always accompanied by mint sauce, the recipe for which I gave under
No. 136.
In view of the similarity of their preparations, and in order to avoid
finicking repetitions, I have refrained from giving separate recipes
for lamb and mutton respectively. The reader will therefore bear in
mind that the formulæ relating to mutton also apply to grass lamb.
1298—SADDLE OF MUTTON
1299—BARON OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS OF MUTTON
1300—DOUBLE OR PAIR OF LEGS OF MUTTON
1301—FILLETS OF MUTTON
1302—NECK OF MUTTON (Relevés)
_Saddle of mutton_ is that part of the sheep which reaches from the
bone of the haunch to the floating ribs.
_Baron of mutton_ comprises the saddle and the two legs, _i.e._, a pair
of hind-quarters.
_Double_ consists of the two unseparated legs, minus the saddle.
The Baron and the Double are almost always cuts of lamb.
The fillet is one half of the saddle, when the latter is cut into two,
lengthwise; that is to say, divided down the middle in suchwise as to
bisect the spinal column. These fillets are sometimes boned, rolled
over with the kernel of meat in the centre, and strung, in which case
the skin should be removed before rolling. Saddle of mutton, before
being roasted, should be cleared of all its superfluous underlying
fat; and the flanks should be so shortened as to just meet when drawn
over the fillets. The overlying skin should be removed, and the saddle
should be strung in five or six places to keep it in shape.
In the case of a saddle of lamb, the skin need not be completely
removed, but slit in various places. As to neck of mutton, this should
be shortened as for the cutting of ordinary cutlets; the skin and the
bones of the chine should be removed, as also the meat at the end of
the rib-bones, down to two-thirds in. from the extremity of each. The
cushion is then covered with slices of bacon, tied on with string.
When the piece is roasted and dished, a frill should be placed on the
end of each bared bone. Neck of mutton ought never to comprise more
than nine to ten ribs, counting from the floating ones; it should
consist of rather less if anything.
Mutton Relevés allow more particularly of vegetable and rice garnishes.
Garnishes with sauces do not suit them so well, even when the pieces
are braised. As for paste garnishes, such as macaroni, noodles,
gniokis; they are seldom used.
Garnishes for mutton relevés should therefore be chosen, in preference,
from among the following, the details of which I gave under “Filet de
Bœuf” (Nos. 1044 to 1074) and which I recall hereafter:—
_Andalouse_, _Bouquetière_, _Châtelaine_, _Clamart_, _Dauphine_,
_Dubarry_, _Duchesse_, _Japonaise_, _Jardinière_, _Lorette_,
_Macédoine_, _Montmorency_, _Moderne_, _Nivernaise_, _Orientale_,
_Petit-Duc_, _Provençale_, _Renaissance_, _Richelieu_, _St. Germain_.
Apart from these compound garnishes, the following simple garnishes
also suit admirably, either alone, or separated by some kind of potato
preparation:—
_Braised Lettuce_, stuffed with ordinary forcemeat or rice.
_Cabbages_, moulded to the shape of small balls, braised and stuffed
with fine mince-meat or rice.
_Haricot-beans_, _Peas_ and _Broad-beans_, cohered with butter.
_Asparagus-heads_, white or green, cooked and cohered with butter.
_Celery_, _Endives_, and _Chicory_, all braised. _Brussels Sprouts_,
_Cauliflowers_, _Broccoli_, etc.
Finally, the garnishes and modes of preparation termed: _à l’Anglaise_,
_à la Boulangère_, _Braisés_, _Mariné en Chevreuil_, which I give below
for the leg and the shoulder, may be applied perfectly well to other
large pieces of mutton.
1303—LARGE COLD JOINTS OF MUTTON
Refer to Cold Beef; in all cases keep the dishing simple.
The garnishing is optional.
1304—LEG AND SHOULDER OF MUTTON
Legs of mutton or lamb ought never to appear on any but an ordinary
luncheon menu. Although, strictly speaking, they should always be
served after one of the ways described hereafter, all the garnishes
given above may be applied to them.
Shoulders may be roasted whole; but they may also be boned, seasoned
inside, rolled up, and firmly strung. They may be treated like the
legs, and the same garnishes are suited to them.
1305—GIGOT BOUILLI A L’ANGLAISE
Trim the leg, shorten it in the region of the tibia bone, and plunge
it into a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the proportion of
one-third oz. of salt per quart of water.
For an ordinary leg, add: three medium-sized carrots, two onions, each
stuck with a clove, a faggot, and two cloves of garlic.
Let the leg cook for a quarter of an hour for each two lbs. of its
weight.
Dish with vegetables all round, and serve at the same time a butter
sauce with capers.
N.B.—Leg of mutton _à l’anglaise_ may be accompanied by purées of
turnips, celery, etc., and these vegetables should cook with the meat.
A purée of potatoes or of haricot beans may be sent to the table with
the meat; but, in this case, of course, the vegetables would be served
separately.
1306—BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON
Suppress the pelvic bone, shorten the end bone and brown the leg in the
oven.
Now, put it in an oval utensil, garnished for braising; add just enough
white stock to barely cover the joint, and cook gently, allowing forty
minutes per lb. of meat.
Transfer the leg to a tray; strain the braising-liquor; clear it
of all grease, and reduce it to half. Sprinkle the meat with a few
tablespoonfuls of this reduced gravy, and set it to glaze in the oven.
Serve at the same time:—
(1) Either a purée of potatoes, of turnips, of haricot-beans, of
cauliflower, etc., or
(2) The reduced braising-liquor.
1307—GIGOT A LA BOULANGÈRE
The leg may either be boned, seasoned inside and strung; or the
end-bone may simply be shortened and that of the pelvis removed.
In either case, put it in an earthenware dish, and brown it well in the
oven, on both sides; then complete its cooking, all but a third.
This done, set round the joint four large, sliced onions, just tossed
in butter, that they may acquire some colour, and eight large, peeled
potatoes cut into roundels one half in. thick. Sprinkle this garnish
with the grease of the joint, and then complete the cooking of the leg
and its garnish.
Serve in the dish in which the joint has cooked.
1308—GIGOT MARINE EN CHEVREUIL
Shorten the end-bone; remove the bone of the pelvis, and skin the top
of the leg, leaving the meat in that region quite bare. Lard with very
small strips of bacon, and put the meat into a _marinade_ prepared
after the manner described under No. 170. The length of its stay in
the _marinade_ should be based upon the tenderness of the meat and
atmospheric conditions. In winter the time averages about three or four
days, and in summer two days.
_To Roast the Joint._—Withdraw it from the _marinade_ and dry it
thoroughly; set it on a stand in the baking-tray; and put it into a
very fierce oven, that the meat may _set_ immediately. The object
of the very fierce oven is to prevent the juices absorbed from the
_marinade_ escaping in steam and thereby hardening the meat.
Towards the close of the operation, rissole the larding bacon well.
Set on a long dish; fix a frill to the bone, and serve a Chevreuil
sauce separately.
_Chevreuil Sauce à la Française._—With the _marinade_ of the joint
and a _Mirepoix_ with ham, prepare a sufficient quantity of Poivrade
sauce (No. 49) to obtain two-thirds of a pint of it after it has been
strained through a colander—an operation which should be effected with
the application of great pressure to the aromatics.
Despumate this sauce for thirty minutes, and add, little by little,
half a wine-glassful of excellent red wine. Finish the seasoning with
a little cayenne and a pinch of powdered sugar, and once more rub the
whole through tammy or a fine strainer.
1309—GIGOT A LA SOUBISE
Braise the leg of mutton as shown under No. 247. When it is two-thirds
done, transfer it to another utensil; strain the braising-liquor over
it, and add thereto three lbs. of sliced onions and two-third lb. of
rice.
Gently complete the cooking of the joint, together with the onions and
the rice. This done:—(1) put it on a baking-tray and glaze it in the
oven; (2) quickly rub the onions and the rice through a fine sieve or
tammy.
Set the leg of mutton on a long dish; put a frill on the bone, and
serve, separately, the well-heated Soubise, finished with one oz. of
butter.
N.B.—This Soubise may be prepared separately; but in this case it has
much less flavour than when it is made from the onions and the rice
which have cooked in the braising-liquor. I therefore urge the adoption
of the recipe as it stands.
1310—COLD LEG OF MUTTON
Dish it very simply, like other cold large joints of mutton.
1311—CUTLETS
Mutton and lamb cutlets are sometimes _sautéd_; but grilling is
the most suitable method of cooking them. When the nature of their
preparation requires that they should be treated _à l’anglaise_, fry
them in clarified butter. All the garnishes, given under “Tournedos,”
except those served with sauces, may be applied to cutlets.
The latter also allow of a few special garnishes, and these I give in
the following recipes.
1312—CÔTELETTES A LA CHAMPVALLON (10 Cutlets)
Take some cutlets from the region underlying the shoulder; that is to
say, those uncovered by the removal of this joint. And do not clear the
bone-ends of their meat, as when frills are to be fixed to them.
Season them with salt and pepper, and brown them in butter on both
sides. This done, put them in an earthenware dish with half lb. of
sliced onions, tossed in butter without colouration; moisten with
enough white stock to almost cover the cutlets and the onions; add the
quarter of a clove of garlic, crushed, and a faggot; boil, and set in
the oven. At the end of twenty minutes, add one and one-half lbs. of
potatoes, fashioned to the shape of corks, and cut into thin roundels;
season, and complete the cooking, basting often the while.
When the cutlets are cooked, the moistening should be almost entirely
reduced.
1313—CÔTELETTES LAURA
Grill the cutlets, and, meanwhile, prepare a garnish (the quantity of
which should be such as to allow two and one-half oz. of it per cutlet)
of parboiled macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with cream,
and combined, per lb., with three and one-half oz. of peeled, pressed,
and _concassed_ tomatoes, tossed in butter.
Or, when white truffles are in season, prepare some macaroni with
cream, as above, combined with the peelings of raw, white truffles.
Cut some very soft pig’s caul into triangles, proportionate in size to
the cutlets; spread a little macaroni on each triangle; on the latter
set a cutlet; cover the cutlets with some more macaroni, and enclose
the whole in the caul. Lay the cutlets on a dish.
Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill at the
salamander, or in a fierce oven, for seven or eight minutes.
Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown, and surround them with a
thread of clear half-glaze sauce, combined with tomatoes.
1314—CÔTELETTES A LA MAINTENON
Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. This done, put a heaped
tablespoonful of a _Maintenon_ preparation (No. 226) on each; shape it
like a dome, by means of the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid
water, and put the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. The _Maintenon_
preparation should be laid on the cooked side of each cutlet and
sprinkled with fine raspings and melted butter. Now put the cutlets in
a rather hot oven for seven or eight minutes in order to:—
(1) Allow a _gratin_ to form over the surface of the garnish.
(2) Finish the cooking of the cutlets.
Dish the latter in the form of a crown, and serve, separately, a
sauceboat of meat glaze finished with butter.
1315—CÔTELETTES A LA MURILLO
Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only; and garnish the cooked
side, dome-fashion, with a fine hash of mushrooms, cohered with a
little very reduced Béchamel sauce.
Set them on a tray; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of
melted butter, and glaze in a fierce oven. Dish the cutlets in the form
of a crown; fix a frill to each, and surround them with mild capsicums
and tomatoes, both of which should be sliced, tossed in butter, and
mixed.
1316—CÔTELETTES A LA PROVENÇALE
For ten cutlets:—(1) Reduce one-half pint of Béchamel sauce to a third,
and add thereto the third of a garlic clove, crushed, and the yolks of
three eggs; (2) prepare at the same time as the cutlets, ten grilled
mushrooms; and ten stoned, stuffed and poached olives, girded by a
strip of anchovy fillet.
Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Cover the cooked side of
each with the preparation described above; set them on a tray; sprinkle
them with a few drops of melted butter, and put them in the oven, that
their garnish may be glazed and that their cooking may be completed.
Dish in the form of a circle; place a grilled mushroom (convex side
uppermost) in the middle of each cutlet, and, on each mushroom, a
stuffed olive.
1316a—CÔTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA REFORME
Trim six mutton cutlets; season them; dip them in melted butter, and
roll them in bread-crumbs, combined with finely-chopped ham in the
proportion of a third of the weight of the bread-crumbs. Now cook them
gently in clarified butter.
Dish them in a circle on a hot dish, and send the following sauce to
the table with them:—
Take a small saucepan, and mix therein three tablespoonfuls of
half-glaze sauce, the same quantity of Poivrade sauce, and one
coffeespoonful of red-currant jelly; add one coffeespoonful of each
of the following short _julienne_ garnishes to the sauce; viz.:
hard-boiled white of egg; very red, salted tongue; gherkins; mushrooms,
and truffles.
1317—CÔTELETTES A LA SÉVIGNÉ
Have ready a preparation of mushroom and artichoke-bottom croquettes,
in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful for each cutlet.
Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Garnish the fried side
of each, dome-fashion, with the above preparation; treat them _à
l’anglaise_, and sprinkle them with melted butter.
Put them in the oven to complete their cooking, and, at the same time,
to colour their coating of egg and bread-crumbs.
Dish in the form of a crown.
1318—CÔTELETTES A LA SUÉDOISE
Place the cutlets on a dish, and drop thereon some minced onions and
shallots, bits of parsley stalks, thyme and bay. Sprinkle them with the
juice of a lemon and a few drops of oil, and leave them to _marinade_
for thirty minutes, turning them over the while, from time to time.
This done, dry them; dip them in melted butter, sprinkle them with
bread-crumbs, and grill them.
Dish them in the form of a crown, and garnish the centre of the dish
with the following, which may also be sent separately: one-half lb. of
peeled and finely-sliced apples, quickly stewed to a purée with the
third of a wineglassful of white wine. When about to serve, add to this
purée two and one-half oz. of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter
grated and afterwards finely chopped.
1319—CÔTELETTES EN BELLE VUE
Proceed after one of the recipes given for veal cutlets and grenadins
“en Belle Vue.”
1320—CÔTELETTES EN CHAUDFROID
Cut some very regular cutlets from a neck of mutton or lamb, which
should have been trimmed as explained, braised, and left to cook in its
braising-liquor. Clear all grease from the latter; strain it; reduce
it, and add to it a brown chaud-froid sauce (No. 34).
Dip the cutlets in the sauce when it is almost cold; set them on a
tray; deck the kernel of meat in each with a fine slice of truffle, and
sprinkle with cold, melted aspic. When the sauce has set well, pass the
point of a small knife round the cutlets, with the view of removing
the superfluous sauce; and either dish them round a vegetable salad,
cohered and moulded, or simply dish them in the form of a circle and
place a pyramid of cohered, vegetable salad in their midst.
1321—NOISETTES DE MOUTON
Mutton _noisettes_, and especially those of lamb, may be classed among
the choicest of entrées. They are cut from either the fillet or the
neck; but, in the latter case, only the first six or seven ribs are
used.
_Noisettes_ are grilled or _sautéd_, and all the recipes given for
Tournedos (Nos. 1077 to 1139) and for cutlets, may be applied to them.
1322—MINION FILLETS
The minion fillets of mutton or lamb consist of the two muscles which
lie under the saddle. Their mode of preparation changes according to
their size. Thus, if they are small, they are served whole, after
having been trimmed, sometimes larded; and _sautéd_.
If they are large, they are divided into two or three parts, cut
laterally and aslant; they are flattened, trimmed to the shape of
ellipses, seasoned, dipped in melted butter, sprinkled with fine
bread-crumbs, and finally, gently grilled.
Minion fillets of beef, obtained from the narrow extremity or head
of the fillet, are also used occasionally; and these are generally
flattened, dipped in butter and fine bread-crumbs, and grilled.
These fillets are served chiefly with vegetable purées or with
_macédoines_ of fresh vegetables.
The sauces best suited to them are the Béarnaise and the Robert
Escoffier.
1323—SHEEP’S TONGUES
Salted or fresh sheep’s tongues make an excellent luncheon entrée.
They are cooked after the manner of ox and calf’s tongues, due
allowance being made for the difference of size.
The various garnishes given for ox and calf’s tongues may also be used
in this case.
1324—SHEEP’S TROTTERS
Sheep’s trotters, as they reach us from the purveyor, should first be
well singed over spirits of wine, and then rubbed with a clean piece
of linen. The little tuft of hair in the cleft of the hoof is next
removed, the hoof itself is suppressed, and the trotters are split open
lengthwise and boned. Sheep’s trotters are cooked like calf’s feet, in
the special _court-bouillon_ or blanc, given under No. 167.
1325—FRITÔT OF SHEEP’S TROTTERS
Fifteen minutes before frying them, put the sheep’s trotters into
a receptacle with lemon juice, a few drops of oil and some chopped
parsley; keeping the quantity of these ingredients in proportion to the
number of trotters. Be careful to toss the latter from time to time in
the _marinade_.
A few moments before serving, dip the half-trotters into batter
(No. 232) and plunge them into an abundant and hot frying-medium.
Drain them when the batter is nicely dry and golden; and dish on a
napkin with a border of very green fried parsley.
Serve a tomato sauce separately.
1326—PIEDS DE MOUTON POULETTE
For this dish the trotters should, as far as possible, be freshly
cooked. For twenty trotters prepare two-thirds of a pint of poulette
sauce; add the trotters thereto, well drained; toss them in the sauce,
and dish them in a timbale with a sprinkling of chopped parsley.
1327—PIEDS DE MOUTON ROUENNAISE
Instead of cooking the sheep’s trotters in a _blanc_, braise them; add
a little Madeira to their braising-liquor, and cook them thoroughly.
Prepare a forcemeat, consisting of one and one-half lbs. of very fine
sausage-meat; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without
colouration, and a large pinch of parsley.
When the trotters are cooked, transfer them to a dish; almost entirely
reduce their braising-liquor; add to this two liqueur-glassfuls
of burnt brandy, for each ten trotters, and add this reduced
braising-liquor to the forcemeat. Cut ten rectangles six inches long by
four inches wide out of pig’s caul.
Spread a tablespoonful of forcemeat over each; set two trotters on the
forcemeat of each rectangle; cover up with forcemeat, and draw the ends
of the caul together in suchwise as to enclose the whole.
Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and melted butter; grill gently, and serve.
1328—PIEDS DE MOUTON TYROLIENNE
Cook a fair-sized chopped onion in butter, together with three peeled,
pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper;
add a pinch of chopped parsley, a little crushed garlic, one-sixth of
a pint of Poivrade sauce, and twenty freshly-cooked and well-drained
sheep’s trotters.
Simmer for ten minutes and dish in a timbale.
1329—MUTTON KIDNEYS
Mutton kidneys are either grilled or _sautéd_. When they are to be
grilled, first remove the fine skin enveloping them, cut them in
halves, without completely severing them on their concave side, and
impale them on a small skewer, with the view of keeping them open
during the grilling operation. Before grilling they may or may not be
dipped in melted butter and rolled in bread-crumb.
When they are to be _sautéd_, clear the kidneys, as before, of the thin
skin which envelops them; cut them into halves, and then into slices
one-quarter in. thick.
Kidneys, of what kind soever, should be cooked very quickly, otherwise
they harden. After having seasoned them, put them into very hot butter,
and toss them over a fierce fire in order to stiffen them. This done,
drain them; and let them stand for a few minutes, that they may exude
the blood they contain, which sometimes has a distinct ammoniacal
smell.
Meanwhile, swill the utensil in which they have been _sautéd_, and
finish the sauce, to which they are added when dishing up. Never let
the kidneys boil in the sauce, for they would immediately harden.
1330—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BERCY
Slice, season, and quickly toss the mutton kidneys in butter, and drain
them.
For six kidneys put one tablespoonful of finely-chopped shallots into
the saucepan, and just heat it. Moisten with one-sixth of a pint of
white wine; reduce to half; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat
glaze, and a few drops of lemon-juice, and put the kidneys in this
sauce. Add two and one-half oz. of butter, cut into small pieces; melt
this on the corner of the stove, tossing and rolling the pan the while;
dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the
kidneys.
1331—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BORDELAISE
Fry the mutton kidneys, and drain them as above.
Put into the saucepan one-third of a pint of Bordelaise sauce combined
with poached dice of marrow, a pinch of chopped parsley, and three oz.
of sliced _cèpes_, tossed in butter and oil and well drained.
Return the kidneys to the saucepan; toss them in the sauce, and dish in
a timbale.
1332—ROGNONS SAUTÉS CARVALHO
Fry the skinned, halved and seasoned mutton kidneys in butter, and
dish them, each on a small _croûton_ of bread-crumb, cut to the shape
of a cock’s comb and fried in butter. On each half-kidney, set a small
cooked mushroom and a slice of truffle.
Swill the saucepan with Madeira; add a little half-glaze; put in a
small quantity of butter, away from the fire, and pour this sauce over
the kidneys.
1333—ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU CHAMPAGNE
Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them in two
lengthwise; season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish in a
timbale.
Swill the saucepan with one-half pint of champagne per six kidneys;
reduce almost entirely; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze;
add a small quantity of butter, and pour this sauce over the kidneys.
N.B.—The preparation of kidneys _sautéd_ with wine always follows the
same principle; that is to say, the saucepan in which the kidneys have
cooked is always swilled with a quantity of wine, in proportion to the
number of kidneys; a proportionate amount of meat glaze is then added,
and after the sauce has been slightly buttered, the kidneys are tossed
in it.
1334—ROGNONS SAUTÉS HONGROISE
Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them into halves;
slice and season them; fry them in butter, and drain them.
In the saucepan that has served in the cooking of the kidneys, fry a
chopped onion with butter, and add thereto a pinch of paprika.
Moisten with a tablespoonful of cream, and reduce; add one-sixth of a
pint of velouté, boil for a moment, and rub through tammy.
Heat this sauce; put the kidneys into it, toss them for a minute, so as
to heat without boiling them, and dish in a timbale.
1335—ROGNONS SAUTÉS CHASSEUR
Quickly fry the sliced mutton kidneys in butter and drain them.
Swill the saucepan with white wine and almost entirely reduce; add
one-third of a pint of Chausseur sauce for each six kidneys; put
the kidneys in this sauce, toss them for an instant; dish them in a
timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
1336—ROGNONS SAUTÉS A L’INDIENNE
For six mutton kidneys: fry a chopped onion in butter and add a large
pinch of curry thereto. Moisten with one-sixth pint of velouté; cook
for a few minutes, and rub through tammy.
Clear the kidneys of their outer skin; slice and season them, and
fry them quickly in butter. Put them into the sauce; dish them in a
timbale, and serve some rice “à l’Indienne” separately.
1337—ROGNONS SAUTÉS TURBIGO
Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin and cut them in halves;
season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish them in a circle in a
timbale.
In their midst set a garnish of small, cooked mushrooms, and grilled
chipolata sausages; and pour thereon a highly-seasoned, tomatéd
half-glaze sauce.
1338—CROÛTE AUX ROGNONS
Cut some crusts two and one-half in. in diameter and one and
one-third in. thick, from a tin-loaf, and allow one for each person.
Remove the crumb from their inside, leaving only a slight thickness at
the bottom; butter them, and dry them in the oven.
Garnish these crusts with mutton kidneys _sautéd_ with mushrooms, and
combined with small, ordinary forcemeat quenelles, and slices of
truffle.
Dish on a napkin, and serve very hot.
1339—TURBAN DE ROGNONS A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Garnish a border or a Savarin-mould with “rizotto à la Piémontaise,”
press the latter lightly into the utensil, and keep the mould hot.
Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin; cut them into halves;
season them, and fry them quickly in butter.
Turn out on a round dish, set the half-kidneys in a circle on the
“Turban,” alternating them with fine slices of truffle, and pour a
tomatéd half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, in the middle.
1340—ROGNONS A LA BROCHETTE
Cut the mutton kidneys into halves, as explained, without dividing
them; impale them two or four at a time, on a skewer; season them,
and grill them in a somewhat fierce oven. Set them, with the skewers
withdrawn, upon a hot dish, and put into the cavity of each a piece of
softened, Maître-d’hôtel butter, the size of a hazel nut.
1341—ROGNONS BROCHETTE A L’ESPAGNOLE
Prepare the mutton kidneys as above.
Grill the same quantity of small, pressed and seasoned half-tomatoes.
Garnish these tomatoes with a piece, the size of a walnut, of
Maître-d’hôtel butter, combined with two-thirds oz. of chopped capsicum
per three oz. of butter. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a kidney
on each, and surround with a border consisting of rings of onion,
seasoned, dredged and crisply fried in oil.
1342—ROGNONS BROCHETTE AU VERT PRÉ
Prepare the mutton kidneys exactly as explained under the first of this
kind of recipes, and surround them with small heaps of straw potatoes
and bunches of very green parsley.
1343—BROCHETTES DE ROGNONS
Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys, and cut them into
roundels one-third in. thick. Season these roundels and stiffen them
in butter over a very fierce fire. Impale them on skewers, alternating
them with squares of _blanched_ lean bacon and slices of _sautéd_
mushrooms. Sprinkle with melted butter and raspings, and grill.
These brochettes are generally served as they stand.
=Various Preparations of Mutton.=
1344—CASSOULET
(1) Set one quart of haricot beans to cook with two quarts of water,
one-third oz. of salt, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, one
faggot, six garlic cloves, and two-thirds lb. of fresh pork rind,
_blanched_ and strung together. Boil; skim; cover, and cook gently for
one hour. At the end of this time, add two-thirds lb. of breast of
pork, and a sausage with garlic, of the same weight as the pork. Salt
the beans very moderately, allowing for the reduction which they have
ultimately to undergo.
Complete the cooking of the whole gently.
(2) Fry gently in lard one lb. of shoulder, and the same weight of
breast, of mutton; both cut into pieces one and one-half oz. in weight.
This done, drain away half the grease; add two chopped onions and two
crushed cloves of garlic, and fry again until the onions have acquired
a slight colour. Now pour in one-sixth pint of good tomato purée;
moisten the meat, enough to cover, with the cooking-liquor of haricot
beans, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours at least.
(3) Garnish the bottom and sides of some _cocottes_ or deep dishes with
bacon rind; fill these with alternate layers of the pieces of mutton,
the beans, the bacon cut into dice, and the sausage cut into roundels.
Sprinkle the surface with raspings, and set the _gratin_ to form in a
moderate oven for one hour; taking care to baste from time to time with
some reserved haricot-beans cooking-liquor.
1345—CURRIE A L’INDIENNE
Cut two lbs. of lean mutton into cubes of one and one-third in. side,
and fry these in three oz. of lard, with one chopped onion, salt, and
a pinch of powdered curry. When the meat is frizzled and the onions
begin to colour, sprinkle with one and one-third oz. of flour; cook the
latter a while; moisten with one and one-third pints of water or stock;
boil, stirring the while, so as to dissolve the roux, and then cook
gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. When about to serve,
clear of all grease and dish in a timbale.
Send a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.
1346—DAUBE A L’AVIGNONNAISE
Bone a medium-sized leg of mutton, and cut the meat into squares,
three oz. in weight. Lard each square with a large, seasoned strip of
bacon, inserted with the grain of the meat. Put the pieces into a
_daubière_ with a sliced half-carrot and onion, three cloves of garlic,
a little thyme, bay, and parsley stalks. Moisten with one and one-third
pints of good, red wine and four tablespoonfuls of oil, and _marinade_
in the cool for two hours.
Prepare:—(1) Three chopped onions mixed with two crushed garlic
cloves; (2) one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice and _blanched_;
(3) one-half lb. of fresh, bacon rind, _blanched_ and cut into squares
of one in. side; (4) a large bunch of parsley, containing a small piece
of dry, orange peel. Garnish the bottom and sides of a _daubière_ with
thin slices of bacon; set the pieces of mutton in layers inside, and
alternate them with layers of onion, bacon and bacon rind; sprinkle a
pinch of powdered thyme and bay on each layer of meat. Put the faggot
in the middle.
Moisten with the _marinade_, strained through a sieve, and one-fifth
pint of brown stock; cover with slices of bacon; close the _daubière_,
and seal down the lid by means of a thread of soft paste, in order that
the steam may be concentrated inside.
Boil on the side of the stove; put the _daubière_ in an oven of regular
heat (a baker’s oven if possible) that the cooking process may be
gentle and steady, and cook for five hours.
When about to serve, uncover the _daubière_; remove the overlying
slices of bacon; clear of grease; remove the faggot, and dish the
_daubière_ on a napkin.
N.B.—According to the household method, the “Daube” is served in the
_daubière_ itself; but, subject to the demands of the service and in
order that the preparation may keep its bucolic character, it may be
served in small earthenware utensils.
1347—DAUBE FROIDE
Cold Daube constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. All that is needed
is to put what is left into a small _daubière_, where, as a result of
the binding properties of the pork rinds, it will set in a mass.
When about to serve, turn out on a round dish; surround with very
light, chopped jelly; and carve into very thin slices.
1348—ÉMINCÉS ET HACHIS
An unalterable principle governs the preparation of émincés and hashes,
which is that the meats constituting these dishes should never boil if
it be desired that they be not hard.
They should, therefore, only be heated in their accompanying garnish or
sauce, and in the case of émincés, cut as finely as possible.
For the various recipes under this head, see the Chapter on Beef.
(Nos. 1175, 1178 and 1179.)
1349—HARICOT DE MOUTON
Heat three oz. of lard in a sautépan. Put therein one-half lb. of lean
bacon, cut into dice and _blanched_, and twenty small onions. When the
bacon is frizzled and the onions have acquired a good colour, drain
both on a dish. In the same fat, fry three lbs. of breast, neck and
shoulder of mutton, all three being cut into pieces weighing about
three oz. Keep the meat in the fat until each piece of it has acquired
a frizzled coat.
Drain away half of the grease; add three crushed cloves of garlic; dust
with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook the latter, stirring the
while.
Moisten with one quart of water; season with one-third oz. of salt and
a pinch of pepper; boil and stir; add a faggot, and cook in the oven
for thirty minutes.
This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add the bacon and
the onions and a quart of half-cooked haricot beans; strain the sauce
over the whole, and complete the cooking in the oven for one hour.
Dish in a timbale or in small _cocottes_.
1350—IRISH STEW
Cut two lbs. of boned breast and shoulder of mutton into pieces, as
above.
Slice two lbs. of potatoes and chop four medium-sized onions.
Take a saucepan just large enough to hold these ingredients and the
moistening; line the bottom of the utensil with a layer of the pieces
of meat, and season the latter with salt and pepper. Upon the meat
spread a litter of sliced potatoes and chopped onions; repeat the
operation, again and again, until all the ingredients are used up, and
remember to place a faggot in the middle.
Moisten with one and one-third pint of water, and cook gently in the
oven for one and one-half hours. The potatoes in this preparation
answer the double purpose of garnish and leason.
Dish in a timbale and serve boiling.
1351—MOUSSAKA
(1) Cut six fine egg-plants into halves, lengthwise; _cisel_ the pulp
somewhat deeply with the point of a small knife, and fry them until
their pulp may be easily removed. Do this with a spoon, and put the
pulp aside with the skins of the egg-plants.
(2) Peel two fair-sized egg-plants; cut them into roundels
one-third in. thick; season them, dredge them; fry them in oil, and put
them aside.
(3) Chop up the pulp withdrawn from the egg-plants, and put it into a
basin with one and one-half lbs. of very lean, cooked mutton, chopped
or cut into very small dice; two tablespoonfuls of very finely-chopped
onion, fried in butter; a pinch of parsley; a piece of crushed garlic
as large as a pea; three oz. of roughly-chopped raw mushrooms, fried
in butter; two eggs; two tablespoonfuls of cold Espagnole sauce; one
tablespoonful of tomato purée; a pinch of salt, and another of pepper.
Mix the whole well.
(4) Butter a low-bordered quart Charlotte mould; line it all over
with the egg-plant skins, and lay these black side uppermost. Garnish
the bottom of the mould with a layer of mincemeat, one in. thick; on
this layer place a few fried roundels of egg-plant, and continue thus
with alternate layers of mince and egg-plant. Cover the last layer
of mince-meat with the remains of the egg-plant skins, and cook in a
_bain-marie_ for one hour.
When taking the mould out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes in
order that the ingredients may settle; turn out on a round dish, and
besprinkle the surface of the Moussaka with chopped parsley.
1352—MUTTON PUDDING
Follow the directions given under beefsteak pudding (No. 1170) exactly.
The preparation is just the same, but for the substitution of mutton
for the beef.
1353—NAVARIN PRINTANIER
Heat four oz. of clarified fat in a sautépan, and put into it four lbs.
of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton; all three cut into pieces
weighing two and one-half oz. Fry over a very brisk fire; season with
one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of ground pepper, and another of sugar.
The sugar settles slowly on the bottom of the sautépan, where it turns
to caramel; it is then dissolved by the moistening, and thus gives the
sauce the required colour.
When the meat is well fried, remove almost all the fat; sprinkle with
one and one-half oz. of flour; cook the latter for a few minutes, and
moisten with one and one-half quarts of water or stock.
Boil, stirring the while, and add two-thirds lb. of fresh _concassed_
tomatoes or one-fifth pint of tomato purée; one crushed clove of
garlic, and a large faggot. Cover and cook in the oven for one hour.
This done, transfer the pieces of mutton, one by one, to another
saucepan with twenty small, new onions; twenty pieces of new trimmed
carrots; twenty pieces of new turnips, cut to the shape of long olives
and tossed with butter in a frying-pan; twenty small, new potatoes,
cut into two, and trimmed, or whole; one-sixth pint of fresh peas, and
an equal quantity of raw French beans, cut into lozenges. Strain the
sauce over the whole; set to boil, and continue cooking slowly in the
oven for one hour; taking care from time to time to baste the overlying
vegetables with sauce.
Dish in a timbale and serve very hot.
N.B.—When put into the sauce, the vegetables cook much less quickly
than in boiling water. In the Navarin, moreover, they are cooked by
means of gradual penetration; thus, by slackening the cooking speed of
the Navarin, they are cooked to the required extent.
1354—PILAW DE MOUTON A LA TURQUE
Mutton Pilaff is, in fact, nothing but a Navarin in which the tomatoes
dominate the other ingredients; it is flavoured with ginger or saffron,
according to circumstances, and the usual vegetables are replaced by
rice. Prepared in this way, it does not lend itself very well to the
exigencies of a restaurant service.
More often, therefore, it is treated like curried mutton; but, instead
of serving it with rice à l’Indienne, it is dished in the midst of a
pilaff-rice border. Sometimes, too, the rice is served separately,
after the manner of a curry dish.
HOUSE LAMB.
1355—BARON (OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS) OF LAMB
1356—DOUBLE (OR PAIR OF LEGS) OF LAMB
1357—QUARTER OF LAMB
1358—FILLET OF LAMB
1359—SADDLE AND NECK OF LAMB
Large joints of lamb for Relevés are cut like those of mutton.
One joint, however, should be added, which is “The Haunch”; and this
consists of one leg and half the loin attached.
Large joints of house lamb should be _poëled_ or roasted. Their most
suitable adjunct is either their own stock, or a thickened, highly
seasoned and clear gravy.
House Lamb Relevés are chiefly garnished with early-season or new
vegetables; but all the garnishes given under Mutton Relevés may also
be served with them, provided the difference in size be taken into
account. In addition to these garnishes, saddle of lamb admits of all
the preparations given under saddle of veal (Nos. 1181 to 1191).
1360—SELLE D’AGNEAU DE LAIT ÉDOUARD VII.
Completely bone the saddle from underneath, in suchwise as to leave
the skin intact; season it inside, and place in the middle a fine foie
gras, studded with truffles and _marinaded_ in Marsala.
Reconstruct the saddle, and wrap it tightly in a piece of muslin; put
it in a saucepan just large enough to hold it, on a litter of pieces
of bacon rind, cleared of all fat and _blanched_. Moisten, enough to
cover, with the braising-liquor of a cushion of veal; add thereto
the Marsala used in _marinading_ the foie gras, and poach for about
forty-five minutes.
Before withdrawing the saddle, make sure that the foie gras is
sufficiently cooked. Remove the muslin, and put the saddle in an
oval _terrine à pâté_ just large enough to hold it. Strain the
cooking-liquor over it, without clearing the former of grease, and set
it to cool.
When the saddle is quite cold, carefully clear away the grease that
lies upon it, first by means of a spoon and then by means of boiling
water. Serve it very cold, in the terrine as it stands.
1361—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU BEAUCAIRE
Having trimmed the neck of lamb, as explained, brown it in butter;
surround it with eight small, Provence half-artichokes, and cook gently
in the oven. The artichokes in question have no chokes and are very
tender.
Meanwhile, peel, press, _concass_ and season four or five tomatoes, and
fry them in butter. When they are ready, add a large pinch of chopped
tarragon to them.
Dish the tomatoes; set the neck upon them, and surround it with the
stewed half-artichokes.
1362—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU EN COCOTTE A LA BONNE FEMME
Fry a shortened and well-trimmed neck of lamb, in butter.
This done, transfer it to an oval _cocotte_ with ten small onions
browned in butter, and two medium-sized potatoes, cut into large dice,
shaped like garlic cloves, and _blanched_. Sprinkle the whole with
melted butter and cook gently in the oven.
Serve the preparation as it stands, in the _cocotte_, placing the
latter on a folded napkin.
1363—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU A LA BOULANGÈRE
Fry the neck of lamb with butter, in an earthenware dish, and surround
it with sliced onions, tossed in butter, and sliced potatoes; both of
which vegetables should be in quantities in proportion to the size of
the piece of meat. The “à la Boulangère” procedure is always the same,
and was explained under No. 1307, but allowances should always be made
for the particular size and tenderness of the piece.
1364—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU GRILLÉ
Having shortened and well trimmed the neck, season it; sprinkle it with
melted butter, and grill it gently.
When it is almost cooked, sprinkle it again with melted butter and
bread-crumbs, and let it acquire a golden colour while completely
cooking it.
Serve very hot with mint sauce and a suitable garnish.
1365—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU MIREILLE
Prepare some Anna potatoes (No. 2203) in an oval earthenware
dish, and add a third of the quantity of potatoes of raw, minced
artichoke-bottoms.
When the potatoes are three-parts cooked, stiffen the neck in butter;
place it on the potatoes, and complete the cooking of the two, basting
often the while with melted butter.
Send the preparation to the table on the dish that has served in the
cooking process.
1366—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU PRINTANIER
Prepare the following garnish: eight small onions, half-cooked in
butter; ten carrots of the size and shape of garlic cloves, cooked
in consommé and glazed; and ten turnips of the same shape and size,
similarly treated.
Put these vegetables into a _cocotte_ with three tablespoonfuls of
fresh peas; the same quantity of raw, French beans, cut into lozenge
form; two or three tablespoonfuls of good and very clear stock, and
complete the cooking of the whole.
Meanwhile, _poële_ the neck of lamb, which should have been shortened
and trimmed in the usual way. Dish the neck of lamb and serve the
vegetables in the _cocotte_.
1367—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU SOUBISE
Having shortened and trimmed the neck of lamb, stiffen it in butter;
surround it with one-half lb. of finely-minced and well-blanched
onions, and complete the cooking of both by stewing.
This done, transfer the neck to a dish and keep it hot. Add
one-quarter pint of boiling Béchamel sauce to the onions, and rub them
quickly through tammy or a fine sieve. Heat this Soubise; finish it
with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour it over the neck.
Border the dish with a thread of rather light meat glaze, and serve.
1368—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU A LA TOSCANE
Shorten the neck of lamb; suppress the cartilaginous portions and
stiffen it in butter. Garnish the bottom of an oval earthenware dish,
of the same size as the neck, with a layer of Anna potatoes (No. 2203).
Set the neck on this layer, and cover it over with a second layer of
the same potato preparation. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; cook in
the oven as for Anna potatoes, and take care that the bottom be so
well set as to prevent any of the juices of the joint from exuding and
depositing on it.
Serve the dish as it stands.
1369—LEG AND SHOULDER OF LAMB
All the recipes given under Haunch and Double (pair of legs), may be
applied to the legs and shoulders of house lamb.
The shoulders are often grilled, the operation being effected over
a moderate fire after the joints have been incised lattice-fashion,
and the same applies to the breast. The “à la Boulangère” treatment
(No. 1307) admirably suits the legs and shoulders of house lamb.
1370—CUTLETS
According to custom, lamb cutlets are usually served like “Noisettes,”
_i.e._, two are allowed for each person.
As a rule, when they are to be grilled, they are previously dipped in
melted butter and sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs.
When they are to be _sautéd_ they are treated _à l’anglaise_ (egg and
bread-crumbs) except when, subject to their mode of preparation, they
have to be served plain or stuffed.
1371—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT A LA BULOZ
Prepare:—(1) a rizotto (No. 2238) with truffles, in proportion to the
number of cutlets; (2) some very reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with
one-half oz. of grated Parmesan per one-fifth pint of the sauce, and
allowing one small tablespoonful of it for each cutlet.
Half-grill the cutlets; dry them, and cover them, on both sides, with
the reduced sauce. As soon as the cutlets have received their coat
of sauce, dip them, one by one, into beaten egg (_anglaise_); roll
them in very fine bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan. Thoroughly
press this coating of bread-crumbs with the flat of a knife, that
it may adhere well to the egg and produce a crust at the close of
the operation. This done, set the cutlets in a sautépan of very hot,
clarified butter, and brown them on both sides.
Dish the rizotto in a very even layer; set the cutlets in a circle on
the rice, and fix a frill to the bone of each.
1372—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT MARÉCHALE
Treat the cutlets _à l’anglaise_, and cook them in clarified butter.
Dish them in a circle, with a fine slice of truffle upon each; and, in
their midst, set a nice heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
1373—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT MILANAISE
Treat the cutlets _à l’anglaise_, but add to the bread-crumbs the
quarter of their weight of grated Parmesan.
Cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle, and, in
their midst, arrange a garnish “à la milanaise” (see Côte de Veau à la
Milanaise, No. 1258.)
1374—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT MORLAND
Slightly flatten the cutlets, dip them in beaten egg, and roll them
in finely-chopped truffle, which in this case answers the purpose of
bread-crumbs. Press the truffle with the flat of a knife, that it may
thoroughly combine with the egg, and cook the cutlets in clarified
butter. Dish them in a circle; garnish the centre of the dish with a
mushroom purée (No. 2059), and surround the cutlets with a thread of
buttered meat glaze.
1375—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT NAVARRAISE
For twelve cutlets, make a preparation consisting of four oz. of
ham, four oz. of cooked mushrooms, and one-half oz. of chopped, red
capsicums; the whole being cohered by means of a very reduced Béchamel
sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.
Grill the cutlets on one side only, and garnish them on their grilled
side with a tablespoonful of the above preparation, which should be
shaped like a dome upon them.
Set the cutlets upon a tray as soon as they are garnished; sprinkle the
surface of the preparation, covering them with grated cheese and melted
butter, and place them in the oven, that their cooking may be completed
and the _gratin_ formed. Meanwhile, toss twelve seasoned half-tomatoes
in oil. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a cutlet upon each, and
border with a thread of tomato sauce.
1376—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT NELSON
Grill the cutlets, and, at the same time, prepare as many bread-crumb
_croûtons_ as there are cutlets, and of exactly the same shape as the
latter. Fry the _croûtons_ in butter, and coat them with foie-gras
purée.
Place a grilled cutlet on each coated _croûton_, and a slice of truffle
on the kernel of each cutlet. Now, by means of a piping-bag, fitted
with an even pipe, cover the cutlets with some soufflé au Parmesan
(No. 2295a); dish them in a circle, and put them in the oven for five
minutes, that the _soufflé_ may poach.
After withdrawing them from the oven, garnish the centre of the dish
with a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
1377—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT FARCIES A LA PÉRIGUEUX
Cook the cutlets in butter on one side only, and cool them under slight
pressure.
Garnish the cooked side of each with a tablespoonful of forcemeat with
butter (No. 193), which should have received a copious addition of
chopped truffles. Shape this forcemeat dome-fashion, by means of the
flat of a small knife, dipped in tepid water, and set the cutlets, one
by one, on a tray. Now put them in the front of the oven for seven or
eight minutes that the forcemeat may be poached.
Dish them in a circle, and pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst.
1378—EPIGRAMMES D’AGNEAU
A lamb “epigram” consists of a cutlet, and a piece of braised breast,
cooled under slight pressure and cut to the shape of a heart of the
same size as the cutlets. The cutlets and the pieces of breast must
be treated _à l’anglaise_, and _sautéd_ or grilled according to
circumstance.
Epigrams should be dished in a circle, the cutlets and the pieces being
alternated.
They are usually garnished with braised chicory, or _macédoines_ of
early-season vegetables.
1379—RIS D’AGNEAU
Lamb sweetbreads are, according to circumstances, either used as the
principal constituent of various preparations, or they answer the
purpose of a garnish.
Due allowance having been made for their particular size, they may be
treated after the same manner as veal sweetbreads; that is to say,
once they have been cleared of blood, they are _blanched_ and braised
according to the nature of the selected mode of preparation.
If they are to form part of a large garnish, cohered by means of a
brown sauce, they are braised brown and glazed. If they stand as an
adjunct to poached fowl, they may be either studded or left plain, and
braised white.
Apart from their two uses as principal and garnishing constituents,
the undermentioned methods of preparation, explained in the various
preceding series, may be applied to them; viz.:—
_Attereaux_, _Brochettes_, _Croustades_, _Pâté chaud_, _Vol au
vent_, &c.
1380—SAUTÉ D’AGNEAU PRINTANIER
Prepare the following garnish:—Twenty new carrots, cut to the shape
of large olives, cooked in consommé and glazed; twenty pieces of
turnip, similarly treated; fifteen small, new onions, cooked in butter;
twenty very small new potatoes, cooked in butter (or _à l’anglaise_ if
desired); three tablespoonfuls of peas; the same quantity of French
beans cut into lozenge-form, and an equal quantity of small flageolet
beans. The three last vegetables should be cooked _à l’anglaise_, and
kept rather firm.
Cut two lbs. of shoulder and breast of lamb into pieces weighing
two oz., and completely cook them in butter without any moistening.
This done, transfer them to a dish. Swill the saucepan with three
tablespoonfuls of water; add five tablespoonfuls of pale meat glaze;
heat without boiling, and finish with two and one-half oz. of butter.
Put the pieces of lamb and the vegetables into this sauce, and gently
rock the saucepan, that all the ingredients may partake of the sauce.
Serve in a hot timbale.
1381—PILAW D’AGNEAU
Proceed exactly as explained under “Pilaw de Mouton” (No. 1354),
only bear in mind that the time allowed for cooking should be
proportionately shortened in view of the greater tenderness of lamb’s
meat.
1382—CURRIE D’AGNEAU
Proceed as for “Currie de Mouton,” after duly allowing, as above, for
the greater tenderness of the meat.
PORK
=Relevés and Entrées.=
1383—FRESH LEG OF PORK
1384—FRESH PORK FILLETS
1385—FRESH NECK OF PORK
Relevés of fresh pork are only served at family and bourgeois meals.
They are always roasts and allow of all the dry or fresh vegetable
garnishes, as well as the various vegetable purées, and the pastes,
such as macaroni, noodles, polenta, gnochi, &c. I shall, therefore,
give only a few recipes, and shall select Fresh Neck of Pork as the
typical joint.
1386—FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA CHOUCROÛTE
Roast the neck of pork and withdraw it from the oven a few minutes
before it is done.
Keep it in the stove for an hour, that its cooking may be completed
gently; but remember, that if a stove is not available, the cooking of
the piece should be well finished in the oven; for pork is indigestible
when it is not thoroughly well cooked.
Meanwhile, prepare a garnish of sauerkraut (No. 2097), and, during the
last hour of its cooking, sprinkle it frequently with the fat of the
neck.
Dish the neck; clear the sauerkraut of any superfluous fat, and set it
round the piece of meat in spoonfuls; slightly pressing it in so doing.
1387—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Roast the neck of pork. Three-parts cook the Brussels sprouts;
completely drain them, and put them round the piece of meat, that they
may complete their cooking in its gravy and fat, being frequently
basted the while.
For this preparation it is well to roast the neck in an earthenware
dish, in which it may be served with its garnish—a much better plan
than that of transferring it to another dish.
1388—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH RED CABBAGE A LA FLAMANDE
Roast the neck of pork; dish it and surround it with a garnish of red
cabbages, prepared à la Flamande (No. 2098).
Sprinkle the garnish of vegetables with the gravy of the joint,
three-parts cleared of grease.
1389—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH STEWED APPLES
Roast the neck of pork and see that it is well done.
Meanwhile, peel and mince one lb. of apples; put them in a saucepan
with one oz. of sugar and a few tablespoonfuls of water; seal the lid
of the saucepan well down, so as to concentrate the steam inside, and
cook quickly. When about to serve, thoroughly work the apple purée with
a wire whisk, in order to smooth it. Dish the neck with its gravy,
three-parts cleared of grease, and serve the apple purée separately in
a timbale.
1390—FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA SOISSONNAISE
Roast the neck on a dish that may be sent to the table.
When it is three-parts done, set one quart of cooked and well-drained
haricot beans round it, and complete the cooking gently. Serve the dish
as it stands.
1391—BOILED SALTED PORK A L’ANGLAISE
Cook plainly in water three lbs. of shoulder, breast, or gammon of
bacon, and add thereto a garnish of vegetables as for boiled beef, and
six parsnips.
Serve the vegetables round the piece of meat, and send a pease-pudding
(prepared as directed below) separately.
_Pease-pudding_: put one lb. of a purée of yellow or green, split peas
into a basin, and mix therewith three oz. of melted or softened butter,
three eggs, a pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg.
Pour this purée into a pudding basin, and poach it in steam or in a
_bain-marie_.
This preparation may also be put into a buttered and flour-dusted
napkin; in which case, close the napkin up purse-fashion, tying it up
securely with string, and cook the pudding in the same stewpan with the
pork. This procedure is simpler than the first and quite as good.
Very often a purée prepared from split, yellow or green peas, is used
instead of the pudding given above.
1392—PORK PIE
Completely line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices
of raw ham, and prepare, for a medium-sized dish:—(1) one and
one-half lbs. of fresh pork in collops, seasoned with salt and pepper,
and sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of dry Duxelles (No. 223), a
pinch of parsley and another of chopped sage; (2) one and one-half lbs.
of raw, sliced potatoes, and one large, chopped onion.
Garnish the bottom of the dish with a litter of collops; cover with
potatoes and onions; spread another litter of collops, and begin again
in the same order. Add one-quarter pint of water; cover with a layer of
fine paste or puff-paste trimmings, which should be well sealed down
round the edges; _gild_ with beaten egg; streak the paste with the
prongs of a fork; make a slit in the centre of the covering of paste
for the escape of steam, and bake in a moderate oven for about two
hours.
=Fresh-pork Cutlets.=
1393—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA CHARCUTIERE
Season the cutlets; dip them in melted butter, and sprinkle them with
fine raspings. Grill them gently, and baste them from time to time.
Dish them in a circle; pour a Charcutière sauce in their midst, and
serve a timbale of potato purée separately.
_Charcutière sauce for eight or ten cutlets_: prepare one pint of
Robert sauce (No. 52) and mix with it, just before dishing up, two oz.
of gherkins, cut in short _julienne_ fashion or minced.
1394—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA FLAMANDE
Season the cutlets, and fry them on both sides in butter or fat.
Meanwhile, peel and slice some eating apples, allowing three oz. of
the latter for each cutlet, and put them in an earthenware dish. Set
upon them the half-fried cutlets; sprinkle with fat, and complete their
cooking, as well as that of the apples, in the oven.
Serve the dish as it stands.
1395—CÔTES DE PORC FRAIS A LA MILANAISE
Treat the cutlets _à l’anglaise_, but remember to add one quart of
grated Parmesan to the bread-crumbs. Cook them gently in butter.
Dish in a circle; set a milanaise garnish (No. 1258) in the centre, and
serve a tomato sauce separately.
1396—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE OR ROBERT SAUCE
Season and grill or _sauté_ the cutlets. Dish them in a circle, with
Piquante or Robert sauce in their midst.
N.B.—(1) Cutlets accompanied by either of the two above-mentioned
sauces, may be treated with melted butter and bread-crumbs and grilled
or _sautéd_; but, in this case, the sauce should be served separately.
(2) For cutlets with Piquante sauce, border the dish on which they are
served with gherkins, and send the sauce either separately or on the
dish.
(3) All the garnishes given under fresh neck of pork may accompany
grilled or _sautéd_ pork cutlets.
1397—SUCKING PIG
Stuffed or not stuffed, sucking pigs are always roasted whole, and the
essential point of the procedure is that they should be just done when
their skin is crisp and golden.
While cooking, they should be frequently basted with oil; the latter
being used in preference to any other fatty substance owing to the
greater crispness it gives to the skin of the sucking pig.
Serve a sauceboat of good gravy at the same time.
1398—ROAST STUFFED SUCKING PIG A L’ANGLAISE
For a sucking pig of medium weight, prepare the following
forcemeat:—Cook three lbs. of large onions with their skins, and let
them cool. This done, peel and finely chop them, and put them in a
basin with one lb. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, one lb. of
soaked and well-pressed bread-crumb, four oz. of parboiled and chopped
sage, two eggs, one oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg.
Mix the whole well, and put this stuffing inside the sucking pig. Sew
up the latter’s belly; put it on the spit, and roast as directed above.
Serve separately, either a timbale of apple sauce or of mashed
potatoes. Four oz. per lb. of selected raisins, washed and swelled in
tepid water, are sometimes combined with the apple sauce.
1399—ZAMPINO DE MODÈNE
Zampino, or stuffed leg of pork, is a product of Italian pork-butchery.
It is cooked like a ham, after having been tied in a napkin lest its
skin burst.
Served hot, it is accompanied by a Madeira or tomato sauce, a garnish
of boiled, braised, or _gratined_ cabbages; of French beans, or of
potato purée.
1400—ZAMPINO FROID
Zampino is served cold, alone or mixed with other meats; but it is
used more particularly as a hors-d’œuvre. For this purpose, cut it into
the thinnest possible slices.
1401—OREILLES A LA ROUENNAISE
After having singed and well cleaned the inside of the pig’s ears, cook
them in water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. of salt per quart,
together with a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. This done, cut
them across in suchwise as to have the end where the flesh is thickest
on one side, and the thinnest end on the other side of the strips.
Chop up the thick portion; cut the other into collops, and put the
whole into a saucepan with one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira.
Cook gently for thirty minutes. This done, add to the minced ears,
one and one-half lbs. of sausage meat and a pinch of chopped parsley.
Divide up the whole into portions, weighing three oz; wrap each portion
in a piece of pig’s caul, insert a collop of ear into the wrapping,
and give the latter the shape of ordinary _crépinettes_. Grill gently,
until the cooking is three-parts done; sprinkle with butter and
raspings, and complete the cooking of the _crépinettes_, colouring them
in so doing.
Dish in a circle, and serve a Madeira sauce at the same time.
1402—OREILLES A LA SAINTE MENEHOULD
Cook the ears as explained above, and let them cool.
Cut them in two, lengthwise; coat them with mustard; sprinkle them with
melted butter and raspings, and grill them gently.
Ears are usually served plain, but they may be accompanied by apple
sauce.
1403—PIEDS DE PORC TRUFFÉS
Truffled pig’s trotters may be bought already prepared; all that
remains to be done, therefore, is to grill them.
Sprinkle them with melted butter; grill them very gently, basting them
from time to time the while, and serve them with a Périgueux sauce.
1404—PIEDS DE PORC PANES
Sprinkle the pig’s trotters copiously with melted butter, and put them
on the grill, which should be very hot.
Grill them very gently, turning them with care; and serve them plain,
or with a tomato purée separately.
=Boudins.=
1405—BOUDIN BLANC ORDINAIRE
Chop and afterwards pound one-half lb. of very lean fresh pork, and
three-quarters lb. of fat fresh bacon. Add one and one-half oz. of foie
gras, and rub through a fine sieve.
Put this forcemeat into a basin, and finish it with two fresh eggs;
one and one-half oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter without
colouration; one-sixth pint of thick cream; one-half oz. of salt, a
pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg.
Mix the whole well; put it into the gut, without overfilling the
latter, and tie round with string at regular intervals. Now set the
boudins on a willow lattice, and plunge them into a receptacle full of
boiling water. From this moment keep the water at 203° F., and let the
boudins poach for twelve minutes. This done, withdraw them, and let
them cool.
Before serving them, grill them very gently, and, as a precautionary
measure, wrap them in buttered paper. Do not _cisel_ them, but prick
them with a pin.
Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time.
1406—BOUDINS BLANCS DE VOLAILLE
Pound separately one lb. of raw chicken fillets and three-quarters lb.
of fresh fat bacon.
Combine the two products in the mortar; pound again with the view of
thoroughly mixing them, and add three oz. of chopped onion, cooked
in butter without colouration, together with a little thyme and bay;
one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg.
Mix the whole well, and add four eggs, one by one, working the
forcemeat vigorously the while with the pestle.
Rub through a fine sieve; return the forcemeat to the mortar, and add
thereto, little by little, one pint of boiled and very cold milk.
Put the forcemeat into the gut; poach it in the _bain-marie_, and set
it to grill, observing the same precautions as in the preceding recipe.
Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time as the boudins.
1407—BOUDINS NOIRS
Make the following preparation, putting the various ingredients into
a basin:—One lb. of very fresh pork fat, cut into large dice, and
half-melted; one sixth pint of thick cream; two eggs; six oz. of
chopped onions, cooked in lard without colouration; two-thirds oz. of
salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little spice; a pinch of wild-thyme
leaves, and a leaf of bay, both chopped.
Mix the whole well with one pint of blood of pork, and put it into the
gut without over-filling it, for it should be borne in mind that the
preparation swells in poaching.
Set the boudins on willow lattices or baskets; plunge them into boiling
water, and, from that time, keep the latter at 203° F.
Let them poach for twenty minutes, and remember to prick all those
that, by rising to the surface, show they contain air, which might
burst their skins. When about to serve them, _cisel_ them on both
sides, and grill them very gently.
They are generally accompanied by a potato purée with cream.
1408—BOUDINS NOIRS A L’ANGLAISE
Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, given above,
and add to it three-quarters lb. of rice, cooked in consommé and kept
somewhat firm. Poach as before, and leave to cool. _Cisel_ the boudins,
and grill them over a moderate fire.
Serve very hot with an apple purée.
1409—BOUDINS NOIRS A LA FLAMANDE
Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, and add to it
three oz. of moist sugar, two oz. of raisins, and the same quantity of
currants, washed and swelled in lukewarm water.
Put the preparation into the gut, and poach in the usual way.
When about to serve, grill these boudins gently, after the manner of
black boudins, and send them to the table with a sugared apple sauce.
=Crépinettes and Sausages.=
1410—CRÉPINETTES TRUFFÉES
Add to two lbs. of very good sausage-meat, four oz. of chopped
truffles, and two tablespoonfuls of truffles cooking-liquor. Mix the
whole well; divide into portions weighing two and one-half oz., and
wrap each portion in a square of pig’s caul. Shape the _crépinettes_
thus formed rectangularly. Sprinkle with melted butter, and grill
gently.
Dish them in a circle; pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst, and serve
a potato purée with cream separately.
1411—CRÉPINETTES A LA CENDRILLON
Prepare the _crépinettes_ as above; wrap them in a double sheet of
buttered paper; over them set a heap of cinders covered with burning
embers, and keep the latter alive for a space of twenty minutes, when
the cooking operation should be completed.
Formerly, the above was the mode of procedure, but nowadays the
crépinettes are merely enveloped, each in an oval layer of paste. They
are then _gilded_, their tops are streaked, and, after having been laid
on a tray, they are baked in a warm oven for twenty minutes.
This done, they are dished on a napkin.
1412—SAUCISSES ANGLAISES
The most well-known of English sausages are those of Cambridge.
They are cooked like the French kind, and they are often served at
breakfasts as an adjunct to bacon. Sometimes, too, they serve as a
garnish to roast fowls, young turkeys, &c.
Their seasoning is often excessive.
1413—SAUCISSES AU VIN BLANC
_First Method._—Put the sausages in a well-buttered sautépan; poach
them gently in the oven, and dish them on thin crusts of bread fried in
butter.
For twelve sausages, swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white
wine; reduce this to half; add one-sixth pint of half-glaze sauce;
boil for a few minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with one and
one-half oz. of butter. Pour this sauce over the sausages.
_Second Method._—Stiffen the sausages in butter; add one-third pint
of white wine, and complete their poaching. Set them on fried crusts;
reduce the wine by two-thirds, and add thereto the yolk of one egg, a
few drops of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of pale melted meat-glaze,
and three oz. of butter. Pour the sauce over the sausages.
1414—SAUCISSES DE FRANCFORT ET DE STRASBOURG
Plunge the sausages into a saucepanful of boiling water, and then poach
them for no more than ten minutes; should they be allowed to cook for a
longer time, they would only lose their quality.
They may be served with a hors-d’œuvre dish of grated horse-radish,
and an apple sauce separately; but their proper adjunct is braised
sauerkraut.
=Ham.=
However deservedly pork may be praised, it could never have been
included among the preparations of first-class cookery (except
subsidiarily) had it not been for the culinary value of hams.
With the latter it triumphs, and, be they of Bayonne or York, of
Prague or Westphalia, no other joints enjoy more favour than these as
Relevés.
Though it is somewhat difficult to decide which one of the various
kinds of ham should be adopted, in my opinion that of Bohemia, known as
Prague ham, is best for a warm dish, and that of York for a cold dish.
The latter is also excellent when served hot, but, even so, for this
purpose it is inferior to the Prague kind, the delicacy of which is
incomparable.
Still, York ham ranks first in the opinion of many, for it should
be remembered that England has no rival in the preparation of
seasoned pork, and her famous bacon, the renown of which is enormous,
constitutes one of the greatest discoveries in the science of
gastronomy.
1415—HOT HAM—Its Preparation
York ham is the kind chiefly used.
After having soaked it in cold water for six hours, brush it and remove
the pelvic bone; put it into a stewpan of cold water, and set to boil.
This done, keep the water just simmering, that the ham may cook after
the poaching method.
There is no need of any seasoning or aromatic garnish. As often as
possible, leave the ham to cool in its cooking-liquor. If the ham is
to be braised, take it out of the water thirty minutes before it is
cooked. Skin it; clear it of any superfluous fat, and put it in a
braising-pan, just large enough to hold it, with two-thirds pint of
some such wine as Madeira, Port, Xeres, Chypre, &c. Select the wine in
accordance with the title of the dish on the menu.
Having thoroughly sealed down the lid of the pan, put it in the oven,
and continue the cooking of the ham gently for one hour, turning it
over from time to time during the operation. If it have to reach the
table whole, glaze it at the last moment.
Its usual adjunct is a light and highly seasoned half-glaze sauce,
combined with some of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.
1416—JAMBON A LA CHANOINESSE
Having poached the ham as explained above, braise it in white wine,
adding thereto three oz. of mushroom parings.
Dish and send separately a garnish of large, fresh noodles, cohered
with butter and a Soubise purée, and completed with a _julienne_ of
truffles.
Serve separately a half-glaze sauce, combined with the braising-liquor,
cleared of all grease and reduced.
1417—JAMBON A LA CHOUCROÛTE
Completely cook the ham by poaching; skin and trim it.
_If served whole_, send, separately, some braised sauerkraut and
potatoes, freshly cooked _à l’anglaise_. Serve a half-glaze sauce with
Rhine wine at the same time.
_If served already carved_, arrange the slices in a circle on a round
dish; put the sauerkraut in their midst, and border with the potatoes.
Serve, separately, the same sauce as before.
1418—JAMBON A LA MAILLOT
Poach the ham; braise it, and glaze it at the last moment. Set it on
a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged
in alternate heaps:—Carrots and turnips, cut to the shape of large,
elongated olives, cooked separately in consommé, and glazed; small
onions cooked in butter; braised and trimmed half-lettuces; peas and
French beans cohered with butter separately.
Serve apart a thickened gravy combined with some of the braising-liquor,
cleared of all grease.
1419—JAMBON A LA PRAGUE SOUS LA CENDRE
Poach the ham and drain it on a dish. Remove the skin and all the
black, outside parts. Prepare a piece of patty paste large enough
to enclose the ham. Besprinkle the surface of the ham with powdered
sugar; glaze quickly at the salamander, and place the ham (glazed side
undermost) on the layer of paste.
Draw the ends of the paste towards each other; seal them together,
with the help of a little moisture, in such wise as to enclose the ham
completely; turn the latter over, and put it on a tray with the sealed
side of the paste lying underneath. _Gild_ and streak, make a slit in
the middle of the paste for the escape of steam, and put the joint in
the oven.
Leave it there until the paste is dry and well coloured. After taking
the ham out of the oven, inject into it, through a prepared hole, a
large wineglassful of Port wine or Sherry. Stop up the hole with a
little pellet of paste; dish, and serve immediately.
Serve at the same time a garnish of Gnochi, spinach, or Soufflé au
Parmesan (No. 2295a).
The best adjunct to Prague ham is a very light glaze prepared with Port
wine, and buttered at the last minute.
1419a—JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA METTERNICH
Prepare a ham “sous la cendre” as described above.
Send to the table with it as many fine collops of foie-gras, tossed
in butter and each covered with a nice slice of truffle, as there are
diners. Send also a timbale of asparagus-heads.
The waiter in charge then puts a slice of ham, a collop of foie-gras,
and a tablespoonful of asparagus-heads on each plate and serves.
The sauce should be a Madeira flavoured with truffle essence.
1419b—JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA NORFOLK
Prepare a ham as in No. 1419. Serve each slice of it with one collop
of braised veal sweetbread and one tablespoonful of fresh peas _à la
paysanne_.
Send as an adjunct the braising-liquor of the veal sweetbread.
1420—VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR BRAISED HAM
The garnishes best suited to ham relevés are:—
_Spinach; new broad beans; braised lettuce; endives; fresh peas à la
paysanne._
_Noodles; Spaghetti; various Macaronis; Gnochi; Purées of fresh beans,
broad beans._
The most usual accompanying sauce is half-glaze with Madeira.
1421—JAMBON SOUFFLÉ
This is a variety of the ham _soufflés_ given hereafter. The
preparation used is the same, and it may be made either from raw or
from cooked ham.
After having completely boned it, but for the end bone, which must be
kept, cook the ham, and cool it.
Now cut it horizontally, one-half inch above its bone, from the
extremity of the end bone to the head of the latter. At the
last-mentioned point, make a vertical incision meeting and ending at
the first; remove the cushion of ham, which should by now be quite
separated from the rest of the joint, and put aside for some future
purpose.
All that remains of the ham, therefore, is a thick piece adhering to
the end-bone. Carefully trim this piece, and surround it with a strong
band of buttered paper, tied on by means of string, the purpose of
which is to hold in the soufflé.
This done, put a sufficient quantity of soufflé de Jambon (described
hereafter) on the remaining meat of the ham to reconstruct it entirely.
Smooth the surface of the preparation with the flat of a knife (dipped
in cold water), and so finish off the contour of the ham. Decorate
according to fancy; place the dish containing the ham on a saucepanful
of boiling water, and put the two in the oven with the view of
obtaining the maximum amount of steam, which latter helps to poach the
_soufflé_. This _souffléd_ ham may be poached just as well in a steamer.
When the preparation is properly poached, remove the band of paper;
dish the ham, and send one of the garnishes or sauces given for braised
ham separately.
1422—SOUFFLÉS AU JAMBON
Ham _soufflés_ are prepared after two recipes; in the first, cooked
ham is used, and in the second the ham is raw. This last procedure is
derived from _mousseline_ forcemeat, and, inasmuch as the preparation
resulting from it is less flimsy than that of the first, it is
preferred when a large number of people have to be served.
1423—THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLÉ WITH COOKED HAM
Finely pound one lb. of lean, cooked ham, and add thereto, one after
the other, three tablespoonfuls of very cold Béchamel sauce. Rub
through a fine sieve; put the resulting purée into a sautépan, and
finish with one-quarter pint of very creamy and boiling Béchamel sauce,
flavoured with ham essence; four egg-yolks, and the whites of six eggs,
beaten to a stiff froth.
This preparation may be combined with three oz. of grated Parmesan, and
the two flavours will be found to blend very agreeably.
Prepared in this way, it is particularly well suited to the “Jambon
Soufflé,” the recipe whereof is given above (No. 1421).
1424—THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLÉ WITH RAW HAM
Following the quantities given under “Farce mousseline” (No. 195),
make the _soufflé_ preparation, and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of
reduced and very cold Béchamel sauce per lb. of raw ham.
Keep the forcemeat somewhat stiff, and finish it with the whites of
four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, per lb. of ham.
1425—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA
Make the _soufflé_ preparation after one of the methods given above.
Spread it in layers in a buttered timbale, alternating the layers of
_soufflé_ with others of asparagus-heads cohered with butter. Smooth
the surface to the shape of a dome; decorate with a fine slice of
truffle, and cook in a moderate oven, of a temperature suited to this
kind of preparation. Serve the _soufflé_ as soon as it is ready. If it
be small, spread only one layer of asparagus-heads in the middle of it.
If it be large, spread two or three layers of asparagus-heads.
1426—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON CARMEN
Add to the selected one of the two _soufflé_ preparations—either will
do—for one lb. of ham, the purée of one-half lb. of pressed tomatoes,
cooked in butter with one half-capsicum, rubbed through a sieve and
very much reduced.
Dish the _soufflé_ in a buttered timbale; sprinkle the surface with
a pinch of red capsicum, cut in fine _julienne_ fashion, and cook as
described above.
1427—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON GASTRONOME
Dish the selected ham _soufflé_ preparation in layers in a buttered
timbale, and between each layer of it spread a litter of noodles,
tossed in butter.
Sprinkle the surface with chopped truffles; set a ball of truffle well
in the centre of the _soufflé_, and cook in the usual way.
1428—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON MILANAISE
Dish the ham _soufflé_ preparation in a buttered timbale, and spread it
in alternate layers with a fine garnish à la Milanaise (No. 1258).
Deck the surface with small pieces of poached macaroni, fried in
butter; sprinkle with grated cheese, and cook the _soufflé_ in a
moderate oven.
1429—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON PERIGOURDINE
Dish the soufflé preparation in layers in a buttered timbale, and
between each layer spread a litter of truffle slices. Besprinkle the
surface with chopped truffles, and cook the _soufflé_ in the usual way.
1430—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES CHAUDES DE JAMBON
_Mousses_ and _Mousselines_ are made from the same preparation as
“Farce mousseline de jambon,” in pursuance of the general principles
given under No. 195.
The need of differentiating the terms arises from the fact that
_mousses_ are poached in a mould the contents of which are sufficient
for a number of people, whereas _mousselines_ are spoon-moulded
quenelles, shaped like eggs.
In the preparation of “Farce mousseline de jambon” it is necessary to
allow, in the salt seasoning, for the amount of salting the ham has
already received.
If the meat of the ham is not very red, the colour of the forcemeat may
be intensified by means of a little vegetable red, in order that it may
be of a distinct pink shade.
1431—TREATMENT AND ACCOMPANIMENT OF HAM MOUSSE
Put the forcemeat in a deep border-mould, somewhat like a Charlotte,
and poach it under cover in a _bain-marie_.
That the poaching may be regular, keep in water at a constant
temperature of 205° or 208° Fahrenheit, and allow forty-five minutes
for the operation in the case of a _mousse_ made in a quart mould.
The preparation is seen to be cooked when it swells and rises in the
mould.
As soon as this occurs, withdraw the latter from the _bain-marie_;
let it stand for five minutes, that its contents may settle; turn it
upside-down on a dish, and wait two minutes before removing the mould.
In any case, do not take off the mould until the liquid which has
drained from it, all round the dish, has been soaked up. Ham _mousses_
are chiefly accompanied by Suprême sauce, or Veloutés with curry or
paprika; sometimes, too, a highly-seasoned and buttered half-glaze
sauce, with Madeira, Port, or Marsala may be used. The most suitable
garnishes for ham _mousses_ are those I have already given for Ham.
1432—TREATMENT AND POACHING OF HAM MOUSSELINES
As I have already stated, _mousselines_, like quenelles, are moulded
with a spoon.
They may also be laid, by means of a piping-bag, on the bottom of
the well-buttered sautépan in which they are to be poached; they are
shaped like meringues, even or grooved, and, in either case, they are
decorated with lozenges, crescents, or discs, &c., of ham or truffle.
Having carried out the selected method of preparation, cover them with
boiling water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. per quart, and
poach them for from eighteen to twenty minutes, taking care to keep the
water at a constant temperature of 208° F. These _mousselines_ may also
be poached dry in a steamer or in a drying stove.
1433—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA
Decorate the _mousselines_, prepared according to one of the two
methods above described, with one lozenge of ham and another of
truffle. Poach them; drain them well, and dish them in the form of a
crown. Cover them with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with ham essence,
and combined with two oz. of grated Parmesan per pint of the sauce, and
glaze quickly.
After taking the _mousselines_ out of the oven, set in their midst a
heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
1434—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA FLORENTINE
Spread a layer of shredded spinach, fried in butter, on a dish.
Upon it set the poached and well-drained _mousselines_; cover them with
the same sauce as that prescribed for the “Mousselines Alexandra,” and
glaze them quickly.
1435—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA HONGROISE
Poach the _mousselines_, the forcemeat of which must be flavoured with
paprika. Drain them; dish them in a circle; cover them with Hongroise
sauce, and glaze them quickly.
On withdrawing the dish from the oven, set a fine heap of baked
cauliflowers with cheese in the middle of it.
1436—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON AUX PETITS POIS
Proceed exactly as described under No. 1433, but substitute for the
asparagus-heads a garnish of very small peas cohered with butter.
=Cold Ham.=
1437—JAMBON FROID A LA GELÉE
When ham is to be dished cold, it should, if possible, be allowed to
cool in its cooking-liquor, except when it has to be boned. In the
latter case, take it out as soon as it is cooked; incise it underneath,
following the edge of the cushion; detach and remove the bones.
Now roll up the ham; bind it tightly in a piece of linen, and cool it
under pressure.
Whether boned or unboned, skin it when it is cold; remove some of its
fat, and sprinkle it with cold, melted aspic until the latter covers it
evenly.
Dish it up; fix a frill to it, and surround it with fine aspic dice.
1438—JAMBON SOUFFLÉ FROID
Proceed exactly as in No. 1421, but substitute for the _soufflé_
preparation therein described the cold ham _mousse_ below.
1439—MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON
_The Preparation of the Mousse._—Finely pound one lb. of very lean,
cooked ham; add to it one-third pint of cold Velouté, and rub through a
fine sieve.
Put the resulting purée into a basin; season it; work it on ice for a
few minutes, and mix therewith, little by little, one-quarter pint of
melted aspic. Finally combine two-thirds pint of half-beaten cream with
it.
The _mousse_ may be moulded, either in an aspic-_clothed_ mould,
decorated with truffles, as explained under No. 956, or in small
_cassolettes_, lined with a thin strip of paper inside their brims,
after the manner of small, cold _soufflés_.
As the dishing and serving of _mousses_ are always the same, the reader
is begged to refer to those recipes dealing with the question.
1440—MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON A L’ALSACIENNE
Take a deep, square dish and garnish it, half-full, with fine, ham
_mousse_. Even the surface of this layer of _mousse_, and, when it has
set, arrange upon it some shells, raised by means of a spoon dipped
in hot water, from a foie-gras Parfait. As soon as this is done, pour
over the foie-gras shells, a sufficient quantity to cover them of
half-melted succulent chicken aspic with Madeira, and let this jelly
set.
When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.
1441—MOUSSE DE JAMBON AU BLANC DE POULET
Garnish a deep, square dish with some ham _mousse_. When the latter
has set, arrange thereon the _suprêmes_ of a very white, poached fowl.
These _suprêmes_, cut into regular collops, should be coated with a
white chaud-froid sauce.
Cover with aspic, as directed under “Mousse à l’Alsacienne,” and serve.
N.B.—If desired, the collops need not be coated with chaud-froid sauce,
but, in this case, they should be covered with aspic.
1442—MOUSSELINES FROIDES DE JAMBON
These _mousselines_ are made from the same preparation as that used for
the _mousse_, and, but for the basic ingredient, which is not the same,
they are treated after the manner described under “Petites Mousses de
Homard” (No. 958). To avoid needless repetition, therefore, the reader
will kindly substitute the word ham for lobster in the recipe just
referred to.