under the marshalship of that most indefatigable Whig, Thomas Shriver,
who, with some other Cumberlanders, proceeded to the Ohio river and met
the presidential party. Among the party were statesmen, politicians, and
office-hunters, notably Col. Bullet, a brilliant editor from New
Orleans, who was to occupy a relation to President Taylor something like
that of Henry J. Raymond to Lincoln. The road was a perfect glare of
ice, and everything above ground was literally plated with sleeted
frost. The scenery was beautiful; to native mountaineers too common to
be of much interest, but to a Southerner like Gen. Taylor, who had never
seen the like, it was a phenomenon. In going down a spur of Meadow
Mountain, the presidential coach, with the others, danced and waltzed on
the polished road, first on one side and then on the other, with every
sign of an immediate capsize, but the coaches were manned with the most
expert of the whole corps of drivers. Shriver was in the rear, and in
the greatest trepidation for the safety of the President. He seemed to
feel himself responsible for the security of the head of the Nation.
Down each hill and mountain his bare head could be seen protruding
through the window of his coach to discover if the President's coach was
still upon wheels. The iron gray head of the General could almost with
the same frequency be seen outside of his window, not to see after
anybody's safety, but to look upon what seemed to him an arctic
panorama. After a ride of many miles the last long slope was passed and
everything was safe. At twilight the Narrows were reached, two miles
west of Cumberland, one of the boldest and most sublime views on the
Atlantic slope. Gen. Taylor assumed authority and ordered a halt, and
out he got in the storm and snow and looked at the giddy heights on
either side of Wills creek, until he had taken in the grandeur of the
scenery. He had beheld nothing like it before, even in his campaigns in
Northern Mexico. The President-elect was tendered a reception on his
arrival at Cumberland, and the next morning he and his party left on the
cars for Washington."
At an early day there was a coach factory at or near the Little
Crossings, where many of the first passenger coaches used on the road
were made. They were without thorough braces, or springs of any kind.
Their bodies were long, and the inside seats for passengers placed
crosswise. They had but one door, and that was in the front, so that
passengers on entering were compelled to climb over the front seats to
reach those in the rear.
The first coach of the Troy pattern was placed on the road in the year
1829 by James Reeside, and tradition has it that he won this coach with
a bet on Gen. Jackson's election to the presidency. Mr. Reeside was
desirous that Gen. Jackson should be the first person to ride in this
coach, and accordingly tendered it to the President-elect when on his
way to Washington, who true to his habit of refusing gifts, declined the
proffered compliment as to himself, but consented that his family might
occupy the coach. Charley Howell was the driver, and his team was one of
the finest on the road. Many coaches were brought out on the road
afterward from the Troy and Concord factories. These coaches cost
between five and six hundred dollars each.
John Buck was one of the oldest and best stage drivers on the road. He
lived in Washington, Pennsylvania, and drove on the old line in the
life-time of Daniel Moore, and was a great favorite of that ancient
stage proprietor. When Lafayette visited Washington in 1825, Mr. Moore
was active and prominent in arranging for his reception at that place,
and assigned John Buck to drive the coach in which the illustrious
visitor entered the town. It was a proud day for the old driver, who
shared with the hero of the occasion, the plaudits of the people. Buck
subsequently became the senior member of the firm of Buck, Lyon & Wolf,
contractors, who built most of the locks and dams on the Muskingum
river, in the State of Ohio. This old firm was called the "Menagerie
Company," on account of the names of its members.
[Illustration: THE NARROWS.]
William Robinson (not "Billy") suffered an "upset" at Somerfield, in
1832, with a full load of passengers going west. The stage coach had but
one door, and to bring up the door side to the Endsley tavern, in
Somerfield, it was necessary to wheel around. Robinson turned his team
with such rapidity as to overturn the coach, and the passengers were all
tumbled out in a pile, but none of them were seriously hurt. Wash.
Alridge threw a coach over on the Conway hill, near Somerfield,
inflicting a severe spinal injury upon a passenger who lived in
Cincinnati. The sufferer was cared for at the tavern in Jockey
Hollow, kept at the time by Aaron Wyatt. The stage company (old line)
paid the injured passenger a considerable sum in damages, without suit.
A passenger by the name of Merrill, of Indianapolis, had a leg broken by
the upsetting of a coach at the turn of the road, above Somerfield;
Samuel Jaco was the driver. William Roach, a well known driver, was
killed in an "upset" at the Little Crossings bridge, about the year
1837. This seems to have been a different accident from that which
occurred near the same place in 1835, related in the sketch of John
Marker. Marker witnessed the accident of 1835, and states that the
driver who was killed at that time was James Rhodes. David Stinson, an
old driver, was killed by an "upset" on Woodcock Hill. Woodcock Hill is
a short distance west of Thomas Brownfield's old Mt. Augusta tavern, and
is the highest peak on the road in Fayette county, Pennsylvania. Charley
Howell upset in 1835, coming down the Winding Ridge Hill, and was badly
hurt. He had a leg and arm broken, and was nursed at Connelly's tavern,
in Petersburg, for many months before he recovered.
In 1834 or 1835, Mr. Stockton transferred a number of stage teams and
drivers, from the Baltimore and Washington City road, to the National
Road. Two of these teams ran in and out from Somerfield. One called "the
Kangaroo team" was driven by John Mills. They were large, dark bays, and
much admired by lovers of fine horses. Mills knew how to handle them. He
was a superb driver. Another of these "transferred" teams was driven by
William Bishop. The horses in this team were light bays, all
"bob-tails," and notwithstanding there was but one good eye in the whole
team, and all were "sprung in the knees," it is asserted by many old
pike boys that this unique and "blemished" team was the fastest on the
road. It was brought out from the Baltimore and Washington road by
Charles Howell, who drove it a short time before it was turned over to
William Bishop. Bishop was a capital reinsman.
The preservation of the National Road was considered so vital to the
general welfare by everybody living upon its line and adjacent to it,
that the deepest interest was manifested in the success of every measure
proposed for its benefit. There was no powerful and paid "lobby" around
the halls of Congress when the Cumberland Road was the highway of the
Republic, as there is at this day, but all measures planned and
presented for its preservation and repair, were carefully watched and
guarded by such statesmen as Henry Clay, Daniel Sturgeon, Andrew
Stewart, T. M. T. McKennan, Lewis Steenrod, W. T. Hamilton, and Henry W.
Beeson. The following from a Cumberland paper published in that place
sixty years ago shows the popular feeling in behalf of the road at that
date:
"The citizens of the town on the 21st of May, 1832, in demonstration of
their great joy growing out of the appropriation made by the National
Government for the repair of the Cumberland Road, made arrangements for
the celebration of that event. In pursuance of that arrangement, Samuel
Slicer illuminated his large and splendid hotel, which patriotic
example was followed by James Black. In addition to the illumination,
Mr. Bunting (our famous 'old Red'), agent of L. W. Stockton, ordered out
a coach, drawn by four large gray stallions, driven by George Shuck. The
stage was beautifully illuminated, which presented to the generous
citizens of this place a novelty calculated to impress upon the minds of
all who witnessed it the great benefits they anticipated by having the
road repaired. There were also seated upon the top of the vehicle
several gentlemen who played on various instruments, which contributed
very much to the amusement of the citizens and gave a zest to everything
that inspired delight or created feelings of patriotism. They started
from the front of Mr. Slicer's hotel, and as they moved on slowly the
band played 'Hail Columbia,' 'Freemasons' March,' 'Bonaparte Crossing
the Rhine,' 'Washington's March,' together with a new tune composed by
Mr. Mobley, of this place, and named by the gentlemen on the stage, 'The
Lady We Love Best,' and many others, as they passed through the
principal streets of the town. On their return they played 'Home, Sweet
Home,' to the admiration of all who heard it."
David Bonebraker was a stage driver of good reputation, and a general
favorite. While his name would import otherwise, he was a careful driver
and never during his whole service did he break a bone of man or beast.
He was a large, fine looking man, and drove between Somerfield and Mt.
Washington as early as 1831, and for a number of years thereafter.
Hanson Willison was early on the road as a stage driver, and none of his
fellow drivers excelled him in skillfulness. He drove a brief period
between Uniontown and Brownsville, but for the most part in and out from
Cumberland. He is still living in Cumberland, proprietor of the American
House livery stables, and doing a profitable business. He retains the
habits of the early days of the road, generous almost to a fault,
perfectly familiar with the road's history, his memory is well stored
with its exciting incidents and accidents. Hanson Willison and Ashael
Willison before mentioned, are brothers.
[Illustration: HANSON WILLISON.]
The few remaining old folks who witnessed the exciting scenes of the
National Road in its palmy days, will readily recall the following old
stage drivers: John Griffith, William Witham, George Lukens, Wash
Alters, Hank Smith, John Heinselman, Barney Strader, John Munson, West
Crawford, James Chair, William Roberts, Vin Huffman, John Windell, a
small, thin faced man, with rings in his ears, one of the earliest
drivers, William Saint, who was also a blacksmith, and worked,
occasionally, at his trade in Uniontown. He went to Texas before the
civil war, and died there. Lewis Gribble, son of John, the old wagoner
and tavern keeper. He went to Virginia, drove stage in that State, and
died there. John Sparker, John Snell, David Oller, Joseph Henderson, a
steady-going man, mentioned among the old tavern keepers in connection
with the "Gals house," David Armor, William Armor, Samuel Oller, and
William Dickey. The Ollers, the Armors, Dickey and Henderson were of
Washington, Pa. Jacob Snyder, subsequently manager and proprietor of
the Shipley house, in Cumberland. William and George Grim, John Zane,
James Schaverns, Joseph Vanhorn, John McIlree, Jesse Boring, John
Munson, John Ruth, David Jones, Benjamin Miller, subsequently tavern
keeper in the old Mannypenny house, Uniontown. An early line of stages
stopped at Miller's. James Mannypenny, Thomas Fee, Walter Head, educated
for the ministry, Thomas and Edward McVenus, William Totten, William
Vanhorn, Spencer Motherspaw, James Griffith, Abram Dedrick, William
Fowler, Thomas Chilson, William Jones, Andrew Heck, John Fink, William
Irwin, James Sampey, subsequently and for many years owner and manager
of the tavern at Mt. Washington, where the Good Intent line changed
horses and passengers often stopped for meals; Isaac Newton, Robert
Jackson, a young man of diminutive size, from one of the New England
States, whose father came and took him home; James Dennison,
subsequently tavern keeper at Claysville and at Hopwood; Isaac Newton,
died at Mt. Washington when John Foster kept the tavern at that point;
Matthew Byers, Hugh Drum, John Hendrix, Alexander Thompson, William
Hart, Charles Kemp, Ben Watkins, Ben Watson, John and Andrew Shaffer,
Garret Clark, Garret Minster, John Ferrell, James Lynch, John Seaman,
James Reynolds, John Bunting, Lindy Adams, Leander Fisk, James Derlin,
Aaron Wyatt, James Andrews, Alfred Haney, Wash Bodkin, William Crawford,
Charles Cherry, William Hammers, Addis Lynn, Harry, Nelse and Jack
Hammers, Nimrod, Joseph, Jack and William Sopher, John and Joseph
Pomroy, William and Watt Whisson, John McCollough, William Miller, son
of Charley, the old tavern keeper west of Hillsborough; Robert
McIlheney, John McMack, Thomas, Joshua and William Boyd, John Parsons,
Matthew Davis, one of the oldest, and still living at Brownsville; John
W. Boyce, George Wiggins, brother of Harrison, the old fox hunter of the
mountains; Robert Bennett, William White, David Reynolds, James
McIllree, Fred Buckingham, Thomas and William Noble.
William Noble died in Washington, Pennsylvania, Jan. 26, 1894.
Robert McIlheny, after relinquishing the reins and whip, became an agent
for the sale of the celebrated Hayes buggies, of Washington.
John Parsons left the road to take charge of a hotel in Bridgeville,
Allegheny county, Pennsylvania. Alfred Haney went South, became
baggagemaster on a Southern railroad, and was killed in an accident.
Charley Cherry had the manners of a savage, and was called "the big
savage man," but it is not known that he ever wantonly shed the blood of
a fellow being.
James McIlree drove between Washington and Wheeling.
Hugh Drum was called "Mickey Murray." He lingered for a while on the
road after its glory departed, and pushed out for New York, where he
engaged to drive an omnibus. What became of him in the subsequent
shifting sands of time is not known, but presumably he has gone to the
unknown world.
[Illustration: MATT. DAVIS.]
William McCleary, who died recently near Claysville leaving an estate
valued at $50,000; Daniel Dawson, subsequently kept a tavern near
Limestone, Marshall county, West Virginia, and died there; Samuel
Rowalt, Robert Bell, William Watkins, John Ford, still living in
Monongahela city; George Freiger, Barney and Samuel Nunemaker, Thomas
Cox, John Ruth, Abram Boyce, Charles Oulitt, James Dean, William
("Boggy") Moore, when a boy a rider on the pony express; John Schenck,
Thomas Hager, Joseph Ruff, Dandy Jack, James Fisk, Joseph Drake, Andrew
Ferrell, John Fouch, George Walker, George Banford, Joseph Lewis, Larry
Willard, Isaiah Fuller, Davy Crockett, Henry Wagner, John Foster, Henry
Smith, James Foster, John Noble, Edward McGinnis, Thomas McGinnis, John
Johnson (Old Sandy), John Horrell, William Grim, Elias Johnson, Daniel
Boyer, James Bodkin, James Null, William Null, William Clark, David
Brower, Richard Frantz, James Rowe, John Seaman, David Brennard, Henry
Schuck, George Crow, James Andrews (Dutch Jim), drove in and out from
Grantsville; John Huhn, drove in and out from Claysville; Moses
Thornburg, Wylie Baily, James McClung, James, Abraham and Robert Devan,
brothers; Thomas and George Henderson, Stephen Leggett, James Wilson,
Henry Herrick, John Giddings, Ed Washburn, J. S. Beck, Frank White,
Jesse Matthews, Robert Fenton, Jesse Hardin, David Johnson, Archy
McGregor, Samuel Darby, James Moore, Joseph Drake, James Riley, William
Matthews, Edward Hall, James Vancamp, Benjamin Miller, grandson of the
old tavern keeper of Uniontown; Samuel Betts, Calvin Springer,
ex-sheriff of Fayette county; James Noggle, Martin Stedler, William
Wiley, John Wiley, William McGidigen, James McGidigen, Daniel Shriver,
Jerome Heck, Frederic Zimmerman, Robert Bennett, Edward Kelley, John
Clark, Samuel Blair, Ross Clark, George Butts, Beck Kelley, William
Kelley, William Fisher, James and Thomas Bradley, Thomas Johnson,
William Brower, Richard Frazee, Isaac Toner (Dumb Ike), Joseph Jenk,
Evans Holton, Daniel Dean, Jesse Brennard, George Brennard, John Steep,
John Collier, Ben Tracy, George Moore, George Richmire, Charles
Richmire, Thomas McMillen, Samuel Porter, Isaac Flagle, William and Ross
Clark, Richard Butts, Garret and West Crawford, John Brown, subsequently
a clerk in the Wheeling postoffice; Joseph Matthews, John Waugh, William
Hickman, a circus man; George Robbins, Abram Boyce, Oliver Jackson,
Joseph Bishop, Thomas McClelland, Elisha Stockwell, Isaac Denny,
subsequently tavern keeper at the old Griffin house in the mountain,
west of Somerfield; John Harris, drove on the Good Intent line, and died
in Uniontown; Charles and Robert Marquis, James Moore, son-in-law of
James Sampey, of Mount Washington; Perry Sheets, drove west of
Washington; Elmer Budd, drove from Uniontown to Brownsville; Frank
Watson, Bate Smith, Sam Jerome, James Downer, son of William, of the big
water trough on Laurel Hill, when a boy a rider for the pony express;
William Stewart, Caleb Crossland, of Uniontown; William Bogardus, who
lost an eye by coming in contact with a pump handle on Morgantown
street, Uniontown, on a dark night; John Robinson, a very large man;
Samuel Youman, mentioned under the head of old wagoners, next to "Old
Mount" the largest man on the road; Thomas Milligan, Joshua Boyd,
Stephen Leonard, David Johnson, James McCauley, Thomas Boyd, Garret
Clark, Henry Miller, Thomas Moore, William Wilkinson, Galloway Crawford,
Samuel Jaco, Robert Wright, Fred. Buckingham, Jacob Rapp, killed at
Brownsville about 1840 by his team running off; John Rush, Samuel
Holsted, Sandy Connor, living as late as 1882, and carrying the mail in
a two-horse vehicle from Frostburg to Grantsville; John Farrell, farming
near Grantsville in 1882 and at that date eighty-five years old; Jacob
Shock, Eph. Benjamin, William Bergoman, Upton Marlow, subsequently
proprietor of the American and other leading hotels in Denver, Colorado;
Archie McVicker, James Cameron, Charles Enox, Robert Amos, James
Finnegan, drove a bob-tailed team from Somerfield to Keyser's Ridge;
Squire Binch, of Brownsville, well remembered by the old folks of that
place; Richard Harris, Joseph and David Strong, the former for many
years a prominent citizen of Cumberland, and frequently honored by
public trusts; Abe Walls, ---- Bonum, called "Magnum Bonum;" James Gray,
Henry Powell, Henry Bergoman, Rock Goodridge, Sherwood Mott, Daniel
Boyer, Robert Dennis, David James, Thomas Grace, John Lidy, drove a dun
team of bob-tails from Farmington to Somerfield, that formerly belonged
to the Pioneer line; Isaac Frazee, James McLean, Thomas and Henry
Mahany, Baptist Mullinix, Amariah Bonner, B. W. Earl, subsequently a
stage agent, and tavern keeper at the Stone house near Fayette Springs,
and at Brownsville; John and Matthias Vanhorn, Daniel Quinn, James
Corbin, William Corman, of Braddee mail robbery fame; Atwood Merrill, a
fiery partisan of the Good Intent line; William Willis, noted as a fast
driver on the Old line. On one occasion Willis passed Peter Burdine, a
fast driver as before stated of the Good Intent line, which prompted the
partisans of the Old line to get up the little rhyme following to
emphasize and signalize the event:
"Said Billy Willis to Peter Burdine,
You had better wait for the Oyster line."
The fares on the stage lines were as follows:
From Baltimore to Frederic $ 2 00
" Frederic to Hagerstown 2 00
" Hagerstown to Cumberland 5 00
" Cumberland to Uniontown 4 00
" Uniontown to Washington 2 25
" Washington to Wheeling 2 00
------
Through fare $17 25
A paper was prepared by the agent of the line at the starting point of
the coach in the nature of a bill of lading, called the "way bill." This
bill was given to the driver, and by him delivered to the landlord at
the station immediately upon the arrival of the coach. It contained the
name and destination of each passenger, and the several sums paid as
fare. It also bore the time of departure from the starting point, and
contained blanks for noting the time of the arrival and departure at
every station. The time was noted by an agent of the line, if one were
at the station, and in the absence of an agent, the noting was done by
the landlord. If a passenger got on at a way station, and this was of
daily occurrence, he paid his fare to the landlord or agent, which was
duly noted on the way bill, together with the passenger's destination.
In addition to the stage lines hereinbefore mentioned, there was a line
known as the "Landlords' Line," put on the road by tavern keepers,
prominent among whom were William Willis (the old driver before
mentioned), Joseph Dilly, and Samuel Luman. There was also a "Pilot
Line" and a "Pioneer Line." These lines had but a short run. The
railroad managers east of Cumberland favored the older lines, and gave
them such advantages in rates that the new lines were compelled to
retire from the competition. They sold out their stock to the old
companies. James Reeside owned the "Pilot Line," and the "Pioneer Line"
was owned by Peters, Moore & Co.
The compensation paid stage drivers was twelve dollars a month, with
boarding and lodging. They took their meals and lodged at the stage
houses, except the married men, who lodged in their own dwellings when
chance threw them at home.
At Uniontown a number of contiguous frame buildings on Mill and South
streets, in the rear of Brownfield's tavern, known as "Hopwood's Row,"
were occupied almost exclusively by the families of stage drivers. They
were erected and owned by the late Rice G. Hopwood, Esquire, and hence
the name given them. Two or three of these old houses are all that are
left standing, and they are in a dilapidated condition. The spirit of
improvement which in late years entered Uniontown, seems to have
carefully avoided the neighborhood of "Hopwood's Row."
The Good Intent and Stockton lines were taken from the National Road in
1851, and placed on the plank road from Cumberland to West Newton. From
the latter point passengers were conveyed by steamboat to Pittsburg by
way of the Youghiogheny river, which was made navigable at that date by
a system of locks and dams like that of the Monongahela. Upon the
withdrawal of the lines mentioned, a line was put on the National Road
by Redding Bunting and Joshua Marshe, and ran as far west as Washington,
Pennsylvania. William Hall subsequently purchased the interest of Mr.
Marshe in this line, which was kept on the road until about the close of
the year 1852, when the era of four-horse coaches ended.
[Illustration: JOHN McILREE.]
Mr. Endsley, before quoted, furnishes his juvenile opinion of stages and
stage drivers, which was shared in by all the boys of the road, as
follows:
"My earliest recollections are intimately associated with coaches, teams
and drivers, and like most boys raised in an old stage tavern, I
longed to be a man when I could aspire to the greatness and dignity of a
professional stage driver. In my boyish eyes no position in life had so
many attractions as that of driving a stage team. A Judge, a
Congressman, even Henry Clay or President Jackson, did not measure up to
the character of John Mills and Charley Howell, in my juvenile fancy."
The picture of the stage coach era herein drawn may be lacking in vigor
and perspicuity of style, but it contains no exaggeration. Much more
could be written concerning it, and the story would still be incomplete.
It is sad to think that nearly all the old drivers, so full of life and
hope and promise when pursuing their favorite calling on the nation's
great highway, have answered the summons that awaits the whole human
family, and of the vast multitude that witnessed and admired the dashing
exploits of the old drivers, but few remain to relate the story. When
the old pike was superseded by the railroad, many of the stage drivers
went west and continued their calling on stage lines occupying ground in
advance of the approaching railway. Others lingered on the confines of
the familiar road, and fell into various pursuits of common life. Of
these, some achieved success. As drivers they had opportunity for making
acquaintances and friends. Hanson Willison was eminently successful as a
local politician, and achieved the distinction of being twice elected
sheriff of Alleghany county, Maryland.
CHAPTER XXV.
_Distinguished Stage Proprietors, Lucius W. Stockton, James Reeside,
Dr. Howard Kennedy, William H. Stelle--Old Stage Agents, Charley
Rettig, John Risley, William Biddle, James Coudy, Redding Bunting,
Edward Lane, Theodore Granger, Charles Danforth, Jacob Beck, Daniel
Brown, "Billy" Scott, "Lem" Cross, and B. W. Earl--The Pony
Express._
The most conspicuous of all the old stage proprietors of the National
Road was Lucius Witham Stockton. James Reeside was probably an older
stage man, and may have owned and operated more stage lines; but Mr.
Stockton was longer and more prominently identified with the business on
the National Road. He was born at Flemington, New Jersey, September 1,
1799. He was a son of Lucius Stockton, and a grandson of the Rev. Philip
Stockton, known in his day and among his countrymen as "The
Revolutionary Preacher," who was a brother of Richard Stockton, a signer
of the Declaration of Independence from the colony of New Jersey. L. W.
Stockton appeared in Uniontown as a stage proprietor previous to the
year 1824, the exact date not ascertainable. He was twice married. His
first marriage occurred on November 24, 1824, and at that date he was a
resident of Uniontown, and had been previous thereto. His first wife was
Rebecca Moore, a daughter of Daniel Moore, an old stage proprietor who
lived in Washington, Pennsylvania. By his first marriage he had six
children, viz: Richard C., Daniel Moore, Elizabeth C., Lucius Witham,
Margaret, and Rebecca. Richard, Daniel, and Elizabeth, by the first
marriage, are dead; the last named died in infancy. Lucius Witham is
living in Philadelphia. He married Ellen, the youngest daughter of Dr.
John Wishart, an old and distinguished physician of Washington,
Pennsylvania, grandfather on the maternal line of Hon. Ernest F.
Acheson, late Republican nominee for Congress in the Twenty-fourth
district of Pennsylvania. Margaret Stockton became the wife of Dr.
Thomas McKennan, a leading physician at this time of Washington,
Pennsylvania, and a member of the old and distinguished McKennan family
of that place. Rebecca Stockton became the wife of Capt. Alexander
Wishart, and is living in Newark, New Jersey, where her husband is
executive officer of the Law and Order League. Captain Wishart was a
gallant soldier of the Union army in the war between the States.
[Illustration: L. W. STOCKTON.]
Mr. Stockton's second wife was Katharine Stockton, his first cousin. She
is still living, making her home with her son-in-law, Gen. Leiper, of
Philadelphia. By his second marriage Mr. Stockton had four children, as
follows: Katharine, Richard C., Elias Boudinot and Henrietta Maria. Of
these all are dead but Henrietta Maria. She is the wife of Gen. Leiper,
with whom her mother lives, as before stated, in Philadelphia.
It is related as an incident in the early career of Mr. Stockton that he
had a race with a horse and buggy against a locomotive, between the
Relay House and Baltimore, in which he came out ahead. The horse he
drove on that occasion was a favorite gray. He had a pair of "Winflower"
mares, which he drove frequently from Uniontown to Wheeling between
breakfast and tea time, tarrying two or three hours at mid-day in
Washington. At the watering places he ordered a little whisky to be
added to the water given these spirited and fleet animals, and they
became so accustomed to it that, it is said, they refused to drink
unless the water contained the stimulating element. He would also drive
from Uniontown to Cumberland in a day, stopping at the stations to
transact business, and from Cumberland to Hagerstown, sixty-six miles,
was an ordinary day's drive for him. His private carriage was a long
open vehicle which he called "The Flying Dutchman." Hanson Willison, who
has a vivid recollection of Mr. Stockton and his lively trips over the
road, says that the names of his sorrel mares (the "Winflowers") were
"Bet" and "Sal," and that they once ran off. On that occasion Mr.
Stockton was accompanied by his wife and a sister. Miss Stockton was
much alarmed, and pulling the coat-tail of her brother cried out
piteously, "Hold on, brother William, hold on, or we'll all be killed!"
But Mr. Stockton heeded not the cries of his sister, and having no fear
of horses, soon regained control of the runaways without sustaining loss
or injury.
Mr. Stockton died at Uniontown on April 25th, 1844, at "Ben Lomond," the
name he gave his residence, now the property of the widow and heirs of
the late Judge Gilmore. A few years ago the remains of Mr. Stockton were
removed from the old Methodist burying ground in Uniontown, under
direction of his loving daughters, Mrs. Wishart and Mrs. Dr. McKennan,
and deposited in the beautiful cemetery at Washington, Pa.
Mr. Stockton was of Episcopalian lineage, and active in establishing the
services of the church in Uniontown. He brought out Bishop Stone, of
Maryland, to baptize his daughter Rebecca, now Mrs. Wishart. He was a
vestryman, and besides contributing liberally in money to support the
church, donated to the parish of Uniontown the lot on which the new
stone edifice of St. Peter's now stands.
James Reeside, the second son of Edward Reeside and his wife, Janet
Alexander, was born near Paisley, Renfrew, Scotland, and was brought,
when an infant, to Baltimore county, Md., in 1789, where he was raised.
His parents being in humble circumstances, toil was his first estate.
Poor in book learning and in earthly goods, he possessed genius, energy,
executive ability, and an ambition that fitted him to be a leader of
men. Before the war of 1812 he was a wagoner, hauling merchandise from
Baltimore and Philadelphia to Pittsburg and west to Zanesville and
Columbus, Ohio. His promptness and sagacity soon enabled him to own his
own teams, which were employed in hauling artillery to Canada.
Commissioned a forage master under Gen. Winfield Scott, at Lundy's Lane,
his Scottish blood prompted him to seize a musket, as a volunteer, from
which hard fought battle he carried honorable scars. On his return he
settled at Hagerstown, Md., where, in 1816, he married Mary, the
daughter of John Weis, a soldier of the Revolutionary war. Abandoning
wagoning, he ran a stage line, in 1816 to 1818, from Hagerstown _via_
Greencastle and Mercersburg to McConnellstown, there connecting with the
stage line then in operation from Chambersburg to Pittsburg by Bedford,
Somerset, and Mt. Pleasant. In 1818, in connection with Stockton &
Stokes, of Baltimore; Joseph Boyd, of Hagerstown; Kincaid, Beck & Evans,
of Uniontown; George Dawson, of Brownsville; Stephen Hill, of Hillsboro;
and Simms & Pemberton, of Wheeling, he put on the first regular stage
line, carrying the mail, between Baltimore and Wheeling, before the
construction of the turnpikes between Hagerstown and Cumberland. This
division of the route being from Hancock to Frostburg, he removed to
Cumberland, where, in conjunction with his stage line, he kept the
"McKinley Tavern," at the corner of Baltimore and Mechanics streets,
afterward kept by Jacob Fechtig, James Stoddard, John Edwards, and
others, and now known as the "Elberon." In 1820 he quit tavern keeping,
and confined himself to mail contracting and the stage business. In 1827
John McLean, Postmaster General, afterward one of the Justices of the
Supreme Court of the United States, prevailed on him to take the mail
contract between Philadelphia and New York, and he moved from Cumberland
to Philadelphia. In the first year he reduced the time for transporting
the mail between the two cities from twenty-three to sixteen hours, and
soon thereafter to twelve hours. He soon became the owner of most of the
lines running out of Philadelphia and New York, and the largest mail
contractor in the United States. He employed in this service more than
one thousand horses and four hundred men. The wagoner soon became the
"Land Admiral," a title given him by the press in recognition of his
energy and ability.
[Illustration: JAMES REESIDE.]
The Postoffice Department at that time having to rely on its own
resources, and under Major W. T. Barry, then Postmaster-General, the
service had so increased in thinly settled sections it became deeply in
debt. Mr. Reeside raised, on his personal responsibility, large sums of
money to relieve it. His efforts were appreciated, and he was the
esteemed friend of Andrew Jackson, Henry Clay, and other distinguished
men, without regard to politics, although he was a pronounced Democrat.
Of massive frame, six feet five inches in height, yet spare in flesh,
clear cut features, sparkling, clear blue-gray eyes, fair complexion,
with dark, sandy, curly hair, he was a true Highlander in appearance,
genial in disposition, with quick and ready wit. Fond of song and
story, kind, yet strict, with all in his employment, and generous to a
fault, no words can more appropriately describe him than those of his
favorite poet and countryman, Robert Burns:
"For thus the royal mandate ran,
When first the human race began,
The social, friendly, honest man
Where'er he be,
'Tis he fulfills great nature's plan,
An' none but he."
Controversies arising between Amos Kendall, the successor of Barry, and
all the old mail contractors, their pay was suspended upon frivolous
grounds, compelling them to bring suits, among the most celebrated of
which were those of Reeside and Stockton & Stokes. The latter's case was
referred to Virgil Maxy, who found in their favor about $140,000. Mr.
Reeside's claim was tried before Justice Baldwin and a jury in 1841, and
resulted in a verdict for plaintiff of $196,496.06, which, after
seventeen years, was paid, with interest. As soon as his contracts under
Kendall expired he quit the mail service, after putting the Philadelphia
and New York mail on the Camden & Amboy railroad during the residue of
his contract term.
In 1836 he bought the interest of John W. Weaver between Cumberland and
Wheeling, then a tri-weekly line; increased it to a daily, then twice
daily, and added another tri-weekly line, and named the lines "Good
Intent," which was the name he had previously given the fast mail line
between Philadelphia and Pittsburg. In 1839 he sold his entire interest
in the National Road lines, and gave his attention to his suit against
the United States. His health being impaired, he spent the winter of
1842 in New Orleans. Returning in the ensuing spring, without benefit to
his health, he died in Philadelphia on the 3d of September, 1842.
Mr. Reeside attracted attention by reason of the peculiar garb he
appeared in. In the winter season he always wore a long drab overcoat
and a fur cap. Once in passing along a street in Philadelphia in company
with Col. Richard M. Johnson, of Kentucky, Vice-President of the United
States, some scarlet cloth was observed in a tailor's window, which
prompted Col. Johnson to say: "Reeside, as your coaches are all red, you
ought to wear a red vest." Mr. Reeside replied: "I will get one if you
will." "Agreed," said Johnson, and straightway both ordered red vests
and red neckties, and from that time as long as they lived continued to
wear vests and neckties of scarlet colors. James Reeside aided in an
early day to develop the mighty resources of our country, with such
agencies as were then available, and his name and good work deserve to
be perpetuated in history.
Dr. Howard Kennedy, an owner of stock in the National Road Stage
Company, and for a brief period a trustee of the road under the
provisions of a Pennsylvania law, enacted in 1848, repealed in 1856, was
born in Washington county, Maryland, September 15th, 1809. His father
was the Hon. Thomas Kennedy, an illustrious citizen, who figured
conspicuously in the history of Maryland in the olden time. Dr. Kennedy
was a graduate of the Medical University of Baltimore, and a thoroughly
educated physician, but the practice of medicine not proving congenial
to his tastes, he soon abandoned it and embarked in other pursuits.
About the year 1840, or a little before that time, he was appointed a
special, confidential agent of the general postoffice department, in
which relation he achieved distinction by detecting numerous mail
robberies, and bringing the perpetrators before the courts for trial and
punishment. It was through the vigilance of Dr. Kennedy that the mail
robberies of the Haldeman brothers, Pete and Abe, and Pate Sides, at
Negro Mountain, were discovered, and the offenders apprehended and
punished.
The Haldemans and Sides were stage drivers, and their calling through
the dismal shades of death and other dark regions in the mountains with
big, tempting, mail bags in their charge, no doubt turned their minds to
what they considered a speedy, if not altogether a safe method of
getting money. Whispers of suspicion growing out of the vigilance of Dr.
Kennedy in pushing his investigations, reached the ears of the suspected
ones, and they fled to Canada, but not to be thwarted in his purposes,
Dr. Kennedy pursued them thither, had them arrested and brought back to
Baltimore for trial. Abe Haldeman was acquitted, but Pete and Pate Sides
were convicted and sent to the penitentiary. Dr. Kennedy was also the
prime mover in bringing to light the noted mail robberies of Dr. John F.
Braddee, of Uniontown, as will be seen by the following affidavits:
_Pennsylvania, Fayette County, ss._:
The testimony of Dr. Howard Kennedy taken before N. Ewing,
president judge of the 14th Judicial district of Pennsylvania, the
8th day of January, 1841, in reference to the amount of bail to be
required of John F. Braddee, Peter Mills Strayer and William
Purnell. The said Dr. Howard Kennedy being first by me duly sworn
according to law, deposeth and saith: "There will be difficulty in
ascertaining the amount of money stolen from the mails. There have
been six mail pouches or bags stolen, which would average twenty to
thirty thousand dollars each. The whole would, I am satisfied,
amount to one hundred thousand dollars. I saw the money alleged to
have been found in the stable of John F. Braddee. The amount thus
found was $10,098.60. The amount of cash stolen is probably about
$50,000.
"HOWARD KENNEDY."
Taken and subscribed before me, January 8th, 1841.
N. EWING,
P. Judge, 14th Judicial District.
[Illustration: WILLIAM H. STELLE.]
PITTSBURG, January 25, 1841.
"Howard Kennedy, special agent of the postoffice department, in
addition to the testimony given by him before his Honor, Judge
Ewing, further deposes that since that time he has received reports
from various persons and places in the West of letters mailed at
dates which would have, by due course of mail, been in the bags
stolen, containing bank notes, scrip, certificates, drafts, and
checks, amounting to $102,000 and upwards; that every mail brings
him additional reports of losses, and that he believes the amounts
reported will not constitute more than one-half of what has been
lost in the mails between the 16th of November and the 18th of
December, 1840, on the route from Wheeling to New York.
"HOWARD KENNEDY.
"Special Agent Postoffice Department."
Sworn and subscribed before me the 25th day of January, 1841.
T. IRWIN, District Judge.
As before stated, Dr. Kennedy was one of the owners of the line of
coaches known as the National Road Stage Company. This was popularly
known as the Stockton line, called "the old line," because it was the
oldest on the road. Dr. Kennedy managed all the business of this line
relating to the transportation of the mails. He was also one of the
original members of the Western Express Company, doing business between
Cumberland and Wheeling and Pittsburg _via_ the Monongahela river. L. W.
Stockton dying in the spring of 1844, in the fall of that year Dr.
Kennedy brought his family from Hagerstown, Maryland, to Uniontown, and
established his residence in the old Stockton mansion, called "Ben
Lomond," now the home of Mrs. Judge Gilmore. Here Dr. Kennedy resided
until the year 1851, when he returned to Hagerstown, where he died on
the 12th of June, 1855. He was of medium height and delicate form, of
pleasant address, and a gentleman by birth, education, association and
aspiration; in religion an Episcopalian, and in politics a Democrat. His
widow, a sister of the late Alfred Howell, of Uniontown, survives him.
She is enjoying the sunset of a gentle life in Hagerstown, the central
figure of a remnant of that polite and refined society which in the
palmy days of the National Road distinguished all the old towns along
its line.
William H. Stelle was born in New Jersey, and it will be noted that many
of the stage owners, agents, and drivers came out from that State. Two
of Mr. Stelle's partners in the stage business, John A. Wirt and Mr.
Hutchinson, were likewise Jersey men. It is related that Mr. Stelle and
Mr. Acheson were both desirous of selling their interests in the stage
lines, the former being an owner in the Good Intent, and the latter in
the Stockton line. Mr. Stelle one day approached Mr. Acheson in
Wheeling, and told him he would give him five hundred dollars, if he
would sell or buy at a price to be mutually named. Mr. Acheson named a
price which he would give or take, and Mr. Stelle elected to sell, and
promptly paid Mr. Acheson five hundred dollars for acceding to his
proposition. Mr. Stelle located in Wheeling about the year 1841, and
died at Elm Grove, Ohio county, West Virginia, on the 26th of September,
1854, aged about fifty years. He left a son, William H., and a daughter,
Mrs. Susan R. Hamilton, both living in Wheeling.
Agents of the stage lines possessed functions somewhat, but not
altogether, like those of railroad conductors. Some agents passed
constantly over the road, paying bills, providing horses and equipage,
and giving general direction to the running of the lines. Others were
stationary, attending to local business. These agents were prominent
characters of the road, and popularly esteemed as men of high position.
One of the earliest agents was Charles Rettig, who subsequently kept the
tavern two and one-half miles east of Washington, and referred to in a
chapter on taverns and tavern keepers. John Risly, of Frederic, Md., and
William Biddle and James Coudy, of Hancock, were old agents of lines
east of Cumberland. Redding Bunting, Edward Lane, Theodore Granger and
Charles Danforth were agents of the Old line west of Cumberland, with
authority extending to Wheeling. Bunting also kept the National House in
Uniontown, and Lane kept the National House in Washington, which were
headquarters at those points respectively for their line. Charles
Danforth was a leading local agent of the Stockton line at Uniontown. He
was a large, fine looking man, with florid complexion, heavy black
whiskers, and possessed of popular manners. He was a native of New York
State, and died at Bedford, Pa., in 1853. His remains were brought to
Uniontown, and interred in the old Methodist cemetery, near Beeson's old
mill. His widow is living in Chicago. Edward Lane was a man of average
size, of reddish complexion, energetic in motion, and affable in manner.
His tavern in Washington, Pa., was one of the best eating houses on the
road. Granger was a large, dark complexioned man, not well liked by the
people, but a favorite of Mr. Stockton. After the stage lines were taken
from the road, Granger went to Cincinnati, procured employment at a
livery stable, and died in that city in indigent circumstances. Jacob
Beck was an agent for Weaver's line, which was on the road a short time,
and went with that line to Ohio and Kentucky. He returned from the West,
and was a bar-keeper for John N. Dagg, of Washington, Pa., and
subsequently, as elsewhere stated, kept tavern at Rony's Point, Va., and
died there. He was an old stage driver, a good one, and esteemed as an
honest man. Daniel Brown, mentioned among the old tavern keepers, was an
agent of the Good Intent line, and a very competent one. He was a native
of New Jersey, and his sad ending has been alluded to in another
chapter. William Scott, familiarly called "Billy," was a well-known
agent of the Good Intent line. He had been a driver, and was promoted to
an agency on account of his competency and fidelity. He was a master of
his business, a man of small stature, dark hair and complexion, and a
little given to brusqueness of manner, but on the whole rather a popular
agent. He remained an agent of the Good Intent line until business
ceased on the road, when he went to Iowa, and became an agent of a stage
line in that State. From Iowa he went to Texas, and died at Jefferson in
that State. It is said that he was descended from a good family on both
sides, who were wealthy, and that he engaged in stage driving from
choice, rather than necessity, and his friends were disappointed in his
career. Lemuel Cross was an agent of the Old line. He also kept tavern
at Piny Grove, as elsewhere stated, and is well remembered. His
jurisdiction as agent was mainly on the mountain division of the road,
and he thoroughly understood his business, and was familiar with all the
haunts, hills, and hollows of the mountains. B. W. Earl was likewise an
agent for a while of the Good Intent line. He commenced a driver, was
advanced to an agency, and ended a tavern keeper. John Foster, Andrew
Cable, William F. Cowdery, Levi Rose and William Terry were agents at
Wheeling. The latter had charge in part of Neil, Moore & Company's line
in Ohio.
THE PONY EXPRESS.
In the year 1835 or 6, Amos Kendall, being Postmaster-General, placed on
the road a line of couriers, called the "Pony Express." It was intended
to carry light mails with more speed than the general mail was carried
by the coaches. The Pony Express was a single horse and a boy rider,
with a leather mail pouch thrown over the horse's back, something after
the style of the old-fashioned saddlebags. The route for each horse
covered a distance of about six miles on the average. The horse was put
to his utmost speed, and the rider carried a tin horn which was
vigorously blown when approaching a station. William Moore, Thomas
Wooley, subsequently stage drivers, William Meredith, Frank Holly and
James Neese were among the riders on the Pony Express east of
Cumberland, and Sandy Conner, Pate Sides and Thomas A. Wiley, all three
afterward stage drivers, and William Conn rode west of Cumberland. Wiley
rode from Uniontown to Washington, Pennsylvania, and also between
Washington and Wheeling. He went with the log cabin boys from Uniontown
to Baltimore in 1840 as a driver of one of the stage teams employed on
that occasion. He is still living, an employe of the Baltimore & Ohio
Railroad Company at Camden Station, Baltimore, in the service of which
he has been employed since 1852. He was an attendant at the bedside of
L. W. Stockton during that gentleman's last illness. Calvin Morris, a
son of William Morris, the old tavern keeper on the hill west of Monroe,
and William Downer, a son of the old gentleman who lived at and
maintained the big water trough on Laurel Hill, were also riders on the
Pony Express. William Morris was one of the contractors for carrying
this fast mail, and his house was one of the relays of the line. The
relay next west was the old toll house near Searights. Luther Morris, a
brother of Calvin, the Pony Express rider, went to Iowa previous to the
civil war, and was elected State Treasurer on two or three occasions.
John Gilfillan, now, or recently, of Parkersburg, West Virginia, was a
rider on the Pony Express between West Alexander and Wheeling. Bryant
and Craven, of West Alexander, were among the contractors of the Pony
Express line. "The Pony Express" did not remain long on the road, but
when it was on, old pike boys say "it kicked up a dust."
CHAPTER XXVI.
_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers from Baltimore to Boonsboro--Pen
Picture of an Old Tavern by James G. Blaine--The Maypole--The Hand
in Hand--Earlocker's--Pine Orchard--The Brown Stand--Levi Chambers,
the Nullifier--Old Whalen's Sunfish, Bob Fowler's Goose and
Warfield's Ham--Poplar Springs--Allen Dorsie, Van McPherson, The
Widow Dean, Getzendanner's, Peter Hagan, Riddlemoser and the
McGruder House, Peter Zettle, Emanuel Harr._
"CALDWELL'S TAVERN: We did not use the high sounding _hotel_, but
the good old Anglo-Saxon _tavern_, with its wide open fire in the
cheerful bar room, and the bountiful spread in the dining room, and
the long porch for summer loafers, and the immense stabling with
its wealth of horse-flesh, and the great open yard for the road
wagons. How real and vivid it all seems to me this moment! All the
reminiscences of the old pike, for which you are an enthusiast, are
heartily shared by me."--JAMES G. BLAINE.
Caldwell's tavern, mentioned by Mr. Blaine, is seven miles west of
Washington, Pennsylvania, and will be referred to hereafter in its
proper place. Mr. Blaine's description is appropriate to nearly all the
old taverns of the road.
The outward appearance of an old tavern of the National Road was no
index to the quality of the entertainment it afforded. Many of the least
pretentious houses furnished the best meals, and paid the most agreeable
attention to guests and patrons. It was not unusual to see the wagon
yard attached to a small wooden and apparently decaying tavern crowded
with teams and wagons, while the inviting grounds of the imposing brick
tavern near by were without an occupant.
The May Pole tavern in Baltimore was a favorite stopping place for old
wagoners. It is located on the southwest corner of Paca and German
streets, and still standing, an object of much interest to the old
people of the road. In front of it stands a tall, slim, granite column,
representative of a pole, and preservative of the ancient name. The May
Pole was kept in 1833 by Henry Clark, and in 1836 by James Adams, who
remained in charge until his death. His successor was Isaac Willison, a
Virginian, and before assuming control of the May Pole, an agent of the
Baltimore & Ohio Railroad company, at Frederic City. George Elliott,
subsequently manager for Mrs. Adams, at the Mountain City house in
Cumberland, was at one time a clerk in the May Pole tavern.
The "Hand in Hand" tavern on Paca, between Lexington and Saratoga
streets, and the "White Swan" on Howard street, were likewise old wagon
stands in Baltimore, well patronized in the early days of the National
Road. Thomas Elliott also kept a wagon stand in Baltimore, and enjoyed a
fair share of patronage. He was the father of George Elliott, above
mentioned. The May Pole, however, was the favorite tavern of the old
wagoners of the National Road. The "Three Ton" and "Gen. Wayne" taverns
had each extensive stabling, and furnished accommodations for droves and
drovers. The National Road entered the city of Baltimore by way of West
Baltimore street.
The first wagon stand west of Baltimore, fifty years ago, was kept by a
man whose name was Hawes. It was seven miles from the city, and wagoners
often left it in the morning, drove to Baltimore, unloaded, reloaded,
and returned to it in the evening of the same day, and the next morning
proceeded on the long journey to their western destination. The Hawes
tavern ceased to do business after 1840.
At Ellicott's Mills, ten miles west of Baltimore, there was no wagon
stand, but stage houses were located there, where stage teams were kept
and exchanged.
One mile west of Ellicott's, Frank Earlocker kept a wagon stand, that
was largely patronized. He was rather of an economical turn of mind, and
old wagoners were wont to say of him that he concealed the whisky bottle
behind the counter, against the custom of the road, which was to expose
it to full view; and it is said that the miserly Earlocker lost more
than he gained by his habit, since it induced wagoners to inquire for a
drink, more to worry the landlord than to appease the appetite.
A short distance west of Earlocker's is "Pine Orchard," where a tavern
was kept by one Goslin. He was a goslin only in name. Otherwise, he was
a square man, and knew how to treat strangers and travelers, especially
wagoners, who largely favored him with their patronage. His house was a
brick structure, and stood on the north side of the road, and for aught
known to the contrary, is still standing, a monument commemorative of
the many good old taverns which studded the road in the days of its
glory.
James Dehoff kept a tavern at Pine Orchard as early as 1835. His house
was a wagoners' resort, and stood on the south side of the road.
An old tavern, known as the "Brown Stand," four miles west of "Pine
Orchard," was a popular stopping place for wagoners in its day. In 1838
Levi Chambers took charge of this house, and continued to conduct it
until 1842. He was called "Nullifier" Chambers, because of his adherence
to the nullification doctrine, announced and advocated by John C.
Calhoun. He, however, knew how to keep a tavern, and was a sober and
intelligent man. On the first of January, 1841, John Crampton and
William Orr, old wagoners before mentioned, drove out from Baltimore
with full loads, and put up at the "Brown Stand." During the night a box
of silk goods was stolen from Orr's wagon. The loss was discovered early
in the morning, and Orr and Chambers each mounted a horse and pushed out
in the direction of Baltimore, in search of the stolen goods and the
thief. There was a light snow on the road, and tracks were visible,
indicative of rapid steps toward the east. Reaching Baltimore, Messrs.
Orr and Chambers entered the bar room of the May Pole tavern, in which a
number of persons were drinking, and among them one, who, from his
actions, was suspected as the thief. He was arrested, tried, convicted,
and sent to the penitentiary.
Four miles west of the "Nullifier's," John Whalen kept a wagon stand,
and one of the best on the road. Old wagoners entertain pleasant
recollections of John Whalen, and delight in recounting the good cheer
that abounded and abided in his old tavern. He kept the tavern at this
point up to the year 1842.
One Warfield kept a tavern a short distance west of Whalen's as early as
1835, and had a good wagon custom. Old wagoners had a rough distich on
this section of the road, running something like this:
"Old Wheeler's sunfish,
Bob Fowler's roast goose,
Warfield's ham,
Ain't that jam!"
New Lisbon was an aspiring village, twenty-six miles west of Baltimore,
and the first point of note west of Whalen's. Stages stopped and teams
were changed at New Lisbon, but it had no wagon stand.
At Poplar Springs, one mile west of New Lisbon, there was a wagon stand
kept by Allen Dorsie. Near the old tavern is a large, gushing spring, in
the midst of tall poplar trees, and hence the name "Poplar Springs."
Such was the situation at this point fifty years ago, but alas, fifty
years is a long time, and the "Poplar Springs" may present a different
appearance now. Allen Dorsie, the old proprietor of the tavern here, was
likewise and for many years superintendent of the Maryland division of
the road. He was a very large man, six feet in height, and rounded out
in proportion. He was besides a man of admitted integrity and good
intellect. He ceased keeping tavern at Poplar Springs in 1842.
Seven miles west of Poplar Springs Van McPherson kept a tavern, which
did an extensive business. The proprietor was half Dutch and half Irish,
as his name imports, and he had the faculty of pleasing everybody. His
house was a brick structure on the north side of the road, and is
probably still standing. Van McPherson kept this house from 1836 to
1842, and made money in it.
New Market is a village west of McPherson's old tavern, and in Frederic
county, Maryland. Here the stages stopped and changed teams, and an old
wagon stand was kept by one Shell. It is said of Shell that his name
differed from his table, in that the latter contained no shells, but the
best of savory viands.
Three miles west of New Market, Frank Wharton kept a tavern, and a good
one. He was rough in manner, and could swear longer and louder than
Wilse Clement, but he kept his house in good shape and did an extensive
business.
One mile west of Wharton's the widow Dean kept a tavern. Her house was a
brick structure on the south side of the road, and she owned it and the
ground whereon it stood, in fee simple. She was largely patronized by
wagoners.
Next after passing Mrs. Deans old stand, the city of Frederic is
reached, which fifty years ago was the largest town on the road between
Wheeling and Baltimore. James Dehoof and John Lambert kept old wagon
stands in Frederic City. Lambert died about 1840, and was succeeded by
John Miller, who kept the house down to the year 1853.
Four miles west of Frederic City the old wagoners encountered Cotockton
mountain, and here was a fine old tavern kept by Getzendanner, a German.
His house was a stone building, on the south side of the road,
presumably standing to this day. Getzendanner, true to his native
traits, was the owner of the property. Old wagoners unite in saying that
the old German kept a good house, barring a little too much garlic in
his sausages.
Peter Hagan played the part of host at an old tavern, one mile west of
Getzendanner's. His house was a log building, and stood on the south
side of the road. As before stated, the outward appearance of an old
tavern on the National Road was no index to affairs within; and though
Peter Hagan's house was small and made with logs, the cheer within was
exhilarating. His meals were simple and but little varied, yet so
manipulated in the kitchen, and spread upon the table so tastefully, and
withal so clean, that they were tempting even to an epicure. Peter
Hagan's patrons were for the most part wagoners, and the old wagoners of
the National Road knew what good living was, and "put up" only where the
fare was inviting. Peter Hagan was an uncle of Robert Hagan, a local
politician of South Union township, Fayette county, Pennsylvania.
Proceeding westward from Hagan's old tavern, the next point is the
village of Middletown, which hoped to become a city, and might have
succeeded, had not the steam railway eclipsed the glory of the old pike.
At Middletown the stages had relays of horses. One of the stage houses
at this point was kept by ---- Titlow, a relative of F. B. Titlow, of
Uniontown. Here also there was a wagon stand, kept by Samuel
Riddlemoser. This was in 1840. In the spring of 1841 Riddlemoser moved
to the Widow McGruder house, one mile west of Middletown. The McGruder
house was well conducted, and enjoyed a large patronage.
South Mountain comes next, and here a tavern was kept by one Miller. It
was a wagon stand, a stone building, on the north side of the road. The
battle of South Mountain was fought here, but the roar of the cannon
failed to awaken the departed glories of the old Miller tavern.
One mile west of South Mountain, Petter Zettle, a German, kept a tavern.
It was a wagon stand, and a popular one. The house was of brick, and
stood on the south side of the road. The old landlord was accustomed to
join in the merry-making of the old wagoners, and as the jokes went
around in the old bar room, the German spice was plainly discernible as
well as agreeable, in unison with the familiar notes of the native pike
boys.
One mile west of Zettle's, Robert Fowler kept a wagon stand. Fowler quit
in 1839, and was succeeded by Emanuel Harr, who conducted the house for
many years. Joe Garver, a noted blacksmith, had a shop at this point.
Garver, it is said, could cut and replace as many as a dozen wagon tires
in a single night. It was not an uncommon thing for the old blacksmiths
of the road to work all night at shoeing horses and repairing wagons.
CHAPTER XXVII.
_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Boonsboro to
Cumberland--Funkstown, Antietam, Hagerstown, Dirty Spigot, Shady
Bower, Clear Spring, North Mountain, Indian Spring, Hancock--The
House of Nicodemus--Accident on Sideling Hill, the Longest Hill on
the Road--Snib Hollow--Town Hill--Green Ridge--Pratt's Hollow--A
Fugitive Slave--Polish Mountain--Flintstone--Martin's Mountain._
"It stands all alone like a goblin in gray,
The old-fashioned inn of a pioneer day,
In a land so forlorn and forgotten, it seems
Like a wraith of the past rising into our dreams;
Its glories have vanished, and only the ghost
Of a sign-board now creaks on its desolate post,
Recalling a time when all hearts were akin
As they rested at night in that welcoming inn."
JAMES NEWTON MATTHEWS.
Boonsboro is a small town at the foot of South Mountain in Maryland, and
in the palmy days of the National Road was a lively village. Old
wagoners and stage drivers spread its fame, but railroad conductors are
silent as to its memory. The Slifer Brothers kept tavern in Boonsboro in
the olden time. Their house was not a wagon stand. One of the Slifer
brothers, as before stated, claimed to be the inventor of the "rubber,"
brake, as it is commonly called. At the west end of Boonsboro the widow
Galwix kept a wagon stand and did a large business. She was the widow of
John Galwix, hereinbefore mentioned as a fancy wagoner. Robert Fowler
kept a tavern in Boonsboro as early as 1835 and a wagon stand on the
north side of the road.
Three and a half miles west of Boonsboro Henry and Jacob Fosnock,
Germans, kept a wagon stand, which was well patronized. The property was
owned by the Fosnocks, and they made money with their tavern. They were
bachelors, but had an unmarried sister, Susan, who acted in the capacity
of hostess. She subsequently became the wife of the old wagoner, Joseph
Crampton. The Fosnocks were at the point mentioned as late as 1842.
Funkstown appears next in sight. Funkstown, another old village
identified with the by-gone glories of the old pike. The name of this
village brings to mind the once familiar form of John Funk, an old
wagoner. John lived at or near Funkstown, and his family may have given
the name to the village. Funkstown is located on Little Antietam creek,
about seventy miles west of Baltimore. Fifty years ago there was a
paper mill and a grist mill at Funkstown, and they may be there yet, and
others in addition. At the east end of Funkstown, Joseph Watts kept a
wagon stand, and competed for the custom of the wagoners with William
Ashton, who kept a similar tavern at the west end of the town. Each did
a good business. Ashton will be remembered as the athletic wagoner, who
leaped over the top of a road wagon at Petersburg. He knew the wants of
wagoners and served them well at his old tavern. He was the owner of two
fine six-horse teams, and kept them constantly on the road.
After Funkstown, come the classic shades and handsome streets of
Hagerstown. Hagerstown was always a prominent point on the road. It
ranked with Wheeling, Washington, Brownsville, Uniontown, Cumberland,
and Frederic. Hagerstown was a station for the stage lines. It outlived
the road, and flourishes as one of the best towns of Maryland. The only
old wagon stand in Hagerstown was that of John B. Wrench. But Hagerstown
was rather too stylish a place for old wagoners, and Wrench gave up his
house there in 1842, and removed to Piney Grove, where he found a more
congenial atmosphere. He subsequently kept one of the old taverns at
Grantsville, from which point he emigrated to Iowa, and died there.
Four and a half miles west of Hagerstown, an old wagon stand was kept by
David Newcomer. It was a stone house, on the north side of the road.
Newcomer furnished good entertainment, and was well favored with
customers, mostly wagoners. He was a Quaker, and a money maker. He dealt
in horses, in addition to tavern keeping. When offering a horse for
sale, his wife was accustomed to say in the hearing of the person
proposing to buy: "Now, David, thee must not sell that favorite horse."
This, old wagoners say, was a "set-up job" between David and his spouse
to gain a good price. Newcomer was the owner of the property, and as the
house was of stone, is probably standing yet; but the ring of the old
pike has gone from it long since.
Three miles westward from Newcomer's was the imposing and
well-remembered tavern kept by John Miller. It was of brick, a large and
commodious building, situate on the north side of the road. Miller owned
the property, and it may be in the possession of his descendants to this
day. There were large rooms in this house, adapted to dancing purposes,
and young men and maidens of the vicinity frequently tripped to the
notes of the old time music in its spacious halls. The waltz was
unknown, and the figures varied from the "hoe down" to the cotillion,
closing always with the "Virginia Reel." The old wagoners were
invariably invited to participate in these festivities, and engaged in
them with a gusto not excelled by the lads and lasses of the surrounding
neighborhood. Alfred Bailes, the old pike boy of Dunbar, drove a line
team from John S. Miller's to the Nicodemus House, two miles west of
Hancock, as early as the year 1836, and is probably the only survivor of
the young folks who participated in the gayeties of Miller's old
tavern.
One mile west of Miller's is "Shady Bower." There a tavern was kept by
Conrod Wolsey. His house was well favored by wagoners, who sought his
generous board in goodly numbers, and while well liked by his customers,
he got the name of "Dirty Spigot," because the spigot of a whisky barrel
in his house was once besmeared with filth. There was a large distillery
near Wolsey's tavern, operated by Barnes Mason. Mason had two teams on
the road, driven by William Keefer and Joseph Myers.
Clear Spring comes next, and derives its name from the existence of a
large, gushing spring of clear water, in volume sufficient to propel a
mill. An old wagon stand was kept at Clear Spring by Andrew Kershaw, who
died the proprietor of the house, and was succeeded by his son Jonathan.
The house was a large brick building, on the south side of the road.
Stages stopped and exchanged teams at Clear Spring, but not at
Kershaw's. His house, as stated, was a wagon stand. Gusty Mitchell is a
well-remembered character of Clear Spring. He used to steal and drink
the wagoners' whisky, and "bum" around their teams in all sorts of ways.
One night the wagoners poured turpentine over Gusty and set fire to him,
which so frightened him that he never afterward had anything to do with
wagoners.
The next old tavern was on the top of North Mountain, two miles west of
Clear Spring, kept by Joseph Kensel. It was a log house, and on the
north side of the road. Kensel owned the property. While this old tavern
was humble in outward appearance, the fires burned brightly within, and
its patrons, who were numerous, highly extolled the quality of the
viands it spread before them.
Indian Spring comes next, four and a half miles west from Clear Spring.
Here a wagon stand was kept by David Miller. The house is a stone
structure, on the north side of the road, and Miller owned it in fee
simple. This old house was a favorite resort of wagoners, and night
after night echoed the once familiar notes of the great highway, in the
days of its glory.
Three miles west from David Miller's, Anthony Snider, a distant relative
of John Snider of happy memory, kept a wagon stand. It was a frame
building on the north side of the road. Peter Hawes once lived at this
house, and hauled stone for an aqueduct on the adjacent canal.
Four miles west of Snider's, on the north side of the road, stood the
old frame tavern of Widow Bevans. She owned the property, and her house
was a popular stopping place. It will be noted that in many instances
widows kept the best taverns along the road. There is no record of a
widow making a failure as a tavern keeper.
Two miles further on to the westward, and before the once familiar
tavern of Widow Bevans entirely recedes from view, the old wagon stand
of David Barnett is reached. His house was a large log building, on the
north side of the road. Here the first transportation line of six-horse
teams, John Bradfield agent, had relays, its next relay eastward being
the house of John Miller, before mentioned. Barnett was a jolly old
landlord, fond of exchanging jokes with old wagoners and other patrons.
He had a manner and a method of pleasing his guests, and did a large and
profitable business.
Westward, two miles from Barnett's, is the historic town of Hancock,
named in honor of the man who wrote his name in letters so large and
legible, that they were read all round the world. There was no old wagon
stand tavern in Hancock, except for a short time about the year 1838.
John Shane established it, but was not successful, and removed to
Cumberland, where he set up a confectionery shop. Wagoners preferred
country before town taverns, as a rule. Stages stopped and exchanged
horses in Hancock.
Two miles west of Hancock, one Nicodemus kept an old wagon stand. His
first name has not been preserved, owing probably to the sublimity of
his surname. He was known all along the road, but mentioned only as
Nicodemus. His house was a frame building on the north side of the road,
and he owned it, and died in it. He kept a good tavern, and was well
patronized. Widow Downer kept this house before the time of Nicodemus.
Two miles west of the house of Nicodemus is Sideling Hill, so called
from the sloping character of the ground upon which the road is laid. At
the eastern foot of this hill Jacob Brosius kept an old wagon stand, and
had a good share of custom. His house was a frame building and stood on
the south side of the road. The distance from the foot to the summit of
Sideling Hill is four miles, and it is the longest hill on the road. In
1837 Jacob Anderson, an old wagoner, was killed on Sideling Hill. His
team became frightened on the summit and ran down the western slope,
coming in contact with a large tree on the roadside with such force as
to break it down, and falling on Anderson, he was instantly killed.
Isaac Browning, Caleb Langley and Black Westley, with their teams and
wagons, were on the road with Anderson at the time of this accident.
Anderson was a citizen of Loudon county, Virginia. Langley, Browning and
Westley belonged to Fayette county, Pennsylvania. The road crosses a
stream at Sideling Hill, called Sideling Hill creek. There was a covered
bridge over this creek. In 1841 John Moss and Billy George, old
wagoners, drove their teams on this bridge, and stopping a while to rest
under the shade afforded by the roof, the bridge broke down,
precipitating horses, wagons and drivers a distance of fourteen feet to
the water, causing considerable damage to the wagons and the goods
therein, but strange to say inflicting but slight injuries upon the
drivers and teams. The teams and wagons belonged to Robert Newlove, of
Wheeling.
Two miles from the foot of Sideling Hill, and on the north side of the
road, John H. Mann kept a wagon stand. His house was a frame building.
Mann was a citizen of some prominence, and at one time represented his
county (Washington) in the Maryland Legislature. It is not known that
his proclivities in the line of statesmanship impaired in any wise his
talent for tavern keeping.
On the western slope of Sideling Hill, about midway between the summit
and the foot, Thomas Norris kept a tavern, which was a favorite resort
of wagoners. His house was a large stone building, on the north side of
the road. There was a picturesqueness about the location of this old
tavern that imparted a peculiar spice to the ordinary rounds of
entertainment enjoyed by its guests. Samuel Cessna kept this house at
one time.
One mile west of Sideling Hill creek, a wagon stand was kept by the
widow Ashkettle, another widow, and she no exception to the rule before
stated, that the widows all kept good houses. Her name is not
inappropriate to some of the duties of housekeeping, but Mrs.
Ashkettle's forte was not in making lye, but in setting a good, clean
table. She had a son, David, who managed the business of the house for
her. Her house was a frame building, and stood on the north side of the
road.
Two miles west of Mrs. Ashkettle's the wayfarer struck the point bearing
the homely name of "Snib Hollow." These old names never wear out, no
matter how ugly they are, and it is well they do not. They all have a
significance and an interest, local or otherwise, which would be lost by
a change of name. Quidnuncs in history and literature have exerted their
restless talents in efforts to obliterate these seemingly rude, old
names, and substitute fancy ones in their stead, but they have failed,
and their failure is a pleasant tribute to the supremacy of common
sense. As early as 1825 the widow Turnbull kept a tavern at Snib Hollow.
Later, an old wagon stand was kept there by John Alder, who had a large
run of customers. His house was a log building, on the north side of the
road.
Town Hill comes next, a half a mile west of Snib Hollow, at the foot of
which Dennis Hoblitzell kept a tavern as early as the year 1830, and
probably earlier. The house was on the east side of the road, and the
locality is often called Piney Plains. Mrs. McClelland, of the
McClelland House, Uniontown, is a daughter of Dennis Hoblitzell. Samuel
Cessna subsequently kept this house, and stage lines and wagon lines all
stopped at it. It was here, and in Cessna's time, that Governor Corwin,
of Ohio, was treated as a negro servant, mention of which is made in
another chapter. In 1836 John Snider stopped over night at this house,
with a load of emigrants, while Cessna was keeping it, and had to clean
the oats he fed to his horses with an ordinary bed sheet, the windmill
not having reached this point at that early day.
At the foot of Town Hill, on the west side, Henry Bevans kept a tavern.
It was a wagon stand, and likewise a station for one of the stage lines.
The house stood on the north side of the road, and enjoyed a good trade.
Samuel Luman, the old stage driver, kept this house in 1839.
Two miles west from the Bevans house is Green Ridge, where an old wagon
stand was kept by Elisha Collins. His house was a log building, and
stood on the north side of the road. Although this house was humble in
appearance, old wagoners are unstinted in bestowing praises on its
ancient good cheer.
Trudging onward, two miles further to the westward, the old wagoner, and
many a weary traveler, found a pleasant resting place at "Pratt's
Hollow," where Samuel Hamilton kept a cozy old tavern. It was a frame
house, on the north side of the road. Hamilton was a planter as well as
tavern keeper, and raised tobacco and owned and worked negro slaves.
Levi McGruder succeeded Hamilton as the keeper of this house. This
locality derived its name from Pratt, who owned the property at an early
day, and, upon authority of the veteran David Mahaney, kept the first
tavern there. An incident occurred at Pratt's Hollow in the year 1842,
which brings to memory the state of public society in _ante bellum_
times. Among the old wagoners of the road, was Richard Shadburn. He was
a native of Virginia, and born a slave, while his complexion was so
fair, and his hair so straight, that he readily passed for a white man.
When quite young he escaped from his master and struck out for liberty
among the enlivening scenes of the great highway of the Republic. On a
certain evening of the year mentioned, he drove into McGruder's wagon
yard along with a number of other wagoners, to rest for the night. The
sun had not yet disappeared behind the western hills, and a stage coach
pulled up in front of McGruder's tavern, and stopped for water, as was
the custom at that point. Among the passengers in that coach was the
owner of the slave, Shadburn. Looking out through the window of the
coach he observed and recognized Shadburn, and calling to his aid a
fellow passenger, emerged from the coach with a determination to reclaim
his property. Dick was seized, but being a man of great muscular power,
succeeded in releasing himself from the clutches of his assailants and
fled. The disappointed master fired at Dick with a pistol, as he ran,
but he made good his escape. The team driven by Shadburn belonged to
Parson's of Ohio, who shortly after the escapade mentioned, sent another
driver to McGruder's to take charge of it. Shadburn never afterward
reappeared on the road, and it is believed that he found a home and at
last a grave in Canada.
It was near Pratt's Hollow that the Cotrells, father and two sons,
murdered a peddler in 1822, the perpetrators of which crime were all
hung from the same scaffold in Frederic. The old tavern at Pratt's
Hollow was destroyed by fire many years ago, and was never rebuilt.
Two miles west from Pratt's Hollow, John S. Miller conducted an old
tavern, and a good one. His house was a frame building, and stood on the
north side of the road. It was a popular stopping place for wagoners.
Miller kept this house as early as 1836, and subsequently became the
proprietor of the old tavern, five miles west of Washington,
Pennsylvania, where he died.
"Polish Mountain" is reached next, one mile west of the old Miller
stand. On the summit of this little, but picturesque mountain, Philip
Fletcher kept an old tavern, and greeted and treated thousands of old
wagoners and other travelers. His house stood on the north side of the
road, and was made of logs, but the table it furnished was equal to the
best on the road.
And next comes Flintstone, four miles west of Fletcher's. All old pike
boys remember Flintstone. The name has a familiar ring. The stages
stopped at Flintstone, and Thomas Robinson kept the leading tavern
there, in the olden time. His house was a stage station, and a wagon
stand as well. Robinson, the good old landlord, got into a difficulty,
many years ago, with one Silas Twigg, and was killed outright by his
assailant. As early as 1835 Jonathan Huddleson kept a tavern in
Flintstone, and had the patronage of one of the stage lines. He
subsequently kept the old Tomlinson tavern at the Little Meadows. John
Piper was an old tavern keeper at Flintstone. His house was a favorite
summer resort, and also enjoyed the patronage of old wagoners. The Piper
house is a large brick building, and stands on the north side of the
road. John Piper died about the year 1872. The house is continued as a
tavern under the joint management of John Howard, a son-in-law, and an
unmarried daughter of the old proprietor. Henry B. Elbon also kept a
tavern in Flintstone for many years, but his career began after that of
the old road ended. Elbon died about four or five years ago. Fairweather
and Ladew, of New York, own and operate a large tannery at Flintstone.
Two miles west of Flintstone, Martin's Mountain is encountered, at the
foot of which, on the east, Thomas Streets presided over an old tavern,
and welcomed and cared for many a guest. His house was a frame
structure, on the south side of the road.
Two miles further on the westward tramp the widow Osford kept a regular
old wagon stand. She was assisted by her son, Joseph. It is needless to
state that her house was popular. She was a widow. Her house was a log
building, on the south side of the road, with a large wagon yard
attached. Her dining room occupied the greater portion of the ground
floor of her house, and her table was always crowded with hungry guests.
Kitchen and bar room made up the remainder of the first story, and
wagoners' beds covered every inch of the bar room floor at night. Mrs.
Osford retired from this house after a long season of prosperity, and
was succeeded by Peter Hager, an old wagoner, who at one time drove a
team for William Searight.
Two miles west from widow Osford's, Henry Miller kept an old tavern. It
was a brick house, on the south side of the road. It will be noted that
Miller is the leading name among the old tavern keepers of the road. The
Smiths don't figure much in this line.
Two miles west of Henry Miller's an old tavern was kept by Slifer, whose
first name is lost to memory. It is probable he was of the family of
Slifers who kept at Boonsboro. It is said of this Slifer that he was a
good, square dealing landlord, kept a good house and enjoyed a fair
share of patronage.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Cumberland to Little
Crossings--The City of Cumberland--Everstine's--The Six Mile House
and Bridge--Clary's--Tragedy in Frostburg--Thomas Beall--Sand
Springs--Big Savage--Little Savage--Thomas Johnson--The Shades of
Death--John Recknor--Piney Grove--Mortimer Cade--Tomlinson's--Widow
Wooding._
The city of Cumberland is the initial point, as before stated, of that
portion of the National Road which was constructed by authority of
Congress, and paid for with funds drawn from the public treasury of the
United States. In 1835 James Black kept the leading tavern in
Cumberland. It was a stage house. In 1836 John and Emory Edwards, of
Boonsboro, leased the Black House, and conducted it as a tavern for many
years thereafter. John Snider, the old pike boy of pleasant memory,
hauled a portion of the household goods of the Edwards' from their old
home in Boonsboro to their new location at Cumberland. At the date last
mentioned there were two wagon stands in Cumberland. One of them was
kept by Thomas Plumer. Plumer had teams on the road. The other was kept
by George Mattingly. Frederic Shipley kept a tavern in Cumberland
previous to the year 1840. It was located on Baltimore street, near the
site of the station first established by the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad
Company. This house was subsequently conducted by George W. Gump, and
after him, in 1857, by David Mahaney. One Kaig, of Bedford county,
Pennsylvania, succeeded Mahaney in the control of this house. It was
called "The American," and entertained wagoners and the traveling public
at large. In 1844 and later, the widow Adams kept a wagon stand in
Cumberland, on the site of the present rolling mill. George Elliott was
manager for Mrs. Adams. The house was a large brick structure, and known
in its day as the "Mountain City House." Lewis Smith kept "The Blue
Springs House" on Mechanics street, and was largely patronized by old
wagoners. Frederic Shipley also kept a tavern on Mechanics street, after
he left the American. John Kelso, the old wagoner, kept a tavern for a
short time on Mechanics street, and was well patronized; and Otho
Barcus, another old wagoner, kept the "Pennsylvania House" on Mechanics
street in 1843, and for a period of three years thereafter. The road
when first laid out, as seen in a previous chapter, passed over Wills
Mountain. In 1834 this location was changed for a better grade, up the
valleys of Wills creek and Braddock's run. To make this change it was
necessary to first obtain the consent of the State of Maryland, which
was granted by an act of her Legislature in 1832. The old Plumer tavern
stood at the eastern end of the old location, and the old Mattingly
tavern at the same end of the new location. George Evans kept a tavern,
also, near the eastern end of the original location.
[Illustration: JOHN KELSO.]
Five miles west of Cumberland, on the new location, a wagon stand was
kept by Joseph Everstine. This was a frame house, and stood on the north
side of the road. It was well conducted, but owing to its proximity to
Cumberland, did not do as large a business as other taverns of the road,
more advantageously located.
Six miles west from Cumberland there was an old tavern known as the "Six
Mile House." It belonged to the Bruces, an old and wealthy family of
Alleghany county, Maryland, and many years ago was destroyed by fire. A
new building was erected on the old site, and remains to this day in the
occupancy of a nephew of the old tavern keeper, Aden Clary. This house
is near the junction of the old and new locations above referred to, and
near the stone bridge over Braddock's run. The sixth mile post from
Cumberland stands on the north wall of this bridge, firm and unshaken.
The bridge is well preserved, and a polished stone thereof bears this
inscription: "1835--Built by Thomas Fealy, Lieut. Jno. Pickell, U. S.
Engineer, H. M. Petitt, Ass't Supt'd."
Eight miles west from Cumberland Aden Clary kept. His house was a large
and commodious brick building on the south side of the road, and is
still standing. There was not a more popular house on the road than Aden
Clary's.
Frostburg is next reached. This was always a prominent point on the
road. It did not derive its name, as many suppose, from the crisp
atmosphere in which it was located, but from the original owner of the
land on which it stands, whose name was Frost. Frostburg was the first
stage station west of Cumberland. The leading taverns of Frostburg in
the palmy days of the road were the "Franklin House" and the "Highland
Hall House." The Franklin House was kept for many years by Thomas Beall,
the father of the Bealls of Uniontown. It was headquarters of the Good
Intent stage line. The Highland Hall House was conducted at different
times by George W. Claybaugh, George Evans, Samuel Cessna and Thomas
Porter. It was the headquarters of the Stockton line of coaches. During
Cessna's time at this house he was the principal actor in a tragedy
which produced considerable commotion in the vicinity. A negro servant
employed by Cessna addressed some insulting remark to his wife, and
immediately upon being informed thereof, Cessna proceeded to dispatch
the negro without ceremony. He was tried in Cumberland for murder and
acquitted, public sentiment very generally acquiescing in the verdict of
the jury. About the year 1850 the Highland Hall House was purchased by
the authorities of the Catholic church, remodeled, improved and
converted to ecclesiastical uses.
About one mile west of Frostburg, and at the foot of Big Savage
mountain, is Sand Springs, so called from the gurgling water in the sand
at that point. In 1836 the widow Ward kept a wagon stand tavern at Sand
Springs. Her house was a favorite resort for old wagoners. On the night
of October 3, 1836, snow fell to the depth of a foot at Sand Springs,
breaking down the timber all through the surrounding mountains. Mrs.
Ward's wagon yard was crowded with teams and wagons that night, and the
snow was so deep the next day that the wagoners deemed it inexpedient to
turn out, and remained at Mrs. Ward's until the following morning. John
Snider was among the wagoners at Mrs. Ward's on the occasion mentioned,
and is authority for the occurrence of the October snow storm. The
tavern at Sand Springs was subsequently kept by John Welsh, an old stage
driver, Hiram Sutton and Jacob Conrod, in the order named. Hiram Sutton
was a son-in-law of Jared Clary. He kept the Sand Springs tavern down to
the year 1852, when he moved to Parkersburg, West Virginia, and may be
living there yet. Philip Spiker, the old blacksmith at Sand Springs, it
is said could shoe more horses in a given time than any other blacksmith
on the road. He had a rival, however, in A. Brice Devan, now of Dunbar,
who, in the palmy days of the road, carried on a shop in Hopwood, and
shod horses for old wagoners all night long on many occasions. Devan's
backers will not concede that Spiker was a speedier shoer than he.
A short distance west of Sand Springs, on the side of Big Savage
mountain, an old wagon stand was kept by one Cheney, afterward by Jacob
Conrod. It is a stone house, on the south side of the road. In Cheney's
time at this house, Henry Clay Bush, who was an old wagoner, says that
metallic mugs were used for drinking purposes, instead of glasses. He
further states that the mugs were clean, and probably used through
deference to the pure whisky of that day. Big Savage mountain is two
thousand five hundred and eighty feet above the Atlantic.
Two miles west from Cheney's, and at the foot of Little Savage mountain,
Thomas Beall kept a tavern as early as 1830. William E. Beall,
superintendent of the Uniontown rolling mill, was born at this old
tavern. Thomas Beall removed from this place to Missouri, but after a
short absence, returned to Western Maryland, and took charge of the
Franklin House in Frostburg. Thomas Johnson succeeded Thomas Beall in
the management of this house. It was a noted place, and Johnson was a
noted character. He was a good fiddler and a good dancer. He owned a
negro named Dennis, who was also a good dancer, and night after night in
the cheerful bar room of the old tavern, Dennis performed the "double
shuffle," responsive to lively music furnished by his old master.
Johnson was small in stature, weighing but little over a hundred pounds.
Although he participated freely in the fun of the old road, he was not
unmindful or neglectful of his business. He owned the old tavern-stand
mentioned and the lands adjacent, and dying, left a comfortable
inheritance to his descendants. Little Savage mountain has an elevation
of two thousand four hundred and eighty feet above the Atlantic, being
one hundred feet lower than Big Savage.
Three miles further westward, and at the eastern approach to the Shades
of Death, John Recknor kept an old wagon stand, well known, and in its
day well patronized. Recknor kept this house as early as 1830, and ended
his days in it. It was a log and frame structure on the north side of
the road, with a commodious wagon yard attached. The thick branches of
the pine trees growing on Shade Hill, hung over this old house,
imparting to it a romantic, as well as an attractive perspective. The
fame of Mrs. Recknor as a purveyor of hot biscuits was co-extensive with
the line of the road. Now,
"The kitchen is cold and the hall is as still,
As the heart of the hostess out there on the hill."
Piney Grove comes next, two miles from Recknor's, so called from the
numerous pine trees growing in the locality in the olden time. At an
early day Joshua Johnson, a wealthy man of Frederic City, owned fifteen
thousand acres of land, embracing Piney Grove and the Shades of Death,
which he held for many years for speculative purposes. Portions of this
large area, it is said, continue in the possession of Johnson's
descendants to this day. The pine trees were cut down many years ago,
sawed up and shipped to market. William Frost, of Frostburg, erected the
first extensive saw mill in the vicinity. At Piney Grove there was an
old tavern, kept at different times by Truman Fairall, Mortimer Cade,
Lemuel Cross, John Wrench and David Mahaney. All the stage lines of the
road stopped at this old tavern, and wagoners in goodly numbers also
congregated there. It was a large frame building on the north side of
the road, and on the opposite side large stables and sheds were erected
for sheltering horses and vehicles.
West of Piney Grove about one-fourth of a mile, an old wagon stand was
kept by a man whose name was Wagoner, and subsequently by Isaac Bell,
and later by Mortimer Cade. Cade kept this house in 1840, and died in
it. His widow continued to keep it as a tavern for a number of years,
and until she became the wife of William Fear, who kept a tavern on
Keyser's Ridge. A daughter of Mrs. Cade is living in Uniontown at this
time.
Two miles west of Piney Grove the celebrated old Tomlinson tavern at
Little Meadows is reached. This is an old stand; as old as the National
Road. Here the lines of the National and the old Braddock roads
coincide. Jesse Tomlinson owned the land at this point, and kept a
tavern on the old Braddock road, before the National Road was made. Upon
the opening of the latter he abandoned his old house and erected a new
one on the new road, which he conducted as a tavern for many years.
After his death the property passed to the hands of Jacob Sides. W. M.
F. Magraw, as before stated, married a daughter of Jacob Sides. This
place is referred to as the Little Meadows in the official record of
Braddock's unfortunate march through the mountains in 1755. The region
at and about Mt. Washington, further westward on the line of the road,
where the conflict between Washington and the French and Indians
occurred, in 1754, is designated by Washington, in his official report
of that engagement, as the Great Meadows. Tomlinson's tavern is a large
stone house, on the north side of the road. After Tomlinson, it was kept
by Thomas Endsley, who was succeeded by Thomas Thistle, Thomas Thistle
by James Stoddard, and he, in turn, by Jesse Huddleson, Truman Fairall,
Lemuel Cross and David Mahaney, all before the railroad was continued
west of Cumberland. It was kept by George Layman after the railroad
absorbed the trade. Layman was afterward sheriff of Alleghany county,
Maryland. In the year 1862, while the property was under the control of
Mr. Magraw, the old Tomlinson tavern was remodeled and much improved.
The contract for the improvements was undertaken by George W. Wyning, a
well known carpenter of Uniontown, who superintended the work in person,
and during its progress he and Magraw together, spent many a pleasant
hour amid the exhilarating atmosphere of the mountains, in the society
of the old pike boys. James K. Polk dined at the Tomlinson house in the
spring of 1845, on his way to Washington to be inaugurated President.
Huddleson was keeping the house at that time. The occasion brought
together a large concourse of mountain people, who were addressed by the
President-elect.
One mile west from Tomlinson's the widow Wooding kept a tavern as early
as 1842, and for some time thereafter. Her house was a frame building,
on the north side of the road, and was largely patronized by old
wagoners. Mrs. Wooding growing old, and wearied by the onerous duties of
tavern keeping, gave up the business, and turned her house over to her
son-in-law. Peter Yeast, who conducted it for a season, and in turn
surrendered it to John Wright.
One mile west of Mrs. Wooding's old stand the traveler reaches the
Little Crossings, a name given to the locality from the circumstance
that here the road crosses the Castleman river; and the prefix "little"
is used because the Castleman is a smaller stream than the Youghiogheny,
which is crossed a few miles further westward, and called the Big
Crossings. There was no tavern at the Little Crossings previous to the
year 1836. Subsequent to that date a tavern was established there by
Alexander Carlisle, who entertained the traveling public in a
satisfactory manner. His house was a large frame structure, on the south
side of the road, subsequently kept by John and Samuel McCurdy, and
later, at different times, by David Johnson, William Dawson, Elisha
Brown, Jacob Conrod and David Mahaney. Although nearly twenty years
elapsed from the building of the road before any old landlord at Little
Crossings beckoned the weary traveler to rest and refreshment,
nevertheless, thereafter, and until business ceased on the line, that
locality presented many and rare attractions, as all old pike boys are
ready to verify.
CHAPTER XXIX.
_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Little Crossings to Winding
Ridge--Grantsville--The Old Shultz, Steiner and Fuller Houses--The
Veteran, David Mahaney--Thomas Thistle, Widow Haldeman, Death of
Mrs. Recknor, Negro Mountain, Keyser's Ridge, Log Cabin Boys of
1840, James Stoddard, Dennis Hoblitzell, The Fears, The McCurdys,
Adam Yeast, David Johnson, Perry Shultz, Truman Fairall, John
Woods, The Bane House, Wooing and Wedding of an Old Tavern Keeper,
James Reynolds, Henry Walters._
Next after leaving the Little Crossings on the westward march, comes
Grantsville, a romantic little mountain village in Garrett, formerly
Alleghany, county, Maryland, named long before the hero of Appomattox
was known to fame, and therefore not in his honor. In 1833 Samuel Gillis
kept a tavern in the east end of Grantsville, on the south side of the
road, the same house that in later years was kept by John Slicer. It was
a wagon stand in the time of Gillis, and Slicer did not take charge of
it until business had ceased on the road. John Lehman kept a tavern in
Grantsville in 1836. He was a son-in-law, as was Peter Yeast, of the
good old widow Wooding, before mentioned.
The Lehman House was subsequently kept by Henry Fuller, and after him by
George Smouse. It was a frame building near the center of the village,
on the south side of the street and road. In 1843 Henry Fuller
demolished this old house, and erected a new one in its place. Adam
Shultz kept a tavern at the east end of Grantsville back in the forties,
and dying in charge, was succeeded by his son Perry, who continued it
down to the year 1852, when the ancient glories of the old pike began to
weaken and wane. The Shultz House was an imposing brick structure, on
the south side of the road, and was kept for a while by the veteran
David Mahaney, and at one time by Jesse King. Perry Shultz was
subsequently elected sheriff of Alleghany county, Maryland. Solomon
Steiner also kept a tavern in Grantsville during a portion of the
prosperous era of the road. Grantsville seems to have been a favorite
locality for tavern keepers of German names and antecedents. Steiner's
tavern was a brick building, and stood on the opposite side of the road
from the old Shultz House. Steiner built it, owned it, and died in it,
and his son, Archibald, conducted it for a number of years after his
father's death. It was a wagon stand. The Fuller House was kept at
different times by John D. Wrench, Bazil Garletts, Barney Brown, John
Slicer, William Slicer, William Beffler, John Millinger, and Nathaniel
Slicer. Christian M. Livengood is the present proprietor. Archibald
Steiner was succeeded in his father's old house, first, by William Shaw,
and thereafter in turn by John Millinger and Jonas E. Canagy, the
present proprietor, and it is now called the Farmer's House.
David Mahaney, whose name frequently appears in these pages, is a
remarkable man. A boy when the National Road was made, he has lived on
and near it all his life. His present residence is Dunbar, Fayette
county, Pa., but he is a familiar figure on the streets of Uniontown. He
is the father of Lloyd Mahaney, the well known enterprising owner and
manager of the handsome new Mahaney house in Uniontown, and of George
Mahaney, also a popular hotel man, who at one time kept the Dixon house
in Greensburg, afterward a hotel in Pittsburg, and at the present time
is conducting a house in Latrobe. David Mahaney was born in Washington
county, Md., near Hagerstown, in 1807, and is therefore in his
eighty-sixth year, while he has the appearance of a man not over sixty.
His complexion is swarthy, step elastic, and his memory but slightly
impaired by the inroads of time. His father was a native of Culpeper
county, Va., who met with a melancholy death by drowning in the Potomac
river, on the night of the presidential election of 1856. His polling
place was eight miles from his residence, in Maryland, and to reach it
and vote involved the crossing of the Potomac. It was late in the
evening when he left the polls to return home, and upon reaching the
river, by some untoward accident fell into the water and perished. David
Mahaney's first venture in tavern keeping on his own account was at the
old Shultz house in Grantsville. He was personally acquainted with Henry
Clay, Thomas H. Benton, Lewis Cass, and others of the old time
statesmen, and frequently entertained them.
As early as 1836 Thomas Thistle kept a tavern at the foot of Negro
Mountain, two miles west of Grantsville. With a name somewhat rasping in
its import, Thistle had a smooth tongue, a mild manner, and furnished
excellent entertainment for the traveling public. He was one of the
oldest and best known tavern keepers on the road. His house was a long,
frame wooden building, on the south side of the road, at times a stage
station, and throughout its entire existence a wagon stand. Here the
National Road crosses the line of the old Braddock road. In 1844 William
Dehaven kept the old Thistle tavern, and later it was kept by Levi Dean.
One and a half miles west from the old Thistle house, and on the eastern
slope of Negro Mountain, the widow Haldeman kept a tavern as early as
1840, and like all the widows, had a large patronage. While conducting
this house, Mrs. Haldeman became the wife of Daniel Smouse, who
thereafter took charge of it. The house was a log building, on the south
side of the road, and the spacious grounds surrounding it were crowded,
night after night, with six-horse teams and big, broad wheeled wagons,
covered with canvass, presenting the appearance of a military
encampment. This old house was subsequently kept by George Smouse, and
later by John Wright. The widow Recknor, of savory memory, before
mentioned, died a boarder in this old tavern, much lamented.
[Illustration: DAVID MAHANY.]
Onward, westward and upward, the crest of Negro Mountain is reached.
There are several versions of the origin of the name of this mountain.
Probably the one most worthy of acceptance is that in the early
collisions between the whites and the Indians, a negro appeared as an
ally of the Indians in a conflict on this mountain, and was among the
slain. Negro Mountain is two thousand eight hundred and twenty-five feet
above the level of the Atlantic ocean, and the second highest elevation
on the line of the road. The old commissioners give the height of the
mountain as two thousand three hundred and twenty-eight and twelve
one-hundredths feet, from their base of measurement in the Potomac, near
Cumberland, and as before stated, make no mention of Keyser's Ridge. In
the year 1836 Dennis Hoblitzell kept a tavern near the summit of Negro
Mountain, on the eastern slope. He was the father of Mrs. McClelland, of
the McClelland house in Uniontown. This old tavern is a stone building,
on the north side of the road, and the same that in after years became
celebrated as a resort for hog drovers, under the management of William
Sheets. It was kept as a tavern after Hoblitzell left it, and before the
time of Sheets, by Thomas Beall.
Two miles west from Negro Mountain Keyser's Ridge looms up in view. This
was a famous locality in the prosperous days of the road. It is a bald,
bleak range, not inaptly described as the back-bone of the mountains. It
is two thousand eight hundred and forty-three feet above sea level, and
the highest point on the road. In the olden time snow drifts often
accumulated to the depth of twenty feet on Keyser's Ridge, and stages
and wagons were compelled to take to the skirting glades to avoid them.
Francis McCambridge kept a tavern here as early as 1820, and was
succeeded by Robert Hunter, and he by James Stoddard, some time previous
to 1840. Hunter went from this house to Petersburg. James Stoddard was
the grandfather of Mrs. McClelland, of the McClelland house, Uniontown.
Stages stopped at Stoddard's, as well as wagoners and travelers of every
description. The log cabin boys of Uniontown stopped at Stoddard's the
first night out on their memorable trip to Baltimore, in 1840, to attend
the great Whig mass meeting of that year in that city. They had with
them, on wheels, a regular log cabin, well stored with refreshments of
every kind, and the very best; and every mile of their long journey
resounded with lusty shouts for "Tippecanoe and Tyler, too." E. B.
Dawson, esq., and Lucien B. Bowie, of Uniontown, are the only survivors
of that unique pilgrimage, so far as can be ascertained. The party
consisted of such distinguished and well remembered Whigs, of Uniontown,
as James Veech, Alfred Patterson, Rice G. Hopwood, Thomas R. Davidson,
Lee Haymaker, John Harvey, William McDonald, Robert L. Barry, James
Endsley, William E. Austin, E. B. Dawson and Lucien B. Bowie. There
were doubtless others, but owing to the long lapse of time their names
are not recalled. Redding Bunting drove the team that hauled the cabin,
and Thomas A. Wiley was with the party as an employe of the Stockton
stage line, which furnished four coaches for the transportation of the
political pilgrims. James Endsley was of the Somerfield family of
Endsleys, and died in that place in July, 1893. At Middletown, a short
distance east of South Mountain, in Maryland, the log cabin boys were
confronted with a petticoat suspended from a pole, which excited them to
rage. A collision and a fight ensued. John Harvey, the muscular man of
the log cabin boys, engaged a like representative of the other side, and
it is claimed, by the friends of Harvey, that he vanquished his
antagonist. It is not improbable that both sides claimed a victory. The
party reached Baltimore safely and on time, and were received in that
city with great enthusiasm. They were tendered a reception speech, which
was delivered by "The Milford Bard," a celebrated Baltimore poet and
orator of that day, and the speech responsive was made by William E.
Austin, who was a graceful orator, and his effort on this occasion was
one of his best. The Stoddard House, at Keyser's Ridge, was subsequently
and successively kept by Dennis Hoblitzell, William Fear, one of the
McCurdys, Adam Yeast and David Johnson, the latter the stepfather of
Mrs. McClelland, of the McClelland House, Uniontown, before mentioned,
who was born in this house when it was kept by her father, Dennis
Hoblitzell. William Fear owned the old Stoddard House, and sold it to
Perry Shultz, who conducted it as a tavern for a number of years, in
addition to the parties above named. William and Daniel Fear were
brothers. William, upon quitting the road, removed to Virginia, where he
lived to an old age and died. Daniel exchanged the mountains for the
rich valley of the Monongahela, and ended his days in Brownsville. In
1840 Truman Fairall built a house on Keyser's Ridge, and conducted it as
a tavern down to the year 1853, and a short time thereafter moved to the
State of Iowa, where he spent the remainder of his life. The Stockton
line of coaches stopped at Fairall's. Fairall was a native of Old
Virginia. Samuel Fairall, a son of Truman, the old tavern keeper, at one
time a student in the Dunlap's Creek Academy, near Merrittstown, Fayette
county, Pennsylvania, is a law judge in one of the courts of Iowa.
About half a mile west of Keyser's Ridge, and in the year 1850, John
Woods built a house and conducted it as a tavern until the close of
business on the road. He was an uncle of Henry, Thomas and Alexander
Woods, of Uniontown, and an old wagoner. Sandy Connor, the old
blacksmith of Keyser's Ridge, and occasionally a stage driver, retired
to an humble dwelling on the road side, opposite the Woods House, and
there in the depths of the mountains took final leave of the old road
and all its endearing memories.
Two miles west of Keyser's Ridge an old wagon stand tavern was kept by
Daniel Fear, before mentioned, who was the father of John G. Fear, who
kept the old Workman House, in Brownsville, a few years ago, George W.
Fear, formerly a wholesale liquor merchant in the same place, and Frank
Fear, who once kept the Yough House in Connellsville. The old Fear
tavern referred to was also at one time kept by Harvey Bane and by
William Carlisle, and later by David Johnson. It was a frame house on
the north side of the road. Within the venerable walls of this old
tavern, and amid the romantic walks about it, when it was kept by David
Johnson, Alfred McClelland, the renowned old tavern keeper of Uniontown,
wooed and won his bride, and here in 1856 was happily married to Miss
Sarah E. Hoblitzell, now, and for many years, a widow, and reigning
mistress of the old McClelland House, in Uniontown, one of the most
famous of all the far famed hostelries of the road.
About three-fourths of a mile west from the old Fear House, in later
years better known as the Bane House, James Reynolds established a
tavern as early as the year 1818, and continued to preside over it and
entertain the traveling public until the year 1843. It was a popular
wagon stand in its day. James Reynolds, its old proprietor, was the
father of William Reynolds, elsewhere mentioned as an old wagoner,
tavern keeper and express agent. Daniel Fear succeeded James Reynolds in
the old house mentioned, and conducted it for a term of four years. He
next moved to a wooden house about three hundred yards to the westward,
and kept it as a tavern for two years. This old house was built by Jacob
Frederic Augustine, and known as the Augustine House. From this old
house Daniel Fear moved to Sand Springs, and kept the old Hiram Sutton
house at that point for a term of two years, at the end of which he
moved to Brownsville, and died suddenly in Uniontown on July 7, 1854,
while on a business errand to that place. John Woods succeeded Fear in
the Augustine House.
Within a distance of one hundred yards westward from the old Reynolds
House, and in the year 1845, Henry Walters erected a wooden building and
embarked in the business of tavern keeping. After a brief experience in
this line, he removed to Hopwood, where he operated a blacksmith shop.
While in Hopwood, and from the savings of tavern keeping and
blacksmithing, he purchased the land on Dunbar's Camp, occupied it a
number of years, sold it at an advance to Dr. Waters, of the Soldiers'
Orphans' School, and with his added accumulations, bought the old
Grier-Brown farm on Redstone creek, in Franklin township, Fayette
county, Pennsylvania, founded the village of Waltersburg, and about two
years ago died, leaving his family a comfortable inheritance. He is well
remembered as an amiable, industrious and money accumulating citizen of
German origin.
CHAPTER XXX.
_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Winding Ridge to the Big
Crossings--The State Line--How it is Noted--The Old Stone Tavern on
Winding Ridge, John Welsh, Major Paul, The Wables, Edward C. Jones,
The Augustines, Daniel Blucher, Petersburg, Gen. Ross, William
Roddy, Gabriel Abrams, The Risler Family, Col. Samuel Elder, Robert
Hunter, John McMullin, Alfred Newlon, Lott Watson, John Mitchell,
John Bradfield, The Temple of Juno, The Big Crossings, Endsley's
Old Tavern, John Campbell, William Imhoff--An Old Time Fourth of
July Celebration._
From Baltimore to the point last mentioned in the preceding chapter, all
the old taverns on the road are in the State of Maryland. The road
crosses the dividing line between the States of Maryland and
Pennsylvania, near the eastern foot of Winding Ridge. The crossing point
is marked by a metal slab shaped like the ordinary mile post, and bears
this inscription on one side: "State Line, Md. 96-3/4 to Wheeling, to
Petersburg, 2-3/4." On the other side: "State Line, Penna. 34-1/4 to
Cumberland, to Frostburg, 23-1/4."
Near the top of Winding Ridge, and in Somerset county, Pa., there is an
old stone tavern which was built as early as the year 1819, and by John
Welsh, who occupied it and conducted it down to the year 1821, when it
passed to the management of Samuel Dennison, who was succeeded in turn
by M. J. Clark, Isaac Ochletree, Peter Yeast, Maj. William Paul, Michael
Cresap, Robert Boice and William Lenhart. John Welsh, who built this
house and first occupied it, was the father-in-law of Aden Clary, well
known in the early history of the road. Major Paul kept this house in
1836, and for some time thereafter. He subsequently kept a tavern in
Washington, Pa., on Maiden street, opposite the female seminary, and
later in West Brownsville, where he died more than forty years ago. He
was familiarly known from one end of the road to the other. Voluble in
speech, rotund in form, and ruddy in complexion, Major Paul was a fine
type of the jolly landlord of the old road. He had a daughter, the wife
of Aaron Wyatt, an old tavern keeper of the road, who always enjoyed the
reputation of keeping a good house, owing in all probability to the
early and practical training of his wife. Mrs. Patrick at one time owned
and occupied the old stone house on top of Winding Ridge. She was the
mother of W. W. Patrick, now, and for many years, the intelligent head
of the old reputable and successful banking house of R. Patrick & Co.,
of Pittsburg. About the year 1850 the stables, appurtenant to the old
stone tavern, above mentioned, and when it was kept by William Lenhart,
were destroyed by fire, supposed to have been the incendiary work of a
disreputable woman. The loss was serious, and included two fine horses,
the property of William Hall, the typical old regular wagoner,
hereinbefore mentioned. Winding Ridge derives its name from the tortuous
course of the old Braddock road up the mountain, at that point.
[Illustration: JOHN RISLER.]
At the foot of Winding Ridge, on the north side of the road, an old
wagon and drove stand was kept as early as the year 1820, by John Wable.
This old tavern keeper was probably well advanced in years when he first
put out his sign, and from this old house he was summoned to his last
account. He had two sons, John and Jacob, who succeeded him in the
management of the old tavern, as tenants in common. The sons applied
themselves assiduously to the business of entertaining the public, and
after a brief experience, concluded that their father's old house was
too small to meet the demands of the increasing trade and travel of the
road, and accordingly tore it down and erected a new and larger one in
its place. The new house attracted a paying business, and remains a well
known landmark of the road. In course of time the Wables left this
house, and their successor was Edward C. Jones, the grandfather, on the
maternal line, of Caleb and Noble McCormick, of Uniontown. This was more
than fifty years ago. Mr. Jones moved from this old house to Searights,
where he resided for a time, and subsequently located in New Salem,
where he died. The old Wable house next passed to the hands of Jonas
Augustine, who became its owner and conducted it as a tavern for many
years, doing a good business. While in charge of this old tavern he was
elected a member of the legislature of Pennsylvania for Somerset county,
and represented his constituents with recognized fidelity. He died soon
after his legislative career ended, and the old tavern was purchased by
his brother, Daniel Augustine, who kept it for many years, and until
tavern keeping on the road ceased to be profitable. Previous to the
occupancy of Daniel Augustine, this house was kept for brief periods
between 1840 and 1845, first by Michael Cresap, and after him by Joseph
Whetstone. Cresap went from this house to the stone house on Winding
Ridge. The widow of Jonas Augustine, well advanced in years, occupies
this old house at the present time, as a private residence, and Daniel
Augustine is a resident of Petersburg, and regarded as the richest man
in that town.
One mile west of Augustine's, Daniel Blucher kept a tavern as early as
1828. He was a German, and his custom consisted mainly of the patronage
of old wagoners. This house dropped from the roll of taverns long before
the great travel on the road ceased.
The ancient and picturesque village of Petersburg is the next point
reached on the westward march. Petersburg is noted for its healthful
location and the beauty of the surrounding scenery. It has always been a
popular resort for summer tourists seeking exemption from the stifling
heat of crowded cities. Here lives [G]Gen. Moses A. Ross, a retired
merchant, who did business in the village for fifty years, and gained
the confidence and enjoys the esteem of all his neighbors. A number of
years ago his fellow citizens elected him to the legislature, and he
served them intelligently, faithfully and honestly. He is a christian
gentleman, and his long and honest business career on the road entitles
him to be classed as a pike boy, well worthy of honorable mention.
General Ross was born in Masontown, Fayette Co., Pa., in the year 1810.
Here also lived for many years, and died, William Roddy, who was at one
time a superintendent of the road, and a gentleman of unquestioned
integrity. The first tavern ever kept in Petersburg was by Gabriel
Abrams, father of the late Judge Abrams, of Brownsville. It was a frame
house, on the south side of the road, and built by Gabriel Abrams,
aforesaid. This house did a large business throughout the entire career
of the road, as a national highway. Subsequent to the time of Abrams it
was conducted successively and successfully by John Skinner, Daniel
Clary (in 1830), William Reynolds, Thomas Brownfield, James Marlow,
Michael Cresap, Peter Turney, Joseph Hendrickson and Henry Magee. A
frame house on the north side, erected by Henry Wentling, was conducted
by him as a tavern from 1820 to 1829, when he leased it to John Risler,
a celebrated old tavern keeper, who kept at various points on the road
in the days of its glory. Mr. Risler was the father-in-law of the
venerable Harrison Wiggins, Brown Hadden, and the late Stephen W.
Snyder, and it is the tradition of the road that wherever a kitchen and
a dining room were controlled by a female member of the Risler family,
there a well cooked and relishable meal was sure to be obtained. Mr.
Risler was succeeded in the old Wentling house by James Connelly, and
he, in 1835, by the stalwart and popular old wagoner, Matthias Fry. Fry
remained in charge until the spring of 1838, when he turned it over to
John Bell, who was succeeded by his son-in-law, Col. Samuel Elder, who
remained in charge until some time late in the forties, when he moved to
Uniontown and took the management of the National house in that place.
In the year 1832 Robert Hunter opened a tavern in a brick house, on the
south side of the road and street, in Petersburg, and conducted it for
many years with marked success. Mrs. Hunter, the old and amiable hostess
of this house, is remembered as well for her good qualities as a
housekeeper as for her immense size. She weighed two hundred and fifty
pounds. This old house was subsequently kept by John A. Walker, John
McMullin, Alfred Newlon and Lott Watson, in the order given, and was
always well kept. The stage coaches of one of the early lines stopped at
this house, and it has been extensively patronized by summer visitors
and pleasure seekers. It was one of the very best eating houses on the
road, and is continued as a tavern to this day by Mr. Mitchell, who
holds a license and keeps a good house. John E. Reeside married a
step-daughter of John McMullin.
[Footnote G: Died December 12, 1893.]
[Illustration: THE TEMPLE OF JUNO.]
At a very early period in the road's history, John Mitchell kept a
tavern one mile west of Petersburg, on the north side. Besides doing a
general business, this old house was a station for the first line of
stages on the road. It was destroyed by fire on the 31st day of October,
1828, and supplied by a new log structure, which was kept as a tavern
for many years by John Mitchell, jr., who erected near the old site the
present large and substantial brick building in which he is now living,
one of the oldest men on the road. On the opposite side of the road from
this house immense stabling was erected, in after years supplemented by
cattle and hay scales, all of which are still standing, tending slightly
towards dilapidation and decay, but in a much better state of
preservation than most of the old stables of the road. There is a large
and fertile farm connected with this old tavern stand, well managed,
under the direction of its venerable owner, [H]John Mitchell.
[Footnote H: Died in 1892.]
A short distance west from Mitchell's, a large brick house on the north
side of the road, was kept as a tavern by John Bradfield in 1840, and
later. The locality was known as Newbury. John Bradfield was the general
agent of the first heavy freight line put on the road, moved by six
horse teams, stationed at intervals of fifteen miles. He was an old
wagoner, and a good business man, and before going to Newbury kept a
tavern in Wheeling and in Washington, Pennsylvania. After Bradfield's
retirement the Newbury house was continued as a tavern by Moses
Jennings.
Less than a mile west of Newbury, on the north side of the road, an old
building once used as a tavern, attracts special attention by reason of
the singular style of its architecture. It is a wooden structure,
commonly called a frame, with an unusually high portico in front,
supported by four round and tall wooden columns, tapering upward and
downward from the centers. It reminds one of the old pictures of the
temple of Juno, and possibly the designer had that ancient temple in
view when he planned this old tavern. He is said to have been a native
of the vicinity, not likely versed in the classic orders of
architecture, but the style he adopted in this instance might reasonably
be regarded as the Monogynous. Two immense stables appurtenant to this
old tavern, one log, the other frame, both still standing, weather
beaten, empty, and useless, bear silent, but impressive testimony to the
thrift of other days, and impart a tinge of melancholy to the memories
of the old pike. Daniel Show was the original owner of the quaint old
building above described, and its first occupant. He sold it to Samuel
Easter, who conducted it for a brief period, and was succeeded by Peter
Lenhart, mentioned hereinafter as "Shellbark." Samuel Thompson succeeded
Lenhart, and he in 1846 was succeeded by Mrs. Metzgar, who subsequently
became the wife of John Olwine.
[Illustration: THE ENDSLEY HOUSE.]