RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES
The difference between Relevés and Entrées needs only to be examined
very superficially in order for it to be seen how entirely the
classification hangs on the question of bulk. Indeed, with very few
exceptions, the same alimentary products—butcher’s meat, fish, poultry,
and game—may be used with perfect propriety in the preparation of
either Relevés or Entrées. And if the mode of preparation and the
nature of the garnishing ingredients are sometimes dissimilar, it is
owing to that difference in bulk referred to above, on account of which
the Relevés, being more voluminous, are usually braised, _poëled_,
poached, or roasted; while the Entrées, consisting of smaller pieces,
are chiefly _sautéd_, poached, or grilled.
In the menus of old-fashioned dinners à la Française, the line of
demarcation between Relevés and Entrées was far more clearly defined,
the latter being generally twice, if not thrice, as numerous as the
former. The first service of a dinner for twenty people, for instance,
comprised eight or twelve Entrées and four soups, all of which were
set on the dining-table before the admission of the diners. As soon
as the soups were served, the Relevés, to the number of four, two of
which consisted of fish, took the place of the soups on the table; they
_relieved_ the soups; hence their name, which now, of course, is quite
meaningless.
The Russian method of serving greatly simplified the practice just
described. Nowadays a dinner rarely consists of more than two
soups, two Relevés (one of which is fish), and two or three Entrées
for the first service. Very often the fish Relevé, instead of
being a large piece of fish, only consists of fillets of sole, of
chicken-turbots, &c., or timbales, which are real entrées; while the
Relevés (consisting of large pieces of butcher’s meat or game), instead
of being served as common sense would dictate, _i.e._, after the fish
Relevé, when the diner’s appetite is still keen, are placed, according
to English custom, after the Entrées.
Thus, as the two above examples show, the parts played by the Relevés
and Entrées respectively are very far from being clearly defined; and
I therefore resolved to treat of them both in the same chapter, and
to append a few grills (usually accompanied by various sauces and
garnishes), which are really only luncheon-roasts. The indications
given concerning the class to which the recipes belong will suffice to
avoid confusion.
RELEVÉS AND ENTRÉES OF BUTCHER’S MEAT
BEEF
1043—FILLET OF BEEF (Relevé)
Fillet of beef for a Relevé may consist either of the whole piece,
trimmed, studded, or larded, or a more or less large piece cut from the
whole, and treated after one of the methods suited to the whole fillet.
The fillet may be braised, _poëled_, or roasted; but the last two modes
of preparation suit it best, as it is generally preferred underdone and
somewhat red towards the centre.
The garnishes for a Relevé of fillet of beef are as numerous as they
are varied; and, as they are applicable not only to fillet of beef but
to all Relevés of butcher’s meat, I give them here in preference, since
fillet of beef may be considered the choicest of Relevés.
1044—FILETS DE BŒUF ANDALOUSE
Having removed all the connective tissue from the fillet, lard it with
thin strips of bacon, and _poële_ or roast it. Glaze it at the last
moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with:—(1) Some grilled
half-capsicums, filled with rice à la grecque (No. 2253); (2) roundels
of egg-plant, two inches in diameter and one inch thick, hollowed out
to form cases, fried in oil, and garnished with _concassed_ tomatoes
tossed in oil. Arrange the half-capsicums and the egg-plant alternately
round the fillet, and place a grilled _chipolata_ sausage between each.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—The gravy taken from the _poëling_-stock,
strained, cleared of all grease, and thickened.
1045—FILET DE BŒUF BOUQUETIERE
Having larded the fillet and _poëled_ or roasted it, set it on a long
dish and surround it with:—(1) Small heaps of carrots and turnips,
turned by means of a small grooved spoon, and cooked in consommé;
(2) small heaps of little potatoes turned to the shape of olives and
cooked in butter; (3) small heaps of peas and of French beans, cut into
lozenges and cohered with butter; (4) five bunches of cauliflower.
Arrange these different products in such wise as to vary their colours
and throw them into relief.
Serve the gravy of the fillet separately, after having cleared it of
all grease and strained it.
1046—FILET DE BŒUF CAMARGO
Trim the fillet; suppress the long muscle lying on its thicker side
(Fr. chaîne), and open the meat lengthwise from the same side. Withdraw
the meat from the inside of the fillet so as to leave a wall of meat
only one-half inch thick all round. Finely chop the withdrawn meat
and combine with it, per lb., little by little, from four to five
tablespoonfuls of cream and four oz. of fresh foie gras. Season with
salt and pepper, rectify the consistence of the paste, and add thereto,
per lb., two oz. of chopped truffles.
Fill the hollow fillet with this forcemeat, thereby returning it to its
original shape, and stud its top surface with pointed pieces of truffle
one inch long by one-quarter inch wide, stuck into the meat aslant. In
order to facilitate this operation, bore the meat, before the insertion
of the pieces of truffles, by means of a small knife.
Now cover the fillet with slices of bacon and string it laterally,
leaving a space of one inch between each strand.
_Poële_ the meat carefully, and take care that the forcemeat inside
be well, but not over-done. This may be ascertained by thrusting a
braiding needle into the thickest part of the fillet, as soon as the
meat seems resisting and elastic to the touch. If the needle withdraws
clean, the fillet is ready.
Now glaze it, after having cut away the string and removed the slices
of bacon; dish it, and surround it with the following garnish:—Small
tartlet-crusts garnished by means of noodles with cream; a slice of
foie gras stamped out with a round cutter and tossed in butter, upon
the noodles; and a fine slice of truffle on the foie gras.
_Sauce to be sent to the table separately._—The reduced _poëling_-liquor
of the fillet, cleared of all grease, and added to a Périgueux sauce.
1047—FILET DE BŒUF CHÂTELAINE
Lard the fillet, _poële_ it, and glaze it just before dishing
up. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish:—(1) Medium-sized artichoke-bottoms garnished with thick
Soubise; (2) fine, peeled chestnuts cooked in the _poëling_-liquor;
(3) small heaps of lightly browned potatoes, cooked in butter at the
last moment.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—The reduced _poëling_-liquor of the
fillet, cleared of all grease and added to a Madeira sauce.
1048—FILET DE BŒUF CLAMART
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with:—(1) Little tartlet-crusts
garnished with peas, prepared à la Française (No. 2193), combined with
the _ciseled_ lettuce used in their cooking-process, and cohered with
butter; (2) small quoits of “Pommes Macaire” (No. 2228). Arrange the
tartlet-crusts and the quoits alternately.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—The gravy slightly thickened.
1049—FILET DE BŒUF DAUPHINE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with a garnish of potato _croquettes_ à la Dauphine, moulded to the
shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—Pale half-glaze with Madeira.
1050—FILET DE BŒUF DUBARRY
Lard the fillet with bacon, and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with small heaps of cauliflower
moulded to the shape of balls, coated with Mornay sauce, besprinkled
with grated cheese, and put in the oven for the _gratin_ to form just
in time for the dishing up.
Send a thickened gravy to the table separately.
1051—FILET DE BŒUF DUCHESSE
Either roast or _poële_ the larded fillet. If it be _poëled_, glaze it
at the last moment.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with potatoes à la Duchesse (the
shape of which may be varied according to fancy), lightly browned and
coloured in the oven for a few minutes before the dishing.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—Half-glaze with Madeira.
1052—FILET DE BŒUF FINANCIÈRE
_Poële_ the larded fillet.
Glaze it at the last moment and set it on a long dish.
Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of ordinary
forcemeat; (2) grooved and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) cocks’
combs and kidneys; (4) turned and _blanched_ olives. Each garnish
should be placed on the dish in distinct heaps.
Cover the garnish with a little financière sauce, and send the same
sauce separately.
1053—FILET DE BŒUF GASTRONOME
Insert truffles, cut to the shape of ordinary larding-bacon, into the
fillet, and set the latter to _marinade_ for four or five hours in
one-quarter pint of Madeira.
This done, thoroughly wipe it; cover it with slices of bacon, and
braise it in Madeira. When about to serve it, remove the slices of
bacon; glaze it slightly, and set it on a long dish.
Surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) large and thick slices of
truffle, cooked in a fine _mirepoix_ with champagne; (2) fine chestnuts
cooked in consommé and glazed; (3) fine cocks’ kidneys, rolled in
pale, thin meat-glaze; (4) noodles tossed in butter. These different
garnishes should be arranged in alternate heaps, and connected by means
of medium-sized truffles cooked in Madeira.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—Half-glaze combined with the
cooking-liquor of the truffles, strained through linen and reduced to
two-thirds.
1054—FILET DE BŒUF GODARD
Lard the fillet with alternate strips of bacon and salted tongue, and
_poële_ it. Glaze it a few minutes before serving; set it on a long
dish, and surround it with a garnish consisting of (1) quenelles of
ordinary forcemeat with chopped mushrooms and truffles added thereto,
moulded by means of a coffee-spoon, and poached just before dishing
up; (2) turned and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) glazed lamb
sweet-breads; (4) cocks’ combs and kidneys; (5) truffles fashioned like
olives.
Slightly coat these garnishes, which should be arranged in heaps, with
sauce; finish the dish with four oval quenelles decked with tongue and
truffle, and place one of these at either end and side of the dish.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—A Godard sauce combined with the
cooking-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and reduced.
1055—FILET DE BŒUF HONGROISE
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with a garnish consisting of
medium-sized onions, cooked in white consommé, and glazed in butter at
the last minute.
_Sauce to be sent separately._—Thin Soubise with paprika.
1056—FILET DE BŒUF JAPONAISE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with a garnish consisting of (1) small _croustades_ cooked in grooved
brioche-moulds and garnished with Japanese artichokes cohered by means
of velouté; (2) potato _croquettes_ moulded to the shape of eggs
and fried just before dishing up. Arrange the _croustades_ and the
_croquettes_ alternately.
Send the gravy of the fillet, strained and cleared of all grease, to
the table separately.
1057—FILET DE BŒUF JARDINIÈRE
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish and surround it with the following garnishes,
which should be arranged in distinct heaps in such wise as to alternate
their colours:—Carrots and turnips, raised by means of a grooved
spoon-cutter and cooked separately in consommé; peas, French beans in
lozenge-form and small flageolets, each of which vegetables should be
cooked in a manner in keeping with its nature, and separately cohered
with butter; portions of freshly-cooked cauliflower, kept very white
and of tight growth.
Send some Hollandaise sauce for the cauliflower, and some clear gravy,
to the table, separately.
1058—FILET DE BŒUF LORETTE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround
it with a garnish as follows:—(1) A small pyramid of Lorette
potatoes (No. 2226) at either end of the fillet; (2) fine heaps of
asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, on either side.
Send some _tomatéd_ half-glaze separately.
1059—FILET DE BŒUF MACÉDOINE
Prepare the fillet as directed under “Filet de Bœuf Jardinière.” Set it
on a long dish and surround it with a _Macédoine_ garnish. The latter
comprises the same ingredients as the “_Jardinière_”; but, instead of
their being heaped separately, they are mixed together and cohered by
means of butter.
1060—FILET DE BŒUF AU MADÈRE ET AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Lard and _poële_ the fillet.
Glaze it; dish it as before, and surround it with fine mushroom-heads,
turned and grooved.
Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the
_poëling_-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.
1061—FILET DE BŒUF MODERNE
Lard the fillet alternately with bacon and tongue, and _poële_ it.
Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with garnish as follows:—On either side of the fillet lay a row of
small “chartreuses,” made in small, hexagonal moulds.
To make these “chartreuses,” butter the moulds and deck the bottom
of each with a slice of truffle, big enough to almost entirely cover
it. Now line the sides of the moulds with various vegetables, such as
carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables
should be cooked as its nature requires.
Arrange them in such wise as to vary their colours, and spread over the
whole a thin layer of rather flimsy forcemeat.
Fill up the moulds with braised cabbage, which should be well
pressed with the view of ridding it of all its moisture, and put the
chartreuses in a _bain-marie_ ten minutes before dishing the fillet.
At either end of the fillet set some braised half-lettuces, arranging
them so that they frame the ends of the fillet in half-circles.
Between the lettuce and the chartreuses set four round quenelles,
decorated with salted tongue and poached in time to be ready for the
dishing of the meat.
Send to the table, separately, the _poëling_-liquor of the fillet,
cleared of all grease, strained, and slightly thickened with arrowroot.
1062—FILET DE BŒUF MONTMORENCY
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it just before dishing up, and set it on a long dish.
Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with the
_poëling_-liquor of the fillet, to which add (per pint of the sauce)
three tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly; two tablespoonfuls of
finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter finely grated first, and then
chopped; thirty moderately-sweetened cherries, set to soak in tepid
water seven or eight minutes beforehand, and drained just before being
added to the sauce.
1063—FILET DE BŒUF NIVERNAISE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with garnish as follows:—(1) Heaps of small carrots, shaped like
elongated olives, cooked in white consommé and a little butter and
sugar, and rolled in their cooking-liquor (reduced to the consistence
of syrup), with the view of glazing them.
Send the _poëling_-liquor (cleared of all grease and strained) to the
table separately.
1064—FILET DE BŒUF ORIENTALE
Roast the fillet “plain,” _i.e._, without previously larding it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish,
taking care to alternate the ingredients, viz., (1) timbales of rice
à la grecque (No. 2253) moulded in buttered _dariole-moulds_, each
timbale being placed on a medium-sized half-tomato, seasoned and tossed
in butter; (2) _croquettes_ of sweet potatoes, moulded to the shape of
corks, and fried just before dishing up.
Send to the table, separately, a highly seasoned tomato sauce.
1065—FILET DE BŒUF PERIGOURDINE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it just before dishing up; set it on a long dish, and surround
it with medium-sized truffles, freshly cooked in Madeira and fine
_mirepoix_, and glazed. Send a Périgueux sauce separately.
1066—FILET DE BŒUF PETIT DUC
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround it with the
following garnish:—(1) crisp, small patties of puff paste garnished
with asparagus-heads cohered by means of cream sauce; (2) medium-sized
artichoke-bottoms, prepared in the usual way, and garnished with slices
of truffle.
Send, separately, a light, meat glaze, combined with four oz. of butter
per one-half pint.
1067—FILET DE BŒUF PORTUGAISE
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and garnish it as follows:—
1. A row of medium-sized, stuffed tomatoes on either side.
2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and
cooked in butter just before dishing up.
Send a light, Portugaise sauce separately.
1068—FILET DE BŒUF PROVENÇALE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with the following, alternated:—Tomatoes and mushrooms stuffed à la
Provençale (Nos. 2266 and 2075).
Send a _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce, separately.
1069—FILET DE BŒUF RÉGENCE
_Marinade_ the fillet in Rhine wine two or three hours in advance;
cover it with a _Matignon_ (No. 227); envelop the fillet and the
_Matignon_ in slices of bacon, and set the whole to braise with its
_marinade_.
A few minutes before dishing up, remove the slices of bacon and the
_Matignon_, and glaze the fillet.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish,
which, except for the decorated quenelles, which are left plain,
should be arranged in distinct heaps, and slightly coated with
sauce:—(1) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, combined with chopped
tongue, moulded by means of a coffeespoon, and poached at the last
minute; (2) collops of foie gras tossed in butter; (3) fine cocks’
combs; (4) very white, cooked mushroom-heads, and truffles shaped like
large olives.
Send, separately, the braising-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all
grease, strained with pressure, reduced, and added to a half-glaze
sauce.
1070—FILET DE BŒUF RENAISSANCE
Lard the fillet and _poële_ it.
Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and surround it
with a garnish of early-season vegetables, comprising carrots and
turnips, raised by means of a large, round, grooved spoon-cutter,
cooked in consommé and glazed; very green peas; small French beans;
small faggots of asparagus-heads; portions of cauliflowers, and small
potatoes cooked in butter.
Renaissance garnish is, however, subject to no fixed rules, and it
may consist of all the available early-season vegetables, small
artichoke-bottoms included.
Send a clear gravy separately.
1071—FILET DE BŒUF RICHELIEU
Lard the fillet, and either _poële_ or roast it.
If it be _poëled_, glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and
surround it with the following garnish, which should be arranged in
distinct heaps and in such wise as to contrast its colouring:—(1) Small
tomatoes and medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed; (2) small or
half-lettuces, braised and well trimmed; (3) potatoes, the size of
pigeons’ eggs, cooked in butter and prepared just in time for the
dishing up.
Send the cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, and slightly thickened,
separately.
1072—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-FLORENTIN
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish:—(1) At either end, a heap of _cèpes_, prepared à la Bordelaise
at the last minute; (2) _croquettes_ of potatoes à la Saint-Florentin,
on either side. These _croquettes_ are prepared from the same
potato-paste as “Pommes Duchesse,” but in this case the paste receives
a copious addition of chopped tongue. Mould them to the shape of
lozenges, and treat them _à l’anglaise_, using for the purpose very
fine vermicelli instead of bread-crumbs.
Fry the _croquettes_ just before dishing up.
Send, separately, a Bordelaise sauce with white wine, kept somewhat
light.
1073—FILET DE BŒUF SAINT-GERMAIN
Lard the fillet and roast it.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish:—(1) At either end of the fillet a nice heap of glazed carrots,
cut to the shape of olives; (2) a heap of very small potatoes, cooked
in butter, on either side of the carrots; (3) a row of small timbales
of very green peas purée (No. 2196) on either side of the fillet.
1074—FILET DE BŒUF TALLEYRAND
Cut up the necessary number of raw truffles for the garnishing of the
fillet. The pieces of truffle should be one inch long and one-quarter
inch wide, and so pointed as to enable them to be easily stuck into the
meat.
To stick them in, make small incisions in the fillet, and in these set
the bits of truffle. _Marinade_ the fillet for three hours in Madeira;
wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and set it to braise with its
_marinade_.
This done, remove the slices of bacon; glaze it, and set it on a long
dish. Send the following garnish separately:—Poached macaroni, cut
into pieces one and one-half inches long, and combined per lb. with
three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, one and one-half oz. of
butter, three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles, and three oz. of cooked
foie gras, cut into large dice.
As an adjunct, send a Périgueux sauce with a fine _julienne_ of
truffles instead of the latter chopped.
1075—FILET DE BŒUF FROID (Relevé)
Fillet of beef, when properly dished, makes an excellent cold Relevé.
For this purpose lard it, roast it (keeping it somewhat underdone
towards the centre), and, when it is quite cold, trim, and coat it with
half-melted jelly.
Then set it either directly upon a dish or upon a cushion of bread or
carved rice, which makes the dish more sightly when the garnish is
added.
Before setting the fillet on the dish or on the cushion of rice, it is
well to cut a slice one-fifth inch thick from the whole of its base;
leave this slice under the fillet when dishing; by this means, when
the carving is proceeded with, each slice will be found to be neatly
trimmed.
Cold fillet of beef allows of every possible cold vegetable garnish.
The vegetables should be cooked with the greatest care and be left to
cool naturally.
When they are quite cold, either cohere them by means of jelly, or set
them round the fillet in neat heaps, taking care to alternate their
shades, and coat them with almost melted aspic.
Finally, between each heap of vegetables lay a little chopped and very
clear aspic, and, round the whole, arrange a border consisting of bits
of aspic (round, oval, square, lozenge-shaped, &c.) very regularly cut.
I see no reason for devoting any further space to this subject. What
has been said should, I think, suffice to show how varied and numerous
are the possible ways of dishing cold fillet of beef, the minute
details of which may, with advantage, be left to the ingenuity of the
operator.
FILLET OF BEEF FOR ENTRÉES
1076—CHÂTEAUBRIAND, FILLET STEAK, TOURNEDOS
By _fillet_ steaks are understood those pieces of meat cut laterally
from the thickest part of the fillet of beef.
They ought to be about one and one-half inches thick, and weigh from
six to seven oz. Tournedos are half-fillets in respect of their weight,
and might well be called the “kernels” of the fillet of beef. The usual
thickness of a tournedos is about one and one-quarter inches, and they
should be cut to a nice, round shape. With the object of preserving
their shape, they may be tied round with string.
Châteaubriand is also procured from the centre of fillet of beef, and
its weight is often twice, thrice, and sometimes more than thrice as
much as that of the ordinary fillet steaks.
As a rule, especially when grilled, it constitutes a special roast for
luncheons; when it is cooked in the saucepan, _i.e._, _sautéd_, it is
more often served as a Relevé.
The same garnishes suit fillet, Châteaubriands, and tournedos, the only
necessary modifications being in respect of size and arrangement, which
should be subject to the size of the piece of meat.
The garnishes detailed hereafter are for the tournedos, which supply
the greatest number of the dishes prepared from the three different
cuts of fillet. If a fillet steak be prepared after one of the
following recipes, the garnish should be made a little stronger, and
its constituents modified in the dishing, neither of which changes need
in any way alter the formula.
The same holds with regard to a Châteaubriand. Thus, for example, if
it be required to prepare a fillet steak or a Châteaubriand, after
the recipe “Tournedos à l’Algérienne,” the number of _croquettes_ and
tomatoes should be half as much again, and they should be arranged
alternately round the meat, instead of the latter being placed on the
_croquettes_, as in the case of the tournedos.
If the fillets are to be treated “à l’Alsacienne,” after the recipe for
tournedos, the sauerkraut should be dished in a timbale instead of in
tartlet-crusts, &c.
All that is needed, therefore, is a change in the method of
arrangement, and this can be decided upon at a glance, without
necessarily interfering with the principle of the recipe.
It should be borne in mind that nearly all the garnishes given under
fillet of beef, served whole, may be applied to Châteaubriands, fillet
steak, and tournedos, provided they be made in proportion to the size
of the different pieces. I see no need, therefore, to repeat these
vegetable recipes in so far as they relate to the various cuts of
fillet of beef.
It is only necessary to add that for the fillet of beef, as well as for
tournedos, noisettes, &c., a large number of plain vegetable garnishes
may be used, the details of which I prefer to omit for fear of unduly
lengthening this work.
Whole fillets, fillet steak, and tournedos may thus be served with
garnishes of braised celery, tuberous fennel, cardoons with gravy,
chow-chow and endives, braised lettuce, various purées, &c., and,
generally, with all the vegetable preparations given in Chapter XVII.
=Important Remarks relative to the Sauces suited to Entrées of
Butcher’s Meat, Garnished with Vegetables=
The derivative sauces of the Espagnole are not, as a rule, suited to
entrées garnished with vegetables. Thickened gravy is better.
The finest adjunct, however, is meat-glaze, which should receive
an addition of four oz. of butter per pint, and should be slightly
acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice. This glaze ought to
be so light as not to impaste the vegetables.
Such vegetables as asparagus-heads, peas, French beans, _macédoines_,
&c., have a disintegrating action upon the sauces, and this is owing
either to their natural moisture or to their leason. As a result of
this action the preparation has an unsightly appearance when served
upon the diner’s plate.
With Châteaubriand sauce (No. 71) or buttered meat-glaze this objection
does not obtain, seeing that this sauce does not decompose, but
combines admirably with the garnish, and lends the latter a certain
noticeable mellowness.
I therefore emphasise this point, viz., that the derivative sauces
of the Espagnole and tomato sauces should be exclusively used with
such preparations garnished with truffles, cock’s combs and kidneys,
quenelles and mushrooms, as “la Financière,” “la Godard,” &c.
TOURNEDOS
1077—TOURNEDOS ALGÉRIENNE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Arrange them in the form of a crown on a round dish, and set a
_croquette_ of sweet potato, moulded to a round shape, upon each.
Around the whole lay some small, emptied, and seasoned half-tomatoes,
stewed in oil.
1078—TOURNEDOS ALSACIENNE
Season and grill the tournedos.
There should have been prepared in advance as many small
tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.
Garnish these tartlets with well-drained, braised sauerkraut, and set
on each a roundel of the lean of ham, stamped out with an even cutter.
Arrange them in the form of a crown on a dish, and set a tournedos upon
each tartlet.
1079—TOURNEDOS ARLÉSIENNE
Fry the tournedos in butter and oil.
When about to serve, set the tournedos on a dish, and surround them
with fried roundels of egg-plant and tossed tomatoes, alternating the
two garnishes, and placing roundels of fried onions on the tournedos.
1080—TOURNEDOS BALTIMORE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Set them in the form of a crown on small tartlets garnished by means of
maize with cream.
Upon each tournedos set a roundel of tomato, seasoned and tossed in
butter, and a smaller slice of green capsicum, also tossed in butter,
on each roundel of tomato.
Accompanying sauce: a Châteaubriand (No. 71).
1081—TOURNEDOS BÉARNAISE
Season the tournedos, and grill them.
Set them on round crusts, half an inch thick, fried in clarified
butter; slightly coat the surface of the tournedos with meat-glaze, and
surround them with a thread of Béarnaise sauce (No. 62).
In the centre arrange a heap of small potatoes cooked in butter and
kept very soft, and sprinkle thereon a pinch of chopped parsley.
N.B.—The tournedos may be simply coated with glaze and the Béarnaise
sauce served separately.
1082—TOURNEDOS BELLE-HÉLÈNE
Prepare as many small croquettes of asparagus-tops, shaped like quoits,
as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Arrange them, in the form of a crown, on a dish; place a _croquette_
on each tournedos, and a large, glazed slice of truffle on each
_croquette_.
1083—TOURNEDOS BERCY
Grill the tournedos, and coat them lightly with pale meat-glaze.
Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a half-melted “Beurre à la
Bercy” (No. 139) separately.
1084—TOURNEDOS BORDELAISE
Grill the tournedos, and dish them in the form of a crown.
Set a large slice of poached marrow on each, and serve a Bordelaise
sauce (No. 32) separately.
1085—TOURNEDOS BRABANÇONNE
Prepare as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.
Garnish them with very small parboiled Brussels sprouts, stewed in
butter; cover these with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze a few moments
before dishing.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; set them on the prepared
tartlets of sprouts, and surround with a border of small “pommes de
terre fondantes” (No. 2214).
1086—TOURNEDOS CASTILLANE
Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) peeled,
pressed, and seasoned tomatoes, cooked in butter; these should be in
the proportion of one tablespoonful per tartlet; (3) rings of onion,
fried in oil as for “Tournedos à l’Arlésienne”; (4) a garnish of one
tablespoonful of small French beans, cohered with butter, per tartlet.
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of
a crown on fried crusts.
Place a tartlet, garnished with a _fondue_ of tomatoes, on each
tournedos; all round arrange a border of the fried roundels of onion,
and serve the French beans, either in the middle of the dish or
separately in a timbale.
1087—TOURNEDOS CENDRILLON
Prepare (1) as many fine artichoke-bottoms as there are tournedos;
(2) a Soubise purée, combined with chopped truffles, and well buttered.
A few moments before the tournedos are ready, garnish the
artichoke-bottoms with the Soubise, and set them to glaze in a fierce
oven.
Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and set them on the
artichoke-bottoms, which should be arranged in a circle round the dish.
1088—TOURNEDOS AUX CHAMPIGNONS
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown; drain the butter from the sautépan;
swill the latter with some mushroom cooking-liquor, and add thereto
a proportional quantity of mushroom sauce. Set to boil for a few
minutes, and pour the sauce, with the mushrooms, in the midst of the
circle of tournedos.
1089—TOURNEDOS CHASSEUR
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of
a crown.
Drain the butter away; swill the sautépan with white wine, and add to
this a quantity of Chasseur sauce, which should be in proportion to the
number of tournedos.
Set to boil for a moment or two, and pour the sauce over the tournedos.
1090—TOURNEDOS CHORON
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Set them on crusts fried in butter; round the top of each lay a thread
of Choron sauce (No. 64), and in the middle of each set a medium-sized
artichoke-bottom garnished with peas or asparagus-heads cohered with
butter.
All round, arrange a border of potatoes, lightly browned in butter, or
heap them in the middle of the crown of tournedos.
N.B.—The sauce may be served separately.
1091—TOURNEDOS COLIGNY
1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of
“Duchesse potatoes” (No. 221), make as many small _galettes_ as there
are tournedos, and of the same size as the latter.
Place them on a tray; _gild_ them, and set them to brown in the oven a
few minutes before the tournedos are ready.
2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil
them; stew them in butter, and add thereto an equal quantity of
Provençale sauce.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; dish them in the form
of a crown, on the _galettes_ of potato, and cover them with the
_paysanne_ of chow-chow.
1092—TOURNEDOS A L’ESTRAGON
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, and on each set either a spray of
parboiled tarragon leaves or a lattice composed of the latter. Send
separately a thickened gravy with tarragon (No. 41).
1093—TOURNEDOS FAVORITE
Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in
the form of a crown, on crusts stamped out with an indented cutter and
fried in butter.
On each tournedos place a round collop of foie gras, a little smaller
than the piece of meat; the collop should be seasoned, dredged, and
tossed in butter. On each collop of foie gras put a fine, glazed slice
of indented truffle. Garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of
asparagus-tops cohered with butter, or merely set these in small heaps
round the tournedos.
Serve separately a timbale of potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts)
cooked in butter, rolled in pale meat-glaze, and slightly sprinkled
with chopped parsley.
1094—TOURNEDOS A LA FLORENTINE
Prepare (1) as many _subrics_ of shredded spinach as there are
tournedos; make them of the same size as the latter, and cook them
at the same time as the tournedos; (2) small, round _croquettes_ of
semolina the size of walnuts; these should be fried a few minutes
before the tournedos are ready.
Grill the tournedos, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the
spinach _subrics_. The _croquettes_ of semolina may be arranged either
in the middle or all round.
1095—TOURNEDOS FORESTIÈRE
Season the tournedos, and _sauté_ them. Set them on crusts fried in
butter. Surround them with alternate heaps of noodles and potatoes cut
into large dice and tossed in butter.
The potatoes may also be placed in the midst of the tournedos with the
noodles all round, or vice versâ.
1096—TOURNEDOS GABRIELLE
Make a preparation from the white meat of a chicken and truffles—both
cut into dice and cohered with the necessary quantity of somewhat light
“Duchesse-potatoes” paste.
With this preparation make as many small quoit-shaped _croquettes_ as
there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked.
Season the tournedos, and fry them with oil and butter in equal
quantities. Dish them, in the form of a crown, on the prepared
_croquettes_, and on each tournedos set a fine roundel of poached
marrow and one slice of truffle.
Around the tournedos arrange some very small, braised, and well-trimmed
lettuces.
1097—TOURNEDOS HENRI IV
Grill the tournedos, and set them on crusts fried in butter.
Round the edge of each tournedos lay a thread of Béarnaise sauce, and
on top of each an artichoke-bottom garnished with very small potatoes
(of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter.
N.B.—Instead of putting the sauce on the edge of the tournedos, it may
be served separately.
1098—TOURNEDOS JUDIC
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of
a crown on crusts fried in butter. On each tournedos set a crown of
truffle slices, with a cock’s kidney in the centre, and surround with
braised, trimmed, and quartered lettuces.
1099—TOURNEDOS LAKMÉ
Prepare (1) as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos;
(2) the same number of grilled, medium-sized mushrooms; (3) a garnish
of one tablespoonful of broad beans with cream per tartlet.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a tartlet garnished with
broad beans, and set a grilled mushroom on each tournedos.
1100—TOURNEDOS LESDIGUIÈRES
Select onions sufficiently large to admit of placing the tournedos upon
them, and let their number equal that of the tournedos.
Trim their tops, and parboil them almost long enough to cook them.
Then, by means of a small knife, cut out their insides so that they
may form little cases. Fill the latter, two-thirds full, with spinach
prepared with cream, cover the spinach with Mornay sauce, and set them
to glaze in a fierce oven a few moments before the tournedos are ready.
Grill the tournedos; dish them in the form of a crown, each on an onion.
1101—TOURNEDOS LILI
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them, in the form of a crown, each on a crust of “Pommes de terre
Anna” (No. 2203), stamped out with a round, even cutter of the same
size as the tournedos.
On each tournedos set an artichoke-bottom garnished with a roundel
of foie gras tossed in butter, and on the foie gras place a slice of
truffle. Send, separately, a reduced and well-buttered Périgueux sauce.
1102—TOURNEDOS LUCULLUS
Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them,
in the form of a crown, on fried crusts. Surround them with a garnish
consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat, cocks’ combs, truffles,
and blanched olives, and coat the whole with half-glaze sauce prepared
with truffle essence.
1103—TOURNEDOS MADELEINE
For ten tournedos prepare (1) ten timbales of a purée of haricot beans.
For these timbales the purée of haricot beans must be cohered per lb.
with one egg and three yolks, finished with two oz. of butter, put into
well-buttered _dariole-moulds_, and set these to poach fifteen minutes
in advance.
(2) Ten small artichoke-bottoms garnished with reduced Soubise.
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter; dish them, and surround
them with the timbales and the artichoke-bottoms, alternating the two
garnishes.
1104—TOURNEDOS MARÉCHALE
Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them upon fried
crusts. On each of the tournedos set a large, glazed slice of truffle,
and surround them with little heaps of asparagus-heads cohered with
butter.
1105—TOURNEDOS MARIE-LOUISE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Dish them, in the form of a crown, upon crusts one-third inch thick,
fried in butter. On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, stewed
in butter, garnished in the shape of a dome, by means of a piping-bag,
with a purée of mushrooms combined with a quart of very reduced Soubise.
1106—TOURNEDOS MASCOTTE
Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.
Have a garnish ready consisting of raw, quartered artichoke-bottoms
fried in butter; small, olive-shaped potatoes, also cooked in butter;
and olive-shaped truffles.
When about to serve, dish the tournedos in a _cocotte_ with the garnish
above described.
Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little gravy; reduce
the whole, strain it into the _cocotte_, and put the latter in the
front of the oven for a minute or two.
1107—TOURNEDOS MASSÉNA
Season the tournedos and fry them in butter; dish them on fried crusts
of the same size, and, in the middle of each tournedos, set a large
slice of poached marrow.
Surround with a row of small artichoke-bottoms, garnished with very
stiff Béarnaise sauce.
1108—TOURNEDOS A LA MÉNAGÈRE
Put into an earthenware _cocotte_ the following vegetables, which
should be in proportion to the number of tournedos:—Haricot butter or
“Princesse” cut into small pieces, minced new carrots, very small new
onions, and very fresh peas.
All these vegetables should be equally apportioned.
Add salt, butter, and a very little water, for the cooking of the
vegetables should be effected mainly by the concentration of steam
inside the _cocotte_, which, for the purpose, should therefore be well
closed.
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon the vegetables in the
_cocotte_ at the last moment.
1109—TOURNEDOS A LA MEXICAINE
Prepare (1) a _fondue_ of peeled and pressed tomatoes, cooked in
butter, well reduced, and in the proportion of one tablespoonful per
mushroom; (2) as many large grilled mushrooms as there are tournedos,
while the latter are being fried; (3) some grilled or fried capsicums
in the proportion of half a one per tournedos.
Season the tournedos, and fry them in oil and butter in equal
quantities. Dish them each on a mushroom garnished with the _fondue_ of
tomatoes, and cover them with the grilled or fried capsicums.
1110—TOURNEDOS MIKADO
Select some fine, rather firm tomatoes—“Mikados,” as they are
called—and cut them in two laterally. Squeeze them with the object of
expressing all their juice and seeds; season them inside, and grill
them so that they may be ready at the same time as the tournedos.
Season the latter and fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a grilled half-tomato, and
garnish the centre of the dish with Japanese artichokes tossed in
butter.
1111—TOURNEDOS MIRABEAU
Grill the tournedos.
Lay eight fine strips of anchovy fillets upon each, crossing the former
after the manner of a lattice. Cover the edges with a crown of blanched
tarragon leaves, and set a large stoned olive in the middle of each
tournedos.
Send some half-melted anchovy butter separately, and allow
two-thirds oz. of it for each tournedos.
1112—TOURNEDOS MIREILLE
For ten tournedos, prepare in advance, (1) five _croustades_ from the
preparation used for “pommes Duchesse.” To make these _croustades_,
fill some buttered _dariole-moulds_ with the preparation referred to,
taking care to press it snugly into them. Dip the moulds into tepid
water, turn out, treat the mouldings _à l’anglaise_, fry them, hollow
out their centres, and keep them hot.
(2) A _fondue_ of tomatoes in the proportion of one heaped
tablespoonful per _croustade_.
(3) Five timbales of pilaff rice, made after the same manner as the
_croustades_, and kept hot until required for dishing.
Season the tournedos, fry them in butter, and dish them as soon as they
are ready.
Surround them with timbales of rice, and the _croustades_ garnished
with the fondue, the two garnishes to be alternated.
1113—TOURNEDOS MIRETTE
Prepare as many small timbales of “pommes Mirette” (No. 2234) as there
are tournedos.
Turn them out on a dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops
of melted butter, and set them to glaze a few minutes before the
tournedos are ready. Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a
crown, and set a timbale of pommes Mirette upon each.
Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little meat-glaze,
finish with butter, and pour the resulting sauce over the tournedos.
1114—TOURNEDOS A LA MOELLE
Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.
Lay on each of them a large slice of poached marrow, and either
surround them with Bordelaise sauce or send the latter to the table
separately.
1115—TOURNEDOS MONTGOMERY
Season the tournedos and fry them in butter.
Dish them upon a pancake of spinach (No. 2138), cooked in a
tartlet-mould. Deck each tournedos with a rosette of reduced Soubise,
made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, and put a
fine slice of truffle in the centre of the rosette.
1116—TOURNEDOS MONTPENSIER
Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a
garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, in the proportion of
one heaped tablespoonful per tartlet.
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts.
On each of them set a tartlet garnished with asparagus-heads, with a
slice of truffle in the middle.
1117—TOURNEDOS AUX MORILLES
Grill the tournedos or fry them in butter.
Dish them in the form of a crown; in the centre arrange a heap of
morels tossed in butter, and besprinkle them moderately with chopped
parsley.
1118—TOURNEDOS A LA NIÇOISE
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.
In the centre of each tournedos set a small heap, consisting of one
half-tablespoonful of peeled, pressed, and _concassed_ tomatoes, tossed
in butter, together with a little crushed garlic and chopped tarragon.
Surround with small heaps of French beans cohered with butter, and
other heaps of small potatoes, cooked in butter, alternating the two
garnishes.
1119—TOURNEDOS NINON
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon crusts of “pommes
Anna,” stamped out with a round fancy-cutter of the same size as the
tournedos. On each of the latter set a small patty, garnished with
asparagus-heads, cohered with butter and combined with a fine and short
_julienne_ of truffles.
1120—TOURNEDOS PARMENTIER
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.
In the middle of the dish or round it set a fine heap of potatoes, cut
into regular cubes of two-thirds inch side, or raised by means of an
oval, grooved spoon-cutter. The potatoes should be cooked in butter and
kept very soft.
Slightly sprinkle the potatoes with chopped parsley.
1121—TOURNEDOS PERSANE
Prepare as many green capsicums, stuffed with rice moulded to the shape
of balls and braised, and as many grilled half-tomatoes as there are
tournedos. Also have some fried slices of banana ready, and allow three
for each tournedos.
Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, on
the grilled half-tomatoes. On each tournedos set a stuffed and braised
capsicum.
In the centre of the dish arrange the fried slices of banana in a nice
heap. Send separately to the table a Châteaubriand sauce, combined with
the reduced braising-liquor of the capsicums.
1122—TOURNEDOS PERUVIENNE
Prepare, after the manner described below, as many oxalis roots as
there are tournedos.
Peel the oxalis roots; cut a slice from underneath them, in order to
make them stand upright, and hollow them out to form little cases.
Chop up the pulp extracted from them in the last operation, and add it
to a preparation of duxelles, made as for stuffed mushrooms.
Fill the oxalis cases with this preparation, shaping it above their
edges after the manner of a dome; besprinkle with raspings and oil, and
put them in the oven in good time for them to be ready at the same time
as the tournedos.
Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and surround
them with the oxalis cases.
1123—TOURNEDOS PIÉMONTAISE
Butter as many tartlet-moulds as there are tournedos; fill them with
Rizotto à la Piémontaise, combined with white truffles cut into dice,
and keep them hot.
Fry the tournedos in clarified butter; dish them, in the form of a
crown, on the rizotto tartlets, turned out at the last minute.
1124—TOURNEDOS PROVENÇALE
For ten tournedos, prepare (1) ten medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed with
duxelles, slightly flavoured with garlic, and put in the oven in good
time; (2) ten half-tomatoes à la Provençale (No. 2266).
Fry the tournedos in equal quantities of butter and oil; dish them, in
the form of a crown, on fried crusts, with a half-tomato upon each, and
around them set the stuffed mushrooms.
1125—TOURNEDOS RACHEL
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on
fried crusts one-third inch thick.
On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, garnished with a large
slice of poached marrow.
Send a Bordelaise sauce separately.
1126—TOURNEDOS ROSSINI
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown,
upon fried crusts.
On each tournedos set a round slice of foie gras, just a little smaller
than the former; the slices should be seasoned, dredged, and fried in
butter.
On each slice of foie-gras, set a fine slice of truffle.
1127—TOURNEDOS ROUMANILLE
Cut the tournedos a little smaller than usual. Season them; fry them in
butter, and dish them in a circle on grilled half-tomatoes.
Coat the tournedos with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze quickly.
In the middle of each tournedos set a large stuffed and poached olive,
encircled by a ring consisting of an anchovy fillet.
In the centre of the dish arrange a fine heap of egg-plant roundels,
seasoned with salt and pepper, dredged, fried in oil, and kept very
crisp.
1128—TOURNEDOS SAINT MANDE
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a circle,
each on a little cushion of “pommes de terre Macaire,” moulded in
ordinary tartlet-moulds.
In the centre of the dish set a garnish consisting of peas cohered with
butter.
1129—TOURNEDOS A LA SARDE
Prepare a garnish of (1) hollowed, parboiled, and braised sections of
cucumber, stuffed with duxelles, and _gratined_; (2) small tomatoes,
similarly treated; (3) small round croquettes of rice flavoured with
saffron, thickened with egg-yolks, treated _à l’anglaise_, and fried.
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown.
Set a croquette of rice upon each tournedos, and frame the whole with
the stuffed cucumber cases and the stuffed tomatoes, laid alternately.
1130—TOURNEDOS SOUBISE
Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.
Serve a light Soubise purée separately.
1131—TOURNEDOS TIVOLI
For ten tournedos, prepare ten small grilled mushrooms, and allow one
half-tomato tossed in butter for each mushroom.
Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon
fried crusts. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, garnished with
a tossed half-tomato, and all round set some fine “pommes soufflées”
made in ribbon-form, of a round shape, and in the proportion of one
potato to each tournedos.
Send a Béarnaise sauce separately.
1132—TOURNEDOS TYROLIENNE
For ten tournedos, prepare the following sauce:—Gently cook one chopped
onion in butter; add two peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes,
salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and a little crushed garlic.
When the tomatoes are sufficiently cooked, add thereto a few
tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and set to boil for five minutes.
Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, and
cover them with the prepared sauce.
1133—TOURNEDOS VALENÇAY
Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, each
on a small, round, and flat croquette of noodles and ham, fried just
before dishing up.
Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.
1134—TOURNEDOS VALENTINO
Prepare as many pieces of turnips, of the same diameter as the
tournedos and one and one-half inch thick, as there are tournedos.
Cut them neatly round, stamp them with an even and round cutter, and
parboil them until they are almost completely cooked. Hollow them out,
by means of a spoon, inside the mark left by the fancy-cutter, and
stuff them with a preparation of semolina with Parmesan.
Put these stuffed pieces of turnip in a sautépan; add a little water,
butter, and sugar, and glaze them while finishing their cooking-process.
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle, each on a
stuffed case of turnip.
1135—TOURNEDOS VERT-PRÉ
Grill the tournedos, and dish them simply with half-melted butter à la
Maître-d’Hôtel upon them.
Surround them with alternate heaps of water-cress and freshly-fried
straw potatoes.
1136—TOURNEDOS VICTORIA
Fry the tournedos in butter.
Dish them in a circle, each on a little round and flat croquette of
chicken-meat. On each tournedos set a half-tomato tossed in butter.
1137—TOURNEDOS VILLARET
Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a
sufficient quantity of very smooth flageolet purée to garnish the
tartlets; (3) a fine grilled tomato per each tournedos.
Grill the tournedos, and dish them on the garnished tartlets. On each
tournedos set a grilled mushroom, the hollow of which should have been
filled with Châteaubriand sauce.
1138—TOURNEDOS VILLENEUVE
Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle on little
quoit-shaped croquettes of chicken-meat, fried at the last moment.
On each tournedos set a crown of small roundels of tongue and truffle,
laid alternately, and a small grooved mushroom in the middle.
Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately.
1139—TOURNEDOS VILLEMER
Grill the tournedos, and dish them in a circle, each on a fried,
hollowed-out crust, garnished with truffled Soubise.
On each tournedos set a large slice of truffle coated with meat-glaze.
1140—FILETS EN CHEVREUIL
For the “en chevreuil” treatment, the meat used is generally cut from
the narrowest end of the fillet of beef. The weight of the pieces cut
should average about three oz. each.
After having slightly flattened and trimmed them, lard them with very
thin strips of bacon, and _marinade_ them for a few hours in the raw
_marinade_ given under No. 169. When about to cook them, dry them
thoroughly, and fry them quickly in hot oil, taking care that the
latter be smoking, and therefore hot enough to set the meat and to
cause its external moisture to evaporate.
The fillets may be accompanied by all vegetable purées and
highly-seasoned sauces, the most suitable of the latter being the
Poivrade and the Chasseur.
1141—SIRLOIN OF BEEF (Relevé)
Sirloin of beef is that part of the bullock’s back reaching from the
haunch to the floating ribs, which is equivalent to the saddle in veal
and mutton. This piece, however, cannot properly be called “sirloin,”
except when it comprises the fillet or undercut, and the upper fillet
(Fr.: contrefilet), so-called to distinguish it from the undercut. If
this joint be treated whole, it need only be shortened by suppressing
the flank, and by sectioning the ligament lying alongside of the chine
on the upper fillet, in different places.
A little fat is left on the undercut, but none whatever must be removed
from the upper fillet. As a rule, when sirloin of beef is braised, it
is cut laterally into pieces weighing from six to seven lbs. If it is
to be roasted, it is best to keep it whole.
When served as a relevé, it is braised or roasted, and is kept
underdone if so desired. Unless it be of excellent quality, however,
braised sirloin generally turns out to be dry.
All garnishes given for “Filet de Bœuf” may be served with sirloin;
but, as a rule, the bulkiest, such as the “Richelieu,” the
“Provençale,” the “Godard,” &c., are selected.
The accompanying sauce is that indicated for the above garnishes.
1142—PORTERHOUSE-STEAK (Grill)
Porterhouse-steak is a slice from the sirloin of beef, which may be
more or less thick. It is cleared of the flank and of the bones of the
chine, and it is always grilled.
It may be served with any of the various garnishes and sauces suited to
grills; but it is more often served plain.
1143—UPPER FILLET AND RIBS OF BEEF (Relevé)
The upper fillet is that part of beef which lies between the top of the
haunch and the floating ribs, alongside of the chine. It may be treated
like the fillet, and all the garnishes suited to the latter may also be
applied here.
If the piece is to be braised, it should be completely boned; if
intended for roasting, it is best to retain the bones. In the latter
case, the large ligament should be cut at various points with the view
of preventing distortion, while the bones constituting the spinous
process should be broken close to the point where they join the body of
the vertebræ, that they may be easily removed when the meat is being
carved.
The upper fillet, especially when it is of good quality, is best
roasted.
Ribs of beef may likewise be braised or roasted.
In either case, the meat should be properly trimmed and cleared of all
the bones of the spinous process.
This piece should only be used after having been well hung, in order
that it may be as tender as possible.
1144—GRILLED SIRLOIN STEAKS AND RIBS OF BEEF
The sirloin steak may be cut either from the upper fillet or the ribs
of beef, _i.e._, between two rib-bones. In order that its cooking may
be regular, it should not weigh more than from two to three lbs.
Ribs of beef may also be grilled, provided they be sufficiently tender.
They may be braised, too, and in this case they are served with any of
the various garnishes given under Fillet of Beef.
1145—PIÈCE DE BŒUF BRAISÉE (Relevé)
The piece of beef called rump is the one preferred for boiling and
braising. Whatever be the use for which the meat is intended, the
weight of the pieces should not be more than six or eight lbs. at
the most, and they should be cut in the length rather than in the
thickness, that the cooking process may be facilitated.
All the garnishes of braised sirloin of beef are suited to braised
pieces of beef.
Boiled beef is generally accompanied by the vegetables used in its
cooking-process, by purées, green or dry vegetables, pastes, macaroni,
&c., &c.
1146—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA BOURGUIGNONNE
Lard the piece of beef, and _marinade_ it for three hours in brandy and
red wine. Braise it after the manner described under No. 247; moisten
first with the wine of the _marinade_, and, when the latter is reduced,
with some veal gravy and one-half pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of
liquid, taking care that the whole moistening reaches the top of the
piece of meat. Add a faggot and some mushroom parings; set to boil, and
cook gently in the oven.
When the meat is two-thirds cooked, transfer it to another saucepan,
and surround it with mushrooms cut into two or four, according to their
size, and tossed in butter; breast of bacon, cut into dice, blanched
and tossed in butter, and some small onions half-glazed with butter.
Strain the sauce through a sieve over the piece of beef and its
garnish, and complete the cooking gently.
A few minutes before serving, put the meat on a dish and glaze it in
the oven. Transfer the meat to the dish intended for the table; quickly
reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the piece of beef and
the garnish.
1147—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA CUILLER
Select a very square or oval piece of beef, and bear in mind, in
selecting it, that it will have to be fashioned to the shape of a case
when it has been cooked.
String it, and braise it after the manner described under No. 247,
almost entirely covering it with moistening liquor.
Set it to cook gently; withdraw the piece when the meat is still
somewhat firm, and let it cool under slight pressure.
This done, cut out the meat from the inside; leave a thickness of about
half-inch round the sides and on the bottom, and the piece thus emptied
should constitute a square or oval case, in accordance with the shape
originally adopted.
Coat the outside of the whole piece with a mixture of beaten eggs and
fine bread-crumbs, combined with Parmesan; sprinkle melted butter over
it with a brush, and put the case into a sufficiently hot oven to allow
of a crust forming round it.
Meanwhile chop up the meat extracted from the inside of the piece; add
thereto a little salted tongue, some braised slices of sweet-bread,
and mushrooms; put the whole into a sautépan with an Italian or a
half-glaze sauce, according to the requirements, and heat this garnish.
N.B.—This preparation was quite common in old-fashioned cookery, but
though it is still served occasionally, it is now looked upon more as
a curiosity than anything else. As a curiosity, therefore, I chose to
include it among these recipes; but it does not follow from this that I
in any way recommend it.
1148—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA FLAMANDE
Lard the piece of beef, and braise it as explained under No. 247.
Meanwhile prepare the following garnish:—(1) Cut a nice firm cabbage
into four, remove the heart, and parboil it for seven or eight minutes.
Drain it; cool it; divide up the quarters, leaf by leaf, so as to
remove the hard ribs, and season with salt and pepper.
Mould them to the shape of balls by pressing them in the corner of a
towel into balls weighing about three oz. each, or simply put them
into a saucepan with a quartered carrot, an onion stuck with a clove,
a faggot, six oz. of blanched breast of pork, and a little raw sausage
with garlic, which latter must be withdrawn after cooking has gone on
for one and one-half hours.
Moisten the cabbage with just sufficient consommé to cover it; add a
few tablespoonfuls of good stock-fat; set to boil, and cook gently in
the oven for one and one-half hours.
(2) Cut the required quantity of carrots and turnips to the shape of
olives; cook them in consommé, and reduce the latter for the purpose of
glazing.
(3) Prepare some potatoes _à l’anglaise_.
Set the piece of beef on a dish large enough to allow of the former
being surrounded with the moulded or plainly-heaped cabbages, the
glazed carrots and turnips, and the potatoes _à_ _l’anglaise_. The
last two vegetables should be set in alternate heaps with the cabbages
and the bacon (cut into small rectangles) and the sausage (cut into
roundels) should be distributed all round.
Serve separately the gravy of the piece of beef, cleared of all grease,
reduced to a half-glaze and strained.
1149—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE CHAUDE
Lard the piece of beef, which should not, if possible, weigh more than
from four to five lbs. The strips of bacon used for larding ought to
have been prepared fifteen or twenty minutes in advance, _marinaded_ in
a few tablespoonfuls of brandy, and sprinkled with parsley just before
being used.
Rub the piece with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put it into a basin
with one bottle of red wine and one-fifth pint of brandy, and set it
to _marinade_ for four or five hours, taking care to turn it over from
time to time.
Then set it to braise after the manner described under No. 247; add its
_marinade_ to the moistening, and surround it with three small, boned,
blanched, and strung calf’s feet.
When the cooking is three-quarters done, transfer the piece of beef to
another saucepan, and surround it with the following garnish:—
1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated
olives, and already two-thirds cooked.
2. Small onions coloured in two-thirds lb. of butter.
3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces.
Strain the braising-liquor over the whole, and complete the cooking
gently. When about to serve, either glaze the piece of beef, or dish it
plain; coat it lightly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter,
with the garnish, in a timbale.
1150—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE FROIDE
Bœuf à la mode is very rarely prepared specially for cold dishing, the
remains of a fine piece being generally used for that purpose. The
piece of meat must first be well trimmed. If the quantity of sauce do
not seem enough, or if the sauce itself seem too stiff, add a third of
its volume of aspic jelly to it.
For moulding, take a _terrine à pâté_, a mould, or other utensil
capable of holding the piece of meat, its garnish, and its sauce. Deck
the bottom of the utensil in any suitable way with the carrots and the
onions, and surround the piece with what remains of the latter and the
dice of calf’s foot.
Add the sauce, combined with the jelly, after having passed it through
a strainer, and put the whole in the cool for a few hours. Turn out
just before serving, and surround with very light, chopped jelly.
1151—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA NOAILLES
Lard the piece of beef, and _marinade_ it in brandy and red wine.
This done, dry it thoroughly, and brown it evenly in butter all over;
moisten it with its _marinade_ and an equal quantity of veal gravy, and
set to cook gently.
When the meat is half-cooked, surround it with two lbs. of minced
onions, tossed in butter, and three oz. of rice. Complete the cooking
of the piece with onions and rice.
Now withdraw the piece of beef, and quickly rub the onions and the rice
through tammy. Reduce this Soubise with rice for a few moments.
Neatly trim the piece of beef; cut it into even slices; reconstruct it
on a dish, and between each slice pour a tablespoonful of Soubise purée.
Cover the reconstructed piece of beef with the remainder of the
Soubise; sprinkle the surface with two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs
fried in butter, and some melted butter, and put the whole in the oven,
that the _gratin_ may form speedily.
1152—THE RUMP
=Rumpsteak and Beefsteak.=
The rump is that portion of the sirloin of beef which touches the top
of the haunch.
It may be braised, but it is more often grilled in slices from one inch
to one and one-half inches thick, which are called “rumpsteaks.”
With reference to this subject, it is as well to point out that the
term “Beefsteak,” so hackneyed in France, is scarcely used in England,
owing to its want of precision.
In France, beefsteak is either a cut from the fillet, the upper-fillet,
or the rump, according to the standing of the catering-house which
supplies it. But the nature of the piece cannot very well be mistaken,
inasmuch as the term beefsteak, which designates it, is generally
followed by other French words which reveal its origin, whereas in
England the term “Beefsteak” does not convey any particular meaning.
Rumpsteak is either grilled or _sautéd_, but whatever be the method of
cooking it, it is generally served plain.
All garnishes suited to fillets, however, may be served with it, as
also the various butters and sauces generally used with grills.
1153—LANGUE DE BŒUF
Ox tongue is served fresh or salted, but, even when it is to be served
fresh, it is all the better for having been put in salt a few days
previously. In order to salt it, put it into a special brine, as
explained under No. 172. When salted, it is cooked in boiling water;
when fresh, it is braised exactly after the manner of any other piece
of meat.
Ox tongue may be served with almost all the garnishes suited
to relevés of fillet of beef, but more particularly with the
following:—Bourgeoise; Flamande; Milanaise; Noodles or Macaroni with
cream, cheese or tomatoes; and all vegetable purées.
The most suitable sauces are:—Madeira sauce, Piquante sauce, Tomato
sauce, or their derivatives.
1154—LANGUE DE BŒUF CHOUCROÛTE
Braise the tongue as described under No. 247, and glaze it at the last
moment. Dish it, and send to the table separately (1) a timbale of
well-braised sauerkraut; (2) a timbale of potato purée; (3) a Madeira
sauce, combined with the braising-liquor of the tongue, cleared of all
grease, and reduced.
1155—LANGUE DE BŒUF BOURGEOISE
Braise the tongue in the usual way.
When it is two-thirds cooked, surround it with carrots fashioned to the
shape of olives and already two-thirds cooked, and small onions browned
in butter.
Complete the cooking gently, and for the rest of the operation, proceed
as for “Pièce de Bœuf à la Mode chaude.”
1156—LANGUE DE BŒUF AUX FÈVES
Tongue intended for this preparation should be put in salt a few days
in advance.
Boil it in the usual way and very gently; glaze it when about to serve,
and dish it. Send to the table separately (1) a timbale of very fresh,
skinned, broad beans, cooked in salted water with a spray of savory,
and cohered with butter at the last moment.
(2) A Madeira sauce.
1157—LANGUE DE BŒUF FLAMANDE
Braise the tongue, and glaze it at the last moment. Surround it with
the garnish “à la Flamande” given under the beef recipe of that name,
_i.e._, braised cabbages, glazed carrots and turnips, potatoes _à
l’anglaise_, rectangles of lean bacon, and roundels of sausage.
1158—LANGUES DE BŒUF FROIDES
Ox tongues intended for cold dishing should be kept in brine (No. 172)
for eight or ten days. When about to use them, put them to soak in cold
water for a few hours, and then cook them plainly in water for three
hours.
This done, withdraw them from their cooking-liquor; skin them; cover
them with buttered paper, and let them cool. The object of the paper is
to keep off the air, the tendency of which is to blacken the surface of
the meat.
When quite cool, coat the tongues with a glaze composed of one-half lb.
of gelatine dissolved in one pint of water; the latter is given a
scarlet tint by means of carmine and caramel.
Cold ox tongues are dished amidst aspic jelly dice and curled-leaf
parsley.
N.B.—The gelatine glaze described above will be found a great
improvement upon the coating of reddened gold-beaters’ skin.
OX TAILS.
Ox tails, sectioned or unsectioned, are usually braised, and only the
thicker half of the caudal appendage is ever used.
1159—QUEUE DE BŒUF A L’AUVERGNATE
Section the tail, and braise it in white wine, after recipe No. 247.
Prepare a garnish of rectangles of lean bacon, large chestnuts cooked
in consommé and glazed, and small onions cooked in butter.
Put the sections of the tail in an earthenware _cocotte_ with the
garnish.
1160—QUEUE DE BŒUF A LA CAVOUR
Section the tail, and braise it in a moistening two-thirds of which is
brown stock and one-third white wine. It is well for the moistening to
be somewhat abundant. Set to cook very gently, until the meat falls
from the bones, _i.e._, for a matter of about four and one-half or five
hours.
This done, dish the sections of the tail in a _cocotte_; add some
small, cooked mushrooms; clear the cooking-liquor of grease; reduce
it, and thicken it slightly with fecula. Strain this thickened
cooking-liquor over the sections of the tail and the mushrooms, and set
to boil very gently for ten minutes.
Serve thus in the _cocotte_ set on a dish, and send a timbale of
chestnut purée to the table at the same time.
1161—QUEUE DE BŒUF FARCIE
Choose a large ox tail, and bone it carefully without bursting it.
Lay it on a napkin, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of the
following ingredients:—Three-quarters lb. of very lean beef and
one-half lb. of chopped fat bacon, the two mixed with four oz. of
bread-crumbs soaked in milk and pressed; two whole eggs; three oz.
of truffle peel; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a very
little spice.
Sew up the tail, cover it with a piece of linen after the manner of a
galantine, and cook it gently for three hours in a very light stock
with vegetables as for boiled beef.
At the end of the three hours take it out of the linen; put it into a
sautépan, the bottom of which should be garnished as for a braising;
add a little of the cooking-liquor of the tail, and complete the
cooking, basting often the while. Take care to baste more frequently
towards the close of the operation with the view of properly glazing
the meat.
When about to serve, dish it, after having removed all string, and
lightly coat the bottom of the dish with a sauce consisting of the
cooking-liquor, reduced and thickened with arrow-root. Send what
remains of the cooking-liquor in a sauceboat.
Serve separately either a purée, a garnish of braised vegetables, or
one of the sauces suited to pieces of beef.
1162—QUEUE DE BŒUF GRILLÉE
Cut the tail into sections twice the usual length, and cook these in a
stewpan for five hours with salted water and aromatics.
Drain the sections; dry them well; dip them in melted butter, and roll
them in very fine bread-crumbs. Sprinkle with melted butter, and set to
grill gently.
Grilled ox tail may be served with any vegetable purée. An ordinary
Soubise, or one prepared “à la Noailles,” as explained under the piece
of beef of that name, also suits very well.
In any case, the Soubise should be sufficiently thick.
Such sauces as à la Diable, Hachée, Piquante, Robert, Tomato,
Italienne, &c., are also suited to grilled ox tail.
N.B.—When the adjunct to grilled ox tail is a highly-seasoned sauce,
the sections should first be covered with a coat of mustard, then
dipped in melted butter, and finally rolled in bread-crumbs.
1163—QUEUE DE BŒUF EN HOCHEPOT
Cut the tail into sections, and put these into a stewpan of convenient
size, with two pig’s trotters, each of which must be cut into four or
five pieces, and one pig’s ear. Cover the whole with cold water; add
salt to the extent of one-third oz. per quart of the liquid; set to
boil; skim, and leave to cook gently for two hours.
This done, add one small cabbage, cut into quarters, parboiled and
cooled; ten small onions; five oz. of carrots, and the same weight of
turnips, cut to the shape of large, garlic cloves.
Set the whole to cook for a further two hours at least.
When about to serve, dish the sections of tail in a circle; put the
vegetable garnish in the centre, and surround the latter with the pig’s
ear cut into small, narrow strips, and ten grilled chipolata sausages.
Serve, separately, a timbale of potatoes cooked _à l’anglaise_.
=Various Preparations of Beef.=
1164—STEWED STEAKS AND ONIONS
Select some steaks one and one-third inches thick; fry them in butter
on both sides, and set them to braise in short moistening, with a
sufficient quantity of quartered and browned onions to constitute an
abundant garnish.
Leave the whole to cook gently for three hours.
Dish the steak, and surround it with the onions and the braising-liquor
cleared of all grease and reduced.
1165—SALT BEEF
The pieces of beef chiefly selected for salting are brisket, silver
side, and round of beef, and these are always boiled for a more or less
lengthy period, according to their size.
To the cooking-liquor is added a copious garnish of carrots and
turnips. These are served with the meat, together with a sauceboat of
cooking-liquor and a suet dumpling, prepared as follows:—
1166—SUET DUMPLING
Finely chop up some suet; add to it an equal quantity of flour and
about one-quarter oz. of salt per lb. of suet and flour.
Moisten with just enough water to make a thick paste of about the same
consistence as brioche-paste. Cut this paste into portions weighing
about one oz., and roll them into small balls. Put the latter in a
sautépan containing some boiling beef cooking-liquor, which need not
have been cleared of grease, and let them poach for one and one-half
hours.
Now drain the dumplings, and arrange them around the meat with the
garnish of carrots and turnips, as explained above.
1167—COLD SALT BEEF
Salt beef, served cold, constitutes an excellent sideboard dish for
luncheons.
It need only be neatly trimmed all round, care being taken to preserve
all the fat so highly esteemed by some. Indeed, a piece of cold salt
fat is sometimes added to that already existing around and in the meat,
in which case the extra quantity is fixed to the beef by means of a
_hatelet_.
1168—PRESSED BEEF
Salt beef also serves in the preparation of “Pressed Beef,” but, for
this purpose, the breast is generally used.
After having thoroughly cooked the salted breast of beef in accordance
with the procedure indicated for salt beef, cut it into large pieces of
the same size as the moulds into which the meat is going to be pressed.
Lay the pieces of beef one on top of another in a square or rectangular
mould, and cover with a thick board, cut flush with the inside edge of
the mould. Now apply pressure, either by means of a strong press or
heavy weight, and leave the beef to cool under the applied pressure.
When the meat is quite cold, turn it out; trim it carefully on all
sides, and glaze it, _i.e._, cover it entirely with a coating of rather
firm, clarified gelatine, brought by means of carmine and caramel to a
nice red-brown colour.
1169—STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING
Cut three lbs. of very lean beef into slices one-third inch thick.
Season these slices with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add a little
chopped onion and parsley. Take a pudding-basin; line it with a firm
layer of suet-dough (No. 1166), and garnish the bottom and sides of the
basin with the slices of beef.
In the middle put one lb. of kidney of beef, of veal, or of mutton,
cut up as for tossing, and seasoned like the steaks. Moisten with just
sufficient water to cover.
Now close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as that used in
lining, pinching it with the latter, all round, that it may adhere
thoroughly. In order to effect this with greater certainty, the
respective edges of the two layers of paste may be moistened.
This done, cover the basin with a buttered and dredged napkin, fastened
on by means of string tied round just beneath the lip of the utensil.
Cook for five hours, either in boiling water or in steam, and, after
having removed the napkin, serve the pudding as it stands.
1170—STEAK PUDDING
Make some rather stiff paste with two lbs. of flour, one and
one-quarter lbs. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, a pinch of salt,
and one-quarter pint of water.
With the rolling-pin, roll out this paste to a round layer one-quarter
inch thick, and put it into a buttered dome-mould or pudding-basin.
Cut the lean beef into pieces, and season them, exactly as for steak
and kidney pudding. Fill up the basin with the pieces arranged in
layers; moisten with just enough water to cover, and close up the basin
with a layer of the same paste as that used for its lining.
Carefully join the edges of the two layers of paste, assisting the
operation with a little moisture applied by means of a brush; swathe
the basin in a buttered pudding-cloth, and fasten the latter firmly
with string.
Put the pudding in a saucepan of boiling water or a steamer, and leave
it to cook for three hours if the beef has been cut from the fillet,
and for four hours if cut from any other piece.
At the end of the required time take the pudding out of the saucepan
and remove the cloth.
Dish on a folded napkin.
1171—STEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING
Proceed exactly as for steak and kidney pudding, but take only two lbs.
of beef, and replace the odd pound by forty fine oysters.
1172—DAUBE CHAUDE A LA PROVENÇALE
Cut four lbs. of shoulder or cushion of beef into cubes weighing about
four oz. each. Lard each piece of meat with a strip of bacon two inches
long by one-half inch wide, and put the cubes or pieces into a bowl
with salt, pepper, a very little spice, five or six tablespoonfuls of
vinegar, and a glass of red wine. Leave to _marinade_ for two or three
hours, and toss the pieces, from time to time, in the _marinading_
liquor, in order that each may be well saturated with it. Heat six oz.
of grated bacon in an earthenware stewpan, and brown therein twelve
small onions, fifteen carrots in the shape of olives, two sticks of
celery cut into pieces of the same size as the carrots, and four cloves
of garlic. Add the _marinaded_ pieces of meat, which should have been
properly dried; fry the whole, meat and vegetables, for a further seven
or eight minutes, and moisten with the _marinade_ and two glasses more
of red wine.
Complete with one-half lb. of fresh bacon rind, _blanched_ and cut into
square pieces of two-thirds inch side; a faggot made up of parsley
stalks, thyme, bay, and, in the centre, a small piece of dry lemon
rind. Set to boil, completely close the stewpan, and leave to cook in a
moderate oven for six or seven hours.
When about to serve, remove the faggot, clear all grease from the
gravy, and dish in a hot timbale, or serve the “daube” in the stewpan
itself.
1173—DAUBE A LA PROVENÇALE FROIDE
A daube is rarely prepared specially for cold dishing; generally the
remains of one already served hot are used.
Take the pieces, one by one, with a fork, and place them in a _terrine
à pâté_ with the carrots, onions, and squares of bacon rind, which have
remained almost untouched.
Strain the gravy over them through an ordinary strainer, pressing
lightly the while, and leave to cool.
When about to serve, turn out the daube on a cold dish, and surround
with chopped aspic jelly.
1174—CARBONNADES A LA FLAMANDE
Cut three lbs. of lean shoulder or cushion of beef into thin, short
slices. Season the latter with salt and pepper, and brown them
quickly on both sides in stock fat. At the same time toss one and
one-quarter lbs. of minced onions in butter, until they are well
browned.
Put the slices of beef and the onions in alternate layers into a
saucepan, and in their midst place a faggot.
Drain the grease from the sautépan in which the slices were fried;
swill with one and one-half pints of beer (old Lambic in preference);
add the same quantity of brown stock, thicken with four oz. of brown
roux; finish the seasoning with one and one-half oz. of powdered sugar;
set to boil, stirring the while, and strain this sauce over the slices
of beef and the onions.
Cover and cook gently in the oven for from two and one-half to three
hours.
N.B.—Carbonnades are served thus, mingled with the onions; but they may
also be dished in a timbale and covered with a Soubise consisting of
the onion and the sauce rubbed through tammy.
1175—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF
Cold roast or boiled meats may be warmed up in many different ways.
In their preparation, however, the reader should follow one rule, the
non-observance of which invariably leads to failure.
Whatever the meat be, it should first be cut into the thinnest possible
slices; set on a dish, and covered with a boiling sauce or garnish,
which should effect its warming up. If the meat boil in the sauce or
garnish, it toughens, and this, above all, should be avoided when roast
meat is used.
Sauces suited to _Émincés_ are the Bordelaise, the Piquante, the
Italienne, the Chasseur, the Poivrade, the Périgueux, and the Tomato.
1176—ÉMINCÉ DE BŒUF EN MIROTON
For one lb. of beef mince two fine onions somewhat finely, and toss
them in butter until they are evenly and well _gilded_.
Sprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of flour; set to cook for a
moment, and then moisten with one-half glassful of white wine and
one-half pint of consommé; season with a pinch of pepper; boil, and
leave to cook gently for seven or eight minutes.
The flour may be dispensed with, but, in this case, the white wine is
reduced to two-thirds, one-half pint of half-glaze is added, and the
whole is cooked for seven or eight minutes.
Cut the beef into very thin slices, and set these on a dish.
A minute before serving, add a few drops of vinegar to the onions;
cover the meat with the onions and the sauce; stand the dish for a
moment on the hob, and sprinkle it slightly with chopped parsley.
N.B.—When the miroton is prepared with boiled beef, the slices should
be cut somewhat more thickly, and left to simmer gently in the sauce
for as long as possible—an hour or more if necessary.
The miroton is then dished with some minced gherkins, sprinkled with
raspings, and placed in the oven at the last moment for the _gratin_ to
form.