_The Author feels great Joy at his Deliverance, and proceeds through
the Wilderness, E.S.E.; but finds his Situation very deplorable. —
Suffers greatly from Thirst, and faints on the Sand: — recovers,
and makes another Effort to push forward. — Is providentially
relieved by a Fall of Rain. — Arrives at a Foulah Village, where he
is refused Relief by the Dooty; but obtains Food from a poor Woman. —
Continues his Journey through the Wilderness, and the next Day lights
on another Foulah Village, where he is hospitably received by one of
the Shepherds. — Arrives on the third Day at a Negro Town called
Wawra, tributary to the King of Bambarra._
It is impossible to describe the joy that arose in my mind, when I
looked around and concluded that I was out of danger. I felt like one
recovered from sickness; I breathed freer; I found unusual lightness
in my limbs; even the Desert looked pleasant; and I dreaded nothing
so much as falling in with some wandering parties of Moors, who might
convey me back to the land of thieves and murderers, from which I
had just escaped.
I soon became sensible, however, that my situation was very
deplorable; for I had no means of procuring food, nor prospect of
finding water. About ten o’clock, perceiving a herd of goats feeding
close to the road, I took a circuitous route to avoid being seen;
and continued travelling through the Wilderness, directing my course,
by compass, nearly east-south-east, in order to reach, as soon as
possible, some town or village of the kingdom of Bambarra.
A little after noon, when the burning heat of the sun was reflected
with double violence from the hot sand, and the distant ridges
of the hills, seen through the ascending vapour, seemed to wave
and fluctuate like the unsettled sea, I became faint with thirst,
and climbed a tree in hopes of seeing distant smoke, or some other
appearance of a human habitation; but in vain: nothing appeared all
around but thick underwood, and hillocks of white sand.
About four o’clock, I came suddenly upon a large herd of goats,
and pulling my horse into a bush, I watched to observe if the keepers
were Moors or Negroes. In a little time I perceived two Moorish boys,
and with some difficulty persuaded them to approach me. They informed
me that the herd belonged to Ali, and that they were going to Deena,
where the water was more plentiful, and where they intended to stay,
until the rain had filled the pools in the Desert. They shewed me
their empty water-skins, and told me that they had seen no water in
the woods. This account afforded me but little consolation; however,
it was in vain to repine, and I pushed on as fast as possible, in
hopes of reaching some watering-place in the course of the night. My
thirst was by this time become insufferable; my mouth was parched and
inflamed; a sudden dimness would frequently come over my eyes, with
other symptoms of fainting; and my horse being very much fatigued,
I began seriously to apprehend that I should perish of thirst. To
relieve the burning pain in my mouth and throat, I chewed the leaves of
different shrubs, but found them all bitter, and of no service to me.
A little before sunset, having reached the top of a gentle rising,
I climbed a high tree, from the topmost branches of which I cast a
melancholy look over the barren Wilderness, but without discovering
the most distant trace of a human dwelling. The same dismal uniformity
of shrubs and sand every where presented itself, and the horizon was
as level and uninterrupted as that of the sea.
Descending from the tree, I found my horse devouring the stubble and
brushwood with great avidity; and as I was now too faint to attempt
walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry me, I thought it
but an act of humanity, and perhaps the last I should ever have it
in my power to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shift
for himself; in doing which I was suddenly affected with sickness
and giddiness; and falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of
death was fast approaching. “Here then, thought I, after a short
but ineffectual struggle, terminate all my hopes of being useful in
my day and generation: here must the short span of my life come to
an end.”—I cast (as I believed) a last look on the surrounding
scene, and whilst I reflected on the awful change that was about
to take place, this world with its enjoyments seemed to vanish from
my recollection. Nature, however, at length resumed its functions;
and on recovering my senses, I found myself stretched upon the sand,
with the bridle still in my hand, and the sun just sinking behind the
trees. I now summoned all my resolution, and determined to make another
effort to prolong my existence. And as the evening was somewhat cool,
I resolved to travel as far as my limbs would carry me, in hopes of
reaching (my only resource) a watering-place. With this view, I put the
bridle on my horse, and driving him before me, went slowly along for
about an hour, when I perceived some lightning from the north-east;
a most delightful sight; for it promised rain. The darkness and
lightning increased very rapidly; and in less than an hour I heard
the wind roaring among the bushes. I had already opened my mouth to
receive the refreshing drops which I expected; but I was instantly
covered with a cloud of sand, driven with such force by the wind as
to give a very disagreeable sensation to my face and arms; and I was
obliged to mount my horse, and stop under a bush, to prevent being
suffocated. The sand continued to fly in amazing quantities for near an
hour, after which I again set forward, and travelled with difficulty,
until ten o’clock. About this time I was agreeably surprised by
some very vivid flashes of lightning, followed by a few heavy drops
of rain. In a little time the sand ceased to fly, and I alighted, and
spread out all my clean clothes to collect the rain, which at length I
saw would certainly fall. For more than an hour it rained plentifully,
and I quenched my thirst, by wringing and sucking my clothes.
There being no moon, it was remarkably dark, so that I was obliged to
lead my horse, and direct my way by the compass, which the lightning
enabled me to observe. In this manner I travelled, with tolerable
expedition, until past midnight; when, the lightning becoming more
distant, I was under the necessity of groping along, to the no small
danger of my hands and eyes. About two o’clock my horse started at
something, and looking round, I was not a little surprised to see a
light at a short distance among the trees, and supposing it to be a
town, I groped along the sand in hopes of finding corn-stalks, cotton,
or other appearances of cultivation, but found none. As I approached,
I perceived a number of other lights in different places, and began
to suspect that I had fallen upon a party of Moors. However, in my
present situation, I was resolved to see who they were, if I could
do it with safety. I accordingly led my horse cautiously towards the
light, and heard by the lowing of the cattle, and the clamorous tongues
of the herdsmen, that it was a watering-place, and most likely belonged
to the Moors. Delightful as the sound of the human voice was to me,
I resolved once more to strike into the woods, and rather run the
risk of perishing of hunger, than trust myself again in their hands;
but being still thirsty, and dreading the approach of the burning day,
I thought it prudent to search for the wells, which I expected to find
at no great distance. In this pursuit, I inadvertently approached
so near to one of the tents, as to be perceived by a woman, who
immediately screamed out. Two people came running to her assistance
from some of the neighbouring tents, and passed so very near to me,
that I thought I was discovered; and hastened again into the woods.
About a mile from this place, I heard a loud and confused noise
somewhere to the right of my course, and in a short time was happy
to find it was the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly music to my
ears. I followed the sound, and at daybreak arrived at some shallow
muddy pools, so full of frogs, that it was difficult to discern the
water. The noise they made frightened my horse, and I was obliged
to keep them quiet, by beating the water with a branch until he had
drank. Having here quenched my thirst, I ascended a tree, and the
morning being calm, I soon perceived the smoke of the watering-place
which I had passed in the night; and observed another pillar of smoke
east-south-east, distant 12 or 14 miles. Towards this I directed
my route, and reached the cultivated ground a little before eleven
o’clock; where seeing a number of Negroes at work planting corn,
I inquired the name of the town; and was informed that it was a Foulah
village, belonging to Ali, called Shrilla. I had now some doubts about
entering it; but my horse being very much fatigued, and the day growing
hot, not to mention the pangs of hunger which began to assail me, I
resolved to venture; and accordingly rode up to the Dooty’s house,
where I was unfortunately denied admittance, and could not obtain
even a handful of corn, either for myself or horse. Turning from this
inhospitable door, I rode slowly out of the town, and perceiving some
low scattered huts without the walls, I directed my route towards them;
knowing that in Africa, as well as in Europe, hospitality does not
always prefer the highest dwellings. At the door of one of these huts,
an old motherly-looking woman sat, spinning cotton; I made signs to
her that I was hungry, and inquired if she had any victuals with her
in the hut. She immediately laid down her distaff, and desired me, in
Arabic, to come in. When I had seated myself upon the floor, she set
before me a dish of kouskous, that had been left the preceding night,
of which I made a tolerable meal; and in return for this kindness I
gave her one of my pocket-handkerchiefs; begging at the same time,
a little corn for my horse, which she readily brought me.
Overcome with joy at so unexpected a deliverance, I lifted up
my eyes to heaven, and whilst my heart swelled with gratitude, I
returned thanks to that gracious and bountiful Being, whose power
had supported me under so many dangers, and had now spread for me a
table in the Wilderness.
Whilst my horse was feeding, the people began to assemble, and one of
them whispered something to my hostess, which very much excited her
surprise. Though I was not well acquainted with the Foulah language,
I soon discovered that some of the men wished to apprehend and carry me
back to Ali; in hopes, I suppose, of receiving a reward. I therefore
tied up the corn; and lest any one should suspect I had ran away from
the Moors, I took a northerly direction, and went cheerfully along,
driving my horse before me, followed by all the boys and girls of
the town. When I had travelled about two miles, and got quit of all
my troublesome attendants, I struck again into the woods, and took
shelter under a large tree; where I found it necessary to rest myself;
a bundle of twigs serving me for a bed, and my saddle for a pillow.
I was awakened about two o’clock by three Foulahs, who, taking me for
a Moor, pointed to the sun, and told me it was time to pray. Without
entering into conversation with them, I saddled my horse and continued
my journey. I travelled over a level, but more fertile country, than
I had seen for some time, until sunset, when, coming to a path that
took a southerly direction, I followed it until midnight, at which
time I arrived at a small pool of rain-water, and the wood being open,
I determined to rest by it for the night. Having given my horse the
remainder of the corn, I made my bed as formerly: but the musketoes
and flies from the pool prevented sleep for some time, and I was
twice disturbed in the night by wild beasts, which came very near,
and whose howlings kept the horse in continual terror.
July 4th. At daybreak I pursued my course through the woods as
formerly: saw numbers of antelopes, wild hogs, and ostriches; but the
soil was more hilly, and not so fertile as I had found it the preceding
day. About eleven o’clock I ascended an eminence, where I climbed
a tree, and discovered at about eight miles distance, an open part of
the country, with several red spots, which I concluded were cultivated
land; and directing my course that way, came to the precincts of
a watering-place, about one o’clock. From the appearance of the
place, I judged it to belong to the Foulahs, and was hopeful that I
should meet a better reception than I had experienced at Shrilla. In
this I was not deceived; for one of the shepherds invited me to come
into his tent, and partake of some dates. This was one of those low
Foulah tents in which there is room just sufficient to sit upright,
and in which the family, the furniture, &c. seem huddled together
like so many articles in a chest. When I had crept upon my hands
and knees into this humble habitation, I found that it contained a
woman and three children; who, together with the shepherd and myself,
completely occupied the floor. A dish of boiled corn and dates was
produced, and the master of the family, as is customary in this part
of the country, first tasted it himself, and then desired me to follow
his example. Whilst I was eating, the children kept their eyes fixed
upon me; and no sooner did the shepherd pronounce the word _Nazarani_,
than they began to cry, and their mother crept slowly towards the
door, out of which she sprang like a greyhound, and was instantly
followed by her children. So frightened were they at the very name
of a Christian, that no entreaties could induce them to approach the
tent. Here I purchased some corn for my horse in exchange for some
brass buttons; and having thanked the shepherd for his hospitality,
struck again into the woods. At sunset, I came to a road that took the
direction for Bambarra, and resolved to follow it for the night; but
about eight o’clock, hearing some people coming from the southward,
I thought it prudent to hide myself among some thick bushes near the
road. As these thickets are generally full of wild beasts, I found my
situation rather unpleasant; sitting in the dark, holding my horse by
the nose, with both hands, to prevent him from neighing, and equally
afraid of the natives without, and the wild beasts within. My fears,
however, were soon dissipated; for the people, after looking round
the thicket, and perceiving nothing, went away; and I hastened to the
more open parts of the wood, where I pursued my journey E.S.E, until
past midnight; when the joyful cry of frogs induced me once more to
deviate a little from my route, in order to quench my thirst. Having
accomplished this, from a large pool of rain water, I sought for an
open place, with a single tree in the midst, under which I made my
bed for the night. I was disturbed by some wolves towards morning,
which induced me to set forward a little before day; and having
passed a small village called Wassalita, I came about ten o’clock
(July 5th,) to a Negro town called Wawra, which properly belongs to
Kaarta, but was at this time tributary to Mansong, King of Bambarra.