And you say, "_Oui, Mademoiselle. C'est bien triste._"

But you don't mean it. You don't feel it. You don't know whether it is

"_triste_" or not. You are not sure that "_triste_" is the word for it.

There are no words for it, because there are no ideas for it. It is a

sorrow that transcends all sorrow that you have ever known. You have a

sort of idea that perhaps, if you can ever feel again, this sight will

be worse to remember than it is to see. You can't believe what you see;

you are stunned, stupefied, as if you yourself had been crushed and

numbed in the same catastrophe. Only now and then a face upturned (a

face that your guide hasn't pointed out to you) surging out of this

incredible welter of faces and forms, smites you with pity, and you feel

as if you had received a lacerating wound in sleep.

Little things strike you, though. Already you are forgetting the faces

of the two little girls and of the young husband and wife holding each

other's hands, and of the four little children who have lost their

father and mother, but you notice the little dog, the yellow-brown

mongrel terrier, that absurd little dog which belongs to all nations and

all countries. He has obtained possession of the warm centre of a pile

of straw and is curled up on it fast asleep. And the Flemish family who

brought him, who carried him in turn for miles rather than leave him to

the Germans, they cannot stretch themselves on the straw because of him.

They have propped themselves up as best they may all round him, and they

cannot sleep, they are too uncomfortable.

More thousands than there is room for in the straw are fed three times a

day in the inner hall, leading out of this dreadful dormitory. All round

the inner hall and on the upper story off the gallery are rooms for

washing and dressing the children and for bandaging sore feet and

attending to the wounded. For there are many wounded among the refugees.

This part of the Palais is also a hospital, with separate wards for men,

for women and children and for special cases.

Late in the evening M. P---- took the whole Corps to see the Palais des

Fetes, and I went again. By night I suppose it is even more "_triste_"

than it was by day. In the darkness the gardens have taken on some

malign mystery and have given it to the multitudes that move there, that

turn in the winding paths among ghostly flowers and bushes, that

approach and recede and approach in the darkness of the lawns. Blurred

by the darkness and diminished to the barest indications of humanity,

their forms are more piteous and forlorn than ever; their faces, thrown

up by the darkness, more awful in their blankness and their pallor. The

scene, drenched in darkness, is unearthly and unintelligible. You cannot

account for it in saying to yourself that these are the refugees, and

everybody knows what a refugee is; that there is War--and everybody

knows what war is--in Belgium; and that these people have been shelled

out of their homes and are here at the Palais des Fetes, because there

is no other place for them, and the kind citizens of Ghent have

undertaken to house and feed them here. That doesn't make it one bit

more credible or bring you nearer to the secret of these forms. You who

are compelled to move with them in the sinister darkness are more than

ever under the spell that forbids you and them to feel. You are deadened

now to the touch of the incarnate.

On the edge of the lawn, near the door of the Palais, some ghostly roses

are growing on a ghostly tree. Your guide, M. P----, pauses to tell you

their names and kind. It seems that they are rare.

Several hundred more refugees have come into the Palais since the

afternoon. They have had to pack them a little closer in the straw.

Eight thousand were fed this evening in the inner hall.

In the crush I get separated from M. P---- and from the Corps. I see

some of them in the distance, the Commandant and Ursula Dearmer and Mrs.

Lambert and M. P----. I do not feel as if I belonged to them any more. I

belong so much to the stunned sleepers in the straw who cannot feel.

Nice Dr. Wilson comes across to me and we go round together, looking at

the sleepers. He says that nothing he has seen of the War has moved him

so much as this sight. He wishes that the Kaiser could be brought here

to see what he has done. And I find myself clenching my hands tight till

it hurts, not to suppress my feelings--for I feel nothing--but because I

am afraid that kind Dr. Wilson is going to talk. At the same time, I

would rather he didn't leave me just yet. There is a sort of comfort and

protection in being with somebody who isn't callous, who can really

feel.

But Dr. Wilson isn't very fluent, and presently he leaves off talking,

too.

Near the door we pass the family with the little yellow-brown dog. All

day the little dog slept in their place. And now that they are trying to

sleep he will not let them. The little dog is wide awake and walking

all over them. And when you think what it must have cost to bring him--

_C'est triste, n'est-ce pas?_

As we left the gardens M. P---- gathered two ghostly roses, the last

left on their tree, and gave one to Mrs. Lambert and one to me. I felt

something rather like a pang then. Heaven knows why, for such a little

thing.

Conference in our mess-room. M. ----, the Belgian Red Cross guide who

goes out with our ambulances, is there. He is very serious and

important. The Commandant calls us to come and hear what he has to say.

It seems it had been arranged that one of our cars should be sent

to-morrow morning to Termonde to bring back refugees. But M. ---- does

not think that car will ever start. He says that the Germans are now

within a few miles of Ghent, and may be expected to occupy it to-morrow

morning, and that instead of going to Termonde to-morrow we had very

much better pack up and retreat to Bruges to-night. There are ten

thousand Germans ready to march into Ghent.

M. ---- is weighed down by the thought of his ten thousand Germans. But

the Commandant is not weighed down a bit. On the contrary, a pleasant

exaltation comes upon him. It comes upon the whole Corps, it comes even

upon me. We refuse to believe in his ten thousand Germans. M. ----

himself cannot swear to them. We refuse to pack up. We refuse to retreat

to Bruges to-night. Time enough for agitation in the morning. We prefer

to go to bed. M. ---- shrugs his shoulders, as much as to say that he

has done his duty and if we are all murdered in our beds it isn't his

fault.

Does M. ---- really believe in the advance of the ten thousand? His face

is inscrutable.

[_Tuesday, 29th._]

No Germans in Ghent. No Germans reported near Ghent.

Madame F. and her daughter smile at the idea of the Germans coming into

Ghent. They will never come, and if they do come they will only take a

little food and go out again. They will never do any harm to Ghent.

Namur and Liege and Brussels, if you like, and Malines, and Louvain, and

Termonde and Antwerp (perhaps); but Ghent--why should they? It is

Antwerp they are making for, not Ghent.

And Madame represents the mind of the average Gantois. It is placid,

incredulous, stolidly at ease, superbly inhospitable to disagreeable

ideas. No Gantois can conceive that what has been done to the citizens

of Termonde would be done to him. _C'est triste_--what has been done to

the citizens of Termonde, but it doesn't shake his belief in the

immunity of Ghent.

Which makes M. ----'s behaviour all the more mysterious. _Why_ did he

try to scare us so? Five theories are tenable:

(1.) M. ---- did honestly believe that ten thousand Germans would come

in the morning and take our ambulance prisoner. That is to say, he

believed what nobody else believed.

(2.) M. ---- was scared himself. He had no desire to be taken quite so

near the firing-line as the English Ambulance seemed likely to take him;

so that the departure of the English Ambulance would not be wholly

disagreeable to M. ----. (This theory is too far-fetched.)

(3.) M. ---- was the agent of the Military Power, commissioned to test

the nerve of the English Ambulance. ("Stood fire, have they? Give 'em a

_real_ scare, and see how they behave.")

(4.) M. ---- is a psychologist and made this little experiment on the

English Ambulance himself.

(5.) He is a humorist and was simply "pulling its leg."

The three last theories are plausible, but all five collapse before the

inscrutability of Monsieur's face.

Germans or no Germans, one ambulance car started at five in the morning

for Quatrecht, somewhere between Ghent and Brussels, to fetch wounded

and refugees. The other went, later, to Zele. I am not very clear as to

who has gone with them, but Mrs. Torrence, Mrs. Lambert, Janet McNeil

and Dr. Haynes and Mr. Riley have been left behind.

It is their third day of inactivity, and three months of it could not

have devastated them more. They have touched the very bottom of suicidal

gloom. Three months hence their state of mind will no doubt appear in

all its absurdity, but at the moment it is too piteous for words. When

you think what they were yesterday and the day before, there is no

language to express the crescendo of their despair. I came upon Mr.

Riley this morning, standing by the window of the mess-room, and

contemplating the facade of the railway station. (It is making a pattern

on our brains.) I tried to soothe him. I said it was hard lines--beastly

hard lines--and told him to cheer up--there'd be heaps for him to do

presently. And he turned from me like a man who has just buried his

first-born.

Janet McNeil is even more heart-rending, sunk in a chair with her hands

stuck into the immense pockets of her overcoat, her flawless and

impassive face tilted forward as her head droops forlornly to her

breast. She is such a child that she can see nothing beyond to-day, and

yesterday and the day before that. She is going back to-morrow. Her

valour and energy are frustrated and she is wounded in her honour. She

is conscious of the rottenness of putting on a khaki tunic, and winding

khaki putties round and round her legs to hang about the Hospital doing

nothing. And she had to sell her motor bicycle in order to come out. Not

that that matters in the least. What matters is that we are here, eating

Belgian food and quartered in a Belgian Military Hospital, and

"swanking" about with Belgian Red Cross brassards (stamped) on our

sleeves, and doing nothing for the Belgians, doing nothing for anybody.

We are not justifying our existence. We are frauds.

I tell the poor child that she cannot possibly feel as big a fraud as I

do; that there was no earthly reason why I should have come, and none

whatever why I should remain.

And then, to my amazement, I learn that I am envied. It's all right for

me. My job is clearly defined, and nobody can take it from me. I haven't

got to wind khaki putties round my legs for nothing.

I should have thought that the child was making jokes at my expense but

for the extreme purity and candour of her gaze. Incredible that there

should exist an abasement profounder than my own. I have hidden my tunic

and breeches in my hold-all. I dare not own to having brought them.

Down in the vestibule I encounter Mrs. Torrence in khaki. Mrs. Torrence

yearning for her wounded. Mrs. Torrence determined to get to her wounded

at any cost. She is not abased or dejected, but exalted, rather. She is

ready to go to the President or to the Military Power itself, and demand

her wounded from them. Her beautiful eyes demand them from Heaven

itself.

I cannot say there are not enough wounded to go round, but I point out

for the fifteenth time that the trouble is there are not enough

ambulance cars to go round.

But it is no use. It does not explain why Heaven should have chosen

Ursula Dearmer and caused shells to bound in her direction, and have

rejected Mrs. Torrence. The Military Power that should have ordered

these things has abandoned us to the caprice of Heaven.

Of course if Mrs. Torrence was a saint she would fold her hands and bow

her superb little head before the decrees of Heaven; but she is only a

mortal woman, born with the genius of succour and trained to the last

point of efficiency; so she rages. The tigress, robbed of her young, is

not more furiously inconsolable than Mrs. Torrence.

It is not Ursula Dearmer's fault. She is innocent of supplanting Mrs.

Torrence. The thing simply happened. More docile than determined,

unhurrying and uneager, and only half-awake, she seems to have rolled

into Car No. 1 with Heaven's impetus behind her. Like the shell at

Alost, it is her luck.

And on the rest of us our futility and frustration weigh like lead. The

good Belgian food has become bitter in our mouths. When we took our

miserable walk through Ghent this morning we felt that _l'Ambulance

Anglaise_ must be a mark for public hatred and derision because of us. I

declare I hardly dare go into the shops with the Red Cross brassard on

my arm. I imagine sardonic raillery in the eyes of every Belgian that I

meet. We do not think the authorities will stand it much longer; they

will fire us out of the _Hopital Militaire_ No. II.

But no, the authorities do not fire us out. Impassive in wisdom and

foreknowledge, they smile benignly on our agitation. They compliment the

English Ambulance on the work it has done already. They convey the

impression that but for the English Ambulance the Belgian Army would be

in a bad way. Mademoiselle F. insists that the Hospital will soon be

overflowing with the wounded from Antwerp and that she can find work

even for me. It is untrue that there are three hundred nurses in the

Hospital. There are only three hundred nurses in all Belgium. They pile

it on so that we are more depressed than ever.

Janet McNeil is convinced that they think we are no good and that they

are just being angels to us because they are sorry for us.

I break it to them very gently that I've volunteered to serve at the

tables at the Palais des Fetes. I feel as if I had sneaked into a

remunerative job while my comrades are starving.

The Commandant is not quite as pleased as I thought he would be to hear

of my engagement at the Palais des Fetes. He says, "It is not your

work." I insist that my work is to do anything I can do; and that if I

cannot dress wounds I can at least hand round bread and pour out coffee

and wash up dishes. It is true that I am Secretary and Reporter and (for

the time being) Treasurer to the Ambulance, and that I carry its funds

in a leather purse belt round my body. Because I am the smallest and

weakest member of the Corps that is the most unlikely place for the

funds to be. It was imprudent, to say the least of it, for the Chaplain

in his khaki, to carry them, as he did, into the firing-line. The belt,

which fitted the Chaplain, hangs about half a yard below my waist and is

extremely uncomfortable, but that is neither here nor there. Keeping the

Corps' accounts only takes two hours and a half, even with Belgian and

English money mixed, and when I've added the same column of figures ten

times up and ten times down, to make certain it's all right (I am no

good at accounts, but I know my weakness and guard against it, giving

the Corps the benefit of every doubt and making good every deficit out

of my private purse). Writing the Day-Book--perhaps half an hour. The

Commandant's correspondence, when he has any, and reporting to the

British Red Cross Society, when there is anything to report, another

half-hour at the outside; and there you have only three and a half hours

employed out of the twenty-four, even if I balanced my accounts every

day, and I don't.

True that _The Daily Chronicle_ promised to take any articles that I

might send them from the front, but I haven't written any. You cannot

write articles for _The Daily Chronicle_ out of nothing; at least I

can't.

The Commandant finally yields to argument and entreaty.

* * * * *

I do not tell him that what I really want to do is to go out with the

Field Ambulance, and get beyond the turn of that road.

I know I haven't the ghost of a chance; I know that if I had--as things

stand at present--not being a surgeon or a trained nurse, I wouldn't

take it, even to get there. And at the same time I know, with a superior

certainty, that this unlikely thing will happen. This sense of certainty

is not at all uncommon, but it is, or seems, unintelligible. You can

only conceive it as a premonition of some unavoidable event. It is as if

something had been looking for you, waiting for you, from all eternity

out here; something that you have been looking for; and, when you are

getting near, it begins calling to you; it draws your heart out to it

all day long. You can give no account of it. All that you know about it

is that it is unique. It has nothing to do with your ordinary

curiosities and interests and loves; nothing to do with the thirst for

experience, or for adventure, or for glory, or for the thrill. You can't

"get" anything out of it. It is something hidden and secret and

supremely urgent. Its urgency, indeed, is so great that if you miss it

you will have missed reality itself.

For me this uncanny anticipation is somehow connected with the turn of

the south-east road. I do not see how I am ever going to get there or

anywhere near there. But I am not uneasy or impatient any more. There is

no hurry. The thing, whatever it is, will be irresistible, and if I

don't go out to find it, it will find me.

* * * * *

Mrs. Torrence has gone, Heaven knows where. She has not been with the

others at the Palais des Fetes. Janet McNeil and Mrs. Lambert have been

working there for five hours, serving meals to the refugees. Ursula

Dearmer with extreme docility has been working all the afternoon with

the nurses.

It looks as if we were beginning to settle down.

Mrs. Torrence has come back. The red German pom-pom has gone from her

cap and she wears the badge of the Belgian Motor Cyclist Corps, black

wings on a white ground. Providence has rehabilitated himself. He has

abased our trained nurse and expert motorist in order to exalt her. He

fairly flung her in the path of the Colonel of (I think) the Belgian

Motor Cyclist Corps at a moment when the Colonel found himself in a

jibbing motor-car without a chauffeur. We gather that the Colonel was

becoming hectic with blasphemy when she appeared and settled the little

difficulty between him and his car. She seems to have followed it up by

driving him then and there straight up to the firing-line to look for

wounded.

End of the adventure--she volunteered her services as chauffeur to the

Colonel and was accepted.

The Commandant has received the news with imperturbable optimism.

As for her, she is appeased. She will realize her valorous dream of "the

greatest possible danger;" and she will get to her wounded.

The others have come back too. They have toiled for five hours among the

refugees.

[_5.30._]

It is my turn now at the Palais des Fetes.

It took ages to get in. The dining-hall is narrower than the

sleeping-hall, but it extends beyond it on one side where there is a

large door opening on the garden. But this door is closed to the public.

You can only reach the dining-hall by going through the straw among the

sleepers. And at this point the Commandant's optimism has broken down.

He won't let you go in through the straw, and the clerk who controls the

entry won't let you go in through the other door. You explain to the

clerk that the English Ambulance being quartered in a Military Hospital,

its rules are inviolable; it is not allowed to expose itself to the

horrors of the straw. The clerk is not interested in the English

Ambulance, he is not impressed by the fact that it has volunteered its

priceless services to the Refugee Committee, and he is contemptuous of

the orders of its Commandant. His business is to see that you go into

the Palais through _his_ door and not through any other door. And when

you tell him that if he will not withdraw his regulations the Ambulance

will be compelled to withdraw its services, he replies with delicious

sarcasm, "_Nous n'avons pas prevu ca_." In the end you are referred to

the Secretary in his bureau. He grasps the situation and is urbanity

itself. Provided with a special permit bearing his sacred signature, you

are admitted by the other door.

Your passage to the _Vestiaire_ takes you through the infants' room and

along the galleries past the wards. The crowd of refugees is so great

that beds have been put up in the galleries. You take off your outer

garments and put on the Belgian Red Cross uniform (you have realized by

this time that your charming white overall and veil are sanitary

precautions).

Coming down the wide wooden stairways you have a full view of the Inner

Hall. This enormous oblong space below the galleries is the heart, the

fervid central _foyer_ of the Palais des Fetes. At either end of it is

an immense auditorium, tier above tier of seats, rising towards the

gallery floors. All down each side of it, standards with triumphal

devices are tilted from the balustrade. Banners hang from the rafters.

And under them, down the whole length of the hall from auditorium to

auditorium, the tables are set out. Bare wooden tables, one after

another, more tables than you can count.

From the door of the sleeping-hall to each auditorium, and from each

auditorium down the line of the tables a gangway is roped off for the

passage of the refugees.

They say there are ten thousand five hundred here to-night. Beyond the

rope-line, along the inner hall, more straw has been laid down to bed

the overflow from the outer hall. They come on in relays to be fed. They

are marshalled first into the seats of each auditorium, where they sit

like the spectators of some monstrous festival and wait for their turn

at the tables.

This, the long procession of people streaming in without haste, in

perfect order and submission, is heart-rending if you like. The

immensity of the crowd no longer overpowers you. The barriers make it a

steady procession, a credible spectacle. You can take it in. It is the

thin end of the wedge in your heart. They come on so slowly that you can

count them as they come. They have sorted themselves out. The fathers

and the mothers are together, they lead their little children by the

hand or push them gently before them. There is no anticipation in their

eyes; no eagerness and no impatience in their bearing. They do not

hustle each other or scramble for their places. It is their silence and

submission that you cannot stand.

For you have a moment of dreadful inactivity after the setting of the

tables for the _premier service_. You have filled your bowls with black

coffee; somebody else has laid the slices of white bread on the bare

tables. You have nothing to do but stand still and see them file in to

the banquet. On the banners and standards from the roof and balustrades

the Lion of Flanders ramps over their heads. And somewhere in the back

of your brain a song sings itself to a tune that something in your brain

wakes up:

_Ils ne vont pas dompter

Le vieux lion de Flandres,

Tant que le lion a des dents,

Tant que le lion peut griffer._

It is the song the Belgian soldiers sang as they marched to battle in

the first week of August. It is only the end of September now.

A Journal of Impressions in Belgium · 第 20 / 99 题