A few hundred yards west of the old Adams stand, and near the foot of

the river hill, on the river side, an old stone house was kept as a

tavern when the road was first opened, and for a number of years

thereafter. The first man who catered to the wants of the traveling

public at this old tavern was Vincent Owens, who had been a faithful

soldier in Washington's army in the war of the Revolution. The property

belonged to the old Krepps family of the vicinity, and the old tavern

stood at the northwest landing of the old Krepps ferry. Owens was

succeeded at this old tavern by Samuel Acklin, and Acklin by John

Krepps, a brother of Samuel J. Krepps. Morris Purcell succeeded Krepps,

and went from here to the old Adams House, before mentioned. The Krepps

ferry was operated in connection with the management of this old tavern,

and the ferry was continued down to the year 1845. The tavern was closed

here long before the decline of travel on the road. The father of

Vincent Owens was murdered in this old tavern while his son was

conducting it. The crime was an atrocious one, causing great excitement

and indignation in the neighborhood at the time, and the manner and

motives of the act seem to be shrouded in mystery. Two persons who

lodged in the house over night were suspected of the crime, but they

fled before the light of the morning and were never apprehended.

About two and one-half miles west of Krepps' Ferry an ancient hamlet

called by old pike boys Malden is reached. Here on the north side of the

road stands an old stone tavern, which in the palmy days of the road was

a popular stopping point. It belonged originally to the old Krepps

family, of Brownsville, and was designed and erected for a tavern. It

was evidently the belief of the old owners that a town would grow up on

this site, as they caused a stone in the front wall of the old tavern,

near the top, to be dressed and inscribed in cut letters with the name

Kreppsville. This name, however, was not adopted by the public, but the

place was, and continues to be known as Malden. The origin of this name

is not positively known, but tradition has it that a party of emigrants

encamping on the ground one night, fancying that it resembled the place

of their nativity, Malden, probably in the State of Massachusetts, gave

it that name. Be this as it may, Malden is the popular name of the

locality. The old tavern here was built in two sections and at different

dates. The original, which is now the western section, was built in

1822, and a dressed stone in its front wall bears that date. The second,

or eastern section, was built in 1830. It is the second section that

bears the name Kreppsville, above mentioned; and, in addition, the stone

slab disclosing this name shows the date 1830, also the word "Liberty,"

and the figure of a plow and sheaf of wheat. Bry Taylor was the first

person who kept the old tavern at Malden, and he was constantly busy

while there in attending to the wants of the traveling public. He had an

amiable and beautiful daughter, Kizzie, who was accidentally killed in

this house, causing great sorrow in the neighborhood. Her brother,

James, had been out hunting one day, and returning, placed his gun

negligently on a table. His sister, Miss Kizzie, besought him to

put the gun in a safe place, which he declined to do, remarking that "it

wouldn't hurt anybody where it was." Miss Kizzie did not share his

confidence in regard to the absence of danger, and proceeded to remove

the gun herself. Her brother interfered to prevent the gun's removal,

when a scuffle ensued between the parties, during which the gun was

discharged, and Miss Kizzie was fatally shot. The room in which this sad

affair occurred is still pointed out to visitors. As if by the law of

compensation, James Taylor, the brother, many years afterward was

himself shot. He became a river man, and gradually made his way to

points down the Ohio and Mississippi, and was finally shot and killed by

a United States Marshal near Memphis. Samuel Acklin followed Taylor in

the old tavern at Malden, and was favored with a large patronage,

consisting mainly of wagoners and drovers. Acklin was at this house as

early as 1836. Samuel Bailey succeeded Acklin, and Bailey was succeeded

in turn by William Pepper and William Garrett. James Britton, now and

for thirty years past, has owned this property. He occupies the old

tavern as a private residence, and operates the fertile farm attached to

it.

[Illustration: WILLIAM GREENFIELD.]

The next point west, distant about three miles, is Centreville. Moving

onward towards Centreville the traveler passes the old farms and

residences of Jonathan Knight, the famous civil engineer of other days,

and Nathan Pusey, father of Hon. W. H. M. Pusey, a leading banker,

Democratic politician and ex-member of Congress, of Council Bluffs,

Iowa. Another point of interest on this part of the line, is the old

historic Taylor church, which stands on the north side of the road, a

monument of the religious tendencies of the good old inhabitants of the

vicinity. Centreville was laid out in 1821, soon after the road was

completed, and with special reference to its completion, and the

anticipated prosperity to ensue by reason thereof. It is equi-distant

between Uniontown and Washington. The first old tavern kept in

Centreville was by John Rogers, father of the venerable Joseph T.

Rogers, of Bridgeport. It is a brick house, on the north side of the

road, still standing. Robert Rogers succeeded his father in this house

and kept it for many years, and died in possession. At brief intervals

in the lifetime of Robert Rogers this house was conducted by Solomon

Bracken, son-in-law of Mr. Rogers, and a Mr. Wilson, the latter

occupying it but for one year. The Rogers House was known and noted

throughout the entire period of the road's prosperous era as a quiet,

orderly, well kept tavern. The leading wagon stand in Centreville was on

the hill at the west end of town, a brick house, on the south side of

the road. The wagon yard was in the rear. Zephania Riggle kept this

house at an early day, and was succeeded in 1845 by Peter Colley, a

nephew of Abel Colley, before mentioned. Henry Whitsett came in after

Colley, and next Jacob Marks, who was followed by William Garrett, and

Jesse Quail succeeded Garrett. The property is now owned by Joseph B.

Jeffreys who keeps the old tavern open for the accommodation of

strangers and travelers. The house kept by Zeph Riggle on this site was

destroyed by fire during his incumbency, and promptly rebuilt. Battley

White, the celebrated manufacturer of the wagoner's black snake whip,

before mentioned, lived in Centreville. The house now occupied by Morris

Cleaver, on the hill west of Centreville, was at one time a tavern. It

was first kept by Charley Miller, then by Zeph Riggle, and next, in

1836, by Mrs. Dutton, mother of John R. Dutton, the well known,

reputable and prosperous merchant of Brownsville. Mrs. Dutton owned the

property, and moved from here to Brownsville, after which this old

tavern closed. Its career was somewhat brief, but it was a well kept

tavern, and had a good line of custom in its day.

About half a mile west from Mrs. Dutton's an old frame tavern, on the

north side of the road, as early as 1824, displayed the sign of the

CONSTITUTION, and entertained primitive travelers of the road. This old

house was kept for a while by one Johnson, but it long since disappeared

from view.

Eli Railley kept a tavern as early as 1830 in a brick house on the north

side of the road, about one and a half miles west of Centreville, and

was succeeded by the widow Welsh, who conducted it as a tavern as late

as 1850. This house is still standing, owned by Amos Cleaver, and

occupied by his son as a private residence.

Beallsville, distant one and a half miles from the old Railley tavern,

is next reached. In proceeding to Beallsville the traveler passes one of

the old toll houses, all of which, as before stated, are still standing,

and in good condition, except the one near Mt. Washington and the one on

Big Savage mountain. David Mitchell, the old collector at the gate near

Beallsville, is well remembered as a straightforward, honest and

intelligent citizen. Beallsville, like Centreville as a town, was the

outgrowth of the National Road. It was laid out in 1821, and

incorporated as a borough in 1852. Jonathan Knight, the old engineer

before mentioned, surveyed the site of the town and made the plat. The

National Road forms the main street of this town, as it does that of

Centreville. The first old tavern reached in Beallsville, going west,

was on the north side, at the east end of the town. This house was first

kept by Andrew Keys, and after him by Thomas Keys. This was previous to

1840. It was next kept by Robert Cluggage, and after Cluggage, James

Dennison kept it. Dennison was succeeded by Moses Bennington, who

afterwards kept the old Adams House at West Brownsville. Charles Guttery

also kept this house in 1854. Dennison was a Claysville man, and after

keeping tavern for short terms, at different points on the road,

returned to Claysville, where he died. He was an old wagoner, as well as

a tavern keeper, and well and favorably known on the road. He had an

interest by marriage, or birth-right, in some real estate at or near

Claysville, and this is doubtless the chord that drew him at last back

to that point. The old Keys tavern had a commodious wagon yard attached,

and entertained many old wagoners.

[Illustration: CHARLES GUTTERY.]

About the center of the town of Beallsville, and on the south or west

side, Wm. Greenfield kept a famous old tavern, and he was in many other

respects a famous old man. He was tall and spare, with a brown

complexion, a defective eye, and a philosophic turn of mind. It was his

fortune to have a good wife, and to her, in great measure, was

attributed the high grade of this old tavern. The traveler could always

get a good cup of coffee at Greenfield's, a rare thing in a tavern and

utterly unknown in a hotel. In addition to keeping tavern, William

Greenfield was a banker, and established the "Beallsville Savings Bank."

His bank was in his tavern, and his safe was his pocket. He issued notes

of small denominations, which were handsomely printed and engraved, and

they acquired some credit, and a limited circulation. The pressure of

redemption, however, was more than the old banker-tavern keeper could

withstand, and he was forced to close business as a banker, but

continued his tavern successfully. It is due to the memory of the old

gentleman to state, that no serious losses were sustained by the note

holders of his bank. He continued to keep tavern at the old stand until

his death, which occurred many years ago, and all the old pike boys,

from one end of the road to the other, have a kind word for the memory

of William Greenfield.

Charley Miller kept a tavern as early as 1830, and probably before that

date, in the brick house on the corner opposite Greenfield's, and this

house was subsequently, and for many years kept by Mrs. Chambers. It was

a quiet, orderly, and aristocratic old tavern, especially when under the

management of Mrs. Chambers, and enjoyed a good reputation as an eating

house. Benjamin Demon took charge of this house after the retirement of

Mrs. Chambers, and kept it for a while. Moses Bennington succeeded

Demon, and Charles Guttery succeeded Bennington. Guttery was the last of

the old line of tavern keepers, at this house. Beallsville was a station

for the line wagons, and John Cook, an old wagoner whose home was there,

drove a line team for many years.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Beallsville to

Washington--Hillsboro--The Old Hill House--Samuel Youman, next to

Old Mount the biggest man of the Road--George Ringland, John Noble,

Billy Robinson, Charley Miller's, The Gals House, Daniel Ward, Egg

Nog Hill, The Long Stretch, Thomas Hastings, The Upland House,

Joseph Doak, The Mount Vernon House, Maj. Dunlap, Charles Rettig,

Pancake, Jonathan Martin, The Sample House._

Three miles west from Beallsville the traveler reaches the village of

Hillsboro. This little town is another outgrowth of the National Road,

and as at Beallsville and Centreville, the road forms its main street.

The grade from Beallsville to Hillsboro is for the most part ascending,

the hill going out west from Beallsville being one of the longest on the

road, and Hillsboro is situate on a lofty eminence overlooking a wide

range of hills, and many fertile slopes and valleys. On the summit above

Hillsboro, the traveler coming east, gets the first glimpses of Laurel

Hill, thirty miles distant in the mountains. Crumrine's history of

Washington county, before quoted, informs us that Hillsboro was laid out

in the year 1819, a date coincident with the completion of the road. The

proprietors of the town were Stephen Hill and Thomas McGiffin, and

Crumrine's history contains the following notice of the first public

sale of lots:

"The public are informed that a town has been laid off, to be

called Hillsboro, adjoining Hill's stone tavern, about equal

distance from Washington to Brownsville, and that lots will be sold

on the premises on Monday, the 19th day of August, at public

auction. Sale to commence at 10 o'clock A. M.

July 19, 1819. STEPHEN HILL,

THOMAS MCGIFFIN,

Proprietors."

[Illustration: BILLY ROBINSON.]

Accompanying the plat of the town as recorded, says Crumrine, were these

remarks: "The above is a plan of the town of Hillsboro, nearly

equi-distant between Brownsville and Washington, Pennsylvania, on the

United States road." Signed by the proprietors. Stephen Hill belonged to

an old family of that name, which was among the early settlers of the

region, and Thomas McGiffin was an old and prominent lawyer of

Washington, and a contractor on the original construction of the road,

father of Col. Norton McGiffin, a soldier of two wars, and Sheriff and

member of the Legislature for Washington county. Hill's stone tavern

was in existence as early as 1794. In the early history of the National

Road, and for a number of years, it was the leading tavern of Hillsboro,

kept by Thomas Hill, who was not a son, but a near relative, probably a

nephew, of Stephen Hill, the old proprietor. Samuel Youman kept this

house fifty years ago, after the retirement of Hill. Youman was a stage

driver as well as a tavern keeper, and next to "Old Mount," as before

stated, the biggest man on the road. One of the stage lines, that on

which Youman was a driver, stopped at this house, and it was the only

stage house on the road that was largely patronized by old wagoners, and

their favor was obtained probably by reason of the spacious and

commodious wagon yard in front of the house. John Hampson, John Gibson,

William Dawson and Oliver Lacock each in turn kept this house since

Youman's time, and it is at present continued as a tavern by Mr.

Lacock's son.

In the year 1827 James Beck kept a tavern in Hillsboro. He was a member

of the old bridge builders firm of Kinkead, Beck & Evans, and moved from

the "Vance farm," near Uniontown, which he once owned, to Hillsboro, at

the date named. He remained in Hillsboro but one year, and his successor

in the tavern there was George Ringland. Ringland was a citizen of some

prominence in his day, a brother of Col. Thomas Ringland, an old

soldier, and a leading man in the public affairs of Washington county

more than half a century ago. David Railly succeeded Ringland in this

house about the year 1840. It was a stage house, but did a general

business. After Railly this house was kept at different times by John

Noble, who married Railly's widow, John Taylor, Henry Taylor, Jesse Core

and William Robinson. Noble and Robinson were both old stage drivers,

Noble before, as well as after his experience as a tavern keeper.

Robinson died a tavern keeper, and in the house last mentioned. "Billy"

Robinson was one of the best known and most popular men of the road. He

was short in stature, with reddish complexion, dark hair, and an amiable

disposition. He hauled many an old-time statesman safely in his nimble

coach, and afterward dined him sumptuously in his bountiful tavern.

There was an old tavern in Hillsboro, near the centre of the town, on

the south side of the road, kept first by John Wilson, and after his

time by Stephen Phelps, and next and last by David Powell. Its career

was not as long as many other old taverns of the road, but in its time

it was a lively house and had a large run of custom. Zeph Riggle kept a

tavern in what is known as the Dr. Clark house, on the south side, in

Hillsboro, at an early day, and as at other points on the road where he

catered to the wants of the traveling public, drew a good trade. He was

the only person that ever kept this house as a tavern.

About two miles west of Hillsboro the famous old tavern of Charley

Miller is reached. It is a large and handsome brick building on the

south side of the road, and was kept before Miller's time by Henry

Taylor. Miller did a large business, and had all sorts of customers,

with a capacity to adapt himself to the wants and whims of every

variety. He was accustomed to say, in commendation of his whisky, that

it was a hundred years old; that he could vouch for its age, for he

helped to make it. Parties of young folks were accustomed to drive out

from Washington, a distance of ten miles, to take a meal and have a

dance at Charley Miller's. His meals were sumptuous and savory, and gave

his house a reputation from which he did not fail to profit. One of his

specialties was fine peach brandy, which is graciously remembered and

frequently spoken of by the survivors of the old pike boys with a glow

of enthusiasm. Miller died in this house, and it passed to the hands of

David Ullery.

"No longer the host hobbles down from his rest

In the porch's cool shadow, to welcome his guest

With a smile of delight and a grasp of the hand,

And a glance of the eye that no heart could withstand."

One and a half miles west of Charley Miller's, on the south side of the

road, a tavern was kept in a wooden building many years ago by William

Plymire. This old tavern furnished good entertainment, and its old host

was attentive and polite to his patrons. Plymire was succeeded in this

house by Henry Yorty, who kept it going as a tavern until his death, and

for some time thereafter it was kept by his widow, but was never kept as

a tavern after Mrs. Yorty's time.

The next old wagon stand on the westward tramp is the "Gals House." This

house is situate on the north side of the road, about two miles west of

Charley Miller's. It is a frame building, and once was painted red, but

the red all wore off many years ago, and was not replaced. It was called

the "Gals House," because it was owned and conducted by three maiden

women of the family name of Dague. The grounds around this old house,

night after night, throughout the entire period of the road's

prosperity, were crowded with teams and wagons, and the reputation of

the place was excellent in every particular. The Dague girls were the

owners of the house, and of about eighty acres of rich land surrounding

it, and after business closed on the road, they sold and conveyed the

property to Joseph Henderson, a well remembered and worthy old stage

driver, who went into possession and made this place his home for many

years.

[Illustration: DANIEL WARD.]

One mile further west is Ward's. Here a well known tavern was kept by

Daniel Ward, all through the flourishing era of the road, and it was

well kept and well patronized. Ward was rich, the owner of his tavern

stand, and a fine farm in addition, and therefore unlike many other old

tavern keepers of the road who leased their houses from year to year,

and changed from point to point at different times. Ward's tavern is a

large frame house, on the north side of the road, with a spacious porch

in front, and a large wagon yard conveniently attached, and was a

favorite stopping place for old wagoners. The old house is still

standing, unused, because not needed as a tavern, but it remains a

prominent landmark of the road, carrying the mind back to the period

of its enlivening scenes and moving pageants. Daniel Ward was a

pronounced type of the old tavern keeper. He was rather a large man, not

fleshy, but broad shouldered, with a slight stoop. His complexion was

reddish, and he always had a pleasant smile wherewith to greet a guest.

He wore a broad-rimmed, high-crowned, brown-colored fur hat, with long,

soft nap, the style of hat worn by all old tavern keepers and wagoners

when dressed for special occasions. Mrs. Ward was an admirable help-mate

for her husband. She was a large woman, of florid complexion, and full

of energy and zeal in her occupation. The meals she spread before her

numerous guests in all seasons were bountiful and relishable, and gave

her husband's old tavern a wide reputation. What a change? Once all was

life and animation at this old tavern, now

"The wind whistles shrill, through the wide open doors,

And lizards keep house, on the mouldering floors."

Four miles west from Ward's the old and popular wagon stand of Thomas

Hastings is reached. In proceeding onward toward the Hastings House a

celebrated point is passed, known in the peculiar vocabulary of the road

as "Egg Nog Hill." On this hill for many years lived in retirement

Samuel Flowers, one of the oldest, steadiest and best known wagoners of

the road. William D. Evans, residing in Malvern, Iowa, a son of Gabriel

Evans, of the old firm of Kinkead, Beck & Evans, contractors and bridge

builders, before mentioned, furnishes the following story as to the

origin of the name of this hill: The engineers in locating the line of

the road were much exercised in fixing the grade at this point, and

before arriving at conclusions the sun went down, and with a view

probably of stimulating their minds to clearer conceptions, they ordered

a bucket of egg-nog to be served in their shanty. Partaking freely of

this ancient, agreeable and strong beverage during the night, they

proceeded next morning with the work in hand, and established the grade

without further embarrassment. The chain carriers and other employees

were called in to the rough, roadside banquet, and the region all around

echoed the notes of that night's revelry, and ever thereafter the

locality has been known as "Egg Nog Hill." If this is a true account of

the origin of the name, and the authority quoted is respectable and

credible, there are many persons willing to aver that the influence of

the egg nog was anything but propitious, since the grade of the road at

this point is nothing to boast of. At the foot of Egg Nog Hill a valley

is reached over which the road passes for a distance of two miles on a

level grade, varied by slight undulations, terminating at or near the

old Buchanan postoffice. This portion of the road was called by old

stage drivers "The Long Stretch," and over its favorable grade stage

teams sped with more than ordinary rapidity. It is considered germaine

to state in this connection, that the general grade of the road has been

much and sharply criticised, and by many condemned outright. The main

point of objection urged against the grade is, that it involves many

long and steep hills, which could have been avoided by making side cuts

and occupying the valleys, and this is true, but any other location

would have lengthened the line and increased the cost of construction

and maintenance. David Shriver, of Cumberland, was the chief engineer in

charge of the location, and instructed by the Government to make the

line as straight as practicable, within the limit of a five degree

elevation. Besides, there was a popular theory when the line was

located, that a road over hills was not as fatiguing to horses as a road

with a uniform grade. It was argued that a horse is provided with two

sets of muscles, one of which is used in going up and the other in going

down a hill, and the conclusion was that horses were relieved and rested

by a change from an up to a down grade. After this digression, the

reader's attention is invited back to the old tavern of Thomas Hastings.

It is situate on the summit of a hill of average length and grade on the

south side, and a short distance back from the road. The location of

this house, with reference to the road, is similar to that of the old

red tavern, two miles east of Brownsville. The Hastings House was a

leading tavern of the road, all through its prosperous era. The large

patronage it enjoyed is the best evidence that it was well kept.

John W. McDowell, of Uniontown, an ex-County Commissioner of Fayette

county, Pennsylvania, was working on the road in 1844 under the

superintendency of William Searight, and boarding at the Hastings House.

On the morning of the election of that year he rose "bright and early,"

took his breakfast "before the break of day," mounted a horse, and rode

to Mt. Washington, the polling place for Wharton township, which was his

home, in time to vote for Polk and Dallas. McDowell frequently relates

this incident of his life, when recounting his party services, and lays

particular stress on the circumstance that the dining room girls gladly

furnished him his breakfast and cheered him on his mission. The distance

from the old Hastings tavern to Mt. Washington is forty-two miles.

While the road was undergoing construction, there was a tavern about

midway of the "Long Stretch," and on the south side of the road. It was

kept by one Smith, of the extensive American family of that name. At

times there was great disorder and much tumult, amounting almost to

riot, at this old tavern, and on one of these occasions the old militia

of Washington county was ordered to the scene to enforce the keeping of

the peace. These disorders, like similar outbreaks of the present day,

were no doubt attributable to the immoderate use of intoxicants.

[Illustration: JOHN W. McDOWELL.]

Within a few hundred feet, and west of the old Hastings house, Samuel

Hughes kept a tavern in 1844 and before, and probably a short time after

that date. His house was a large and imposing frame building on the

north side of the road, and known in its day as the "Upland House." This

name appeared on the sign board. The surroundings of this house were

attractive. It had an aristocratic air about it, and enjoyed an

aristocratic patronage. While old wagoners crowded the Hastings

House, travelers in chaises and fine carriages stopped at the Upland. By

some means, and many years ago, this old house was demolished, and a

fine brick building erected on its site, owned and occupied by Joseph

Doak, who was at one time a superintendent of the road.

About one and a half miles west of the Upland House, Major James Dunlap,

at a very early period of the road's history, kept a tavern on the south

side, on an elevation and a little distance back from the roadside. It

was called the "Mt. Vernon House," and was doing business as early as

the year 1816, two years before the road was completed as far west as

Washington. Major Dunlap was a prominent man of his day, and brigade

inspector of the Washington county (Pennsylvania) militia, an office of

no little consequence in the early history of Pennsylvania. Major Dunlap

subsequently kept the Jackson House in Washington, Pennsylvania. Before

reaching the Mt. Vernon House, an old round toll house is passed, where

William Hill collected tolls for many years from the throngs of

travelers on the road. The old Mt. Vernon House was supplanted by a new

one, under the direction of Charles Rettig, who became the owner of the

property. The new house is a brick structure, and was a wagon stand.

There was an abundant water supply at this house, and old stage drivers

and wagoners halted upon reaching it to refresh their teams. Charles

Rettig died about the year 1860. He was a staunch and sturdy citizen,

and possessed the confidence and enjoyed the respect of all his

neighbors.

The next point west, but a short distance, is invested with more than

ordinary interest. It is Pancake, sometimes called Martinsburg, and in

later years, to a limited extent, known as Laboratory. But Pancake was

the original, and remains the popular name. It is almost within eyesight

of Washington. The first tavern here was kept by George Pancake, and

hence the name given the place. His house was a small log building,

erected near the beginning of the present century, and probably the

first house in the village. Pancake did well with the means at his

command, but his old house was not equal to the growing wants of the

road, and after it was removed, and the old proprietor called to his

final reckoning, Jonathan Martin appeared on the scene. Martin was a

discerning man, and foreseeing the future of the National Road as a

great highway, built a large brick house for use as a tavern. It is

situate on the north side of the road, two stories, twelve large and

comfortable rooms, and was erected in the year 1825. A spacious porch

runs the entire length of the house and approaches the edge of the road.

Jonathan Martin kept this tavern from the date of its erection until

business closed on the road, with the exception of one year that it was

in charge of J. W. Holland, back in the forties. Since the close of its

career as a tavern it has been occupied as a quiet farm house. Martin

was a genial landlord, and made money at tavern keeping. A short

distance back from the tavern he had a horse-power grist mill and a

carding machine which he operated for a number of years, thus

supplementing his gains as a tavern keeper. General Jackson was on one

occasion a guest of Martin's tavern, and the celebrated theologian,

Alexander Campbell, frequently lodged within its venerable walls and sat

at its bounteous table.

As early as 1824 George Ringland kept a wagon stand tavern within a

short distance of the borough limits of Washington. His old house, a

commodious brick building, is still standing, situate on the north, or

at this point rather, east side of the road, with sufficient ground

intervening to form a good wagon yard. John Sample succeeded Ringland at

this old stand, and became the owner of the property. It is now the

private residence of William Workman, esq., and has not been kept as a

tavern since 1844.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

_Old Tavern and Tavern Keepers continued--Washington--Washington and

Jefferson College--The Female Seminary--James Wilson, first Tavern

Keeper in Washington--The two Dodds--Major McCormick's--The White

Goose and the Golden Swan--Hallam's Old Wagon Stand--The

Valentine--The Buck--The Gen. Andrew Jackson--The Globe--The Cross

Keys--The Indian Queen--The Mermaid--The Rising Sun--The Gen.

Brown--The Fountain--Billy Brown and Jimmy Brown--The Mansion--John

N. Dagg--A Giant Boot Jack--The American--The Fulton--The

National--Surratt's--The Greene House._

Washington became a point on the National Road by force of a provision

in the act of Assembly of Pennsylvania, approved April 9th, 1807, before

recited. In a retrospective view that seems to have been a wise

provision. Washington, it is true, is older than the road, but without

the road it would be difficult to conjecture what the history of the

town would have been from 1818 down to 1852. That the road had much to

do in promoting the growth and prosperity of the town, there can be no

question, and it must also be conceded that the town contributed in good

round measure to the life and prosperity of the road. Washington is one

of the largest and prettiest towns on the road, not as well favored by

location as Uniontown. While Washington possesses many very important

advantages, it has at the same time, like other towns, its

disadvantages. For example, it is a dry town. It was not dry in the

palmy days of the old pike. No liquor can at this time be lawfully sold

in Washington as a beverage, and the town is not over abundantly

supplied with good water. On the other hand, the town is justly

distinguished for the superiority of its educational institutions.

Washington and Jefferson college is one of the best in the land. Its

graduates include many of the ablest men of the country, both of the

present and the past. Everywhere, at every loading point in our widely

extended Republic, the graduates of Washington and Jefferson College are

pushing ahead at the front, in all the learned professions, in the

judiciary, and in every line of honorable industry. It is not a dude

college, as many more pretentious colleges are, but a working college,

sending out workers, equipped like men, to run the race set before them.

The Female Seminary is another institution of which the citizens of

Washington are justly proud. It stands in the front rank of similar

institutions, and for more than half a century, year after year, has

sent out its graduates to cheer and brighten the world.

The writer of these lines confesses to an affection for Washington,

which no vicissitude of life or time can alienate. He was educated at

her college, and if he failed in obtaining a thorough education, it was

not the fault of his venerable _alma mater_. Dr. David McConoughy, who

presided over the college, when the writer was a student within its

halls, deserves to be classed among the Saints. A purer man never lived.

He was a Christian, who never entertained a doubt, and a scholar in the

broadest sense; and it is most gratifying to the thousands of graduates

and friends of the college scattered broadcast throughout the land, to

know that Dr. Moffatt, the present head of the institution, is a worthy

successor of that venerated president. The writer also retains the

sweetest recollections of the old citizens of Washington, and cherishes

with deepest feeling his associations at college with James G. Blaine,

who subsequently became the most illustrious statesman of his

generation, and many others who have written their names high on the

scroll of fame.

There may be some readers inclined to think that the blending of stage

drivers and wagoners with doctors, teachers and statesmen, is a strange

commingling; but it is not. History is literature, and stage drivers and

wagoners, like other classes, and occupations of men, enter into the web

and woof of history.

James Wilson hung out the first tavern sign in Washington. His house was

a log structure, and stood at the northwest corner of Main and Beau

streets, now covered by Smith's store. He opened up business in 1781,

and was licensed by the court to dispense the ardent at "Catfish Camp."

He continued business in this house down to the year 1792. The old

Supreme Judges stopped at Wilson's tavern when they went to Washington

to hold the courts of Oyer and Terminer. Whether they were fed on roast

pig, as Chief Justice McKean at Salter's old tavern in Uniontown, does

not appear of record. After Wilson's time this house was enlarged and

otherwise improved, and continued as a tavern by Michael Ocheltree, who

remained in charge down to the year 1812, when a man of the name of

Rotroff was installed as host. Rotroff gave way to John Kline, who came

up from the Cross Roads, nine miles west of Brownsville, and took charge

of the house, under the sign of "Gen. Wayne." Capt. John McCluney

followed Kline, and he in turn was followed by Joseph Teeters and Joseph

Hallam. Hallam kept the house until probably 1840, when he went down

town to take charge of the old wagon stand on the site of the present

Valentine House. When Hallam left it the old Wilson House ceased to be a

tavern.

As early as 1782 John Dodd kept tavern in a log house on the east side

of Main street, nearly opposite the court house, and remained its host

until his death in 1795. He died while returning home from a trading

trip to New Orleans. John Wilson next took charge, and conducted its

affairs for many years, associated with stirring events, down to a

period as late probably as 1835, when the house disappeared as a tavern.

John Dodd was an ancestor of the numerous Dodds now of Washington and

vicinity, most of whom have taken to the ministry and other learned

professions.

Charles Dodd, a brother of John, above mentioned, kept a tavern on Main

street in 1782, in a log house, recently occupied by Robert Strean's

hardware store. The first courts of Washington county were held in this

old tavern, and the county jail was a log stable in the rear of the lot

on which it stood. Charles Dodd kept this tavern for ten years, and sold

out to Daniel Kehr, who continued it a short time, but finding it

unprofitable, took down his sign and went to shoemaking.

John Adams kept a tavern from 1783 to 1789. Its location is not

accurately known, and so in the case of John Colwell, a tavern keeper of

1784. In 1785 Hugh Means, Samuel Acklin and William Falconer, were

tavern keepers in Washington. Acklin continued in the business until

1788, and Falconer until 1791. William Meetkirk, who was subsequently a

justice of the peace for many years, kept a tavern on Main street from

1786 to 1793, in the house until recently occupied by Mrs. McFarland,

and it is not unlikely that this is the house kept by Colwell and Means.

Maj. George McCormick kept a tavern in 1788, and Col. John May's journal

compliments it by this entry: "Thursday, Aug. 7, 1788, set out from the

hotel at four o'clock, and at half-past eight arrived at Maj. George

McCormick's in Washington, where we breakfasted. This is an excellent

house, where New England men put up." The writer regrets his failure to

ascertain the exact location of this old tavern.

Hugh Wilson (son of James) kept a tavern in Washington in 1789, and John

McMichael in 1790, the locations of which are not now ascertainable.

Charles Valentine kept the "White Goose" in 1791. This house stood on

the lot now covered by the Valentine House. The name Valentine is

prominently identified with the National Road from the date of its

construction to the present time. The "White Goose" was the symbol under

which this old tavern sailed until the year 1806, when it assumed the

more poetic name of "Golden Swan," under the management of John Rettigg.

Rettigg was relieved from its cares and responsibilities in 1810 by

Juliana Valentine, who presided over its destinies down to the year

1819. It next passed to the control and management of James Sargeant,

who kept it for a brief period, and turned it over to John Valentine and

Lewis Valentine, who continued it down to 1825. It was next kept for two

years by John Hays. In 1827 it was kept by Isaac Sumny, under the sign

of the "Washington Hall." It was kept by Samuel Donley and various other

persons, down to about the year 1840, when as before stated, it passed

to the control of Joseph Hallam. In Hallam's time it was a popular wagon

stand, and did a large business. Hallam was a man below the medium

size, a little stooped, and of quiet demeanor. He had a good wagon yard,

and catered to the tastes of old wagoners in an agreeable manner. The

happiest moments of Amos Waltz were those in which he inserted the gear

pole between the spokes of the hind wheel of a road wagon, as it stood

on Hallam's yard, and afterward took a drink with the jolly wagoners in

Hallam's old bar-room. In 1847 or 1848 the present Valentine House was

built, and kept for many years thereafter by Maj. Geo. T. Hammond. It

was also kept a while by ex-Sheriff Andrew Bruce, afterward by

ex-Sheriff Hugh Keys, and later and until a recent date by William F.

Dickey, and is now called the "Allison House."

In 1791 Michael Kuntz kept a tavern where Vowell's drug store stands.

This house was kept in 1797 by John Scott, under the sign of the "Spread

Eagle." I. Neilson, John Fisher, Samuel McMillen, and John Ferguson,

were all old tavern keepers of Washington.

Joseph Huston kept the "Buck Tavern" as early as 1796. This is a stone

house on the east side of Main street, below Maiden. Huston kept this

house until 1812, and died in it. His widow succeeded him for a brief

period, and leased the house to James Sargeant, who kept it until 1815,

when Mrs. Huston again went in, and kept it until 1820. She afterward

re-married, lost her second husband, and was keeping this house in 1838

as Elizabeth Fleming, and it was continued after that date by her son,

William B. Huston. The old Buck is still standing, one of the landmarks

of the town.

In 1797 James Workman kept a tavern, the site of which is not known. He

continued until 1813, when he went to farming. After three years'

experience in farming he returned to town, and opened a tavern under the

sign of "Gen. Andrew Jackson." This old tavern stood on the west side of

Main street, below the "Globe Inn." It was subsequently kept by Maj.

James Dunlap of the old Mt. Vernon House, east of Pancake.

From 1798 to 1806 Dr. John J. Lemoyne kept a tavern on the south side of

Main street, where an old road came down over Gallows Hill. This house

was afterward kept by Jacob Good, and continued for a number of years by

his widow.

The "Globe Inn" was one of the most famous old taverns in Washington. It

was located on the west side of Main street, at the corner of Strawberry

alley. This house was opened as a tavern in 1797, and in the next year

passed to the hands of David Morris, and was kept by him, continuously,

until his death in 1834. General LaFayette was entertained at this house

in 1825, and it was a favorite stopping place of Henry Clay, and many

other statesmen and heroes of the olden time. This old tavern was a

frame building, and remained standing until 1891. Rev. William P.

Alrich, an old and popular professor of mathematics in Washington

college, married a daughter of David Morris.

One Fox kept a tavern, at an early period, in a house that stood on the

east side of Main street, where the Morgan Block now stands.

The "Cross Keys" was a popular tavern of the olden time. It stood on the

southeast corner of Main and Wheeling streets, opposite the Valentine

House. It was opened in 1801 by James McCamant, who kept it until his

death, which occurred in 1813. Tradition has it that he died from the

effects of a bite by a mad wolf. His widow continued it for about two

years, when she quit it to take charge of the "General Washington

House," nearly opposite the court house. She returned, however, after a

time to the "Cross Keys," and was keeping that house as late as 1831. In

the year last named she caused to be inserted in a town paper a notice

that she furnished dinner and horse feed for twenty-five cents, and

boarding and lodging for jurors and others attending court for two

dollars a week. The "Cross Keys" was kept afterward at different dates

by James Sargeant, Charles Rettig, John Bradfield, William Blakely and

Otho Hartzell. It closed as a tavern previous to 1844. James McCamant,

the first proprietor of the "Cross Keys" tavern, was the father-in-law

of Joseph Henderson, esq., a prominent and popular old lawyer of

Washington.

Christian Keiffer kept a tavern in 1805 at the sign of "Washington."

Keiffer's career as a tavern keeper must have been a brief and an

uninteresting one, since old inhabitants are unable to locate his house,

although it bore a name that should and does survive, in every other

form except in its application to Keiffer's old tavern.

John Kirk kept a tavern about the beginning of the present century in a

house that stood on Wheeling street, west of Main. This house was

painted red and penciled to imitate brick. After Kirk left it William

Wilson became its proprietor. He was known as "Center Billy." He did not

find tavern keeping sufficiently profitable, and quitting the business,

turned his attention to blacksmithing and wagon making. The old name of

Wheeling street was "Belle," and the present name was given it by the

old stage drivers and wagoners, because it intersected the old road

leading to Wheeling.

The "Indian Queen" was an old and well remembered tavern on Main street,

opposite the court house. It was opened in 1808 by John McCluny. In 1815

it changed its location and solicited public patronage on Main street,

above Chestnut, where Justice Donehoe's residence now is, under the

auspices of its old founder, John McCluny aforesaid. In its new location

it became the headquarters of the Jackson Democracy. This house was kept

by Thomas Officer, and was known as the "Green Tree," before McCluny

placed it under the shield of the "Indian Queen." It was afterward

occupied by John Johnson, who kept it for a number of years, and it

ceased to do business as a tavern during his occupancy.

About the year 1820 John Manuel kept a tavern in a white frame house on

the west side of Main street, immediately below the present depot of the

Baltimore & Ohio railroad.

There was an old tavern in Washington at an early day kept by Jacob

Moler, and known as "The Mermaid." It was located on the south side of

West Wheeling street, and on the lot now owned by Charles Driehorst. It

was the headquarters of the Hibernians, and while it did not aspire to

rival the "Globe" or the "Rising Sun," it was not lacking in patronage.

It does not appear to have been continued as a tavern after the time of

Moler.

The "Rising Sun," a leading tavern in its day, occupied a lot near the

corner of Main and Chestnut streets, almost directly opposite the house

subsequently known as "The Mansion." The first proprietor of the "Rising

Sun" was James Garrett, and he remained in charge until 1822. He was

active in his business, and accustomed to say, "Walk in, walk in,

gentlemen; I keep a decent house, and provide sweetened bitters." James

Briceland kept this house for one year, after which he turned it back to

Garrett, who continued to keep it until it passed to the hands of John

N. Dagg, who kept it until he purchased the "Mansion House," on the

opposite corner. It is said that one hundred teams have been seen

standing around the "Rising Sun" in a single night. Briceland went down

to the lower end of town and took charge of the house subsequently known

as "The National." In 1823 while Dagg was keeping the "Rising Sun," a

townsman and an old wagoner had an altercation in the bar-room, and Dagg

pitched them both out into the street. In the descent the wagoner's head

struck the curb-stone, fatally injuring him. Mr. Dagg was prosecuted and

arraigned for murder in consequence, but acquitted by the jury on the

ground that the homicide was more the result of accident, than any

intention to kill. During the brief term of Mr. Briceland at the "Rising

Sun" he had as guests on one occasion, Gen. Andrew Jackson, family and

suite. The distinguished party were _en route_ to Washington City, and

upon departing from the "Rising Sun" were honored by an escort of

citizens of Washington as far east as Hillsboro.

In 1821 Enoch Miller opened a tavern in a large brick house at the west

end of town, nearly opposite the old Methodist church, which stood on

Chestnut street, a little below Franklin. He called his house the

"General Brown," and it was well patronized. Richard Donaldson kept this

house after Miller's time. Upon quitting the "General Brown" Enoch

Miller opened the "Fountain Inn," a brick building nearly opposite and a

few doors east of the "General Brown," on Chestnut street, and he was

succeeded in this house in 1825 by George Ringland. William P. Byles was

an old proprietor of this house also.

William J. Brown, called "Old Billy," kept a tavern as early as 1832,

and for many years thereafter, on the east side of Main street near the

center of town. It was a frame building and had a fair paying custom. It

was known for a time as the "Farmers' Inn," and later as the "Black

Bear." The old proprietor was a quaint character, and much pestered by

the boys of the town. With all his troubles and tribulations he managed

to lay aside a sufficiency of worldly goods to protect himself against

the requirements of a rainy day.

[Illustration: S. B. HAYS.]

And there was old "Jimmy Brown," another odd character, not a relation

of "Billy." Jimmy was an Irishman, and knew how to make and keep money.

He kept a tavern for many years in a white frame house opposite the

court house, and near the "Fulton." He called his house "The Franklin."

His savings were sufficient to warrant him in tearing down his old house

and erecting in its stead a fine new brick structure, which he did.

After building his new house he married a wife, and was warmly

congratulated by his numerous friends. With the assistance of his wife

he continued to entertain the public until his death, leaving the cares

and anxieties of his business to his bereaved widow, who soon after

remarried and retired to private life. The house is now used for

mercantile purposes, one of the best locations in town. Jimmy Brown,

when occupying his old house, was accustomed to say to his friends: "I

have some nice _fesh_, come away to the cellar with me, and see my

_fesh_." He had no license then.

The Mansion House was a leading tavern in Washington from the time it

commenced business until it was destroyed by fire, which occurred after

the National Road ceased to be a great thoroughfare. It was located on

the northeast corner of Main and Chestnut streets. Before the "Mansion

House" was built an old red frame house stood on this corner, which was

kept as a tavern by a man whose surname was Scott. John N. Dagg bought

this property prior to his withdrawal from the "Rising Sun," on the

opposite corner, and commenced to improve it. The outcome of his

enterprise was the erection of a large brick building, known as the

Mansion House, with extensive sheds and stables in the rear. About the

year 1834 Mr. Dagg leased the premises to John Irons, who conducted the

house for a period of two years, after which Mr. Dagg returned as

landlord, and continued to keep it down to the year 1844, or thereabout,

when he leased it to S. B. and C. Hayes, who conducted it for a brief

period, and were succeeded by Bryson and Shirls, subsequently of the St.

Charles Hotel, Pittsburgh. The Good Intent line of stages gave its

patronage to the "American," when that house was kept by the Messrs.

Hayes, and to the "Greene House," when it was kept by Daniel Brown.

Thereafter the headquarters of that line were at the Mansion House, and

it was headquarters for the Pilot line when the Good Intent stopped at

the "American." The Mansion House had a large country trade, as well as

that derived from the National Road. The old bar room was of immense

size, and the old proprietor, John N. Dagg, was one of the largest men

on the road. He was not fat, but tall, and widely proportioned. He

provided for his country guests a large upright boot jack, with side

bars, which acted as levers, designed to steady the toe in the operation

of drawing off a boot. Half cut, cheap leather slippers were also

provided, and upon pulling their boots, guests put on these slippers,

and in the mornings, piles of boots, nicely polished, were placed in a

corner of the bar room, to await the return of their owners from the

slumbers of the night. It was not an uncommon thing to see scores of

country people sitting about in the big bar room after supper, talking

over the events of the day, all wearing the slippers referred to,

preparatory to going to rest for the night, at the early bed time of

that happy period. James K. Polk, wife and suite, stopped at the Mansion

House on the inaugural trip in 1845. The "Examiner," under date of

February 15, 1845, gave the following account of the reception of the

distinguished party: "President Polk arrived in our borough on Monday

evening last, about 5 o'clock, escorted by quite a respectable number of

our citizens. The President was accompanied by his lady, J. Knox Walker,

his private secretary, and Master Marshall Polk, comprising the

President's family; also Colonel Butler, of Kentucky, Judge Hubbard, of

Alabama, and Messrs. T. K. Stevenson, J. G. Harris and J. N. Esselman.

The arrival of the President having been sooner than was anticipated,

and intelligence of the same having reached us on Sabbath last, the

arrangements on the part of our citizens were not so complete or

extensive as they would have been under other and more favorable

circumstances. Upon the arrival of the President at the Mansion House he

was addressed by Dr. Wishart, as chairman of the committee of reception,

in a spirited and appropriate manner, to which the President responded,

to the evident gratification of the large assembly of persons who were

present. In the course of his remarks Colonel Polk alluded to the

unbounded feeling of gratitude which filled his bosom for the

distinguished partiality which had been extended toward him by his

fellow citizens; to the great responsibility which that partiality had

devolved upon him; to his implicit confidence in that power which

controls the destinies of individuals as well as nations; to his

determination to act for the best interests of our beloved country, and

the vital importance of freedom of opinion and contrariety of sentiment

among a Republican people. In concluding his remarks, the President

expressed a strong desire to interchange congratulations with as many of

our citizens, of all parties, as time and circumstances would permit.

After the formal reception was completed the President was conducted

into the Mansion House, and during the evening was waited upon by many

hundreds of our citizens, from town and country, without party

distinction. Many of the ladies of our borough, with the Principal,

assistant teachers and young ladies of our Female Seminary, also, called

upon Mrs. Polk, whose plain, dignified and fascinating deportment and

intelligent conversation rendered her company exceedingly pleasant. Mrs.

Polk has certainly not been too highly complimented, by the many notices

which have been bestowed upon her, as a lady most admirably suited to

the discharge of the peculiar duties which await her as the wife of the

President-elect. On Tuesday morning at 9 o'clock the President and suite

left our borough, in good health and spirits, for Uniontown, at which

place they remained over night."

[Illustration: GEORGE T. HAMMOND.]

The Fulton House was a prominent house of entertainment in Washington

for many years. It is located on the corner of Main and Beau streets,

nearly opposite the court house. John Purviance kept a tavern on the

Fulton House site from 1790 to 1805, and three years thereafter went to

Claysville, as stated elsewhere in these pages. Richard Donaldson

succeeded Purviance in this old house. John Fleming kept a tavern on

this corner in 1820, called "The Philadelphia and Kentucky Inn." In

January, 1821, a fire occurred in this house, on occasion of the

marriage of a daughter of Mr. Fleming, which partially destroyed the

building, and saddest of all, burnt to death one of the old proprietor's

daughters. After the present large brick building was erected on this

corner, it was called "The American House," and was kept by S. B. and C.

Hayes previous to 1840, and after them by John Huey. In 1846 or 1847 it

was leased by Henry Fulton, who came from Westmoreland county,

Pennsylvania, and under his management it took the name of the "Fulton

House," which it retained, and under which it became widely and

favorably known, until it was given the absurd name of "Hotel Maine."

The Fulton House was admirably conducted and extensively patronized.

The National House was the headquarters of the Stockton line of stages.

It is located on the northwest corner of Main and Maiden streets. The

firm name of the Stockton line of stages was "The National Road Stage

Company," and it has been seen that this line bestowed its favor upon

public houses bearing the name "National." In 1821 Samuel Dennison, who

came from Greensburg, Pennsylvania, kept an old tavern that stood on the

site of the "National House." It was then known as "The Travelers' Inn

and Stage Office." It was subsequently enlarged and improved, and in

1823 passed to the control of James Briceland, under the name of the

"National House." Its next occupant was John Irons, who was succeeded by

James Searight, in 1836, and he in turn by Daniel Valentine, George T.

Hammond, Edward Lane, Adam C. Morrow and Elliot Seaburn. It was an

elegant eating house in the days of staging, and at its best under the

management of Hammond and Lane, respectively. It is now called the "Auld

House," and, as in many other instances, its old prestige departed with

its old name. James Searight went from the "National House" to

Zanesville, Ohio, and kept a tavern there for a short time, and

returning to Washington, leased the "Greene House," which was managed by

his son, William. These Searights were of a Cumberland, Maryland,

family.

As early as 1815 Richard Donaldson kept a tavern on Maiden street,

opposite the Female Seminary. This old house was surrounded by spacious

grounds, and there was a ball alley in the rear of it, which afforded

means of exercise and amusement for the town boys of the olden time.

James Workman succeeded Donaldson in this old tavern, and he, in 1830,

was succeeded by Samuel Surratt, father of James F. Surratt, the popular

postmaster of Steubenville, Ohio. Major William Paull kept this house

previous to 1840, and for a time thereafter, and at the close of his

term it was purchased by the trustees of the Female Seminary, since

which time it has formed a portion of the real estate belonging to that

institution. Major Paull came to this house from the old stone house on

Winding Ridge, and kept it as a wagon stand. It had good facilities for

the accommodation of wagoners, by reason of the spacious grounds before

mentioned, and these, in connection with the fact that Major Paull was

an experienced tavern keeper of the road, attracted a large and

profitable patronage.

The "Greene House," a popular tavern, was located on the east side of

Main street, south of the Mansion House, and on a lot formerly owned by

John L. Gow, esq. It was kept in 1842 by William Searight, before

mentioned, who was succeeded by S. B. and C. Hayes, whose occupancy was

brief, and about 1846 it came under the control of Daniel Brown, one of

the most competent landlords of his day and generation. During Brown's

incumbency it had the patronage of the Good Intent Stage company.

Brown's bar-keeper was Benjamin White, who wore his hair long and had a

scar on his face. His employer always addressed him as "Benny," and

confided in his integrity to the fullest extent, and in very truth

"Benny" was entirely worthy of his employer's confidence. Whither this

quaint old bar-keeper drifted, when the eclipse came over the sunshine

of the road, is not known, but his name deserves to be perpetuated in

history.

Most of the facts contained in this chapter rest on authority of

Crumrine's history of Washington county, Pennsylvania.

[Illustration: THE RANKIN HOUSE.]

CHAPTER XXXIX.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--Washington to West

Alexander--Rankintown--John Rankin--Andrew McDonald--Freaks of an

Old Wagon-maker--Robert Smith--John Coulson--Millers--Bedillions--

The S Bridge--Caldwells--Mrs. Brownlee--Another Widow McClelland--

Claysville--John Sargent--An event in the Life of Dan Rice--Basil

Brown--Dennisons--The Walker House--Jonathan D. Leet--Coon Island--

John Canode--Rogers and the Doughertys--John Valentine._

After passing Washington the ancient little village of Rankintown is

reached. It is situated a short distance over the top of the hill

leading up from Catfish, and a little over a mile from Washington. Here

a tavern was kept in early times by one Spalding, who seems to have

failed in impressing his name on the locality. His successor was John

Rankin, who dying, left his name behind him. His house was a large frame

building on the south side of the road, with the customary wagon yard

attached. While this old tavern did a large wagoner's trade, its

agreeable old host ministered largely to the wants of the traveling

public without distinction. As before intimated wagoners as a rule

preferred country taverns, and this is probably the reason so many of

them halted at Rankin's rather than proceeding on to Washington, going

east, where a number of good taverns were located, but being in a large

town, more or less under the ban of "tony places." John Rankin owned the

old tavern stand at Rankintown, and after conducting it for many years

during the flourishing era of the road, to use a common phrase of the

road, "died with the harness on." His widow continued to keep tavern at

the old stand until about the year 1847, when growing old and tired of

the cares and responsibilities of tavern keeping, concluded to retire to

private life, and leased the premises to a Mr. Johnson, who conducted

the house down to the fifties, when he was succeeded by Andrew McDonald,

who remained in charge until the activities of the road ceased. The

private residence of the late Hon. William Montgomery was for a number

of years on the roadside near the old Rankin tavern. He was an

illustrious old pike boy and championed the glories of the road on many

an occasion. Rankintown is now an incorporated borough, under the name

and style of West Washington, but the glories of the old pike all rest

and abide behind the present municipality.

In 1844 and subsequent to that date, Alpheus Murphy, a wagon-maker,

lived and operated a shop near the old Rankin tavern. He gained a local

notoriety for proclaiming in a loud voice in season and out of season,

his sentiments on current topics, and especially political issues. He

was a man of great physical strength, and a skillful workman. He had no

scruples against taking an occasional glass of the pure whisky that

abounded on the road in his day, and was a frequent visitor to

Washington. Prompted possibly by the influence of the active element

mentioned, he was accustomed to ascend the cupola of the Washington

court house and from the balustrade near its summit give vent to his

feelings, mainly of a Democratic tendency, in stentorian tones that

startled the whole community. Notwithstanding the boisterous fits that

marked and may have marred his life, he passed quietly away from the

scenes of earth, and will be long and kindly remembered by those who

knew him.

Two miles west of Rankintown Robert Smith kept a tavern as early as the

year 1818. At this point the National Road crossed an ancient roadway

leading from Washington to Wheeling, and Robert Smith kept a tavern here

on the old road. It was a frame house on the south side of the road, and

in after years became the homestead and private residence of Jacob

Weirich, who died its possessor.

Less than a mile west of Smith's John Coulson kept a tavern as early as

1820, and probably before that date. His house was a frame building, on

the south side of the road. The old building was torn down many years

ago, and a brick structure erected in its place. Coulson, the old

proprietor, has been dead fifty years, and at his death his tavern was

closed, and not again re-opened as a public house. The old wagoners and

stage drivers who were familiar with Coulson's tavern long since passed

to other scenes, along with its old proprietor.

About one mile west of the old Coulson House the well remembered and

popular wagon stand of John Miller is reached. Miller moved to this

point in 1836 from a stand two miles west of Pratt's Hollow, and east of

Cumberland, as before stated. The Miller house here is a large brick

building, with all the necessary outbuildings for a tavern, and a good

wagon yard. It is situate on the north side of the road. To gain the

wagon yard going west, old wagoners ascended a steep grade, but on the

other side the way was level. Miller had a good custom at his tavern

east of Cumberland, and his old friends followed him to his new

location. He had long experience as a tavern keeper, and furnished

satisfactory entertainment to the traveling public. Previous to 1836

Levi Wilson kept this house, and entertained the first crop of wagoners

on the road, and tradition attributes to him a good fame as a tavern

keeper. Miller died in this house. A son of Levi Wilson married a

daughter of John Miller, and since the death of the latter has been

occupying this old tavern-stand as a private residence.

[Illustration: THE JOHN MILLER HOUSE.]

At the foot of the hill west of Miller's, and on the north side of the

road, is the old Bedillion tavern. This house was kept as early as

1830 by one Scott, and as late as 1848 by Christly Wolf, and later by

George Boyd, but owing to a usage, in some instances difficult to

account for, it is better known as Bedillion's, especially among old

wagoners, than by any other name. Bedillion was a German, and his first

name was Abraham, and he probably possessed German traits and practices

which made an impression on old wagoners not to be forgotten. He kept

this house in 1836. Wolf also was of German origin, but his manners and

methods were of the American type. He was a man of prominence in his

neighborhood, and wielded considerable local influence, and was likewise

a member of the firm of Buck, Lyon and Wolf, contractors, before

mentioned. The old Bedillion tavern is a large frame building, with a

high porch in front. George Boyd took charge of this house in the early

fifties. He exchanged the shoe business in Washington for what he no

doubt considered the more profitable pursuit of tavern keeping on the

old pike. In this he seems to have been disappointed. His career as a

tavern keeper was not successful, and there were two reasons for it.

First, he began too late, and second, he was not a pike boy, and

therefore not familiar with the wants and ways of the road.

On the north side of the road, about one mile wrest of the S Bridge, and

as far back in the past as seventy years, one Andrew Caldwell (not a

relative of James, hereinafter mentioned), kept a small wooden tavern

and entertained primitive travelers and neighborhood callers in

primitive style. An old blacksmith, bearing the surname McSwiggin, was

found dead near this old tavern, and there was an undercurrent of

suspicion in the neighborhood that Andrew Caldwell, aforesaid, had, in

some manner and for some purpose, taken the old blacksmith's life.

However, no prosecution was instituted, and, in fact, no legal

investigation made as to the cause of the mysterious death; and it is to

be hoped, for the reputation of the early pike boys, that the suspicions

whispered against the old tavern keeper were groundless.

The next noted old tavern on the westward march is Mrs. Caldwell's,

seven miles from Washington. Before reaching Mrs. Caldwell's, the

celebrated S Bridge is passed. This bridge takes its name from its

shape, which resembles the letter S. It is a large stone bridge over a

branch of Buffalo creek. Near this bridge a county road leads to

Taylorstown, celebrated in recent years for its oil developments, and in

this vicinity reside James Noble and John Thompson, two old wagoners of

the road, mentioned in a previous chapter. There is a postoffice here

called "S Bridge," which affords postal facilities for a rich and

populous neighborhood. In early times there was a tavern at the eastern

end of the S Bridge, and one at its western end. These old taverns

accommodated the public in their day, but their facilities were limited,

and they ceased to entertain strangers and travelers previous to 1840.

Caldwell's is the tavern mentioned by Mr. Blaine, in the opening chapter

of this volume on old taverns. James Caldwell owned and conducted this

old tavern from the time the road was opened up for travel, or very soon

thereafter, until the year 1838, when he died, and his widow, Hester

Caldwell, kept it going as a tavern from that date until 1873, so that

she was one of the oldest tavern keepers of the road. The house is a

large and handsome structure, near the summit of a long hill, and on the

south side of the road. It is, at the present time, occupied by J. A.

Gordon, who entertains the public, and as of old, the house is a

favorite resort of pleasure seeking parties.

A half a mile west from Caldwell's, the widow Brownlee kept a tavern in

the early history of the road. Her house was a frame building on the

south side of the road. Robert Hall afterwards kept this house, and upon

his retirement it ceased to do business as a tavern.

On the top of the hill west of Mrs. Brownlee's the widow McClelland kept

a tavern sixty years ago. She was not of the famous tavern keeping

family of McClelland, of Uniontown. This widow McClelland was keeping

tavern at the point mentioned before the widow McClelland of the

McClelland House in Uniontown was born. The Baltimore & Ohio railroad at

this day passes through a tunnel near the old tavern of widow

McClelland.

Claysville is next reached. It is stated in Crumrine's history of

Washington county, that John Purviance was the first tavern keeper in

Claysville, and that he was the founder of the town. "When it became

certain," says Crumrine, "that the National Road would pass through the

place, Purviance caused the following notice to be inserted in the

Washington _Reporter_:

"The subscriber having laid off a number of building lots in the

new town of Claysville, will offer the same at public sale on the

premises, on Thursday, the 8th day of March, next. Claysville is

distant ten miles from Washington, westward, and about eighteen

east of Wheeling, and six from Alexandria. The great National Road

from Cumberland to Wheeling as located by Col. Williams and

confirmed by the President, and now rapidly progressing towards its

completion, passes directly through the town.

Washington, April 21, 1817.

JOHN PURVIANCE."

[Illustration: THE "S" BRIDGE.]

It goes without saying that this town was named in honor of Henry Clay,

the unrivaled champion of the road. As at other towns mentioned, the

road forms the main street of Claysville. In 1821 James Sargent kept a

tavern in Claysville, at the sign of the Black Horse. He moved to

Claysville from Washington, and the house he kept in Claysville was a

brick building, occupied formerly by John Porter. Claysville was a stage

station, as before stated. Bazil Brown kept a tavern in Claysville as

early as 1836, and probably before that date. He kept a wagon stand and

had a large patronage. Some time during the forties, Dan Rice, after his

circus stranded, was exhibiting a "learned pig" to the people of

Claysville, and in Bazil Brown's tavern. On the night of the

entertainment Brown lost an overcoat, and charged Dan Rice with stealing

it, and had him sent up to Washington jail to await trial. Dan

employed Seth T. Hurd to defend him, and was acquitted. Soon after Dan

appeared in Claysville with a new circus, and sang an original song in

the ring intended to embody his recollections of the overcoat escapade,

and to lampoon Brown for prosecuting him. The song was smooth, as all

Dan's were, and the thrusts at Brown sarcastic and severe, and much

enjoyed by the local hearers. Despite this unfortunate occurrence Bazil

Brown was a popular landlord, and kept a good house. The old circus man

is still living, and has probably forgotten and forgiven the old tavern

keeper for accusing him of felony, but the old tavern keeper long since

passed beyond the dark waters, and entered upon the realities of another

and unknown realm. James Dennison kept a tavern in Claysville as early

as 1840. He subsequently kept at Beallsville and at Hopwood as before

stated. He was an old wagoner and kept a wagon stand, but had the

patronage of one of the stage lines in Claysville, as well as a wagon

custom. Old wagoners felt themselves entirely at home at Dennison's

tavern, and thoroughly enjoyed his agreeable entertainment. David Bell,

John Walker, James Kelley, Stephen Conkling and John McIlree were all

old tavern keepers at Claysville, and kept stage houses.

There was also a Watkins who kept tavern in Claysville. The house he

kept was destroyed by fire previous to 1850. It had the patronage of the

Good Intent stage line. David Bell was an old stage driver. His house in

Claysville was a brick building on the south side, diagonally opposite

the old Walker House. He subsequently kept the Fulton House in

Washington in 1862 and 1863. The Walker House was a frame building, on

the north side. Walker subsequently located at Wheeling and kept a

tavern there. Conkling kept the Walker House. McIlree kept the Brown

House. Kelley also kept the Walker House, and it was in this house, and

in Kelley's time, that Jim Burr, the noted stage driver, "knocked out"

the Cincinnati buffer, before mentioned. The Stockton line of coaches

stopped at the old Brown House, and the Good Intent line at the Walker

and Watkins Houses.

The widow Calahan kept a tavern in Claysville prior to 1840. Jonathan D.

Leet married her daughter. Leet was a pike boy of no little distinction

in his day. His discernment and good taste in wedding the fair daughter

of an old tavern keeper were not the only proofs of his wit and worth.

He was a lawyer of ability, a major of militia, postmaster of Washington

during the presidency of President Polk, and member of the Legislature

for Washington county. A large man with prominent features, and somewhat

awkward in manner, he was the personification of Mars, when arrayed in

the elaborate uniform of the old militia system. The great gilt rolls of

the ponderous epaulette, and the immense three cornered and sharp

pointed chapeau produced a feeling of awe among all beholders, and

struck terror to the hearts of young folks. Major Leet being a lawyer

was Judge Advocate at all courts martial during the time he was in

commission. Those courts were frequently held in Washington, and their

members were required to sit, hear and determine in full uniform. On

such occasions Major Leet was "the observed of all observers," and

elicited the admiration of his many friends. There was an old

silversmith in Washington by the name of Galt, a man of acute

intelligence, given to the amusing side of life, and a close friend of

the philosopher Dr. Creigh, of the same place. These old worthies were

warm friends of Major Leet, and their enthusiasm knew no bounds in

expressing delight over the triumphs of the Major, in conducting these

courts martial. In 1848, when Major Leet was postmaster, he was an

ardent advocate of the election of General Cass to the presidency, and

accustomed to allude with emphasis to the fact that his favorite was "a

brave old volunteer." His candidate, however, was defeated, and under

the rule of partisanship, he was superseded in the postoffice by a

friend of the victorious columns. Subsequently he was elected to the

Legislature, and after serving his term did not return to live among his

constituents. He was essentially a pike boy, devoted to the memories of

the road, and fond of its associations, yet he died in a strange land,

and his is not the only instance wherein a seat in the Legislature has

led a man from the gentle paths and innocent pastimes of his early days.

Three miles west from Claysville, at the foot of a long hill, the

romantic, not to say classic spot of Coon Island is reached. Here was an

old tavern stand, for many years kept by John Canode previous to 1840.

It was on the north side of the road, and a wagon stand. The stages

stopped here also at times, and it was a regular relay for the express

wagons. After Canode's time the tavern here was kept by John Brotherton

and sons. It was a prominent point during the flourishing era of the

road. As late as 1853 a Mr. Reed kept the old tavern at Coon Island. The

old stage and wagon lines, however, were withdrawn previous to that

date, and some small local lines substituted, as if to prevent an abrupt

termination to the high prosperity which the road enjoyed for so long a

period. The origin of the name Coon Island is presumably

unascertainable, else Crumrine in his history of Washington county would

have given it, as the locality is within the limits of that county. That

coons existed and flourished in the neighborhood from time immemorial,

there is scarcely a doubt, but an island has never been witnessed there

since the subsidence of the great flood in Noah's time. The point is now

a station on the Baltimore & Ohio railroad, and the name is changed to

Vienna. The old name is more appropriate, albeit the island is absent.

It is more appropriate, because it is familiar to the people, but it

seems to be the inevitable doom of many old familiar names to fall

before the advance of modern fancies. Think of an old wagoner going back

to Coon Island after an absence of half a century, to find himself "a

mere looker on in Vienna!" Shades of the old pike, hide this ruthless

and senseless innovation from the eyes of mankind.

[Illustration: DAVID BELL.]

Two miles west from Coon Island and a short distance beyond the site of

the old Catholic church, an old tavern was kept in early days by one

Rogers, and subsequently by Jacob and Michael Dougherty. It was a frame

house, on the north side of the road. A good water trough was maintained

at this old stand, and travelers halted here for water. In 1830 this old

tavern was kept by Jacob Jones, the father of the distinguished iron

manufacturer and politician, B. F. Jones, of Pittsburg. The old church

mentioned, which will be remembered by all who are familiar with this

section of the road, was taken down a few years ago, and rebuilt at

Claysville, a more central point for the parishioners. Before reaching

Dougherty's another old round toll house is passed, the last one on the

road in Pennsylvania. Here William McCleary collected the tolls for many

years.

A few hundred yards further west the old and popular tavern of John

Valentine is reached. It is a frame house, on the north side of the

road, large and commodious, and was a favorite resort of wagoners.

Valentine kept this tavern a great many years. If he had a predecessor

or a successor in this house, his name is totally eclipsed by that of

John Valentine. He possessed the talent for tavern keeping in a rare

degree, and was a brother of Daniel Valentine, the old and popular

tavern keeper of Washington, and of Charles Valentine, an old wagoner of

that place.

CHAPTER XL.

_Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers continued--West Alexander to

Wheeling--A Modern Gretna Green--Dr. McCluskey--Crossing Another

State Line--Abram Carr--The Widow Beck, with whom Abram Lincoln

boarded, and at whose house Robert T. Lincoln was born--The Widow

Rhodes and Abram Beagle--John White, Isaac Jones, Roney's Point,

Ninian Bell, John Bentley, James Kimberly, Triadelphia, John D.

Foster, Col. Thompson, the Widow Gooding--The Clay Monument--Col.

Moses Shepherd and his wife, Lydia--Samuel Carter--Michael

Blackburn--Steenrods--Wheeling--John McCortney, and others._

Crumrine's history of Washington county states that West Alexander was

first laid out in 1796 by Robert Humphreys, that most of the lots were

subsequently acquired by Charles D. Hass, who in the year 1817 sold them

by public outcry; that the National Road at the last mentioned date was

in process of construction, and had been actually opened for travel from

Cumberland to the Big Crossings, and it was believed that all the towns

upon its route would become places of prosperity and importance; that

the town of West Alexander was destroyed by fire on May 4, 1831, but

slowly recovered from the disaster, and in the succeeding twenty years

became a thriving village, by reason of the prosperity of the great

thoroughfare on which it was located. A house called the "American

Eagle" was the first tavern in West Alexander, established by Duncan

Morrison in 1796, and kept by him for a number of years. Subsequent

tavern keepers in West Alexander were Charles Mayes, Zebulon Warner,

John Gooding, John Woodburn, William McCall, Solomon Cook, James

Sargent, Charles Hallam, Mary Warner, James Bell, Silver Gilfillan,

Samuel Beamer, James Matthers, John Irons, Moses Thornburg, Samuel Doak,

Joseph Lawson, Joseph Dowdal, William F. Gordon, William McCutcheon, and

perhaps others. Joseph Lawson was probably the best known of all these

old tavern keepers. He kept a wagon stand for a long time during the

prosperous era of the road, and was extensively patronized. He had been

an old wagoner himself, and knew the secret of agreeably entertaining

old wagoners. He is mentioned in a previous chapter as a "fancy wagoner"

of the road. His tavern in West Alexander was a large and commodious

frame building at the western end of the town, on the south side of the

road, with a large and well arranged wagon yard attached. He owned the

property, and died in possession. Beside being a successful wagoner and

tavern keeper, Joseph Lawson was a staunch citizen, a man of influence

and highly esteemed. He was at one time, for a brief period,

Superintendent of the road from Brownsville to the Virginia line.

[Illustration: JOSEPH F. MAYES. (OLD JUSTICE OF THE PEACE.)]

There was, during the prosperous era of the road, an academy at West

Alexander under the management of the Rev. Dr. John McCluskey, where

many boys were trained for entrance to Washington college. Dr. McCluskey

was an eminent scholar, an able preacher, a successful educator and a

worthy man in all the walks of life. He devoted a long and laborious

life here, to gain a better one hereafter, and let us hope he is now

realizing its enjoyment. West Alexander is also noted as a rival of the

celebrated Gretna Green, of Scotland, by reason of the many clandestine

marriages which have taken place there. Joseph F. Mayes, an old justice

of the peace of the place, married nineteen hundred and eighteen couples

from 1862 to 1881, more than nine-tenths of whom were elopers. It is

estimated that from 1835 to 1885, the date of the enactment of the

Pennsylvania marriage license law, over five thousand eloping couples

were married in West Alexander.

One mile distant from West Alexander on the north side of the road,

Abram Carr kept a tavern as early as 1836. It was a frame building, and

a wagon stand. After Carr this old tavern was kept by Silver Gilfillan,

before mentioned in the list of tavern keepers at West Alexander. Carr

and Gilfillan well knew the ways of the road, and were competent men in

their line. Old wagoners were accustomed to lay aside their coin, to pay

bills at Gilfillan's tavern, under a belief that he coveted silver

because of his Christian name. This was the first tavern located in Old

Virginia on the westward march, being less than a mile from the

Pennsylvania State line.

Two miles further west a large frame tavern on the north side of the

road, was kept by Mrs. Sarah Beck as early as 1832. It was a station for

the Stockton line of coaches. Mrs. Beck was succeeded in this house by

Samuel Node, who retained the good will and patronage extended to his

predecessor. Mrs. Beck was the widow of James Beck, of the old bridge

building firm of Kinkead, Beck & Evans, frequently mentioned in these

pages. Her son, William G. Beck, still living in Fairfield, Iowa, was

the hero of the exciting race between two coaches from Cumberland to

Piney Grove, mentioned in a previous chapter. James Beck, the husband of

Sarah Beck, died in Wheeling in 1829, while keeping a tavern in that

place. His widow was of a heroic mold, and resolved to carry on the

battle of life on her own account, and continued in the business of

tavern keeping. She kept tavern at various points, and finally about the

year 1847 bade a last adieu to the scenes of the road, amid which she

had been reared, and emigrated to the then far west. Leasing a house in

Springfield, Illinois, she resumed the business of tavern keeping. While

a member of the Illinois Legislature, Abraham Lincoln was a boarder in

Mrs. Beck's house, and Robert T. Lincoln, the late United States

minister at London, was born under her roof. Thus an old tavern keeper

of the National Road was closely associated with, and enjoyed the

confidence of, one of the most illustrious personages of his time or of

any time.

A short distance, less than a mile further west, the widow Rhodes kept a

popular wagon stand as early as 1830. Another widow, and no exception to

the rule, before stated. Her house was a frame building, on the south

side of the road, and a busy, bustling hostelry. Abram Beagle, an old

wagoner, became the husband of the widow Rhodes, as elsewhere in these

pages stated, and relieved her of many of the active cares of tavern

keeping, until his death, which occurred in this house, leaving his wife

a second time a widow, and she continued the business of tavern keeping

as the widow Beagle, with her usual success. Abram Beagle was likewise,

and before he married Mrs. Rhodes, a contractor on the road. His work

was near the Little Crossings.

The next old tavern on the west, and a short distance from the widow

Rhodes' house, was kept as early as 1830 by John White. It was a frame

house on the north side of the road. Mrs. Beck, before mentioned,

subsequently bought this property, improved it in many details, and

especially by the erection of a substantial new stable, with a capacity

for sheltering one hundred horses. She conducted this tavern in 1833,

and kept the stock and boarded the drivers and other employees of the

Stockton line of coaches. She was a favorite of that line, and

patronized by it at all points of the road where she kept a tavern,

except at the Greene House in Washington, where she had the favor and

patronage of the Good Intent line. The old White stand was kept by the

widow Miller and her son, after Mrs. Beck left it, and they were

succeeded by Peter Perkins, and he in turn by John Brotherton.

One mile further west Isaac Jones kept a tavern as early as 1835, and

probably before that date. His house was a frame building on the north

side of the road. He was not active in soliciting patronage, and after a

brief and not very successful career as a tavern keeper, closed his

house to the public and continued to occupy it as a private residence,

and it was never thereafter opened as a tavern.

Rooney's Point is next reached, a stage station ten miles from Wheeling.

The original owner of the land here was Roney, and its peculiar

conformation, a high ridge ending in a point on the south side of the

road, gave it the name of Roney's Point. It is a familiar name, and was

a lively place during the palmy days of the road. On the north side of

the road, at Roney's Point, a large stone tavern was kept by one Ninian

Bell, prior to the year 1828. He was succeeded by James Beck, Mrs. Sarah

Beck, Moses Thornburg, and Jacob Beck, in the order named. James and

Jacob Beck were not relatives. The old Simms line of stages stopped at

this house when it was kept by James Beck, and it was the stopping place

of the Good Intent line, when kept by Jacob Beck.

[Illustration: MRS. SARAH BECK.]

One mile west of Roney's Point, on the south side, stood an old frame

tavern, which, in the eventful days of the road gathered in its share

of glory. It was kept first by John Bentley, and after him by James

Kimberly. In addition to the custom it gained from the road, this house

was a favorite resort of the young rural residents, male and female, of

that portion of Old Virginia, and here they were accustomed to go for a

night's festivity, always confining themselves within the bounds of

propriety, but within those bounds enjoying themselves in a high degree.

There is many a gray-haired veteran living in the vicinity now, of both

sexes, whose memories revert with pleasure to the exciting and

exhilarating scenes they witnessed and participated in, at John

Bentley's old tavern.

One mile further west, Triadelphia is reached, a small village, and like

many others, the outgrowth of the National Road. Here John D. Foster

kept a tavern at an early day, and very old pike boys say it was a good

one. It was a frame building on the north side of the road. The old

landlord is said to have been courteous in deportment, given to

hospitality, and scrupulously observant of the proprieties of life. His

daughter, Mary, became the wife of C. S. Malt by, the celebrated oyster

dealer of Baltimore. The first parties who shipped oysters over the road

by express were Nicholas Roe, Edward Wright, and Holt and Malt by. The

latter firm soon obtained entire control of the business, and made a

fortune in it. Malt by died within the past two years in Connecticut,

and Holt was killed in a railroad accident in Virginia in 1852. Colonel

Thompson also kept a tavern in Triadelphia in an early day. His house

was a frame building, on the north side. Colonel Thompson was a

gentleman of the old Virginia school, and a fine type of the genial

landlord. He ceased keeping this house previous to 1840, and was

succeeded by William Barnes, who in turn was succeeded by Edward Lane,

and Lane by Frank Lawson. This house was largely patronized by pleasure

seekers from Wheeling and other places, beside doing an extensive road

business, and enjoyed an excellent reputation as a hostelry.

Three miles further west the old tavern of Mrs. Gooding, another widow,

is reached. The site of this old tavern is now covered by the

flourishing village of Elm Grove. Mrs. Gooding had a wide fame as a

hostess, and her house was crowded by patrons. It is a stone building,

still standing, situate on the south side of the road. Old wagoners to

this day, enthuse over the sumptuousness of the widow Coding's table.

Sleighing parties from Wheeling frequented this old tavern in the

halcyon days of the road, and were handsomely entertained.

"Oh, the songs they would sing, and the tales they would spin,

As they lounged in the light of the old country inn.

But a day came at last when the stage brought no load

To the gate, as it rolled up the long, dusty road.

And lo! at the sunrise a shrill whistle blew

O'er the hills--and the old yielded place to the new--

And a merciless age with its discord and din

Made wreck, as it passed, of the pioneer inn."

Before reaching Mrs. Coding's the Clay Monument is passed. This monument

was erected by Moses Shepherd and Lydia, his wife, under an inspiration

of personal admiration of the great statesman, and with a further view

of commemorating his distinguished public services in behalf of the

road. It is of free stone, located upon a level piece of ground about

fifty feet south of the east end of a stone bridge of three arches, over

Wheeling creek. At its base its circumference is twenty-four feet,

towering to a height of twenty feet, and surmounted by a chiselled

figure of the Goddess of Liberty, at this date bearing plain evidences

of the ravages of time and storm. Originally each of the four sides of

the base column revealed an elaborate inscription, but all are totally

effaced now, except the one on the east side, which is as follows: "TIME

will bring every amelioration and refinement, most gratifying to

rational man, and the humblest flower freely plucked under the shelter

of the Tree of Liberty, is more to be desired than all the trappings of

royalty; 44th year of American Independence, Anni Domini, 1820." The

word TIME stands out in bold relief over the other words quoted. John

Awry, of Claysville, and Alexander Ramsey, of Washington, two old and

well remembered stone-cutters, worked on this monument. The former did

most of the carving, in which he was an expert, and the latter much of

the fine chiselling. Ramsey was the father-in-law of William G. Beck,

the old stage driver previously mentioned.

On a picturesque eminence, near the monument, overlooking Big Wheeling

creek, stands the ancient and historic Shepherd mansion, a stone

building erected in 1798, and now known as "Monument Place," the

delightful and hospitable home of Maj. Alonzo Louring. In the olden

time, when the National Road was the bustling highway of the Republic,

the handsome and luxurious stage coaches of the period, frequently bore

Henry Clay and other eminent men of his day to the Shepherd mansion,

where they revealed in Old Virginia hospitality.

Near the old Shepherd mansion stands an antiquated sun dial, covered

with the marks of time, and bearing on its south face this inscription:

"The noiseless foot of TIME steals softly by,

And ere we think of MANHOOD age draws nigh."

[Illustration: COL. MOSES SHEPHERD.]

[Illustration: MRS. LYDIA SHEPHERD.]

On the north face of this dial appear the names and the figures: "Moses

and Lydia Shepherd, 1820." Col. Moses Shepherd died in 1832, and his

widow subsequently married Gen. Daniel Kruger, whom she also survived

many years. They are all now dead, and their mortal remains mingle with

their native dust, in the cemetery attached to the "Stone Church," near

Elm Grove. A handsome monument stands at their graves bearing the

following inscriptions: On one side, "_Sic Transit Gloria Mandi_: Sacred

to the memory of Col. Moses Shepherd, who departed this life April 29th,

1832, in the 69th year of his age." "To him the country owes a large

debt of gratitude, as well for his defense of it, when a frontier

settlement, as for his recent public services in aiding the

extension and construction of the CUMBERLAND ROAD through Virginia." The

obverse side tells the story of the second husband, as follows: "_Sic

Transit Gloria Mandi_: Sacred to the memory of Gen. Daniel Kruger, who

died July 12th, 1843, in the 64th year of his age." A third side

perpetuates the memory of the twice bereaved widow as follows: "_Sic

Transit Gloria Mandi_: Lydia S. Kruger, wife of Gen. Daniel Kruger,

formerly Lydia S. Bogs, first married Col. Moses Shepherd: Born Feb.

26th, 1766: Died Sept. 26th, 1867, in the 102d year of her age." High up

on the granite shaft is chiselled on two sides the picture of a log

cabin, and at the door appears a female figure in sitting posture, with

a dog in repose at the feet, while in the back ground is seen the

representation of a martial group, with branches of a palm tree

overhanging the whole design.

A short distance west from widow Goodings, Samuel Carter kept a tavern

as early as 1830. It was a brick house on the south side of the road, a

resort for pleasure seekers from Wheeling, and a well kept house. This

house was subsequently kept by William Strawn.

About one mile west of Carter's, Michael Blackburn kept a tavern in the

olden time, and was well favored with custom. It was a stone house on

the north side of the road.

Next comes Steenrod's, two miles out from Wheeling, a brick and stone

building on the south side of the road, and a widely known old tavern.

Daniel Steenrod, the old landlord, owned the property, and was a man of

intelligence and much influence. His son, Lewis, represented the

Wheeling district in Congress during the prosperous era of the road,

and, as before stated, was one of its most zealous champions. Lewis

Steenrod, a grandson of the old landlord, is at this time (1892), High

Sheriff of Ohio county, West Virginia, and on November 18th of this

year, executed Maier, the murderer. Daniel Steenrod kept the old tavern

last mentioned as early as 1825, and probably before that date, and

continued throughout the whole period of the road's great career as a

national highway. He died April 27th, 1864, aged eighty years. The

property still remains in the Steenrod family.

A short distance from Steenrod's, on the north side, was "Good's

Bottom," now called Pleasant Valley, doubtless by reason of the frantic

iconoclasm, which has lain its ruthless hands on so many old and

familiar names. At Good's Bottom there was a race course in early times,

and it was here, and previous to 1840, that the celebrated horse

"Tariff" lost his laurels. "Tariff" was owned by Thomas Porter, a farmer

and stock man of Claysville. Joseph White, the well known marble dealer

of Uniontown, a native of the vicinity of Claysville, was a witness of

the discomfiture of "Tariff" on the old race course at Good's Bottom.

And now, after a long journey of two hundred and sixty miles, the city

of Wheeling is reached. Wheeling was the western terminus of the road,

in contemplation of the Act of Congress of March 29th, 1806, given in a

previous chapter. John McCortney kept the most noted wagon stand in

Wheeling. He was likewise a commission merchant, which further

identified him with old wagoners, enabling him to furnish them with back

loads. His tavern was located on Main street, running back east on

Fourteenth to alley B, parallel with, and between Main and Market, with

ample grounds surrounding it for wagons and teams to stand on. These

grounds were so extensive that they accommodated the old time circus, in

addition to wagons and teams of the road, and two distinct circuses have

been known to exhibit on them at the same time. They were not of the

modern "triple ring" order, but of the Dan Rice design. McCortney was a

man of agreeable manners, and managed his extensive business with marked

success. He died in Wheeling on December 10th, 1872, aged seventy-nine

years. He was three times married. His last wife was the widow of

William H. Stelle, one of the proprietors of the Good Intent stage line.

Martin Bugger was McCartney's bar-keeper for many years, and is

remembered by old wagoners as a rival of Wilse Clement in hard swearing.

On lower Water street, Robert Newlove kept a wagon stand, and was well

liked by old wagoners, and well patronized by them. He was the owner of

wagons and teams, which he kept on the road, in charge of hired drivers.

In 1829 Richard Simms, the old stage proprietor, kept the United States

hotel, and was its owner. James Beck kept this house after Simms, and

James Dennison after Beck. James McCray kept it next after Dennison, and

Mordecai Yarnell next after McCray. The Monroe House, on Monroe, now

Tenth street, was kept in 1830 by John McClure, and subsequently by

James Matthers. The Virginia House was kept in 1830 by John Graham, and

afterward by one Beltsville, and later by Jacob Kline. Beltsville and

Kline came out from Baltimore. The United States, the Monroe and the

Virginia, were stage stations. On upper Main street, in 1830, Moses

Mossier kept a tavern, and on the same street, and at the same time, a

tavern was kept by Mrs. Beamer, widow of Captain Frederic Beamer,

assisted by her son, Samuel, who was a soldier of 1812. Capt. Frederic

Beamer kept a tavern in Wheeling as early as the year 1802, at the sign

of the Wagon, and took boarders at two piastres a week. The town council

of Wheeling met in Capt. Beamers tavern in 1806. The house that Widow

Beamer presided over as hostess, is a brick building, on the southwest

corner of Main and Ninth streets, on a lot bordering the river. This

house is still standing, but has not been used as a tavern for many

years. Beamers old Landing was at the foot of Ninth street, where the

National Road approached the Ohio river. In 1830 Joseph Teeters kept a

wagon stand in Wheeling, below McCartney's, and John Bradfield kept a

similar stand on Water street in 1837-8. The mysterious disappearance of

a man by the name of Cooper from the Mossier House about 1840, produced

a local sensation, followed by an accusation of foul play and a charge

of murder. Cooper, in company with a friend and neighbor by the name of

Long, put up together one evening at the Mossier House, and on the next

morning Cooper was missing. The two had come in from Ohio, and were

going to Washington county, Pennsylvania, where they were born and

raised, to visit relatives and old friends. It appears that Cooper rose

early and took an outgoing coach back to Ohio without notifying his

traveling companion or any one else. A dead body was found in the river

and identified as that of Cooper; and Long, after reaching his

destination, was arrested for murder and lodged in the Washington jail.

The Virginia authorities made no requisition for him, and he was finally

discharged, and settled in Michigan. A few years afterward, Cooper was

discovered in Indianapolis, sound and well.

[Illustration: JOHN McCORTNEY.]

The Forsyth's of Wheeling, James H. and his son Leonard, were

prominently identified with the destinies of the National Road. The

commission house of James H. Forsythe & Co. was a leading establishment

of its kind. James H. Forsythe, the senior member of this old firm, was

noted for his energy and clear-hoodedness. He could converse with any

number of persons, and indite a letter at the same time, without being

in any wise confused. His son, Leonard, was also well known on the road.

He conducted commission houses at Brownsville and Cumberland, and very

often passed over the road, in the management of his business. He is now

living in Texas near Austin, and feels a deep interest in the history of

the road.

W. L. McNeil, of Wheeling, when a young man, had a brief experience as a

wagoner. He drove several trips for Thomas Darkly, who was a merchant

with stores in Baltimore and Wheeling, and is well remembered by old

pike boys. McNeil "put up" at Natty Brownfield's, in Uniontown, when

driving Drake's team, a half a century and longer ago, and has never

forgotten the good entertainment he enjoyed at that old tavern.

The old tavern keepers of the National Road were a remarkable body of

men. In many instances they were free holders, men well posted in

current affairs, and influential in their respective neighbourhoods.

They were honorable in their dealings, and believed that every man's

word should be as good as his bond. As caterers they made no display.

They had no bills of fare, printed on gilt edged paper, or fine linen,

and it is doubtful if any one of them ever heard the modern word _Menu_,

yet the spreads of their generous boards would almost kindle

exhilaration in the heart of a misanthrope. The thought may be

attributable to change of time or circumstance, or taste, or all

together, but there is an immovable conviction in the mind of the writer

of these pages, that the viands of modern hotels, lack the savouriness

of those of the old taverns of the National Road.

CHAPTER XLI.

_West of Wheeling--Old Stage Lines Beyond the Ohio River--William

Neil--Gen. N. P. Flamage--Stage Stations--Old Taverns and Tavern

Keepers--Rev. Doctor Cinnabar and "Sunset" Cox were old Pike

Boys--Lively Times in Guernsey--Crossing another State

line--Sycamore Valley--Old Taverns in Richmond--A link

out--Centerville--Dublin--Through Indiana--The Road Disappears

among the Prairies of Illinois._

It is estimated that two-fifths of the trade and travel of the road were

diverted at Brownsville, and fell into the channel furnished at that

point by the slack water improvement of the Monongahela river, and a

like proportion descended the Ohio from Wheeling, and the remaining

fifth continued on the road to Columbus, Ohio, and points further west.

The travel west of Wheeling was chiefly local, and the road presented

scarcely a tithe of the thrift, push, whirl and excitement which

characterized it, east of that point; and there was a corresponding lack

of incident, accident and anecdote on the extreme western division. The

distance from Wheeling to Columbus is one hundred and twenty-nine miles,

and the road enters the capital of Ohio by way of High street. Before

the era of railroads Columbus derived its chief business from the

National Road.

Neil, Moore & Co. operated a line of stage coaches between Wheeling and

Columbus prior to, and for some time after, the year 1840, and their

line extended west as far as Springfield. Daniel Moore, of Washington,

Pennsylvania, and his son Henry, composed the Moore end of this old Ohio

Stage Company. Henry Moore subsequently located in Baltimore, and died

there. His father died in Washington, Pennsylvania, more than half a

century ago. John Scott, of Washington, Pennsylvania, antedates Daniel

Moore as a stage proprietor. He ran a line of coaches between Washington

and Wheeling as early as the year 1810, on an old road between those

points, which was used previous to the construction of the National

Road, and had the contract for carrying the United States mails.

William Neil, the old stage proprietor, was the projector and owner of

the Neil House, the leading hotel of Columbus. He was the possessor of

large means, enhanced by holdings of large tracts of fertile land near

Columbus, which he acquired at low figures in an early day. It is said

his manners were not of the _suave_ order, but he was noted for energy

and shrewdness. One who knew him says of him, that "he was honest in his

dealings, somewhat rough in his ways, but an energetic, pushing man,

who made things move." This description fits many of the old pike boys.

Gen. N. P. Flamage, of whom further mention is made hereafter, owned and

operated a line of coaches also between Wheeling and Columbus, and made

things lively along the road. He called his line the "Good Intent."

John Weaver, as before stated, transferred his old line of coaches

called the "Peoples," from the eastern to the Ohio portion of the road.

There was considerable competition between these old lines, but not

comparable to that of the old lines east of Wheeling. The stage stations

between Wheeling and Columbus were: St. Gainesville, Morristown,

Fairview, Washington, Cambridge, Concord, Zanesville, Gratiot, named in

honor of Brig. Gen. Gratiot, before mentioned; Jackson, Etna and

Reynolds burg.

Among the old tavern keepers west of Wheeling, the following were

prominent and well known in the olden time: Moses Rhodes kept at

Bridgeport, and hailed the west-bound traveler on his entrance to the

borders of the State of Ohio. A short distance further west, one Cusic,

and after him Nicol's, in the same old tavern, ministered to the wants

of the traveler on the nation's old highway. A short drive from Nicols'

brought the wayfarer to the house of Chambers, ever ready to wait upon

the public, and a little beyond was the Woodman's house, kept by Isaac

Cleaves, who afterward hung up his sign at a house further west. Passing

Woodman's, the next old tavern was McMahon's, a veritable son of Erin,

overflowing with native generosity. This part of the road seems to have

been an Irish row, since the next old tavern, after passing McMahon's,

was kept by one McCray. A short distance west of McCray's the town of

St. Gainesville comes in view, one of the oldest towns of Ohio, the seat

of justice for Belmont county, and named in honor of the illustrious old

Westmoreland county, Pennsylvania, soldier and patriot, Gen. Arthur St.

Clair.

In St. Gainesville, James Smith kept the stage office, and bowed in

genuine old pike style to the coming and going passengers. One mile west

of St. Gainesville, an old German, or Swede, bearing the non-musical

name of Swanker, or something like it, kept a tavern, and, according to

tradition, a good one. His house was a fine brick building, on the north

side of the road. One mile further west, one Hoover entertained the

traveling public, and beyond him, one Chamberlain presided over a good

old tavern.

The village of Louisville is next reached, which, of course, had its

tavern, as all villages have, and probably more than one; but the old

wagoner who furnished most of the data for this chapter could not recall

the names of the old proprietors thereof. It was a long time ago that he

drove a team on the road, and he is verging upon his ninetieth year, and

therefore not to be censured for forgetfulness.

The writer found more difficulty in obtaining information concerning

this portion of the road than any other. In fact, he admits his failure

to obtain the necessary data for producing an accurate history of it. He

wrote to all the postmasters on the Ohio line east of Columbus, for

information concerning the road, and no response came, except in one

instance, and that was to a letter which reached a wrong destination. It

was addressed to the postmaster at Jackson, a village on the road,

called "Jacktown" by the old pike boys, and found its way to the

postmaster of Jackson, Jackson county, a considerable distance south of

the National Road. It happened that the postmaster who received this

letter was a native of Brownsville, Fayette county, Pennsylvania, a

member of the old Sloan family of that place, but he was so far away

from the road that he could furnish no information concerning it. He, at

least, was courteous, a trait for which he is indebted, probably, to the

circumstance of his nativity. A self-important postmaster, especially of

a little town, like the political carpet-bagger, has no respect for

ancient landmarks.

Moving on westwardly, the next point reached is Morristown, the second

stage station west of Wheeling. This town was at its best when the

National Road was the leading avenue of trade and travel. John Barnum

and John Lipping were the old tavern keepers of Morristown, and took

pride in scanning the old way bills, and catering to the wants of hungry

stage passengers.

One mile west of Morristown Christopher Hoover hung out his old sign

board in front of a substantial brick house, on the south side of the

road, and a short distance beyond, Noble Taylor, a combination of

familiar old pike names, entertained the traveling public.

The village of Hindenburg is next reached. This place is on the dividing

line between Belmont and Guernsey counties. It is not and never was a

pretentious town, but its old inhabitants derived much comfort, and not

a little pleasure, from advantages afforded by the National Road.

Passing one or more old taverns whose occupants and owners cannot be

recalled, the traveler comes upon the town of Fairview, a stirring place

in the palmy days of the road. There William Bradshaw was a popular

tavern keeper. He and Isaac Cleaves, formerly of the Woodman's House,

near Wheeling, were the leading tavern keepers in Fairview fifty years

ago.

West of Fairview the old tavern keepers were: William Armstrong, Joseph

Ferrell and Alexander Taylor.

Middletown is next reached, and here Thomas Hays and one Thompson each

kept a tavern in the olden time, and gladdened the heart of many a weary

traveler.

West of Middletown the roll bears the names of Alter Briggs and

Alexander Speers.

Samuel Smith kept the old tavern at Elizabeth town. West of Elizabeth

town, one Cray ton kept a tavern, and beyond him Widow Drake. The widows

never surrender.

The village of Washington is next reached. Here Simon Beamer kept at

the sign of the "Black Bear," and Peter Colley, formerly of Centreville,

kept a tavern in Washington as late as 1854.

West of Washington the old traveler on the road found rest and

refreshment first at the tavern of Widow Slams, and before reaching

Cambridge, excellent entertainment was furnished by Joseph Griffith,

James Smith, John Shaw, Mr. Slater, Mr. McCain, John Nice, Robert Curry,

Mr. Waterhouse, and Joshua Davis.

Cambridge comes next on the line. This is the capital of Guernsey

county, one of the liveliest towns on the road, and surviving its

decline, remains prosperous. The old tavern keepers in Cambridge were

William Ferguson, Wyatt Hutchinson, Bazil Brown, Mr. Nee dam, Mr.

Pollard, Joseph Bute, Elijah Grimes, John Cook, James B. Moore, Captain

Hearsing, John Tingle and George Met calf. The latter kept one of the

stage houses.

Three miles west of Cambridge, Thomas Curran kept an old tavern. Further

west, taverns were kept by Jacob Frank, Mr. Laird, Alex. Leper, Ichabod

Grumman, Mr. Sutton, Frank Dixon, William McDonald and Lewis McDonald.

Lewis McDonald's old tavern was near the dividing line between Guernsey

and Muskingum counties.

After entering the county of Muskingum the first old tavern reached was

kept by William McKinney, and next in line comes the old tavern of

William Wilson, still doing business under the management of Edward

McLeod.

At Norwich Mr. Cinnabar kept a tavern. He was the father of Rev. Hiram

Cinnabar, D. D., for many years a leading member of the Pittsburg

Conference of the Methodist Episcopal church, a man of much learning and

genuine piety, pure in thought, and upright in conduct. The author of

these pages knew him well, and in the whole range of his acquaintance

never met a sincerer friend, or a more just man. He died in Los Angeles,

California, a few years ago. Lightly rest the sod that covers his grave.

He is numbered among the pike boys, as in early life he led horses from

his father's house in Ohio to eastern markets.

Further westward on the road Jacob Probasco hung up his sign in front of

an old tavern, he of Jockey Hollow fame before mentioned. His tavern at

this point was known as the "Ten Mile House," being distant ten miles

from Zanesville.

One mile west of Proboscis's one McNutt, of Irish extraction, and good

fame as a landlord, kept a tavern, and next beyond, on the westward

trend, John Livengood, whose name imports old Pennsylvania Dutch stock,

ministered to the wants of strangers and travelers.

Zanesville is next reached. Zanesville is the county seat of Muskingum

county. It is situate on the Muskingum river, fifty-nine miles east from

Columbus. Mr. Leslie kept a tavern in Zanesville in the olden time, and

entertained the public in a highly satisfactory manner. His house was a

brick building on the north side of the street and road, and at the west

end of the town. When Leslie kept tavern in Zanesville, the town

contained a population of about 7,000. Its population at this date

exceeds 25,000. It survived the decline of the road, and grew rapidly in

population and wealth, but it may be doubted whether its present money

making inhabitants experience as much of the real pleasures and

enjoyments of life as their predecessors of fifty years ago, when the

dashing stage coach woke up the echoes of the dull town, and the heavy

tread of the ponderous broad wheeled wagon told the whole story of

commerce and trade. The illustrious Samuel S. Cox was born and reared in

Zanesville, and therefore, under a definition given in a previous

chapter, a pike boy. He was called "Sunset," by reason of a gushing

description he wrote of the Setting Sun, when a young man, and there is

no doubt that the views which so deeply impressed his youthful mind were

had from points on the National Road, in the vicinity of his native

town. He was one of the brightest stars in the galaxy of American

statesmen.

A writer in a Guernsey county paper gives the following lively

description of scenes on the road in that locality:

"Isaac Cleaves was one of the old tavern keepers in Fairview. His house

was the stage office, where a halt was made for exchange of horses, and

to discharge and take on passengers. The stage offices were places of

public resort, and around the bar-rooms gathered the toper's and

loafers, by day and by night. The old stage drivers were full of fun and

frolic, and could entertain the curious with

'Tales fearful and awful,

E'en to name would be unlawful.

Fast by an Angle blinking Bonni,

W'ie recanning swats that drank divinely,

These sorters told their queerest stories,

And the landlord's laugh was ready chorus.'

"There was Nat Smith, Sam Smith, Jim Smith, Bate Smith, Jo Smith, Quill

Smith, Bill Smith, and more of the Smith family, and Sam Carouse, Jake

Carouse, Sylvester Root, Sam Kirk, Tom Kirk, Tom Bryan, Andy Caster, Tom

Carter, Jim Bryan, Bony Sheldon, Wash Cranford, Jim Bay less, Mart Huck,

Henry Hight, Tom Crawford, John Silvain, Ross Briggs, and a host of

others of the 'knights of the whip and reins,' of those old coaching

days,

'When hand to hand they cut and strive,

Devil take the hindmost of the drive.'

"Near by stood the old 'smithy' of Capt. John G. Bell's father, whose

bellows flapped, and red sparks flew, and anvil rang, night and day, to

keep the horses feet in trim, so that down the slope to Honduras, and on

to Borden's hill and Taylor's hill, and o'er Salt Fork's long stretch,

through ice and sleet, these Jehu's could safely, and on time, move on

their load of living freight and the mails sent out by 'Uncle Sam.' John

Skimmings, one of the early settlers at the mouth of Wills Creek, was

the general agent from Columbus to Wheeling, of the great Neil, Moore &

Co., whose lines cobwebbed the State of Ohio. Otho Hinton was the

United States mail agent to look after the mail robbers. He turned out

to be one himself, and was placed under arrest for opening the mails

between Cambridge and Washington. He was indicted and arraigned before

the United States court at Columbus, released on bail, and fled to

Honolulu, where he died in 1856.

"Gen. N. P. Flamage placed on the road what was called the opposition,

or Good Intent, line of stages. This was just after the Washingtonian

temperance movement. He made temperance speeches along the line, and

required his drivers to take the pledge. He stopped at Cambridge and

made a speech in the old Presbyterian church, and sang a song, his

drivers taking up the chorus. We give in substance, if not in word, a

verse:

'Our horses are true and coaches fine,

No upsets or runaways;

Nor drunken drivers to swear and curse,

For its cold water all the days.

CHORUS.

For our agents and drivers

Are all fully bent,

To go for cold water,

On line Good Intent,

Sing, go it, my hearties,

Cold water for me.'

"Isaac Cleaves was not behind as a caterer to the inner man, and a

dinner or supper by the stage passengers, after being rocked and tossed

at a six miles per hour rate, was relished even by Tippecanoe and

Corwin, too, and Democrats did not starve nor turn up their noses

because old Isaac was a Whig. He had a famous recipe for the cure of the

ague, which for its queer compound he was often required to give, not so

much for the ingredients; they were very simple; but for the first

preparation for the compound. This was to boil down a quart of water to

a pint. And to the inquiry, 'What is the water boiled down for, Uncle

Isaac?' he would reply, 'to make it stronger.'

"A little further, and last, was Major William Bradshaw, just over in

Belmont county. He was the soul of wit and humour, and gave out many

expressions that have become noted. To all that he did not feel disposed

to entertain, he gave the answer, 'Take the Janesville road.' His toast

drank in honor of the Fairview guards, a military company that had been

parading 'with plumes and banners gay,' just after the close of the

Mexican war, will live in the military history of Guernsey

county--'Soldiers in peace, civilians in war.'"

The Smiths above mentioned all drove stages on the road east of

Wheeling, before going to Ohio, and lived in Brownsville. All the male

members of the family were drivers, including Samuel, the father. His

sons were, Samuel, jr., Gilbert, Quill, Bate and Nat, familiar names in

the early history of the road.

The largest town on the line of the road west of Columbus, in the State

of Ohio, is Springfield, the capital of Clark county. The distance

between Columbus and Springfield is forty-five miles. Springfield

enjoyed for a number of years the advantages of the road, and felt a

pride in being on its line, but its growth and development, the result

of other agencies, have thrown a mantle of oblivion over the time when

the rattle of the stage coach and the rumble of road wagons furnished

the chief excitement of her streets.

The road penetrated Indiana at the boundary line of Wayne county, in

that State. The length of the line through Indiana is one hundred and

forty-nine and one-fourth miles, and the sum of $513,099 was expended on

it for bridges and masonry. Work was begun at Indianapolis and

prosecuted east and west from that point, in obedience to an act of

Congress given in the chapter on Appropriations. The road was completed

through Wayne county in 1827. It was not macadamized or graveled, and in

the year 1850 was absorbed by the Wayne County Turnpike Company, under a

charter granted by State authority. The length of this pike is

twenty-two miles.

The second section of the act incorporating the Wayne County Turnpike

Company reads as follows:

"The capital stock of said company shall be one hundred thousand

dollars, divided into shares of fifty dollars each, and shall be

applied to the construction of a turnpike road in Wayne county,

commencing at the western terminus of the Richmond turnpike, about

three miles east of Richmond, and to be continued westward on the

line of the National Road to the county line between the counties

of Henry and Wayne; and the State of Indiana hereby relinquishes to

said Wayne County Turnpike Company all the rights, interests, and

claims in and to the line of said National Road in said county of

Wayne; the grade, materials, bridges, constructions of all kinds

she now has, or may hereafter acquire from the General Government,

in and to the said National Road: _Provided_, That in case the

Federal Government should, at any time hereafter, determine to

resume the ownership and control of said road, said company shall

relinquish the same to the General Government, on receiving from it

the full cost of construction as expended by said company."

The section quoted discloses a point which the court of Somerset county,

Pennsylvania, seems to have overlooked when it condemned that portion of

the road lying within the borders of that county, took possession of its

property, and decreed it free from tolls. The several acts of Congress

ceding the road to Pennsylvania and the other States through which it

passed, reserved the right of Congress at any subsequent time to resume

ownership and control, and in case of the exercise of this reserved

right, the question arises, what would become of the decree of the

Somerset county court?

Prior to the construction of the National Road in Indiana, Robert

Morrisson, the founder of the Morrisson Library, of Richmond, and one

of the leading citizens of that place, was mainly instrumental in

causing a gravel road to be made from Richmond to Dayton, Ohio, which

was known as the "Richmond and Short Line Pike." The engineers of the

National Road adopted the line of Morrison's road in Indiana, with the

exception of one mile from a point near Clawson's tavern to the Ohio

State line. The Government survey carried the line east from Clawson's

tavern, and north of Sycamore Valley, over two long and steep hills,

separated by a deep valley. To avoid these hills on the Ohio side,

travel dropped down over a good country road to the Richmond and Short

Line Pike at the State line. This country road was afterwards

macadamized, but the distance between the State line and Clawson's

tavern has remained a gravel road until the present time, kept up and

used as a portion of the National road, instead of the line over the

hills north of Sycamore Valley.

Morrisson's company was merged in the Wayne County Turnpike Company in

1850. This company issued seven hundred and eighty shares of stock of

the par value of fifty dollars each, and operated its road until the

year 1890, when Jackson township, by virtue of a popular vote, purchased

that portion of it lying within her boundaries for the sum of $4,500,

and made it free of tolls. In 1893, Wayne township bought the road

within her boundaries for $11,000, and made it free. The preliminary

steps are now being taken by the citizens of Center township to take a

vote on a proposition to purchase the road within her borders. If this

measure carries the road will be free throughout its entire length in

Wayne county.

The Presidents of the Wayne County Turnpike Company have been Robert

Morrisson, Jacob Brooks, Edmund Laurence, William Parry, and Joseph C.

Ratliff, the last named having served continuously from 1871 to the

present time, a pleasant gentleman of fine executive abilities.