chopped parsley.
1589—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS, A BLANC
Poach the _suprêmes_ in a little mushroom cooking-liquor.
Dish them in the form of a crown, with some fine very white cooked
mushroom-heads. Coat them moderately with Allemande sauce, combined
with the cooking-liquor of the _suprêmes_.
Serve what remains of the sauce separately.
1590—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS, A BRUN
Cook the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter, as already described.
Dish them; surround them with mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in
butter, and coat them with a light mushroom sauce.
1591—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE CHIMAY
Cook the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter.
Dish them; garnish them with tossed morels and asparagus-heads, cohered
with butter, and surround with a thread of good thickened gravy.
1592—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE CUSSY
Collop the _suprêmes_; slightly flatten each collop; trim them round,
dredge them, and toss them in butter.
Set each collop of _suprême_ upon an artichoke-bottom about equal in
size to the former; put a thick slice of glazed truffle on each collop,
and a very white cock’s kidney upon each slice of truffle.
Serve a thickened gravy separately.
1593—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE DORIA
Season and dredge the _suprêmes_, and toss them quickly in clarified
butter. Dish them and surround them with pieces of cucumber, shaped
like garlic cloves and cooked in butter.
When about to serve, sprinkle them with a little nut-brown butter, and
a few drops of lemon juice.
1594—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE DREUX
Make some incisions, at short intervals, in the _suprêmes_, and
half-insert into these, alternate roundels of truffle and salted
tongue. Poach them dry. Dish; surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs
and kidneys, and slices of truffle, and pour a moderate quantity of
Allemande sauce over this garnish.
1595—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ÉCARLATE
Incise the _suprêmes_ as above; but garnish them only with roundels
of tongue. Poach them dry, and set them on oval, flat quenelles of
_mousseline_ forcemeat, sprinkled with very red chopped tongue.
Coat with clear suprême sauce, that the red of the tongue may be seen.
1596—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ÉCOSSAISE
Poach the _suprêmes_.
Dish them; coat them with Écossaise sauce, and surround them with small
heaps of French beans, cohered with butter.
1597—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE FAVORITE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter.
Dish them in a crown, on tossed slices of foie gras, with three slices
of truffle on each _suprême_.
In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and
serve, separately, a sauceboat of light meat-glaze, buttered.
1598—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE FINANCIÈRE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, upon fried _croûtons_ of the same
size; in their midst arrange a garnish à la financière (No. 1474), and
coat the _suprêmes_ and their garnish with financière sauce.
1599—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AUX FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in clarified butter.
Dish them with a garnish of raw artichoke-bottoms, sliced, tossed
in butter, and sprinkled with fine herbs. Sprinkle a few drops of
nut-brown butter over the _suprêmes_, and serve a thickened gravy
separately.
1600—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE GEORGETTE
Prepare as many “pommes Georgette” as there are _suprêmes_, and take
care to choose potatoes of the same size as the _suprêmes_.
Poach the _suprêmes_. Set one on each potato, with a fine slice of
truffle in the middle, and arrange in the form of a crown on a round
dish.
1601—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE HENRI IV.
Collop the _suprêmes_; slightly flatten the collops, and trim them
round. Season and dredge them; _sauté_ them in clarified butter,
and set each collop on an artichoke bottom, slightly garnished with
buttered meat-glaze.
Serve a Béarnaise sauce separately.
1602—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE HONGROISE
Prepare some pilaff rice, combined with _concassed_ tomatoes, and dish
it in a shallow timbale.
Season the _suprêmes_ with paprika; toss them in clarified butter, and
set them in a timbale, upon the pilaff rice.
Swill the vegetable-pan with a few tablespoonfuls of cream; add the
necessary quantity of Hongroise sauce, and coat the _suprêmes_ with
this sauce.
1603—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A L’INDIENNE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter, and put them for a few minutes in a
curry sauce à l’Indienne, but without letting the latter boil.
Dish the _suprêmes_ in a timbale with the curry sauce.
Serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, separately.
1604—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE JARDINIÈRE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter. Dish and surround with small heaps
of vegetables, arranged very neatly, as explained in the case of the
_Jardinière_ garnish.
Sprinkle the _suprêmes_ with a few drops of nut-brown butter, just
before serving.
1605—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE JUDIC
Cut the _suprêmes_ into heart shapes; season them, and poach them dry.
Dish them in a crown, upon little braised lettuces; and set a slice of
truffle and a cock’s kidney upon each heart of _suprême_. Coat slightly
with thickened gravy.
1606—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MARÉCHALE
It is the rule that all preparations termed “à la Maréchale” should be
treated with chopped truffle; that is to say that the latter takes the
place of the customary bread-crumbs.
For the sake of economy the _à l’anglaise treatment_ (_i.e._, egg and
bread-crumbs) is more commonly applied; so the reader may choose which
of the two he prefers. In any case, _sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter;
dish them in the form of a crown, with a fine slice of truffle on each,
and set in their midst a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with
butter.
N.B.—Formerly, these _suprêmes_, like all preparations “à la
Maréchale,” were gently grilled upon buttered paper.
1607—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MARYLAND
Proceed exactly as directed under “Poulet sauté à la Maryland”
(No. 1565).
1608—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE MONTPENSIER
Roll the _suprêmes_ in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and _sauté_ them
in clarified butter. Dish them in a crown with a slice of truffle upon
each, and surround with small heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with
butter.
Sprinkle the _suprêmes_ with a few drops of nut-brown butter.
1609—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ORLY
Take some _suprêmes_ of chicken à la Reine, and set them on a dish with
parsley stalks and finely sliced onions; sprinkle with a little oil and
lemon juice, and set to _marinade_ for an hour.
When about to prepare them, dry them by means of a piece of linen; dip
them into light batter, and put them in a very hot frying fat that they
may cook quickly.
Drain; dish on a napkin with bunches or a border of very green fried
parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.
1610—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A L’ORIENTALE
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter, and dish them each upon a thick slice
of chow-chow, cut to the same shape, parboiled, and stewed in butter
beforehand. Coat with Suprême sauce, combined with a quarter of its
bulk of tomato purée, and flavoured moderately with saffron.
1611—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE EN PAPILLOTE
Cut out as many heart-shaped pieces of kitchen paper as there are
_suprêmes_, and either butter or oil them.
Quickly stiffen the _suprêmes_ in butter. In the centre of each paper
heart, set a slice of ham cut to the shape of a triangle; cover the ham
with a tablespoonful of reduced Italienne sauce; set the _suprêmes_ on
the sauce, and cover it with the same sauce and another triangle of
ham. Close the pieces of paper, and pleat their edges in such wise as
to entirely enclose their contents; set the papillotes, thus prepared,
on a tray; and put them in a sufficiently hot oven to allow of
completing the cooking of the _suprêmes_ and blowing out the papillotes.
1612—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE AU PARMESAN
Season the _suprêmes_; dip them in beaten egg and roll them in grated
Parmesan. _Sauté_ them in butter, and dish them on _croûtons_ of
polenta (No. 2294), shaped somewhat like the _suprêmes_ and browned in
clarified butter. When about to serve, sprinkle the _suprêmes_ with
nut-brown butter.
1613—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POLIGNAC
Poach the _suprêmes_ dry, and dish them.
Coat them with Suprême sauce, combined with a _julienne_ of truffles
and mushrooms.
1614—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POJARSKI
Mince the _suprêmes_, and, in so doing, combine with them, first,
the quarter of their weight of bread-crumbs dipped in milk and well
squeezed, and the same weight of fresh butter; and then an equal
quantity of fresh cream, which should be added little by little. Season
with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Divide up this preparation into portions equal in size to the
_suprêmes_, and shape them exactly like the latter; in short,
reconstruct the _suprêmes_ exactly with this mince-meat.
Dredge; cook in clarified butter, and serve as soon as ready.
There is no hard and fast rule for the garnishing of these _suprêmes_;
the garnish is therefore optional.
1615—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE RÉGENCE
Cut the _suprêmes_ into heart shapes; flatten them slightly, and
poach them. Set each _suprême_ on a quenelle of chicken forcemeat,
prepared with crayfish butter, and dish in the form of a crown. Coat
with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and, on each
_suprême_, set an olive-shaped truffle and a cock’s kidney—the two
separated by a cock’s comb.
1616—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE RICHELIEU
Treat the _suprêmes à l’anglaise_, and cook them in clarified butter.
Dish them; coat them with half-melted butter à la Maître d’hôtel, and
set four fine slices of truffle on each _suprême_.
1617—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE ROSSINI
_Sauté_ the _suprêmes_ in butter, and dish them on collops of foie
gras, arranged in the form of a crown and also tossed in butter. Coat
with a strong Madeira sauce, combined with slices of truffle.
1618—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE TALLEYRAND
Prepare:—(1) a _croustade_ of lining paste, of a size in proportion
to the garnish to be put inside it, just as the garnish should be in
proportion to the number of _suprêmes_:—(2) a garnish of macaroni with
cream, combined with three oz. of foie gras and three oz. of truffles
in dice, per one-half lb. of macaroni.
Cut the _suprêmes_ to the shape of hearts; stuff them with godiveau
with cream (No. 198), mixed with half its bulk of a purée of foie gras,
and poach them dry.
Put the macaroni in the _croustade_, shaping it like a dome in so
doing; coat the _suprêmes_ with Allemande sauce, and set them in a
crown on the timbale and round the dome of macaroni.
Send a sauceboat of velouté to the table separately.
1619—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VALENÇAY
Stuff the _suprêmes_ with truffles, cut into small dice and cohered
with very reduced Allemande sauce. Treat them _à l’anglaise_ and cook
them in butter.
Prepare some fried _croûtons_, shaped like cocks’ combs, in the
proportion of two for each _suprême_; cover these with a dome of fine
truffled forcemeat, and put them in a moderate oven that the forcemeat
may poach.
Dish the _suprêmes_ in the form of a crown; surround them with the
_croûtons_; and, in their midst, pour a purée of mushrooms.
1620—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE A LA VALOIS
Treat the _suprêmes à l’anglaise_, and cook them in clarified butter.
Dish them with a garnish of small, stoned olives, stuffed and poached
at the last moment.
Serve a Valois sauce separately.
1621—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VERNEUIL
_Marinade_ the _suprêmes_ as for No. 1609; treat them _à l’anglaise_,
and cook them in clarified butter. Dish them in the form of a crown,
and coat them with Colbert sauce.
Serve separately a purée of artichokes, combined with finely-minced
truffles.
1622—SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE VILLEROY
Poach the _suprêmes_ without completely cooking them.
Dip them in a Villeroy sauce, in such wise that they may be well coated
with it. Leave them to cool; treat them _à l’anglaise_; and, a few
minutes before serving, put them in some very hot frying fat. Dish them
in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.