_Instructions for choosing it._
Veal is _best_ and _cheapest_ from _March_ to _July_.
Veal ought to be fine in the grain, firm, white, and fat. The leg bone
should be small. If fresh, the eyes will be full and bright, the flesh
not clammy but dry, and the large vein of the shoulder of a bright red.
The kidney taints soonest, and if that be sweet, and neither soft nor
slimy, the whole calf is fresh. On the contrary, if any part of the
flesh be green or yellow, or feels flabby, it is stale. The fillet of
a cow-calf is preferable on account of the udder, but the meat of the
bull-calf is generally firmest, whitest, and best, when dressed. The
finest calves have the smallest kidneys.