Enter the inhabited Districts of Aheer--Hostile Tuaricks--An impudent
Demand--The Merchant Waldee--Prepare for Defence--Threatening
Appearances--Making Friends with Presents--March--Leave
Waldee--Doubtful Visitors--The Camels stolen--The Troop of Assailants
draws nigh--Parley--Their Proposition--We are compelled to a
Compromise--Character of our Enemies--Sinister Rumours again--Proceed
toward Tidek--Wady of Kaltadak--Picturesque Scenery--A Friend from
Seloufeeat--Fresh Mob collects to attack us--Conferences--We are to be
let go scot-free if we become Muslims--We repose--Another Compromise for
Money--Incidents during the Night--Quarrel over the Booty--Enter the
Valley of Seloufeeat--Its Soudan Appearance--Nephew of Sultan
En-Noor--Haj Bashaw of Seloufeeat--We are still uneasy.
As we advanced, on the 21st, along the plain between the granite
rocks--trees and flowers starting up thicker and thicker from the ground
to greet our approach--our guides told us that we were at length
entering the inhabited districts of the kingdom of Aheer, or Asben, as
it is indifferently called. This announcement at once substituted
pleasurable for uneasy sensations. We thought no more at all of pursuing
robbers, and gave ourselves up to the delight which always attends upon
difficulties vanquished. The name of the first district is Taghajeet. We
expected to behold groups of inhabitants coming joyfully to welcome us.
Our imaginations had adorned this country almost with the colours of
home. It was about one that we crossed the unmarked frontier. Still
there were rocks around, their angles softened away by trees; still wild
flowers mingled with the herbage on every side; the heavens were
clearing overhead, and the sun shed down a warm mantle of rays upon the
land; yet there were no signs of life. The silence that reigned, I know
not why, introduced ideas of terror into our minds, and we began to gaze
anxiously to the right and to the left. We remembered that this region,
likewise, was inhabited by Tuaricks, though not of the Haghar tribe.
They might be inhospitable, perhaps hostile. All the caravan, by
degrees, seemed to join in our uneasiness; and when at length, just
before we pitched our tent, the cry arose of "The Tuaricks! the Tuaricks
are coming!" it rose as a cry of warning and alarm. Every one snatched
up his weapons as a small group approached; and all waited with
impatience to learn whether they came as friends or enemies.
Our uneasiness was soon quieted. The newcomers were known to some of our
people, the Tanelkums, and soon scraped acquaintance with us. They paid
a visit to my tent, and I gave them a number of little things, with
which they were very much gratified. There was reason, then, to hope
that our first impressions of security were well-founded, and I began
writing my journal as if we had really arrived in a land of peace.
Suddenly a man, mounted on a maharee, brought us news, at first in a
friendly way, that an immense number of Tuaricks were pursuing us; and
then, throwing off the mask, in their name demanded of our escort that
they should deliver us up to them. This demand the Kailouees, of course,
rejected with indignation; but the circumstance put our people on the
_qui vive_, and we kept up a fire of musketry for two or three hours
during the succeeding night.
At sunset, Waldee, the great merchant of Mourzuk, came to the
encampment. His caravan was stopping half an hour higher up. He gave us
much encouragement, and eloquently recommended us to the care of all our
people, the camel-drivers and escort. Waldee has travelled this route
fourteen years. He is just the man to do it,--a small spare fellow with
an expression of much intelligence, which he really possesses. He is the
most respected of all the merchants on this route.
When he left us, he sent us a present of Aheer dates, which were large
and exceedingly well tasted.
_22d._--We stopped in the valley of Taghajeet all day, waiting for the
Haghars, but they did not make their appearance. In the morning early, I
distributed powder and shot to about forty of our people. Each had half
a cupfull of powder and twelve shots. It was an immense present for
them, and they were all greatly rejoiced at the gift. It is extremely
difficult for people to obtain powder and shot in these countries. We
made a line of barricades with the boat. Amongst our defenders appeared
the three Azgher Tuaricks,[10] who followed us from Tajetterat, and
overtook us above the well of Aisou. We gave them powder and shot, and
they swore they would die for us.
[10] Those people are sometimes called Haghar, and sometimes
Azgher, in the journal. The latter appellation is probably
the correct one in this case.--ED.
In the evening two mounted men came up, and made the same demand of our
escort that the single man had made the night before; namely, that they
should give us Christians up to forty or fifty Tuaricks, collected from
the various districts around. This impudent demand was again rejected.
The opinion of all the caravan now seemed to be, that this was an idle
threat of some dozen bandits, and that the people generally would not
turn out inimical.
Merchant Waldee came again this evening, and gave us increased
encouragement not to be afraid.
The more we saw of this man the better we liked him. He brought for us,
also, the favourable news that the Sheikh of Bornou was on good terms
with his neighbours, the people of Wadaï and Darfour. I shall endeavour
to return _viâ_ these countries to the Mediterranean, if possible. Our
people fired again to-night. In the evening I presented Boro of Aghadez
with a fine burnouse, and his son with a shasheeah and a fateh. I gave a
fateh also to one of his relations, who is travelling with him. He was
highly pleased with the gift, and expressed his pleasure in many
compliments. Of giving gifts there is no end; but this is the time, or
never, when they will be useful.
_23d._--Before we started, another fellow came riding up from the
rumoured troop of bandits, and demanded of our escort that they should
give us into their hands. Boro remembered his present, and expressed his
gratitude by resenting this insolence with a perfect shower of abuse.
We advanced nine hours this day, looking behind us as we moved. Our
course lay through a rocky country, and two or three fine valleys,
distinguished chiefly by the immense size of the tholukh-trees. In the
afternoon a large valley opened, amidst a mountainous region; after
traversing which, we pitched tent in a small open space surrounded with
hills, with a snug valley of hasheesh near at hand.
When we started in the morning, we bade the merchant Waldee adieu.
During the night he had received a courier from Mourzuk, and letters
from the Consul and Mustapha Bey to recommend us to him. Waldee said he
would write us some letters, and send them after us. He leaves his
caravan at Taghajeet, and mounts his maharee for Mourzuk, where he
expects to arrive in the course of fourteen days.
I wrote by him to Government, and to my wife.
In the evening, when it was nearly dusk, five mounted men made their
appearance, two of them leading six empty camels. We did not like the
looks of them, but they gave a tolerable account of themselves.
I treated them to supper--in fact, I am obliged to feed all strangers,
as well as a good number of the caravan. Of feeding these people, as of
giving them presents, verily there is no end. To travel comfortably in
the desert, it would be necessary to possess Fortunatus' purse or
Aladdin's lamp.
During the night these strange fellows disappeared, which circumstance
naturally aroused our suspicions. About two in the morning the
Kailouees, wishing to start early, began to bustle about in the dark, in
order to collect their camels. They could not find any of them. Great
was the consternation. The Tanelkums instantly ran to their drove, of
which three only were missing, and ours also were found to be safe. They
have driven the camels off, in order to prevent our progress, and give
time to the enemy to come up.
_24th._--We naturally passed the remainder of the night in the greatest
anxiety of mind, feeling sure that a crisis was now approaching. At
about six in the morning, four men, mounted on maharees, came riding
towards us, and drawing near, boldly summoned our escort to deliver up
the Christians, with all their baggage and camels. The insolence of this
small body assured us that they had some force at hand; but we boldly
told them to go about their business, as we were resolved to defend
ourselves to the last.
Whilst we were parleying with them, a troop of about forty men, mounted
on their fleet maharees, and equipped for war with spears, shields, and
swords, came trotting rapidly over the hills, hallooing with wild cries,
and challenging our caravan to battle. When the first few moments of
surprise had subsided, two-thirds of our caravan, armed with matchlocks,
pistols, and swords, advanced in a body, and shouted out that they
accepted the challenge. This bold movement staggered the assailants, who
forthwith began to waver and retire. They had evidently expected to
overawe us by boasting. Our people, satisfied with the effect of their
manoeuvre, retired slowly towards the encampment. Presently a small body
of the enemy advanced as a deputation, demanding to parley, and
declaring that they did not come to fight against people of their own
faith. The remainder pretended to march and countermarch along the hills
on either hand, as if to hem us in completely, but kept at a respectful
distance. They saw that we were too strong for them, but called out that
they would go and fetch more people.
The conferences were now fairly opened, and we found that the hostile
troop was composed of a collection of all the Sheikhs of the
neighbouring districts, with their followers, and several regular
bandits, countenanced by a Shereef Marabout. Our people understood at
once that the affair was far more serious than they had anticipated, and
began to be downhearted. They knew that they could not proceed without
their camels, and from their expressions and looks I could foresee that
the matter at last would have to be ended by a compromise.
The enemy made various propositions, more or less agreeable to our ears.
The first was simply that we, as infidels, should be given up to be put
to death--an idea which, luckily, nobody seemed to consider proper or
feasible. They then insisted that we should pass on no further, but
should return by the way we had come--also declined. Next, they demanded
that we should become Muslims--a proposition which our people refused
even to mention to us. Finally, they coolly asked for half our goods and
baggage,--no doubt their ultimate object.
When they found that we would not agree to any of their proposals, but
were determined rather to resist by the strong hand, a compromise was
agreed upon. We paid them in goods to the value of three hundred and
fifty reals, or about fifty pounds sterling, in order to get back our
camels and be allowed to proceed. Even then, however, our caravan lost
nine animals; so that the Kailouees suffer more even than we do. We were
obliged to put up with all this, and were glad enough when the Shereef
Marabout at length professed himself satisfied, and volunteered his
protection for the future.
A wild and lawless set are these borderers of Aheer. The gathering was
evidently a spontaneous one of all the blackguards of the country. Even
the marabout complains, that during the expedition he has lost his
burnouse, carpet, and fez, whilst he was saying his prayers, pious man!
and beseeching for strength to overcome the infidels! He was on his
knees, when a fellow of his troop came softly up behind, appropriated
his things, mounted his camel, and fled away--"whist," he says, like the
wind, and was soon out of sight, and appeared no more. By the way, the
three Azghers were frightened, or corrupted, in the morning, and went
over to the enemy. They change sides with fortune; and when some shots
were fired by the enemy, by way of bravado and to expedite the
conferences, one of their muskets was brought into play, and of course
my powder! I am happy to reflect, however, that they got none of the
booty this time, and have "'filed their minds" for nought.
As soon as we got back our camels we proposed to, move on, our people
evincing the greatest anxiety to get away from a place where such
disagreeable things had happened. We accordingly marched about two
hours, the marabouts accompanying us, and then pitched tent for the
night. Sinister rumours, however, were still about, like a flight of
ill-omened birds, and it was said that another troop of people were
collecting further on to intercept our passage to Soudan. During this
halt, grave conferences were held between the Kailouee merchant,
En-Noor, and the marabout, on the subject of these fresh reports. It
turned out that there were several people in the neighbourhood who were
dissatisfied that they had not shared in the booty, and might prove
troublesome. About thirty reals' worth of things were accordingly
selected for them.
_25th._--We started before daylight, and advanced about nine hours,
pitching tent in the afternoon at three. Our people are in better
spirits, anticipating the termination of the journey. However, we are
not yet free from cause of alarm. The Tanelkums, our companions, begin
to show symptoms of discontent, and in the evening I was obliged to make
presents to the whole of them. They have certainly worked hard for us,
and suffered much anxiety on our account.
Our course this day lay towards the mountains of Tidek, which form our
southern horizon. The country was a perfect desert. There was nothing
now to tell that we were near Soudan, except perhaps a few tholukh-trees
of gigantic stature. We did not halt upon the track, but, turning aside,
sought a fine valley, where there was abundance of hasheesh. Our camels
greedily devour the luxuriant _bou rekaba_.
_26th._--As usual, the caravan was got into marching order before
daybreak, and returning to the track we proceeded rapidly. Dawn revealed
to us that we were still watched by the hostile population. Three men,
mounted on maharees, trotted along the hills, evidently in observation.
We soon got out of the desert country, and entered the fine wady of
Kaltadak, rich with tropical vegetation. The huge tholukhs were covered
with a multitude of parasitical plants, that hung in festoons or trailed
down towards the earth. This valley runs winding round about the group
of Tidek mountains, which have long been in view. They say that it
abounds in lions, and as we advanced we looked down the long glades that
opened on either hand, expecting to see some monarch of the forest
stopping to gaze at us as we passed. We discovered, however, only three
black ostriches moving slowly along in the distance,--the first I have
seen wild in Africa. They appeared like dark moving lumps, the heads and
necks not being discernible to the naked eye. Our people did not attempt
to chase them; and the gazelles that glanced near at hand were likewise
suffered to depart in peace. At noon we reached the well of Anamghur,
where we drank some good water. It was scooped out of the sandy, rocky
bed of the wady. A group of five asses had been driven down to it to
drink.
As we advanced, about noon, a small group appeared ahead. A person of
consequence from Seloufeeat, known to our escort, was coming to meet us.
He advanced cordially, and told us that he had determined to be our
protection. We were sorry that any such aid was necessary; but it
appeared from his report that there were more people collecting to
attack the Christians, and get a share of their spoils. In the evening
we encamped in an open space clear of the trees, where we could see all
around us, and use our arms if necessary. Scarcely were we established
when a troop of fifty men came near in a threatening manner, but did not
attack us. After dark, they increased to about a hundred. They consisted
of the sheikhs of the districts, with their followers and lawless men
scraped together from various quarters. Meanwhile our escort, who were
anxious for their own safety as well as ours, had sent on to the City of
Marabouts, Tintaghoda, and had prevailed on several of these holy men to
protect them and us. The night was spent in conference instead of in
repose. The hostile Sheikhs told our marabouts that they did not come to
harm us, but to oblige us to become Muslims, for no infidel had ever, or
ever should, pass through their country. This proposition was at once,
as a matter of business and profession, approved of by our protecting
marabouts. What priest ever shrunk from the prospect of a conversion?
Matters having come to this point, our escort, camel-drivers and
servants, could not but communicate to us the demand made--namely, that
we should change our religion or return by the way we had come. This
time, likewise, even our own servants prayed that we would accept the
proposition, or seem to accept it, if only for a few days, to deliver
ourselves from present danger. My colleagues, and particularly Dr.
Barth, indignantly and passionately resisted. For my part, I looked upon
the affair with a little more calm, the same thing having occurred to me
on a former occasion in these deserts. I told our people that we would
pay the tribute imposed by the Mahometan law on infidels, or for our
passage through the country, or else that we would take our chance and
return. Upon this our servants exclaimed, with tears in their eyes, "To
return would be certain death!" There was now nothing left for me to do
but to say, with my colleagues, that we would wait patiently for death,
but that to change our religion was impossible.
Although, of course, the threats that were made against us could not but
produce considerable uneasiness, I always felt pretty sure that the
Sheikhs did not exactly mean what they said, and would come at last, as
had the others, to a money compromise. Yet, during the absence of our
people, who took the message that we were ready to die for the honour of
our country and religion, I passed, as did my friends the Germans, a
most distressing half hour. Every sound we heard seemed to be that of
people approaching to attack us. At length we heard voices, through the
darkness. Our ambassadors were coming back with the message: "It is
arranged, O Consuls, that you shall pay a certain sum of money!"
Children of the desert, you are not the only ones who make a demand for
conscience sake, and then compound for cash!
We only afterwards learned how this negotiation was carried on with the
enemy. Some dramatic scenes were reported to us by our servants as
occurring between our escort and the assailing troop, mixed with
marabouts. En-Noor, on returning from us after we had declared that we
would die for our religion, drew his sword and cast it on the ground
before the people, calling out to the other Kailouees, "Come now, let us
all die with the Christians!" On the other hand, the fiercest of the
enemy every now and then got up and made as if they would rush at once
and spear us in our tents. Then there was reasoning of every
description, and tremendous quotations from the Koran. The most humane
proposed that we should have ten days' grace to reflect on our situation
before we were put to death. Our servants, who behaved well all through
this trying business, made a reasonable proposition, that we should be
taken to Tintalous to the great Sultan En-Noor, who should decide upon
our case. But this did not suit the purpose of these pious propagandists
of the Muslim faith, who swore that the book ordered them to slaughter
the unbelievers, and at length were graciously pleased to accept the sum
of thirty-five pounds sterling in goods!
_27th._--In the morning we wished to start at once, and get away from
this scene of our second disaster; but we had to stay to select the
goods which were to pay for our lives, liberties, and consciences.
However, we at length got off; and whilst the bandits were swearing, and
griping one another by the throat, and fighting over the booty, we
pushed hastily on towards Seloufeeat, which, according to our Tanelkums,
is really the first country of Asben. As we entered the valley our
people kept up a running fire, to alarm any one who might feel disposed
to attack us. We had been so much accustomed to inhospitality and
robbers of late, that we confidently expected further difficulties as
soon as we met with the inhabitants.
After a march of four hours we arrived, and encamped in the
neighbourhood of Seloufeeat. The valley has quite a Soudan appearance,
but solely on account of the presence of the doom palm. There are,
however, a considerable number of other trees, particularly the souak,
the branches of which are eaten voraciously by our camels. It has
beautiful green foliage, and is very bushy and spreading. Wheat, and
ghaseb, and other grain are grown in the valley, where there is
abundance of good water. The wells are like those of Ghadamez,--that is
to say, an upright beam with a long cross-pole, having a stone at one
end and a rope and bucket at the other, serves to bring up the water.
We found here a caravan about to proceed direct to Mourzuk, and I seized
the opportunity to write by it to Government and to my wife. During the
night some mischievous people again drove away all the camels of the
Kailouees, as well as ours. This disturbed us much, and we anticipated
fresh extortion and plunder; but we were assured that we had now nothing
serious to apprehend.
_28th._--We stopped here all day to get back our camels. The caravan was
delayed, and I wrote a detailed account of our two affairs to
Government.
A nephew of Sultan En-Noor came to Seloufeeat this morning, having
heard, probably, of our arrival. By him I wrote to En-Noor, from whom we
expect an answer to-morrow.
In the evening eleven camels of the Kailouees were still missing, and
six of ours. Nevertheless, our people determined to go on next morning.
I felt much discouraged this evening. A succession of bad affairs was
constantly contradicting the assurances of our escort and their friends;
the people of Seloufeeat were also excessively troublesome: there seemed
no one in the place having authority. At last, near sunset, came forward
a certain Haj Bashaw, declaring that we had all been too badly treated,
and he would obtain for us redress. This man has considerable wealth,
and is in constant communication with Mourzuk, where he sends numbers of
slaves, and possesses property. He probably began to quake for his
property in Mourzuk, fearing the Turks would make reprisals. I went to
bed with the assurance of this man that he would get back for us our
camels; nevertheless, having been deceived a thousand times, I had my
misgivings. Yet I did not forget we had twice been delivered out of the
hands of bandits by our escort and friends, so that we ought not to
despair of seeing a brighter and a quieter time. After midnight I had a
few hours of refreshing sleep.