Leave Seloufeeat--"City of Marabouts"--Fair Promises--People
of Aheer--Aspect of the Country--Extraordinary Reports--A
Flying Saint--Prophecies--A Present--Expense of our forced
Passage--Hopes--Fears--The Marabouts--Geology--The coming down of the
Wady--Inundation--Restoration of our Camels--Maharees from
En-Noor--El-Fadeea--Arab Tuaricks--Maghata--Picturesque Wady--Rainy
Season--Another Flood--Dangerous Position--Kailouees and Blacks--The
Escort arrives--The Marabout Population--Reported Brigands--The Walad
Suleiman--Pleasant Valley--Escort leave us--Difficulty of satisfying
them--Robbery--Proceed to Tintalous--Encampment--The Sultan--A
Speech--We wait in vain for Supper--Want of Food.
_Aug. 29th._--I rose early, and heard the good news that the camels
missing in the first affair were found and brought to our people. This
filled everybody with good spirits, and we got off as soon as we could
from Seloufeeat. We were obliged to leave the boat in the charge of a
faithful inhabitant, to fetch as soon, as we arrived at Tintaghoda.
Before starting, Haj Bashaw made Yusuf write a letter in his name to
Mourzuk, to the Bashaw Mustapha and Makersee, declaring that he had not
had any news of us or our coming, but that now we should be conducted
safely up to the country of En-Noor. This is the only man who seems to
have any authority in Seloufeeat: the marabouts could do little before
he came forward; the people live in the wildest state of lawless
independence.
In the morning before starting, the Sfaxee and Yusuf came up to me and
said, "All up to now was lies; but henceforth all is truth. You have
nothing more to fear--there is nothing now but good." This speech I most
devoutly devoured, and things certainly wore a brighter aspect this
morning. But we now anxiously wait news from En-Noor.
We moved up the valley of Seloufeeat, our spirits buoyant and mounting
high, whilst the air of the morning was soft and fresh, not unlike that
of Italy. After two hours we arrived at the City of Marabouts, or
Tintaghoda.
There is considerable variety in the physiognomy of the people of Aheer,
whom we have already seen; but in general, they have agreeable
countenances: and as to stature, many of them are very tall, though
apparently not very robust. Some are of light olive complexion, with
straight noses and thin lips; but others, indeed the great number,
approximate to the negro in feature.
This portion of Aheer is still poor in provisions. Indeed, all these
districts are strictly Saharan. There are fine fertile valleys, but
between them are rocks and complete deserts; the trees, which somewhat
change from the aspect of those in Central Sahara, are the immensely
large tholukhs, some of them covered with parasitical plants; the doom
palm, and the souak tree. I have also seen the ethel hereabouts.
The houses of Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda have, however, a true African
aspect, being thatched with leaves of the doom palm. Some of them are
sheds, with a roof supported by four poles, under which the people
repose in the shade by day and by night shelter themselves from noxious
vapours.
The most extraordinary reports are beginning to circulate about us and
our affairs. It has been confidently spread about that the three Azgher,
who followed us from Tajetterat, had a letter in their possession, which
they were to show to all the population beyond the Ghât territory,
written by Khanouhen, to the effect that we were to be murdered, as soon
as we got beyond that territory, by whomsoever the attempt might be
made.
Another report is, that the sixty maharees, said to have been in pursuit
of us at Taghajeet, did actually arrive at that district, but finding us
too far ahead for them they returned; they came by the way of Tuat.
These Haghars were to have fallen upon us during the night, and murdered
all of us, even the Tanelkums, except Oud-el-Khair and two others. There
is a route which leads direct to Tuat from Taghajeet, and also another
from Aisou to Tuat.
With regard to the marabouts, they seem quiet enough. It would appear
there is an enormous fellow amongst them, who every year, during one
night, flies to Mekka and back again.
They report to the people that, insomuch as we are recommended by the
great Sultan of the Turks, Abd-el-Majeed, by the Pasha of Tripoli, and
all his marabouts, by the Pasha and great marabouts of Mourzuk, by all
the big and mighty people of Ghât and the Haghars, but more especially
as they have found our names written in their books, and that we were to
come to them and visit their holy city,--with a thousand other such
reasons--they (the marabouts) have determined to receive us with open
arms. The marabouts of all countries pretend to find events written
plainly, or shadowed forth, in their books.
After giving away about a hundred and fifty pounds sterling, the
greatest part, however, forced gifts, we have received our first present
in Aheer, viz. two melons, some onions, and a small quantity of wheat
this evening, from Haj Bashaw, the influential man of Seloufeeat,
already mentioned. There is still a drawback in this, for the giver knew
the father of Yusuf, and was anxious to show favour to his son, my
interpreter. But the fact must be recorded as something wonderful.
The people of our caravan, escort and camel-drivers, offer us nothing;
to them it would appear a sin to give anything to a Christian. Such are
the people we travel with. In regard to the matter of presents, God give
me patience with them.
_30th._--There is no answer from En-Noor, nor are our camels
forthcoming; which things naturally cause us anxiety. But let us hope
for the best, and pray to God to deliver us from all our misfortunes.
We wait here to-day to see the results, and proceed to-morrow. This
morning I made the account of the forced passage of the expedition from
Taghajeet to this place (Marabouteen). It amounts to the enormous sum of
nine hundred mahboubs--more than one hundred and fifty pounds sterling!
I do not know what Government will think of it; but the expenditure
incurred was certainly to save our lives.
I gave this morning more presents to our servants, and lectured them on
their duties. All things considered, they have behaved very well. When
they saw the great quantity of goods given away or forced from us by
strangers, they naturally began to think what there would be left for
them, who always remained with us, and worked for us.
The being chief of an expedition of this kind is certainly no sinecure;
but I am sure that no one who has not occupied a similar post can
conceive the anxieties and disquietudes under which I have laboured
during all these difficult days. Almost ever since our departure from
Ghât we have been in fear, either for our lives or our property. Danger
has ever hung hovering over us, sometimes averted, sometimes seeming to
be turned into smoke; but within this week the strokes of ill fortune
have fallen upon us with increasing fury. We try to persuade ourselves
that there is now nothing more to fear, and every one joins in nursing
what may be a delusion.
The marabouts indulge the vain hope that, through the influence of the
great En-Noor of Tintalous, we may yet become Muslims. It would appear
that the whole of the inhabitants of the village of Tintaghoda are
marabouts, and so the race of saints is propagated from generation to
generation. Generally, the children of the marabouts are good-looking.
It is said that some of the mischievous boys were the parties who drove
off our cattle.
In spite of all the sanctity of this place, and its reputation that it
is free from theft, En-Noor of our escort told us yesterday evening to
watch well during the night, that our things might not be stolen.
We Christians cannot trust our things here. The Sfaxee, however, leaves
his goods in the place, and will go with us to-morrow. Tintaghoda may be
a safe dépôt for Muslims, not for Christians.
I have omitted to notice in its proper place, but may record here, that
one of the free black females was lost for a couple of days in the
desert, and recovered after the disaster.
Whatever we have yet seen of Aheer in a geological point of view, shows
that it is essentially a region of granite rocks, between which are a
series of fine valleys, running one into another. The granite is in
great varieties; there are four specimens of granite marble; some pieces
of pure limestone marble have also been collected; the granite rocks are
blackened by the sun and atmosphere, and wear the appearance of basalt.
About four o'clock this afternoon there was a cry in the encampment--not
that the Haghar were coming--not that another troop of robbers and wild
people were advancing upon us to attack us; but the cry was, "_El wady
jaee!_" "The wady is coming!" Going out to look, I saw a broad white
sheet of foam advancing from the south between the trees of the valley.
In ten minutes after a river of water came pouring along, and spread all
around us, converting the place of our encampment into an isle of the
valley. The current in its deepest part was very powerful, capable of
carrying away sheep and cattle, and of uprooting trees. This is one of
the most interesting phenomena I have witnessed during my present tour
in Africa. The scene, indeed, was perfectly African. Rain had been
observed falling in the south; black clouds and darkness covered that
zone of the heavens; and an hour afterwards came pouring down this river
of water into the dry, parched-up valley. This incident of Wady
Tintaghoda explains the Scriptural phrase, "rivers of waters;" for here
indeed was a river of water, appearing in an instant, and almost without
notice. It is not, however, necessary to come to the frontiers of Soudan
to witness phenomena, of this nature. Even in Morocco similar sudden
floodings occur every rainy season.
We had been some time employed in watching this singular scene, when
another cry was heard. This was the announcement that our camels were
coming,--certainly a piece of good news that we had been anxiously
expecting; but it had often been given before, and after the first
excitement we began to feel the sickness of disappointment. However,
four of our camels were in reality brought in; there yet remain out two
of ours and three belonging to the Kailouees. However, our spirits begin
now really to revive. We learn that this act of restitution is
attributable to the marabouts.
I went to bed on receiving this news; but I had not rested long before
Dr. Barth called out, "Have you heard what has happened? Twenty-eight
maharees are arrived from En-Noor." On further inquiries, I learned that
the Sultan had sent us an escort of twenty men mounted, and eight on
foot; but rain having fallen and still continuing to fall, and the fact
of our being surrounded by water, prevented the approach of these troops
to the encampment. The intelligence of their arrival was brought by a
man well known to the Tanelkums. In the afternoon we had heard that
En-Noor had received a confused account of our two encounters with the
armed bands, and that we had been destroyed by them, or nearly so, but
had not yet received our courier. This circumstance tranquillised us. We
had been anxiously expecting news from En-Noor. The people always speak
of maharees, and not of mounted men; so that twenty maharees are twenty
men mounted on maharees. It rained this evening and during the night:
everything was damp around us. We now begin to feel, indeed, that we are
in a humid atmosphere.
_31st._--I rose early, but it rained hard, and everybody kept within
tent. I am much delighted with my double Bornou tent, for, although it
is nothing but a species of gauze cotton-work, it still keeps out the
rain.
We are collecting the names and qualities of the chief among our
assailants, as we shall have to make a formal complaint against them,
not only in order to obtain restitution for our goods, but for the sake
of any future travellers. The people who first attacked us are called
El-Fadeea, or El-Fadayan, and are styled by Yusuf _Arab_ Tuaricks, or
Tuaricks living in tents. This tribe was joined by bandits and a few
adventurers from all the surrounding districts.
The people of the second attack are called Aghazar: these are also Arab
Tuaricks, or people living in tents. They were joined by people from
Seloufeeat, Tintaghoda, and all the neighbouring places.
The people appear to have gathered all confusedly together, headed by
their chiefs and countenanced by the marabouts, to destroy the Infidels
who were come to pollute their country; but, undoubtedly, the major part
were excited against us by the hope of plunder.
All the inhabitants of Ghanet[11] are Maghata, or descendants of the
children of the Tuaricks, Haghar and Azgher, which were born to them by
their slaves. It is these Maghata who were said to be in pursuit of us
under Sidi Jafel. There are many of the same people in the open desert,
for the most part bandits, or at least inclined to that way of life.
They levy contributions on the caravans, and on the settled people when
they can venture.
[11] This is the oasis of Janet, mentioned previously.--ED.
The valley, which embraces Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, is said to extend,
by a series of connexions, as far as Zinder,--probably a fanciful
connexion of the people. It is a most picturesque wady, lined with black
granite rocks, some rising high into castellated peaks on the
south-east, with a lower range of hills on the north-west. It is not
above half a mile wide in its mean breadth; herbage does not abound over
all its bed, but trees cover its surface. The water is mostly rain
water; here and there, however, springs are found. All the water is
good, and copious in supply.
If we may judge from what we have seen of the marks of late rains in
these districts, and the freshness of the herbage, the rainy season is
just beginning in Aheer. There is not yet very abundant herbage, but it
will soon greatly increase.
The rain continues to pour in torrents, the boundary mountains on either
hand are scarcely visible, and a watery vapour prevents us from tracing
the course of the valley. We have hitherto had to struggle against
mental anxieties, against fatigues, heat, drought, and thirst: we have
now to contend with rain and with floods. Everything is becoming awfully
damp, and everybody looks awfully dismal. I can see, from the lugubrious
countenances of the Kailouees and the blacks, that the rainy season is
their real winter. They go shivering about, and seem as if they were
half drowned. Our Bornou gauze-cotton tent still bears up well, however,
and keeps out the rain.
I was engaged in admiring the tent, and in reflecting on the changed
region into which we had entered--a region of luxuriant vegetation and
watery atmosphere--when there was again a wild holloa of "The floods are
pouring down upon us! The wady is coming!" Our people, however,
contented themselves at first with shouting, and made no preparations
for the advancing flood; but in a short time they found it necessary to
bestir themselves, and began to make dams and dykes, with the aid of
sticks and hatches. These expedients proved of no avail. The waters
swelled wildly up, higher and higher, and sheets of foaming waves came
whirling in amongst us. I called out to Yusuf to select some high ground
at once, to which our goods might be conveyed. He calmly replied, "The
people still stay where they are;" implying that there was no danger,
that the inundation would subside like the former one, and that we
should escape with a wetting. Not so, however. All the low parts of the
valley were already covered with a turbid stream, that broke fiercely
round the trunks of the trees; and at length the mounting tide
threatened our tent. Yusuf then made a little child's dam around, as if
in sport; but in a few minutes this was swept away, and we found
ourselves standing in the water.
It was now absolutely necessary to move; and our people, who seemed
until then to have been paralysed by the humidity, as we in northern
climates sometimes are with cold, began to bestir themselves, and to
transfer our tents and baggage to a piece of ground which rose
considerably above the level of the valley, and was surrounded with
rushing waters. The remainder of the caravan imitated us, and we soon
saw them all occupying the summits of little islands, whither the
camels, at least such as did not instinctively take refuge there
themselves, were also driven. This was a good opportunity of seeing a
specimen of African character. The Kailouees made no preparation for the
deluge until the last moment, and then seemed absolutely to make the
worst possible. They rolled their bales of dry goods in the water as if
they were so many logs of wood, although by lifting them up a little all
might have at first been saved quite dry. Meanwhile the black servants
were dancing, singing, and rolling about in the waters, as if some
sudden blessing had overtaken them.[12]
[12] The black people of Central Africa, whose character and
opinions we do not yet understand, seem to take peculiar
delight in those very natural phenomena which civilised
nations regard as disastrous. Among other instances, I have
seen an old negress, usually gloomy and taciturn, quite
intoxicated by an earthquake. Whilst others were thinking of
their safety, she ran about the courtyard on her hands and
feet, rolling over, laughing and whooping, as if she were a
devil and this was news from the infernal regions.--ED.
The water still continued to rise, and to foam over the margin of the
island. We were compelled by degrees to retreat towards the centre, and
as there was no sign of abatement, and as the whole valley had become
one rushing river, covered with floating trees,--some shooting singly
along, others entangled into rafts or floating islands, I began to
entertain serious misgivings. Never was there a more perfect picture of
a deluge! It was the Biblical deluge in miniature: and I calculated with
intense interest how many inches additional rise would utterly destroy
our goods, and how many inches more peril our lives. The most gloomy
forebodings troubled me. I had always looked forward to Aheer as a haven
of safety, and instead thereof it had proved to be a place of
persecution. When men had ceased to fight against us, nature began. I
thought I could hear the fanatical people of Tintaghoda say one to the
other, "Ah! they saved their lives by money, but now God comes in to
punish and destroy them." Yet whilst I stood apart and tortured myself
in this wise, our people, children of the day, who take no thought for
the morrow, satisfied that the waves had not yet reached them, were full
of merriment and laughter, and seemed to mock the flood, that still rose
and rose, bending the largest trees, sweeping away the brushwood, and
roaring angrily around the margin of the islands. Perhaps they knew that
their lives, at least, were safe; whilst I reflected that, if even we
could swim to shore, leaving our property to the wild mercies of the
waves, we should land in an enemy's country, without the means of
satisfying the cupidity of the first bandit who chose to attack us, and
would most probably soon be sacrificed.
I was anxiously watching the progress of the inundation when at last it
seemed to be checked, and no longer to rise. God had not, then,
abandoned us, and we were not driven from the fire to the waters to
perish! The flood remained stationary for awhile, still rolling along
the valley, which it seemed to fill from side to side; then we noticed a
slight decrease, then a progressive and rapid one: hope buoyed up our
spirits, and we thanked the Almighty for our deliverance. As I have
mentioned, I have seen floods before, but never one on so grand a scale
as this, which was truly African in its magnitude and character.
As if Providence were now resolved to visit us with marked favour, just
at the moment when the waters began visibly to decrease, and patches of
land to appear here and there, the escort sent by Sultan En-Noor came
riding over the neighbouring heights. Our people discovered them, and
shouted, "See, the Kailouees! the Kailouees!"
The waters rose above the general surface of the wady full two feet and
a-half. Had this deluge come during the night we should scarcely have
saved ourselves; or, at any rate, the greater part of our property and
our camels must have perished. The power of such a body of water rushing
along is tremendous. A great number of houses of Tintaghoda were carried
away, and the inhabitants declared that they never remembered such an
occurrence to have happened before. I can well believe them, otherwise
the site of the town would have been changed for higher ground. Trees
numberless were uprooted, and brought down by the mighty current, which
must have considerably altered the appearance of the valley. We could
already see that the earth was ploughed up in all directions; and when
the inundation was at its height, serious fears were entertained lest
the island on which we stood should itself be swept from under our feet.
When the waters had subsided a little the nephew of En-Noor came to us
from the town, to see our situation. He then went to meet the Maharees
which had arrived from his uncle, and soon sent to tell us that all was
right, that this party came purposely to afford us protection, and that
it included the sons of En-Noor, their nephews, and a son-in-law,
besides many household servants; in all, thirty-one men mounted, and the
rest on foot.
In the evening we moved out of the valley, and encamped on the high
ground. The rain continued to incommode us. The things of the Germans
were all wet--I managed to keep mine dry; but our sense of security now
kept up our spirits.
Towards the evening the whole male population came out of the town to
see the ravages of water, and learn how we fared. There might be fifty
persons, men and boys. These marabouts pretend that when they first saw
the escort of En-Noor, they thought it was an enemy come to attack us
whilst isolated by the floods of rain.
They said there were some hundred bandits and other lawless men
collected behind the rocks, waiting for us, but on seeing the escort of
En-Noor they had retired by small numbers. Certainly there may have been
some twenty or thirty such people, and, undoubtedly, the escort of
En-Noor produced a salutary effect upon these brigands, as well as upon
the holy maraboutee population who drove away our camels.
When at the Marabouteen, as Tintaghoda is called, a very fine
gold-embroidered waistcoat was brought by the escort of En-Noor to me,
to ask what it was worth. I guessed about two hundred reals; Yusuf
thought the same. It appeared that this waistcoat was the property of
Abd-el-Galeel, and was taken as plunder during the last expedition of
the Kailouees against the Walad Suleiman. There are several slaves also
at Seloufeeat, who once were the property of these Arabs. According to
the report of the Kailouees they have destroyed all the Walad
Suleiman,--killed them every one. They went against the Arabs ten
thousand strong; some of the enemy, however, are said to have died of
hunger. It is, besides, reported that the people of Bornou assisted in
their destruction. Abd-el-Galeel himself is rumoured to have been
killed. Evidently many of the unfortunate Arabs have been surprised, and
many of them slaughtered; but I cannot believe in their total
annihilation. We shall be better informed at Zinder and Kuka.
_Sept. 1st._--We started late, on account of our things being all wet.
The morning was as favourable for drying as the day before had been for
wetting, there being a high wind with sunshine. We journeyed on five
hours and a-half, and encamped near some pools of water. A cascade
during rainy weather shoots down from the highest tops of the rocky
mountains.
Before us was a pleasant valley, wherein were the ruins of huts that had
been carried away by the waters. Ferajee invited me to visit the Water
with him, and I went. In this neighbourhood the rocky heights assumed
their boldest forms, many of the peaks being considerably elevated; all
granite.
Some people were heard in the evening, when dark, and we fired several
shots. The Tanelkums had seen men skulking behind the rocks during our
short march.
_2d._--We rose early, and made a march of eight hours and a-half:
country as yesterday. Our Kailouee escort left us at noon, to go to
Aghooou and Janazaret, or Zanairas, their homes. I must write the
characters of En-Noor, Deedee, and Ferajee hereafter. They are pretty
well fixed in my memory. These individuals are amongst the number of
persons who "turned out," to use the vulgar expression, better than we
anticipated from their first transactions with us.
On encamping, Mohammed, the son-in-law of En-Noor, came to my tent, and
told Yusuf that we must now pay for our escort, as we were within a few
hours of Tintalous, and did not require it more; also that the people
wished to go to their homes, for they had been collected from various
parts of the country. I must observe, that, considering the time that
elapsed between the departure of the courier from Seloufeeat and the
arrival of the escort at Tintaghoda, these people had been collected
very quickly, which showed En-Noor to be a man of business and
authority.
I expected we should have some trouble to satisfy thirty-one people.
Yusuf, aided by the Tanelkums, sorted out about eighty-seven reals'
worth of goods. This was offered as sufficient, but did not content even
the chief persons, much less the smaller gentlemen. We then added
another burnouse, and other things, making up about one hundred reals.
This the chiefs accepted; but not so the little men. They stormed and
swore; and some of them even ran to seize our bales of goods. However,
whatever we had given we should have had the same results, and we must
expect similar quarrels all through Africa until our journey's end. I
observed, at last, that many took their portions and retired, and I felt
confident that all would finish without violence being done us.
When I had been in bed two hours, half-sleeping and half-waking, I
turned round my head, and saw my tent full of people. I had not heard
them come in. They were the Germans, Yusuf, Mohammed Tunisee, and other
people. They were all busy examining the scattered contents of a bale of
goods. I asked what was the matter, and was told briefly that some of
the _canaille_ of our escort had carried away a bale of Dr. Barth's
goods, but that the chief had made them restore the greater part of the
spoil. In the first moments I could not help laughing. It was certainly
comical to be robbed by one's own escort. We had now thirty-one
chaouches for two whom we obtained in Tripoli. On this I went to sleep.
_3d._--Early in the morning Mohammed En-Noor paid me a visit, and
promised me that all the things should be restored--not the smallest
thing should be lost.
I looked about, and saw that the greater number of our escort had
disappeared during the night, and gone to their homes. We now commenced
our last stage to Tintalous. Mounted on my camel, I could not help
reflecting that we were tormented to the very doors of the dwelling of
En-Noor, that the people seemed determined we should have no rest till
we arrived there. Afterwards, peradventure, we may find a little repose;
but who can tell?
The rain incommoded us as we advanced. However, in two hours we arrived
at the little village of Asara, where half-a-dozen inhabitants greeted
us with a stare; and an hour afterwards entered the broad and spacious
valley of Tintalous, firing a salute as we did so, in compliment to the
inhabitants.
We had heard much of the great city of Tintalous; and I confess that,
though accustomed to desert exaggerations, my mind had dwelt upon this
place so long, that I expected a much more imposing sight than that
which presented itself. This mighty capital consisted of a mass of
houses and huts, which we calculated to be no more than a hundred and
fifty in number, situated in the middle of the valley, with trees here
and there interspersed. It was nothing but a large village. Still, as
the termination of our journey for the present, and its bearing a name
which has been hitherto thrown down at haphazard anywhere towards the
centre of the southern Sahara, we hailed it with delight. Both huts and
houses wore a truly Soudan character, and I felt that to a certain
extent the object of the Mission was already accomplished.
Mohammed En-Noor chose us out a good place for an encampment, upon some
sand-hills overlooking the entire country. When we had pitched tent, Mr.
Yusuf Moknee was despatched to carry our compliments to the great man of
the town, Sultan En-Noor. This distinguished personage he found laid up
with rheumatism, and unable to receive us as we desired. However, he
expressed a wish to see Dr. Overweg in his character of medical man, and
made a long harangue to Yusuf, the substance of which was, that inasmuch
as we had come from Constantinople,[13] from Tripoli, from Fezzan, from
Ghât, in peace and safety, why should he think of eating us up and
destroying us, like the people of Taghajeet and others?--"No; let the
Christians rest in peace. I will now protect them--let them not fear. If
I had not been ill, I would have come myself, and fetched them from
Taghajeet, and no one should have touched them. Now, I will take them
myself to Zinder, or send my sons with them. They shall be protected on
their journey to Bornou and Soudan."
[13] Where he got this news I cannot tell.
I shall only observe on this, that I do not think Sultan En-Noor could
have brought us clear through the countries of Taghajeet and Tidek. We
might have paid something less, but we must have paid. However, we felt
glad on hearing the report of this speech, and waited patiently for the
evening supper of the great man; but it did not come, to our great
disappointment. The Tanelkums said that this was a kind of home for
them, and that En-Noor always sent them a supper on the evening of their
arrival. When I saw these good people supperless, I considered that
En-Noor would not give one supper without the other, and was not
prepared for both.
We felt our case to be rather hard, especially the Germans; for they had
nothing of their own to eat but dry kuskusou and onions. I was a little
better off. We could get nothing from the town during the day, not even
a fowl or eggs, nor even a bit of cheese.
Nevertheless, we had been told that everything was abundant in this
place. It appears all the sheep are at a distance, out to graze; as for
bullocks, there are none. Dr. Overweg drew out his bottle of port wine,
and we three Europeans soon made an end of that, and retired for the
night in pretty good spirits.
Dr. Overweg and Yusuf calculated the number of people who were reported
to be in pursuit of us from Tajetterat to the Marabouteen, at three
hundred and sixty. The passage of the expedition from Tajetterat to
Tintalous has cost the Government about one hundred and fifty pounds
sterling, at the least. I cannot get over this. However, let us raise
our hearts in thankfulness to Almighty Providence, who still watches
over us, preserves our health, and saves us from destruction.