_The Author proceeds to Wassiboo — is joined by some fugitive
Kaartans, who accompany him in his Route through Bambarra. —
Discovers the Niger. — Some Account of Sego, the Capital of
Bambarra. — Mansong, the King, refuses to see the Author, but sends
him a Present. — Great Hospitality of a Negro Woman._
Wawra is a small town surrounded with high walls, and inhabited by a
mixture of Mandingoes and Foulahs. The inhabitants employ themselves
chiefly in cultivating corn, which they exchange with the Moors for
salt. Here, being in security from the Moors, and very much fatigued,
I resolved to rest myself; and meeting with a hearty welcome from the
Dooty, whose name was Flancharee, I laid myself down upon a bullock’s
hide, and slept soundly for about two hours. The curiosity of the
people would not allow me to sleep any longer. They had seen my
saddle and bridle, and were assembled in great number to learn who
I was, and whence I came. Some were of opinion that I was an Arab:
others insisted that I was some Moorish Sultan; and they continued to
debate the matter with such warmth, that the noise awoke me. The Dooty
(who had formerly been at Gambia) at last interposed in my behalf, and
assured them that I was certainly a white man; but he was convinced,
from my appearance, that I was a very poor one.
In the course of the day, several women, hearing that I was going to
Sego, came and begged me to inquire of Mansong, the king, what was
become of their children. One woman, in particular, told me that her
son’s name was Mamadee; that he was no Heathen, but prayed to God
morning and evening, and had been taken from her about three years ago,
by Mansong’s army; since which she had never heard of him. She said,
she often dreamed about him; and begged me, if I should see him, either
in Bambarra, or in my own country, to tell him, that his mother and
sister were still alive. In the afternoon, the Dooty examined the
contents of the leather bag, in which I had packed up my clothes;
but finding nothing that was worth taking, he returned it, and told
me to depart in the morning.
July 6th. It rained very much in the night, and at daylight I departed,
in company with a Negro, who was going to a town called Dingyee for
corn; but we had not proceeded above a mile, before the ass upon which
he rode kicked him off, and he returned, leaving me to prosecute the
journey by myself.
I reached Dingyee about noon; but the Dooty and most of the inhabitants
had gone into the fields to cultivate corn. An old Foulah, observing
me wandering about the town, desired me to come to his hut, where I
was well entertained; and the Dooty, when he returned, sent me some
victuals for myself, and corn for my horse.
July 7th. In the morning, when I was about to depart, my landlord,
with a great deal of diffidence, begged me to give him a lock of
my hair. He had been told, he said, that white men’s hair made a
saphie, that would give to the possessor all the knowledge of white
men. I had never before heard of so simple a mode of education,
but instantly complied with the request; and my landlord’s thirst
for learning was such, that, with cutting and pulling, he cropped one
side of my head pretty closely; and would have done the same with the
other, had I not signified my disapprobation, by putting on my hat,
and assuring him, that I wished to reserve some of this precious
merchandize for a future occasion.
I reached a small town called Wassiboo, about twelve o’clock,
where I was obliged to stop until an opportunity should offer of
procuring a guide to Satilé, which is distant a very long day’s
journey, through woods without any beaten path. I accordingly took up
my residence at the Dooty’s house, where I staid four days; during
which time I amused myself by going to the fields with the family to
plant corn. Cultivation is carried on here on a very extensive scale;
and, as the natives themselves express it, “hunger is never known.”
In cultivating the soil, the men and women work together. They use a
large sharp paddle, much superior to the paddle used in Gambia; but
they are obliged, for fear of the Moors, to carry their arms with them
to the field. The master, with the handle of his spear, marks the field
into regular plats, one of which is assigned to every three slaves.
On the evening of the 11th, eight of the fugitive Kaartans arrived at
Wassiboo. They had found it impossible to live under the tyrannical
government of the Moors, and were now going to transfer their
allegiance to the King of Bambarra. They offered to take me along
with them as far as Satilé; and I accepted the offer.
July 12th. At daybreak we set out, and travelled with uncommon
expedition until sunset: we stopped only twice in the course of the
day; once at a watering-place in the woods, and another time at the
ruins of a town, formerly belonging to Daisy, called _Illa-Compe_
(the corn town). When we arrived in the neighbourhood of Satilé, the
people who were employed in the corn fields, seeing so many horsemen,
took us for a party of Moors, and ran screaming away from us. The
whole town was instantly alarmed, and the slaves were seen, in every
direction, driving the cattle and horses towards the town. It was in
vain that one of our company galloped up to undeceive them: it only
frightened them the more; and when we arrived at the town, we found
the gates shut, and the people all under arms. After a long parley,
we were permitted to enter; and, as there was every appearance of a
heavy tornado, the Dooty allowed us to sleep in his baloon, and gave
us each a bullock’s hide for a bed.
July 13th. Early in the morning we again set forward. The roads were
wet and slippery, but the country was very beautiful, abounding with
rivulets, which were increased by the rain into rapid streams. About
ten o’clock, we came to the ruins of a village, which had been
destroyed by war about six months before; and in order to prevent
any town from being built there in future, the large Bentang tree,
under which the natives spent the day, had been burnt down; the
wells filled up; and every thing that could make the spot desirable
completely destroyed.
About noon, my horse was so much fatigued that I could not keep
up with my companions; I therefore dismounted, and desired them to
ride on, telling them, that I would follow as soon as my horse had
rested a little. But I found them unwilling to leave me: the lions,
they said, were very numerous in those parts, and though they might
not so readily attack a body of people, they would soon find out an
individual: it was therefore agreed, that one of the company should
stay with me, to assist in driving my horse, while the others passed
on to Galloo, to procure lodgings, and collect grass for the horses
before night. Accompanied by this worthy Negro, I drove my horse
before me until about four o’clock, when we came in sight of Galloo;
a considerable town, standing in a fertile and beautiful valley,
surrounded with high rocks.
As my companions had thoughts of settling in this neighbourhood,
they had a fine sheep given them by the Dooty; and I was fortunate
enough to procure plenty of corn for my horse. Here they blow upon
elephants’ teeth when they announce evening prayers, in the same
manner as at Kemmoo.
Early next morning, (July 14th,) having first returned many thanks
to our landlord for his hospitality, while my fellow-travellers
offered up their prayers that he might never want, we set forward;
and about three o’clock arrived at Moorja; a large town, famous for
its trade in salt, which the Moors bring here in great quantities,
to exchange for corn and cotton-cloth. As most of the people here
are Mahomedans, it is not allowed to the Kafirs to drink beer, which
they call _Neo-dollo_ (corn spirit,) except in certain houses. In
one of these I saw about twenty people sitting round large vessels of
this beer, with the greatest conviviality; many of them in a state of
intoxication. As corn is plentiful, the inhabitants are very liberal to
strangers: I believe we had as much corn and milk sent us by different
people, as would have been sufficient for three times our number;
and though we remained here two days, we experienced no diminution
of their hospitality.
On the morning of the 16th, we again set forward, accompanied by a
coffle of fourteen asses, loaded with salt, bound for Sansanding. The
road was particularly romantic, between two rocky hills; but the Moors
sometimes lie in wait here to plunder strangers. As soon as we had
reached the open country, the master of the salt coffle thanked us
for having staid with him so long, and now desired us to ride on. The
sun was almost set before we reached Datliboo. In the evening we had
a most tremendous tornado. The house in which we lodged, being flat
roofed, admitted the rain in streams; the floor was soon ankle deep,
the fire extinguished, and we were left to pass the night upon some
bundles of fire wood, that happened to lie in a corner.
July 17th. We departed from Datliboo; and about ten o’clock passed
a large coffle returning from Sego, with corn paddles, mats, and other
household utensils. At five o’clock we came to a large village, where
we intended to pass the night; but the Dooty would not receive us. When
we departed from this place, my horse was so much fatigued that I was
under the necessity of driving him, and it was dark before we reached
Fanimboo, a small village; the Dooty of which no sooner heard that I
was a white man, than he brought out three old muskets, and was much
disappointed when he was told that I could not repair them.
July 18th. We continued our journey; but, owing to a light supper
the preceding night, we felt ourselves rather hungry this morning,
and endeavoured to procure some corn at a village; but without
success. The towns were now more numerous, and the land that is not
employed in cultivation affords excellent pasturage for large herds of
cattle; but, owing to the great concourse of people daily going to and
returning from Sego, the inhabitants are less hospitable to strangers.
My horse becoming weaker and weaker every day, was now of very little
service to me: I was obliged to drive him before me for the greater
part of the day; and did not reach Geosorro until eight o’clock in
the evening. I found my companions wrangling with the Dooty, who had
absolutely refused to give or sell them any provisions; and as none of
us had tasted victuals for the last twenty-four hours, we were by no
means disposed to fast another day, if we could help it. But finding
our entreaties without effect, and being very much fatigued, I fell
asleep, from which I was awakened, about midnight, with the joyful
information “_kinne-nata_” (the victuals is come.) This made the
remainder of the night pass away pleasantly; and at daybreak, July
19th, we resumed our journey, proposing to stop at a village called
Doolinkeaboo, for the night following. My fellow-travellers, having
better horses than myself, soon left me; and I was walking barefoot,
driving my horse, when I was met by a coffle of slaves, about seventy
in number, coming from Sego. They were tied together by their necks
with thongs of a bullock’s hide, twisted like a rope; seven slaves
upon a thong; and a man with a musket between every seven. Many of the
slaves were ill conditioned, and a great number of them women. In the
rear came Sidi Mahomed’s servant, whom I remembered to have seen at
the camp of Benowm: he presently knew me, and told me that these slaves
were going to Morocco, by the way of Ludamar, and the Great Desert.
In the afternoon, as I approached Doolinkeaboo, I met about twenty
Moors on horseback, the owners of the slaves I had seen in the morning;
they were well armed with muskets, and were very inquisitive concerning
me, but not so rude as their countrymen generally are. From them I
learned that Sidi Mahomed was not at Sego, but had gone to Cancaba
for gold-dust.
When I arrived at Doolinkeaboo, I was informed that my
fellow-travellers had gone on; but my horse was so much fatigued that
I could not possibly proceed after them. The Dooty of the town, at my
request, gave me a draught of water, which is generally looked upon
as an earnest of greater hospitality; and I had no doubt of making
up for the toils of the day, by a good supper and a sound sleep:
unfortunately, I had neither one nor the other. The night was rainy
and tempestuous, and the Dooty limited his hospitality to the draught
of water.
July 20th. In the morning, I endeavoured, both by entreaties and
threats, to procure some victuals from the Dooty, but in vain. I even
begged some corn from one of his female slaves, as she was washing
it at the well, and had the mortification to be refused. However,
when the Dooty was gone to the fields, his wife sent me a handful
of meal, which I mixed with water, and drank for breakfast. About
eight o’clock, I departed from Doolinkeaboo, and at noon stopped a
few minutes at a large Korree; where I had some milk given me by the
Foulahs. And hearing that two Negroes were going from thence to Sego,
I was happy to have their company, and we set out immediately. About
four o’clock, we stopped at a small village, where one of the
Negroes met with an acquaintance, who invited us to a sort of public
entertainment, which was conducted with more than common propriety. A
dish, made of sour milk and meal, called _Sinkatoo_, and beer made
from their corn, was distributed with great liberality; and the
women were admitted into the society; a circumstance I had never
before observed in Africa. There was no compulsion; every one was at
liberty to drink as he pleased: they nodded to each other when about
to drink, and on setting down the calabash, commonly said _berka_,
(thank you). Both men and women, appeared to be somewhat intoxicated,
but they were far from being quarrelsome.
Departing from thence, we passed several large villages, where
I was constantly taken for a Moor, and became the subject of much
merriment to the Bambarrans; who, seeing me drive my horse before me,
laughed heartily at my appearance.—He has been at Mecca, says one;
you may see that by his clothes: another asked me if my horse was
sick; a third wished to purchase it, &c.; so that I believe the
very slaves were ashamed to be seen in my company. Just before it
was dark, we took up our lodging for the night at a small village,
where I procured some victuals for myself, and some corn for my horse,
at the moderate price of a button; and was told that I should see the
Niger (which the Negroes call Joliba, or _the great water_), early
the next day. The lions are here very numerous: the gates are shut
a little after sunset, and nobody allowed to go out. The thoughts
of seeing the Niger in the morning, and the troublesome buzzing
of musketoes, prevented me from shutting my eyes during the night;
and I had saddled my horse, and was in readiness before daylight;
but, on account of the wild beasts, we were obliged to wait until
the people were stirring, and the gates opened. This happened to be a
market-day at Sego, and the roads were every where filled with people,
carrying different articles to sell. We passed four large villages,
and at eight o’clock saw the smoke over Sego.
As we approached the town, I was fortunate enough to overtake the
fugitive Kaartans, to whose kindness I had been so much indebted
in my journey through Bambarra. They readily agreed to introduce
me to the king; and we rode together through some marshy ground,
where, as I was anxiously looking around for the river, one of them
called out, _geo affilli_, (see the water); and looking forwards,
I saw with infinite pleasure the great object of my mission; the
long sought for, majestic Niger, glittering to the morning sun,
as broad as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing slowly _to the
eastward_. I hastened to the brink, and, having drank of the water,
lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer, to the Great Ruler of all
things, for having thus far crowned my endeavours with success.
The circumstance of the Niger’s flowing towards the east, and its
collateral points, did not, however, excite my surprise; for although
I had left Europe in great hesitation on this subject, and rather
believed that it ran in the contrary direction, I had made such
frequent inquiries during my progress, concerning this river; and
received from Negroes of different nations, such clear and decisive
assurances that its general course was _towards the rising sun_, as
scarce left any doubt on my mind; and more especially as I knew that
Major Houghton, had collected similar information, in the same manner.
Sego, the capital of Bambarra, at which I had now arrived, consists,
properly speaking, of four distinct towns; two on the northern
bank of the Niger, called Sego Korro, and Sego Boo; and two on the
southern bank, called Sego Soo Korro, and Sego See Korro. They are
all surrounded with high mud-walls; the houses are built of clay,
of a square form, with flat roofs; some of them have two stories, and
many of them are whitewashed. Besides these buildings, Moorish mosques
are seen in every quarter; and the streets, though narrow, are broad
enough for every useful purpose, in a country where wheel carriages
are entirely unknown. From the best inquiries I could make, I have
reason to believe that Sego contains altogether about thirty thousand
inhabitants. The King of Bambarra constantly resides at Sego See Korro;
he employs a great many slaves in conveying people over the river, and
the money they receive (though the fare is only ten Kowrie shells for
each individual) furnishes a considerable revenue to the king, in the
course of a year. The canoes are of a singular construction, each of
them being formed of the trunks of two large trees, rendered concave,
and joined together, not side by side, but end ways; the junction being
exactly across the middle of the canoe: they are therefore very long
and disproportionably narrow, and have neither decks nor masts; they
are, however, very roomy; for I observed in one of them four horses,
and several people, crossing over the river. When we arrived at this
ferry, we found a great number waiting for a passage; they looked at
me with silent wonder, and I distinguished, with concern, many Moors
among them. There were three different places of embarkation, and the
ferrymen were very diligent and expeditious; but, from the crowd of
people, I could not immediately obtain a passage; and sat down upon
the bank of the river, to wait for a more favourable opportunity. The
view of this extensive city; the numerous canoes upon the river;
the crowded population, and the cultivated state of the surrounding
country, formed altogether a prospect of civilization and magnificence,
which I little expected to find in the bosom of Africa.
I waited more than two hours, without having an opportunity of
crossing the river; during which time the people who had crossed,
carried information to Mansong the King, that a white man was
waiting for a passage, and was coming to see him. He immediately sent
over one of his chief men, who informed me that the king could not
possibly see me, until he knew what had brought me into his country;
and that I must not presume to cross the river without the king’s
permission. He therefore advised me to lodge at a distant village,
to which he pointed, for the night; and said that in the morning he
would give me further instructions how to conduct myself. This was
very discouraging. However, as there was no remedy, I set off for the
village; where I found, to my great mortification, that no person
would admit me into his house. I was regarded with astonishment
and fear, and was obliged to sit all day without victuals, in the
shade of a tree; and the night threatened to be very uncomfortable,
for the wind rose, and there was great appearance of a heavy rain;
and the wild beasts are so very numerous in the neighbourhood, that
I should have been under the necessity of climbing up the tree,
and resting amongst the branches. About sunset, however, as I was
preparing to pass the night in this manner, and had turned my horse
loose, that he might graze at liberty, a woman, returning from the
labours of the field, stopped to observe me, and perceiving that I
was weary and dejected, inquired into my situation, which I briefly
explained to her; whereupon, with looks of great compassion, she took
up my saddle and bridle, and told me to follow her. Having conducted
me into her hut, she lighted up a lamp, spread a mat on the floor,
and told me I might remain there for the night. Finding that I was
very hungry, she said she would procure me something to eat. She
accordingly went out, and returned in a short time with a very fine
fish; which, having caused to be half broiled upon some embers, she
gave me for supper. The rites of hospitality being thus performed
towards a stranger in distress; my worthy benefactress (pointing to
the mat, and telling me I might sleep there without apprehension)
called to the female part of her family, who had stood gazing on me
all the while in fixed astonishment, to resume their task of spinning
cotton; in which they continued to employ themselves great part of
the night. They lightened their labour by songs, one of which was
composed extempore; for I was myself the subject of it. It was sung
by one of the young women, the rest joining in a sort of chorus. The
air was sweet and plaintive, and the words, literally translated,
were these.—“The winds roared, and the rains fell.—The poor
white man, faint and weary, came and sat under our tree.—He has no
mother to bring him milk; no wife to grind his corn. _Chorus_. Let
us pity the white man; no mother has he, &c. &c.” Trifling as this
recital may appear to the reader, to a person in my situation, the
circumstance was affecting in the highest degree. I was oppressed by
such unexpected kindness; and sleep fled from my eyes. In the morning I
presented my compassionate landlady with two of the four brass buttons
which remained on my waistcoat; the only recompence I could make her.
July 21st. I continued in the village all this day, in conversation
with the natives, who came in crowds to see me; but was rather uneasy
towards evening, to find that no message had arrived from the king;
the more so, as the people began to whisper, that Mansong had received
some very unfavourable accounts of me, from the Moors and Slatees
residing at Sego; who it seems were exceedingly suspicious concerning
the motives of my journey. I learnt that many consultations had been
held with the king, concerning my reception and disposal; and some
of the villagers frankly told me, that I had many enemies, and must
expect no favour.
July 22d. About eleven o’clock, a messenger arrived from the king;
but he gave me very little satisfaction. He inquired particularly
if I had brought any present; and seemed much disappointed when he
was told that I had been robbed of every thing by the Moors. When I
proposed to go along with him, he told me to stop until the afternoon,
when the king would send for me.
July 23d. In the afternoon, another messenger arrived from Mansong,
with a bag in his hands. He told me, it was the king’s pleasure
that I should depart forthwith from the vicinage of Sego; but that
Mansong, wishing to relieve a white man in distress, had sent me
five thousand Kowries,[13] to enable me to purchase provisions in
the course of my journey: the messenger added, that if my intentions
were really to proceed to Jenné, he had orders to accompany me as
a guide to Sansanding. I was at first puzzled to account for this
behaviour of the king; but, from the conversation I had with the guide,
I had afterward reason to believe, that Mansong would willingly have
admitted me into his presence at Sego; but was apprehensive he might
not be able to protect me, against the blind and inveterate malice of
the Moorish inhabitants. His conduct, therefore, was at once prudent
and liberal. The circumstances under which I made my appearance at
Sego, were undoubtedly such as might create in the mind of the king,
a well warranted suspicion that I wished to conceal the true object
of my journey. He argued, probably, as my guide argued; who, when he
was told, that I had come from a great distance, and through many
dangers, to behold the Joliba river, naturally inquired, if there
were no rivers in my own country, and whether one river was not like
another. Notwithstanding this, and in spite of the jealous machinations
of the Moors, this benevolent prince thought it sufficient, that
a white man was found in his dominions, in a condition of extreme
wretchedness; and that no other plea was necessary to entitle the
sufferer to his bounty.
[Footnote 13: Mention has already been made of these little shells,
(p. 27) which pass current as money, in many parts of the East-Indies,
as well as Africa. In Bambarra, and the adjacent countries, where the
necessaries of life are very cheap, one hundred of them would commonly
purchase a day’s provisions for myself, and corn for my horse. I
reckoned about two hundred and fifty Kowries, equal to one shilling.]