News of Sidi Jafel--Disputes with Wataitee--His violent Conduct and
strange Language--The Desert--Scarcity of Money--Proceed through a rocky
Country--Soudan Weather--Approach the Frontiers of Aheer--Storm--Hard
Day's Travelling--The Seven Wells of Aisou--"The Haghar are
coming"--Suspicious Characters--Alarm--The Three Strangers--Our
Hospitality--Heat of the Weather--Hard Travelling--Account of the
Kailouee Guides--Women of the Caravan--Their Treatment--Youthful
Concubines--Another long Day--A Rock-Altar--Demonstrations of the
Haghar--Wells of Jeenanee--Marks of Rain--Sprightly Blacks--New
Climate--Change in the Vegetation and the Atmosphere.
We have at length heard what appears to be a fair account of the rumour
respecting that terrible Sidi Jafel. He did leave Janet as if bound for
Tajetterat; but it was for the purpose of giving his camels a feeding of
herbage in that direction. He took his family and tents with him, and
has been seen with his son by the huntsman of Wady Aroukeen. He is not a
sheikh, but a spirited old man; and, from what I can understand, is a
Haghar belonging to Ghemama, and not an Azgher of Ghât. They now assure
us that he had never any intention of attacking us; but as there is
rarely smoke without a fire, it is possible he may have indulged in a
little threatening talk, just to impress an idea of his importance on
the people of Janet. This is Waled Shafou's view of the case.
We moved on from the well of Esalan in the evening, but only for an hour
and a half, to a place in the same wady; where there was abundant
herbage for the camels. Here we had another Tuarick dispute. Wataitee
pretended to fix at a very high rate his services in answering to our
call, and proceeding with us as far as this well. At first I refused to
give anything at all, since he had stipulated to conduct us as far as
the frontiers of Aheer. I then offered him a burnouse (a small white
one), and a shasheeah (or fez), both which he obstinately rejected in my
teeth, but did not state what he wanted--except muttering, "Money,
money, money!"
Fearing some violence from his threatening manner, I was obliged to load
my guns and pistols. Whilst declaring he would not take anything by
force, he used very threatening language. He was to have left us at the
well, but followed us this evening; and when we decamped I determined,
therefore, if possible, to come to some arrangement with him through
En-Noor, as he might prove a dangerous enemy.
Whilst speaking to Yusuf on this subject, En-Noor the Kailouee, who, by
the bye, must not be confounded with the Sultan of Aheer bearing the
same name, came in and told us that he had just seen Wataitee, who was
exceedingly exasperated, and who threatened to stop the caravan in the
morning if his demands were not complied with. What is to be done? Were
we to aim at satisfying all the unjust claims made upon us, we should
not only be beggared immediately, but should have whole crowds of fresh
suppliants coming in every day. Wataitee seems to expect that I should
give him something like a hundred reals in money for his pretended extra
services, and goes thundering about, "that the lands, and rocks, and
mountains of Ghât do not belong to God, but to the Azgher, to whom the
Creator has given them once and for ever, and who are the sovereign and
omnipotent rulers of this portion of earth--this large tract of Sahara."
There has often been detected in the speeches of African princes a
certain degree of blasphemy and resistance to the omnipotent sovereignty
of the Deity they adore; and this kind of language was not new to me.
The possessors of lawless power seem easily to identify themselves with
gods.
To us, naked rocks, and treeless valleys, and bare stony plains, are
objects without interest, except in a geological point of view. But it
is very different with the Haghar and Azgher. In their eyes, a plain of
stones and sand holds the place of a heath of growing bloom; a barren
valley is a vale of fertility; rocks and mountains are always objects of
beauty; whilst wells are treasured of wealth, as indeed they are verily
in the desert. A Tuarick may be said to know every stone of his arid
kingdom.
Taking these things into consideration, and making a merit of necessity,
we agreed together to offer him thirty reals. He had already come down
to fifty, and now accepted the thirty, but said they must be the large
ones, or _douros_ (dollars). It was arranged that I should pay the money
to En-Noor in Aheer; for all now had become convinced that not one of us
three had any dollars worth speaking of left. I believe I have some six
or seven, whilst the Germans have none. If we had brought a thousand
with us, they would all have been scattered to the wind in these Tuarick
countries. Our servants, being persuaded that we have no dollars left,
have sworn to the fact; so that my candid declaration, "That if they
were to kill me, they could not find ten dollars to pay them for their
trouble," is now believed.
_14th._--Wataitee came early to my tent, and asked me for a bit of
sugar. I gave him half a loaf, with which he was apparently well
satisfied; for afterwards he asked if I had any letters to take to Ghât.
I consigned to him a letter for Mr. Bidwell and my wife. Wataitee amused
Barth by recounting to him numerous dues which he had failed to pay.
Amongst the rest, a tax to see the Kasar Janoon; fifty dollars for
drinking of the well of Esalan, &c. &c. These matters being at length
settled, we proceeded for Aisou, and journeyed a long day of twelve
hours and a-half. I was looking out every moment, expecting to clear the
rocks, and enter upon the immeasurable stretch of plain reported to us.
But all was a rocky granite expanse, with conical-shaped rocks, exactly
as before described. We begin to tire of this kind of country, which
seemed so picturesque when we first entered upon it.
To-day the weather was misty, and we felt as if entering into the circle
of a new climate. Few or no animals were seen. All is dismal and dreary.
_15th._--We rose at daybreak, and proceeded steadily on, making a day's
journey of thirteen long weary hours. The stony plain opened rather more
than yesterday, but there were always rocks on either hand.
To-day we had the first drops of Soudan rain, and a complete Soudan
atmosphere. We also observed the vermilion tinge on the clouds, peculiar
to Central Africa; and the air was hot and clammy. Every sort of desert
phenomenon is seen in these parts in perfection. The mirage often fills
up the interstices left between the rocks, and inundates the plain ahead
with its fantastic waters.
_16th._--We were early in motion this day; and started, cheered by the
hope held out to us, that at the termination of two long marches we
should at length reach, at the Seven Wells of Aisou, the frontiers of
Aheer. It is true that we were promised no town, no village, not even
visible landmarks; above all, no custom-house officers to suggest the
blessings of civilisation. There was, in truth, some idea that very
indefinite dues might be exacted of us during our progress through the
northern districts of the Asben territory. Still it was a comfort to get
at last within the limits of the influence of a form of polity, however
rude.
Whilst we were indulging in these reflections, there came on a regular
desert-storm. A vault of clouds, like huge irregular rocks, was soon
heaped up overhead. The thunder roared from side to side of the horizon.
The lightning flashed, sometimes above, sometimes between, the isolated
hills, showing them like long black tents pitched here and there on the
plain. Our beasts moved eagerly on; and their drivers, though accustomed
to such phenomena, were hushed into awe. The tempest did not last many
minutes; but it was accompanied by wind so violent that we could
scarcely preserve our seats in the saddles, and finished off with so
violent a shower of rain that we got quite wet through almost in an
instant. This is a fair warning that we are really within the tropics.
We made fourteen hours that day, and felt dreadfully exhausted on
arriving at the place where we expected to encamp for the night. In two
hours, however, the Kailouees came and told us that there was no more
water in the skins; that the camels were restless, knowing that a well
was ahead; and that it was better to move on at once, and make for the
well of Aisou, that marks the commencement of the Aheer territory. We
started, therefore, again, although I was suffering from illness, and
moved on all night, nodding in our saddles in a half-slumber, that to
those unaccustomed is almost more fatiguing than watchfulness. Several
times I felt inclined to insist on a halt; but the people, who were
eager to arrive, cried out that _the camels wanted to reach the water_;
and proceeding accordingly, about seven o'clock the next morning we at
length reached the Seven Wells. We found only two open, the others being
closed up by sand. Some of them belong to the Kailouees, and the others
to the Tuaricks of Ghât. There is no good feeding for the camels, only a
few tufts of coarse herbage. The kingdom of Aheer presents itself under
grim colours. I did not move about this day, but consecrated it to rest.
The rocks of Asben rise above the horizon.
_18th._--Bidding adieu to the land of Ghât--if that name can be applied
to the desert which we have just traversed--we left the Seven Wells, and
once more entered upon the desert. We had scarcely been in motion two
hours, when there was an alarm of Haghar coming upon us from behind. I
did not at first know how the report originated, and looked anxiously
around upon the desert expecting to see a body of enemies charging down
some valley. All the people ran for their guns, and I hastily delivered
out powder and ball. It was amusing to see the slaves with their bows
and arrows, coming forward and trying to look martial. I have no doubt
they would have done their best. When the tumult was a little calmed, I
learned that two of our people, who had remained behind a short time at
the wells of Aisou, saw a Tuarick coming up to the place, and, two
others slowly following, all three mounted on tall maharees. They spoke
to the one who arrived first, and inquired if many were behind. To this
they received a laconic answer, "Yes." One of them accordingly, feigning
to retire, left his servant hid behind a rock to watch what took place,
and ran after us to communicate the unwelcome intelligence, that we
might expect an attack. We marched the whole day with our weapons in
hand, keeping a sharp look-out in the rear. Of course there was no other
subject of conversation than the robbers, of whose existence our fears
made us certain. Were they, after all, led by that Sidi Jafel, of whom
rumour had lately become so complimentary? Whence did these encouraging
accounts come? Were they circulated by persons interested in putting us
off our guard? Discussing these questions, we pushed on through a very
arid country, searching for one of those two blessings, which seem to be
always separated in this part of the desert,--water and herbage. We had
found the former at Aisou; the latter greeted us in plenty at a place
called Takeesat, where we encamped, intending to pass the night and the
whole of next day. The herbage was of the kind called _nasee_, which is
very strengthening for the camels.
I believed that the Haghar would not follow the Kailouees upon their own
territory, but I was mistaken. Just before sunset, to our surprise, we
saw rising above the hills around the valley where we are encamped,
three mounted men. These mysterious Haghar are then determined, we
thought, to pursue us Christians as their natural prey! The men rode
coolly up and mingled with us, probably understanding and enjoying the
looks of suspicion and terror that greeted them. No one thought proper,
at first, to address them a single question; and they were allowed to
picket their maharees without molestation. It must be confessed that
there was no little agitation in our camp, and everything was done to
give any attacking force a warm reception. We made barricades of the
boat, and kept watch all night. We also scoured the valley all round to
see if there were any other people about.
I must insist, for the credit of our gallantry, that it was not of these
three men that we were afraid. Our caravan was composed of sixty
individuals capable of bearing arms, besides women and children. Our
camels also amounted to one hundred and seven. Had we not, therefore,
been tormented for so many days by rumours of intended attacks, we
should have laughed at these Haghars, however fierce might have been
their looks, and however hostile their intentions. But our guides, who
knew the habits of the desert, did not think it beneath their dignity to
be alarmed, nor to look anxiously about to the right and to the left, as
if every stone concealed an enemy, every ravine an ambush.
By the way, it may be as well to mention here, that the reader may know
how to call the enemies we feared, that although vulgarly the whole race
that inhabits between the borders of Fezzan and Timbuctoo are called
Haghar, the Tuaricks of Ghât are properly distinguished as Azgher; and
those located towards Tuat and the Joliba, Haghar. Had they and their
party been of generally predatory dispositions, they would have had
something to occupy them--the caravan belonging to Haj Ibrahim coming
from Soudan. We should, perhaps, be uncharitable enough to hope that
precious time might be occupied in plundering these good people, were we
not certain that, if we are really to be attacked, it is because of the
presence of Christians. Will our guides peril life or limb to preserve
from danger people whose tenets they abhor?
_19th._--The three men, supposed scouts or spies, remained with us
during the night. At first, it was proposed to push on, and get as far
as possible away from danger; but as our unbidden guests made a great
oath that they did not know that there were foreigners in the caravan,
and that they only wanted a supper, having had nothing to eat for
fifteen days, we determined to carry out our original intention, both
for the sake of our camels and ourselves. That the men might be bound to
us by the tie of hospitality, I presented them with some hamsa, to which
En-Noor added a little zumeetah, and we determined at all hazards to
give our camels and ourselves rest. Our people, in fact, soon discovered
that the Tuaricks had brought nothing with them but a single skin of
water. They pretend they are going to see their friends and relations in
Aheer, and wish to accompany us, which our people have politely
declined. But I must see the end of them before I set down an opinion.
I wrote up my journal to-day, and am in good health. My spirits are a
little soured, nay, exasperated into activity by these constant
troubles. It is very hot now. I have hit upon a happy contrivance for
keeping out the sun from my tent. I lay my carpet on the sandy floor of
my tent, and with my table and the frame of my bed I make a wooden
covering over. On the top I place my mattress and thick blankets, I then
lay myself down underneath; and am perfectly protected from the sun
above, whilst the cool breeze enters at the bottom of the tent. There
is, then, not a person in the caravan who suffers so little from the
heat as I do, I recommend the plan to travellers.
These last four days we have made immense progress towards Aheer--I
mean, its inhabited districts.
Wednesday 12-1/2 hours 31 miles.
Thursday 13 " 32-1/2 "
Friday 14 " 35 "
Friday night to Saturday morning 9 " 22-1/2 "
-------
At 2-1/2 miles an hour 121 miles.
Sometimes, however, the camels went at least three miles an hour. We
have come, indeed, about 130 miles, and nearly all south; which has
brought us so much more within the influence of the climate of Soudan.
On the third day, at noon, the granite region disappeared, and we have
now sandstone again.
Some of our servants have begun to feel uneasy, and are becoming
troublesome, in consequence of these constant alarms of Haghar. To do
the free blacks justice, they behave well. Yusuf is getting out of
temper, and somewhat changed in manner. He is annoyed at seeing me not
place so much confidence in him as at first; I have reason to be
dissatisfied with his carelessness. Mahommed of Tunis is a good servant,
but at times impertinent.
I am getting rather more accustomed to our Kailouee companions. They are
dressed in most respects like the Tuaricks, but seem to take pride in
loading themselves with a luxury of weapons. To see one of them running
after a camel is really a ludicrous sight: bow, arrows, sword, gun,
pistols, dagger, stick out in all directions, and it is hard to imagine
how they would behave in the midst of this arsenal if attacked. The
chief of them is En-Noor, a person of mild and good manners--quite a
gentleman, in fact. He is a man of light complexion; but his two
companions are dark as thorough negroes. These individuals, Dedee and
Feraghe by name, are great beggars, and by no means scrupulous in their
conduct. I steadily resist their demands. En-Noor manages to preserve
his dignity by their side. He tells me he will go along with us as far
as Zinder. The Kailouees have some servants with them, very
good-humoured black fellows. Of the Tanelkums I know little; but Haj
Omer, who will accompany us to Kanou, seems a man of courage and tact.
There are two or three venerable old men amongst these Tuaricks,
together with some young ones. They all feel the civilising effect of
visiting Mourzuk. Certainly this people could do much, if they pleased,
for the civilisation of Africa; but at present they are actively engaged
in drawing out of the unfortunate central countries the capital
requisite to maintain even their existence. Of Boro, the sheikh of
Aghadez, I cannot yet venture an opinion. They say, he spoke sharply
against Hateetah and Wataitee.
To return to the Kailouees. I imagine they must resemble all the men we
shall find in the interior, in one respect--the love of women. They are
eloquent in describing the beauties of the cities of Soudan--eloquent, I
mean, in their sensual style, of which I cannot venture to give a
specimen. The Tanelkums, children of the desert, are, like the Haghars,
far less sensual in their imaginations, and indulge less in amorous
conversation. There are some comely women-slaves in the caravan, but
most of them are very plain. They have in general negro features, but a
few are light in complexion. Their clothing is poor, without any attempt
at finery; but when they have prepared the food of their masters they
take their shares freely. They walk well on the road when necessary, and
being light and slightly made, do not appear to suffer from fatigue.
As a rule, all these women are modest and decorous in behaviour, and are
treated with considerable respect. No master interferes with the slaves
of another, and most of them are permitted in their turn to ride. A poor
creature belonging to a Tuatee, however, is forced always to trudge on
foot, although its master often takes a lift himself. Two of the women
have infants in their arms--little things, as knowing, to all
appearance, as those that can run. These mothers, with their children,
are treated with great tenderness and care.
Some of the merchants had as many as three female slaves a-piece; but it
is to be observed, that they are mere girls. The Africans who can afford
to indulge their tastes, abhor women of any age. All their slaves are of
tender years. The older these gentlemen get, the younger they require
their concubines to be. An aged sinner of Aghadez had a mere child with
him. En-Noor is said to have half-a-dozen stout girls running about his
house. Really, to satisfy the passions and sensuality of these Africans,
women should be like the houris of Paradise, and never grow old. Those
that accompanied us were, of course, regarded as mistresses, but were
required also to do nearly all the drudgery of the caravan. Their
masters must have sold much prettier and finer girls at Ghât.
The name of the place where we are now encamped is, as I have said,
Takeesat, and that of the rocky plain we traversed between Esalan and
Aisou is [_omitted in Journal_]. We shall now have great confusion in
the denominations of places, the Tuaricks using one name and the
Kailouees another.
_20th._--We rose early, and at four o'clock were already in motion. It
was a long and weary day--fourteen hours of actual travelling; but this,
thank Heaven! is, we are told, the last long stretch of that kind we
shall have to undertake. The country was nearly similar to that between
Falezlez and Aisou; plains or slightly indented valleys. The granite
appeared again, with sandstone on the top. No herbage was found to-day,
except a few scanty bits here and there.
In the morning our blacks all ran up to a sugar-loaf shaped rock, which
they called their altar or temple, Jama. There they performed certain
strange incantations, after which they descended and began to indulge in
mock-fights, sometimes even simulating an attack upon the caravan. What
was the real meaning of their pantomime it was impossible to make out,
but they amused us exceedingly by their wild gestures and cries.
The three mysterious Haghars still continued to follow us throughout the
day, declaring that they had no evil intentions, but were merely poor
wayfarers journeying to Aheer. They have made friends with the
Tanelkums, with whom they have more points of resemblance than with the
Kailouees. In appearance and manners they are remarkable enough. They
wear a shield of bullock or rhinoceros hide hanging down on one side of
their camels. During our march, it was evidently their desire to show
off; for they moved in order of battle as they called it, in a line, the
two who had spears holding them bravely up. It was certainly a pretty
sight to see them play off this little exercise. But in the evening,
after dark, they returned from feeding their camels somewhere in the
mountains, and came and bivouacked close to us and our baggage. This
alarmed us, and we sent En-Noor to remonstrate with them. After some
wrangling, they promised to leave us if we would give them supper. We
did so, and got rid of them for the night.
There was some dispute this evening with the servants about pitching our
tent. I always find them ready to escape this trouble when they can.
However, it appears that En-Noor recommended us not to pitch our tents
that we may not be known during the night, in the event of these three
Haghars having comrades skulking after them, seeking an opportunity to
attack us.
_21st._--We rose an hour before daylight, and journeyed eight hours,
passing through a country resembling that of yesterday, and a pleasant
valley called Wady Jeenanee, until we arrived at the wells of the same
name. They are scooped out of the sand in a stony bed, and amidst rocks.
The water is very palatable. It has no natural source, but there is an
abundant supply for several months, and even years, after great rains.
To-day we noticed, for the first time on our journey from Tripoli, the
recent marks of the fall of a great quantity of rain. It had left after
it exactly the same forms on the sandy valley which we see at all times,
quite dry, in the more desolated regions of the Sahara. There cannot be
a doubt that occasionally an immense quantity of rain falls in every
region of this great desert.
The senna plant was picked up again to-day, and the tree called aborah
appeared in great numbers in the wady, in a corner of which we encamped.
Although our friends, the three Haghars, promised to leave us for ever
if they had a supper, yesterday they appeared again _en route_ to chat
with their Tanelkum acquaintances. God knows, they may be honest men--in
reality, poor devils obliged to beg their way to Aheer. They wander
about here and there. (I have not seen them this evening, five P.M.)
Notwithstanding that the blacks of our caravan (mostly slaves) walked on
foot fourteen long, long hours yesterday, they still danced, and sang,
and played games in the evening, and kept it up till midnight! How
capable are these Africans of bearing up against fatigue and toil! Could
we Europeans do as they do? Not even in our own country, and under our
own climate.
They afterwards made a collection of small articles of clothing, and
other little things. I gave them a handkerchief, with which they were
greatly delighted.
We had a perfect Soudan atmosphere to-day. The heavens were surcharged
with clouds, and when the sun appeared through them for a few minutes,
it was burning, scorching hot. The abundance of herbage and trees in
Wady Jeenanee combined with these circumstances to show that we had
entered the gates of a new climate.
_21st._[9]--We started late, seven A.M., and journeyed about six hours,
the camels eating nearly all the way, which gave our Tuarick caravan the
appearance of a company of Arabs. To-day the herbage and trees
increased, in abundance and variety, and we saw several pretty wild
flowers. We observed many Soudan trees, or trees with tropical aspects.
Our route lay through rocky valleys, over a bed of fine granite sand.
The rocks were all blackened, forming a gloomy landscape, especially as
all the morning the heavens were one impenetrable mass of clouds. The
atmosphere felt, at first, damp and suffocating; but at length the wind
got up, and we breathed more freely.
[9] Here is a day repeated in the journal; but as it is not of
much moment, I have made no alteration.--ED.