And now the hills that skirt the Youghiogheny river rise to view, and

Somerfield is reached, an ancient little town, which the old metal mile

posts on the road persist in calling Smithfield. That this town was once

called Smithfield there can be no doubt, and that it now is Somerfield

is equally clear. It was originally called Smithfield, because its

founder's name was Smith, but the postoffice department changed it to

Somerfield on account of the great multitude of Smiths and Smithfields

in all portions of the universe. Somerfield has been the scene of many a

lively incident of the old road. Here light feet, impelled by lighter

hearts, tripped to the notes of merry music, and the ringing laugh and

sprightly jokes of the old stage driver and wagoner, enlivened the now

dull halls of the old taverns. The most noted old tavern keeper of

Somerfield was Capt. Thomas Endsley. Somerfield was always a stage

station, the second relay east of Uniontown. The Endsley House was the

headquarters of Stockton's line. It is a stone building, and stands near

the bank of the river at the western end of the town, and was erected in

the year 1818 by Kinkead, Beck & Evans, the old bridge builders, and

occupied and conducted as a tavern by James Kinkead, the senior member

of the firm, from the date of its completion to the year 1822. John

Campbell was its next occupant, who kept it for a term of two years, and

until 1824. Capt. Endsley then took charge of it, and conducted it down

to the year 1829. John Shaffer kept it from 1829 to 1831, when Capt.

Endsley again took charge and continued down to 1834, when Redding

Bunting was installed, and conducted it down to the year 1837. He was

succeeded by John Richards, who remained in charge until 1840. Squire

Hagan conducted it from 1840 to 1842, and Aaron Wyatt from 1842 to 1847,

when Capt. Endsley, the third time, re-entered, and remained in charge

until 1852, when he gave place to his son William, the present

incumbent. This old house is as solid as when first constructed. Its

foundation walls are not the least impaired, and its mortar pointings

are as hard as the stones, while the wood work, and notably the doors,

casings and mantel pieces, are in a perfect state of preservation,

attesting the skill of the mechanics at the early period in which the

house was built. Near the center of the town, on the south side of the

street, an old log tavern was kept by John Campbell, as early as the

year 1824, and immediately after his retirement from the Endsley House.

He was succeeded in turn at this house by L. C. Dunn, Samuel Frazee,

Moses Jennings, and John Bradfield. The June Bug line of stages stopped

at this house, and for a while the Good Intent line. It went out of

business in 1853, was remodeled and improved, and is now the private

residence of James Watson. Prior to 1837 and down to 1849 a tavern was

kept on the north side of the street in Somerfield, by Daniel Blucher,

J. Tantlinger, Capt. Morrow, Aaron Wyatt, Andrew Craig, Samuel Thompson

and P. R. Sides, in the order given. This house ceased to do business in

1849, and was pulled down in 1883, and never rebuilt. In 1823 James

Kinkead, the old bridge builder, kept a tavern in a brick house on the

south side of the street in Somerfield. This house was afterward and

successively kept by William Imhoff, James Watson, Lot Watson, John

Irvin and Ephraim Vansickle. Vansickle was a blind man and engaged in

tavern keeping when the glory of the road was fading away. He had many

of the elements of a successful tavern keeper, and furnished

satisfactory entertainment to the few travelers and strangers who sought

shelter and refreshment under his kindly roof; but he was too late.

Tavern keeping on the National Road was but a legend when he embarked in

the business, and he was constrained to listen day after day, and night

after night to the glowing recitals of the good times in bygone years,

and reconcile himself as best he could to the existing situation. At

Somerfield the road crosses the Youghiogheny river over a large,

handsome and substantial stone bridge, three hundred and seventy-five

feet in length, with three symmetrical arches, and appropriately named

by old pike boys the Big Crossings. A large dressed stone in the wall of

this bridge above the surface of the road, and near the eastern end,

bears the inscription; "Kinkead, Beck & Evans, builders, July 4th,

1818." The day of the month, the anniversary of Independence, is given

because on that day the bridge was finished, and the occasion was

celebrated with great eclat. The inhabitants of the mountains for miles

around, male and female, old and young, with old fashioned banners and

old fashioned music, turned out in great numbers, inspired by that

genuine patriotism which characterized the early period of our country's

independence, while yet many of the soldiers of the revolution were

living, and were addressed in eloquent terms by the Hon. Andrew Stewart,

Col. Samuel Evans, Hon. John Dawson and John M. Austin, of Uniontown.

CHAPTER XXXI.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Big Crossings to Mt.

Washington--Old Shellbark, Jacob Probasco, Jockey Hollow, Old Tom

Brown, Mt. Augusta, Marlow's, the Three Cabins, McCollough's--A

Fugitive Slave Tragedy--A Sermon cut short by the Baying of

Hounds--Charley Rush--The Sheep's Ear--the Bull's Head, the Old

Inks House, Nick McCartney, Boss Rush, Samuel Frazer, John Rush._

The first old tavern west of the "Big Crossings," and the first in

Fayette county, Pa. (for the river here is the boundary line between the

counties of Fayette and Somerset), is that which for many years was kept

by Peter Lenhart, commonly known as "Shellbark." This is a two-story

house, originally built with logs, but subsequently weather-boarded and

painted red. The red, however, has long since disappeared, and it now

wears the dingy, dark colored hue that settles upon all ancient

buildings. A man named Ebert built this house and occupied it as a

private residence. He was a tanner by trade, and a justice of the peace.

He sold out to Peter Lenhart's father, who occupied the house also as a

private residence until his death, when his son Peter succeeded him and

opened up the house as a tavern, and soon after added a distillery. The

house had a good custom and "Shellbark" was prosperous. He was an

eccentric man, and like Orator Puff, had two tones to his voice. He had

a habit, upon rising every morning, of cutting a large slice from a loaf

of bread, spreading it with butter, and eating it in connection with a

glass of whiskey. He enjoyed this matutinal habit for many years, and

rarely omitted it. Why he was called "Shellbark" is not accurately

known. He was in early life an old-line Democrat, but in later years got

"mixed up," and seemed to have lost his political moorings. He died a

few years ago, and his widow and daughter remain in the old house,

occasionally entertaining strangers and travelers in very satisfactory

style.

[Illustration: THE BIG CROSSINGS.]

The next old tavern stand is about half a mile from Lenhart's, on the

south side of the road. The line of the National Road here is the same

as that of the old Braddock road, and this house was kept as a tavern by

Andrew Flenniken, before the National Road was constructed. Jacob

Probasco succeeded Flenniken in this house. Besides keeping a tavern,

Probasco had teams on the road, was a contractor for repairs, operated a

store, put up and operated a grist and saw mill, and engaged in many

other enterprises. One of his contracts was for taking up a portion of

the old road bed. At first, as elsewhere noted, the road was paved with

large boulders, which were subsequently taken up and their places

supplied by stones broken into small pieces. There are points along

the road where the old bed remains, and here the road is in better

condition than elsewhere, which has started the belief that it was a

mistake to take up the original bed; but this is a disputed and

unsettled question. Prominent among those who thought it was a mistake

to take up the original road bed was Capt. Thomas Endsley, the old

tavern keeper of Somerfield. He argued the question on many occasions

with the engineers, and after the work was done adhered to his opinion,

and characterized the plan as a foolish notion of inexperienced young

cadets. Probasco got into trouble in attempting to collect a claim by

attachment, was indicted for perjury, and soon after left the State,

settling in Ohio, and there became prominent and wealthy. It was a

relative, probably a son of Jacob Probasco, who donated the money for

the erection of the celebrated fountains in the city of Cincinnati.

Probasco sold out to Peter Baker, who kept the house a number of years,

and he was succeeded in turn by John Irvin, Jacob Richards, Charles

Kemp, Aaron Wyatt, Morris Mauler, Aden Clary and Alexander Speers. It

was a stage house, and passengers by one of the coach lines took meals

there. John Conway now occupies the property, and it is owned by Aden

Clary, of Frostburg, Maryland. The house is long and narrow, made up of

different structures erected at different times, one part stone, another

log, and a third frame, all now, and for a long time heretofore, joined

together and enclosed by weather-boarding. The intervening space between

this and the Youghiogheny river is called "Jockey Hollow," a level piece

of road upon which horses were run and cock-fighting practiced. Hence

the name Jockey Hollow. Ephraim Vansickle, "Blind Eph," as he was

called, kept a tavern many years in an old log house in Jockey Hollow,

and did a good business. This house was never kept as a tavern by any

other person than Vansickle. He subsequently kept a tavern in

Somerfield. Nicholas Bradley, who died a few years ago, was an old

denizen of Jockey Hollow. He was a contractor on the original

construction of the road, and as his name implies, an Irishman. His son,

Daniel, still lives here, an active business man and an influential

Democratic politician. [I]Jeremiah Easter, esq., Democratic Jury

Commissioner, also lives here. John Conway once kept a tavern in the

"bend of the road" near the foot of the hill, about half a mile west of

Jockey Hollow. This house was a log structure, long since demolished,

and a small frame now stands on the old site. John Conway was Daniel

Bradley's grandfather, long since dead, and therefore not the man at

present occupying the old Probasco tavern.

[Footnote I: Now deceased.]

Next is the old tavern of Thomas Brown. This is a large stone house,

built by Mr. Brown about the time the road was made. It stands on the

south side of the road. Brown kept it as a tavern from the time it was

built until the time of his death. Col. Ben Brownfield and Gen. Henry W.

Beeson were wont to come here on their sleighing excursions in the olden

time, often remaining many nights and days enjoying themselves in

dancing and feasting. Brown was a good fiddler, and furnished his guests

with music, as well as other means of entertainment. He was a large man

with a shrill voice, and considered a popular landlord. The property

remained in the Brown family a few years after the death of the old

proprietor, and ultimately fell into the hands of Jacob Umberson, the

present occupant. The elections of Henry Clay township were formerly

held at this house, and many exciting scenes have been witnessed here on

election day.

The next old tavern site is Mt. Augusta. (Site is used because the old

brick tavern house that stood here for so many years was burned down

some time ago, and has not been rebuilt.) It was one of the largest and

most commodious houses on the road, with two large water troughs and

extensive stabling among the appurtenances. In the palmy days of the

road it did a large business. John Collier was the original owner and

occupant of this property. At his death it fell into the hands of his

son, Daniel, who kept it for a number of years and sold out to Thomas

Brownfield. Brownfield kept tavern here for thirty years, and sold out

to John O'Hegarty, the present owner and occupant. Daniel Collier moved

from here to Georges township, where he died a few years ago, the owner

of a large estate. Brownfield became successively commissioner and

sheriff of Fayette county, Pennsylvania, and at the close of his term as

sheriff removed to the State of Missouri, where he died. The sale of

this property by Brownfield to O'Hegarty, was effected through the

agency of the celebrated Henry Clay Dean. O'Hegarty lived in Lebanon

county, Pennsylvania, when he became the purchaser. The old tavern house

was burnt during the occupancy of Mr. O'Hegarty. After the fire he moved

into a frame tenant house, on the opposite side of the road, a little to

the east, where he lives now. He is an acting justice of the peace,

esteemed for his honesty and probity, and wields great influence among

his neighbors.

Next is a stone house on the south side of the road, first kept as a

tavern by William Shaw, and afterward by William Griffin, Charles Kemp,

Isaac Denny and William A. Stone, in the order given. It did a good

business, and was regarded as a good house.

[Illustration: DANIEL COLLIER.]

Next comes the old Marlow House. This is a large two-story brick

building, near the summit of a long hill. On the opposite side of the

road a large stable was erected, capable of sheltering a hundred horses,

and now in a decaying condition. The indispensable water-trough was here

also. This house was built and kept as a tavern by Benjamin Miller, the

grandfather of Ben, Jeff and Sam Miller, of Uniontown. Miller sold the

property to James Marlow. Marlow kept it a long time, and died in it. At

the time of his death he was superintendent of the road. He was a short,

heavy set, quiet man, and came from Maryland. He had several sons, all

of whom went west many years ago, and one of them is now the proprietor

of the "American hotel," in the city of Denver. Benjamin Miller was

once a candidate for the Legislature, and pending his canvass declared,

"By the Eternal, if the people did not elect him he would go up on the

hill overlooking Harrisburg, and look down with contempt upon the

Capitol." He was not elected.

At the foot of the hill, below the Marlow House, stood, in the olden

time, a cluster of small log cabins, three in number, which constituted

a tavern stand known as the "Bush House," or "Three Cabins." This quaint

old tavern was kept by one Leonard Clark, who entertained a great many

strangers and travelers, especially such as were in quest of something

to slake their thirst. Its best business days were during the time the

road was undergoing construction, and upon its completion the "Three

Cabins" succumbed to more pretentious inns. These cabins were covered

with clap-boards; the chimneys built of rough stones, and "topped out"

with mud and sticks. Clark, the old proprietor, retired from public life

soon after the completion of the road, went west, left his cabins to the

tender mercies of the elements, and scarcely a trace of them can be seen

at this day. That jolly times occurred at this old tavern, among the

early pike boys, there can be no question.

The next house is a two-story stone building with portico in front,

known in recent years as the "Old McCollough Stand." It was built and

first kept as a tavern by a man named Bryant. James Sampey, Isaac Nixon,

Morris Mauler and Nicholas McCartney, each kept this house for shorter

or longer terms before McCollough went into it. Col. John W. McCollough,

who became the owner of the property, kept tavern here for many years,

and died the proprietor. He was a man of stalwart size, a talking man

and a politician. He was likewise a contractor, and did much work on the

road. He left a widow and several children. [J]Jim and Nick, two of his

sons, are well known pike boys. His [K]widow married 'Squire Burke, who

now occupies the house, and there is no place on the road where a better

meal can be obtained. A tragedy was enacted at this house which forms a

memorable event in the history of the old pike, and served as a good

text for the old anti-slavery agitators. It was on the 4th of July,

1845. Early in the morning of that day, while a number of wagoners were

engaged in feeding and cleaning their teams, as they stood in the wagon

yard, a negro passed along the road, and William King, one of the

wagoners aforesaid, cried out in a loud voice to Nicholas McCartney, who

was then keeping the house, "There goes a runaway nigger." "Are you sure

of that?" inquired McCartney. "I am," replied King, whereupon McCartney

darted after the negro and captured him a short distance south of the

house, the rocks and brush in that locality having impeded the progress

of the fugitive. McCartney led him into the house, and informed him that

he was going to take him back to his master in Maryland. The negro

seemed submissive, and McCartney placed him in charge of one Atwell

Holland, his brother-in-law, while he went for a horse to carry out his

purpose of taking him back to Maryland. During McCartney's absence the

negro ran out of the house, and Atwell and others pursued him. Atwell

being more fleet than any of the other pursuers, soon overtook the

negro, whereupon he wheeled upon Holland, drew a dirk knife from his

pocket, struck it into his pursuer's heart, and made good his escape.

Holland immediately fell to the ground, and expired while being borne to

the house by his companions. Among the persons present on this tragic

occasion, was one Lewis Mitchell, who was a great hunter and an

occasional preacher. While Holland was lying on the ground dying,

Mitchell placed wild grape leaves on his wound, and prayed for him.

Mitchell was preaching once in this neighborhood, and in one of his most

earnest passages, heard the yelping of hounds. He immediately ceased

preaching, and exclaimed, "There are the hounds, and d--d if Lead ain't

ahead," and straightway dashed out of the meeting house to join the

sportsmen.

[Footnote J: Both now dead.]

[Footnote K: Now dead.]

The next old tavern is about four hundred yards from the last one, and

was also built by Bryant, above mentioned, but not for a tavern. This

house was kept successively by John McCollough, Morris Mauler and Adam

Yeast, and is now kept by [L]Nick McCollough. There were times when it

had a "good run" of patronage. Adam Yeast, one of its old occupants, was

an eccentric character, and ultimately became a lunatic.

[Footnote L: Since deceased.]

Next we come to Charley Rush's old stand. This was a famous stopping

place. Charles Rush settled here in the woods in 1838, built the house,

which he occupied as a tavern until he died in 1846, in the prime of

life. He always kept a big team on the road, under the management of a

hired driver. He was a brother of Boss Rush, and the father of Henry

Clay Rush, a prominent and influential citizen of Uniontown. He was fond

of horse racing, and always kept fast horses. His son Henry Clay was his

favorite rider, who, when a small boy, appeared on the race course

arrayed in the jockey outfit, and exactly filling the regulation weight.

He would cut a sorry figure now, on the back of a race horse. Charles

Rush was kind and charitable in disposition, but when exigencies

required, would not decline a fisticuff. Many an overbearing bully has

felt the damaging effects of his well-aimed blows. He entertained

strangers and travelers at his hospitable board, whether they had the

means of paying their bills or not, but always preferred that

impecunious guests should inform him of their condition before engaging

accommodations. On one occasion an Irishman tarried with him over night,

and in the morning, after breakfast, informed him that he had no money

to pay his bill. "Why didn't you tell me that last night?" sharply

inquired Mr. Rush. "And faith, sir," replied the Irishman, "I'm very

sorry to tell you of it this morning." Rush, pleased with his wit,

absolved him from his bill, gave him a parting drink, and allowed him to

go "Scot free." [M]William L. Smith, esq., ex-county commissioner,

married the widow Rush, and occupies the old stand as a private

residence. Samuel Rush, a farmer, and brother of Charles, lived about

three miles from here, back in the country. He was a contractor on the

road, and an energetic, honest and highly respected citizen. He was the

father of [N]Marker Rush, the proprietor of the well known "Rush House,"

near the Union Depot, in Pittsburg. Marker must have inherited his

fondness for the sports of the day through his uncle Charles, as his

father was not given to worldly indulgences.

[Footnote M: Now dead.]

[Footnote N: Since deceased.]

[Illustration: SEBASTIAN RUSH.]

There was a little log house a short distance west of Charley Rush's old

stand, which was kept as a tavern for a few years by Edward Dean. It was

not one of the original taverns, and not considered "regular." The pike

boys of the neighborhood called it the "Sheep's Ear." Its chief business

consisted in selling whisky at three cents a drink, which was the price

of whisky all along the road. F. H. Oliphant, the well known iron

manufacturer, probably the oldest in the State, once put a line of

wagons on the road to carry goods and merchandise from Brownsville to

Cumberland. The wagons were drawn by mules, and the teams changed at

fixed points along the road. This old Dean House was one of the stopping

places of this line. One night some mischievous person, or persons, cut

the harness of one of the teams into shreds, so that Oliphant's line did

not move out the next morning from the "Sheep's Ear." Another house of

similar proportions and character near by, was kept by Thomas Dean. It

was known in the neighborhood as the "Bull's Head." It was the custom of

the pike boys of the neighborhood to collect together in these old

houses, when they were kept as taverns, now at one and then at the

other, to "while away" the long winter evenings, and enjoy themselves in

dancing and revelry. Nicholas McCartney often attended these festive

gatherings when a young man, and could relate many interesting incidents

and anecdotes connected with the "Sheep's Ear" and "Bull's Head" inns.

We next come to the old Inks House, now owned and occupied by Nicholas

McCartney. This is a large frame, weather-boarded house, with a spacious

wagon yard attached, a large stable and a number of sheds and other

outbuildings. The house was built by George Inks, and kept by him as a

tavern for many years. A man named Heckrote kept here once, and so also

did John Risler, and Samuel M. Clement, for many years a prosperous

farmer on Redstone creek, near Uniontown, entertained the traveling

public for a brief period, in his early manhood, and proved himself a

competent landlord. The house enjoyed a large share of patronage during

the prosperous times on the road. [O]Mr. McCartney, present occupant and

owner, has been in feeble health for many months. Previous to his

present illness he was a man of robust health and great energy. He is a

son-in-law of Thomas Brownfield, the old proprietor of the Mt. Augusta

House. He is universally esteemed among his neighbors, and general

sympathy is manifested on account of his illness.

[Footnote O: Now dead.]

We next reach the celebrated house of [P]Sebastian Rush, invariably

called "Boss." It is not a wagon stand, but an old stage house. Here

stage passengers took meals, which were invariably gotten up in the best

style. The house was built in 1837 by Hon. Nathaniel Ewing, who then

owned it. Rush moved into it soon after it was finished, as lessee of

Judge Ewing, and not long after purchased it, and occupied it

uninterruptedly to the present time. Here, also, is a store, postoffice

and other improvements, constituting a little village called Farmington,

and considered the grand commercial and business center of the

mountains. Sebastian Rush is widely known as an influential Republican

politician, has been superintendent of the road by appointment of the

Governor, and nominated by his party for Associate Judge, but defeated

by reason of the decided and long existing preponderance of the

Democracy in the county. When a young man, and living in a small log

house near the tavern stand of his brother, Charles, he was elected

constable of his township, and, being too poor to own a horse, performed

the functions of his office on foot. Since then he has made constables

and other officers, and owned horses without number. Previous to 1837

the widow Tantlinger kept tavern in an old wooden house, on the ground

now covered by the Rush house. The store here, before Rush came to the

property, was conducted by Peter T. Laishley, an old and well known

Methodist preacher, still living. He was then a Free Will Baptist.

Morgan Jones also once kept store at this point. He is now a real estate

broker in Philadelphia, and said to be wealthy. He had several brothers,

among them David, John and Samuel E., who were well known. David settled

in Wisconsin, and became Lieutenant Governor. John went to Kentucky, and

became a prominent iron manufacturer. Samuel E. is a Probate Judge in

southern Colorado. Allen Crane also once kept store here.[Q]

[Footnote P: Deceased.]

[Footnote Q: Deceased.]

The house now owned and occupied by Washington Hensel, was once kept as

a tavern by Samuel Frazer. Its public career terminated about the time

Sebastian Rush located at Farmington. A short distance over the hill,

west, there is a frame house, built by John Rush, and by him kept as a

tavern for a number of years. Henry Clay Rush also kept this house for a

short time. It is not classed among the old taverns, but during its

short public career enjoyed a high degree of popularity. Boss Rush, jr.,

lives here now in the capacity of a private citizen. John Rush was one

of the most popular landlords along the road. He is a brother of Boss,

and is still living, somewhere in the west. This old house was destroyed

by fire a few years ago, and nothing remains of it but two tall

chimneys, standing erect at this day.

[Illustration: RUINS OF THE OLD JOHN RUSH HOUSE.]

CHAPTER XXXII.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Fort Necessity,

Washington's First Battle Field, Monroe Springs, Reception to

President Monroe, Gate Bob McDowell, Braddock's Run and Grave,

Fayette Springs, A Trio of Old Fiddlers, Chalk Hill, Snyders, Old

Squire Price, The Summit of Laurel Hill, Molly Calhoun, Ephraim

McLean, The Big Water Trough on Laurel Hill, The Goat Pen, The

Turkey's Nest, Monroe, known now mostly as Hopwood, Matthias Fry,

German D. Hair, The Old Morris House, Widow Sands, Harry Gilbert._

Mt. Washington is a point replete with historic interest. Here

Washington first measured swords with an enemy, and fought his first

battle. It is the site of Fort Necessity, and known in colonial times as

the Great Meadows. Gen. Washington subsequently became the owner of this

property, and held it until his death. It was no doubt owing to the fact

that his first engagement with an armed foe took place on this ground he

resolved to buy it. In his last will he directed it to be sold by his

executors, together with other real estate he held, and the proceeds

divided among parties he named. The tract, when owned by Washington,

contained two hundred and thirty-four acres, and he valued it at six

dollars an acre. He thus refers to it in a note appended to his will:

"This land is valuable on account of its local situation. It affords an

exceeding good stand on Braddock's road, from Ft. Cumberland to

Pittsburg, and besides a fertile soil, possesses a large quantity of

natural meadow, fit for the scythe. It is distinguished by the

appellation of the Great Meadows, where the first action with the

French, in 1754, was fought."

Previous to 1835, and by divers good conveyances and assurances, down

from Washington, this estate passed into the hands of the late Hon.

Nathaniel Ewing, who caused to be erected on the property the large

brick house, still standing, and one of the most noted old taverns on

the road. Judge Ewing subsequently sold and conveyed the property to

James Sampey, who went into possession and kept the tavern for many

years, and until his death. The first year after Mr. Sampey's death the

management of the tavern and farm was placed in charge of Robert

Hogsett, who turned over to the representative of the estate the sum of

four thousand dollars, as the profits of one year. The Good Intent line

of stages stopped at Sampey's, and as showing the extent of the business

of the house, Mr. Hogsett mentions that on one morning seventy-two

stage passengers took breakfast there. John Foster and James Moore

subsequently kept this house. They were sons-in-law of James Sampey, and

Moore was an old stage driver. At the close of business on the road.

Ellis Y. Beggs purchased the property and the tavern was closed. William

D. Beggs, the father of Ellis, died in this house. He had collected the

tolls for many years at the gate near Searights, was likewise a school

teacher, and a good one, and was, for a number of years, Steward of the

County Home. His eldest daughter, Jane, was the second wife of Dr. Smith

Fuller, the eminent Uniontown physician. Godfrey Fazenbaker succeeded

Beggs in the ownership, and engaged extensively in farming and stock

raising. Mr. Fazenbaker died in possession, and the property descended

to his heirs, who are the present occupants. The big water-trough still

remains on the opposite side of the road from this old tavern, but all

else has changed since the days when the proud stage driver cracked his

long silken-ended whip over the backs of his four spanking steeds.

The next old tavern was at Monroe Springs, on the hillside, a short

distance west of one of the old round toll houses. This house was built

by Charles McKinney, and opened up by him as a tavern. It was a log

house, weather-boarded, of small dimensions, now entirely obliterated.

Boss Rush commenced his career as a tavern keeper in the old house at

this point, and it was kept at various times by such well known men as

Wm. S. Gaither, German D. Hair, Wm. Dillon, Morris Mauler, John Rush,

John Foster and David Ogg. It was essentially a wagon stand, and night

after night, in the prosperous era of the road, the ground all around it

was crowded with big wagons and teams, and the old bar room rang out

with the songs and jokes of the jolly wagoner. Opposite the house a

large water-trough was erected, kept full and overflowing from a spring

near by, called "The Monroe Spring," in honor of President Monroe. When

McKinney kept this house President Monroe passed along the road, and a

public dinner was given him here. John Hagan, then a contractor on the

original construction of the road, was prominently connected with the

bestowal of this compliment upon the old-time President. The few old

folks who have personal recollections of this event, speak of it as a

memorable and exciting occasion. The dinner was substantial and superb,

and highly enjoyed by all participating, including the illustrious

guest. John Hagan was the father of Robert Hagan, esq., ex-commissioner

of Fayette county, Pennsylvania.

[Illustration: HON. SAMUEL SHIPLEY.]

One of the old stone toll houses stood a short distance east of the

Monroe Springs, and remained until 1893, when it was torn down. Hiram

Seaton was one of the early collectors at this point. He was the father

of [R]C. S. Seaton, the well known banker of Uniontown. He subsequently

served two terms as County Treasurer. He had a wooden leg, and was

esteemed as an honest man. He went west, settled in Missouri, and died

there. He was succeeded as toll collector by Robert McDowell, always

thereafter called "Gate Bob," to distinguish him from a number of other

well known citizens bearing the same name. Robert McDowell was also an

honest man, a popular man and a fighting man. He was tall, thin and

muscular. His fingers were distorted by rheumatism, but he could use

them in a fight with terrible effect. He was the Democratic candidate

for county commissioner of Fayette county, Pennsylvania, in 1854, but

beaten by the Know Nothings. He died a few years ago at Dunbar, very

greatly lamented. The memory of "Gate Bob" will long remain fresh in the

recollection of the pike boys, old and young.

[Footnote R: Now dead.]

The next old tavern stand is the "Braddock's Run House." Gen. Braddock

was buried near this house, a day or two after his disastrous defeat by

the French and Indians, at Braddock's Field, near Pittsburg. The exact

spot where he was buried is still pointed out, and can be seen from the

road. This circumstance gave name to the brook here, and the tavern. The

house was built by Charles McKinney, the same person who built the

"Monroe Springs House." He kept tavern here for many years. The house is

a large two-story stone structure. It was subsequently and successively

kept by Robert Shaw, Noble McCormick and William Shaw. This property is

now owned by the heirs of James Dixon, and is not a public house.

Next we come to the "Fayette Springs Hotel," a large stone house built

at an early day by the Hon. Andrew Stewart, who owned the property, and

remained its owner until the day of his death. It was recently sold by

his heirs to Capt. John Messmore, of Uniontown. This house was a

favorite resort for visitors to the Fayette Springs, situate about

three-quarters of a mile distant. In its halcyon days it had its ten-pin

alley, billiard tables, swing, and other appliances of pleasure and

comfort, but they have all passed away, and probably by reason of hard

times, and the abatement of interest in the Springs may never again be

brought into requisition. Here merry parties of young folks from

Uniontown and elsewhere were accustomed to assemble and enjoy a hearty

supper, engage in the dizzy mazes of the dance, and when it was all over

"go home with the girls in the morning." Mahlon Fell and Tom Collins

were the old-time fiddlers, and furnished the music, which in its line

was of superior excellence. They were occasionally reinforced by Jacob

B. Miller, esq., who tendered his services without pecuniary reward, and

in the language of the day, "could make a fiddle talk." Collins is dead.

[S]Fell and Miller are both living. The former has joined the church and

abandoned the fiddle, while the latter still retains his taste and

talent for music, and often entertains his friends in a private manner,

with many of the popular tunes of the olden time. The "Fayette Springs

House" has been kept in turn by Cuthbert Wiggins, John Risler, B. W.

Earl, Samuel Lewis, William Snyder, William Darlington, John Rush, Major

Swearingen, Redding Bunting, Cuthbert Downer, and perhaps others.

[Footnote S: All now dead.]

We next reach "Chalk Hill," so called from the circumstance of white

clay adhering to the shovels of the workmen engaged in digging the

foundation of the road. The tavern house was built here in 1823 by

Jonathan Downer, who was its first host. He was succeeded by Boss Rush,

and he in turn by Springer Downer, Samuel Shipley, William Shipley and

Milford Shipley. [T]John Olwine now owns the property, and keeps tavern

here. It is a two-story frame, with commodious stabling attached. Boss

Rush went from this house to Farmington. Samuel Shipley bought this

property at an Orphans' Court sale, in 1846, for $1,405, and paid for it

in gold. Westley Frost was the sheriff and trustee to sell. Shipley

subsequently became an associate judge. He was more fortunate than his

neighbor and fellow inn keeper, Boss Rush, in belonging to the strong

side. Rush was one of his competitors on the Republican side.

[Footnote T: Now dead.]

Next comes the old tavern stand of James Snyder. Snyder seems to have

been here always, and is here yet. He did vacate a short time for

William Shaw, but not long enough to change the tradition that this is,

and always was, Snyder's. The house looks old and dingy, and no wonder,

for it has withstood the wild dashes of numberless mountain storms. It

is situate at the foot of the eastern slope of Laurel Hill, and on the

head waters of Sandy Creek. The old stable is decaying, and will soon be

gone. The old host, too, is showing the marks of time and age. He has

already passed beyond the age defined by the Psalmist. His three score

and ten are supplemented by well nigh half a score.[U] He is the only

old landmark left along the road, that has not shifted from original

ground, except Natty Brownfield. A few years ago he was elected county

commissioner on the Democratic ticket, but practically without

opposition. He is universally esteemed for his honesty. As a tavern

keeper he enjoyed an excellent reputation, and many a weary traveler has

found consolation and comfort under his hospitable roof. The best wishes

of all his neighbors attend the old gentleman in his declining years,

and heaven's choicest blessings are invoked upon his venerable head.

[Footnote U: Now deceased.]

Near the top of Laurel Hill on the eastern slope, once lived a noted

character named Benjamin Price. His house, a log structure, was built

near the roadside, but below its surface, so that the upper story was

about on a level with the road. He kept a cake shop, was an acting

justice of the peace, and a strict Methodist, and was in the habit of

annoying wagoners and hog drovers by fining them for swearing, and they

in turn annoyed him by throwing billets of wood and disabled hogs down

his chimney. Price is long since dead, and the last vestige of his old

house has disappeared. The stable nearby it remained longer, but it has

gone, too. A few apple trees planted by the hands of the 'Squire, now

encroached upon by the mountain undergrowth, are all that remain to

indicate the spot where the old house stood.

[Illustration: STONE HOUSE, DARLINGTON'S.]

We next reach the "Summit House." This is not a wagon stand, nor

strictly an old tavern, but rather a fashionable and popular summer

resort. It is on the apex of Laurel Hill, and has the advantage of pure

air, and an extensive and charming view of the surrounding and

underlying country. At this point large finger boards were erected,

indicating distances and routes to the Washington Springs, Dulaney's

Cave and Jumonville's Grave, which are landmarks indelibly impressed

upon the memories of surviving wagoners and stage drivers. The property

here belongs to [V]Col. Samuel Evans, a wealthy and well known citizen

of Fayette county. [W]Ephraim McClean kept the house here for many

years, and made it famous by the excellence and style of his

entertainment. His flannel cakes and spring chickens have passed into

history, as unrivalled productions of culinary art and tempters of the

appetite. There is a large spring and bath house here. This has ever

been a favorite resort of parties in pursuit of pleasure. Here the

youth, beauty and fashion of Uniontown were wont to come to while away

an evening in eating, dancing and other diversions. The rooms were

small, but the pleasure was unbounded. Here also the yeomanry of the

county came to make a harvest home, or celebrate an anniversary. The

drive, up and down the mountain, is delightful, and formed no small

share of the pleasure incident to the old time parties at this popular

place of resort.

[Footnote V: Deceased.]

[Footnote W: Deceased.]

Ephraim McClean left this house many years ago and settled in Illinois.

He was succeeded by Henry Clay Rush, who maintained the reputation of

the house during his occupancy, but left it in 1856 to go to Searights.

Brown Hadden came in after Rush, and after Hadden the house was

successively kept by Stephen W. Snyder, John Snyder, William Boyd and

Webb Barnet, the present occupant. Anterior to the erection of the

present buildings, and many years ago, one Molly Calhoun kept a small

cake shop at this point, and displayed upon her sign-board the following

quaint legend:

"Out of this rock, runs water clear,

'Tis soon changed into good beer,

Stop, traveler, stop, if you see fit,

And quench your thirst for a fippennybit."

About a mile down the western slope of Laurel Hill we come to the famous

watering trough. Here William Downard lived for many years in a stone

house built against the hillside. He did not keep a tavern, for he had

no ground for teams to stand upon, and no stabling that was accessible,

but he always maintained the big water-trough in good condition _pro

bono publico_, and it would be almost impossible for big teams to make

the ascent of Laurel Hill, in hot weather without water. Downard was

eccentric and cross, and begrudged the use of his water to persons he

did not like, although the supply was inexhaustible. He was born near

Uniontown of English parentage, a Federalist in politics, and a skeptic

in religion. He was endowed with strong sense, and could argue with

considerable force. He has been dead many years.

A little over a mile below the big water trough the romantic spot known

as the "Turkey's Nest" is reached. The road crosses a small stream here,

which, owing to the peculiar formation of the ground, required the

erection of a bridge, supported on the south side by an immense stone

wall. This is one of the largest stone structures on the road, and is in

a good state of preservation. It is a fine specimen of workmanship, and

a grand monument to the skill of the old time stonemasons. This locality

has always been invested with much interest, and admired by the lovers

of picturesque beauty. Until recently it wore its primitive colorings.

Now it is changed. Its primitive appearance has disappeared before the

advancing forces of progress and improvement. The native trees have been

cut down and a little hamlet occupies their places with attendant

stables, cribs, coops and other out-houses. The old massive curved stone

wall remains, but all about it so changed in appearance that the spot is

scarcely recognized as the "Turkey's Nest." It is the popular belief

that this locality derived its name from the discovery here of a wild

turkey's nest, by workmen engaged on the original construction of the

road.

An old long log house, near the foot of the hill, was called the "Goat

Pen," and why is not accurately known, but this name it bore from one

end of the road to the other.

We now reach the ancient and celebrated village of Monroe, a name it

took in honor of the President hereinbefore mentioned. Approached from

the east, the first old tavern and the first house in the place is the

"Deford House," in the olden time and by old people called the General

Wayne House. It appears that at an early day General Wayne had occasion

to pass this way, and tarried over night with John Deford, who kept

tavern in a small log house a short distance in the rear of the present

building. Deford at this time was contemplating the erection of a new

and more imposing edifice, and applied to his distinguished guest for a

plan. It was furnished, and the present stone structure is the outcome

of it, which shows plainly enough that General Wayne was a much better

soldier than architect. Deford kept tavern here for a long time, and was

succeeded first by Henry Fisher and next by Matthias Fry. Samuel Magie

is now the owner of the property, and its career as a tavern is ended.

A frame house a short distance below and on the opposite side of the

street from the Deford House was once kept by James Dennison, who had a

considerable trade. It was afterward kept by Matthias Fry, but business

then had greatly decreased. Fry, in his prime, was one of the best men

on the road, and a great favorite among the wagoners. He had been a

wagoner himself for many years, and was at one time general agent for a

transportation line from Baltimore to Wheeling, which made him the

disburser of large sums of money, and he discharged his office with

scrupulous fidelity. He was a large, fine looking man, stoutly built,

and possessing great physical power. Although amiable and good natured,

he was occasionally drawn into a fight, and on one occasion, at

Petersburg, in Somerset county, Pennsylvania, whipped three reputed

bullies, one after another, who entered his house when he lived there,

and proposed to "clean him out," as evidence of their prowess. He died a

few years ago in Monroe, where his widow is still living.[X]

[Footnote X: Now dead.]

[Illustration: JAMES SNYDER.]

The next old tavern in Monroe is the stone house built by Andrew

McMasters, and subsequently owned and kept for many years by German D.

Hair. He was the only man that ever kept this house, and he died in it a

few years ago, aged about eighty years. He was a native of Chester

county, Pennsylvania, and came to the vicinity of Uniontown about the

time the road was made. He was a stonemason by trade, and worked on many

of the bridges of the road, including the eastern and western bridges at

Uniontown.

Next we come to the "Shipley House." Like all the tavern houses in

Monroe, and nearly all the private houses, this is a stone building, and

is two stories high. It was erected by E. W. Clement, and good

workmanship displayed in its construction. It was kept awhile by

Clement, and after him at different times by John Wallace, Archibald

Skiles, Samuel Shipley, Redding Bunting, and Lindsey Messmore.

Next is the "Monroe House," one of the oldest in the place. It was built

by Andrew McMasters, and subsequently and successively kept by E.W.

Clement, Thomas Acklin, James Shafer, A. Skiles, John Worthington, M.

Fry, and Calvin Springer. This was a popular house in the golden era of

the road, and did an extensive business. Monroe was a thriving village

when the pike flourished, and the center of fun and frolic. It began to

decline when the trade left the road, but is now reviving and wearing an

air of prosperity by reason of the coal developments in the vicinity.

On the hill above Monroe stands an old two-story brick house, fast

sinking into decay, which was once a well known and popular tavern

stand. It was owned and kept by William Morris. He put up an imposing

sign, inscribed on the west side with the words, "Welcome from the

West," and on the east side the words, "Welcome from the East." This was

no false lure, and travelers from the east and west crowded into the old

house to enjoy its good cheer. Alonzo L. Little, for many years editor

and proprietor of the _Genius of Liberty_, was a son-in-law of William

Morris, and he had a son (Luther) who settled in Iowa and was elected

State Treasurer there.

Harry Gilbert once kept a tavern in the house where Charles Livingston

now has a grocery, at the east end of Uniontown, and in later years it

was kept by M. Fry and J. Allen Messmore.

Many years ago the Widow Sands kept tavern in the frame house at the

point where the Connellsville and Cool Spring Furnace roads lead off

from the pike.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Uniontown--The Town as it

Appeared to Gen. Douglass in 1784--Its Subsequent Growth and

Improvement--The First Tavern--Other Early Taverns--An Old Chief

Justice and an Old Landlady wrangle over a Roasted Pig--Anecdote of

George Manypenny and President Jefferson--The Swan, The McClelland,

The Seaton, The National, The Clinton, The Moran, The Mahaney._

[Illustration: GEN. EPHRAIM DOUGLASS.]

At the east end of Uniontown the road crosses Redstone creek, over a

massive and extensive stone bridge, one of the best and most expensive

samples of masonry on the whole line, built by Kinkead, Beck and Evans

in 1818. Gen. Ephraim Douglass, the first prothonotary of Fayette

county, Pennsylvania, in a letter to Gen. James Irvine, in 1784,

describes Uniontown in the following vigorous and graphic style:

"_My Dear General_--If my promise were not engaged to write to you,

my inclinations are sufficiently so to embrace with alacrity any

opportunity of expressing the gratitude so justly due to your

valuable friendship, of declaring the friendship of mine. This

Uniontown is the most obscure spot on the face of the globe. I have

been here seven or eight weeks, without one opportunity of writing

to the land of the living, and though considerably south of you, so

cold that a person not knowing the latitude, would conclude we were

placed near one of the poles. Pray have you had a severe winter

below? We have been frozen up here for more than a month past, but

a great many of us having been bred in another State, the eating of

hominy is as natural to us as the drinking of whisky in the

morning. The town and its appurtenances consist of our president

and a lovely little family, a court house and school house in one,

a mill and consequently a miller, four taverns, three smith shops,

five retail shops, two tan yards, one of them only occupied, one

saddler's shop, two hatter's shops, one mason, one cake woman (we

had two, but one of them having committed a petit larceny is upon

banishment), two widows and some reputed maids, to which may be

added a distillery. The upper part of this edifice is the

habitation at will of your humble servant, who, beside the smoke of

his own chimney, which is intolerable enough, is fumigated by that

of two stills below, exclusive of the other effluvia that arises

from the dirty vessels in which they prepare the materials for the

stills. The upper floor of my parlor, which is also my chamber

and office, is laid with loose clap-boards, or puncheons, and the

gable ends entirely open; and yet this is the best place in my

power to procure, till the weather will permit me to build, and

even this I am subject to be turned out of the moment the owner,

who is at Kentuck, and hourly expected, returns. I can say little

of the country in general, but that it is very poor in everything

but its soil, which is excellent, and that part contiguous to the

town is really beautiful, being level and prettily situate,

accommodated with good water, and excellent meadow ground. But

money we have not, nor any practicable way of making it. How taxes

are collected, debts paid, or fees discharged, I know not; and yet

the good people appear willing enough to run in debt and go to law.

I shall be able to give you a better account of this hereafter.

Col. McClean received me with a degree of generous friendship, that

does honor to the goodness of his heart, and continues to show

every mark of satisfaction at my appointment. He is determined to

act under the commission sent him by council, and though the fees

would, had he declined it, have been a considerable addition to my

profits, I cannot say that I regret his keeping them. He has a

numerous small family, and though of an ample fortune in lands, has

no cash at command. The general curse of the country, disunion,

rages in this little mud hole with as much fury, as if they had

each pursuits of the utmost importance, and the most opposed to

each other, when in truth, they have no pursuits at all that

deserve the name, except that of obtaining food and whisky, for

raiment they scarcely use any. The commissioners--trustees, I

should say--having fixed on a spot in one end of the town for the

public buildings, which was by far the most proper, in every point

of view, exclusive of the saving of expense, the other end took the

alarm and charged them with partiality, and have been ever since

uttering their complaints. And at the late election for justices,

two having been carried in this end of the town, and none in the

other, has made them quite outrageous. This trash is not worth

troubling you with, therefore I beg your pardon, and am with

unfeigned esteem, dear general, your very humble servant.

"EPHRAIM DOUGLASS."

That was a long time ago, and a great change has come over the face of

things. Gen. Douglass lived to see Uniontown arise from the mud hole and

become a flourishing county seat. His mortal remains lie buried within

the sound of the court house bell, and could he come forth now, and see

Uniontown, he would be startled. Instead of a mud hole, he would see

finely paved streets, studded with handsome buildings, lighted by

electricity, enlivened by electric cars, telegraphs, telephones and

railroads, and where the old distilleries stood, beautiful and staunch

church edifices with spires pointing to the skies, and in fact he would

behold all the evidences of a flourishing city, inhabited by active,

intelligent and Christian people.

The first tavern in Uniontown was kept by John Collins in 1781. It was a

log house on the north side of the main street, the site of which is now

covered by "Commercial Row." This old house remained standing until

1839, when it was torn down by its owner of that date. Isaac Beeson, who

erected the buildings thereafter known as "Commercial Row." John Collins

kept this old tavern down to the year 1799. It was subsequently kept at

different times by Samuel Salter, Cuthbert Wiggins, William Salter, John

Hoge and Andrew Byers. William Salter was an old sheriff. Byers went

from this house to the old Walker House, now the "Central," and

afterward to the "Clinton House."

Jonathan Rowland, Daniel Culp and Matthew Campbell each kept a tavern in

Uniontown as early as 1783. The location of Rowland's tavern is not

accurately known, but the best evidence available, points to the lot now

owned by Daniel Downer, esq., and occupied by law offices, near the

court house, as the site. Jonathan Rowland subsequently became a justice

of the peace, and a leader in public affairs. Culp's old tavern was a

log house on the lot now owned and occupied by Justice Willson, corner

of Main street and Gallatin avenue. Matthew Campbell's old tavern, stood

on the western side of the lot now covered by the Moran House, formerly

and for many years known as the "Fulton."

Colin Campbell as early as 1785 kept a tavern in a house that stood on

the lot now covered by the Bryan building, on Main street, near the

center of the town. This old tavern was subsequently owned and presided

over by Samuel Salter, father of William Salter, the old sheriff.

Margaret Allen kept a tavern in the east end of town, a little above and

opposite the Madison College buildings, in the year 1788, and for some

time thereafter. She died in 1810, at the age of ninety-one years.

Dr. Robert McClure opened a tavern in December, 1792, a short distance

west of the court house, on the south side of the street, and kept it

down to the year 1813. It does not appear that any other person kept

this house. It was in close proximity to the "Jolly Irishman," hereafter

mentioned.

Thomas Collins, son of John Collins, before mentioned, kept a tavern as

early as 1794 in an old house on the lot, corner of Morgantown and Main

streets, now occupied by the Tremont buildings. Thomas Collins was

sheriff of Fayette county from 1796 to 1799, and commanded a company of

soldiers from Uniontown and vicinity in the war of 1812, locally called

the "Madison Rowdies." A number of his descendants are still living in

the neighborhood of Uniontown.

Previous to the opening of the present century the veteran of Laurel

Hill, John Slack, before mentioned, kept a tavern in the old Shelcut

house, on the south side of Main street, opposite the old Gregg house,

and afterward kept the "Spread Eagle," the exact location of which is

involved in doubt, but the best information available assigns it to the

Weniger corner, opposite the old Walker house, hereinafter mentioned.

William Downard, subsequently proprietor of the big water-trough house

on Laurel Hill, kept tavern in the Shelcut house from 1801 until

probably 1808, when he retired to the pine covered slope of Laurel Hill,

where he spent the remainder of his life. He served as County

Commissioner from 1802 to 1805.

The Gregg house, situate on the north side of Main street, on the lot

now covered by the residence of Dr. J. B. Ewing, was in existence as a

tavern as early as 1798, and continued as late as 1865. It was a small

house of brick and frame united, but had a large patronage. In early

times travelers and other guests at taverns did not desire or expect

separate rooms, and hence a small tavern like the Gregg house could

accommodate as many persons as the more pretentious hotel of the present

day; and at wagon stands the bar room, as before stated, was the only

bed chamber for wagoners. James Gregg was the first proprietor of the

Gregg house, and was succeeded by his widow, Nancy Gregg, in 1810. After

her time it was kept in turn by William Medkirk, Matthew Allen, Simeon

Houser, Amos Howell, Philip D. Stentz, and Thomas Moxley. James Gregg,

the old proprietor of this house, was the father-in-law of the late Hon.

Daniel Sturgeon, who was a United States Senator in the days of Clay,

Webster and Calhoun.

In 1779, and for a number of years thereafter, Pierson Sayers kept a

tavern in the house now occupied by Mrs. Ruby, on the north side of Main

street, a short distance west of the court house. While keeping this

house Sayers was elected Sheriff, and turned over his tavern to Jacob

Harbaugh, who conducted it for three years, when, singularly enough, he

was elected to succeed Sayers as Sheriff. Ellis Baily, the grandfather

of Mrs. Ruby, bought this property from Pierson Sayers, and

subsequently, and for many years, it was the private residence of the

late Hon. John Dawson.

James Piper kept the "Jolly Irishman" as early as 1801. This bustling

old tavern was located on Main street, opposite the residence of the

late Hon. Daniel Kaine. James Piper, a son of the old proprietor, was a

prominent and influential citizen of the town and county for many years.

He was a member of the bar, a Justice of the Peace, Register of Wills,

and Recorder of Deeds. He left Uniontown about 1850, went west, and died

soon after.

William Merriman kept a tavern near Margaret Allen's old stand as early

as 1802. But little is known at this date of Merriman or his old tavern.

Its existence was brief and its patronage limited.

At and before the beginning of the present century Samuel Salter kept a

tavern in an old log and frame house that stood on the lot now occupied

by the handsome residence of the Hon. John K. Ewing. Chief Justice

Thomas McKean "put up" at this old tavern on his visits to Uniontown to

hold the courts of Fayette county, and was frequently regaled with roast

pig. The pig was well prepared, cooked and dressed, and in all respects

savory, but its frequent appearance on the table moved the old Chief

Justice to believe that he was getting "too much of a good thing," and

accordingly one day, in peremptory terms, he commanded the dining room

girl to remove the offensive dish, which she did with trembling hands.

This of course raised a storm in the old hostelry. Mrs. Salter became

indignant, and, bringing back the pig, replaced it on the table, at the

same time addressing the Judge thus: "You are Chief Justice and run the

court; I am chief cook and run this dining room. That pig must stay,"

and it did. Upon the withdrawal of Salter, in the year 1811, this old

tavern came under the management and control of Jacob Harbaugh, the old

Sheriff before mentioned. After Harbaugh's time it was kept by George

Ewing down to a period as late probably as 1830. Hugh Espey, a well

remembered old County Treasurer, and straightgoing Presbyterian elder,

married a daughter of George Ewing.

Opposite the old Gregg house, and adjoining the Shelcut house, George

Manypenny kept a tavern as early as the year 1814, and probably before

that date. This was a leading tavern of the town, subsequently conducted

by Benjamin Miller, and after him by Harry Gilbert. One of the old stage

lines stopped at this house. George Manypenny, the old proprietor, was

the father of the late Hon. George W. Manypenny, who was for many years

a prominent and popular political leader and officeholder of the State

of Ohio. He was born in Uniontown, and most likely in his father's old

tavern. George Manypenny, sr., is described by those who remember him as

a vigorous, pushing and witty Irishman. He called once to see President

Jefferson, and was invited by His Excellency to take a glass of wine

with him, which he did without hesitancy, and to obtain a second glass,

this story is told of him: As he was about to withdraw from the

executive mansion he remarked to Mr. Jefferson that he was going home,

and would tell his friends that he had the honor of taking two glasses

with the President of the United States, and hoped His Excellency would

not let him go home with a lie in his mouth. As the story goes, the old

President saw the point of the ingenious suggestion, and again brought

forward the wine.

The Walker house, corner of Broadway and Main streets, was kept as a

tavern as early as 1816 by Zadoc Walker, who owned the property. General

LaFayette was entertained at this house in 1825, and Santa Anna, the

renowned Mexican warrior, stopped over night in it on his way to

Washington City, about sixty years ago. This house has been kept at

different times since by Andrew Byers, William Byers, Redding Bunting,

and others. When Bunting kept it, it was called the "United States." It

has recently been enlarged and improved, and its name changed to the

"Central." Its first host under the new name was James I. Feather, who

subsequently became associated with William A. McHugh. Its present

lessees and managers are Messrs. Frock and Mitchell. The Spottsylvania

house, for many years conducted prosperously by John Manaway, and

afterward, until it closed, by Lloyd Mahaney, adjoined the Walker house

on the west, and used a number of rooms belonging to that old hostelry.

[Illustration: AARON WYATT.]

The McCleary house ranked high as an old-time inn or tavern. It is

situate on the corner of Main and Arch streets, a substantial brick

building, recently enlarged, embellished and improved, and at present

catering to the public under the historic name of "Brunswick," and

conducted by Russell W. Beall, a gentleman admirably equipped for the

business. Ewing McCleary owned and kept this old tavern as early as the

year 1819, and many years thereafter. Upon his death, which occurred in

this house, it was continued as a tavern under the management of his

widow, until she became the wife of William Hart, when he took charge of

it and kept it down to the year 1840, or thereabout, when he fell into

disgrace and retired under a storm of popular reprobation. This house

was a favorite stopping place of General Jackson. On an occasion a

committee of citizens met Jackson on the road near town and tendered him

the freedom of the municipality. Among other things made known to him by

the committee, he was informed that quarters had been provided for his

accommodation at the Walker House. He replied that he "always stopped at

Hart's." "But," rejoined the chairman of the committee, "Hart is a Whig,

and his tavern a Whig house." The old warrior answered back by saying

that "Hart always treated him well, and he would go to his house," and

to Hart's he went, reluctantly escorted by the Democratic committee.

After Hart's precipitate withdrawal from this old house, it was leased

by S. B. Hays, subsequently of the Mansion and other old taverns in

Washington, Pennsylvania. Hays conducted it for a brief period when it

went into the possession of Joshua Marsh, who remained in charge not

longer than a year or two, and left it to take charge of the National

House. Its next occupant was the veteran Redding Bunting. After Bunting

came Aaron Stone, then William Beatty, and after him William Gans. After

Gans, Peter Uriah Hook was installed as landlord, who named the house

"The Eagle," and remained in charge a number of years. Hook was an

eccentric man, given to redundancy of speech, a merchant, auctioneer,

and for two years a member of the lower branch of the State legislature.

He died in Uniontown, a number of years ago, but will not soon be

forgotten. Aaron Wyatt succeeded Hook, and kept the house until his

death. His widow and son James succeeded to the management, and James

dying in the house, it passed to the hands of his widow, Mrs. Kate

Wyatt, and from her to Russell W. Beall, the present occupant.

The before-mentioned old taverns were of the town, rather than of the

road. Most of them were in existence and doing business before the road

was made. The remaining old taverns of Uniontown, hereafter mentioned,

were essentially taverns of the National Road, and derived their

principal patronage from it.

The Swan, Nathaniel Brownfield proprietor, is an old, long frame

building, at the west end of town, supplemented some years after it

commenced business, by a brick addition to the eastern end. Thomas

Brownfield, father of Nathaniel, the present proprietor, and grandfather

on the maternal side, of the author of this volume, kept this old tavern

as early as 1805, and down to the year 1829. When the National Road was

opened for business, this house became a wagon stand, and continued such

until the last crack of a Battelly White whip was heard on the road. It

was provided with two commodious wagon yards, one at the front, on the

roadside opposite the house, and the other between the house and the

large stable in the rear. With the exception of one year that this old

tavern was kept by William Cox, Nathaniel Brownfield, who was born under

its roof, has kept it, uninterruptedly, from the date of his father's

death, and "holds the fort" to this day, "with none to molest or make

him afraid." Upwards of eighty, and in vigorous health, he has witnessed

and participated in the exciting scenes of the road from the beginning

to the end thereof. At an early period he became the owner of a farm

consisting of one hundred acres adjacent to town, which he managed

advantageously in connection with his tavern, and within the past year

sold for the sum of one thousand and five dollars per acre, retaining

his old tavern stand, to which he is attached by so many memories. His

wife and good helpmate survives with him, and together they occupy the

old tavern and recount with varied emotions the stirring scenes of the

eventful past.

The McClelland House, as has been elsewhere stated, is one of the best

known old taverns on the National Road. It is located on the north side

of the Main street, and in the western end of town. As early as 1795,

Richard Weaver kept a tavern in a wooden building on the lot now covered

by the McClelland House, and was succeeded by William McClelland.

William McClelland was keeping this old tavern in 1802, and owned the

lot on which it stood at that date in fee simple. After the death of

William McClelland his son, Alfred, came into possession, tore down the

old building, and erected in its stead the present brick building, known

always thereafter as the McClelland House. This house was the

headquarters of the Good Intent line of stages, from the time it was put

on the road until it was withdrawn at the end of the road's career as a

national highway. Alfred McClelland presided over this house and

controlled it from the date of its erection until he died, with the

exception of brief intervals mentioned below. He was a large, raw-boned

man, of agreeable, though somewhat awkward manners, and had complete

knowledge of the mysterious art of keeping a tavern. He had for his main

clerk and bar-keeper, Macon W. Rine, a confidential and loyal friend,

well remembered by the older citizens of Uniontown, as a thoroughly

competent man for his employment. Alfred McClelland died on the 8th of

September, 1862. In the intervals before mentioned, the McClelland House

was kept for a short time previous to 1840 by S. B. Hays, before he

took control of the old McCleary House. Thereafter, at different times,

the house was kept by Jerry Colflesh, Lewis D. Beall, William and Thomas

Swan, J. W. Kissinger, Calvin Springer, William Wyatt, Kim Frey, Russell

Frey, Frey and Swan, Joseph C. Stacy and Charles H. Rush, in the order

named. It is at present conducted, as elsewhere stated, by Mrs. Sarah E.

McClelland, widow of the old proprietor, and retains all its ancient

prestige, under her admirable management.

[Illustration: THE BROWNFIELD HOUSE.]

The Seaton House was a familiar hostelry in the olden time. It was

founded by James C. Seaton in the year 1820, or thereabout. It is

located on the northeast corner of Main and Arch streets, diagonally

opposite the old McCleary House, and is now known as the West End Hotel.

Mr. Seaton, the old proprietor, came to Uniontown from Virginia, and

died in this old house many years ago. The house was built in sections

at different times until it reached its present large proportions.

During its occupancy by Mr. Seaton it was a wagon stand of the National

Road, and extensively patronized. It was provided with ample grounds for

wagons and teams to stand on, which are now covered by the Lingo block

and other buildings in the vicinity. Mr. Seaton had three sons: Hiram,

James, and John. Hiram was the old toll collector before mentioned, and

James was a pike boy in a general way. He drove stage occasionally, and

also the express; led horses from station to station on the road, and

made himself useful in many other ways. He died at his father's old

tavern in the meridian of the bright era of the road, and before he had

reached middle age. John Seaton, the other son, went west, and died

recently in Nebraska. Daniel Collier, before mentioned as keeper of the

old tavern at Mount Augusta, was a son-in-law of James C. Seaton; and

Charles H. Seaton, the well known insurance agent of Uniontown, is a

great-grandson of the old proprietor, and others of his descendants are

still living in Uniontown and vicinity. After Mr. Seaton's death this

old tavern was continued a number of years by his widow, and growing old

she leased it to James Swan, who conducted it for a brief period, Mrs.

Seaton boarding with him in the house. Mr. Swan was succeeded by Philip

D. Stentz, and he in turn by J. W. Kissinger, Kim Frey, David G. Sperry,

John Messmore and Henry Jennings. The late James T. Redburn bought the

property from the Seaton heirs and sold it to John Messmore, who in turn

sold it to Henry Jennings. It is now owned and kept by George Titlow,

under the name of the West End Hotel, as before stated, well conducted

and well patronized.

The old National House is located on the northwest corner of Morgantown

and Fayette streets. It was built for a private residence by the late

Hon. Thomas Irwin, and occupied by him as such until he was appointed

Judge of the United States District Court for the Western district of

Pennsylvania, when he moved to Pittsburg. Judge Irwin sold the property

to the celebrated Dr. John F. Braddee, of mail robbing notoriety, and he

occupied it during the period covered by his depredations upon the mail

bags. Its situation for such operations was convenient, as it adjoined

the old Stockton stage yard hereinbefore described. After Braddee's

conviction L. W. Stockton acquired title to the property, and

subsequently sold and conveyed it to Joshua Marsh, who opened it as a

tavern. It was the headquarters of the Stockton line of stages from the

time it was opened until all stage lines were withdrawn from the road.

James K. Polk, with his family and traveling companions, stopped over

night at The National when on his way to the capital to be inaugurated

President, in the spring of 1845. A large number of citizens assembled

on the occasion to meet the coming President, and were addressed by him

from the high steps in front of the house. The National was a well kept

house. Situate a distance from the main street, it was comparatively

exempt from the ordinary street noises, and conducted in a quiet manner,

disturbed only by the arrival and departure of the stage coaches. Mr.

Marsh, its old proprietor, was a man of retiring disposition, gentle

manners, and feeble health. He visited Washington when Mr. Buchanan was

inaugurated President, and was one of the unfortunates who were poisoned

on that occasion at the National Hotel of that place. He returned home,

but never fully recovered from the effects of the poison, and died in

Uniontown. Among others who kept the National were George Evans and Col.

Samuel Elder. The latter is still living, a hale octogenarian, at

Ligonier Westmoreland county, Pa.

The Clinton House, which stood on a lot adjoining the old Court House,

was a popular house throughout its whole career. It was demolished in

1890 by condemnation proceedings, and the lot on which it stood taken by

the county for the use of the new Court House. It was erected in 1835 by

the late Hon. Andrew Stewart, who occupied it as a private residence and

kept his law office in it for a number of years. It was first kept as a

tavern by Andrew Byers, and after him, from time to time, until its

demolition, by Stephen W. Snyder, whose wife was a Risler, Zadoc

Cracraft, Isaac Kerr, Jesse B. Gardner, John Bierer, Calvin Springer,

Springer & Renshaw, Bernard Winslow, William Springer, Joseph Wright, J.

R. Thornton, and James I. Feather. General Taylor stopped over night at

the Clinton House in 1849, _en route_ to Washington to assume the office

of President of the United States. It was kept at that time by Andrew

Byers.

[Illustration: COL. SAMUEL ELDER.]

The Moran House is the old Fulton House, opposite the Court House, on

Elbow or Main street. Like the old Seaton House, the Fulton was built in

sections, some of them by Seth Howell and others by his predecessors.

Seth Howell kept this house a long time. He was called "Flinger,"

because he had a habit of flinging disorderly persons out of the house,

as he termed the process of ejecting. Howell was succeeded by Calvin

Springer, and he by William Thorndell, who became the owner of the

property. David Mahaney came in after Thorndell, Michael Carter after

Mahaney, and it next passed to the hands of James Moran, its present

occupant and owner, who gave it the name of the Moran House. This old

tavern was always well patronized, and continues to be under its present

proprietor, who has added many improvements, and the house is in better

shape now than at any time heretofore.

The name Mahaney has long been identified with the National Road. The

Mahaney House was built and is conducted by Lloyd Mahaney, a son of

David, elsewhere mentioned. It is the newest hotel in Uniontown, and the

finest in architectural display. It is a hotel, having come into

existence after the old inns and taverns had been relegated to the dead

past. It is located on a lot formerly owned and occupied by George

Ebbert, adjoining the present National Bank of Fayette County on the

east, and is on the south side of Main street. It is well managed and

does a large business, and is likewise one of the best of the many

recent improvements in Uniontown, and reflects credit on its

proprietor.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Uniontown to

Searights--Anecdote of John Slack--Slack at Night and Tight in the

Morning--Old Roads--Parting Tribute to the Old Taverns of the

Mountains--Henry Clay Extols the Virtue of Buckwheat Cakes--Boss

Rush and his Poker--Moxleys--The Old Hunter House--Searights--The

Grays and the Gray Meeting--Jackson Men and Adams Men Meet and

Count Noses--Old Political Leaders--Barnacles of the Road._

The tavern keepers on the "old road," as it is called, were as earnestly

opposed to the building of the National Road, as those on the latter

were to the building of the railroad, and for like reasons. The

following anecdote serves as an illustration: John Slack kept a tavern

for many years at the summit of Laurel Hill on the old road, in a house

near the Washington Springs. Before the National Road was opened said

Slack, in a complaining manner, "Wagons coming up Laurel Hill would

stick in the mud a mile or so below my house, when the drivers would

unhitch, leave their wagons in the mud, and bring their teams to my

house and stay with me all night. In the morning they would return to

their stranded wagons, dig and haul them out, and get back to my house

and stay with me another night. Thus counting the wagons going east and

west, I got four night's bills from the same set of wagoners." "Now,"

concluded Slack (since the completion of the National Road), with

indignation, "the wagoners whiff by without stopping." Old wagoners were

accustomed to say of Slack that he was "Slack at night and tight in the

morning," meaning that he was clever and cheerful when they "put up"

with him in the evening, and close and exacting in the morning when

bills were payable.

The old road referred to was the Braddock road, which from the summit of

Laurel Hill, turned northwardly, as before stated, to Gists (Mt.

Braddock), Stewart's Crossing (Connellsville), Braddock's Field and Fort

Pitt (Pittsburg).

[Illustration: THE SEARIGHT HOUSE.]

An old road between Uniontown and Brownsville was laid out in 1774 by

viewers appointed by the court of Westmoreland county, Pennsylvania,

before Fayette county was established, upon a petition signed mainly by

inhabitants of Brownsville and vicinity, who complained that "they had

to carry their corn twenty miles to the mill of Henry Beeson at

Uniontown." The distance of twenty miles complained of was by way of the

old road known as "Burd's," from the mouth of Redstone creek to

Gists, where it intersected Braddock's road. The road between Uniontown

and Brownsville, above mentioned, was carried east of Uniontown, to

intersect the Braddock road, which it did, near Slack's tavern. The line

of the National Road closely follows that of the old road between

Uniontown and Brownsville. Marks of the old road are plainly visible to

this day, and some of the old buildings, which were erected along its

line, are still standing, notably the dwelling of Thomas B. Graham,

esq., three miles west of Uniontown, which was an old tavern. This old

house was the first residence of the Hon. Andrew Stewart after his

marriage, and his oldest son, David Shriver, was born in it.

John Slack, the old tavern keeper before mentioned, was the father of

Mrs. McClean, wife of Ephraim McClean, who for many years kept the

Cottage tavern on the summit of Laurel Hill, and no doubt the fame of

this house under the management of the McCleans is attributable in great

measure to the early training of Mrs. McClean in her father's old

tavern, where she was reared.

Heretofore in these pages the reader has been introduced to old taverns

and old tavern keepers on the mountain division of the road, a long

division covering two hundred miles, including the intervening glades

and valleys. Surprise is often expressed that there were so many good

taverns in the mountains, remote from fertile fields and needed markets.

That they were equal to the best on the road is conceded; and that the

old taverns of the National Road have never been surpassed for bounteous

entertainment and good cheer, is likewise conceded; in fact, has never

been disputed. It may seem a trifling thing to be written down in

serious history, that the old taverns of the mountains excelled all

others in the matter of serving buckwheat cakes; but it is germane and

true. To relieve this statement from the imputation of being a trifling

one, it may be added that there are men and women still living on the

line of the National Road who often heard the great statesman, orator

and patriot, Henry Clay, praising the good qualities of the buckwheat

cakes furnished by the old mountain taverns with as much fervor and more

enthusiasm than he ever exhibited in commending his favorite measure,

the Protective Tariff. And, as a matter of fact, it might be stated in

this connection, that the making of buckwheat cakes is essentially a

home industry, not, however, of the infantile order, and while it may

not need protection, is certainly deserving of encouragement. Another

memorable feature of the mountain taverns was the immense fires kept

constantly burning in the old bar rooms during the old-time winters. In

many instances the grates were seven feet in length, with corresponding

width and depth, and would contain an ordinary wagon load of coal; and

when the fires were stirred up in these immense grates, and set to

roaring, the jolly old wagoners occupying the bar rooms paid little heed

to the eagerness of the howling mountain weather. The old landlord of

the mountains took special pride in keeping up his bar room fire. He

kept a poker from six to eight feet long, and would not allow it to be

used by any one but himself. Boss Rush, not inaptly termed "the prince

of landlords," was so careful and punctilious about the management of

his bar room fire that he kept his big poker under lock and key, so that

no one could use it but himself, always using it at the right time, and

keeping up a uniform and proper temperature for the comfort of his

guests. With this parting tribute to the memory of the old taverns and

tavern keepers of the mountains, the attention of the reader is now

invited to those on the line of the road through the rich valleys of the

tributaries of the Ohio. Monroe and Uniontown, and the intervening space

of two miles between these points, are covered in a previous chapter.

Three miles west of Uniontown is an old tavern stand known in late years

as the Moxley House. It is a long log and frame building, situate on the

south side of the road, with a porch extending along its entire

frontage. This house was first kept as a tavern by Bazil Wiggins, an

uncle of Harrison Wiggins, the old fox hunter before mentioned, next by

John Gray, grandfather of the old and popular conductor from Uniontown

to Pittsburg on the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, now and for many years

deceased. Its next occupant, and from 1836 to 1838, was William Cox, a

brother-in-law of E. W. Clement, the famous swearer. In 1838 the

property was purchased by Thomas Moxley, who went into possession and

continued it as a tavern stand down to the year 1863, when Henry Clay

Rush bought it and occupied it until the year 1865, when he sold it to

Edmund Leonard, its present occupant. When Moxley took charge of this

old tavern he gave it the name of "The Half-way House," for the reason

that its location is about midway between Cumberland and Wheeling. It

was always a well conducted tavern, and did a large business, mainly in

the line of wagon custom.

Less than a mile west of the old Moxley House, on the south side, and

back a few yards from the road, is a fine brick building, which, during

a portion of the prosperous era of the road, was a well known and

popular tavern stand. The house was built by Robert Hunter, who occupied

it for several years, but did not seem inclined to court patronage, and,

as a consequence, did not do much business. He leased the house to

William Darlington, and moved to Ohio. Darlington, as before stated, had

been an old wagoner, was a man of amiable temper, and did a large

business at this house. He remained in it until the year 1848, when he

moved to the mountain and took charge of the Stone House, then known as

the Fayette Springs House, now Dean's. There he remained until he became

the occupant of the Mansion House on the estate of the late Col. Samuel

Evans, near Uniontown, where he died. When Darlington vacated the old

Hunter House it was turned over to Peter Colley, whose father, Abel

Colley, had previously bought it from Hunter. Peter Colley kept the

house a number of years, and died in possession. He was a man of quiet

deportment, attentive to strangers and travelers, and enjoyed an

extensive line of custom, until the termination of the road's high

career. The old tavern is now the private residence of A. A. Taggart,

son-in-law of Peter Colley, proprietor of one of the planing mills of

Uniontown, and a successful contractor and builder.

[Illustration: JOSEPH GRAY.]

Next, two miles further west, is Searights. Here is the old half-way

house between Uniontown and Brownsville, a large stone building on the

north side of the road, at the crossing of the great drovers' road of

other days leading from the Flats of Grave Creek, Virginia, to Bedford,

Pennsylvania. The large stables connected with this house, on the

opposite side of the road, are still standing, and in a good state of

preservation. In the olden time, in addition to the ordinary travel on

the road, sleighing and other parties from Uniontown and Brownsville

were accustomed to go to this old tavern for a night's dancing, and the

attending festivities. This is also the battleground of the memorable

"Gray Meeting" in 1828, where the opposing hosts between Jackson and

Adams went into an open field and measured strength by "counting off,"

the Jacksonians outnumbering their adversaries by a decided

preponderance, greatly to the mortification of the weaker column. This

meeting was called the "Gray meeting," because the tavern there was then

kept by John Gray, formerly of the Moxley House, before mentioned. The

leaders on the occasion of this trial of strength were as follows: On

the Jackson side, Gen. Henry W. Beeson, Col. Ben Brownfield, John

Fuller, David Gilmore, Larkin S. Dearth. Alexander Johnson, Provance

McCormick, William F. Coplan, Henry J. Rigdon, William Hatfield and

William Searight. On the Adams side: Andrew Stewart, John Dawson, John

M. Austin, Israel Miller, E. P. Oliphant, Chads Chalfant, Stokely

Conwell, Levi Springer, Dennis Springer, and William Colvin. Prior to

1840 many of the Democratic county meetings and conventions were held at

Searights. Before the era of railroads it was a central point for

Uniontown, Connellsville and Brownsville. A large water-trough was

always maintained at this old tavern, where teams attached to all kinds

of wagons, coaches and other vehicles, as well as horses and mules led

in droves, were halted for refreshment. At times relays of stage horses

for extra occasions were stationed here, and it was always a relay for

the line teams moving merchandise. An old sign-board was displayed at

the front of the house for many years, bearing in large gilt letters the

legend SEARIGHTS. The old tavern at Searights was built by Josiah Frost,

about the time the National Road was constructed, and in the year 1821

William Searight acquired it by purchase from Frost. Joseph T. Noble as

lessee of William Searight kept the tavern first after it was vacated by

Frost. It was kept for a brief period at intervals by William Searight,

but owing to his absence from home, being a contractor on public works,

he did not give the management his personal attention, but placed it in

the hands of James Allison, a well remembered and highly esteemed

citizen, subsequently and for many years postmaster at Searights. John

Gray, as has been stated, kept this house in 1828. He was succeeded by

John Risler, the noted old tavern keeper, before mentioned. Mrs.

Risler's mother died at this house. Her name was Marsh. After Mr. Risler

left, and about 1840, Matthias Fry went into possession, and conducted

the house for a number of years. He had been a popular old wagoner, and

drew a large wagon trade. He was succeeded by Joseph Gray, son of John,

before mentioned, and father of John Gray, the old railroad conductor.

Joseph Gray died in this house in January, 1851. He was a worthy

citizen, well deserving of honorable mention. After the death of Joseph

Gray the house was kept first by William Shaw, known as "Tavern Keeper

Billy," and after him by William Shaw, known as "Wagoner Billy." These

two Shaws were not of kin. In 1856 Henry Clay Rush took charge of the

house and remained in it until 1863, when he purchased the Moxley

property and removed to that point, as before stated. Rush was a popular

man, and was liberally patronized by the traveling public. In the fall

of 1862, or winter of 1863, the mansion house of Ewing Searight was

destroyed by fire, and he moved to the old tavern when Rush vacated it,

remained for a while, and subsequently from time to time leased it to

James Frost, Alfred McCormick, Thomas Allen, C. W. Downer, Robert

Moxley, Lewis Fry and James W. Claybaugh. During the terms of the last

mentioned persons the patronage of the house was mostly local. The house

is now the private residence of William Searight, a son of Ewing

Searight, owner of the property, and late superintendent of the road.

William Searight, the old proprietor, was superintendent of the road for

many years, during its flourishing era.

The National Road had its contingent of quaint characters, eccentric

men, philosophers in one sense, and loafers in another. They were

indigenous to the road, could not live away from it, and enjoyed the

precarious subsistence they obtained on it. The load-stone that

attracted them and attached them to the road, probably above all other

influences, was the pure whisky, before mentioned. It was plentiful and

cheap, and could be obtained almost for the mere asking. It did not

contain the elements of modern whisky, which excites men to revolution,

insurrection, violence and insanity. Of the characters alluded to, whose

haunts were at the old taverns along the road between Searights and

Brownsville, the reader familiar with that portion of the line will

readily recall Marion Smith, (Logan) George Ducket, Jonathan Crawford,

John W. Dougherty, Gideon Lehman and Billy Bluebaker. Logan's forte was

imitating the crowing of a rooster. Ducket had no pronounced trait, but

under a patriotic impulse volunteered as a soldier in the Mexican war,

and marched with Major Gardner, Daniel Hazard and the other heroes to

the halls of the Montezumas. Crawford was a tailor, and worked at his

trade as little as possible, but quietly enjoyed his potations. He had

nothing to say. Dougherty was a walking arsenal, savage in appearance

and gesticulation. He carried knives, pistols and a general assortment

of deadly weapons, but was never known to use them on an adversary.

Lehman was also a tailor and bass drummer. He had a bronzed complexion,

and a stolid temperament. Billy Bluebaker was elastic in motion, but

lacking in brain. He wore the smallest hat of any individual on the

road, and was happy in doing little jobs for old wagoners at his uncle's

tavern. These odd characters have all gone with the majority of the men

of the road. They witnessed and in their way participated in the

enlivening scenes of the great highway, and are entitled to a place in

its history.

[Illustration: WILLIAM SHAW.

"WAGONER BILLY."]

CHAPTER XXXV.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers, continued--Searights to

Brownsville--Able Colley's, Johnson's, known later as

Hatfield's--William Hatfield, his Good Name and Melancholy

Death--An old and odd Indenture--The old Peter Colley House--A

Tavern with a Brief Career, the Red Tavern, Wilkes Brown,

Brubaker's--Brownsville--Anecdotes of Jackson and Clay--James

Workman and Doctor Stoy--Ham and Eggs--Bazil Brashear, James C.

Beckley, William Reynolds, the Monongahela House, the Clark House,

the Iron Bridge, Bridgeport, John Riley, the Monongahela Bridge._

Over the hill from Searights is the old Abel Colley stand. The old

tavern here, in the flourishing era of the road, did a large business,

mainly in the line of entertaining wagoners. While all the taverns of

the road were more or less patronized by wagoners, excepting a few which

were exclusively stage houses, they had favorite stopping places, and

the Abel Colley tavern was one of these. The old proprietor and his

family had methods and manners which were agreeable to wagoners, and

they made it a point to stop at this house in great numbers. The bills

were moderate, yet the patronage was so extensive and continued so long

that Abel Colley accumulated a considerable fortune at this old tavern,

and when trade and travel ceased built a fine brick residence on the

roadside opposite, where he retired with his family to private life, and

in a few years thereafter died. Nancy, the wife of the old tavern

keeper, is well remembered as a large, amiable woman, who habitually

wore an expansive cap of the Queen Anne style. She long since passed to

the life beyond. W. Searight Colley, a son of Abel, now occupies and

owns the brick dwelling mentioned, with a fine farm adjacent. Peter

Colley, of the old Hunter tavern before mentioned, was likewise a son of

Abel, and he had a son, Levi, a farmer and freeholder, who died a number

of years ago on the old Covert farm, near Moxley's, now in the occupancy

of one of his sons. The Abel Colley tavern is still standing, a

monument, like many others, of the faded glories of the old pike. This

old house was kept as early as the year 1825 by Darius Grimes, and after

him by Thomas Moxley. In Moxley's time it was called the "Green Tree,"

and the writer remembers the picture of the green tree which appeared on

the sign board that hung and swung for many years in front of this old

tavern. Abel Colley took charge after Moxley left. According to the

recollection of Ebenezer Finley, as appears by his letter in the

Appendix to this volume, the Abel Colley tavern, was kept by Samuel

Wolverton and by Hugh Thompson, and this must have been previous to the

time of Darius Grimes. It was certainly before Moxley's time.

[Illustration: ABEL COLLEY.]

About one mile west of the Abel Colley house there is an old stone

tavern on the north side of the road, known in early days as Johnson's,

later as Hatfield's. This house was built in 1817 by Randolph Dearth for

Robert Johnson, who kept it as a tavern down to the year 1841, when he

retired to a farm in Franklin township, Fayette county, Pennsylvania,

where he died, leaving behind him a good name, which is better than

great riches, of which latter he had a goodly share. He was the

father-in-law of Thomas Brownfield, who, in 1862, was Sheriff of Fayette

county, Pennsylvania, and previously a tavern keeper on the road. Henry

L. Murphy, a well known and thrifty farmer of Jefferson township,

Fayette county, Pennsylvania, likewise married a daughter of Robert

Johnson. This tavern, under the guidance of Robert Johnson, did a large

business, and the old proprietor made money by conducting it. The

successor of Robert Johnson in the management of this house was Arthur

Wallace, who remained in it for a single year. He was a brother of John

Wallace, who once kept the Wilse Clement house in Hopwood, and

subsequently removed to Morgantown, Virginia, and an uncle of James

Wallace, present proprietor of the Wallace House in Morgantown. Peter

Frasher, the old wagoner and tavern keeper before mentioned, married a

daughter of Arthur Wallace. Charles Guttery succeeded Arthur Wallace in

the Johnson House. [Y]Guttery was an old wagoner, and is now keeping a

tavern in Beallsville, Washington county, Pennsylvania, and probably the

oldest man in the business. He was at the Johnson House in 1844, and a

wagoner many years before that date. From 1849 to 1851 John Foster kept

the Johnson House. He was a brother of the first wife of Robert Hogsett.

Foster was succeeded by Hiram Holmes, who kept the house one year. In

1852 William Hatfield, who had previously bought the property, went into

the house and kept it as a tavern until the year 1855, when he closed it

as a public house, but continued to occupy it as a private residence

until his melancholy death. Before engaging in tavern keeping, William

Hatfield served many years as a Justice of the Peace, and subsequent to

1855 served a term as Associate Judge. He was a blacksmith by trade, and

made the old iron gates of the road. He was industrious and honest, and

likewise noted for his kindness to his fellow men. It was while engaged

in doing a favor for an old neighbor, in the year 1871, that he lost his

life. His neighbor, John C. Craft, had purchased a patent pump, and

called on Judge Hatfield to assist him in placing it in his well. The

Judge, as was his habit, promptly responded, and, going down to the

bottom of the well, called to his neighbor, who stood at the surface, to

send him down a saw or an ax. The needed tool was placed in a heavy

iron-bound tub and started down, but, through neglect, the cable

slipped, and the tub was precipitated a great depth upon Judge

Hatfield's head, fatally injuring him. He was extricated from his

perilous position in an unconscious state, carried home, and lingering

only a few hours, died. His remains were interred in the beautiful

cemetery near Brownsville, attended by a large concourse of sorrowing

citizens, including the Judges of the Courts and the members of the bar

of Fayette county, Pennsylvania.

[Footnote Y: Deceased.]

Following is an exact copy of the indenture which bound William Hatfield

to learn the trade of a blacksmith:

_This Indenture Witnesseth_: That William Hatfield, of the township

of Union, in the county of Fayette, State of Pennsylvania, hath put

himself by the approbation of his guardian, JOHN WITHROW, and by

these presents doth voluntarily put himself an apprentice to GEORGE

WINTERMUTE, of the township of Redstone, county and State

aforesaid, blacksmith, to learn his art, trade or mystery he now

occupieth or followeth, and after the manner of an apprentice to

serve him from the day of the date hereof, for and during the full

end and term of five years next ensuing, during all which time he,

the said apprentice, his said master shall faithfully serve, his

secrets keep, his lawful commands every where gladly obey; he shall

do no damage to his said master, nor suffer it to be done without

giving notice to his said master; he shall not waste his master's

goods, nor lend them unlawfully to others; he shall not absent

himself day or night from his master's service without his leave;

he shall not commit any unlawful deed, whereby his said master

shall sustain damage, nor contract matrimony within the said term;

he shall not buy nor sell, nor make any contract whatsomever,

whereby his master receive damage, but in all things behave himself

as a faithful apprentice ought to do during the said term. And the

said George Wintermute shall use the utmost of his endeavors to

teach, or cause to be taught and instructed, the said apprentice

the trade or mystery he now occupieth or followeth, and procure and

provide for him, the said apprentice, sufficient meat, drink,

common working apparel, washing, and lodging, fitting for an

apprentice during the said term; and further, he the said master,

doth agree to give unto the said apprentice, ten month's schooling

within the said term, and also the said master doth agree to give

unto the said apprentice two weeks in harvest in each and every

year that he, the said apprentice, shall stay with his said master;

also the said George Wintermute, doth agree to give unto the said

apprentice one good freedom suit of clothes. And for the true

performance of all and every the said covenants and agreements,

either of the said parties binds themselves to each other by these

presents.

In witness thereof, they have interchangeably put their hands and

seals, this first day of April, one thousand eight hundred and

sixteen.

GEORGE WINTERMUTE. [Seal.]

Witness present, WILLIAM HATFIELD. [Seal.]

BENJAMIN ROBERTS. JOHN WITHROW. [Seal.]

[Illustration: HON. WILLIAM HATFIELD.]

_Fayette County, ss._:

May the 29th, one thousand eight hundred and sixteen, before me the

subscriber, one of the justices of peace in and for the said county,

came the parties to the within indenture and severally acknowledged

it as their act and deed. Given under my hand and seal the day and

year above mentioned.

BENJAMIN ROBERTS. [Seal.]

All the covenants and agreements of this quaint document were faithfully

kept on the part of William Hatfield. Benjamin Roberts, the Justice of

the Peace, before whom the instrument was acknowledged, was the father

of William B. Roberts, who led the company from Uniontown to engage in

the Mexican war, and upon the organization of the second regiment of

Pennsylvania volunteers was elected colonel, and served as such until

his death, which occurred in the city of Mexico. The old justice lived

on a small farm in Menallen township, Fayette county, Pennsylvania,

north of and adjoining the Searight farm, and Col. Roberts, his

distinguished son, was born there.

One mile west of Hatfield's is the old Peter Colley stand. It is a stone

house on the south side of the road. Peter Colley was the father of Abel

Colley, and an early settler. He kept a tavern on the old road before

the National Road was made. He was a money maker, and owned the land on

which his tavern was erected, in fee. He was probably the first man on

the National Road who acquired the fame of having a barrel of money. Old

pike boys said he kept his money in a barrel. Peter Colley was well

advanced in years when the National Road was made, and did not long

enjoy the profits of the new highway. At his death his tavern passed to

the hands of his son George, who kept it for many years, and until he

followed his father to the unknown world. George Colley lived to see and

lament the decline of business on the road, and after his death his

house was discontinued as a tavern. The hills on either side of this old

house are among the highest on the road, the summit of the western range

being twelve hundred and seventy-four feet above the level of the sea.

In the olden time, as before stated, extra horses, called "the

postilion," were required to aid the stage coaches in ascending these

hills.

A little over a mile further west a plastered stone house, on the north

side of the road, was kept as a tavern at intervals, during the

prosperous era of the road. It is not, however, to be classed among the

old taverns of the road. It was first kept as a tavern previous to 1840

by Arthur Wallace. Isaac Baily subsequently kept it for a brief period,

and enjoyed a good measure of patronage. Baily afterward became

postmaster at Brownsville, and finally a member of the Fayette county,

Pennsylvania, bar. He was a shrewd Yankee, and an active local

politician. His wife was a daughter of Solomon Colley, of the large

family of Colleys of the vicinity. George Craft once lived in this

house, and occasionally entertained strangers and travelers, but was not

a regular tavern keeper. This was also the residence at one time of

"Jackey Craft," known as an eccentric character, who was in the habit of

starting out over the road in a sleigh with bells, when there was no

snow on the ground. Before his mind became unbalanced, "Jackey" was a

pushing, money making citizen, but his life went out under a cloud of

mental derangement, causing deep regret among his many friends.

A few hundred yards further west on the south side of the road, is the

red tavern, so called, because in early days it was painted red. It is a

wooden building, weather-boarded. This house had a large wagon custom,

and, what may be considered strange without explanation, was more

largely patronized by wagoners going west than east. This was owing to

the means of ingress to and egress from the house. It is located near

the summit of a hill, a short distance from the road, and immediately in

front of it, adjoining the road, is a steep embankment. To drive to the

house going west, a way leads off from the summit of the hill, which is

level, but to drive out to the road the descent is steep, and wagoners

coming east could not reach the wagon yard without driving up this steep

grade, and, in many instances, preferred driving on to Colley's rather

than pressing their teams against such an obstacle. Despite the

disadvantage mentioned, this tavern, as before stated, was a popular

resort for wagoners. It was first kept by Cuthbert Wiggins, father of

Harrison Wiggins, and at this house Harrison Wiggins was born. It was

next kept by George Richards, whose widow became the wife of John Gadd.

Cuthbert Wiggins was at this house as early as 1812. John Gribble

succeeded Richards as early as 1836, and continued to keep this house

for many years, making money in the business, and ultimately buying a

farm in the neighborhood, ceased tavern keeping and became a successful

farmer. He has been dead many years, but is well remembered as a worthy

citizen. Upon the retirement of Gribble, this house passed to the

management of Fielding Frasher, a steady-going man, who had been a

wagoner on the road, and knew how to keep a tavern. He was an uncle of

Capt. L. H. Frasher, of Uniontown, ex-District Attorney of Fayette

county. Fielding Frasher had a good custom while keeping this house, but

did not continue long in the business, and was succeeded by Huston Todd,

a well known citizen in his day. He was a brother-in-law of Judge

Hatfield, father of Ewing Todd, for many years a leading citizen of

Brownsville, now deceased, and grandfather of William Hatfield Todd, a

popular and efficient postal clerk on the route between Pittsburg and

New York. Peter Williams, oldest son of the late Gen. William W.

Williams, married a daughter of Huston Todd. The reputation of this old

house was fully maintained while under the control of Huston Todd. Peter

Frasher next took charge of this house. He was a brother of Fielding

Frasher, and a typical pike boy, bright, active, and popular. He had

been a wagoner, and knew the road from Baltimore to Wheeling. The house,

while he kept it, was crowded with guests, but his generous nature

prevented him from exacting full payment of bills at all times, and

as a consequence his coffers were not as much swollen as those of many

of the tavern keepers, more mindful of the chief end of tavern keeping.

George Friend succeeded Peter Frasher, but remained only a short time,

when he gave way to Parker McDonald. McDonald was the last man who

conducted this house as a tavern. He was active, attentive, and popular,

but the glory of the road had departed, and the business of tavern

keeping was a thing of the past. The old red tavern and the farm

adjacent belong to the old and wealthy Bowman family, of Brownsville.

[Illustration: JOHNSON-HATFIELD HOUSE.]

A short distance west of the red tavern a stone house was kept by Wilkes

Brown, before the National Road was made, and derived its trade for the

most part from the old road. It is still standing, but not immediately

on the National Road. Wilkes Brown was of the family of Thomas Brown,

the founder of Brownsville.

The next old tavern stand on the westward tramp is Brubaker's, a fine

brick building on the north side near Brownsville. Daniel Brubaker

purchased this property from David Auld, and went into possession in the

year 1826, and from that date until his death was its constant occupant,

with the exception of a very brief period that it was occupied and kept

as a tavern by Alexander R. Watson. Mr. Brubaker survived the business

era of the road, and died in his old tavern. He was a Pennsylvania

Dutchman, born in Somerset county, and possessed the thrift

characteristic of his race. Although economical and saving, he was not

stinted in providing for the comfortable entertainment of his guests,

and enjoyed a large patronage, especially in the line of wagon custom.

After ascending the long hill out from Brownsville, going east, old

wagoners found a pleasant resting place at Brubaker's. Alex. R. Watson

will be remembered by the old folks of the road as a man of small

stature, but considerable energy, who, about forty-five years ago, ran

an omnibus line between Brownsville and Uniontown for the conveyance of

passengers.

The next point is Brownsville, for many years the head of steamboat

navigation on the Monongahela river. Here many passengers were

transferred from the stage lines to the steamboats plying between this

point and Pittsburg. It is shown by official figures that from 1844, the

date at which the slack water improvement was completed to Brownsville,

to 1852, when through business ceased on the National Road, covering a

period of eight years, more than two hundred thousand passengers left

the stage lines at Brownsville and took passage on the Monongahela

steamers. West-going passengers were "ticketed through" from Cumberland,

Baltimore and other points east, to Pittsburg and other points west,

_via_ the National Road, and the Monongahela river route. A movement was

set on foot as early as the year 1814, looking to the improvement of the

navigation of the Monongahela river, by means of locks and dams,

followed by later spasmodic efforts, but nothing of a practical nature

was accomplished in this direction until 1836, when a company was

incorporated to carry forward and complete the work. The act of

incorporation designated a number of prominent citizens to solicit and

receive subscriptions of stock, among whom were Ephraim L. Blaine,

father of James G. Blaine, of Washington county; William Hopkins, of the

same county, and Andrew Stewart and Samuel Evans, of Fayette county. Of

all the gentlemen designated for this purpose, and there was quite a

large number, not one is living at this day. There were no wagon stand

taverns in Brownsville. Wagoners "put up" at the old Riley and Bar

houses in Bridgeport, and at Brubaker's, east of town. The old Workman

House, at the upper end of Market street, was a famous stage house. It

had the patronage of the Stockton line. This house is a stone structure,

on the north side of the street, with a spacious porch in front. James

Workman, the old proprietor, will be remembered as a gentleman of ruddy

complexion, gray hair, slim, but erect stature, elastic step and curt

speech. He presided at this house for many years, and had a wide

reputation for serving good meals. This old house was built by John

McClure Hezlop in 1797, who first kept it as a tavern. James Beckley

afterwards kept it, and after his decease, it was continued as a tavern

by his widow. James Workman took charge of it in 1843. After Workman,

and since the decline of travel on the road, it has been kept at

different times by William Garrett, Aaron Wyatt, William Wyatt, Jacob

Marks, John G. Fear, and probably others. It is continued as a tavern,

and kept at the present time by Fred Chalfant.

The late George E. Hogg, for many years a leading and wealthy citizen of

Brownsville, is authority for the following amusing story concerning

James Workman, the old tavern keeper, and General Jackson. On an

occasion of one of General Jackson's frequent trips over the National

Road, the citizens of Brownsville resolved to give him a public

reception. All the usual arrangements for such an event were made,

including a dinner at Workman's tavern. The hero, upon reaching town,

was taken to the Presbyterian church to listen to a reception speech and

receive the greetings of the people. Soon after the audience had settled

down Mr. Workman entered the building, and forcing himself down the main

aisle, and to a front pew occupied by General Jackson, accosted him

thus: "General Jackson, I have been commissioned by the committee of

arrangements to provide your dinner, and have come to inquire if there

is any particular article of diet you prefer above another, that I may

have the pleasure of gratifying your taste." The old General gravely

responded, "Ham and eggs." This seemed rather confusing to the old

landlord, who, supposing the General was joking, repeated his inquiry,

when the same response came a second time and in an emphatic tone, "Ham

and eggs." The old landlord then hastily withdrew, hurried home, and

commanded his cook to prepare ham and eggs for General Jackson's dinner.

The ham of that day was a different thing from the flabby, flavorless

so-called "sugar cured" counterfeit of the present day, and thousands of

other well meaning citizens besides General Jackson were fond of the ham

of the olden time. Eggs, of course, are the same now as of yore, but

simply and solely because modern food corrupters have not discovered any

method of debauching them.

[Illustration: WORKMAN HOUSE.]

Mr. Hogg, above quoted, is responsible also for the following story: An

Old Line coach in which Henry Clay was a passenger was upset on the iron

bridge, and he was slightly injured and conveyed to the Workman house.

Dr. Stoy, an old practitioner of the place, was summoned, and hastened

to the relief of the distinguished sufferer. The old physician was given

to loquacity, and not a little elated by being called to see so

distinguished a patient. He prescribed brandy, and to vary the

prescription and assuage the patient's apprehension, began the recital

of an old joke, meanwhile holding in his hand a glass of brandy. Mr.

Clay, perceiving that the story was going to be a long one, interrupted

the doctor by suggesting that he be permitted to drink the brandy

without further delay, and rub the glass over his wounds.

A few steps below the Workman House an old tavern was kept by Bazil

Brashear, and subsequently by James Searight, who left it in 1836, to

take charge of the "National House" in Washington, Pennsylvania. The

Brashear House was a station for many years of one or more of the early

stage lines, and in 1825 Gen. Lafayette dined at this house while on his

way from Washington, Pennsylvania, to Uniontown. This old house, built

of stone, is still standing, owned and occupied as a private residence

by the widow of the late Westley Frost. Bazil Brashear was a

brother-in-law of Thomas Brown, the founder of Brownsville, and the

grandfather of Prof. Brashear, the distinguished astronomer of

Pittsburg.

James C. Beckley kept a tavern in a frame house at the head of old Front

street, for a number of years. He was a local politician of much

shrewdness, commanding a considerable following, a close friend of the

late Hon. John L. Dawson, and served that old-time, able and

distinguished statesman in many trying contests.

Further down the main street and on the south side near the present

location of the old Monongahela Bank, was the Marshall House. This house

was first kept as a tavern by William Reynolds, who was an agent of the

Adams Express Company. Mr. Reynolds previously kept the old Abrams House

in Petersburg. He did a good business at the Marshall House, which was

headquarters for the Express Company. This house was subsequently kept

at different times by Hiram Holmes, Isaac Vance, Harvey Schroyer, J.W.

Kisinger and William Garrett. After Reynolds left it the name was

changed, and it was known as the Petroleum House. It has not been used

as a tavern for a number of years.

William Reynolds was a native of Brownsville, born in 1804, and drove

his father's team between Baltimore and Wheeling, before reaching his

majority. He kept tavern in Petersburg five years, and moved from that

place to Brandonville, Virginia, where he engaged in a mercantile

venture, as a partner of his uncle, Zalmon Ludington, esq. After a brief

experience as a merchant, he returned to his father's old tavern west

of Keyser's Ridge, and afterward resumed tavern keeping in Petersburg.

From Petersburg he went to Brownsville. He was killed in a railroad

accident near Pittsburg in 1856, while in the service of the Adams

Express Company. His son John is postmaster at Confluence, Somerset

county, Pennsylvania, and William Hartman, the unfortunate brakeman who

was shot and killed on the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, near Dunbar, in

August, 1893, was a grandson of William Reynolds.

The old Clark mansion, located at the east end of "the neck" in

Brownsville, was converted to a tavern about forty-five years ago, and

became the headquarters of the Good Intent stage line. It was first

opened up as a tavern by Andrew Byers, who had previously kept the

Clinton House in Uniontown. When Byers left it Daniel Brown, the old

stage agent, took charge of it and conducted it for a brief period.

Daniel Brown's reputation as a model tavern keeper has been adverted

to in another chapter. After Brown's time the patronage of this house

was mostly of a local character. The Clark House was kept for a while

after Brown left it by Capt. Morgan Mason, who subsequently located in

St. Louis, where he still resides, a leading citizen, and an ex-sheriff

of that city. The widow Schroyer also kept this house, and Matthew

Story, and it is at present kept by the Theakston Brothers.

The Monongahela House, a short distance west of the Clark House, on the

south side, was originally and for many years the private residence of

Samuel J. Krepps. It has been probably fifty years since this house was

thrown open to the public as a tavern. One of the McCurdy's was first

installed as landlord of this house. He was succeeded by Jesse Hardin,

an old stage driver, and Isaac Bailey, William Gans, Ephraim H. Bar,

Cyrus L. Conner and John B. Krepps, son of the owner, kept this house

nearly, if not exactly, in the order given. It was a stage house, and

had a large run of general custom. It continues to be one of the leading

hotels of Brownsville, under the management of David Provins.

Thomas Brown, James Auld, Amos Wilson and James C. Beckley were tavern

keepers in Brownsville prior to the construction of the National Road.

Auld preceded Beckley in the old house at the head of Front street,

above mentioned. Amos Wilson kept the old "Black Horse" tavern on Front

street.

A few yards westward from the Monongahela House the road crosses

Dunlap's creek over a handsome and expensive iron bridge, erected in

1835, and the first of the kind west of the Allegheny mountains. The

vicissitudes attending the construction of this bridge have been alluded

to in a previous chapter. The stone work of this bridge, which is a fine

specimen of heavy masonry, was let by contract to William Searight, who

pushed it forward and completed it with his characteristic energy. David

Chipps, a well remembered old citizen of the vicinity of Uniontown, and

an expert stone mason, was a boss workman on this bridge, and the late

Gen. William W. Williams, who in the prime of his life was an

excellent mason, also worked on its walls and abutments. The work was

done under authority of the War Department of the general government.

[Illustration: BRIDGE OVER THE MONONGAHELA.]

After crossing the iron bridge the traveler is in the ancient borough of

Bridgeport. Here Jack Arnold kept a tavern at a very early period. He

was succeeded by John Riley, who for many years kept a wagon stand.

Riley was a staunch citizen, and participated in the public affairs of

his town. His tavern was near the market house, and was a popular resort

in the olden time. Isaac Kimber, Robert Patterson and John Neelan kept

taverns in Bridgeport before the National Road was made. The present Bar

House is on the site of the old Kimber House. The Bar House is owned by

Ephraim H. Bar, who conducted it as a tavern for many years. It was a

wagon stand, and had a good trade. Robert Carter, old wagoner before

mentioned, was one of the men who for a time successfully conducted the

Bar House. Thornton Young, George Garrard, Matthew Story and Eli Bar

kept this house in recent years at different times, and it is now

conducted by W. F. Higinbotham.

It is but a short distance from the iron bridge before mentioned to the

long wooden bridge over the Monongahela river. This bridge, although a

link of the National Road, was not built by the government. It is a

private enterprise, and was erected in 1833. In 1810 an act was passed

by the Legislature of Pennsylvania, authorizing the Governor to

incorporate a company to build and operate a bridge at this point; but

for some cause the company was not organized, and in 1830 a company was

incorporated by the Legislature. Ephraim L. Blaine, father of the

brilliant and popular statesman, was an incorporator under the

provisions of the act of 1830, and the company authorized by that act

promptly organized, and completed the bridge at the date above

mentioned. Neil Gillespie, the grandfather of James G. Blaine, was named

in the act of 1810, above mentioned, as one of the commissioners to

solicit and receive subscriptions of stock for the bridge.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Brownsville to

Beallsville--West Brownsville, the Birthplace of James G.

Blaine--Indian Hill, later known as Krepps' Knob--Indian Peter and

Neil Gillespie--The Adams House, John Cummins, Vincent Owens--An

Old and Mysterious Murder--Malden, Bry Taylor--Tragic Death of a

Beautiful Girl--Centreville, John Rogers, Zeph Riggle, Battelly

White, the whip-maker, Mrs. Dutton, Eli Railley, The Old

Constitution, Beallsville, David Mitchell, Andrew and Thomas Keys,

Robert Cluggage, William Greenfield, Mrs. Chambers, Charles

Guttery._

[Illustration: OLD TAVERN AT MALDEN.]

From the Big Crossings to the Monongahela river at Brownsville the road

passes through Fayette county, Pennsylvania. After crossing the river

bridge at Brownsville, going west, the traveler reaches the soil of

Washington county, and plants his feet in the ancient village of West

Brownsville. From the hill tops on the road, as far west as Hillsboro,

glimpses are had of the receding mountains. West Brownsville has the

great distinction of being the birth place of James G. Blaine, the

foremost and most popular of all American statesmen of the present day.

It is related in Crumrine's valuable and well written history of

Washington county, that the land upon which West Brownsville stands was

originally owned by Indian Peter. This Indian Peter, at a very early

day, lived on lands in the vicinity of Uniontown, and gave name to

Peter's street, the oldest street of that town. He had a neighbor whose

name was Philip Shute, with whom he was not on friendly terms. Prior to

1769 Indian Peter wrote to the authorities of the proprietary

government, that "he could not get along with the damned Dutchman, and

wished to give up his land for another tract." His request was promptly

complied with, and he was given a tract of three hundred and thirty-nine

acres, situate on the west side of the Monongahela river, which was

surveyed and called "Indian Hill," and upon this tract stands the town

of West Brownsville. It embraces Krepps' Knob, which together with the

character of the old owner, accounts for the name given the tract.

Krepps' Knob is ten hundred and forty feet above the level of the

Atlantic ocean. Indian Peter, it seems, died in possession of the Indian

Hill tract, and it passed to his widow Mary, a white woman, and his

oldest son William. In 1784 the widow and son aforesaid, sold the tract

to Neil Gillespie, the great-grandfather of James G. Blaine. The price

agreed upon between the parties was forty shillings per acre, payable in

instalments of money, iron and one negro. This tract of land remained

in the Gillespie family for many years. Philip Shute, the old German

neighbor of Indian Peter, lived in Union township, Fayette county, now

North Union, near the late residence of Colonel Evans, and gave name to

the gushing mountain stream which flows through the lands of that

vicinity. The bridge over the Monongahela river stands on an almost

direct north and south line, and a short distance from its northern end

the road makes a sharp angle to the westward. On the south side of this

angle a tavern was kept by Samuel Adams, as early as the year 1820.

Samuel Adams was the father of Estep Adams, the present polite and

popular postmaster at West Brownsville. John Huston succeeded Samuel

Adams in this old house. In the early days of the road this house was

constantly crowded with guests. At the close of Huston's term, the old

house, which was a wooden structure, was torn down, and the present

brick building was erected on its site, and continued as a tavern

throughout the whole period of the road's prosperous era, and for many

years thereafter. Joshua Armstrong was the first occupant of the new

building. His term was prior to the year 1840. Morris Purcell came in,

after Armstrong. Dr. Adams, the postmaster before mentioned, when a boy,

counted fifty road wagons standing around this old tavern, in one night,

when it was kept by Morris Purcell. The wagon yard, which was large and

commodious, was located on the west side, and in the rear of the house.

Major William Paul, hereinbefore mentioned, succeeded Purcell in this

house, about the year 1842, and retained the extensive line of wagon

custom with which his predecessor was favored. James Watkins, an old

stage driver of Washington, Pennsylvania, was Maj. Paul's bar keeper at

this house, and his son-in-law, Thomas Hamen Hopkins, was the successor

of Maj. Paul in this house. His widow is still keeping a tavern in West

Brownsville. She is well up in years, but her memory is clear and well

stored with interesting reminiscences of the road. Greenberry Millburn

next had charge of this house, and kept it for a brief period, when he

retired, and his name does not subsequently appear on the roll of old

tavern keepers. John Cummins was the next occupant of this house. He

purchased the property, and held it until his death, which occurred near

the close of the prosperous era of the road. He was an Irishman, thrifty

and energetic, and besides tavern keeping, took contracts on public

works. About the year 1859 this house passed to the control of Moses

Bennington, who conducted it during the era of the civil war. He was

succeeded by William Dawson, whose successor was James B. Dorsie. Doc

Bar kept the house for a brief period, and one of its occupants was

Robert Miller. Upon the expiration of Miller's term Thomas H. Hopkins

again took charge, and it was subsequently kept for short periods, at

different times, by Solomon Watkins, James Nichols and John Taylor. The

house is at present owned by the Pittsburg, Virginia and Charleston

railroad company, and used as a passenger and freight station.