[174] St. Ouen was born A.D. 600, at the village of Sanci, near

Soissons. He was of a noble family, and was educated in the abbey of St.

Médar, at Soissons, whence he was removed, at an early age, to the court

of Clothair II. At the court, he contracted an intimate friendship with

St. Eloi; and, under Dagobert, became the favorite of the monarch, as

well as his chancellor and minister of state. During the whole of his

life, his strong turn to religion rendered him a warm patron of monastic

establishments; and, among others, he founded the celebrated abbey of

Rebais en Brie. He was still young when he renounced the world, embraced

the ecclesiastical state, and devoted himself to the preaching of the

gospel; shortly after which, at the request of the inhabitants of Rouen,

he was appointed to succeed St. Romain, as their pastor. His

consecration took place in 646, and was performed in the church of the

monastery of St. Peter, since-called St. Ouen. It was also at his own

particular desire, that he was there interred. His name occurs among

those of the prelates who were present at the council of Châlons, in

650; he was likewise entrusted by the king with various important

negociations; and, after an earthly career, passed, according to his

historians, in the practice of every civil and apostolic virtue, he died

at Clichy, near Paris, in the year 689.

[175] The following extract from the _Neustria Pia_, p. 35, bears

witness at once to the merits of the abbot, and the light in which the

building was regarded throughout France.--"Hic Abbatiam reperit bonis

omnibus sufficienter munitam, pecunia et commeatu haud indigentem: quam

et ipse sapienter ac religiosè gubernavit, locupletavit, et vehementer

adauxit; tum possessionibus et redditibus, tum ædificiis ac

reparationibus: Basilicam iliam admirabili structura compositam,

totiusque Galliæ speciosissimam, construere coepit, anno 1318, die festo

S. _Urbani_; quam continuavit ad ann. usque 1339, in festo Apostolorum

SS. _Petri_ et _Pauli_: quo in opere expendit 63036 libras argenti, et

quinque solidos Turonensis: (quæ nunc haud posset compleri ædificio pro

663036 libris, etiam aureis) quorum omnium tesserem vetera hujusce domus

inclytæ monimenta nunc usque accuratè continent. De hujusmodi

celeberrima æde, sic quidam neotericus verè locutus est. _Nunc est S._

Audoeni: _cujus mirabilis structura, hodieque dubium relinquit, si alia

per Galliam splendidior et elegantior: Monasterium est tota quidem

Europa, celeberrimum, sed Patroni sui sanctitate magis æstimandum._ cui

alii adstipulantur. Et hoc, consilio et auxilio D. Caroli, Comitis

_Valesii_: cui operi Carolus Valesius VI. Rex ann. 1380, dono dedit tria

millia librarum ad instantiam Burgundiæ Ducis, sui patruelis."

PLATE LXXVII.

FOUNTAIN OF THE STONE CROSS, AT ROUEN.[176]

[Illustration: Plate 77. FOUNTAIN OF THE STONE CROSS AT ROUEN.]

Rouen has long boasted a pre-eminence over the greater part of the

cities of France, with respect to its public fountains. The chalk hills,

with which it is surrounded, furnish an abundant supply of excellent

springs; and the waters of these, led into different parts of the town,

contribute in no less a degree to the embellishment of the city, than to

the comfort of the inhabitants. The form of some, and the ornaments of

others, are well deserving of attention, notwithstanding the injuries

that have inevitably occurred from time, or the more cruel ones that

have been caused by wanton mutilation. It is upon historical record,

that there were several fountains at Rouen, as early as the twelfth

century, but their number, which now exceeds thirty, received its

principal increase towards the beginning of the sixteenth century; and

it was then also that the idea seems first to have been conceived of

making, what was originally designed only for convenience, subservient

to beauty. For this new supply of ornamental fountains, Rouen is

indebted to its great benefactor, the Cardinal Georges d'Amboise, who,

uniting the Norman archiepiscopal mitre to the office of prime minister,

under Louis XII. was no less able than he was willing, to render the

most essential services to the seat of his spiritual jurisdiction. It

was under the auspices of this archbishop, that the fountain here

figured, one of the earliest of that period, was erected. He caused it

to be built in the year 1500. The spot which it occupies, is the

cross-way formed by the union of the streets, called St. Vivien, St.

Hilaire, and Coqueraumont, a spot which, previously to the reign of St.

Louis, was not included within the walls of the town, and which, even at

the distance of one hundred years after that time, had not begun to be

inhabited.

So ancient is the practice of placing stone crosses at the junction of

roads in the vicinity of cities, that it would be difficult to assign

any probable time for the erection of that which was replaced by the

fountain that still bears its name. The waters of this fountain have

their origin in a spring, which flows at the foot of a hill near the

village of St. Léger, at some distance from Rouen. The execution of the

structure unites a happy mixture of boldness in outline, and delicacy in

details: its pyramidal form is graceful. It consists of three stories,

gradually diminishing in height and diameter as they rise, and

terminating in a cross, whose clumsy shape only renders the destruction

of that which it replaces the more to be regretted. The form is octagon

throughout; and upon every compartment in each of the stories, is

carved, at a short distance from its base, a narrow cinquefoil-headed

arch, surmounted by a triangular crocketed canopy. But the crockets and

finials have been in most instances destroyed. The water issues from

four pipes in the basement. Each of the arches of the lower tier serves

as a tabernacle for a wooden statue of a Madonna, or saint, of wretched

execution, a poor substitute for those that occupied the same niches

previously to the troubles of 1792, at which time the religious

character of the fountain marked it out as an object of popular

vengeance. It was suffered to continue in its mutilated and degraded

state, from that period till the year 1816, when the inhabitants of this

part of the town undertook to restore it at their own expense. Their

labors have hitherto proceeded no farther than filling the niches afresh

with images, and doing such repairs as were absolutely necessary to keep

the whole structure from falling into ruin. Even by this, however, they

have secured themselves the good will of the archbishop, who consecrated

the fountain with great pomp anew, on the 24th of August, 1816.

The resemblance between the _Fountain of the Stone Cross_, at Rouen, and

the monumental crosses erected in England by King Edward I. to

perpetuate the memory of his consort, Eleanor of Castillo, will not fail

to strike the British antiquary. It is more than probable, that the idea

of the former was borrowed from the latter, to which, however, it is

very inferior in point of richness of ornaments, or beauty of

execution.

NOTES:

[176] It is right to observe, that the accounts here given of this and

the following article, are little more than a translation, in the second

instance materially abridged, of what is published upon the same

subjects, in _Jolimont, Monumens de la Normandie_.

PLATE LXXVIII.

PALACE OF JUSTICE, AT ROUEN.

[Illustration: Plate 78. PALACE OF JUSTICE, AT ROUEN.]

The building here figured was, from its foundation, devoted to the

purpose of the administration of justice; and, notwithstanding the many

mutilations to which it has at different times been exposed, it still

remains an interesting, and, in the city of Rouen, almost a unique

specimen of the sumptuous architectural taste of the age in which it was

erected.

Down to as late a period as the year 1499, there existed in Normandy no

stationary court of judicature; but the execution of the laws was

confided to an ambulatory tribunal, established, according to the

chroniclers, by Rollo himself, and known by the name of the _Exchequer_.

The sittings of this Norman exchequer were commonly held twice a year,

in spring and autumn, after the manner of the ancient parliaments of the

French kings; the places of session depending upon the pleasure of the

sovereign, or being determined in general, like the English _Aula

Regia_, by his presence. The inconveniences attendant upon such a mode

of administering justice, became of course the more heavily felt, in

proportion as the country increased in population and civilization.

Accordingly, the states-general of the province, assembled in the last

year of the fifteenth century, under the presidency of the Cardinal

d'Amboise, petitioned Louis XII. who was then upon the throne, to

appoint in the metropolis of the duchy a permanent judicature, in the

same manner as had been previously done in others of the principal

cities of the realm. The king was graciously pleased to accede to their

request; and, by the words of the royal edict, not only was the

exchequer rendered permanent in the good city of Rouen, but permission

was also granted to the members to hold their sittings in the great hall

of the castle, till such time as a suitable place should be prepared for

their reception.

It was on this occasion that the _Palace of Justice_ was built; a piece

of ground was selected for the purpose, that had been known by the name

of the Jews' Close, from the time when Philip-Augustus expelled the

children of Israel from France; and the foundations of the new structure

were laid within a few months after the obtaining of the royal sanction.

The progress, however, of the work, was not commensurate, in point of

rapidity, with the haste with which it was undertaken; even in 1506 the

labors were not brought to a conclusion, though, in that year, the

exchequer was installed by the king in person, with great pomp, in the

new palace. The sitting will long be memorable in the Norman annals, not

only as being the first, but as having been selected by the sovereign,

as an opportunity for bestowing various important favors upon the city

and duchy.

The palace, in its present state, is composed of three distinct

buildings, erected at different times, and forming collectively three

sides of a parallelogram, whose fourth side is merely a wall. The court

thus enclosed is spacious. One of these buildings, the front in the

plate, goes by the name of the _Salle des Procureurs_. Its erection was

six years anterior to that of the right-hand building, more properly

called the _Palace of Justice_; and the object in raising it was,

according to the edict of the bailiff upon the occasion, to serve as an

exchange to the merchants, and put a stop to the impious practice of

assembling, even upon feast-days, in the cathedral, for purposes of

business. At a subsequent time, this hall was added to the Palace of

Justice, and there was then built to it a chapel, now destroyed, in

which mass was regularly celebrated twice a year,--upon the anniversary

of the feast of St. Martin, the day of the meeting of parliament, and

upon Ascension-Day. The service on the first of these days, went by the

name of _la messe rouge_, because the members always attended in their

scarlet robes: on the second, and more important occasion, it was called

_la messe de la fierte_, being performed in commemoration of the

deliverance of the prisoner, by virtue of the privilege of St.

Romain.[177]--The exterior of the _Salle des Procureurs_ is

comparatively simple: the most highly decorated part of it is the

gable, which is flanked by two octangular turrets, ornamented with

crocketed pinnacles and flying buttresses. Within, it consists of a

noble hall, one hundred and sixty French feet in length, and fifty in

width, with a coved roof of timber, plain and bold, and destitute either

of the open tie-beams and arches, or the knot-work and cross-timber that

usually adorn the old English roofs. Below the hall is a prison.

The southern building, erected exclusively for the sittings of the

exchequer, is far more sumptuous in its decorations, both without and

within. The lucarne windows may even vie with those in the house in the

Place de la Pucelle.[178] Those below them find almost exact

counterparts in the _château_ at Fontaine-le-Henri, also figured in this

work.[179] To use the language of the French critics, this front, which

is more than two hundred feet in width, "est decorée de tout ce que

l'architecture de ce temps-là présente de plus délicat et de plus

riche." The oriel or tower of enriched workmanship, which, by projecting

into the court, breaks the uniformity of the elevation, is perhaps the

part that more than any other merits such encomium. But it is only half

the front that has been allowed to continue in its original state: the

other half has been degraded by alterations, or stripped of its

ornaments.--The room in which the parliament formerly met, and which is

now employed for the trial of criminal causes, still remains

comparatively uninjured. Its ceiling of oak, nearly as black as ebony,

divided into numerous compartments, and covered with a profusion of

carving and of gilt ornaments, not only affords a gorgeous example of

the taste of the time, but immediately strikes the stranger as well

suited to the dignity of the purpose to which the apartment was

appropriated. But the open-work bosses of this ceiling are gone, as are

the doors enriched with sculpture, and the ancient chimney, and the

escutcheons charged with sacred devices, and the great painting, by

which, before the revolution, witnesses were made to swear.[180]

The building that fronts the _Salle des Procureurs_, and forms the third

side of the court, was not erected till after the year 1700. Its front

is an imitation of the Ionic order, a style which harmonizes so ill with

the rest of the quadrangle, as to produce an unfavorable effect An

accident which happened to the wood-work of the upper part of this

front, on the 1st of April, 1812, unfortunately involved the destruction

of a painting held in the highest estimation; the representation of

Jupiter hurling his thunderbolts at Vice, executed by Jouvenet, upon the

ceiling of an apartment called _la seconde Chambre des Enquêtes_.

Jouvenet, who commonly passes under the name of the Michelagnolo of

France, was born at Rouen, in 1664; and, in conjunction with Fontenelle

and the great Corneille, forms the triumvirate, of which the city has

most reason to feel proud. The painting in the Palace of Justice was

regarded as one of the happiest efforts of his pencil, and was not the

less remarkable for having been executed with his left hand, after a

paralytic stroke had deprived him of the use of the other.

NOTES:

[177] See p. 51.

[178] See plate 64.

[179] Plate 63.

[180] Upon this subject Mr. Turner is in error: it appears, from his

_Tour in Normandy_, I. p. 193, that he was informed that the painting,

now actually over the judges' bench, is the same by which it was

originally customary to take the oath; but M. Jolimont, who is,

unquestionably, better authority, states the contrary in the following

note:--"Le tableau, sur lequel on faisait jurer les témoins, et qui

avait près de douze pieds d'élévation, consistait en trois portions ou

bandes horizontales réunies dans un grand cadre sculpté à la manière du

temps. La première, et la plus élevée, présentait quatre écussons aux

armes de France, parsemés de fleurs de lis d'or; celle du milieu

offrait, sous cinq arcades en ogives avec fleurons, un Christ entre la

Vierge et saint Jean, et les quatre Evangelistes; au-dessous, un Moyse,

et les tables de la loi: il existait encore au moment de la révolution;

on l'a remplacé, au mois de janvier 1816, par un autre, d'environ quatre

pieds de hauteur, donné (dit l'inscription moderne mise au bas) par

Louis XII à l'Echiquier, lorsqu'il l'établit au palais. Ce second

tableau, recueilli pendant la révolution par les soins de M. Gouel,

graveur, et dont il a bien voulu faire hommage à la Cour royale (voir, à

ce sujet, le Journal de Rouen, du 30 janvier 1816), est composé de deux

parties: l'une renferme un Christ entre saint Jean et la Vierge;

l'autre, en forme de couronnement, présente deux figures à mi-corps,

avec des légendes; mais ces deux parties hétérogènes ne sont que deux

fragmens ajustés ensemble. Le premier, qui représente le Christ, est

évidemment la portion qui remplissait une des cinq arcades du grand

tableau dont nous venons de parler, et l'autre est une partie seulement

du tableau donné par Louis XII, et qui orna, pendant plus de deux

siècles, le manteau de la belle cheminée de la chambre du Conseil que

nous citons ci-après. Les deux figures, aujourd'hui mutilées, étaient en

pied, et représentaient le Roi Louis XII et le Cardinal d'Amboise, avec

ces mots écrits sur des bandelettes, que les deux personnages semblent

s'adresser: _Pontifices, agite: Magistrats, agissez;--et vos Reges,

dicite justa: et vous Rois, soyez justes_. Ces fragmens de deux tableaux

différens, réunis, avec assez d'art, et qui paraissent être seuls

échappés à la destruction, sont encore fort curieux, et l'on doit savoir

gré à M. Gouel de leur conservation, et de la générosité avec laquelle

il les a rendus à leur destination primitive."

PLATE LXXIX.

SOUTH PORCH OF THE CHURCH, AT LOUVIERS.

[Illustration: Plate 79. CHURCH OF LOUVIERS.

_South Porch._]

Louviers is one of the most considerable of the numerous manufacturing

towns which surround Rouen in every direction, depending altogether for

their prosperity upon the state of commerce in the provincial capital.

Its population consists of about seven thousand inhabitants. Its

position is beautiful, in a small island formed by the Eure, which

divides, in the immediate vicinity of the town, into two streams,

flowing through a valley of the most luxuriant fertility, enclosed by

hills covered for the greater part with extensive forests.

The name of Louviers, in Latin _Locoveris_, occurs upon more than one

occasion, in the early Norman chronicles; and the town, though never

fortified, has obtained a considerable degree of historical celebrity.

When Richard Coeur-de-Lion, escaped from his captivity in the east,

hastened to punish the perfidy with which he had been on all sides

assailed during his absence, and Normandy became the theatre of a most

bloody warfare, Louviers had the honor of being selected as the place in

which these differences were composed. The treaty signed upon this

occasion, in 1195, prescribed new bounds to the duchy; and the old

historians, who always delight in consecrating the recital of any

memorable event by a mixture of the marvellous, tell how, at the moment

when the kings were engaged in the conference which led to this treaty,

a serpent of enormous size darted from the foot of the tree beneath

which they were standing, and approached them with marks of great fury,

hissing violently at both, as if in the act to attack them. The

monarchs, who were alone, instantly laid their hands upon their swords;

and the armies, who stood at a short distance on either side arranged in

battle array, alarmed at such hostile demonstrations, had well nigh

joined in a fresh combat.--Only the following year, Louviers was one of

the towns ceded by Richard to Walter, archbishop of Rouen, by way of

compensation for the infringement of the rights of the see, of which he

had been guilty in the erection of Château Gaillard. The possession of

Louviers was peculiarly acceptable to the prelate, as being in the

immediate vicinity of the village of Pinterville, where the archbishops

of Rouen then had their country seat: they continued to occupy the same

till the reign of St. Louis, when that monarch conferred upon them the

castle of Gaillon, which they held till the revolution.

Louviers was taken in 1345, by the English army under King Edward III.

then on his march for Paris, after the battle of Caen; and Froissart, in

relating the circumstance, takes occasion to mention the importance of

the place, stating that the town was then a great one, and "the chief

town of all Normandy for drapery and riches, and full of merchandize.

But, not being closed, the hostile army soon entered it." He goes on to

add, not much to the credit of the invading host, that "they overran,

and spoiled and robbed without mercy; and that they won there great

riches."--In 1360, Louviers was once more chosen as the spot where peace

was signed: the treaty that had been concluded at Bretigny, was

confirmed at Paris by the Regent, and was finally ratified by the Black

Prince in this town.--During the subsequent wars, under Henry V. and VI.

Louviers is repeatedly mentioned; but principally for opposing a

resistance of twenty-six days to the English in 1418.--In the time of

the league, it distinguished itself most unfortunately by its devoted

attachment to the Catholic cause; in consequence of which, it was

pillaged by the royalists shortly after the battle of Ivry.[181]

The church of Louviers is an imposing structure: though materially

injured, and reduced to no more than a nave with its four aisles, it is

still a spacious and handsome building. The great western door is

closed, and the front defaced: the eastern end is likewise altogether

modern. The central tower is handsome, though square and short. Two

windows, very similar to those of the tower of St. Romain, in Rouen

cathedral, light it on either side; and saints, placed under canopies,

ornament the angles behind the buttresses. A second tower, to the west,

is surmounted with a truncated cone. The south porch,[182] here figured,

is the great feature of the exterior; and, for beauty and elegance in

the formation or disposition of its parts, it may safely be put in

competition with any similar portion of an ecclesiastical building,

either in Normandy or in England. Yet, even here, the saints have been

torn from their pedestals by the wanton violence of Calvinists or of

democrats.

Internally, the church is a fine specimen of the pointed architecture of

the thirteenth century;[183] but, to use the words of Mr. Turner, from

whose Tour[184] a great part of the preceding description has been

borrowed, "the whole is so concealed and degraded by ornaments in the

worst of taste, and by painted saints in the most tawdry dresses, that

the effect is disgusting." In the windows of the church there still

remains a considerable quantity of painted glass; and a bas-relief on

the right of the choir is well deserving of attention. It is placed

under a niche, which in all probability was originally filled with a

statue of St. Hubert; as the sculpture pourtrays a well-known legend,

recorded in his history--the miraculous stag with a cross between his

antlers, seen by the hunter-knight.--The foliage at the base of the niche

is executed with particular elegance and skill.

In the town of Louviers is an old house, said to have belonged to the

Knights Templars. Its gable, pierced with numerous windows, generally in

the form of flatly pointed arches, each of them containing a couple of

arches with trefoil-heads, has given currency to the tale of its

original destination. It was figured some time since by M. Langlois, in

a work commenced to illustrate the Antiquities of Normandy, but of which

the first number only appeared; and it has recently been lithographized

by M. Nodier. But, from the style of its architecture, it does not

appear to have been erected anterior to the fourteenth century, however

confidently it is referred by M. Langlois to the twelfth or

thirteenth.

NOTES:

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