ENTERTAINING IN A COUNTRY HOUSE.

We who love the country salute you who love the town. I praise

the rivulets, the rocks overgrown with moss, and the groves of

the delightful country. And do you ask why? I live and reign

as soon as I have quitted those things which you extol to the

skies with joyful applause, and like a priest's fugitive-slave

I reject luscious wafers; I desire plain bread, which is more

agreeable than honied cakes.--HORACE, _Ode_ X.

Poets have been in the habit of praising a country life since the days

of Homer, but Americans have not as a people appreciated its joys. As

soon as a countryman was able to do it, he moved to the largest city

near him, presumably New York, or perhaps Paris. The condition of

opulence, much desired by those who had been bred in poverty,

suggested at once the greater convenience of a town life, and the busy

work-a-day world, to which most Americans are born, necessitates the

nearness to Wall Street, to banks, to people, and to the town.

City people were content formerly to give their children six weeks of

country air, and old New Yorkers did not move out of the then small

city, even in the hot months. The idea of going to the country to live

for pleasure, to find in it a place in which to spend one's money and

to entertain, has been, to the average American mind, a thing of

recent growth. Perhaps our climate has much to do with this. People

bred in the country feared to meet that long cold winter of the

North, which even to the well-to-do was filled with suffering. Who

does not remember the ice in the pitcher of a morning, which must be

broken before even faces were washed?

Therefore the furnace-heated city house, the companionship, the

bustle, the stir, and convenience of a city has been, naturally

enough, preferred to the loneliness of the country. As Hawthorne once

said, Americans were not yet sufficiently civilized to live in the

country. When he went to England, and saw a different order of things,

he understood why.

England, a small place with two thousand years of civilization, with

admirable roads, with landed estates, with a mild winter, with a taste

for sport, with dogs, horses, and well-trained servants, was a very

different place.

It may be years before we make our country life as agreeable as it is

in England. We have to conquer climate first. But the love of country

life is growing in America. Those so fortunate as to be able to live

in a climate like that of southern California can certainly quote

Horace with sympathy. Those who live so near to a great city as to

command at once city conveniences and country air and freedom, are

amongst the fortunate of the earth. And to hundreds, thousands of

such, in our delightfully prosperous new country, the art of

entertaining in a country house assumes a new interest.

No better model for a hostess can be found than an Englishwoman. There

is, when she receives her guests, a quiet cordiality, a sense of

pleasurable expectancy, an inbred ease, grace, suavity, composure, and

respect for her visitors, which seems to come naturally to a

well-bred Englishwoman; that is to say, to the best types of the

highest class. To be sure they have had vast experience in the art of

entertaining; they have learned this useful accomplishment from a long

line of well-trained predecessors. They have no domestic cares to

worry them. At the head of her own house, an Englishwoman is as near

perfection as a human being can be.

There is the great advantage of the English climate, to begin with. It

is less exciting than ours. Nervous women are there almost unknown.

Their ability to take exercise, the moist and soft air they breathe,

their good appetite and healthy digestion give English women a

physical condition almost always denied to an American.

Our climate drives us on by invisible whips; we breathe oxygen more

intoxicating than champagne. The great servant question bothers us

from the cradle to the grave; it has never entered into an English

woman's scheme of annoyance, so that in an English hostess there is a

total absence of fussiness.

English women spend the greater part of the year in travelling, or at

home in the country. Town life is with them a matter of six weeks or

three months at the most. They are fond of nature, of walking, of

riding; they share with the men a more vigorous physique than is given

to any other race. A French or Italian woman dreads a long walk, the

companionship of a dozen dogs, the yachting and the race course, the

hunting-field and the lawn tennis pursued with indefatigable

vigilance; but the fair English girl, with her blushing cheeks, her

dog, her pony, and her hands full of wild flowers, is a character

worth crossing the ocean to see. She is the product of the highest

civilization, and as such is still near the divine model which nature

furnishes. She has the underlying charm of simplicity, she is the

very rose of perfect womanhood. She may seem shy, awkward, and

reserved, but what the world calls pride or coldness may turn out to

be hidden virtue, or reserve, or modesty.

English home education is a seminary of infinite importance; a girl

learns to control her speech, to be always calm and well-bred. She has

been toned down from her youth. She has been carefully taught to

respect the duties of her high position; she has this advantage to

counterbalance the disadvantage which we freeborn citizens think may

come with an overpride of birth,--she has learned the motto _noblesse

oblige_. The English fireside is a beacon light forever to the soldier

in the Crimea, to the colonist in Australia, to the grave official in

India, to the missionary in the South Seas, to the English boy

wherever he may be. It sustains and ennobles the English woman at home

and abroad.

As a hostess, the English woman is sure to mould her house to look

like home. She has soft low couches for those who like them,

high-backed tall chairs for the tall, low chairs for the lowly. She

has her bookcases and pretty china scattered everywhere, she has

work-baskets and writing-tables and flowers, particularly wild ones,

which look as if she had tossed them in the vases herself. Her house

looks cheerful and cultivated.

I use the word advisedly, for all taste must be cultivated. A state

apartment in an old English house can be inexpressibly dreary. High

ceilings, stiff old girandoles, pictures of ancestors, miles of

mirrors, and the Laocoön or other specimens of Grecian art, which no

one cares for except in the Vatican, and the ceramic and historical

horrors of some old collector, who had no taste,--are enough to

frighten a visitor. But when a young or an experienced English

hostess has smiled on such a house, there will be some delightful

lumber strewn around, no end of pretty brackets and baskets and

curtains and screens, and couches piled high with cushions; and then

the quaint carvings, the rather affected niches, the mantelpiece

nearly up to the ceiling, as in Hogarth's picture,--all these become

humanized by her touch. The spirit of a hostess should aim at the

combination of use and beauty. Some finer spirits command both, as

Brunelleschi hung the dome at Florence high in air, and made a thing

of beauty, which is a joy forever, but did not forget to build under

it a convenient church as well. As for the bedrooms in an English

country house, they transcend description, they are the very

apotheosis of comfort.

The dinners are excellent, the breakfast and lunch comfortable,

informal, and easy, the horses are at your disposal, the lawn and

garden are yours for a stroll, the chapel lies near at hand, where you

can study architecture and ancient brass. There are pleasant people in

the house, you are let alone, you are not being entertained. That most

dreadful of sensations, that somebody has you on his mind, and must

show you photographs and lift off your _ennui_ is absent; you seem to

be in Paradise.

English people will tell you that house parties are dull,--not that

all are, but some are. No doubt the jaded senses lose the power of

being pleased. A visit to an English house, to an American who brings

with her a fresh sense of enjoyment, and who remembers the limitations

of a new country, one who loves antiquity, history, old pictures, and

all that time can do, one who is hungry for Old World refinements, to

such an one a visit to an English country house is delightful. To a

worn-out English set whose business it has been for a quarter of a

century to go from one house to another, no doubt it is dull. Some

unusual distraction is craved.

"To relieve the monotony and silence and the dull, depressing cloud

which sometimes settles on the most admirably arranged English

dinner-party, even an American savage would be welcomed," says a

modern novel-writer. How much more welcome then is a pretty young

woman who, with a true enthusiasm and a wild liberty, has found her

opportunity and uses it, plays the banjo, tells fortunes by the hand,

has no fear of rank, is in her set a glacier of freshness with a heart

of fire, like Roman punch.

How much more gladly is a young American woman welcomed, in such a

house, and how soon her head is turned. She is popular until she

carries off the eldest son, and then she is severely criticised, and

by her spoiled caprices becomes a heroine for Ouida to rejoice in, and

the _fond_ of a society novel.

But the glory is departing from many a stately English country house.

Fortune is failing them; they are, many of them, to rent. Rich

Americans are buying their old pictures. The Gainsboroughs, the Joshua

Reynoldses, the Rembrandts, which have been the pride of English

country houses, are coming down, charmed by the silver music of the

almighty dollar; the old fairy tale is coming true,--even the

furniture dances.

We have the money and we have the vivacity, according to even our

severest critics; we have now to cultivate the repose of an English

hostess, if we would make our country houses as agreeable as she does.

We cannot improvise the antiquity, or the old chapel, or the brasses;

we cannot make our roads as fine as those which enable an English

house party to drive sixteen miles to a dinner; in fact we must admit

that they have been nine hundred years making a lawn even. But we must

try to do things our own way, and use our own advantages so that we

can make our guests comfortable.

The American autumn is the most glorious of seasons for entertaining

in a country house. Nature hangs our hillsides then with a tapestry

that has no equal even at Windsor. The weather, that article which in

America is so apt to be good that if it is bad we apologize for it, is

more than apt to be good in October, and makes the duties of a hostess

easy then, for Nature helps to entertain.

It is to be feared that we have not yet learned to be guests. Trusting

to that boundless American hospitality which has been apt to say,

"Come when you please and stay as long as you can," we decline an

invitation for the 6th, saying we can come on the 9th. This cannot be

done when people begin to give house-parties. We must go on the 6th or

not at all.

We should also define the limits of a visit, as in England; one is

asked on Wednesday to arrive at five, to leave at eleven on Saturday.

Then one does not overstay one's welcome. Host and hostess and guest

must thoroughly understand one another on this point, and then

punctuality is the only thing to be considered.

The opulent, who have butler, footman, and French cooks, need read no

further in this chapter, the remainder of which will be directed to

that larger class who have neither, and who have to help themselves.

No lady should attempt to entertain in the country who has not a good

cook, and one or two attendant maids who can wait well and perform

other duties about the house. With these three and with a good deal of

knowledge herself, a hostess can make a country house attractive.

The dining-room should be the most agreeable room in the house, shaded

in the morning and cool in the afternoon,--a large room with a

hard-wood floor and mats, if possible, as these are clean and cool.

Carving should be done by one of the servants at a side table. There

is nothing more depressing on a warm evening than a smoking joint

before one's plate. A light soup only should be served, leaving the

more substantial varieties for cold weather.

Nowadays the china and glass are so very pretty, and so very cheap,

that they can be bought and used and left in the house all winter

without much risk. If people are living in the country all winter a

different style of furnishing, and a different style of entertaining

is no doubt in order.

It is well to have very easy laws about breakfast, and allow a guest

to descend when he wishes. If possible give your guest an opportunity

to breakfast in his room. So many people nowadays want simply a cup of

tea, and to wait until noon before eating a heavy meal; so many desire

to eat steaks, chops, toast, eggs, hot cakes, and coffee at nine

o'clock, that it is difficult for a hostess to know what to do. Her

best plan, perhaps, is to have an elastic hour, and let her people

come down when they feel like it. In England the maid enters the

bedroom with tea, excellent black tea, a toasted muffin, and two

boiled eggs at eight o'clock, a pitcher of hot water for the

wash-stand, and a bath. No one is obliged to appear until luncheon,

nor even then if indisposed so to do. Dinner at whatever hour is a

formal meal, and every one should come freshly dressed and in good

form, as the English say.

The Arab law of hospitality should be printed over every lintel in a

country house: "Welcome the coming, speed the parting guest;" "He who

tastes my salt is sacred; neither I nor my household shall attack him,

nor shall one word be said against him. Bring corn, wine, and fruit

for the passing stranger. Give the one who departs from thy tents the

swiftest horse. Let him who would go from thee take the fleet

dromedary, reserve the lame one for thyself." If these momentous hints

were carried out in America, and if these children of the desert, with

their grave faces, composed manners, and noble creed, could be

literally obeyed, we fear country-house visiting would become almost

too popular.

But if we cannot give them the fleet dromedary, we can drive them to

the fast train, which is much better than any dromedary. We can make

them comfortable, and enable them to do as they like. Unless we can do

that, we should not invite any one.

Unless a guest has been rude, it is the worst taste to criticise him.

He has come at your request. He has entered your house as an altar of

safety, an ark of refuge. He has laid his armour down. Your kind

welcome has unlocked his reserve. He has spoken freely, and felt that

he was in the presence of friends. If in this careless hour you have

discovered his weak spot, be careful how you attack it. The intimate

unreserve of a guest should be respected.

And upon the guest an equal, nay, a superior conscientiousness should

rest, as to any revelation of the secrets he may have found out while

he was a visitor. No person should go from house to house bearing

tales. We do not go to our friend's house to find the skeleton in the

closet. No criticisms of the weaknesses or eccentricities of any

member of the family should ever be heard from the lips of a guest.

"Whose bread I have eaten, he is henceforth my brother," is another

Arab proverb.

Speak well always of your entertainers, but speak little of their

domestic arrangements. Do not violate the sanctity of the fireside, or

wrong the shelter of the roof-tree which has lent you its protection

for even a night.

The decorations for a country ballroom, in a rural neighbourhood, have

called forth many an unknown genius in that art which has become the

well-known profession of interior decoration. The favourite place in

Lenox, and at many a summer resort, has been the large floor of a new

barn. Before the equine tenants begin to champ their oats, the youths

and maids assume the right to trip the light fantastic toe on the

well-laid hard floor. The ornamentations at such a ball at Lenox were

candles put in pine shields, with tin holders, and decorations of corn

and wheat sheaves, tied with scarlet ribbons, surrounding pumpkins

which were laid in improvised brackets, hastily cut out of pine, with

hatchets, by the young men. Magnificent autumn leaves were arranged

with ferns as garlands, and many were the devices for putting candles

and kerosene lamps behind these so as to give almost the effect of

stained glass, without causing a general conflagration.

The effect of a pumpkin surrounded by autumn leaves recalls the

Gardens of the Hesperides. No apple like those golden apples which we

call pumpkins was ever seen there. To be sure they are rather large to

throw to a goddess, and might bowl her down, but they look very

handsome when tranquilly reposing.

A sort of Druidical procession might be improvised to help along this

ball, and the hostess would amuse her company for a week with the

preparations.

First, get a negro fiddler to head it, dressed like Browning's Pied

Piper in gay colours, and playing his fiddle. Then have a procession

of children, dressed in gay costumes; following them, "two milk-white

oxen garlanded" with wreaths of flowers and ribbons, driven by a boy

in Swiss costume; then a goat-cart with the baby driving two goats,

also garlanded; next a lovely Alderney cow, also decorated,

accompanied by a milkmaid, carrying a milking-stool; then another long

line of children, followed by the youths and maids, bearing the

decorations for the ballroom. Let all these parade the village street

and wind up at the ballroom, where the cow can be milked, and a

surprise of ice cream and cake given to the children. This is a

Sunday-school picnic and a ball decoration, all in one, and the

country lady who can give it will have earned the gratitude of

neighbours and friends. It has been done.

In the spring the decorations of a ballroom might be early wild

flowers and the delicate ground-pine, far more beautiful than smilax,

and also ferns, the treasures of the nearest wood.

Wild flowers, ferns, and grasses, the ground-pine, the checkerberry,

and the partridge berry make the most exquisite garlands, and it is

only of late--when a few great geniuses have discovered that the field

daisy is the prettiest of flowers, that the best beauty is that which

is at our hands wherever we are, that the greatest rarity is the grass

in the meadow--that we have reached the true meaning of interior

decoration.

Helen Hunt, in one of her prettiest papers, describes the beauty of

kinnikinick, a lovely vine which grows all over Colorado. Although we

have not that, we can even in winter find the hemlock boughs, the

mistletoe, the holly, for our decorations. Of course, hot-house

flowers and smilax, if they can be obtained, are very beautiful and

desirable, but they are not within the reach of every purse, or of

every country house.

Sheaves of wheat, tied with fine ribbons and placed at intervals

around a room, can be made to have the beauty of an armorial bearing.

These, alternating with banners and hemlock boughs, are very

effective. All these forms which Nature gives us have suggested the

Corinthian capital, the Ionic pillar, the most graceful of Greek

carvings. The acanthus leaf was the inspiration of the architect who

built the Acropolis.

Vine leaves, especially after they begin to turn, are capable of

infinite suggestion, and we all remember the recent worship of the

sunflower. Hop vines and clematis, especially after the last has gone

to seed, remain long as ornaments.

As for the refreshments to be served,--the oyster stew, the ice cream,

the good home-made cake, coffee, and tea are within the reach of every

country housekeeper, and are in their way unrivalled. Of course, if

she wishes she can add chicken salad, boned turkey, _pâté de foie

gras_, and punch, hot or cold.

If it is in winter, the coachmen outside must not be forgotten. Some

hot coffee and oysters should be sent to these patient sufferers, for

our coachmen are not dressed as are the Russians, in fur from head to

foot. If possible, there should be a good fire in the kitchen, to

which these attendants on our pleasure could be admitted to thaw out.

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