Cut three lbs. of ribs or shoulder of beef into squares weighing
about three oz. each. Fry these pieces on a moderate fire in four oz.
of lard, together with one-half lb. of onions cut into large dice,
until the latter acquire a nice, even, golden colour. Season with
one-third oz. of salt and the necessary quantity of paprika; add one
and one-quarter lbs. of peeled, pressed, and quartered tomatoes, and
one-sixth pint of water.
Cover and cook in the oven for one and one-half hours.
This done, add one-third pint of water and one and one-quarter lbs. of
quartered potatoes to the Goulash.
Continue the cooking in the oven, basting often the while, and do not
stop the operation until the moistening-liquor is entirely reduced.
When about to serve, dish the Goulash in a timbale.
1178—HACHIS DE BŒUF A L’AMÉRICAINE
Cut the meat into small cubes.
Also cut into dice the same weight of potatoes as of meat.
Season these potatoes and toss them in butter.
This done, put half their quantity into a saucepan with the meat
dice, and cohere the whole with a few tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce
and reduced veal gravy. Heat without allowing to boil; dish in a
hot timbale; distribute the remainder of the potatoes, which should
be crisply fried, over the hash, and sprinkle with a pinch of
freshly-chopped parsley.
1179—HACHIS DE BŒUF PARMENTIER
Bake some fine potatoes in the oven.
The moment they are done, slice off a piece of their baked shell, and
remove the pulp from their insides by means of a spoon handle.
Crush this pulp with a fork, and toss it in butter as for “pommes de
terre Macaire.” Then add to it as much beef in dice as there is pulp;
two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion cooked in butter per lb. of the
preparation; a pinch of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegar.
Now toss the whole together for a few minutes, and then fill the empty
potato shells with the preparation.
Sprinkle with Lyonnaise sauce rubbed through tammy, and add as much of
it as the hash will absorb.
Replace the portion of shell cut off at the first, that the potatoes
may seem untouched; arrange them on a dish, and put the latter in the
oven for ten minutes. When about to serve, dish the stuffed potatoes on
a napkin.
1180—TRIPES A LA MODE DE CAEN
In the preparation of this culinary speciality of Normandy, a very
common mistake is often made; to wit, that of using calves’ feet
instead of those of the ox, an innovation to which there are many
objections.
In the first place, the gravy of the tripe cannot absorb so much
gelatine, and is indifferently thickened in consequence; secondly,
since calves’ feet are much more tender than those of the ox, the
former get boiled to shreds before the cooking of the tripe has been
properly effected. This supposed improvement on the old method is thus
seen to actually run counter to the end in view; but means there are,
nevertheless, whereby those who insist upon the use of calves’ feet may
be satisfied. It is only necessary to braise a number of calves’ feet
beforehand, the number being in proportion to the quantity of tripe,
and to add these to the latter a quarter of an hour before serving.
Another mistake which obtains somewhat widely in respect of this dish
is the serving of it in a silver utensil—a method quite as unreasonable
as that of serving a Chaudfroid in an earthenware dish.
By virtue of its simplicity, tripe should be served in either sandstone
or special earthenware stewpans, wherein heat is best retained; and the
operator should rather direct his attention to the serving of tripe as
hot as possible, than to this or that fanciful method of dishing, which
really has no raison d’être in this case.
_The Preparation of Tripe._—Under the head of “beef tripe” are
understood: (1) The feet; (2) tripe proper, which comprises the Paunch,
the Honey-comb Bag, the Manyplies, and the Reed.
First soak the tripe in cold water for some considerable time; then
cut it into squares of two inches side.
For the seasoning and flavouring of tripe, complete in all its parts,
take: (Seasoning) one-quarter oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper
per lb.; (flavouring) four lbs. of onions stuck with four cloves;
three lbs. of carrots; one faggot, comprising two lbs. of leeks,
one-third lb. of parsley stalks, a sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf.
Moisten with two quarts of good cider (not likely to turn black while
cooking, otherwise use water); one-half pint of brandy or liqueur-cider.
The quantity of the moistening-liquor largely depends upon the shape of
the utensil; a little less will be needed in the case of a narrow one,
and a little more in the case of a wide one.
In any case, however, the tripe should be just covered.
_Treatment and Cooking-process._—Take a stewpan or braising-pan, just
large enough to hold the tripe and the garnish.
On the bottom of this lay carrots, onions, seasoning, and the four ox
feet, bound and cut into fair-sized pieces.
Add the tripe, placing the faggot in its midst; upon the tripe lay the
bones of the feet, broken lengthwise; some slices of beef-fat, well
soaked in cold water; and, finally, the moistening.
Cover the whole with a kind of _galette_ of paste, consisting of flour
mixed with hot water and kept somewhat stiff, and fix the paste well on
to the edges of the utensil.
Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed and the paste
is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.
In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for the cooking.
_The Dishing and Serving._—After taking the tripe out of the oven,
remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the carrots, the
onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice withdraw the pieces of
tripe and set them in the special earthenware bowls, taking care to
distribute the pieces, coming from different portions of tripe, in such
wise as to meet the demands or fancies of the various consumers.
When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the gravy of
all grease, and dole it out evenly among the number of receptacles. It
is best, now, to put the latter in a _bain-marie_, for they must only
be served quite hot, on chafers or otherwise.
N.B.—(1) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should be put
into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more effectively
concentrated), and cooked in a baker’s or pastry-cook’s oven.
I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan in order to
make provision for those who can avail themselves of neither special
pots nor a baker’s oven.
(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying the slices
of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the whole with a lid of
paste, are intended to stop a too rapid evaporation of the liquid—a
contingency that must be guarded against, more particularly in a
kitchen oven—and to preserve the whiteness of the tripe.
The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker’s oven were
available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular heat, but
also wanes regularly.
2. VEAL.
With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this
meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it
ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.
Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is
admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft,
and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect
cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so
famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce
veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought
it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business.
Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes
from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland;
and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to
those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the
continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the
English produce.
1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé)
Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes
allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid
and succulent joint.
It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising
treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the
fine stock yielded by the operation.
Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush
with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other
side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the
under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in
such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on
either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank
should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has
been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of
bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and
the flank may not shift.
When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of
it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the
joint may be cut in two, lengthwise.
The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions
given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248).
The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or
other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c.,
demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and
should always be carried on with short moistening.
1182—SELLE DE VEAU A LA CHARTREUSE
Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having
removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of
the latter, place a _chartreuse_ of vegetables.
Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor,
cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what
remains in a sauceboat.
_Chartreuses of Vegetables._—Take two dome- or Charlotte-moulds,
capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally; line
them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides
of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of
which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This
operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the
plan of a draught-board, or the different vegetables may be superposed
in alternate rows of varying colours.
When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon, over the
vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten white of egg; the
object of this measure is to keep the vegetable decoration in position,
and this is effected by the poaching of the forcemeat before the
chartreuse is filled with its garnish.
This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with
a Macédoine of vegetables cohered by means of stiff Béchamel and cream,
and cover with a layer of forcemeat.
Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before serving, and
take care to let them rest for five minutes before unmoulding them on
either side of the saddle.
1183—SELLE DE VEAU A LA METTERNICH
Braise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish. Now draw a
line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on either side and end,
pressing the point of a small knife along the meat in so doing.
Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and remove the
fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone with care.
Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife somewhat at a
slant.
In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of
Béchamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets to their respective
places in the joint, reconstructing them in such wise as to make them
appear untouched; and between the collops pour one-half tablespoonful
of Béchamel and lay two slices of truffle.
This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with Béchamel sauce
with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the salamander. Now, with a
large slice, carefully transfer the saddle to a dish.
Serve separately (1) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared of all
grease and reduced; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice.
1184—SELLE DE VEAU A LA NELSON
Braise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets, proceeding
exactly as described under “Selle à la Metternich,” and cut the fillets
in a similar manner.
In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of
Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and, between the
collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size and shape as the
adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise sauce.
Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a layer, about
one inch thick, of “Soufflé au Parmesan,” combined with one quart of
truffle purée.
Bind the joint with a strong band of buttered paper, for the purpose
of holding in the _soufflé_, and set it to cook in a moderate oven for
fifteen minutes. After having taken the saddle out of the oven, remove
the paper band, and send it to the table without changing the dish.
Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained,
to the table separately.
1185—SELLE DE VEAU A L’ORIENTALE
Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut them into collops as for
“Selle à la Metternich.” Garnish the cavities with Soubise sauce “au
currie”; reconstruct the fillets, putting a little of the same sauce
between the collops, and coat the surface of the piece with the sauce
already referred to.
Surround the joint with braised celery, and serve its cooking liquor
and a timbale of pilaff rice separately.
1186—SELLE DE VEAU A LA PIÉMONTAISE
Braise the saddle, and cut the fillets into collops as before. When
reconstructing the fillets, between the collops put a little Béchamel
sauce, combined with three and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan and
three and one-half oz. of grated white truffles per quart of the sauce.
Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce, and set to glaze
quickly.
Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained,
separately; as also a timbale of rizotto à la Piémontaise (No. 2258).
1187—SELLE DE VEAU PRINCE ORLOFF
Braise the saddle and proceed as above, placing between the collops of
fillet a little Soubise sauce and a fine slice of truffle.
Coat the surface of the joint with Mornay sauce, combined with one
quart of highly-seasoned Soubise, and set to glaze quickly.
N.B.—This saddle may be accompanied either by a garnish of
asparagus-heads or by cucumbers with cream.
1188—SELLE DE VEAU A LA ROMANOFF
Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut the latter into collops
as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Reconstruct the fillets, placing
a small quantity of minced mushrooms, cohered by means of a few
tablespoonfuls of cream, between the collops, and coat the surface of
the joint with highly-seasoned Béchamel sauce, finished with four oz.
of crayfish butter per quart.
Surround the piece with a border of braised half-fennels. Serve
the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained,
separately.
1189—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TOSCA
Braise the saddle, and then prepare it as for No. 1183. Almost
completely fill the cavities left by the fillets with a garnish of
macaroni, cut into short lengths, cohered with cream, and combined with
a _julienne_ of truffles.
Reconstruct the fillets upon this garnish and coat the collops with
Mornay sauce, placing a slice of truffle between the collops. The
reconstructed fillets thus appear raised on either side of the chine.
Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce as that already used,
and set to glaze quickly. Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all
grease and strained, to the table separately.
1190—SELLE DE VEAU A LA RENAISSANCE
Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it and
surround it with a large heap of cauliflower at either end; on either
side, nice heaps of carrots and turnips, raised by means of an oval,
grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; peas; French beans
in lozenge-form; asparagus-heads cohered with butter; and some small
potatoes cooked in butter.
Send the braising-liquor of the joint, cleared of grease and strained,
separately.
1191—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TALLEYRAND
Prepare twenty studs of truffle, about one inch long and one-third oz.
in weight. Stick them upright and symmetrically into the meat of the
joint, making way for them by means of little incisions cut with a
small knife. Now envelop the joint in slices of larding bacon, string
it, braise it, and glaze it at the last moment.
Dish it with some of its braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and
reduced.
Serve separately (1) what remains of the braising-liquor; (2) a
garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with one and
one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan,
combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into large dice, and
three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles, per lb. of macaroni.
1192—SELLE DE VEAU FROIDE
Cold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which admits of
all cold-dish garnishes, such as Macédoines of vegetables cohered with
jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-bottoms and tomatoes, variously
garnished; small, moulded vegetable salads, &c.
Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice; but its usual and essential
adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of grease poured
carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without having been either
clarified or cleared.
All the pieces of veal given as relevés, the cushion, the loin, the
fillet, and the fricandeau, may be served cold like the saddle, and are
generally much appreciated, more particularly in summer.
1193—LOIN OF VEAL
1194—NECK OF VEAL
1195—SHORT LOIN OF VEAL
1196—CHUMP OF VEAL OR QUASI
1197—CUSHION OF VEAL (Relevés)
I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the
identicalness of their garnishes.
The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few
exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal
joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary
to repeat the recipe in each case.
_Loin of Veal_ is that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in
beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the
haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction
with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The
loin thus consists of two distinct parts:—(1) the caudal region (called
the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis
and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the
best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from
the haunch to the floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper
fillet. This last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the
kidneys are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat
has been removed.
_Neck or Best End of Veal_ consists of the first eight or nine ribs,
cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the rib-bones are
cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds inch, and the naked
bone is then called the “handle” of the cutlet, which ultimately holds
the ornamental frill of paper.
The vertebræ are then suppressed, so that the bones of the ribs alone
remain; the yellow ligament is cut away; and the bared parts are
covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means of string.
_Cushion of Veal_ consists of an enormous muscle, which represents
almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of it, from the
pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain quantity of white
fat will always be found to lie over the cushion, and it should be
carefully reserved.
If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not advise, it
should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat-covered region.
The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted, but,
as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to the
greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process, and its
accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable flavour. (See Braising of
White Meats, No. 248.)
1198—ADJUNCTS TO CUSHION OF VEAL
Cushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits of an
almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple or compound, as
also garnishes of various pastes.
From among these garnishes the following may be quoted,
viz.:—Bouquetière, Bourgeoise, Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons,
Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives,
Spinach, Braised Lettuce, à la Vichy, à la Nemours, &c.; Jardinière,
Macédoine, Renaissance, &c.
Among the paste garnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spaghetti, variously
prepared; various Gnocchi, &c.
And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef
Relevés, which need not be repeated here.
I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion
of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities,
seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as
gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish
tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes.
1199—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE
Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it
on a dish, and let it almost cool.
Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its
height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a
circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat,
and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same
thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about
one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the
appearance of a round or oval case.
If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for
the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from
out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may
easily be cut therefrom.
The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according
to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is
returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched
appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it
may be hot for serving.
The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to
the table separately.
1200—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA MACÉDOINE
Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above.
Meanwhile (1) prepare a _Macédoine_ garnish, or mixed _Jardinière_
(cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in
proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from
the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles.
Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer of _Macédoine_, and set
thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover with
_Macédoine_; set thereon another litter of the pieces of meat, and
renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer of
_Macédoine_.
Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case
in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braising-liquor
separately.
1201—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA PITHIVIERS
Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above.
Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of
stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter
with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of
which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the
necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence;
put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place;
seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid
forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes.
When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn
meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until
required for the dressing.
The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds,
but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the
title of the dish.
1202—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA TOULOUSAINE
Braise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as explained
above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken
forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal sweetbreads, braised
without colouration; cocks’ combs; small mushrooms, cooked and very
white; and slices of truffle; the whole to be cohered by means of an
Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.
Return the piece sliced off at the start to its place, and surround
with slices of the meat withdrawn from the inside of the cushion.
N.B.—All the garnishes suited to Vol-au-vent and timbales may be served
with cushion-of-veal case, which latter thus stands in the stead of the
Vol-au-vent and Timbale crusts.
Finally, I must ask the reader to bear in mind that methods like those
described above have no place in really good cookery, the ruling
principle of which should always be simplicity.
1203—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA CAUCASIENNE
Cut a cold cushion of veal into slices two inches long by one-half inch
wide by one-sixth inch thick.
On each slice spread a little butter seasoned with salt and pepper,
combined with finely-chopped chives and anchovy fillets cut into dice.
Couple the slices together as for sandwiches; round off their angles
and put them under slight pressure. Prepare a Purée of tomatoes with
jelly; mould it in a dome- or Bombe-mould, and let it set on ice.
When this moulding of tomatoes is quite firm, turn it out in the middle
of a round, cold dish; arrange the meat slices all round, and border
the dish with cubes of very clear veal jelly.
1204—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA SUÉDOISE
(1) From the widest part of a cold cushion of veal, cut a lateral slice
one and one-third inch thick, and trim it nicely round.
(2) Let a coating of aspic jelly set on the bottom of a round dish, and
upon this jelly, when it is quite firm, lay the slice of veal.
(3) Cut what remains of the piece of veal into slices two inches long,
by one and one-half inch broad, by one-eighth inch thick. Prepare the
same number of rectangles of salted tongue, of the same size, though
slightly thinner than those of veal.
(4) Cohere a nice vegetable salad with cleared mayonnaise; mould it in
an oiled, Bombe-shaped or narrow pyramid mould, and put it on ice to
set.
Coat the rectangles of veal with horse-radish butter; place a rectangle
of tongue on each, and finish off these sandwiches by rounding their
corners.
_For Dishing._—By means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe,
garnish the edges of the slice of veal with a thread of previously
softened butter.
Turn out the vegetable salad in the centre of the piece of meat; set on
it the heart of a small lettuce (nicely opened), and arrange the veal
and tongue sandwiches all round.
Serve a cold sauce, derived from the mayonnaise, separately.
1205—LONGES, CARRÉS ET NOIX DE VEAU FROIDS
What was said in respect of cold saddle of veal likewise applies to
the different pieces mentioned in the above title. They may be coated
with aspic jelly and dished with _Macédoines_ of vegetables, cohered
with jelly; small salads, cohered with cleared mayonnaise; garnished
artichoke-bottoms, &c.
The dishes should always be bordered with cubes of very clear jelly.
1206—FRICANDEAU (Relevé)
Fricandeau is a lateral cut from the cushion of veal; that is to say, a
piece cut with the grain of the meat. It should not be thicker than one
and one-half inches.
After beating it with a beater or the flat of a chopper, to break the
fibres of the meat, finely lard the piece of meat on the cut side with
strips of bacon, somewhat smaller than those used for fillet of beef.
Only when the piece is larded may it be called “Fricandeau”; for, when
not treated thus, it is nothing else than an ordinary piece of veal.
Fricandeau is invariably braised; but it differs from other braisings
of white meat in this, namely, that it must be so cooked as to be
easily cut with a spoon. Connoisseurs maintain that Fricandeau should
never be touched with a knife.
It is glazed at the last moment, like other braisings, and, in view of
its prolonged cooking, should be dished with great care.
All the garnishes enumerated for cushion of veal may be adapted to
Fricandeau.
1207—FRICANDEAU FROID
Cold fricandeau constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. It is dished
and surrounded with its braising-liquor, cleared of grease and
strained. This braising-liquor sets to a jelly, and is the finest
adjunct to fricandeau that could be found.
The piece may be glazed with half-melted jelly, smeared over it by
means of a brush.
1208—POITRINE DE VEAU FARCIE
This is really a family dish, admirably suited for a luncheon relevé.
It is accompanied chiefly by vegetable purées, but all the vegetable
and other garnishes given under Cushion of Veal may be served with it.
Breast of veal is prepared thus:—After having boned the piece, open it
where it is thickest, without touching the ends. A kind of pocket is
thus obtained, into which put the previously-prepared stuffing, taking
care to spread it very evenly.
Now, with coarse cotton, sew up the opening, and remember to withdraw
the cotton when the piece is cooked.
_Stuffing for Breast of Veal._—For a piece weighing four lbs., add to
one lb. of very fine sausage-meat (No. 196), two oz. of dry _duxelles_,
two oz. of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, a
small beaten egg, and a little salt and pepper.
_Cooking._—Breast of veal is usually braised; the moistening should be
short and the cooking process gentle. For a piece weighing four lbs.
when stuffed, allow three hours in a moderate and regular oven. Glaze
breast of veal at the last moment, as in the case of other braised
meats.
1209—TÊTE DE VEAU (Relevé and Entrée)
Nowadays, calf’s head is rarely served whole, as was the custom
formerly. Still more rarely, however, is it served at a dinner of any
importance; and it has now, by almost general consent, been relegated
to luncheon menus where, indeed, it has found its proper place.
After having boned the head, soak it or hold it under a running tap,
for a sufficiently long time to allow of its being entirely cleared of
blood. Then, blanch it for a good half-hour; cool it in cold water;
drain it, and rub it with a piece of lemon to avoid its blackening.
If it is to be cooked whole, as sometimes happens, wrap it in a napkin,
that it may be easily handled; if not, cut it into pieces. In either
case, plunge it immediately into a boiling _blanc_ (No. 167).
With a view of keeping the calf’s head from contact with the air, which
would blacken it, cover it with a napkin, or cover the liquid with
chopped suet. A layer of chopped suet is the best possible means of
keeping the air from the calf’s head.
Whatever be the method of serving calf’s head, it is the rule to send
slices of tongue and collops of brain to the table with it.
The tongue may be cooked simultaneously with the head, and the brain is
poached as described under No. 1289.
1210—TÊTE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE
Calf’s head _à l’anglaise_ is cooked in a _blanc_, as explained above;
but in halves and unboned.
Dish it on a napkin with sprays of very green parsley and a piece of
boiled bacon.
Send a sauceboat of parsley sauce (No. 119a) to the table at the same
time.
1211—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE
Cook the calf’s head in a _blanc_ as already directed. Suppress
portions of the meat, where the latter is thick, in such wise as to
leave only a very little on the skin.
Cut off pieces into squares of one, two or three in. side; put them in
a timbale, and cover them with a financière garnish; adding a few small
slices of tongue and brain.
1212—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA POULETTE
Cook the calf’s head in a _blanc_.
Cut the pieces of the head into small slices, somewhat aslant, and toss
them into a previously-prepared poulette sauce (No. 101).
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
1213—TÊTE DE VEAU EN TORTUE
With a round cutter one, two, or three in. in diameter, cut up the
pieces of calf’s head, the meat of which must be entirely suppressed.
For this preparation, only the skin of the head should be used.
Put the pieces of head in a timbale or on a dish, and cover them with a
Tortue garnish.
_Tortue garnish consists of_: Small quenelles of veal forcemeat with
butter; cock’s combs and kidneys; small mushrooms; stoned, stuffed and
poached olives; slices of truffle; gherkins cut to the shape of olives
(these should only be put into the sauce at the last moment); and
Tortue sauce.
This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingredients: Slices
of tongue and calf’s brain; small, trussed crayfish, cooked in
_court-bouillon_; fried eggs, the half of whose raw whites should be
suppressed; and small _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, fried in butter at the
last moment.
1214—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA VINAIGRETTE OU A L’HUILE
Set the boiling pieces of calf’s head on a napkin, lying on a dish.
Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain, and sprigs of
very green, curled-leaf parsley.
Serve separately, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, without mixing them, capers,
chopped onion and parsley.
Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinaigrette or sauce
à l’huile, prepared by mixing one part of vinegar, two parts of oil,
and one part of the calf’s-head cooking-liquor, together with the
necessary salt and pepper.
1215—ESCALOPES DE VEAU
Collops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the saddle; but
they are more often cut from the cushion. Their weight varies from
three to four oz., and they should always be cleared of all connective
tissue. They may be fashioned to the shape of ovals, or curve-based
triangles, and they should be more or less flattened, according to
their use. Thus, when they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards
served with a sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten
in order to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the
latter too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treated _à
l’anglaise_, they should be beaten very thin with the moistened beater.
In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in clarified
butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat hardens.
All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of those of the
cushion, may be served with the collops. These garnishes may be set on
the same dish with the collops when the latter are plainly tossed; but,
in the case of collops treated _à l’anglaise_, the garnish or sauce
which accompanies them should be served separately, lest its moisture
soften the crisp coating of the collops.
1216—GRENADINS
Grenadins are veal collops larded with rows of very thin bacon
strips, and cut somewhat thicker than ordinary collops. They are
really small fricandeaux, the braising of which is a comparatively
lengthy operation; for their cooking must be the same as that of the
fricandeaux, and needs quite as much attention. In order that the
grenadins be not too dry, they should be frequently basted with their
braising-liquor.
When they are cooked, glaze them rapidly, and dish them with one of the
garnishes given for the cushion of veal.
1217—GRENADINS FROIDS EN BELLEVUE
This dish may be prepared in several more or less complicated ways;
here is a simple way:—
Take as many shell-shaped hors-d’œuvre dishes as there are grenadins.
Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each, and set thereon
a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot, turnip, peas, French
beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a grenadin, larded side undermost
(_i.e._, upside down) into each hors-d’œuvre dish; add enough melted
aspic jelly to reach half-way up the thickness of the grenadin.
When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin, a border
consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas. Sprinkle these
vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to fix them, and keep them
from floating, and then fill up the hors-d’œuvre dishes with jelly.
When about to serve, dip the hors-d’œuvre dishes into hot water; turn
out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange them on it to form a
crown.
Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly.
1218—RIS DE VEAU (Sweetbreads)
Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest delicacies
in butchers’ meats, and may be served at any dinner, however sumptuous.
Select them very white, entirely free of blood stains, and leave them
to soak in fresh water, which should be frequently changed, for as long
as possible; or, better still, place them under a running tap.
To _blanch_ them (an operation the purpose of which is to harden
the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover
them completely, and bring to the boil gently. Let them boil for ten
minutes; withdraw them and plunge them into a basin of fresh water.
When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them; that is to say, cut away all
cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them between two pieces of
linen, and put them under a light weight for two hours.
Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to the way
in which they are to be served. They may also be studded with either
tongue or truffles, or they may be left unlarded and unstudded, and
plainly braised, just as they are.
Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in any way
whatsoever their quality or sightliness.
Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality as in
shape. They are: the “kernel” or heart sweetbread, which is the round
and most delicate part, and the “throat,” or throat sweetbread, which
is the elongated part, and not of such fine quality as the former.
In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be used, as far
as possible.
There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads, viz.:—Braising (No. 248),
poaching (No. 249), and grilling (No. 259). In the following recipes,
therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the directions given under
one of the numbers just mentioned, according as to whether the dish is
to be a braising, a poaching, or a grill.
1219—ATTEREAUX DE RIS DE VEAU A LA VILLEROY
Cut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into roundels
one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in. thick. Prepare an
equal number of mushrooms and truffle roundels, somewhat thinner than
those of sweetbread.
Impale these roundels on little wooden skewers, the size of matches,
and about four in. long; alternating the different products in so
doing. Dip these skewers into a Villeroy sauce, and set them on a dish.
When the sauce is quite cold, remove the attereaux; clear them of any
superfluous sauce that may have fallen on to the dish; dip them in an
_anglaise_ (No. 174); roll them in very fine and fresh bread-crumbs,
and turn them with the fingers, so as to shape them like small
cylinders. Plunge them into plenty of hot fat eight minutes before
serving; drain them on a piece of linen; carefully withdraw the wooden
skewers and put little silver ones in their place. Dish the attereaux
on a folded napkin, with fried parsley in the centre; or set them
upright in a circle, on a rice or semolina cushion lying on a dish, and
put some very green, fried parsley in the middle.
Serve a Périgueux sauce separately.
1220—CHARTREUSE DE RIS DE VEAU
Prepare (1) one and one-quarter lbs. of fine forcemeat with cream
(No. 194); (2) two poached, veal throat sweetbreads, cut into slices;
(3) one-half lb. of cooked mushrooms, cut into large slices, and
three oz. of sliced truffles; (4) a garnish of carrots and turnips,
raised by means of a tube- or spoon-cutter, or cut into grooved
roundels two-thirds inch in diameter; and peas and French beans. Each
of these vegetables should be cooked in a way befitting its nature, and
kept somewhat firm.
Liberally butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Line its bottom and sides
with the vegetables, arranged in alternate and vari-coloured rows, and
spread thereon a layer of forcemeat, one-half inch thick.
This done, set upon the layer of forcemeat just spread, another of
slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles; cover the whole with
a coat of forcemeat; start the operation again with a litter of
sweetbread, mushroom, and truffle slices, and proceed as before until
the mould is filled. Finish with a layer of forcemeat. Cover with a
round piece of buttered paper, and set to poach in a _bain-marie_ and
in the oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.
When taking the _chartreuse_ out of the _bain-marie_, let it stand
for seven or eight minutes, that the ingredients inside may settle
a little, and then turn it out in the middle of a round dish; place
a large, cooked, grooved, and very white mushroom on the top of it,
and encircle its base with a crown of small braised and well-trimmed
half-lettuces.
Send to the table, separately, a sauceboat of Velouté flavoured with
mushroom essence.
1221—RIS DE VEAU BONNE MAMAN
Cut the vegetables intended for the braising stock into a short and
coarse _julienne_, and add thereto an equal quantity of similarly-cut
celery.
Braise the veal sweetbreads with this _julienne_, after the manner
described under No. 248, and moisten with excellent veal stock. Take
particular care of the vegetables, that they do not burn.
When the sweetbreads are ready, glaze them and dish them in a
shallow, round _cocotte_ with the _julienne_ of vegetables and the
braising-liquor all round.
Cover the _cocotte_, and serve it on a folded napkin.
1222—CRÉPINETTE DE RIS DE VEAU
For this dish take either some white throat sweetbreads, or some
remains of the latter, from which slices have already been cut.
Chop up the throat sweetbreads or the remains, together with their
weight of raw calf’s udder.
Season with one-half oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; add five oz.
of chopped truffles and two whole eggs per lb. of the mince-meat. Mix
the whole well; divide it up into portions weighing three oz., and wrap
each portion in a piece of very soft pig’s caul.
Sprinkle with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill gently.
Dish in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same
time.
1223—RIS DE VEAU A LA CÉVENOLE
Braise the veal sweetbreads and glaze them at the last moment.
Dish them with a heap of small glazed onions at either end, and serve,
at the same time, a purée of chestnuts and a sauceboat of thickened
gravy.
1224—RIS DE VEAU DEMIDOFF
Lard the sweetbreads with bacon and truffles; braise them brown, and
only half-cook them. Then place them in a shallow _cocotte_, and
surround them with the following garnish:—Two oz. of carrots and the
same weight of turnips, both cut into grooved crescents; an equal
quantity of small onions, cut into large roundels, and some celery cut
_paysanne_-fashion. All these vegetables should be first stewed in
butter.
Add the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, and one oz. of minced
truffles, and complete the cooking of the former. Clear of all grease
and serve in the _cocotte_.
1225—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU BÉRENGÈRE
Braise the veal sweetbreads and cut each piece into four medium-sized
slices. Trim each slice with an even, oval fancy-cutter; and, by means
of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, one-sixth inch in diameter,
garnish the edge of each slice with a thick border of _mousseline_
forcemeat, combined with chopped salted tongue. Set the slices on a
tray, and put them in a moderate oven to poach the forcemeat.
Now, by means of another piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish
the centre of the slices with a nice rosette of fine and very white
Soubise purée; and, in the middle of each rosette, place a little ball
of very black truffle.
Set each slice on a thin, oval _croûton_ of the same size as the
former and fried in butter. Serve at the same time, in a sauceboat,
the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, cleared of all grease, and a
timbale of fresh peas.
1226—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FAVORITE
_Blanch_ the veal sweetbreads; cool them under pressure, and cut them
into slices. Season the latter and toss them in clarified butter.
At the same time, toss an equal number of slices of foie gras of the
same size as those of the sweetbread, after having seasoned and dredged
them.
Dish in a circle, alternating the foie gras and the sweetbread slices;
put a crown of sliced truffle on the circle already arranged; and, in
the centre, pour a garnish of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
Send, separately, a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.
1227—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU GRAND DUC
_Blanch_ and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices. Season the
latter and cook them in butter without colouration. Dish them in the
form of a crown, placing a large slice of truffle between each; coat
with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.
When taking the dish out of the oven, arrange a heap of asparagus-heads
cohered with butter, in the middle of the dish, and serve instantly.
1228—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU JUDIC
_Blanch_ and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices.
Prepare and poach a roll of chicken forcemeat, large enough to allow of
slices being cut therefrom of the same size as those of the sweetbreads.
Season, dredge, and toss the slices of sweetbread in butter, and dish
them in the form of a crown, each on a roundel of the poached chicken
forcemeat.
On each slice place a very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuce, a
slice of truffle, and a cock’s kidney.
Send a sauceboat of thickened gravy separately.
1229—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA MARÉCHALE
Braise the veal sweetbreads, keeping them somewhat firm, and cut them
into slices.
Treat the latter _à l’anglaise_; brown them in clarified butter, and
dish them in a circle, placing a fine slice of truffle between each.
In the middle of the dish arrange a fine heap of asparagus-heads
cohered with butter.
1230—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS
After having _blanched_, cooked, and trimmed the sweetbreads, set them
to get quite cold under pressure. Then cut them in two, laterally, at
their thickest point; dip each piece into melted butter, and grill
gently, basting frequently the while with melted butter.
The sweetbreads may also be grilled whole, but the process is perforce
a more lengthy one.
1231—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS CARMAGO
Cook a brioche, without sugar, in a fluted mould, the aperture of which
is a little larger than the veal sweetbreads. Carefully remove the top
of the brioche, following the direction of the fluting, and withdraw
all the crumb from the inside.
Fill this kind of _croustade_, two-thirds full, with a garnish
consisting of peas, prepared “à la française,” and carrots “à la
Vichy,” in equal quantities.
Set the grilled veal sweetbreads on this garnish, and cover it with
slices of grilled bacon.
Dish on a napkin and serve at once.
1232—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ GISMONDA
Prepare a shallow _croustade_, without colouration, in an oval flawn
ring of the same length as the veal sweetbread. Grill the veal
sweetbread after the manner already described.
Garnish the bottom of the _croustade_ with equal quantities of
artichoke-bottoms and mushrooms, minced raw, tossed in butter, and
cohered with cream sauce.
Set the grilled sweetbread on the garnish, and place the _croustade_ on
a folded napkin.
Serve, separately, a slightly buttered meat-glaze.
1233—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ JOCELYNE
Cut some potatoes into roundels one and one-half inch thick and of the
same size as the veal sweetbread. Stamp the roundels, close up to their
edges, with a round, even cutter, and cook them in butter. Grill the
sweetbread at the same time.
When the potatoes are cooked, withdraw all their inside in such wise
as to give them the appearance of cases, and fill them with Soubise
prepared with curry.
Dish them and set the grilled sweetbread upon them. On the sweetbread
lay a small half-tomato and a green half-capsicum, both grilled.
1234—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS SAINT-GERMAIN
_Blanch_, prepare, and grill the veal sweetbreads as already explained.
Set them on a long dish, and surround them with alternate heaps of
small potatoes cooked in butter and of a nice golden colour, and
carrots cut to the shape of elongated olives, cooked in consommé and
glazed.
Serve a Béarnaise sauce and a purée of fresh peas, separately.
1235—RIS DE VEAU DES GOURMETS
Braise the veal sweetbreads, and, as soon as they are ready, set them
in a round, flat _cocotte_, just large enough to hold them. Cover them
with raw truffles, cut into thick slices; strain the braising-liquor
over the whole; cover the _cocotte_, and seal the cover to the edges
of the utensil by means of a thread of soft paste, made simply from a
mixture of flour and water.
The object of this last precaution is to prevent any escape whatsoever
of steam, and to hold the aroma of the truffles within.
Put the _cocotte_ into a very hot oven for ten minutes; set it on a
dish, and serve it as it stands. The cover should be removed only when
the dish reaches the table.
1236—RIS DE VEAU AUX QUEUES D’ÉCREVISSES
Stud the sweetbreads with truffle and braise them without colouration.
Dish them, and, on either side, set a heap of crayfishes’ tails (in the
proportion of four to each person), cohered with cream.
At either end place some crayfishes’ carapaces (in the proportion of
two to each sweetbread), garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with
crayfish butter, and poached.
Serve, separately, an Allemande sauce prepared with crayfish butter.
1237—RIS DE VEAU A LA RÉGENCE
Stud the sweetbreads with truffles, and braise them without colouration.
Dish them; pour their reduced braising-liquor round the dish, and
surround them with a Régence garnish, arranged in alternate heaps
representing the constituents of the former, which are: quenelles of
fine truffled chicken forcemeat; small grooved mushrooms; curled cocks’
combs, and truffles cut to the shape of olives. Serve separately an
Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.
1238—RIS DE VEAU SOUS LA CENDRE
Stud the veal sweetbreads with truffles and tongue, and three-parts
braise them.
Cut some slices of salted tongue of the same size as the sweetbreads,
garnish them with slices of truffle, and set a sweetbread on each.
Cover each sweetbread with a layer of short paste (No. 2358); set them
on a tray; _gild_; flute; make a small incision on the top of the paste
to allow the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes.
When withdrawing them from the oven, pour in some half-glaze sauce with
Madeira, and dish them on a napkin.
1239—RIS DE VEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE
Stud the sweetbreads with truffles and braise them without colouration.
Dish them with the Toulousaine garnish, arranged in heaps all round,
and surround the latter with a thread of meat-glaze.
_Toulousaine garnish_ comprises small chicken-forcemeat quenelles;
cocks’ combs and kidneys; very white button-mushroom heads, and slices
of truffle.
Serve, separately, an Allemande flavoured with mushroom essence.
1240—CROUSTADE DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE
Prepare (1) the required number of small, fluted _croustades_, baked
without colouration in rather large tartlet moulds. (2) The same number
of slices of braised veal sweetbread as there are _croustades_, and
of the same size. (3) A financière garnish, consisting of very small
chicken-forcemeat quenelles; grooved button-mushrooms, and sliced
cocks’ combs and kidneys. The whole covered by half-glaze with Madeira,
in the proportion of one tablespoonful per _croustade_. (5) As many
fine slices of truffle as there are _croustades_.
Put a tablespoonful of the garnish into each _croustade_; set thereon
a slice of sweetbread; put a slice of truffle upon that, and dish the
_croustades_ on a folded napkin.
1241—PÂTÉ CHAUD DE RIS DE VEAU
Butter an ordinary round hot raised pie, or a Charlotte-mould. Take
about one and one-half lbs. of short paste and roll it into _galettes_,
one-third inch thick; fold the paste over after having dredged it
slightly; draw the two ends gently towards the centre, to form a kind
of skullcap, which, when placed in the mould, immediately lines the
latter. Avoid making folds in the paste while preparing the skullcap,
for they would spoil the look of the patty when turned out.
Press the paste on the bottom and sides of the mould, that the latter
may impart its shape to its lining, and cut the projecting paste to
within half inch of the brim. Now coat the bottom and sides of the
mould with a layer of chicken forcemeat, of an even thickness of
two-thirds of an inch.
Pour into the centre of the mould a garnish composed of slices of
poached veal sweetbread; sliced and cooked mushrooms and sliced
truffles; the whole covered with reduced and somewhat stiff Allemande
sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.
Cover the garnish with a coating of forcemeat, and close the patty with
a layer of paste, the edges of which should be moistened and sealed
down all round the brim of the mould. Pinch the rim of paste inside
and outside, and finish off with leaves of paste stamped out with a
fancy-cutter, ribbed by means of the back of a knife, and laid upon the
paste cover. _Gild_ with beaten egg; make a central slit for the escape
of steam, and set to bake in a hot oven, for from forty-five to fifty
minutes.
When taking the patty out of the oven, turn it out and dish it on a
napkin.
1242—TIMBALE DE RIS DE VEAU
Butter a timbale mould and decorate its sides with thin pieces of
noodle paste, in the shape of lozenges, crescents, indented rings,
discs and imitation-leaves. Excellent ornamental arrangements may be
effected thus; but the reader should bear in mind that the simplest are
the best.
Prepare a skullcap of paste as explained under No. 1241; slightly
moisten the ornamental work in the mould, that it may cling to the
paste of the timbale, and line the latter with paste which should be
well pressed in all directions, that it may take the shape of the
mould.
Then pierce the paste on the bottom, to prevent its blistering during
the baking process; line the bottom and sides with buttered paper, and
fill the timbale, three-quarters full, with split peas or lentils.
Cover the latter with a round piece of paper, and close the timbale by
means of a round layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the
edges. Make and trim the crest of the timbale; pinch it inside and out,
and finish the cover, by means of applied imitation-leaves of paste,
superposed to form a kind of dome.
Set in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is baked, remove its cover
with the view of withdrawing the lentils or peas and the paper, the
sole object of which was to provide a support for the cover. Besmear
the inside of the timbale with a brush dipped in the beaten white of an
egg; keep it for a minute or two in front of the oven, with the view of
drying it inside; turn it out, and spread upon its bottom and sides a
very thin coat of chicken or ordinary forcemeat, the purpose of which
is to shield the crust from the softening effects of the juices of the
garnish.
Put the timbale in the front of the oven for a moment or two, that this
coating of forcemeat may poach.
_Garnish._—Veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration and cut into
collops; small mushrooms; cocks’ combs and kidneys; small quenelles of
chicken, _mousseline_ forcemeat, or roundels of chicken forcemeat rolls
one-third inch thick, trimmed with the fancy-cutter; and slices of
truffles, half of which should be kept for the purposes of decoration.
Cover this garnish with Allemande sauce, prepared with mushroom
essence. Pour it into the timbale, just before serving; upon it set the
reserved slices of truffle, in the form of a crown; replace the cover;
dish upon a folded napkin, and serve.
N.B. (1) As already stated the garnish of the timbale may be cohered
with a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with Madeira or truffle essence.
(2) In this garnish, whether it be cohered by means of a white or
brown sauce, the slices of veal sweetbreads are always the principal
ingredient; but, subject to the circumstances, the other details may be
altered or modified.
1243—VOL AU VENT DE RIS DE VEAU
Vol au vent, which formerly held the place of honour on bourgeois
menus, has now fallen somewhat into the background; nevertheless, I
wished it to appear among the recipes in this work.
_The preparation of the paste_: Make the vol au vent crust as explained
under No. 2390.
_Garnish._—Prepare it exactly as explained under “Timbale de ris de
Veau.” This garnish may also be cohered with a brown sauce, and its
minor ingredients may be modified; but the slices of veal sweetbread
must always stand as the dominating element.
Whatever be the selected kind of garnish, vol au vent should
always be accompanied by medium-sized, trussed crayfish, cooked in
_court-bouillon_.
_Dishing._—Set the vol au vent crust upon a dish covered with a napkin;
pour the garnish into it; decorate with slices of truffle; arrange the
crayfish round the edge, and lay the cover upon the crayfish.
1244—RIS DE VEAU A LA RICHELIEU
Braise the veal sweetbreads exactly as described under “Ris de Veau
Bonne Maman,” taking care to keep the braising-liquor sufficiently
plentiful to well cover the sweetbreads in the _cocotte_.
When the sweetbreads are in the _cocotte_, together with the _julienne_
of vegetables and a _julienne_ of truffles, strain the braising-liquor
over the whole; leave to cool well, and, when the liquid has turned to
a jelly, remove the grease that has risen to the surface.
Dish the _cocotte_ on a napkin.
1245—RIS DE VEAU A LA SUÉDOISE
Poach the veal sweetbreads without colouration, and, when they are
quite cold, cut them into thin and regular collops. Spread some
horse-radish butter over the latter, and cover with a slice of tongue
of the same size as the underlying collop.
Bake a crust without colouration in a flawn ring, of a size in
proportion to the number of slices, and garnish it with a vegetable
salad cohered with mayonnaise. This crust must necessarily be made in
advance.
Upon the salad now set the collops, either in the form of a crown or in
that of a small turban; in the middle place a fine lettuce heart, the
leaves of which should be slightly opened out.
1246—PALETS DE RIS DE VEAU A L’ÉCARLATE
Poach the sweetbreads; when they are cold, cut them into collops
half-an-inch thick, and trim them with a round, even cutter. Stamp out
some roundels of salted tongue with the same cutter, but let them be
only one-eighth inch thick, and twice as many as the collops of veal
sweetbread.
Coat the latter, on either side, with butter prepared with mustard; and
cover with a roundel of tongue.
Set the prepared collops on a tray; let the butter harden, coat with
jelly, and deck the middle of each quoit with a fine slice of truffle.
Arrange the quoits in a circle on a round dish; put some chopped jelly
in the centre, and border the dish with very regularly-cut jelly dice.
Serve a horse-radish sauce and an Italian salad separately.
=Calf’s Liver.=
Calf’s liver is served chiefly as a breakfast or luncheon entrée.
Nevertheless, in ordinary menus, it is sometimes served as a relevé,
braised and whole.
1247—FOIE DE VEAU BRAISÉ A LA BOURGEOISE
Lard the piece with large, seasoned strips of bacon, as for “Bœuf à la
Mode.” Brown it slightly in the oven, and then put it into a saucepan
garnished for braising. (No. 247.)
Moisten with one pint of white wine, and reduce it completely. This
done, moisten again with brown stock, adding one pint of Espagnole
sauce per quart of the moistening.
It is sufficient if the moistening and the sauce reach a little above
the middle of the piece of liver.
When the cooking is two-thirds completed, transfer the liver to another
saucepan; surround it with carrots, shaped like elongated olives and
half-cooked in consommé; and some small onions, half-cooked in butter.
The amount of this garnish of carrots and onions should naturally be in
proportion to the size of the piece of liver.
Strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently in the
oven. Dish the liver with the carrots and onions all round; reduce the
sauce if necessary, and pour it over the garnish.
N.B. The latter need not be arranged symmetrically.
On the contrary simplicity should be made a feature of these bourgeois
dishes.
1248—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE
Cut the calf’s liver into fairly thin slices, from two-and-a-half oz.
to three oz. in weight. Season them with salt and pepper; dredge them,
and toss them in butter. Grill an equal number of rashers of bacon.
Dish the slices of liver and the rashers of bacon alternately, and
sprinkle them with the butter in which the liver was cooked, or with a
brown butter.
1249—BROCHETTES DE FOIE DE VEAU
Select a pale piece of calf’s liver and cut it into square pieces
two-thirds of an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, and toss the
pieces in butter, just to stiffen them.
Put them into a basin with an equal quantity of _blanched_ salted
breast of pork, cut into squares, and of slices of cooked mushrooms.
Add a few tablespoonfuls of stiff Duxelles sauce, and toss the whole
together, that each particle of the various ingredients may become
coated with Duxelles.
This done, impale the squares of liver and pork and the slices of
mushrooms upon a ringed skewer, alternating them in so doing; sprinkle
copiously with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill gently.
These brochettes are served, either on a maître-d’hôtel butter, or on a
Duxelles, Fines Herbes, an Italian or other sauce.
1250—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ESPAGNOLE
Cut the calf’s liver into slices weighing three and a half oz.; season
these with salt and pepper; dredge them; sprinkle them with oil, and
grill them gently.
Meanwhile, prepare:—(1) As many grilled half-tomatoes as there are
pieces of liver; (2) onions cut into thin roundels, seasoned, dredged,
and fried in oil; (3) a proportionate quantity of fried parsley.
Arrange the grilled slices of liver along the centre of an oval dish;
place a half-tomato upon each; and, on one side, set the fried onions,
on the other, the fried parsley.
1251—FOIE DE VEAU SAUTÉ AUX FINES HERBES
Cut the calf’s liver into slices, as above; season these with salt and
pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter.
Arrange the slices in a circle on a round dish; and either pour the
herb sauce over the slices, or serve it separately.
1252—PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU
For a calf’s liver loaf made in a quart mould: Cut one lb. of calf’s
liver into dice, and finely pound these together with one-third oz. of
salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add, little by little,
five oz. of very cold frangipan panada, and two eggs.
Rub through a sieve; put the forcemeat in a bowl; work it over ice, and
finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, cooked in butter,
without colouration; the yolks of two eggs, and quarter pint of thick
cream, added by degrees.
Pour this forcemeat into a well-buttered quart Charlotte-mould; knock
the latter gently on a folded serviette, with the view of settling its
contents, and put it to poach in the oven in a _bain-marie_, for about
forty-five minutes.
When taking the loaf out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes,
that the forcemeat inside may thoroughly settle; turn it out on a round
dish, and cover it with a Duxelles, Italienne, Bordelaise, brown caper,
or other sauce.
1253—CÔTES DE VEAU
Veal cutlets may either be grilled or _sautéd_, but the second method
of cooking them is, in most cases, preferable.
When they are _sautéd_, the cutlets should be cooked in clarified
butter, over a somewhat fierce fire and in a utensil large enough to
hold them without crowding.
This done, dish them; pour away the butter in which they have been
cooked; swill the saucepan, _i.e._, dissolve the concentrated gravy
adhering to the sides and bottom of it with a liquid in keeping with
the garnish; either mushroom cooking-liquor, white or red wine,
or Madeira, etc.; and add this swilling-liquor, reduced, to the
accompanying sauce. The latter is generally a buttered half-glaze,
but the best adjunct to veal cutlets is a pale meat glaze, moderately
buttered.
All vegetable and paste garnishes, given under Cushion of Veal, suit
veal cutlets. I must therefore beg the reader to refer to those
recipes, as circumstances may dictate; and restrict myself to a few
formulæ which, in my opinion, are suited more particularly to veal
cutlets.
1254—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA BONNE FEMME
Put the veal cutlet into an earthenware saucepan, with one and
one-half oz. of butter, and brown it well on both sides. Add six small
onions cooked in butter, three oz. of potatoes cut into roundels; and
complete the cooking gently in the oven, keeping the saucepan covered.
Serve the preparation in the saucepan as it stands.
1255—CÔTE DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE
Heat one oz. of butter in an earthenware saucepan; insert the veal
cutlet, seasoned, and cook it gently, taking care to turn it over from
time to time.
At the last moment, add a tablespoonful of excellent veal gravy, and
serve in the saucepan.
1256—CÔTE DE VEAU EN COCOTTE A LA PAYSANNE
Toss the veal cutlet in butter, in the _cocotte_, with two small slices
of _blanched_ salted breast of pork. Add four small onions, and two
small, long potatoes, cut _paysanne_-fashion; and complete the cooking
of the cutlets and the garnish very gently in the oven.
Send the preparation to the table in the _cocotte_.
1257—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA DREUX
Stud the kernel of the veal cutlet with tongue, ham and truffle, and
cook it gently in butter. This done, trim it to the quick on both
sides, that the studding may be clean and neat; dish it with a frill on
the bare bone, and, beside it, arrange a small garnish of quenelles,
mushrooms, cocks’ combs and kidneys, and turned and _blanched_ olives.
Pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, over
the garnish.
1258—CÔTE DE VEAU MILANAISE
With a moistened butcher’s beater, flatten the meat in suchwise as to
reduce it to half its normal thickness. Dip the veal cutlet into beaten
egg; roll it in bread-crumbs, mixed with half as much grated Parmesan,
and cook it in clarified butter, or butter and oil in equal quantities.
Dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and the garnish beside it.
_Milanaise garnish_ consists of cooked macaroni, seasoned with salt,
pepper and nutmeg, and cohered with butter, grated Gruyère and Parmesan
cheeses, and very red tomato purée; and combined with a _julienne_ of
very lean cooked ham, salted tongue, mushrooms and truffles, heated in
Madeira.
1259—CÔTE DE VEAU PAPILLOTE
Toss the veal cutlet in butter, and prepare, meanwhile:—
(1) Two tablespoonfuls of Duxelles sauce, combined with a cooked and
sliced mushroom.
(2) Two heart-shaped slices of ham, of about the same size as the
cutlet.
(3) A doubled sheet of strong paper, cut to the shape of a heart and
well-oiled.
Spread out the sheet of paper, and, in the middle thereof, lay a slice
of ham; spread a tablespoonful of Duxelles on the latter; put the
cutlet on the sauce; cover it with the remainder of the Duxelles, and
finish with the other slice of ham.
Fold the sheet of paper so as to enclose the whole; pleat the edges
nicely; put the cutlet on a tray, and blow out the _papillote_ in a
fairly hot oven. When taking it out of the oven, transfer it to a dish,
and serve instantly.
1260—CÔTE DE VEAU POJARSKI
Completely separate the meat of the veal cutlet from the bone; clear it
of all skin and gristle, and chop it up with half its weight of butter,
salt and pepper. Mass this mince-meat close up to the bone, shaping it
like a cutlet, and cook the whole in clarified butter, turning it over
very carefully in the process.
Dish with a suitable garnish.
1261—CÔTE DE VEAU ZINGARA
Cook the veal cutlet in butter; at the same time prepare a slice of raw
ham, cut to the shape of the cutlet, and likewise tossed in butter.
Dish the cutlet; set the slice of ham upon it, and surround with a few
tablespoonfuls of Zingara sauce.
_Zingara sauce is prepared thus_: Reduce a few tablespoonfuls of
white wine and mushroom cooking-liquor to half. Add one-fifth pint of
half-glaze, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, one tablespoonful of
veal stock, one oz. of a _julienne_ of tongue, mushrooms and truffles;
and set to boil for a few seconds.
1262—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE EN BELLE VUE
Let a little jelly set in a utensil somewhat resembling a cutlet
in shape. Trim the veal cutlet; decorate it with various little
vegetables, and sprinkle the latter with half-melted jelly, so as to
fix them.
Put the cutlet on the layer of set jelly, inside the utensil, and let
it lie with its decorated side undermost.
Add enough jelly to cover the cutlet, and let the former set.
This done, pass the blade of a small knife (dipped in hot water) round
the cutlet; set the utensil for a moment upon a napkin dipped in hot
water, turn out the cutlet with care, and set it on a cold dish, with a
border of chopped aspic, and a frill on the bone.
1263—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE RUBENS
Trim the veal cutlet; coat it with half-melted aspic, and cover it with
young hop shoots, cohered with tomato sauce cleared by means of aspic.
Let the sauce thoroughly set, and then put the cutlet between two
layers of aspic as explained above.
N.B. Cold veal cutlets may also be served Belle-vue fashion, after the
very simple manner described under “Grenadins en Belle-vue” (No. 1217).
1264—ROGNON DE VEAU
When _sautéd_ after the usual manner, veal kidney admits of all the
preparations given for sheep’s kidney. (See the chapter on Mutton.)
I shall now, therefore, only give those recipes which are proper to
veal kidney.
1265—ROGNON DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE
Trim the veal kidney and only leave a very slight layer of fat all
round it.
Heat one oz. of butter in a small, earthenware saucepan, also called
“cocotte”; put the seasoned kidney into the latter, and cook it gently
for about thirty minutes, taking care to turn it often the while.
At the last minute sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of good veal gravy.
Serve it in the _cocotte_ as it stands.
1266—ROGNON DE VEAU EN COCOTTE
Prepare the veal kidney and fry it in butter, as in the case of the
“en casserole” dish. Surround it with one and one-half oz. of small
pieces of _blanched_ bacon, tossed in butter; one and one-half oz. of
raw, quartered mushrooms, also tossed, and one and one-half oz. of
small _blanched_ potatoes, of the size and shape of garlic cloves, and
the same quantity of small, glazed onions. Complete the cooking of the
whole gently.
At the last minute, add a tablespoonful of good, veal gravy, and serve
the _cocotte_ as it stands.
1267—ROGNON DE VEAU GRILLÉ
Trim the veal kidney, and leave a slight layer of fat all round it. Cut
it in half lengthwise, without completely separating the two halves,
and impale it on a small skewer, with the view of keeping it in shape.
Season with salt and pepper, and grill it gently; basting it often the
while with melted butter.
Send separately, either a Maître-d’hôtel, a Bercy, or other butter
suited to grills.
1268—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA LIÉGEOISE
Prepare the veal kidney as for “_en casserole_.” One minute before
serving, add one small wineglassful of burned gin, two crushed juniper
berries, and one tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve in the
cooking-utensil.
1269—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA MONTPENSIER
Trim the veal kidney, leaving a slight coating of fat all round it, and
cut into five or six slices. Season the latter, toss them in butter
over a brisk fire, and transfer them to a plate.
Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of Madeira, and add thereto
three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, a few drops of lemon juice,
one and one-half oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.
Dish the pieces of kidney, or set them in a timbale; sprinkle them with
the sauce, and in their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered
with butter, and one and one-half oz. of truffle slices.
1270—ROGNON DE VEAU PORTUGAISE
Cut up the veal kidney, and toss it in butter, after the manner
described under No. 1269.
Dish the pieces in a circle on a dish; set a very small, stuffed
half-tomato upon each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a very
reduced tomato _fondue_. Surround the kidney with a sauce prepared as
directed above.
1271—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA ROBERT
Heat one oz. of butter in a small _cocotte_; put the seasoned veal
kidney therein; fry it over a brisk fire, and set it to cook in the
oven for about fifteen minutes. Serve the kidney as it leaves the oven,
and complete the procedure, at the table, in the following manner:—
Transfer the kidney to a hot plate. Place the _cocotte_ on a spirit
lamp; pour into the former one glassful of excellent liqueur brandy,
and reduce to half. Meanwhile, quickly cut the kidney into extremely
thin slices, and cover these with an overturned plate.
Add to the reduced liqueur brandy one coffeespoonful of mustard,
one oz. of butter cut into small pieces, the juice of a quarter of a
lemon, and a pinch of chopped parsley; and work the whole well with a
fork, with the view of effecting the leason.
Put the sliced kidney into this sauce, together with the gravy that has
drained from it; heat the whole well, without boiling, and serve on
very hot plates.
1272—TENDRONS DE VEAU
The tendrons are cut from breast of veal. They are, in fact, the
extreme ends of the ribs, including the cartilage of the sternum.
If the tendrons are braised, treat them after the manner described
under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248); or, simply stew them
in butter; moisten them with excellent veal stock, and baste them
frequently while cooking them. They may also be treated like an
ordinary veal _sauté_, from which they only differ in shape, and the
various preparations of which may be adapted to them.
The garnishes best suited to them are those of early-season vegetables,
and, as a matter of fact, the latter, together with such pastes as
noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, etc., are the garnishes most often served
with them.
1273—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L’ANCIENNE
Cut the veal tendrons into pieces weighing about three oz. Then,
slightly blanch them; cool them, and put them into a saucepan with
enough white stock to cover; add a very little salt; set to boil, and
skim.
For two lbs. of tendrons, add one small carrot; one fair-sized onion,
stuck with a clove; a faggot, consisting of one leek, parsley stalks,
and a fragment of thyme and bay; and set to cook gently for one and
one-half hours.
Prepare a white roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and one and
one-half oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of veal cooking-liquor;
add one oz. of mushroom parings, and cook for a quarter of an hour,
despumating the sauce the while.
Transfer the pieces of tendron, one by one, to a sautépan with twelve
small onions cooked in consommé, and fifteen small, cooked and very
white mushrooms. Finish the sauce with a leason of two egg-yolks, mixed
with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a few drops of lemon juice;
strain it over the veal and its garnish; heat without boiling; dish in
a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
N.B. This blanquette may also be prepared with noodles or _cèpes_,
instead of with ordinary mushrooms.
1274—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX CÉLERIS, CARDONS, ETC.
Prepare the blanquette exactly as explained above, and set it to cook
with the veal and the vegetable selected for the garnish, _i.e._,
either small heads of celery cut into two or four, or cardoons, cut
into pieces and well _blanched_. The endives are not _blanched_; they
need only be well washed and put with the veal.
When cooked, drain the vegetables, trim them, and dish them in a
timbale with the veal and the sauce; the latter prepared as directed
and strained over the meat.
1275—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX NOUILLES
Proceed as for “Blanquette à l’ancienne,” but suppress the garnish of
onions and mushrooms.
When the blanquette is dished, set thereon heaps of noodles, parboiled
and cohered with butter, and cover these with raw noodles tossed
quickly in butter; allow three oz. of tossed noodles per lb. of those
cohered.
1276—FRICASSÉE DE VEAU
Fricassée differs from blanquette in this, namely, that the pieces of
veal in the former are stiffened in butter without colouration.
When the meat has been well stiffened, besprinkle it with about one oz.
of flour per lb.; cook this flour with the meat for a few minutes;
then moisten the fricassée with white stock; season, and set to boil,
stirring the while. All the garnishes of mushrooms and vegetables given
for blanquette may be served with fricassée; but in the case of the
latter, both the meat and the garnish are cooked in the sauce, the
leason of which is effected by means of egg-yolks and cream, as for
blanquette.
1277—FRICADELLES
Fricadelles are a kind of meat balls, somewhat like those commonly
prepared in private households. They are made from raw or cooked meat,
in the following manner:—
_Fricadelles with Raw Meat._—For ten fricadelles, each weighing three
and one-half oz., chop up one lb. of very lean veal, cleared of all
fat and gristle, together with two-thirds of a lb. of butter. Put the
whole into a bowl, and add thereto five oz. of soaked and well-pressed
crumb of bread, two eggs, half an oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a
little nutmeg, and two oz. of chopped onion cooked in butter without
colouration.
Mix the whole well, and divide it up into portions weighing three and
one-half oz.
Fashion these portions to the shape of quoits, by first rolling them
into balls on a flour-dusted board, and afterwards flattening them out
with the flat of a knife.
Heat some butter or very pure fat in a sautépan; put the fricadelles
therein; brown them on both sides, and then complete their cooking in
the oven.
This done, set them on a round dish, and serve them, either with a
vegetable purée, a Piquante or a Robert sauce.
_Fricadelles with Cooked Meat._—For ten fricadelles, each weighing two
and one-half oz., chop one lb. of cooked veal, fat and lean, somewhat
finely.
Put it into a bowl with a large pinch of salt, another of pepper, and
a little nutmeg. Add the pulp of three fair-sized potatoes, baked
in the oven; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without
colouration; one large egg, and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley.
Mix well; divide up into portions of the weight already given, and
shape and cook them as in the previous case.
These fricadelles are served with vegetable purées and the sauces
suited to those prepared from raw meat.
1278—PAUPIETTES DE VEAU
Paupiettes or scrolls are made from extremely thin slices of veal,
four in. long by two in. wide. After having seasoned them, cover
them with forcemeat or very fine mincemeat; roll them, with their
forcemeat-coat inside, into scrolls, and tie them round, once or twice,
with string, that they may keep their shape while cooking. They are
sometimes covered with thin rashers of bacon. Paupiettes are always
braised, gently and protractedly.
They are generally garnished with vegetable purées; but they may be
served just as well with all vegetable garnishes.
By making them half the usual size, they may, after having been
braised, serve as the garnish for a timbale, together with noodles,
gniokis, spaghetti, or with Financière, Milanaise or Napolitaine
garnish, etc.
1279—SAUTÉS DE VEAU
The pieces best suited to veal _sautés_ are: the breast and the
shoulder, as also those parts of the haunch other than the cushion and
undercushion.
1280—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA MARENGO
Heat one pint of oil in a sautépan, until it smokes. Put therein
two lbs. of veal, cut into pieces, each weighing two oz., and fry
until the latter are well set. Add a chopped half onion and a crushed
half-clove of garlic, and fry again for a few moments.
Drain away the oil, tilting the sautépan with its lid on, for the
purpose; moisten with a quarter of a pint of white wine; reduce,
and add two-thirds of a quart of thin Espagnole sauce, one and
one-half lbs. of tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces (or one pint of
tomato sauce), and a faggot.
Set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours.
At the end of that time, transfer the pieces of veal, one by one, to
another saucepan with fifteen small glazed onions, and five oz. of
mushrooms. Reduce the sauce; strain it over the veal and its garnish,
add two large pinches of _concassed_ parsley, and cook for a further
quarter of an hour.
When about to serve, clear of all grease, dish in a timbale, and
surround with small heart-shaped _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, fried in
oil.
1281—SAUTÉ DE VEAU CHASSEUR
Cut the veal into pieces as above, and fry these well in butter or oil.
Drain away the grease; moisten with one quart of brown stock, add two
tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, and a faggot; set to boil, and cook in
the oven gently for one and one-half hours.
Transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain; reduce their
cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add it to one-quarter of a pint of
Chasseur sauce (No. 33).
Pour this sauce over the pieces of veal, and cook again for a quarter
of an hour. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
1282—SAUTÉ DE VEAU PRINTANIER
Fry the pieces of veal in butter. Moisten with two-thirds of a quart of
brown stock and one-fifth of a pint of half-glaze; add a faggot; boil,
and cook in the oven gently for one hour.
This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add thereto a
garnish of carrots, new turnips, and small, new potatoes; strain
the sauce over the veal and the garnish, and cook for a further
three-quarters of an hour.
Dish in a timbale and distribute over the _sauté_ a few tablespoonfuls
of peas and French beans in lozenge-form, both cooked _à l’anglaise_.
1283—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA CATALANE
Cut up, _sauté_, and cook the veal gently for one and one-half hours,
as for No. 1280.
Transfer the pieces of veal to another saucepan, and add to them three
small peeled and pressed tomatoes, quartered and tossed in butter; ten
small onions cooked in butter; six oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms; ten
chestnuts, three-parts cooked in consommé, and eight Chipolata sausages.
Reduce the sauce to one-third of a pint; strain it over the veal and
its garnish; cook for a further quarter of an hour, and dish in a
timbale.
1284—SAUTÉS DE VEAU DIVERS
Veal _sauté_ may also be prepared with mushrooms, _fines herbes_,
egg-plant, tomatoes, or “Currie à l’Indienne,” etc.
1285—PAIN DE VEAU
Prepare “Pain de Veau” exactly as directed under No. 1252; but
substitute for the liver some very white veal.
Pain de veau is generally accompanied by a white sauce, such as
velouté prepared with mushroom essence, Allemande sauce prepared with
mushrooms, Suprême sauce, etc.
1286—CALF’S FEET
Calf’s feet serve chiefly in supplying the gelatinous element of
aspics, and the body of braising stock. They are rarely used in the
preparation of a special dish; but, should they be so used, they may be
cooked and served after the manner directed in the recipes treating of
calf’s head.
1287—CALVES’ TONGUES
Provided the difference of size be allowed for, calf’s tongue may be
prepared like ox tongue, and served with the same garnishes. (See Ox
Tongue, Nos. 1153 to 1158 inclusive.)
1288—CALF’S BRAINS AND AMOURETTES
Calf’s brains form the most wholesome and reparative diet for all those
who are debilitated by excessive head-work; and the same remark applies
to the brains of the ox and the sheep.
The amourettes mentioned here, which almost always accompany ox brains,
are only the spinal marrow of the ox or the calf. This may be used in
the preparation of a few special dishes; but all the recipes dealing
with brains may be applied to it.
1289—THE COOKING OF BRAINS
Carefully remove the membrane enveloping the brains or the amourettes,
and put them to soak in fresh water, until they are quite white. Put
the brains in a saucepan with enough boiling _court-bouillon_ (No. 163)
to cover them well; skim and then set to cook gently.
Brains have this peculiarity, namely, that prolonged cooking only
stiffens them; thus, calf’s brains only take half an hour to cook; but
they may cook for two hours more without harm, seeing that the process
only tends to make them firmer.
1290—CERVELLE A LA BEAUMONT
Cut the brains into slices; on each slice put a layer of _gratin_
force-meat (No. 202) prepared from foie gras and softened by means of
a little cold, brown sauce, and a slice of truffle. Reconstruct the
brains by putting the coated slices together again.
Roll some puff-paste remains into a _galette_ one-fifth of an inch
thick, the diameter of which should be in proportion to the size of the
brains under treatment. Put the brains in the middle of the _galette_,
and cover them with the same forcemeat as that laid on the slices;
sprinkle with chopped truffles; moisten the edges of the paste, and
draw these over the brains so as to enclose the latter completely.
_Gild_; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a
hot oven for fifteen minutes. After taking the pie out of the oven,
pour a few tablespoonfuls of Périgueux sauce into the former, and dish
on a napkin.
1291—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOIR
Slice the brains; set the slices on a dish, and season them with salt
and pepper.
Cook two oz. of butter in the frying-pan until it is slightly
blackened; throw therein a pinch of parsley _pluches_, and sprinkle the
brains with this butter. Pour a few drops of vinegar into the burning
frying-pan, and add it to the brains.
1292—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOISETTE
Slice and season the brains as above. Cook the butter until it has
acquired a golden colour and exhales a nutty smell; pour it over the
brains, and finish with a few drops of lemon juice and a pinch of
chopped parsley.
1293—CERVELLE A LA MARÉCHALE
Cut the brains into regular slices, one-third of an inch thick; treat
them _à l’anglaise_ with very fine bread-crumbs, and brown them in
clarified butter.
Dish them in the form of a circle, with a slice of truffle on each,
and garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-heads
cohered with butter.
1294—CERVELLE A LA POULETTE
Prepare half a pint of poulette sauce (No. 101), combined with
three oz. of small, cooked, and very white mushrooms.
Add the brains, cut into slices; toss them gently in the sauce, taking
care lest they break; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch
of chopped parsley.
1295—CERVELLE A LA VILLEROY
Cut the raw brains into slices; season them, and poach them in butter.
Dip the slices into an almost cold Villeroy sauce, in suchwise as to
cover them with a thick coating of it. Leave to cool, and treat them _à
l’anglaise_. Set to cook for a few minutes before serving, and dish on
a napkin with fried parsley.
Serve a light Périgueux sauce separately.
1296—VOL AU VENT DE CERVELLE
Prepare a vol-au-vent crust, as explained under No. 2390. Slice the
brains, and put the slices into half-a-pint of Allemande sauce, with
twelve quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, poached just before dishing up;
four oz. of small, cooked mushrooms, and one oz. of truffle slices,
five or six of which should be reserved.
Pour the garnish into the vol au vent; set upon the latter the reserved
slices of truffle, and dish on a folded napkin.
1297—AMOURETTES A LA TOSCA
Poach one lb. of _amourettes_, as explained above, and cut them into
lengths of one in.
Prepare a garnish of macaroni cohered with butter and grated Parmesan,
and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of a crayfish cullis per four oz.
of macaroni; three crayfishes’ tails for each person, and two-thirds of
the pieces of _amourettes_. Toss well, in order to thoroughly mix the
whole; dish in a timbale; cover the macaroni with what remains of the
pieces of _amourettes_, and cover them slightly with crayfish cullis.
MUTTON, GRASS LAMB AND HOUSE LAMB
=Relevés and Entrées.=
From the culinary standpoint, the ovine species supplies three kinds of
meat, viz:—
_Mutton_—properly so-called when the meat is derived from the adult
animal.
_Lamb_—the young, weaned sheep, not yet fully grown, the meat of which
is the more highly esteemed the younger the animal is.
_House Lamb_—the sheep’s unweaned young that has not yet grazed.
The “Pauillac” lamb, which is imported from France, is the most
excellent example of the last kind. Good house lambs are also killed
in England; they are quite equal to Pauillac lamb, but their season
is short. As regards ordinary English mutton and lamb, however, the
delicacy and quality of these meats are unrivalled.
But for its greater delicacy and tenderness, grass lamb, which
corresponds with what the French call “agneau de pré-salé” is scarcely
distinguishable from mutton. The recipes suited to it are the same
as those given for mutton; and all that is necessary is to allow for
differences of quality in calculating the time of cooking.
House lamb, the white flesh of which is quite different, admits of some
of the mutton recipes; but it is generally prepared after special
formulæ, the details of which I shall give hereafter.