Raise the _suprêmes_ of two small chickens; poach them in butter and
lemon juice, and coat them with Suprême sauce.
Dish them around a low, very cold cushion of bread, placed on the dish
at the last moment. Upon the cushion, quickly set a dozen shelled
oysters, which should have been kept in ice for at least two hours
before dishing.
Serve very quickly in order that the _suprêmes_ may be very hot and the
oysters very cold. Send a Suprême sauce separately.
1624—TURBAN DE FILETS DE POULET
Take the required number of fillets, which is determined by the size of
the mould to be used. Flatten these fillets out somewhat thinly, and
trim them neatly on both sides.
With these fillets, line a buttered _savarin-mould_; setting a row of
thin slices of truffle between each of the fillets, and allowing the
latter to hang over the edge of the mould. Over the fillets spread a
layer of _mousseline_ forcemeat, two-thirds in. thick.
Three-parts fill the remaining space with a large tongue, truffles and
mushrooms _salpicon_, cohered by means of a reduced Allemande sauce.
Cover this _salpicon_ with forcemeat, so as to fill the mould, and then
draw the overlapping ends of the fillets across the forcemeat.
Set to poach in the _bain-marie_ for about forty minutes; and, upon
withdrawing the mould, let it stand for five minutes, that its contents
may settle. Turn out upon a round dish; pour a Toulousaine garnish (see
Poularde No. 1524) in the middle, and surround the turban with a thread
of Allemande sauce.
1625—MIGNONNETTES DE POULET
Take the required number of small, minion fillets of pullet: trim
them; make six incisions in each, and half-insert into each of these
incisions alternate thin roundels of truffle and tongue.
Set these minion fillets on a buttered dish, and shape them like rings.
Trim and indent the edges of as many artichoke-bottoms as there
are minion fillets, and heat them in butter. Garnish these
artichoke-bottoms, dome-fashion, with a very white and somewhat stiff
chicken purée. Sprinkle the minion fillets with a little mushroom
cooking-liquor, and poach them in the oven for from five to six minutes.
Set the artichoke-bottoms in a circle on a round dish, and set a minion
fillet upon each.
Serve a very delicate Suprême sauce, separately.
1626—NONNETTES DE POULET AGNÈS SOREL
Truss twelve ortolans for entrées, and stiffen them in butter for a
moment.
Raise the fillets of twelve spring chickens; trim them; flatten them
slightly and pair them off, putting the edges of one on the other, that
a larger surface may be obtained.
In the middle of these joined _suprêmes_ of chicken, put an ortolan;
wrap it in them, and tie them round once or twice with string, that
they may keep the shape of a _paupiette_.
Set these _paupiettes_ in a shallow sautépan, and, five minutes
before serving, sprinkle them with four oz. of boiling butter; salt
moderately, and cook in a fierce oven.
After having removed the string, set each nonnette on a square,
hollowed _crouton_ of bread-crumb, fried in butter, and coated inside
with foie-gras purée. Coat moderately with a light chicken glaze,
finished with butter, and squeeze a drop of lemon juice on each
nonnette.
1627—URSULINES DE NANCY
Prepare some _barquette_ crusts.
Mould some chicken forcemeat into large, round, regular quenelles, and
poach them in some white consommé, in time for them to be ready when
the Ursulines are being dished.
A few moments before serving, garnish the _barquette_ crusts with
foie-gras purée, thinned with a little good half-glaze, flavoured with
port or sherry wine. In the middle of each garnished _barquette_, set
a well-drained _mousseline_ quenelle; deck each quenelle with a thin
and wide slice of truffle; set a small heap of asparagus-heads, cohered
with butter, at either end of the _barquettes_, that is to say, on
either side of the quenelle; and slightly coat the latter with chicken
glaze, finished with butter.
Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing some of the same chicken
glaze with butter.
1628—FILETS DE POULET A LA SAINT-GERMAIN
Season the fillets, dip them in melted butter and roll them in
bread-crumbs; grill them gently, each on a sheet of oiled paper, and
sprinkle with clarified butter during the operation.
Dish the grilled fillets, and serve at the same time:—(1) a Béarnaise
sauce; (2) a timbale containing a purée of foie gras with cream.
1629—FILETS DE POULET MIREILLE
Prepare a garnish as for No. 1365; _i.e._, sliced, raw potatoes and
artichoke-bottoms, set in a small earthenware dish and cooked as
“Pommes Anna.”
_Sauté_ the fillets in butter at the last moment; put them on the
garnish, and sprinkle them with nut-brown butter.
SPRING CHICKENS (POULETS DE GRAINS)
Spring chickens are usually either grilled or prepared “_en casserole_”
in accordance with one or another of the many recipes applicable to
them.
1630—POULET DE GRAINS A LA BELLE-MEUNIÈRE
Stuff the chicken with four sliced chickens’ livers and three oz. of
raw, quartered mushrooms, slightly tossed in butter. Slip five or six
fine slices of truffle under the skin of the breast; truss the chicken
as for an entrée, and brown it in butter.
This done, put it into an oval _cocotte_, with two oz. of butter, four
rectangles of _blanched_ breast of pork, and three oz. of raw quartered
mushrooms, quickly tossed in butter beforehand.
Cook in the oven, under cover, and add two tablespoonfuls of veal
gravy, just before serving.
1631—POULET DE GRAINS A LA BERGÈRE
Fry in butter four oz. of _blanched_ breast of pork, cut into dice,
and one-half lb. of small, whole mushrooms. Drain, and set to brown in
the same butter, the chicken stuffed with a half-onion and three oz.
of mushrooms, chopped and fried in butter, and mixed with three oz. of
butter and a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley.
When the chicken is well coloured or _gilded_, put the bacon and the
mushrooms round it; swill with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce by
two-thirds; add four tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and complete the
cooking of the chicken in the oven.
Set it on a round dish; thicken the cooking-liquor with a piece of
_manied_ butter, the size of a hazel-nut, or a little arrow-root; pour
the sauce and the garnish round the chicken, and surround it with a
border of freshly-fried straw potatoes.
1632—POULET DE GRAINS BONNE FEMME
Fry in butter four oz. of breast of fresh or salted pork, cut into
slices and _blanched_. Drain; colour the chicken in the same fat, and
put it in an oval _cocotte_ with the slices of bacon.
With the same fat, fry in a frying-pan two-thirds lb. of potatoes cut
to the shape of corks and divided into roundels; put these round the
chicken, and set to cook in the oven, under cover.
When about to serve, sprinkle the fowl with a few tablespoonfuls of
veal gravy.
Serve the preparation in the _cocotte_.
1633—POULET DE GRAINS EN CASSEROLE
_Poële_ the chicken with butter in an earthenware saucepan, and baste
it often the while. When about to serve, clear of all grease, and add a
tablespoonful of veal gravy.
This chicken is served plain, without any garnish.
1634—POULET DE GRAINS EN COCOTTE
Brown the chicken in butter, in a _cocotte_, and under cover.
When it is half-done, surround it with two oz. of frizzled pieces of
fresh or salted pork cut in dice, twelve small onions partly cooked in
butter, and twenty small potatoes, the size and shape of olives.
Complete the cooking of the whole together, and, when about to serve,
sprinkle with a little veal gravy.
1635—POULET DE GRAINS CLAMART
Brown the chicken in butter; half-cook it, and put it in a _cocotte_
with one-half pint of half-cooked peas à la Française (No. 2193), the
cooking-liquor of which should be very short. Complete the cooking of
the whole, together, and serve the preparation as it stands, without
cohering the peas.
1636—POULET DE GRAINS GRILLÉ DIABLE
Truss the chicken as for an entrée; split it open lengthwise along the
middle of the back; flatten it with a butcher’s beater, and remove as
many bones as possible. Season it; sprinkle it with melted butter, and
half-cook it in the oven.
This done, coat it thoroughly with mustard strengthened by means of
cayenne; sprinkle copiously with bread-crumbs; press upon the latter
with the flat of a knife, that they may adhere to the mustard; sprinkle
a little melted butter over the bird, and complete the latter’s cooking
gently on the grill.
Set on a round dish, bordered with thin slices of lemon, and serve a
Devilled Sauce Escoffier separately.
1637—POULET DE GRAINS, GRILLÉ A L’ANGLAISE (Spatchcock)
Split the chicken open, laterally, proceeding from the extremity of the
belly to the wing-joints. Open it without separating the two halves,
flatten it so as to break the joints and the bones, and remove the
fragments of the latter with great care.
Fix the wings by means of a skewer; sprinkle the chicken with melted
butter, season it, and half-cook it in the oven.
This done, sprinkle it with bread-crumbs and melted butter, and
complete its cooking on the grill. Set it on a round dish, bordered
with gherkins, and serve it as it stands.
1638—POULET DE GRAINS AUX FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS
Brown the chicken in butter, and put it in a _cocotte_ with five
fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, sliced while raw, and tossed in butter.
Complete its cooking gently in the oven, and, when about to serve, add
a tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of lemon juice.
1639—POULET DE GRAINS A L’HOTELIERE
Bone the chicken’s breast; stuff it with one-half lb. of good
sausage-meat, and truss it as for an entrée. Brown it with butter in an
earthenware saucepan, and put it in the oven.
When it is two-thirds done, add to it four oz. of quartered mushrooms,
_sautéd_ in butter, complete its cooking, and, when about to serve,
finish it with three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.
1640—POULET DE GRAINS A LA KATOFF
Split the chicken open along the back, and half-cook it in the oven as
in No. 1636. This done, complete its cooking on the grill.
Meanwhile, mould on a round, buttered dish a sort of _galette_ of
Duchesse potatoes (No. 2212), one inch thick. _Gild_, and colour in the
oven.
Dish the grilled chicken on this _galette_, and surround the latter
with a thread of strong veal gravy.
1641—POULET DE GRAINS A LA LIMOUSINE
Stuff the chicken with one-half lb. of good sausage-meat, combined
with two oz. of chopped mushrooms fried in butter. Put the chicken in
a _cocotte_ with one oz. of butter and six rectangles of _blanched_
breast of bacon, and cook gently in the oven.
When about to serve, add two or three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.
Send, separately, six fine chestnuts cooked in consommé.
1642—POULET DE GRAINS MASCOTTE
Brown the chicken in butter, and cook it “_en casserole_” with four oz.
of potatoes the size and shape of olives and tossed in butter.
When the chicken is almost cooked, put it in a _cocotte_ with the
potatoes all round, two tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and two oz. of
sliced truffles set upon it.
Cover the _cocotte_; put the chicken in the front of the oven for ten
minutes, and serve it as it stands.
1643—POULET DE GRAINS AUX MORILLES
Prepare this chicken like the one “_en casserole_,” and surround it
with one-half lb. of morels, tossed in butter for a moment. Complete
the cooking under cover, and, when about to serve, finish with one
tablespoonful of veal gravy.
1644—POULET DE GRAINS SOUVAROFF
Proceed exactly as explained under No. 1520, but reduce the garnish by
half.
1645—POULET DE GRAINS TARTARE
Proceed as for No. 1636, but serve a Tartare sauce at the same time.
CHICKS (POUSSINS)
The most perfect example of this class would be the Hamburg chick, were
it not for the fact that it is too often kept in confinement and fed on
fish, which gives a disagreeable flavour to the young bird.
When it is bred rationally, however, this chick is a great delicacy.
1646—POUSSINS CENDRILLON
Open the chicks along the back, and brown them in butter. This done,
season them with salt and cayenne, and put them between two layers of
pork forcemeat. Wrap them in very soft pig’s caul. Dip them in melted
butter; roll them in bread-crumbs, and grill them gently for twenty or
twenty-five minutes.
Dish, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.
1647—POUSSINS A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of white Piedmont truffles,
pounded with an equal weight of very fresh pork fat. Now truss them as
for an entrée; string them and fry them in butter over a fierce fire.
At the end of ten minutes put them in a _cocotte_; partly surround and
cover them with rizotto à la Piémontaise, and complete the cooking in
the oven with lid off.
A few minutes before serving, sprinkle the rizotto with grated
Parmesan; glaze; and, at the last minute, sprinkle with nut-brown
butter.
1648—POUSSINS A LA POLONAISE
Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of _gratin_ forcemeat,
two-thirds oz. of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, one-third oz. of
butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Truss as for entrées; string;
quickly fry the chicks in butter in a very hot oven; put them in a
_cocotte_, and complete their cooking in the oven.
At the last moment sprinkle them with a few drops of lemon juice and
nut-brown butter, combined with one oz. of bread-crumbs per four oz. of
butter.
1649—POUSSINS A LA TARTARE
Proceed exactly as for “Poulet à la Tartare.”
1650—TOURTE DE POUSSINS A LA PAYSANNE
Prepare a round layer of short paste, ten inches in diameter. Upon this
paste spread two-thirds lb. of sausage-meat, combined with five oz. of
dry Duxelles, taking care to leave a margin two inches wide of bare
paste all round.
Upon this coating of forcemeat set ten half-chicks, stiffened in
butter; sprinkle two-thirds lb. of chopped mushrooms, _sautéd_ in
butter, over them; spread a second coating of sausage-meat and Duxelles
over the whole; cover with a very thin slice of bacon, and close the
whole with a layer of paste a little larger than the underlying one,
the edges of which should have been moistened. Seal the two edges, and
pleat regularly; _gild_; streak; make a slit in the top, and bake in a
moderate oven for about forty minutes.
When taking the tourte out of the oven, pour into it, through the slit
in its cover, a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.
1651—POUSSINS A LA VIENNOISE
Cut the chicks each into four pieces; season them; dredge them; dip
them in beaten egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs.
A few minutes before serving, put them in hot fat; drain them, and dish
them in pyramid form on a folded napkin. Surround with fried parsley
and sections of lemon, and serve very hot.
=Various Preparations of Fowl=
1652—ABATIS AUX NAVETS
Fry one-half lb. of _blanched_ breast of pork, cut into dice, in
butter. Drain, and fry in the same sautépan three lbs. of giblets, cut
into pieces (all except the livers, which are only added one-quarter
hour before dishing). Sprinkle with two and one-half oz. of flour;
mix the latter with the pieces, and cook it in the oven for seven or
eight minutes; moisten with three pints of white stock. Season with a
pinch of pepper; add a faggot and a crushed, garlic clove; set to boil,
stirring the while; cover, and place in a somewhat hot oven, that the
preparation may boil gently.
At the end of thirty-five minutes transfer the pieces to another
saucepan; put back the bacon; add twenty-four small onions, tossed in
butter, one lb. of turnips shaped like elongated olives and glazed, and
strain the sauce over the whole.
Complete the cooking gently, and serve in a timbale.
N.B.—With the same procedure, the giblets may be prepared with peas;
with mixed, new vegetables; à la _chipolata_, &c.
1653—GIBLET PIE
Fry the giblets, cut into pieces, in butter; sprinkle them moderately
with flour; cook the latter, and moisten with just sufficient consommé
to make a clear sauce which will just cover the pieces. Three-parts
cook, and leave to cool.
This done, pour the whole into a pie-dish; cover with a layer of
puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste, stuck to
the edge of the dish; _gild_; streak, and bake in a moderately warm
oven for from twenty-five to thirty minutes.
1654—BALLOTINES ET JAMBONNEAUX
These preparations are useful for disposing of any odd legs of fowls,
the other parts of which have been already used. The legs are boned
and stuffed, and the skin, which should be purposely left long if this
preparation be contemplated, is then sewn up. The stuffing used varies
according to the kind of dish in preparation, but good sausage-meat is
most commonly used.
Ballotines or Jambonneaux are braised, and they may be accompanied by
any garnish suited to fowl.
If they be prepared for serving cold, coat them with jelly, or cover
them with brown or white chaud-froid sauce, and garnish them according
to fancy.
=Boudins et Quenelles de Volaille=
1655—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE A LA RICHELIEU
Take the required amount of chicken forcemeat, prepared with panada
and cream, and divide it into three-oz. portions. Roll these portions
into sausage-form, and open them so as to stuff them with some white
chicken-meat, truffle and mushroom _salpicon_, cohered with reduced
Allemande sauce. These quenelles may also be moulded in little,
rectangular cases, used in biscuit-making, as follows:—Line the
bottom and sides of the moulds, which should be well buttered, with
a thickness of one-third inch of forcemeat; garnish the centre with
_salpicon_; cover with forcemeat up to the edges, and smooth with the
blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water.
Whichever way they are made, however, the boudins are poached like
quenelles, and are afterwards drained on a piece of linen. They are
then dipped in beaten egg and rolled in bread-crumbs, and, finally,
gently coloured in clarified butter, that their inside may get heated
at the same time.
Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin, and serve a Périgueux sauce
separately.
1656—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE SOUBISE
Prepare the boudins with some forcemeat as above, but replace the
_salpicon_ inside by a very reduced and cold truffled Soubise purée.
Poach, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread-crumbs, and colour as
before in clarified butter.
Serve a clear Soubise separately.
1657—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE MORLAND
Mould some portions of somewhat firm chicken _mousseline_ forcemeat
into the shape of oval quenelles, three oz. in weight. Dip them in
beaten egg; roll them in finely minced truffle, and press lightly on
the latter with the blade of a knife, in order that it may combine with
the egg.
Poach gently in clarified butter, under cover, that the forcemeat may
be well cooked.
Dish in a circle, and in the middle pour a mushroom purée.
1658—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE D’UZÈS
Line the bottom and sides of some oval buttered quenelle moulds
with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream. Garnish the
middle with a mince of the white of chicken meat cohered with reduced
Allemande sauce, and cover with forcemeat.
Poach the quenelles in good time; drain them on a piece of linen; set
them in a circle on a round dish, and coat with Aurore sauce. Garnish
the centre of the circle with a fine _Julienne_ of truffles.
1659—CAPILOTADE DE VOLAILLE
Prepare an Italienne sauce, combined with cooked, sliced mushrooms. Add
to this sauce some thin slices of cold fowl remains, and heat without
allowing to boil at all.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the
preparation.
1660—CHICKEN PIE
Cut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassée; season the pieces, and
sprinkle them with three finely-chopped onions, one and one-half oz. of
chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.
Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of veal; set
the pieces of fowl inside, putting the legs undermost; add five oz. of
thin slices of bacon; the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into two;
and moisten sufficiently to three-parts cover with chicken consommé.
Cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a
strip of paste stuck to the edges of the pie-dish; _gild_; streak; make
a slit in the middle of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for one
and one-half hours.
When taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of
strong gravy into it.
1661—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ
In order to prepare cocks’ combs and kidneys, they should be first set
to soak in cold water for a few hours.
If they are fresh, they should be put in a saucepan of cold water; the
latter should be made lukewarm, and they should then be drained and
rubbed in a towel that their skins may be removed. This done, they are
trimmed, and kept in fresh water, which ought to be frequently changed
until they are quite white.
They may then be cooked in a very light Blanc (No. 167).
The kidneys are merely soaked in cold water for a few hours, and put to
cook with the combs a few minutes before the latter are ready.
Cocks’ combs and kidneys are mostly used as garnish; nevertheless, they
also serve in the preparation of special dishes, for which I shall now
give a few recipes.
1662—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQ A LA GRECQUE
About twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint of pilaff
rice, combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice, and a very little
saffron.
Also prepare ten roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged, and fried
in oil just before dishing. The moment the rice is cooked, add thereto
twenty-four very fresh cocks’ kidneys, frizzled in butter, and twelve
fine _blanched_ cocks’ combs, _poëled_ after the manner of lambs’
sweetbreads.
Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant roundels in a
circle on the rice, and serve instantly.
1663—DESIRS DE MASCOTTE
Put three oz. of butter in a vegetable-pan, and fry it nut-brown.
Add to this butter twenty-four fine cocks’ kidneys (it is essential
that these should be fresh); season them with salt, pepper, and a
little red pepper, and cook them for from five to six minutes, which
should prove sufficient.
Meanwhile, prepare twelve _croûtons_ of bread-crumbs, one-third inch
thick, stamped out with a round cutter two-thirds inch in diameter. Fry
these _croûtons_ in butter at the last minute.
Put four fine, very black truffles, cut into somewhat thick slices,
into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce; add the
kidneys, drained of their butter, as well as the fried crusts, one and
one-half oz. of very best butter, and a few drops of lemon juice, and
roll the saucepan gently, that the butter may thoroughly combine with
the sauce.
Dish immediately in a very hot, silver timbale, and serve instantly.
1664—ROGNONS DE COQ FARCIS POUR ENTRÉES FROIDES, GARNITURES, ETC.
Choose some fine, cooked kidneys, and cut them into two lengthwise.
Trim them slightly underneath, that they may lie steady.
Stuff them by means of a piping-bag with a highly seasoned purée of
foie gras, or of ham, of the white of a chicken and truffles, combined
with an equal weight of fresh butter.
Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, according to the
requirements; set them in a low timbale, and cover them with light
jelly.
They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded with jelly,
and used as a garnish for cold fowls.
1664a—CHICKEN CROQUETTES AND CUTLETS
The croquettes and cutlets with which we are now concerned are made
up of exactly the same constituents, and only differ in the matter of
shape, the croquettes, as a rule, being shaped either like corks or
rectangles; sometimes, too, like quoits; whereas the cutlets, as their
name implies, are made in cutlet-shaped moulds.
The preparation from which they are made is as follows:—One lb. of
the meat of a poached or roast fowl, thoroughly cleared of all skin,
cartilage, and bones, and cut into small regular dice[1]; six oz. of
cooked mushrooms; an equal amount of salted ox-tongue or York ham, and
four oz. of truffles. Cut these various products like the chicken, and
mix them therewith; then add one-half pint of very reduced and finished
Allemande sauce to the whole; set the preparation to dry for a few
minutes over an open fire; this done, remove it from the latter, and
thicken it with the yolks of four raw eggs, which should be quickly
mixed with it. Now pour the preparation into a very clean, buttered
tray, and butter its surface, lest a crust form thereon during the
cooling.
When the preparation is quite cold, transfer it, by means of a spoon,
in pieces weighing about two oz., to a flour-dusted mixing board. Make
the croquettes and cutlets about the desired shape; dip them into
an _anglaise_, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Definitely shape
them; plunge them into very hot fat; keep them therein till they have
acquired a fine golden colour; drain them, and dish them in a crown on
a napkin, with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.
Croquettes and cutlets may be garnished as fancy suggests, but the
accompaniment should always be served separately. Tomato and Périgueux
sauces are the most commonly used, and the best garnishes for the
purpose are all the purées, peas, French beans, and _jardinières_.
[Footnote 1: When prepared as directed above, all meats, whether of
poultry, game, fish, crustacea or mollusca, &c., may serve in the
preparation of croquettes or cutlets.]
=Chickens’ Livers (Foies de Volaille)=
1665—BROCHETTES DE FOIES DE VOLAILLE
Collop the livers; quickly stiffen them in butter, and then treat them
exactly as explained under “Brochettes de Rognons” (No. 1343).
1666—FOIES DE VOLAILLE ET ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU VIN ROUGE
Proceed according to the recipe given under “Rognons Sautés au
Champagne” (No. 1333), using sliced chickens’ livers and cocks’ kidneys
in equal quantities, and substituting excellent red wine for the
Champagne.
N.B.—Chickens’ livers are also prepared _sautés_ chasseur; _sautés_
fines herbes, au _gratin_; en coquilles; en pilaw, &c. Refer to sheep’s
kidneys for these preparations.
1667—FRICASSÉE DE POULET A L’ANCIENNE
For a fricassée cut up the chicken as for a _sauté_, but divide the
legs into two. The procedure is exactly that of “Fricassée de Veau”
(No. 1276)—that is to say, the chicken is cooked in the sauce.
About ten minutes before serving, add ten small onions, cooked in white
consommé, and ten small grooved mushroom-heads. Finish at the last
moment with a pinch of chopped parsley and chives. Thicken the sauce
at the last moment with the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of
cream, and one oz. of best butter.
Dish in a timbale, and surround the fricassée with little flowerets of
puff-paste, baked without colouration.
1668—FRICASSÉE DE POULET AUX ÉCREVISSES
Prepare the fricassée as above, and add thereto as garnish ten small,
cooked mushrooms, and the shelled tails of twelve crayfish, cooked as
for bisque. When about to serve, finish the fricassée with two and
one-half oz. of crayfish butter, made from the crayfishes’ carcasses
and their cooking-liquor rubbed through linen.
Dish in a timbale.
1669—FRITÔT OU MARINADE DE VOLAILLE
Cut some boiled or roast fowl into slices, and _marinade_ these in a
few drops of oil, lemon juice, and some chopped herbs for one-quarter
hour. Boiled fowl is preferable, in that the greater porousness of its
meat facilitates the percolation of the _marinade_ through it.
A few minutes before serving, dip the slices into very light batter,
and put them into very hot fat. Drain, the moment the batter is well
_gilded_; dish on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce
separately.
N.B.—Nowadays Fritôt and Marinade of fowl are identically the same
dish, but formerly they differed in this, namely, that the Fritôt was
prepared from cooked fowl, and the Marinade from pieces of uncooked
fowl which were _marinaded_ beforehand.
1670—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE
Both these preparations have for basic ingredient the mousseline
forcemeat of No. 195. They differ in that the “Mousses” are prepared
singly for one service, _i.e._, for several people at once, and that
the “Mousselines,” which are virtually special quenelles, are prepared
in the proportion of one or two for each person.
In different parts of this work, especially under No. 797, the subject
has already been exhaustively treated; there is no need now, therefore,
to go over the ground again.
1671—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA
Mould and poach the _Mousselines_. Drain them, and set them in a circle
on a round dish; place on each a fine slice of cooked fowl, and upon
the latter a slice of truffle. Coat with Mornay sauce, glaze quickly,
and, in the middle of the _mousselines_, set a heap of asparagus-heads
or small peas, cohered with butter.
1672—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A L’INDIENNE
Prepare the _mousselines_ as above; set them in a circle on a round
dish; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à
l’Indienne separately.
1673—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE AU PAPRIKA
When the _mousselines_ are poached and dished, set upon each a fine
collop of _suprême_, and coat with suprême sauce with paprika. Surround
them with small timbales of pilaff rice combined with _concassed_
tomatoes cooked in butter.
1674—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA PATTI
Proceed as for “Mousselines Alexandra,” but coat them with suprême
sauce, finished with crayfish butter. In their midst set a heap of
asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and upon these lay some fine
slices of glazed truffles.
1675—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA SICILIENNE
Prepare the _mousselines_ as above, and set them, each on an oval
tartlet, garnished with macaroni à la Napolitaine. Coat them with
suprême sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan, and glaze quickly.
1676—SYLPHIDES DE VOLAILLE
Prepare and poach the _mousselines_ in the usual way. Garnish the
bottom of some _barquettes_ with Mornay sauce, and put a _mousseline_
into each _barquette_.
Set a collop of fowl on each _mousseline_, and cover them with a
somewhat stiff preparation of soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a), applied
ornamentally by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe. Put
the sylphides in the oven, in order to cook the _soufflé_, and serve
instantly.
1677—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA FLORENTINE
Proceed as for the sylphides; taking note only of this difference,
viz., that the bottom of the _barquettes_ must be garnished with
shredded spinach stewed in butter. For the other details of the
operation the procedure is the same.
1678—PILAW DE VOLAILLE
Pilaff, which is the national dish of Orientals, gives rise to an
endless number of recipes. The various curries of veal, lamb, and fowl
are “pilaffs,” and all except the one “à la Parisienne,” which I give
below, follow the same method of preparation—namely, that of curry; but
for a change in the condiments and the treatment of the rice, which is
not the same as that of “Riz à l’Indienne.”
1679—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA GRECQUE
Cut the fowl into small pieces, and fry it in mutton fat with three oz.
of chopped onions. Sprinkle with one oz. of flour; moisten with one
pint of white consommé; add two-thirds of a capsicum, cut into dice,
and one and one-half oz. of currants and sultanas, and cook gently.
Dish in a timbale, and serve some pilaw rice separately.
1680—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A L’ORIENTALE
Prepare the fowl as above, only flavour it with a little powdered
ginger, and add three green braised and quartered capsicums to the
sauce.
Serve a timbale of pilaff rice at the same time.
1681—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA PARISIENNE
Cut up the fowl as for a fricassée; season it; fry it in butter, and
add thereto three and one-half oz. of rice, browned in butter, with one
chopped onion, a leaf of bay, and two peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes.
Moisten with enough white broth to more than cover, and cook in a very
hot oven for twenty-five minutes. At the end of this time the fowl and
rice are cooked, and the rice should be quite dry.
Sprinkle then with one-sixth pint of veal stock; mix the latter with
the pilaff by means of a fork, and dish with care in a timbale.
Serve a sauceboat of tomato sauce separately.
1682—PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA TURQUE
Prepare the fowl as for “Pilaw à la Parisienne,” and flavour with a
little cayenne and another of saffron. Dish in a timbale.
N.B.—Pilaff may also be prepared with cooked fowl, cut into slices
which are heated in butter. In this case, garnish the bottoms and sides
of a timbale with _tomatéd_ pilaff rice; put the slices of fowl in the
middle; cover with rice, and turn out the timbale on the dish.
Surround the timbale with a thread of tomato sauce.
1683—SOUFFLÉS DE VOLAILLE
For dinners on a large scale, it is in every way preferable to use raw
chicken-meat. For small services, cooked chicken-meat suits perfectly.
N.B.—The time allowed for cooking chicken _soufflés_ with cooked
chicken-meat is comparatively long, and it is better to cook them a
little too much than not enough.
For a _soufflé_ made in a quart timbale, and cooked in a moderate oven
as directed, allow from about twenty-five to thirty minutes.
1684—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH RAW MEAT
Prepare two lbs. of _mousseline_ forcemeat of chicken, according to
recipe No. 195; add to this the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff
froth.
Dish in buttered timbales, and cook in a moderate oven.
1685—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH COOKED MEAT
Finely pound one lb. of the white of cooked chicken-meat; add thereto
six tablespoonfuls of cold, reduced, Béchamel sauce. Rub through tammy.
Heat this preparation in a saucepan, without allowing it to boil, and
add to it one and one-half oz. of butter, the yolks of five eggs, and
the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.
Dish in a buttered timbale, and cook in a moderate oven.
Suprême sauce and the other derivatives of Allemande sauce form the
best accompaniments to chicken _soufflés_.
1686—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE A LA PÉRIGORD
This may be made from either one of the two above-mentioned
preparations, but there must be added to it three and one-half oz. of
chopped truffles. The preparation is then spread in layers separated by
slices of truffle, which should weigh about three and one-half oz. in
all, in order to be in proportion to the quantities already given.
=Cold Preparations of Fowl.=
1687—POULARDE A LA CARMÉLITE
Poach the pullet; raise the _suprêmes_ and remove their skin; slice
them; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them
soberly with pieces of truffle. Trim the carcass; coat it outside with
white chaud-froid sauce, and fill it with a fine crayfish _mousse_,
reconstructing it exactly in so doing.
Cause a _mousse_ to set in a refrigerator; place the collops of
_suprême_ neatly upon it, in two rows, and between each row lay a dozen
fine crayfish tails shelled and trimmed.
Coat the whole with half-melted aspic jelly; set in a deep dish;
incrust the latter in a block of ice, and pour enough very good,
melting aspic jelly (No. 159) over the pullet to half-immerse it.
1688—POULARDE AU CHAMPAGNE
Stuff a pullet two days beforehand with a whole foie gras studded with
truffles and stiffened in butter for twenty minutes. _Poële_ it in
champagne; put it in a _cocotte_; cover it with its _poëling_-liquor,
containing a sufficient addition of succulent jelly, and leave it to
cool.
On the morrow remove, by means of a spoon, the grease that has settled
on the jelly, and scald the latter twice or thrice with boiling water,
in order to remove the last traces of grease.
Serve this pullet very cold, in the same _cocotte_ in which it has
cooled.
1689—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID
Poach the pullet; let it cool in its cooking-liquor; cut it up, and
clear the pieces of all skin. Dip the pieces in chaud-froid sauce,
already prepared from the pullet’s cooking-liquor if possible, and
arrange them on a tray. Decorate each piece with a fine slice of
truffle; glaze with cold, melted jelly; leave to set, and trim the
edges of the pieces, just before dishing them.
_Old method of dishing_: Formerly, chaud-froids were dished on a
cushion of bread or rice, placed in the middle of a border of jelly;
and, between each piece, cocks’ combs and mushrooms, covered with
chaud-froid sauce or jelly, were set.
They were also dished on stearine tazzas, made in special moulds; but
these methods, however much they may have been honoured by old cookery,
are generally scouted at the present day.
The method of dishing detailed hereafter is steadily ousting them; it
allows of serving much more delicate and more agreeable chaud-froids in
the simplest possible way, and was inaugurated at my suggestion at the
Savoy Hotel.
_Modern method of dishing_: Set the decorated pieces, coated with
chaud-froid sauce, side by side on a layer of excellent aspic jelly,
lying on the bottom of a deep square dish. Cover them with the same
aspic, which should be half melted, and leave to set. When about to
serve, incrust the dish in a block of carved ice, or surround it with
the latter fragmented.
This procedure allows of using less gelatinous products in the
preparation of the aspic, and the latter is therefore much more
delicate, mellow, and melting.
1690—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID A L’ÉCOSSAISE
Having poached and cooled the pullets, raise the _suprêmes_, and cut
each into three or four collops. Garnish these collops, dome-fashion,
with a _salpicon_ consisting of the meat cut from the carcass, combined
with an equal quantity of salted tongue and truffle, and cohered with
reduced chicken jelly.
Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce; sprinkle them
immediately with very red tongue, truffle, gherkins, and hard-boiled
white of egg; all chopped, mixed, and glazed with jelly.
Now set the collops in a deep, square silver dish, alternating them
with oval slices of salted tongue.
Garnish their midst with a salad of French beans, cut lozenge-form and
cohered with aspic.
1691—CHAUD-FROID FELIX FAURE
Raise the _suprêmes_ of a fine pullet; cut them in two in the thick
part, without separating them, and slightly flatten them. Lay them on
a piece of linen; season them; and, on one of their halves, spread a
layer of foie-gras purée thickened with a little chicken forcemeat.
Upon this layer set some rectangles of raw foie gras, one-third in.
thick; cover with purée, set some slices of truffle upon the latter;
coat again with purée; moisten with white of egg, and over the whole
press the other half of the _suprême_. Wrap each _suprême_, prepared in
this way, in a piece of muslin; poach them in a moderate oven, after
having moistened them to within half their height with chicken stock;
and leave them to cool in their cooking-liquor under slight pressure.
This done, take off the muslin, and cut each _suprême_ into ten or
twelve medallions. Envelop each medallion in a _mousse_ of chicken made
with the meat of the poached eggs, and leave to set. Then coat each
medallion with white chaud-froid sauce, and deck each with a fine slice
of truffle.
_Clothe_ a dome-mould with a fine chicken jelly, and decorate it with
slices of truffle; put the medallions inside, proceeding as for an
aspic, and leave to set.
When about to serve, turn out on a serviette.
1692—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA GOUNOD
Raise the _suprêmes_ of a poached pullet, and cool them under pressure.
Then cut them into rectangles of equal sizes; and, if necessary, bisect
them in the thickness.
Prepare a slab of _mousse_ (made from the legs and the trimmings),
twice as thick as the rectangles. Smoothen this _mousse_ neatly, and
put it in the refrigerator that it may get firm. This done, cut it into
pieces exactly equal in size to the _suprêmes_; to do this, all that is
necessary is to stick the latter on the _mousse_ by means of jelly.
Now coat each _suprême_ garnished with _mousse_ with white chaud-froid
sauce, and decorate with a bar of notes, imitated with truffles.
Set in a square, deep silver dish; cover with limpid and melting
chicken jelly; leave to set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of
ice.
1693—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA ROSSINI
Prepare the pieces as for ordinary chaud-froid, and coat them with
chaud-froid sauce combined with a quarter of its bulk of very smooth
foie-gras purée. Decorate each piece with a lyre composed of truffle
stamped out with a “lyre” fancy-cutter, set them on a deep, square
dish, and cover with chicken jelly as above.
1694—POULARDE A LA DAMPIERRE
Completely bone the pullet’s breast, and stuff it with a preparation
of chicken forcemeat (No. 200). Sew up the piece, truss it as for an
entrée, and poach it in a chicken stock.
When it is cold, trim it, and coat it with a white chaud-froid sauce,
combined with a little almond milk. Glaze with aspic jelly, and set it,
without decorating it, on a low cushion lying on a long dish.
Surround it with six small, ham _mousses_ and six small, chicken
_mousses_, moulded in deep _dariole-moulds_, and arranged alternately.
Border the dish with _croûtons_ of jelly, cut very neatly.
1695—POULETS A L’ÉCARLATE
Bone the breasts of three fair-sized chickens; stuff and poach them
as explained above. When they are quite cold, cover them with white
chaud-froid sauce; decorate with pieces of truffle; glaze with aspic
jelly, and leave to set.
This done, set them upright on a dish, letting them lean one against
the other. Between each chicken set a salted calf’s tongue, upright,
with the tip of the tongue pointing upwards; and, on either side of the
tongues, a large glazed truffle.
Border the dish with fine _croûtons_ of jelly, and serve a mayonnaise
sauce at the same time.
1696—POULARDE A LA LAMBERTYE
Poach the pullet and let it cool thoroughly.
Raise the _suprêmes_, suppress the bones of the breast and garnish
the cavity with a cold chicken _mousse_, combined with a quarter of
its volume of foie-gras purée, shaping the latter in such wise as to
reconstruct the bird.
Cut the _suprêmes_ into thin, long slices; coat them with white
chaud-froid sauce, and place them on the _mousse_, pressing them
lightly one upon the other. Deck with pieces of truffle; glaze with
chicken jelly; set in a square, entrée dish, and surround with melted
jelly.
When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.
1697—POULARDE A LA NEVA
Stuff the pullet with chicken forcemeat (No. 200), combined with foie
gras and truffles, cut into dice; poach it in chicken stock and let it
cool. This done, coat the piece with white chaud-froid sauce, decorate
with jelly, and leave to set.
Set the pullet on a cushion of rice, lying on a long dish. Behind the
bird, arrange a fine, vegetable salad in a shell of carved rice, or in
a large, silver shell.
Border the dish with neatly-cut _croûtons_ of pale jelly.
1698—POULARDE ROSE DE MAI
Poach the pullet and, when it is quite cold, raise its _suprêmes_
and remove the bones of the breast. Coat the carcass with a white
chaud-froid sauce; decorate as fancy may dictate; garnish with a
_mousse_ of tomatoes (No. 814), and arrange the latter in such wise as
to reconstruct the bird.
Slice the _suprêmes_; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce;
decorate with truffles, and glaze with chicken jelly. Garnish with
the same _mousse_ as that already used for the pullet, as many small,
_barquette_-moulds as there are chaud-froid-coated slices, and leave to
set.
Put the pullets on a low cushion of rice, placed on a long dish;
surround it with the _barquettes_ of _mousse_, turned out at the
last moment; set a chaud-froid-coated slice on each _barquette_, and
distribute _croûtons_ of jelly over the dish.
1699—POULARDE ROSE MARIE
Having poached and cooled the pullet, raise its _suprêmes_; cut these
into collops, and coat them with white chaud-froid sauce. Trim the
carcass, leaving the wings attached; garnish it with very smooth and
pink, ham _mousse_, giving the latter the shape of the pullet, and put
to set in the refrigerator.
Mould in small, oval moulds, as many _barquettes_ of the same ham
_mousse_ as there are collops.
When the mousse in the fowl has properly set, coat it with chaud-froid
sauce, prepared with paprika of a fine, tender, pink shade; decorate
according to fancy, and glaze with chicken jelly.
Set the pullet on a low cushion of rice, placed on a dish; place the
_barquettes_ of ham _mousse_ around it; set a collop on each _mousse_
and a fine slice of truffle on each collop, and border the dish with
_croûtons_ of aspic.
1700—POULARDE A LA SAINT-CYR
_Poële_ the pullet in white wine, and leave it to cool in its
cooking-liquor. This done, raise the fillets; cut them into regular
slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce and decorate.
Meanwhile, _sauté_ fifteen larks in a _mirepoix_; remove the fillets
of six of them; glaze them with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and decorate
them with bits of hard-boiled white of egg.
With the remainder of the larks and five oz. of foie gras, prepare a
_mousse_, and use the latter for reconstructing the pullet as explained
in the preceding recipes. When the _mousse_ has set properly, coat it
with brown, chaud-froid sauce. Arrange the chicken fillets, coated with
white, chaud-froid sauce, on either side of the _mousse_; in the middle
put the larks’ fillets, coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and let
them slightly overlap one another.
Set the pullet in a deep, square dish; surround it with melted, chicken
jelly; let the latter set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of
ice.
1701—POULARDE EN TERRINE A LA GELÉE
Bone the pullet all but the legs, and stuff it with a forcemeat
consisting of: three and one-half oz. of veal; three and one-half oz.
of fresh pork fat; three and one-half oz. of _gratin_ forcemeat,
prepared from fowls’ livers; two tablespoonfuls of brandy; two
tablespoonfuls of truffle essence, and the yolk of an egg.
In the midst of the stuffing, set half of a raw foie gras and one raw,
quartered truffle on each side. Reconstruct the pullet; truss it as for
an entrée; cover it with slices of bacon, and _poële_ in Madeira for
one and one-half hours.
Leave to half-cool in the cooking-liquor; withdraw the pullet; remove
the slices of bacon, and put it in a _terrine_ just large enough to
hold it.
Add a little chicken jelly to the bird’s cooking-liquor, which should
not have been cleared of grease, but merely strained through a napkin;
and pour this sauce over the pullet.
Do not serve until twenty-four hours have elapsed, and clear of grease
as directed under “Poularde au Champagne” (No. 1688).
Serve the _terrine_ in a block of ice, or on a dish with broken ice all
round.
1702—TERRINE DE POULARDE EN CONSERVE
Prepare the pullet as explained above, and put it in a box just large
enough to hold it. Seal up the box; mark the top with a bit of tin; put
it in a stewpan with enough water to cover it, and boil for two hours.
This done, withdraw the box and cool it, placing it upside down, that
the grease may be at the bottom and the breast coated with jelly.
1703—AILERONS DE POULET A LA CARMÉLITE
Poach a chicken à la Reine; let it cool; raise its _suprêmes_ and leave
the humerus bones attached, after having duly cleared them of all meat;
skin the _suprêmes_, and coat them with a little jelly.
Garnish a timbale, just large enough to hold the two wings, half-way
up with crayfish _mousse_. Upon this _mousse_, set the two _suprêmes_,
opposite one another, and between them set a row of shelled and trimmed
crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque. Cover the whole with a
succulent half-set chicken jelly, and place in the refrigerator for two
hours.
1704—AILERONS DE POULET LADY WILMER
Poach three fleshy, spring chickens, taking care to have the _suprêmes_
just cooked. Leave to cool, and raise the wings as in the preceding
recipe, trim them and coat them with jelly.
With the meat of three legs, prepare a chicken _mousse_, and mould
it in a dome-mould. When the _mousse_ is set, turn it out on a dish,
and place the wings all round, fixing them on the _mousse_, with their
points upwards, by means of a little half-set jelly.
Cover the _mousse_ on top, and the gaps between the points of the
_suprêmes_ with chopped truffle and chopped tongue, laid alternately.
In the middle of the _mousse_, set a fine, glazed truffle, pierced by a
small _hatelet_.
1705—ASPIC DE POULET A L’ITALIENNE
_Clothe_ a border mould with aspic jelly, in accordance with the
procedure described under “Aspic de Homard” (No. 954), and decorate it
with large slices of truffles. Fill the mould with a coarse _julienne_
of chicken fillets, salted tongue and truffles, spread in successive
layers and besprinkled with cold, melted aspic.
When about to serve, turn out the aspic on a very cold dish; set
a salad “à l’Italienne” in its midst, and serve a Rémoulade sauce
separately.
1706—ASPIC DE POULET A LA GAULOISE
_Clothe_ an ornamented mould with jelly, and decorate its bottom and
sides with truffles. Fill it with successive and alternate layers of:
aspic jelly, collops of chicken fillets, cocks’ combs coated with
brown, chaud-froid sauce, fine cocks’ kidneys, coated with white
chaud-froid sauce, and slices of salted tongue cut into oval shapes.
When about to serve, turn out, and surround with fine _croûtons_ of
aspic.
1707—MÉDAILLONS DE VOLAILLE RACHEL
Prepare some chicken _suprêmes_ as explained under “Chaud-froid Félix
Faure” (No. 1691), and cut them into collops. Trim these collops with a
round, even cutter, and coat them with aspic.
Prepare a _mousse_ from the meat of the legs. Spread this _mousse_ on
a tray in a layer one-third in. thick and leave it to set. When it
is quite firm, stamp it out with a round, even cutter, dipped in hot
water, and a little larger than the one used in trimming the collops.
Set a medallion on each roundel of _mousse_, fixing it there by means
of a little half-set jelly, and arrange the medallion prepared in this
way on a square dish.
In their midst set a fine faggot of asparagus-heads; fill the gaps
between the medallions with a garnish consisting of a salad of
asparagus-heads with cream.
Serve on a block of ice or surround the dish with ice.
1708—GALANTINE DE VOLAILLE
For galantines, fowls may be used which are a little too tough to be
roasted, but old fowls should be discarded. The latter invariably yield
a dry forcemeat, whatever measures one may take in the preparation.
The fowl should be cleaned but not emptied, and it should be carefully
boned; the process beginning from an incision down the skin of the
back, from the head to the tail.
This done, carefully remove the meat with the point of a small, sharp
knife, until the carcass is quite bare. Cut off the wings and the legs,
flush with the articulations of the trunk; remove all the meat that the
skin may be quite clean, and spread the skin on a clean piece of linen.
Trim the meat of the breast, cut it into pieces one-third inch square,
and put the resulting trimmings aside.
Season these pieces and _marinade_ them in a few drops of brandy;
prepare other pieces of the same size and length from four oz. of
truffles; six oz. of salted, fat pork; four oz. of cooked ham, and
four oz. of salted and cooked ox-tongue. Then clear the meat of the
legs of all tendons; add to it the trimmings cut from the breast, as
much very white veal and twice as much very fat, fresh pork; season
these meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; chop them up very finely;
pound them, and rub them through a sieve. Add the brandy in which the
fillets were _marinaded_.
Spread a layer, three in. wide, of this forcemeat along the whole of
the middle of the chicken’s skin; upon this layer of forcemeat set
the strips of bacon, fowl, truffle, ham, and tongue, arranging them
alternately and regularly; upon them spread another layer of forcemeat,
equal to the first; then another layer of the various pieces, and
finally cover and envelop the whole in what remains of the forcemeat.
Draw the skin of the fowl over the whole and completely wrap the former
round the latter. Carefully sew up the edges of the skin, and roll the
galantine in a napkin, either end of which should be tightly strung.
With six lbs. of shin of veal, one-half lb. of fresh _blanched_ pork
rind, and the fowl’s carcass, prepare a white veal stock (No. 10). When
this stock has cooked for about five hours, add the galantine to it,
and gently cook the latter for about one and one-quarter hours.
At the end of this time take the galantine off the fire; drain it on a
dish, and let it cool for ten minutes; remove the napkin in which it
has cooked, and roll it in another one which should be similarly tied
at both ends. This done, put the galantine to cool under a weight not
exceeding five or six lbs.
The cooking-liquor, once it has been cleared of grease and clarified
as for an aspic (No. 158), constitutes a jelly which accompanies the
galantine. When the latter is quite cold, remove the napkin covering
it, trim it neatly at either end; coat it with half-melted jelly, and
dish it on a low cushion of carved rice. Finally, decorate it as fancy
may dictate with pieces of jelly.
1709—PAIN DE VOLAILLE FROID
_Poële_ a very tender chicken; do not colour it and have it only
just done. Withdraw it and leave it to cool. Add two tablespoonfuls
of strong veal stock and one tablespoonful of burned brandy to the
_poëling_-liquor.
Simmer for ten minutes. Strain this stock through a sieve, and slightly
press the vegetables in so doing, that all their juices may be
expressed.
Clear of grease, and reduce until the liquor does not measure more
than two tablespoonfuls. Put it on the side of the fire, add the yolks
of three eggs, stirring briskly the while, and add, little by little,
six oz. of very good, fresh butter, just as for a Hollandaise sauce.
Finally, add one and one-half leaves of gelatine, dissolved in two
tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and rub the whole through tammy.
Meanwhile, raise the chicken’s fillets and cut them into wide and thin
collops, after having cleared them of skin. Cover each collop with a
slice of truffle dipped in good, half-melted jelly, and with them line
the bottom and sides of a timbale-mould, already _clothed_ with jelly
and incrusted in ice.
Then completely bone the chicken; finely pound the remainder of its
meat as well as the skin; rub the whole through a fine sieve, and add
the resulting purée to the prepared sauce. Mix the whole well, and fill
the mould with it. Allow to set well, and turn out on a cushion of rice
surrounded by fine _croûtons_ of jelly.
N.B.—By substituting young ducks, young pigeons, or some kind of game
such as pheasant, woodcock, &c., for the chicken, this recipe may be
applied to any piece of poultry or game.
1710—SUPRÊME DE VOLAILLE JEANNETTE
Poach a fowl; let it cool; raise its _suprêmes_, and cut each into four
collops, trimmed to the shape of ovals. Coat these collops with white
chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with tarragon leaves, _blanched_,
cooled, well-drained and very green.
Let a layer of aspic jelly one-half in. thick set on the bottom of a
timbale or a square dish; upon this layer set some slices of foie-gras
Parfait, cut to the shape of the collops, and place one of the latter
on each slice of the Parfait. This done, cover with fine half-melted
chicken jelly.
When about to serve, incrust the dish or the timbale in a block of
carved ice.
1711—MOUSSE DE VOLAILLE FROIDE
The carefully boned and skinned meat of a poached fowl may be used in
the preparation of this _mousse_, but a freshly-roasted fowl, scarcely
cooled, is preferable; the latter’s flavour being more delicate and
more distinct.
The quantities and the mode of procedure for cold fowl _mousse_ are
those given under “mousse de tomates” (No. 814).
The various _mousse_ recipes which I gave for trout (Nos. 813 and 815)
may be applied to cold fillets of fowl. In this case, the latter may
be coated with some kind of chaud-froid sauce, or simply glazed with
jelly, and soberly decorated.
These mousses constitute excellent dishes for suppers, and from a very
long list of them I may quote:—
Mousse de jambon au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de foie gras au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de langue au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de tomates au blanc de poulet.
Mousse d’écrevisses au blanc de poulet.
Mousse d’airelles ou de canneberges au blanc de poulet.
Mousse de physalis au blanc de poulet.
1712—MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE
Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with _ciseled_ lettuce, arranging it
in the shape of a dome. Season with a little salt and a few drops of
vinegar. Upon this salad arrange the cold collops of boiled or roast
fowl, carefully cleared of all skin.
Cover with mayonnaise sauce; smooth the latter and decorate with
capers; small stoned olives; anchovy fillets; quartered hard-boiled
eggs; small quartered or whole lettuce hearts.
Arrange these decorating constituents according to fancy, as no hard
and fast rule can be given.
When about to serve, mix as for a salad.
1713—CHICKEN SALAD
This dish consists of the same ingredients as the preceding one, except
for the mayonnaise, which is replaced by an ordinary seasoning added
just before mixing and serving.
1714—PÂTÉ DE POULET
Line a raised-pie mould with patty paste (No. 2359), taking care to
leave a fine crest.
Bone a fowl weighing about four or five lbs. Set the _suprêmes_ (each
cut into three collops) to _marinade_ in a glass of brandy, salt,
pepper, nutmeg, and five medium-sized peeled truffles, each cut into
four or five thick slices.
With what remains of the fowl’s meat, as much lean pork and veal (mixed
in equal quantities) and twice as much fresh, pork fat (_i.e._, a
quantity equal in weight to all the other meats put together), prepare
a very smooth forcemeat; chopping the whole first, then pounding it
and rubbing it through a sieve. Add to this forcemeat a little truffle
essence; the _marinade_ of the fillets; one raw egg, and the necessary
seasoning, to wit: salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Line the bottom and sides of the pie with this forcemeat; on this
first layer of forcemeat lay a thin slice of bacon and thick slices of
tongue, beef, or ham. Place thereon another slice of bacon, followed
by a thin layer of forcemeat, a layer of truffle slices, another layer
of forcemeat, the collops of fowl, another layer of forcemeat, one
more layer of truffles, one more layer of forcemeat, one more layer of
tongue or ham (between two thin slices of bacon); and finally cover the
whole with what remains of the forcemeat and a slice of larding bacon
superposed by a bay-leaf. Now close the pie with a cover of the same
paste as that already used, carefully seal down the cover to the crest
of the underlying paste, trim and pinch the crest, and deck this cover
of paste with imitation-leaves of the same paste.
Make a slit in the top of the pie, for the escape of steam; carefully
_gild_ the cover and the crest, and bake in a moderate oven for about
one and one-quarter hours. On withdrawing the pie from the oven, let it
half cool, and fill it with a succulent, chicken jelly. Allow this dish
to cool for at least twenty-four hours before serving.
N.B.—With this recipe as model, and by substituting another piece of
poultry or game for the fowl, raised pies may be prepared from every
kind of game or poultry, except water-game, which only yields mediocre
results.
In the case of game pies, the forcemeat is combined with one-sixth of
its weight of _gratin_ forcemeat (No. 202) and an equal quantity of
fat bacon is suppressed. The chicken jelly is also replaced by a jelly
prepared from the carcasses of the birds under treatment.
Dish these raised pies plainly, on napkins, and very cold.
1714a—CHICKEN PIE
See No. 1660.
1715—DINDONNEAU (Young Turkey)
Young turkeys, served as relevés or entrées, admit of all the recipes
given for pullets; therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition,
the reader is begged to refer to those recipes.
Those most generally applied to young turkeys are the ones termed
“à l’Anglaise”—with celery, à la Financière, à la Godard, and à la
Jardinière.
In addition to these preparations, there are others which are better
suited and are more proper to young turkeys, and these I give below.
1716—DINDONNEAU FARCI AUX MARRONS
Cut open the shells of two and one-quarter lbs. of chestnuts;
immerse them for a few seconds in smoking fat; peel them, and almost
completely cook them in consommé. Then mix them with two lbs. of very
finely-chopped pork, rubbed through tammy. Fill the bird with this
preparation; truss it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting
frequently the while.
Serve with the gravy separately. The latter should be somewhat fat.
1717—DINDONNEAU A LA CATALANE
Cut up the young turkey as for a fricassée, and fry the pieces in
three oz. of butter. When the pieces are nicely browned, swill the
utensil with one pint of white wine; season with salt and pepper; add
a piece, the size of a pea, of crushed garlic, and completely reduce.
Then moisten with sufficient tomato purée and equal quantities of
Espagnole and brown stock to just cover the pieces.
Cook in the oven for forty minutes; transfer the pieces to another
dish after having trimmed them, and add one-half lb. of raw, quartered
mushrooms, _sautéd_ in butter; twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé;
twenty small, glazed onions; five quartered tomatoes, and ten sausages.
Strain the sauce over the pieces of turkey; complete the cooking for
twenty-five minutes, and dish in a timbale.
1718—DINDONNEAU CHIPOLATA
This may be prepared in two ways, according as to whether it be
intended for lunch or for dinner.
(1) Cut up the young turkey and fry the pieces in butter as above.
Swill with one glassful of white wine; add a sufficient quantity of
_tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce, just to cover the pieces, and cook in the
oven for forty minutes.
This done, transfer the pieces to another stewpan and add thereto
twenty small, glazed onions, twenty chestnuts cooked in consommé, ten
chipolata sausages, one-third lb. of frizzled pieces of fresh pork cut
into dice, and twenty olive-shaped and glazed carrots. Strain the sauce
over the whole, complete the cooking and dish in a timbale.
(2) Braise the young turkey; glaze it at the last moment, and set on a
long dish. Surround it with the garnish given above, combined with the
reduced braising-liquor.
1719—DINDONNEAU EN DAUBE
Bone the young turkey’s breast, and stuff it, arranging its meat as for
a galantine, with very good sausage-meat combined with a glassful of
liqueur brandy per two lbs. of the former; bacon, truffles; and a very
small and red ox-tongue, covered with slices of bacon and set in the
centre of the garnish.
Reconstruct the young turkey; sew it; truss it, and put it in a
_terrine_ just large enough to hold it and its moistening.
With the bones and the trimmings of the young turkey, two slices of
veal, two lbs. of frizzled beef, aromatics, one pint of white wine, and
two quarts of water, prepare a brown stock after recipe No. 9. Reduce
this stock to one and one-half quarts; put it into the _terrine_; cover
and thoroughly close up the latter with a strip of paste, and cook in a
hot oven for two and one-half hours.
Leave to cool in the _terrine_, and, when about to serve, slightly heat
the latter in order to turn out the daube.
1720—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA DAMPIERRE
Remove and bone the young turkey’s legs. With the meat, carefully
cleared of all tendons, prepare a _mousseline_ forcemeat; spread the
latter on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick, and poach it. Stamp it
out with an even, oval fancy-cutter, about three in. by two in.
Braise or _poële_ the young turkey’s breast with the greatest care,
keeping it underdone. This done, raise the two _suprêmes_, skin
them, and cut them into collops of a size that will allow of their
being trimmed with the fancy-cutter already used. With a little raw
forcemeat, stick a collop to each oval of poached forcemeat; then, by
means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, garnish the borders of
the collops with the same forcemeat combined with twice its bulk of
chopped salted tongue. Set the medallions thus prepared on a covered
tray, and put them in the steamer that the forcemeat may poach.
When about to serve, take the piping-bag and make a fine rosette of a
purée of peas in the centre of each medallion. Set these medallions in
a circle on a round dish, around a little bowl of carved, fried bread,
garnished with the same purée of peas.
Serve separately a velouté prepared from the bones of the dindonneau.
1721—BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE
_Poële_ the young turkey. When it is cooked, raise its _suprêmes_, skin
them, and cut them into somewhat thick collops.
Dish these collops in a circle, and set a collop of foie gras, _sautéd_
in butter, between each.
Pour a Toulousaine garnish in their midst, and surround with a thread
of light glaze.
1722—AILERONS DE DINDONNEAU DORÉS A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS
The pinions referred to in this recipe are pinions properly so called;
that is to say, they consist of the two last joints of the wing. When
they are properly prepared, they constitute one of the most savoury
luncheon entrées that can be served.
The pinions of large pullets may be treated in this way.
Clear and singe the pinions, and set them in a buttered sautépan, just
large enough to hold them. Colour gently on both sides and drain.
In the same butter, gently brown a sliced carrot and onion, to which
add a few parsley stalks and a little thyme and bay. Set the pinions
on these aromatics; season moderately with salt and pepper; cover the
sautépan, and continue cooking gently in a very slow oven, basting
often the while.
The dish will be all the better for having been cooked slowly and
regularly. Do not moisten, if possible, or, at the most, only do
so with a few drops of water, in order to keep the butter from
clarifying—not an unusual occurrence when the heat is too fierce.
When the pinions are cooked, dish them radially, and cover them that
they may keep warm. Add a few tablespoonfuls of light stock or some
water to the cooking butter, and set to boil gently for fifteen
minutes. When this stock is sufficiently reduced to only half-immerse
the pinions, pass it through a fine strainer and clear of some of the
grease if necessary; remember, however, that this stock should be
somewhat fat.
Pour it over the pinions, and serve a timbale of a fine purée of
marrons separately.
1722a—DINDONNEAU FROID
All the recipes given for cold pullets may be applied to this bird.
=Goose (Oie)=
The principal value of the goose from the culinary point of view lies
in the fact that it supplies the best, most delicate and firmest foie
gras.
Apart from this property, the preciousness of which is truly
inestimable, goose is really only served at bourgeois or family tables.
1722b—OISON A L’ALLEMANDE
Completely bone the gosling’s breast; season it inside, and stuff it
with quartered, peeled and cored apples, half-cooked in butter.
Sew up the openings, and braise gently, basting with fat the while.
When the gosling is cooked, dish it and surround it with peeled apples,
cored by means of the tube-cutter, cooked in butter, and garnished
with red-currant jelly. Drain away three-quarters of the grease; swill
the braising-pan with the required quantity of good gravy for roasts;
strain this gravy, and serve it separately.
1722c—OISON A L’ALSACIENNE
Stuff the gosling with very good sausage-meat; truss; colour in butter
and _poële_. Dish and surround with sauerkraut braised in goose grease,
and rectangles of lean bacon, cooked with the sauerkraut.
1723—OISON A L’ANGLAISE
Cook one lb. of unpeeled onions in the oven. When they are cold, peel
them; chop them, and add to them an equal weight of soaked and pressed
bread, one oz. of fresh or chopped sage, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Stuff the gosling with this preparation; truss it, and roast it on the
spit or in the oven.
Dish it; surround it with the gravy, which should be somewhat fat, and
serve a sauceboat of slightly-sugared, stewed apples, separately.
1724—OISON EN CIVET
When killing the gosling, carefully collect its blood. Add the juice of
a lemon and beat it, so as to prevent coagulation, until it is quite
cold.
Cut the gosling into pieces and proceed exactly as for “Civet de
Lièvre” (No. 1821).
1725—OISON AU RAIFORT
Braise the gosling.
Dish it and surround it, either with noodles with butter, or
rice au gras (No. 2252). Besprinkle the garnish with the reduced
braising-liquor, and serve a horse-radish sauce with cream (No. 138),
separately.
N.B.—Besides these various recipes, goslings may also be prepared like
young turkeys, _i.e._, with chestnuts, à la Chipolata, en Daube; or
with turnips, peas, and “en Salmis,” like Duck.
1726—FOIE GRAS
Foies gras are supplied either by geese or ducks. Goose’s liver is
larger, firmer and less readily melted than that of the duck. As a rule
the former should be selected in preference, more particularly in the
matter of hot dishes. Nevertheless, failing goose’s liver, duck’s liver
may be used and with very good results when its quality is good.
Foies gras are used in the preparation of _terrines_, raised pies,
parfaits and _mousses_, which are among the most delicate and richest
of cold dishes.
They may also be used as a garnishing ingredient, in the form of
collops or _mousseline_ quenelles. Finally, they may also be served as
hot entrées.
When a whole foie gras is to be served hot, it must first be trimmed,
studded with raw truffles which have been previously peeled, quartered,
seasoned with salt and pepper, stiffened in a glassful of brandy,
together with a bay-leaf, and cooled in a thoroughly closed _terrine_.
When the foie gras has been studded with truffles, wrap it in
thin slices of bacon or a piece of pig’s caul, and set it in a
thoroughly-sealed _terrine_ before cooking it.
The best way to cook foie gras, when it is to be served whole and hot,
is to bake it in a crust of paste that can absorb the excess of grease
produced by the melting of the liver. For this purpose prepare two
layers of patty paste, a little larger than the liver.
On one of these layers, set the liver wrapped in slices of bacon; and,
if possible, surround it with whole fair-sized truffles, peeled. Set
half a bay-leaf on the liver; moisten the edges of the paste; cover
the whole with the other layer of paste; seal it down with the thumb,
and fold over the edges of the paste to form a regular, ornamented
border which, besides finishing off the preparation, also increases the
strength of the welding.
_Gild_ the top; streak; make a slit in the top for the escape of the
steam; and, in the case of a medium-sized liver, cook in a good,
moderate oven for from forty to forty-five minutes.
Serve this crust as it stands, and send the garnish separately.
In the dining-room, the waiter in charge removes the top of the crust,
cuts out the liver with a spoon, setting a piece on each plate, and
arranges around each piece the garnish mentioned on the menu.
I am not partial to the cooking of foie gras in a _terrine_ when it is
to be served hot. In any case the method described above strikes me as
being much the best, whatever be the garnish that is served with the
liver.
I particularly recommend a garnish of noodles, macaroni, lazagnes,
spaghetti and even rice, with hot foie gras.
These pastes should simply be cooked in water and finished with cream.
This accompaniment makes the foie gras much more digestible and
palatable. The best garnishes for hot foie gras, besides those given
above, are truffles, whole or in slices, or a Financière. In the matter
of brown sauces, a Madeira sauce suits admirably, provided it be of
great delicacy and not overcharged with Madeira; but a very light
buttered, veal or chicken glaze, combined with a little old Sherry
or old Port, is even superior. A Hongroise sauce with paprika or an
excellent suprême sauce may also be served when the garnish admits of
it.
1727—FOIE GRAS CUIT DANS UNE BRIOCHE
For this dish the foie gras is cooked differently; the result is almost
the same as that yielded by the crust prescribed above, except that it
is much more delicate. This method, moreover, allows of obtaining a
foie gras clear of all grease (the latter being completely absorbed by
the paste), and is therefore best suited to cold dishing.
After having studded the foie gras with truffles and placed it in a
closed _terrine_ as above, wrap it in slices of bacon, set it to poach
in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and leave it to cool.
Line a buttered timbale-mould, of a size in proportion to that of
the liver, with a thick layer of ordinary unsugared brioche paste
(No. 2370).
Put the foie gras upright in the mould, which it should almost fill;
close the timbale with a cover of the same paste; make a slit in the
top; surround the top of the mould with a band of strong, buttered
paper, that the paste may be prevented from running over, and let it
rest for about thirty minutes in a temperature of 86° F. to allow the
paste to work.
Bake in a rather hot oven, until a needle inserted through the centre
withdraws quite clean.
Serve the dish as it stands with one of the ordinary foie-gras
garnishes.
1728—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA PÉRIGUEUX
Cut some slices two and one-half oz. in weight from a raw foie
gras. Season them with salt and pepper; dip in beaten egg; roll in
finely-chopped truffle, and _sauté_ in clarified butter.
Dish in a circle, and, in the middle, pour a Madeira sauce flavoured
with truffle essence.
1729—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA RAVIGNAN
From a layer of unsugared brioche paste, one-third in. thick, cut
twenty roundels two and one-half in. in diameter. On ten of these
roundels, spread a coating of chicken forcemeat, leaving a margin
one-third in. wide of bare paste on each roundel.
Set a slice of truffle in the middle, a thick roundel of raw foie gras
on the truffle, another slice of truffle upon that, a coat of forcemeat
over the whole; and cover with the ten remaining roundels, after having
slightly moistened the latter, that the two edges of paste may be
sealed. Press with the back of a round cutter; _gild_, and cook in a
hot oven for fifteen minutes.
Dish in a circle, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.
1730—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA TALLEYRAND
Prepare: (1) a crust made in a flawn-mould, six in. in diameter;
(2) a garnish of _blanched_ macaroni, cut into lengths of one in.,
cohered with four oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan cheese per lb. of
macaroni, and combined with two oz. of butter, four oz. of a _julienne_
of truffles and four oz. of foie gras cut into large dice.
Dish in a circle in the crust ten collops of foie gras _sautéd_ in
butter, alternating them with fine slices of truffle. Put the macaroni
in the middle, shaping it like a dome, sprinkle with grated cheese and
glaze quickly.
Dish on a napkin, and serve separately a clear chicken glaze, flavoured
with truffles and well buttered.
1731—SOUFFLÉ DE FOIE GRAS
Rub two-thirds lb. of foie gras and three and one-half oz. of raw
truffles through a fine sieve. Mix the two purées in a basin, and add
two-thirds lb. of raw chicken-meat, pounded with the whites of four
eggs, and rubbed through a fine sieve. Season; work the preparation on
ice, and add to it, little by little, one-half pint of rich, thick, and
very fresh cream, then the well-stiffened whites of four eggs.
Dish in a buttered _soufflé_ saucepan, and poach under cover in the
_bain-marie_ for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.
Serve a Madeira sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.
1732—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS A L’ALSACIENNE
Prepare an ordinary timbale crust. When about to serve, fill it
with layers of noodles with cream, separated by alternate layers of
foie-gras collops, _sautéd_ in butter, and slices of truffles. Complete
with some raw noodles, tossed in butter and distributed over the last
layer of cohered noodles.
Cover the timbale, and serve a suprême sauce, flavoured with truffle
essence, separately.
1733—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS CAMBACÉRÈS
Line a buttered dome-mould with rings of large poached macaroni.
These rings should be one-fifth inch thick, and should be garnished
inside with very black truffle purée, cohered by means of a little
forcemeat.
When the mould is lined, coat it inside with a layer of chicken
forcemeat combined with truffle purée. Put the mould for a few minutes
in a moderate oven, that the forcemeat may poach.
Reduce one-third pint of Béchamel sauce, combined with four to five
tablespoonfuls of truffle and chicken essence, to half; mix therewith
one-half lb. of poached macaroni, cut into lengths of one inch,
and four tablespoonfuls of foie-gras and truffle purée, made from
trimmings. Mix the whole thoroughly.
Garnish the timbale with this macaroni, spreading it in layers,
separated by other alternate layers of foie-gras collops, poached in
Madeira, and slices of truffle. Cover the garnish with a layer of
forcemeat, and poach in the _bain-marie_, allowing forty-five minutes
for a quart-mould.
Let the mould stand for a few minutes before emptying it; turn out
the timbale upon a round dish; surround it with a border of Périgueux
sauce, and serve a sauceboat of Périgueux sauce separately.
1734—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS MONTESQUIEU
Spread a very even layer, one-third inch thick, of chicken forcemeat
upon a sheet of buttered paper. Moisten the surface with some white of
egg; sprinkle with chopped truffle, and press on the latter by means of
the flat of a knife.
Set to poach gently; cool, and then stamp out with a round, even
cutter, one inch in diameter. With the resulting roundels, garnish
the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould, placing their truffled
sides against the mould. Then, with the view of binding these roundels
together, as they are to constitute the outside of the timbale, coat
the whole of the mould inside with some fairly firm chicken forcemeat,
combined with a quarter of its bulk of foie-gras purée.
Fill the mould with a foie-gras Parfait with truffles cut into very
large dice and cohered by means of _mousseline_ chicken forcemeat.
Cover the whole with a layer of the same forcemeat as that used for the
purpose of binding the roundels, and set to poach under cover.
Turn out, following the same precautions as above; surround the timbale
with a border of nice, pink, Hungarian sauce with paprika, and send a
sauceboat of this sauce to the table at the same time.
=Foie Gras Froid=
1735—ASPIC DE FOIE GRAS
_Clothe_ an even or ornamented mould (fitted with a central tube) with
aspic, and decorate it with poached white of egg and truffle. Fill it
with rows of well-trimmed foie-gras rectangles, or shells raised by
means of a spoon dipped in hot water, separating each row with a coat
of aspic.
Except for its principal ingredient, which may vary, the preparation
of aspic is always the same as that described under “Aspic de Homard”
(No. 954).
For the turning out and dishing, proceed in exactly the same way.
1736—FOIE GRAS GASTRONOME
Take a plain foie-gras Parfait, _i.e._, one without a crust; trim
it neatly to the shape of an egg, and completely cover it with a
chaud-froid sauce with paprika. Decorate it according to fancy, and
glaze it with cold melted jelly.
Cut out a crust, proportionate in size to the egg, and shape it like a
cushion. Coat it with a chaud-froid sauce of a different colour; deck
it with softened butter, applied by means of a piping-bag fitted with a
narrow, grooved pipe; set it on the dish, and place the foie-gras egg
upon it.
Surround the cushion with fine fair-sized truffles, glazed with aspic
jelly.
1737—FOIE GRAS AU PAPRIKA
Trim a fine, fresh foie gras; salt it; sprinkle it with a
coffeespoonful of paprika; put it into a saucepan with a large sliced
Spanish onion and a bay-leaf, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes.
This done, set it instantly in an oval _terrine_, after having
carefully removed every bit of onion; cover it with its own grease;
fill up the _terrine_ with jelly, and leave to cool.
Keep in the cool until ready for serving.
N.B.—In Vienna, where this dish is usually served as a hors-d’œuvre,
with baked potatoes, the onion is not removed. The foie gras is left to
cool in the _terrine_ in which it has cooked, with all its grease, and
it is served thus, very cold.
This piece of information was kindly given to me by Madame Katinka.
1738—ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS MARÉCHALE
From a _terrine_ of very firm foie gras cut the required number of
collops, giving them an oval shape. Make a preparation of “pain de
foie gras” (No. 1741) with the remains of the _terrine_, and cover the
collops with the preparation, shaping the latter in a dome upon them.
Coat these garnished collops with cream chaud-froid sauce; decorate
with a slice of truffle, and glaze with aspic.
With some foie-gras purée prepare some balls (of the shape of
bigaroons); in the centre of each place a little ball of truffle
in imitation of the stone of the fruit, and coat them with a
reddish-brown, chaud-froid sauce. This done, glaze them with jelly.
Dish the collops round a circular cushion, set upon a very cold dish;
arrange the bigaroons in a pyramid on the cushion, and border the dish
with fine, jelly _croûtons_.
1739—MOUSSE DE FOIE GRAS
For the preparation of the _mousse_, see No. 814. The procedure
and the quantities are always the same, and only the principal
ingredient changes. The moulding is also effected in the same way in
a jelly-_clothed_ and decorated mould, generally just large enough to
hold the requisite amount for one service, or in a silver timbale,
incrusted in ice.
1740—MOUSSELINES DE FOIE GRAS
I have oftentimes explained that the substance is the same from which
_mousses_ and _mousselines_ are prepared, and I have pointed out
wherein the difference between them lies.
Just like the other _mousselines_, those of foie gras are made in egg-
or quenelle-moulds, or others of the same kind. Foie-gras _mousselines_
are, according to circumstances, either simply glazed with aspic, or
coated with chaud-froid sauce and dished in a timbale with jelly. They
may also be moulded in little paper cases.
1741—PAIN DE FOIE GRAS
From a cold foie gras, braised in Madeira, cut a few collops and put
them aside. Clear the cooking-liquor of all grease, reduce to half, and
add the yolks of four eggs and one-half lb. of butter, proceeding as
for a Hollandaise sauce. Complete with a grilled, crushed, hazel-nut,
two leaves of dissolved gelatine, and, when the preparation is only
lukewarm, mix therewith (without working the whole overmuch) what
remains of the foie gras, rubbed through a sieve.
Spread this preparation in layers in an aspic-_clothed_ and decorated
mould, separating each layer with other alternate layers consisting of
the reserved collops and some slices of truffle.
Cover the last layer with aspic, and set the mould in a refrigerator
for a few hours.
When about to serve, turn out, and border the dish with fine, aspic
jelly _croûtons_.
1742—PARFAIT DE FOIE GRAS
Fresh foies gras do not bear transport very well, and, when sent from
a distance, often reach their destination tainted. It is, therefore,
difficult, whatever care may have been bestowed on their preparation,
to obtain the results which are achieved by manufacturers who are
renowned for this kind of produce. Consequently, it is preferable to
buy the Parfait of foie gras ready-made from a good firm rather than to
try to make it oneself.
1743—PAVÉ DE FOIE GRAS LUCULLUS
Let a coat of aspic, one-half inch thick, set on the bottom of a square
timbale, and lay thereon a few slices of truffle. Upon this jelly
spread a layer, two-thirds inch thick, of foie-gras purée, thinned by
means of a little melted jelly. When this purée has set, lay on it a
few foie-gras collops and slices of truffle; cover with aspic, and
continue thus with alternate layers of purée, collops, and aspic. Fill
up the mould with a layer of aspic jelly; put it in the refrigerator
for a few hours, and dish on a block of ice, cut to the shape of a
flagstone.
1744—TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS TZARINE
Line a timbale-mould with ordinary patty paste, and cover the inside
all over with slices of larding bacon. Just in the middle set a fresh
foie gras, seasoned with salt, pepper, and allspice; surround it with
quails stuffed with a piece of truffle, and set upright with their
breasts against the slices of bacon. Fill up the mould with whole, raw,
and peeled truffles; cover the whole with a round slice of the same
bacon; cover the timbale with a layer of paste, well sealed down round
the edges; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in
a good, moderate oven for one and one-quarter hours.
On withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into it some succulent
veal stock, flavoured with Madeira, and sufficiently gelatinous to form
a nice jelly.
Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before serving it.
=Ducks and Ducklings (Canards et Canetons)=
Three varieties of the duck family are recognised in cookery, viz., the
Nantes duck, the Rouen duck, and the different kinds of wild duck. The
latter are generally used for roasts and in salmis.
The Rouen duck is also served more often as a roast than as an entrée.
The characteristic trait of its preparation lies in its being kept very
underdone, and it is very rarely braised. It is killed by suffocation,
and not by bleeding, which is the usual mode of killing other birds.
The Nantes duck, which is similar to the Aylesbury one, is not so
fleshy as the Rouen duck, and may be roasted, _poëled_, or braised.
1745—CANETON NANTAIS A LA CHOUCROÛTE
Take a piece of _manied_ butter the size of an egg, and insert it into
the duckling with chopped parsley and shallots. Truss the bird as for
an entrée; brown it in the oven, and put it in a stewpan already lined
for braising.
Moisten, just enough to cover, with white veal stock and Rhine wine
(in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one-third of the
latter), or ordinary good white wine, and braise slowly until cooking
is completed.
Meanwhile, braise in the usual way two lbs. of sauerkraut with
one-half lb. of salted breast of pork.
When it is three-parts done, drain it, and complete its cooking with
one-third pint of veal gravy and one-sixth pint of white wine, until
this moistening is completely reduced.
Set the sauerkraut in a border round a dish, and surround it with the
pork cut into small rectangles. Place the carved duck in the centre,
and coat it moderately with half-glaze sauce combined with the reduced
braising-liquor. Send the remains of this sauce separately.
1746—CANETON D’AYLESBURY POËLÉ A LA MENTHE
Stuff the duckling with one oz. of butter combined with a pinch of
chopped mint, and _poële_ it. Dish it; swill the stewpan with one-sixth
pint of clear, veal gravy and a little lemon juice; strain, add a pinch
of chopped mint, and pour this sauce over the duckling.
1747—CANETON MOLIÈRE
Bone the duckling, and stuff it with one lb. of _gratin_ foie-gras
forcemeat, combined with two-thirds lb. of good sausage-meat. Set two
rows of truffles in the middle of the thickest part of the forcemeat,
lengthwise, along the duckling. Reconstruct; sew up the skin, wrap in a
serviette, after the manner of a galantine, and poach in a stock made
from the carcass.
Glaze the duckling with some of this stock, strained, cleared of all
grease, and reduced. With what remains prepare a Madeira sauce, and add
thereto two oz. of sliced truffles.
Dish the duckling, after having removed all stitches from it, and coat
it with this sauce.
1748—CANETON BRAISÉ AUX NAVETS
Brown the duckling well in butter, and withdraw it from the saucepan.
Drain away the butter; swill with a little white wine; add two-thirds
pint of brown stock, as much Espagnole, and a faggot; return the duck
to this sauce, and braise gently.
With the reserved butter brown one lb. of turnips, shaped like
elongated garlic-cloves, and sprinkle them with a large pinch of
powdered sugar, that they may be glazed to a nice, light brown colour.
Also have ready twenty small onions, which should have been gently
cooked in butter.
When the duckling is half cooked, transfer it to another saucepan; put
the turnips and the onions round it; strain the sauce over the whole,
and complete the cooking gently.
Dish with the garnish of turnips and onions, arranged round the bird.
1749—CANETON AUX OLIVES
Prepare the duckling as above, and keep the sauce short and succulent.
A few minutes before serving, add one-half lb. of stoned and _blanched_
olives. Glaze the duckling at the last moment, and dish it surrounded
with the olives and the sauce.
1750—CANETON BRAISÉ A L’ORANGE
This braised duckling must not be confused with roast duckling, which
is also served “a l’orange,” for the two dishes are quite distinct.
As in the case of the roast, this duckling may be prepared with Seville
oranges; but, in this case, the sections of orange must not appear as
garnish, owing to their bitterness, and only the juice is used for the
sauce.
Braise the duckling in one-third pint of brown stock and two-thirds
pint of Espagnole sauce, and cook it sufficiently to allow of its being
cut with a spoon.
Clear the sauce of grease; reduce it to a stiff consistence; rub it
through tammy, and add the juice of two oranges and one half-lemon to
it, which should bring the sauce back to its original consistence.
Now add a _julienne_ of the _blanched_ yellow part only of the rind of
a half-orange and a half-lemon, but remember that the addition of the
juice and rind of the orange and the half-lemon only takes place at
the last moment, after which the sauce must not boil again. Glaze the
duckling, dish it, coat it slightly with sauce, and surround it with
sections of orange, skinned raw.
Serve what remains of the sauce separately.
1751—CANETON AUX PETITS POIS
Brown in butter six oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into large dice
and _blanched_, and fifteen small onions. Drain the pork and the
onions, and set the duckling to fry in the same butter. When it is
well coloured, remove the butter; swill with a little brown stock, and
add one-half pint of thin, half-glaze sauce, one and one-half pints of
fresh peas, one faggot, the pork dice and the onions, and complete the
cooking of the whole gently.
Dish the duckling, and cover it with the garnish and the sauce, after
having withdrawn the faggot therefrom and reduced the sauce so that it
only just covers the garnish.
1752—PÂTÉ CHAUD DE CANETON
Roast the duckling, keeping it somewhat underdone, and cut the
whole of the breast into long collops or very thin slices. Line a
buttered Charlotte mould with short paste, and cover the whole of the
inside with a layer of _gratin_ forcemeat (No. 202), combined with
four tablespoonfuls of very reduced half-glaze sauce per one and
two-thirds lb. of forcemeat—the necessary quantity for this pie.
On the layer of forcemeat arrange a litter of the slices of breast;
sliced, cooked mushrooms, and slices of truffle; and fill the mould in
this way, taking care to alternate the layers of forcemeat, slices of
breast, &c. Complete with a coat of forcemeat, upon which sprinkle a
pinch of powdered thyme and bay-leaf; close the mould with a thin layer
of paste, sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top; _gild_,
and bake in a moderate oven for one hour.
When taking the pie out of the oven, turn it upside-down on a dish;
detach the base; cut the latter into triangles, and set these
triangles round the pie. Cover the forcemeat, thus bared, with a few
tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce; set a large, grooved, cooked mushroom
just in the middle, and surround it with a crown of sliced truffle.
Serve a Madeira sauce separately.
1753—BALLOTINES DE CANETON
Bone the duckling, and completely clear the bones of all meat.
Remove all tendons from the latter, and chop it, together with half
its weight of veal, as much fresh pork fat, a third as much panada
(No. 190), the yolks of four eggs, one-half oz. of salt, and a little
pepper and nutmeg. Pound; rub through a sieve, and mix with this
forcemeat, three oz. of _gratin_ foie-gras forcemeat and three oz.
of chopped mushrooms, _sautéd_ in butter. Divide up into portions
weighing two oz.; wrap each portion in a piece of the duckling’s skin;
envelop in muslin, and poach in a stock prepared from the duckling’s
carcass. At the last moment, remove the pieces of muslin and glaze the
ballotines.
Dish in a circle, and set the selected garnish, which may be turnips,
peas, olives, or sauerkraut, &c., in the middle.
1754—CANETON ROUENNAIS
Except for the one case when they are served cold “à la cuiller,” Rouen
ducklings are not braised: they are roasted and always kept underdone.
When they have to be stuffed, the forcemeat is prepared as follows:—Fry
four oz. of larding bacon, cut into dice, with one oz. of chopped
onion, and add one-half lb. of sliced ducks’ livers, a pinch of chopped
parsley, salt, pepper, and a little spice.
Keep the livers underdone, merely stiffened; let the whole half-cool;
pound, and rub through a fine sieve.
1755—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS A LA BIGARRADE
_Poële_ the duckling and only just cook it, bearing in mind that
twenty minutes is the time allowed for cooking a fair-sized bird.
Remove the fillets lengthwise, each in ten slices, and set the latter
on a lukewarm dish.
Add a few tablespoonfuls of veal gravy to the _poëling_-liquor; set to
boil for a few minutes; strain clear of grease, and finish as directed
under sauce Bigarrade claire (No. 31).
Cover the slices of breast with some of the sauce, and serve the
remainder separately. “Aiguillettes” (or thin slices of breast cut
lengthwise) à l’orange are prepared in the same way, except that they
are surrounded with sections of orange, skinned raw.
1756—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX CERISES
Prepare the duckling as above, but add a little Madeira to the
braising-liquor. Clear the latter of grease; thicken with arrowroot;
strain through muslin, and add one-half lb. of stoned morello cherries,
at the last moment. Set the cherries round the _aiguillettes_; coat
the latter thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the latter,
separately.
1757—AIGUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX TRUFFES
_Poële_ the duckling, and only just cook it.
Add one-sixth pint of Chambertin wine to the _poëling_-liquor, and
cook therein five medium-sized, peeled truffles. This done, reduce the
liquor, clear of grease, strain it, and add it to a somewhat light
Rouennaise sauce.
Raise the duckling’s _aiguillettes_, slice the truffles, and set on
a lukewarm dish, alternating the _aiguillettes_ with the slices of
truffle.
Coat thinly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter separately.
1758—CANETON ROUENNAIS AU CHAMPAGNE
_Poële_ the duckling as above.
Add one-half pint of dry Saint Marceaux champagne to the
_poëling_-liquor; reduce, and complete with one-sixth pint of
thickened, veal stock.
Strain this sauce through muslin; clear it of grease, and send it in a
sauceboat at the same time as the duckling.
1759—CANETON ROUENNAIS EN CHEMISE
Stuff the duckling with the preparation given under No. 1754; truss
it as for an entrée; insert it into a well-soaked bladder, and string
the end of the latter close to the bird’s tail. Wrap the bladder in a
napkin, also strung, and poach gently for about forty-five minutes in
a very strong brown stock. When about to serve, remove the napkin, and
leave the duckling in the bladder.
Serve a Rouennaise sauce as an accompaniment.
1760—CANETON ROUENNAIS AU PORTO
Roast the duckling “_en casserole_,” keeping it only just done.
Swill with one-fifth pint of port wine; reduce to half, and add this
reduced swilling-liquor to one-half pint of duckling gravy, thickened
with arrowroot.
1761—CANETON ROUENNAIS A LA PRESSE
Roast the duckling for twenty minutes, and send it instantly to the
table, where it should be treated as follows:—Remove the legs, which
are not served; carve the fillets into fine slices, laid one against
the other on a lukewarm dish.
Chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while with a
glassful of good red wine. Collect the gravy; add thereto a few drops
of brandy, and with this liquor sprinkle the slices of breast, which
should have been well seasoned.
Put the dish on a chafer, and thoroughly heat without allowing to boil.
Serve instantly.
1762—CANETON FARCI A LA ROUENNAISE
Stuff the duckling with the forcemeat given under No. 1754, and roast
it before a fierce fire for from twenty-five to thirty minutes,
according to its size.
Send a Rouennaise sauce to the table with it.
If it be served carved, remove the legs, _cisel_ them inside, season
them well with salt and pepper, and grill them.
Cut the fillets into thin slices, set these on either side of a long
dish, and, in the middle, place the forcemeat withdrawn from the inside.
Set the grilled legs at either end of the dish.
Roughly chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while with
a glass of liqueur-brandy and a few drops of lemon juice. Add the
collected gravy to the Rouennaise sauce: coat the slices of breast
thinly with sauce, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.
1763—SALMIS DE CANETON A LA ROUENNAISE
After having suppressed the clavicle, truss the duckling.
Put it in a red oven, where it should only stay eight minutes, _i.e._,
four minutes each side.
If possible, let it cool for a few minutes, that it may be more easily
carved. Take care, also, to wipe it, for, as a rule, the fierceness of
the oven blackens it. Remove the legs; _cisel_ them inside; season and
grill them.
Sprinkle a long, buttered dish with chopped shallots, kitchen salt not
too finely powdered, freshly-ground pepper, nutmeg, and allspice.
Cut the fillets into very thin slices lengthwise, fifteen from each
fillet, and set them one against the other on the dish. Sprinkle them
with the same seasoning as that lying on the dish, except for the
shallots.
Remove the remaining stumps of the wings, as also the small, remaining
skin of the breast; season both, and set them to grill by the side of
the legs. Roughly chop up the carcass; press it while sprinkling it
with half a glassful of red wine, and sprinkle the slices of breast
with the collected gravy.
When about to serve, set a few small pieces of butter on the slices of
breast; heat for a moment on the stove, and put the dish in a very hot
oven, or at the salamander, that the glazing may be instantaneous.