_Departure from Sego, and Arrival at Kabba. — Description of the
Shea, or vegetable Butter Tree. — The Author and his Guide arrive
at Sansanding. Behaviour of the Moors at that Place. — The Author
pursues his Journey to the Eastward. — Incidents on the Road. —
Arrives at Modiboo, and proceeds for Kea; but obliged to leave his
Horse by the Way. — Embarks at Kea in a Fisherman’s Canoe for
Moorzan; is conveyed from thence across the Niger to Silla. —
Determines to proceed no further Eastward. — Some Account of the
further Course of the Niger, and the Towns in its Vicinage, towards
the East._
Being, in the manner that has been related, compelled to leave Sego,
I was conducted the same evening to a village about seven miles
to the eastward, with some of the inhabitants of which my guide
was acquainted, and by whom we were well received.[14] He was very
friendly and communicative, and spoke highly of the hospitality of
his countrymen; but withal told me, that if Jenné was the place
of my destination, which he seemed to have hitherto doubted, I had
undertaken an enterprize of greater danger than probably I was apprized
of; for, although the town of Jenné was, nominally, a part of the
King of Bambarra’s dominions, it was in fact, he said, a city of
the Moors; the leading part of the inhabitants being Bushreens, and
even the governor himself, though appointed by Mansong, of the same
sect. Thus was I in danger of falling a second time into the hands
of men who would consider it not only justifiable, but meritorious,
to destroy me; and this reflection was aggravated by the circumstance
that the danger increased, as I advanced in my journey; for I learned
that the places beyond Jenné were under the Moorish influence, in
a still greater degree than Jenné itself; and Tombuctoo, the great
object of my search, altogether in possession of that savage and
merciless people, who allow no Christian to live there. But I had
now advanced too far to think of returning to the westward, on such
vague and uncertain information, and determined to proceed; and being
accompanied by the guide, I departed from the village on the morning of
the 24th. About eight o’clock, we passed a large town called Kabba,
situated in the midst of a beautiful and highly cultivated country;
bearing a greater resemblance to the centre of England, than to what
I should have supposed had been the middle of Africa. The people were
every where employed in collecting the fruit of the Shea trees, from
which they prepare the vegetable butter, mentioned in former parts of
this work. These trees grow in great abundance all over this part of
Bambarra. They are not planted by the natives, but are found growing
naturally in the woods; and, in clearing wood land for cultivation,
every tree is cut down but the Shea. The tree itself, very much
resembles the American oak; and the fruit, from the kernel of which,
being first dried in the sun, the butter is prepared, by boiling the
kernel in water, has somewhat the appearance of a Spanish olive. The
kernel is enveloped in a sweet pulp, under a thin green rind; and
the butter produced from it, besides the advantage of its keeping the
whole year without salt; is whiter, firmer, and, to my palate, of a
richer flavour, than the best butter I ever tasted made from cows’
milk. The growth and preparation of this commodity, seem to be among
the first objects of African industry in this and the neighbouring
states; and it constitutes a main article of their inland commerce.
We passed, in the course of the day, a great many villages,
inhabited chiefly by fishermen; and in the evening about five
o’clock arrived at Sansanding; a very large town, containing, as
I was told, from eight to ten thousand inhabitants. This place is
much resorted to by the Moors, who bring salt from Beeroo, and beads
and coral from the Mediterranean, to exchange here for gold-dust,
and cotton-cloth. This cloth they sell to great advantage in Beeroo,
and other Moorish countries, where, on account of the want of rain,
no cotton is cultivated.
I desired my guide to conduct me to the house in which we were to
lodge, by the most private way possible. We accordingly rode along
between the town and the river, passing by a creek or harbour, in
which I observed twenty large canoes, most of them fully loaded, and
covered with mats, to prevent the rain from injuring the goods. As
we proceeded, three other canoes arrived, two with passengers, and
one with goods. I was happy to find, that all the Negro inhabitants
took me for a Moor; under which character I should probably have
passed unmolested, had not a Moor, who was sitting by the river side,
discovered the mistake, and setting up a loud exclamation, brought
together a number of his countrymen.
When I arrived at the house of Counti Mamadi, the Dooty of the town,
I was surrounded with hundreds of people, speaking a variety of
different dialects, all equally unintelligible to me. At length, by
the assistance of my guide, who acted as interpreter, I understood
that one of the spectators pretended to have seen me at one place,
and another at some other place; and a Moorish woman, absolutely
swore that she had kept my house three years at Gallam, on the river
Senegal. It was plain that they mistook me for some other person; and
I desired two of the most confident, to point towards the place where
they had seen me. They pointed due south; hence I think it probable
that they came from Cape Coast, where they might have seen many white
men. Their language was different from any I had yet heard. The Moors
now assembled in great number; with their usual arrogance, compelling
the Negroes to stand at a distance. They immediately began to question
me concerning my religion; but finding that I was not master of the
Arabic, they sent for two men, whom they call _Ilhuidi_ (Jews), in
hopes that they might be able to converse with me. These Jews, in
dress and appearance, very much resemble the Arabs; but though they
so far conform to the religion of Mahomet, as to recite, in public,
prayers from the Koran; they are but little respected by the Negroes;
and even the Moors themselves allowed, that though I was a Christian,
I was a better man than a Jew. They, however, insisted that, like the
Jews, I must conform so far as to repeat the Mahomedan prayers; and
when I attempted to wave the subject, by telling them that I could not
speak Arabic, one of them, a Shereef from Tuat, in the Great Desert,
started up and swore by the Prophet, that if I refused to go to the
mosque, he would be one that would assist in carrying me thither. And
there is no doubt but this threat would have been immediately executed,
had not my landlord interposed in my behalf. He told them, that I was
the king’s stranger, and he could not see me ill treated, whilst I
was under his protection. He therefore advised them to let me alone for
the night; assuring them, that, in the morning, I should be sent about
my business. This somewhat appeased their clamour; but they compelled
me to ascend a high seat, by the door of the mosque, in order that
every body might see me; for the people had assembled in such numbers
as to be quite ungovernable; climbing upon the houses, and squeezing
each other, like the spectators at an execution. Upon this seat I
remained until sunset, when I was conducted into a neat little hut,
with a small court before it; the door of which Counti Mamadi shut,
to prevent any person from disturbing me. But this precaution could
not exclude the Moors. They climbed over the top of the mud-wall,
and came in crowds into the court, in order, they said, to see me
_perform my evening devotions, and eat eggs_. The former of these
ceremonies, I did not think proper to comply with; but I told them
I had no objection to eat eggs, provided they would bring me eggs to
eat. My landlord immediately brought me seven hen’s eggs, and was
much surprised to find that I could not eat them raw; for it seems
to be a prevalent opinion among the inhabitants of the interior, that
Europeans subsist almost entirely on this diet. When I had succeeded,
in persuading my landlord that this opinion was without foundation,
and that I would gladly partake of any victuals which he might think
proper to send me; he ordered a sheep to be killed, and part of it to
be dressed for my supper. About midnight, when the Moors had left me,
he paid me a visit, and with much earnestness, desired me to write
him a saphie. “If a Moor’s saphie is good, (said this hospitable
old man), a white man’s must needs be better.” I readily furnished
him with one, possessed of all the virtues I could concentrate; for it
contained the Lord’s prayer. The pen with which it was written was
made of a reed; a little charcoal and gum-water made very tolerable
ink, and a thin board answered the purpose of paper.
July 25th. Early in the morning, before the Moors were assembled, I
departed from Sansanding, and slept the ensuing night at a small town
called Sibili; from whence, on the day following, I reached Nyara, a
large town at some distance from the river, where I halted the 27th,
to have my clothes washed, and recruit my horse. The Dooty there has
a very commodious house, flat roofed, and two stories high. He shewed
me some gunpowder of his own manufacturing: and pointed out as a great
curiosity, a little brown monkey, that was tied to a stake by the door,
telling me that it came from a far distant country, called Kong.
July 28th. I departed from Nyara, and reached Nyamee about noon. This
town is inhabited chiefly by Foulahs, from the kingdom of Masina. The
Dooty (I know not why), would not receive me, but civilly sent his
son on horseback, to conduct me to Modiboo; which he assured me was
at no great distance.
We rode nearly in a direct line, through the woods; but in general
went forwards with great circumspection. I observed that my guide
frequently stopped, and looked under the bushes. On inquiring the
reason of this caution, he told me that lions were very numerous in
that part of the country, and frequently attacked people travelling
through the woods. While he was speaking, my horse started, and
looking round, I observed a large animal of the camelopard kind,
standing at a little distance. The neck and fore legs were very long;
the head was furnished with two short black horns, turning backwards;
the tail, which reached down to the ham joint, had a tuft of hair
at the end. The animal was of a mouse colour; and it trotted away
from us in a very sluggish manner; moving its head from side to
side, to see if we were pursuing it. Shortly after this, as we were
crossing a large open plain, where there were a few scattered bushes,
my guide, who was a little way before me, wheeled his horse round in a
moment, calling out something in the Foulah language, which I did not
understand. I inquired in Mandingo what he meant; _Wara billi billi_,
a very large lion, said he; and made signs for me to ride away. But
my horse was too much fatigued: so we rode slowly past the bush,
from which the animal had given us the alarm. Not seeing any thing
myself, however, I thought my guide had been mistaken, when the Foulah
suddenly put his hand to his mouth, exclaiming, _Soubah an allahi_,
(God preserve us!) and to my great surprise, I then perceived a large
red lion, at a short distance from the bush, with his head couched
between his fore paws. I expected he would instantly spring upon me,
and instinctively pulled my feet from my stirrups, to throw myself
on the ground, that my horse might become the victim, rather than
myself. But it is probable the lion was not hungry; for he quietly
suffered us to pass, though we were fairly within his reach. My eyes
were so riveted upon this sovereign of the beasts, that I found it
impossible to remove them, until we were at a considerable distance. We
now took a circuitous route, through some swampy ground, to avoid
any more of these disagreeable rencounters. At sunset we arrived at
Modiboo; a delightful village on the banks of the Niger, commanding a
view of the river for many miles, both to the east and west. The small
green islands (the peaceful retreat of some industrious Foulahs, whose
cattle are here secure from the depredations of wild beasts), and the
majestic breadth of the river, which is here much larger than at Sego,
render the situation one of the most enchanting in the world. Here are
caught great plenty of fish, by means of long cotton nets, which the
natives make themselves; and use nearly in the same manner as nets are
used in Europe. I observed the head of a crocodile lying upon one of
the houses, which they told me had been killed by the shepherds, in
a swamp near the town. These animals are not uncommon in the Niger;
but I believe they are not oftentimes found dangerous. They are
of little account to the traveller, when compared with the amazing
swarms of musketoes, which rise from the swamps and creeks, in such
numbers as to harass even the most torpid of the natives; and as
my clothes were now almost worn to rags, I was but ill prepared to
resist their attacks. I usually passed the night, without shutting
my eyes, walking backwards and forwards, fanning myself with my hat;
their stings raised numerous blisters on my legs and arms; which,
together with the want of rest, made me very feverish and uneasy.
July 29th. Early in the morning, my landlord observing that I
was sickly, hurried me away; sending a servant with me as a guide
to Kea. But though I was little able to walk, my horse was still
less able to carry me; and about six miles to the east of Modiboo,
in crossing some rough clayey ground, he fell; and the united
strength of the guide and myself, could not place him again upon
his legs. I sat down for some time, beside this worn-out associate
of my adventures; but finding him still unable to rise, I took off
the saddle and bridle, and placed a quantity of grass before him. I
surveyed the poor animal, as he lay panting on the ground, with
sympathetic emotion; for I could not suppress the sad apprehension,
that I should myself, in a short time, lie down and perish in the same
manner, of fatigue and hunger. With this foreboding, I left my poor
horse; and with great reluctance followed my guide on foot, along
the bank of the river, until about noon; when we reached Kea, which
I found to be nothing more than a small fishing village. The Dooty,
a surly old man, who was sitting by the gate, received me very coolly;
and when I informed him of my situation, and begged his protection,
told me, with great indifference, that he paid very little attention
to fine speeches, and that I should not enter his house. My guide
remonstrated in my favour, but to no purpose; for the Dooty remained
inflexible in his determination. I knew not where to rest my wearied
limbs, but was happily relieved by a fishing canoe belonging to Silla,
which was at that moment coming down the river. The Dooty waved to the
fisherman to come near, and desired him to take charge of me as far as
Moorzan. The fisherman, after some hesitation, consented to carry me;
and I embarked in the canoe, in company with the fisherman, his wife,
and a boy. The Negro, who had conducted me from Modiboo, now left me;
I requested him to look to my horse on his return, and take care of
him if he was still alive, which he promised to do.
Departing from Kea, we proceeded about a mile down the river, when
the fisherman paddled the canoe to the bank, and desired me to jump
out. Having tied the canoe to a stake, he stripped off his clothes,
and dived for such a length of time, that I thought he had actually
drowned himself, and was surprised to see his wife behave with so
much indifference upon the occasion; but my fears were over when he
raised up his head astern of the canoe, and called for a rope. With
this rope he dived a second time; and then got into the canoe, and
ordered the boy to assist him in pulling. At length, they brought
up a large basket, about ten feet in diameter, containing two fine
fish, which the fisherman (after returning the basket into the water),
immediately carried ashore, and hid in the grass. We then went a little
farther down, and took up another basket, in which was one fish. The
fisherman now left us, to carry his prizes to some neighbouring market;
and the woman and boy proceeded with me in the canoe, down the river.
About four o’clock, we arrived at Moorzan, a fishing town on the
northern bank; from whence I was conveyed across the river to Silla,
a large town; where I remained until it was quite dark, under a
tree, surrounded by hundreds of people. But their language was very
different from the other parts of Bambarra; and I was informed that,
in my progress eastward, the Bambarra tongue was but little understood,
and that when I reached Jenné, I should find that the majority of
the inhabitants spoke a different language, called _Jenné Kummo_
by the Negroes; and _Kalam Soudan_, by the Moors.
With a great deal of entreaty, the Dooty allowed me to come into his
baloon, to avoid the rain; but the place was very damp, and I had
a smart paroxysm of fever, during the night. Worn down by sickness,
exhausted with hunger and fatigue; half naked, and without any article
of value, by which I might procure provisions, clothes, or lodging;
I began to reflect seriously on my situation. I was now convinced,
by painful experience, that the obstacles to my further progress were
insurmountable. The tropical rains were already set in, with all their
violence; the rice grounds and swamps, were every where overflowed;
and, in a few days more, travelling of every kind, unless by water,
would be completely obstructed. The Kowries which remained of the King
of Bambarra’s present, were not sufficient to enable me to hire a
canoe for any great distance; and I had but little hopes of subsisting
by charity, in a country where the Moors have such influence. But
above all, I perceived that I was advancing, more and more, within
the power of those merciless fanatics; and from my reception both at
Sego and Sansanding, I was apprehensive that, in attempting to reach
even Jenné (unless under the protection of some man of consequence
amongst them, which I had no means of obtaining), I should sacrifice
my life to no purpose; for my discoveries would perish with me. The
prospect either way was gloomy. In returning to the Gambia, a journey
on foot of many hundred miles, presented itself to my contemplation,
through regions and countries unknown. Nevertheless, this seemed to be
the only alternative; for I saw inevitable destruction in attempting
to proceed to the eastward. With this conviction on my mind, I hope
my readers will acknowledge, that I did right in going no farther. I
had made every effort to execute my mission in its fullest extent,
which prudence could justify. Had there been the most distant prospect
of a successful termination, neither the unavoidable hardships of
the journey, nor the dangers of a second captivity, should have
forced me to desist. This, however, necessity compelled me to do;
and whatever may be the opinion of my general readers on this point,
it affords me inexpressible satisfaction, that my honourable employers
have been pleased, since my return, to express their full approbation
of my conduct.
Having thus brought my mind, after much doubt and perplexity, to
a determination to return westward; I thought it incumbent on me,
before I left Silla, to collect from the Moorish and Negro traders,
all the information I could, concerning the further course of the Niger
eastward; and the situation and extent of the kingdoms in its vicinage;
and the following few notices I received from such various quarters,
as induce me to think they are authentic.
Two short days’ journey to the eastward of Silla, is the town of
Jenné, which is situated on a small island in the river; and is
said to contain a greater number of inhabitants than Sego itself,
or any other town in Bambarra. At the distance of two days more,
the river spreads into a considerable lake, called _Dibbie_ (or the
dark lake), concerning the extent of which, all the information I
could obtain was, that in crossing it, from west to east, the canoes
lose sight of land one whole day. From this lake, the water issues
in many different streams, which terminate in two large branches,
one whereof flows towards the north-east, and the other to the east;
but these branches join at Kabra, which is one day’s journey to the
southward of Tombuctoo, and is the port or shipping-place of that
city. The tract of land which the two streams encircle, is called
Jinbala, and is inhabited by Negroes; and the whole distance, by land,
from Jenné to Tombuctoo, is twelve days’ journey.
From Kabra, at the distance of eleven days’ journey, down the
stream, the river passes to the southward of Houssa, which is two
days’ journey distant from the river. Of the further progress of
this great river, and its final exit, all the natives with whom I
conversed, seem to be entirely ignorant. Their commercial pursuits
seldom induce them to travel further than the cities of Tombuctoo and
Houssa; and as the sole object of those journies is the acquirement
of wealth, they pay but little attention to the course of rivers,
or the geography of countries. It is, however, highly probable that
the Niger affords a safe and easy communication between very remote
nations. All my informants agreed, that many of the Negro merchants who
arrive at Tombuctoo and Houssa, from the eastward, speak a different
language from that of Bambarra, or any other kingdom with which they
are acquainted. But even these merchants, it would seem, are ignorant
of the termination of the river, for such of them as can speak Arabic,
describe the amazing length of its course in very general terms;
saying only, that they believe _it runs to the world’s end_.
The names of many kingdoms to the eastward of Houssa, are familiar
to the inhabitants of Bambarra. I was shewn quivers and arrows of
very curious workmanship, which I was informed came from the kingdom
of Kassina.
On the northern bank of the Niger, at a short distance from Silla,
is the kingdom of Masina, which is inhabited by Foulahs. They employ
themselves there, as in other places, chiefly in pasturage, and
pay an annual tribute to the King of Bambarra, for the lands which
they occupy.
To the north-east of Masina, is situated the kingdom of Tombuctoo,
the great object of European research; the capital of this kingdom
being one of the principal marts for that extensive commerce which the
Moors carry on with the Negroes. The hopes of acquiring wealth in this
pursuit, and zeal for propagating their religion, have filled this
extensive city with Moors and Mahomedan converts; the king himself,
and all the chief officers of state are Moors; and they are said to
be more severe and intolerant in their principles than any other
of the Moorish tribes in this part of Africa. I was informed by a
venerable old Negro, that when he first visited Tombuctoo, he took
up his lodging at a sort of public inn, the landlord of which, when
he conducted him into his hut, spread a mat on the floor, and laid
a rope upon it; saying “if you are a Mussulman, you are my friend,
sit down; but if you are a Kafir, you are my slave; and with this rope,
I will lead you to market.” The present King of Tombuctoo is named
_Abu Abrahima_; he is reported to possess immense riches. His wives
and concubines are said to be clothed in silk, and the chief officers
of state live in considerable splendour. The whole expence of his
government is defrayed, as I was told, by a tax upon merchandize,
which is collected at the gates of the city.
The city of Houssa, (the capital of a large kingdom of the same name,
situated to the eastward of Tombuctoo,) is another great mart for
Moorish commerce. I conversed with many merchants who had visited
that city; and they all agreed that it is larger, and more populous,
than Tombuctoo. The trade, police, and government, are nearly the
same in both; but in Houssa, the Negroes are in greater proportion
to the Moors, and have some share in the government.
Concerning the small kingdom of Jinbala, I was not able to collect much
information. The soil is said to be remarkably fertile, and the whole
country so full of creeks and swamps, that the Moors have hitherto been
baffled in every attempt to subdue it. The inhabitants are Negroes, and
some of them are said to live in considerable affluence, particularly
those near the capital; which is a resting-place for such merchants
as transport goods from Tombuctoo to the western parts of Africa.
To the southward of Jinbala, is situated the Negro kingdom of Gotto,
which is said to be of great extent. It was formerly divided into
a number of petty states, which were governed by their own chiefs;
but their private quarrels invited invasion from the neighbouring
kingdoms. At length a politic chief, of the name of Moossee, had
address enough to make them unite in hostilities against Bambarra;
and on this occasion he was unanimously chosen general; the different
chiefs consenting for a time to act under his command. Moossee
immediately dispatched a fleet of canoes, loaded with provisions, from
the banks of the lake Dibbie up the Niger, towards Jenné, and with
the whole of his army pushed forwards into Bambarra. He arrived on
the bank of the Niger opposite to Jenné, before the townspeople had
the smallest intimation of his approach; his fleet of canoes joined
him the same day, and having landed the provisions, he embarked part
of his army, and in the night took Jenné by storm. This event so
terrified the King of Bambarra, that he sent messengers to sue for
peace, and in order to obtain it, consented to deliver to Moossee a
certain number of slaves every year; and return every thing that had
been taken from the inhabitants of Gotto. Moossee, thus triumphant,
returned to Gotto, where he was declared king, and the capital of
the country is called by his name.
On the west of Gotto, is the kingdom of Baedoo, which was conquered by
the present King of Bambarra about seven years ago, and has continued
tributary to him ever since.
West of Baedoo, is Maniana; the inhabitants of which, according to
the best information I was able to collect, are cruel and ferocious;
carrying their resentment towards their enemies, so far as never
to give quarter; and even to indulge themselves with unnatural and
disgusting banquets of human flesh.
I am well aware that the accounts which the Negroes give of their
enemies, ought to be received with great caution; but I heard the
same account in so many different kingdoms, and from such variety
of people, whose veracity I had no occasion to suspect, that I am
disposed to allow it some degree of credit. The inhabitants of
Bambarra, in the course of a long and bloody war, must have had
frequent opportunities of satisfying themselves as to the fact:
and if the report had been entirely without foundation, I cannot
conceive why the term _Ma dummulo_, (man eaters), should be applied
exclusively to the inhabitants of Maniana.
[Footnote 14: I should have before observed, that I found the language
of Bambarra, a sort of corrupted Mandingo. After a little practice,
I understood, and spoke it without difficulty.]