SVERDRUP’S EXPEDITION (1898−1902)
A few days after the return of the _Fram_, Sverdrup was asked by Nansen
whether he wished to go on another expedition to the north. He then
explained that Consul Axel Heiberg and the firm of brewers, Messrs.
Ringnes Brothers, were willing to equip a new Polar expedition with
Sverdrup as the leader. The offer was quickly accepted.
The route agreed upon was up Smith Sound and through Robeson Channel,
and as far along the north coast of Greenland as possible before
wintering. Sledge-journeys were then to be made to the northernmost
point of Greenland, and as far down the east coast as could be attained.
The Norwegian Government not only gave the loan of the _Fram_, but
granted about £1100 for necessary alterations.
It was intended to provision the _Fram_ for two or three years, but in
the end there was enough for five.
The only member of the first expedition to accompany Sverdrup was
Hendriksen. The full party numbered sixteen, and included a botanist, a
zoologist, and a geologist.
The _Fram_ left Christiania on 24th June 1898, and on the 27th it left
Christiansand, a course being set for the south of Greenland, which was
sighted on the 17th July.
On 28th July a stop was made at Egedesminde, where it had been arranged
that the Royal Greenland Trade Service would have dogs for the
expedition. In Sverdrup’s opinion the two indispensable adjuncts to the
carrying out of polar research are ski and dogs, and for the Eskimo dog
he has a great admiration. His experience was that one man cannot manage
more than eight dogs.
Egedesminde was left on the 29th July, and next day Godhavn was reached.
Here, coal, water, and more dogs were taken on board, and on the 2nd
August a course was shaped for Upernavik, which was reached on the 4th.
Upernavik was left behind on the 5th August, and Melville Bay was
entered on the following day. Here the _Fram_ was detained six days in
the ice, and did not reach open water till the 16th.
The first place visited was Foulke Fiord, where they expected to obtain
large game, but were disappointed. The _Fram_ was next steered for
Littleton Island, where records were deposited. The view of the ice from
the island was not encouraging, but Sverdrup continued along the coast
of Greenland. The ice, however, lay immovable close in to land, and the
_Fram_ was forced to turn back on the night of 17th August.
When abreast of Littleton Island a course was steered to Ellesmere Land,
and then the coast was followed northwards; but when north of Cape
Sabine the _Fram_ was stopped by impenetrable ice. To avoid being
pressed ashore, it was found necessary to anchor the _Fram_ in the
northern part of Rice Strait. For some time it was hoped that the ice
would drift south and allow a passage to the north, but ultimately the
party were compelled to take up winter quarters in Rice Strait.
Preparations were soon made for autumn sledging through Hayes Sound, and
before the winter darkness set in it was discovered that the Sound
divided into two fiords, and one of these was penetrated to its head.
The valleys in this region were found to support large numbers of
musk-oxen, but as Sverdrup failed to detect the flavour of musk either
in the flesh or in the milk, he preferred to use the term “polar oxen.”
A more or less permanent camp was formed on the point of land where
Hayes Sound divides into Beitstadfiord and Jokelfiord. It received the
name of “Fort Juliana.” While Sverdrup was here on 6th October he met
Peary, who was out on a sledge-journey. Peary’s ship had passed Cape
Sabine on 13th August, and on the 15th had been beset off Cape Hawks,
where it had to winter.
Sverdrup’s party passed the winter busily engaged in various
preparations for exploration in the spring. The winter quarters were not
far from Greely’s starvation-camp, but little trace of it could be
found.
On the 18th March 1899 an Eskimo from Inglefield Gulf on his way to
Peary’s ship paid the _Fram_ a visit, and other Eskimo arrived during
the course of the spring.
On the 19th March, when the Eskimo left the ship on his way to Peary, he
was accompanied by Baumann, Sverdrup’s second in command, and by Hassel,
one of the crew, who wished to visit Peary. The _Windward_ was reached
without incident, but at that time Peary himself was confined to his
cabin. In February, during a sledge-journey, most of his toes were
frost-bitten, and had to be amputated.
On 17th April, Sverdrup with three men left the ship to make an attempt
to cross Ellesmere Land to the west coast. Two days were taken to reach
Fort Juliana, which was left on 20th April. After leaving this camp, the
ice was found very favourable, and a distance of 38 miles was covered
during the first day. At the head of the fiord Sverdrup decided to
continue the journey with Bay the zoologist, while the other two were to
make a survey from the head of the fiord back to the _Fram_.
Sverdrup’s route now lay along the bed of a river, but in the afternoon
of the first day rapids were met, and a halt had to be made so that the
country ahead could be examined. By making a détour round the rapids,
across some sand-hills, better travelling was found, and the ground up
to the watershed was covered quickly.
Polar oxen were met in considerable numbers. When attacked, they form a
square with the calves and heifers in the middle, and the bulls and cows
standing in line of defence at equal distances. Sometimes the fiercest
of the bulls form a kind of outpost about 25 yards distant from the
square, and make individual attacks. When once the square has been
formed, the animals remain at their posts until the attack is repulsed
or the entire square fallen. They have developed their strategic
reasoning powers to a wonderful extent.
West of the watershed the country became bare of snow, and progress was
arrested by an impassable cañon. After various endeavours to find a
passage for the sledges, Sverdrup decided to carry provisions for three
days, and to take the dogs loose. In two days they reached a large
fiord, which was named “Bay Fiord” after Sverdrup’s companion. The
return journey was made without special incident.
On 23rd May, Isachsen, the cartographer of the expedition, with
Braskerud, set out to cross the glaciated part of Ellesmere Land. The
west coast was reached on 4th June. They found considerable difficulty
on many occasions in extricating themselves and the dogs from the
crevasses in the glaciers, but the journey was completed without serious
accident. They reached the _Fram_ on 2nd July.
On the 2nd June two expeditions left the ship. One was composed of Schei
the geologist, and the doctor, Johan Svendsen. The other was composed of
Simmons the botanist and Sverdrup. Both parties travelled together
during the first day, and then separated. On the 6th June, Sverdrup and
his companion were at Fort Juliana, when the other party unexpectedly
arrived. The doctor had taken ill while driving up the fiord. He was
made as comfortable as circumstances would allow. He was snow-blind, and
also complained of pains in his chest. Sverdrup wished to take him back
to the _Fram_, but he said he would soon get well, and he preferred to
stay where he was. Two days afterwards the doctor was much better, and
helped to harness the dogs and lash the loads when the rest of the party
were setting out on a four-days’ trip to Beitstadfiord. The doctor said
he would stay behind at Fort Juliana and employ his time in collecting
insects and in shooting. They then parted, little thinking what was
about to happen. On their return to camp they were horrified to find the
doctor dead. The body was removed to the _Fram_, and then received a
seaman’s funeral in Rice Strait. The doctor’s death was a great blow to
the whole party, and some of the strongest did not recover from it until
months afterwards.
During July the dépôt at Fort Juliana was withdrawn, and preparations
were made to sail north. An attempt was made on the 24th July, but the
_Fram_ could not get beyond Pim Island. Next day, in order to avoid the
pressure of the pack, the ship had to retreat to its winter harbour.
On 4th August another attempt was made to proceed north. Things went
well until the _Fram_ was abreast of Cape Camperdown, but here the ice
compelled them to steer a course more and more to the east. While in
this position, a steamer was seen to issue from Payer Harbour. Sverdrup
at once came to the conclusion that it was looking for Peary, and would
probably have letters from Norway. An attempt was made to meet each
other, but they could not get nearer than about 5 miles. Then the
American ship signalled that she had letters on board for Sverdrup, and
steered off southward. The farthest point reached by the _Fram_ was
about abreast of Cape Hawks. Here she lay in the ice several days, and
at last got free only a few miles north of Cape Sabine.
Sverdrup now decided to go across to Foulke Fiord. There one of Peary’s
ships was found, and it was ascertained that the Norwegian mail had been
left at Payer Harbour.
Foulke Fiord was left on 12th August, and a course was steered for Payer
Harbour to fetch the mail. It was soon seen, however, that it was
impossible to reach it through such masses of ice as were encountered. A
course was tried farther south, but with no better result. Then several
attempts were made along the Greenland side, and across towards Payer
Harbour, but each ended in failure.
After a good deal of deliberation, it was finally decided to make for
Jones Sound. It was a great disappointment that they were unable to
proceed through Kane Basin towards the north of Greenland; and the
failure to reach their letters very much depressed the spirits of the
party.
A course was now set for the walrus-shoals off Northumberland Island,
where twenty-two of the animals were killed to serve as dog-food during
the winter.
Jones Sound was entered on 24th August. A place of anchorage was found
in a fiord a little west of Cone Island. It was afterwards named “Fram
Fiord.” On the night of 28th August this fiord was left, and the _Fram_
proceeded west as far as Havnefiord, where a winter harbour was secured.
After various short trips, Sverdrup with three men set out on 8th
September to put down dépôts of dog-food as far west as possible, so as
to be prepared for long journeys. The water was still open, and the
party went by boat. On the 10th they reached a fiord, afterwards named
“Baadsfiord,” and they formed a dépôt on its eastern side. They now
decided to return to the ship, but found it impossible to row the boat
through a thick layer of snow and slush which had formed on the surface
of the water.
When they saw that there was little chance of being able to take the
boat back to the ship, and that they must wait until ice formed strong
enough to allow them to walk back, they set to work to make a house,
with the boat for a roof. A hole was dug in a mound, and the boat put on
the top with shingle along the sides, and over the whole was put a layer
of snow 2 feet deep.
On 6th October the ice was strong enough to bear, and a start was made
for the _Fram_. On the way they met a relief party from the ship, and
learned that Braskerud was dead. He had caught a bad cold in Jones
Sound, and had been ill two weeks with a cough and great difficulty in
breathing. It is probable that both he and the doctor had suffered from
pneumonia.
The time for the autumn sledge-journeys had now arrived, and it was
Sverdrup’s intention to make a dépôt at as great a distance to the west
as possible. Various preparations had to be made, but these were
completed in time to let Sverdrup with five men set out on 13th October.
During this trip a double tent was made use of for the first time, and
proved very successful. The inner tent was made of thin cotton lining
material. There was a space of about a foot in height between the two
tents, and a space of 3 or 4 inches between the vertical walls.
Two days were spent in the house at Baadsfiord, from which they again
set out on 18th October. On the 19th they were stopped by open water
beyond Stormkap, and here formed a dépôt in which was also placed the
most of the meat from two bears which had been shot on the way. In
returning they explored a large fiord between Baadsfiord and Stormkap,
where they shot twenty-six polar oxen. The fiord received the
appropriate name of “Moskusfiord.” It was a large task to carry all the
meat to the ship, but after several trips it was completed by the 18th
of November.
In Sverdrup’s opinion, Eskimo dogs should be fed once every day. He
believes that if well fed and protected from cold in suitable kennels
there is no reason why so many should die during the winter. He found
his dogs in full vigour even at the darkest period of the year.
The winter passed in making preparations for the spring journeys. On the
23rd February 1900 four men set out for the westernmost dépôt, where
they were to leave their loads. When they reached it they found it
destroyed by bears, and nearly the whole of the food eaten. Sverdrup now
decided that a man should remain at the dépôt as long as any
sledge-parties were travelling west of it. Bay at once applied for the
post, and was appointed “Commandant of Bjorneborg.” Here he lived alone
for three months.
On the 20th March the great spring expedition started off. On the 17th a
party of four had left for the dépôt. The larger party consisted of six
men, who were ultimately to form three parties of two men each. The dogs
numbered fifty-five. The provisions consisted of bread, butter, sugar,
coffee, chocolate, pea-soup, vegetables, figs, French plums, raisins,
nectarines, egg-powder, groats, potatoes, meat-fat, pemmican, golden
syrup, and fish-flour. The dietary allowed each man per day weighed
2-1/5 lb. The loads amounted to over 670 lb. each.
At Bjorneborg the provisions for the different parties were weighed and
arranged, and then a start was made westward. The first fiord west of
Bjorneborg was named Gaasefiord, from the number of geese found in it.
When crossing the second fiord, three walruses were shot, and after
feeding the dogs well, the remainder was left as a dépôt of dog-food.
This fiord was named “Hvalrosfiord,” or “Walrus Fiord.” Next day they
reached a sound where huge masses of ice were grinding round in a
tearing current. Sverdrup had never seen waters so absolutely impossible
to navigate as he saw here. The difficulties which had to be overcome
before it could be passed were so great that it received the name of
“Helvedesporten,” or “Hell Gate.” On one occasion three men, eighteen
dogs, and three sledges with their loads fell into a hole in the snow 12
feet deep, but by great good fortune no serious damage was done. On
another occasion one of the sledges slipped over a wall of ice into the
sea. The dogs would have been carried with it, but the traces broke. One
of the men, with a rope round his waist, had to be lowered down, and the
load and sledge were ultimately hauled up.
The land at last began to trend to the north-east, and the point was
named “Land’s End.” The whole of the west coast of Ellesmere Land was
subsequently called “King Oscar Land.” Next day a high mountain crag
appeared above the horizon away to the north. It was named “Store
Bjornekap,” or “Great Bear Cape.” Still farther to the north another
cape appeared, and was named “Little Bjornekap,” or “Little Bear Cape.”
Near here a bear was shot, and served as a good feed for the dogs.
On the 31st March the returning party retraced their steps. Sverdrup
with three others proceeded westward. At the parting a bottle of brandy
was produced, but somewhat to their astonishment they found it solid,
and it had to be poked from the bottle with a stick. The temperature was
44° below zero.
The party now met loose snow, and during the first day made only 9
miles; during the second day only 8 miles were covered. In the evening
of the second day they fortunately killed a bear, and decided to camp
for a day or two while the meat lasted, in the hope of the travelling
and weather improving. On this and many other occasions the liver of the
bear was offered to the dogs, but they will touch it only when
excessively hungry. It has been a common belief that the bear’s liver is
poisonous to both men and dogs, but Sverdrup has eaten it many times
without feeling any disagreeable consequences. He never found it in the
least unpalatable when care had been taken to remove the gall-bag as
quickly as possible. The last of the bear-meat was consumed on the 7th
April, and next day a fresh start was made. A high mountain in the west
had been visible for some time, and Sverdrup formed the opinion that it
was not part of Ellesmere Land. He thought that a sound probably passed
north between Ellesmere Land and this new land, and later exploration
proved that this opinion was correct. The high headland received the
name of “Cape Sydvest,” or “Cape South-West.”
Beyond the headland bare ice was met, and travelling became much faster.
On 16th April, while Sverdrup was standing on a pressure-ridge scanning
the country, he suddenly became aware that he was looking at land far
away in the west. A new plan was at once formed: Isachsen with Hassel
were to visit the new land in the west, while Sverdrup and Fosheim were
to continue to the north along what was afterwards named “Axel Heiberg
Land.”
Isachsen decided to leave behind a small dépôt where he was to place a
letter on his return. During the first day Sverdrup and Fosheim covered
18 miles. Next day they had strong wind and drift, and as a consequence
went out of their course and found themselves far inland among some
sand-hills, and all the time they had thought they were driving on the
sea-ice. A little farther to the north they experienced very severe
weather, and were compelled to remain at one camp five days.
On the 2nd May they found themselves in latitude 80° 31½′, and the coast
was trending due north. The tracks of reindeer were seen on several
occasions, but not the animals themselves. There was now no extra food
for the dogs, and it became evident that their strength was failing. The
latitude of 80° 55′ was reached on 5th May, and here they decided to
erect a cairn and then return. It is remarkable that along the whole of
this coast Sverdrup saw nothing approaching to palæocrystic ice.
As food was getting short, the return journey had to be made with all
possible speed. A short record was found from Isachsen, who had returned
to his dépôt on 28th April. Sverdrup and Fosheim reached it on 16th May.
Before they arrived at Land’s End, a bear was shot, and was much needed
for the dogs. As had been prearranged, Baumann left a record in a cairn,
with a description and sketch-map of a passage across the land to Goose
Fiord. Sverdrup attempted this passage, but in foggy weather he missed
the way, and found himself suddenly stopped by a high wall of ice, which
entirely cut off the valley. On investigation, however, a tunnel made by
a river was found to lead into the glacier. Rather than drive all the
way back, it was decided to try the tunnel. From the roof hung gigantic
blocks of ice, and along the walls were grotto after grotto. It was a
fairy scene, but fear-inspiring as well as beautiful. The tunnel led
through to the valley on the other side. The remainder of the journey to
Bjorneborg was made without incident.
Bay had now been a hermit three months, and had many adventures with
bears to relate. Sverdrup took him on to the ship, and left Fosheim at
Bjorneborg in Bay’s place.
Before Sverdrup reached the ship a serious fire had taken place on 27th
May. A spark from the galley chimney is supposed to have set the
winter-awning on fire. The flames spread so rapidly that soon the
rigging was on fire, sixteen paraffin-prepared kayaks which were lying
under the awning were totally destroyed, as well as a score of prepared
polar-ox skins and some bear-skins. Several cases of powder were removed
at the last moment. An iron tank containing 50 gallons of spirit could
not be moved, but although the heat melted the tinning on the outside of
the tank, the spirit did not catch fire.
Schei and Peder arrived from their journey on Whitsunday morning. They
had visited North Kent, where they shot some reindeer; and then went to
Buckingham Island and Graham Island. From there they had visited some
fiords in the south of Axel Heiberg Land.
Isachsen and Hassel returned on board on 19th June. On 16th April they
separated from Sverdrup and Fosheim to explore the land seen in the
west. The weather was foggy, and nothing was seen of the land till the
20th April, when they found themselves near the ice-foot. After getting
a general view of the land, they returned to Axel Heiberg Land, where
they arrived on 28th April, and left a record as arranged. They then
travelled south round Cape South-West, and visited some of the fiords in
the south-east. The summer was spent in shooting, dredging, botanising,
and in making short trips to places not far from the ship.
On the 8th August the _Fram_ was able to steam out of its winter harbour
and make its way westward. At the termination of Jones Sound, Cardigan
Strait was entered and the north end reached; but here fast ice was met.
The _Fram_, however, was able to bore its way some distance to the west,
but was finally stopped by the ice and drifted back. Later, the _Fram_
became beset, and was not liberated till the 15th September. Next day
they were due west of Graham Island. A course was now steered for Jones
Sound, and a winter harbour was found in Goose Fiord. The valleys in
this neighbourhood were well stocked with game, and large numbers of
polar oxen were shot for food during the winter.
On the 18th October, Sverdrup and Olsen left the ship, equipped for ten
days. They were to make an attempt to discover a sound leading north
towards Greely Fiord. The following day, a terrific gale came on, and
while sledging, a gust of wind carried Olsen’s sledge with such violence
against a block of ice that Olsen was shot several yards, and came down
on his shoulder. Olsen thought his arm was dislocated, but Sverdrup
hoped it would soon get right again, and pushed on. The arm, however,
became more and more painful, and they were forced to turn back. The
wind and drift were now in their faces, and Olsen’s sufferings became
very acute. They had passed the previous night at a camp with Baumann
and the mate, who were out shooting, and to this they returned. Olsen
was put into the tent, his clothes taken off, and his arm examined. His
companions felt sure that the shoulder was dislocated, but all their
attempts to put it in again were unavailing. During the night Olsen had
no sleep, and next day the storm was so violent that no move could be
made. On the following day the storm had abated, and Olsen was taken
back to the ship. As soon as Sverdrup arrived on board, some of the
doctor’s books were searched to find out what was to be done with
Olsen’s shoulder. Sverdrup did not dare to give chloroform, but as the
arm was now extremely painful he decided to make Olsen drunk with
brandy. After the patient had taken about half a bottle, an attempt was
made by Fosheim and Simmons to reduce the dislocation, but they failed.
Then Sverdrup and Fosheim tried, and to their great relief the arm
slipped into its socket. Olsen stood the ordeal well. The pain and
excitement had kept him sober, but as soon as the dislocation was put
right he became dead drunk. Next day he was quite himself again.
Winter preparations, such as covering the skylights and making kennels
for the dogs, were now carried out, and various kinds of work in
preparation for spring were started. New sledges, odometers, and
sleeping-bags had to be made; and many articles required repairs. Schei
was set the task of making a new travelling-camera, and did it
successfully.
Wolves made their appearance during the winter, and two were caught in a
trap, and ultimately grew quite tame.
On the 8th April 1901 the long spring journeys started. Sverdrup and
Schei were to investigate whether the new land discovered during the
previous year was separate from Ellesmere Land. Isachsen and Hassel were
to explore the land in the west. The latter party had formed a dépôt at
Cape South-West earlier in the spring, and Sverdrup had also formed a
dépôt. Baumann and Stolz were to carry out a surveying expedition.
Sverdrup first explored several of the fiords which run northward from
Baumann Fiord. From Troldfiord they passed over the land, and reached a
large fiord running east and west. A course was made for the north-west
point, from which a waterway was seen extending northward as far as the
eye could reach. To this was given the name of “Heureka Sound.” In the
north was seen a high, bluish-black, precipitous promontory, which was
called “Blaamander,” or “The Blue Man,” and the course was set on this.
Farther north it was decided that Fosheim and the mate, who were still
with Sverdrup, should follow the east side of the sound, while Sverdrup
and Schei should follow the west side. From this point, far to the
north, rose a mountain crag which appeared like an island. It was later
found that it was not an island, but that large fiords penetrated the
land towards the north and east. From there, Greely Fiord runs
north-east.
Sverdrup and Schei now made for the west coast, which they followed
northward over rough ice and in bad weather. They finally reached a
point which was termed “Smorgrautberget.” From here they received the
impression that a large sea opened out to the north-west, and that Axel
Heiberg Land was separated from Grant Land by a sound which was named
“Fridtjof Nansen Sound.”
On 13th May the return journey was begun. Not far south of the most
northern point reached they found Eskimo ruins. Near Blaamander they
crossed to the east coast. On the journey north, and also on the way
south, they encountered wolves. A pack of twelve attacked a dog-team,
and one of the dogs was severely bitten before the wolves were driven
off. On the return journey several fiords were explored and examined
geologically by Schei, who was always on the look-out for fossils. The
_Fram_ was reached on 18th June.
Baumann and Stolz had returned on 28th May, Isachsen and Hassel on 6th
June, and Fosheim and the mate on 13th June.
The first two had seen a herd of three deer, and had shot a good many
polar oxen, a bear with two cubs, and two wolves. They surveyed a large
tract in the neighbourhood of Baumann Fiord.
After leaving Sverdrup, Fosheim and the mate made for Greely Fiord,
which they followed eastwards in order to ascertain whether a fiord or
sound cut into the land in a southerly direction. It was thought
possible that such a fiord might communicate with Bay Fiord.
One running to the south was found, and followed to its head. Instead of
going back the long way they had come, an attempt was made to cross the
land to Heureka Sound, but after driving nearly 12 miles they found the
way impassable, and had to return. Part of the Bay Fiord was explored on
the way south, and then they shaped their course for the _Fram_.
Isachsen and Hassel reached Cape South-West on their outward journey on
13th April. They found the cache scattered about in all directions, but
little of the food was missing. It was supposed that this had been the
work of polar oxen.
They left Cape South-West on 14th April with loads of about 550 lb. on
each sledge, and reached the new land on the 17th. A sound was
discovered between the new land and North Cornwall, which was already
known. It received the name of “Hendriksen’s Sound.” They passed through
this sound, and reached the south-west point of what was afterwards
named “Amund Ringnes Land,” and followed the coast northward. On the
23rd April, land was seen in the west and south-west, and they decided
to drive west. They arrived next day at Nathorst Peninsula, and this new
land received the name of “Ellef Ringnes Land.” The sound between this
and the land they had left was named after Hassel. Towards the west and
south-west still another land was seen, and was called “King Christian’s
Land.” The sound between the two latter was called “Danish Sound,” and
they passed through this and drove north. At the most northern point of
the land, the trend began to be east and then south. They followed the
coast-line until 20th May, when they saw land in the east, which proved
to be “Amund Ringnes Land,” the northern point of which they reached on
24th May. They then made for Axel Heiberg Land, and reached Cape
South-West on 29th May.
On the new land they had explored they saw reindeer and ptarmigan, and
the tracks of bears, foxes, wolves, and hares. They reached the _Fram_
on 6th June.
The summer work was now commenced, such as dredging and botanising, and
a trip was made to North Devon.
As summer advanced, the party became anxious about the prospects of the
_Fram_ getting free from Gassefiord, as it was intended to return to
Norway that year. An attempt was made to bore the ice on 12th August,
but it ended in failure. On the 26th the _Fram_ advanced a thousand
yards, but on the 27th it could only make three ship’s lengths. By 5th
September the ship had gone about 10 miles through the ice, but some 6
miles of ice was still between it and the open water. They had now to
give up all hope of getting free that year, and had to make preparations
to spend their fourth polar night.
Again the winter was passed in hard work for the coming spring. It was
intended, in case a ship might come into Jones Sound in search of the
_Fram_, to build cairns and leave a record of the expedition on Cone
Island, and on different points in the sound. It was also intended to
send a sledge-expedition to Beechy Island, partly to correct their
chronometers, and partly to look at the dépôts left there half a century
before. Schei and Sverdrup were to go north and map the tracts west of
Greely Fiord.
On 1st April 1902 three parties went off. The patent dog-food was nearly
finished, and they had to carry stockfish instead, which weighed much
heavier. Trusting to being able to obtain bears, Sverdrup did not take
blubber nor meat. No bears were obtained when expected, and the dogs
soon became very weak. It was not until the 10th April that a bear was
seen and shot.
Instead of travelling over the heavy ice towards Smorgrautberget,
Sverdrup kept to the east shore, and then steered straight across Greely
Fiord to Blaafjeld, in the south of Grant Land. They kept to the east
side of a pressure-ridge which stretched straight across the fiord, and
seemed to be the boundary between the fast ice of the previous year on
Greely Fiord and the drift-ice outside.
When near land, the ice became heavy, and it was with great difficulty
that advance could be made. West of Blaafjeld they passed into a fiord
where a large number of hares were seen. It was the pairing season, and
they were scampering about in all directions. Sverdrup supposed they had
lost their heads from love, and he slyly remarks that this is a thing
which may happen to others besides hares. The fiord was named
“Harefiord.”
On 30th April they set off from the headland on the west side of the
fiord. In the evening they camped near the most westerly foreland they
had seen the previous year from Smorgrautberget. Next day they reached
another fiord and entered it for a short distance, but as they were
anxious to ascertain the extent of land to the west they did not venture
to its head. Next day the land trended about due north, and when the
weather cleared land was seen to the north-west, and they recognised
they were in a bay. A straight line was made for the part farthest off,
which was reached on the 6th May. Sverdrup here ascended a height, and
found that he was on an island separated by a narrow sound from the land
in the east. From a point about 3 miles north of the camp, the land
turned to the north-east. North and west of this land, only sea could be
made out. To the south was Axel Heiberg Land. Sverdrup built a cairn to
mark their farthest north, as he had now decided to return. The latitude
was found to be 81° 40′.
In returning, a course was made across Fridtjof Nansen Sound to the
northern extremity of Axel Heiberg Land. In passing south they proved
that Schei Island was really an island, and not a peninsula. Some polar
oxen were shot and the dogs feasted, and the way south was covered at a
good speed. When Bay Fiord was reached, they entered it and explored it
to its head, where they arrived on 29th May.
The _Fram_ was reached on 16th June, after an absence of seventy-seven
days.
Isachsen, Fosheim, and Hassel had left the records as arranged, and had
returned to the ship on 18th April; and on the 23rd April, Baumann,
Fosheim, and Raanes started for Beechy Island, which was reached on 4th
May. It is really not an island, but constitutes the south-west corner
of North Devon. The dépôt was found destroyed. The cutter _Mary_, which
had been left there, was a wreck; whether the work of Eskimo or
seal-catchers could not be said with certainty. They discovered that
Arthur Strait was really a fiord. The return journey was started on the
6th May, and the _Fram_ was reached on the 20th May.
On the 12th April, Isachsen and Bay made a trip to North Devon, and did
not return till 21st May. On 25th May, Isachsen and Simmons set out to
examine a bed of coal discovered by Baumann, and returned on 9th June.
The work of exploration was now over. The usual summer dredging was
begun, and the geologist hunted for fossils. Olsen managed to fall from
a pressure-ridge and dislocate his other shoulder. This time it was
reduced without the assistance of brandy.
On 20th July the _Fram_, with steam up, began to leave her winter
harbour, but it was not until the 6th August that she entered Jones
Sound. On the 10th the _Fram_ was in Baffin’s Bay, heading for the
Devil’s Thumb. Godhavn was reached on the 17th August, and here they
were well received. They left on the 21st, and although there was a
break-down of the engine, Norway was sighted on 18th September.
Stavanger was reached on the 19th, and soon they received a most
enthusiastic reception wherever they went. The owners of the expedition
incurred expenses to the amount of £12,014.
This expedition, although it unfortunately was prevented from carrying
out its original plans, did important work. It not only explored the
whole of Jones Sound, but discovered the existence of large islands
extending toward the north. The fact that no palæocrystic ice was met
with in this region makes it highly probable that land exists still
farther to the north.[2]
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[2] The discovery of Crocker Land and Bradley Land proves that this view
was correct.