Next day I started at daybreak through a wild, undulating,

partially-cultivated country to visit the two Doric temples of Messenia,

where Mr. Cockerell discovered the celebrated Phigalian marbles. It is

said that these marbles were sent to Malta for sale, of which due notice

was given by advertisement, and a certain day fixed for the auction,

to which commissioners were sent by the British and other Governments.

The sale, however, by some mistake, took place at Athens. The British

agent, not being aware of this, remained at Malta. There was therefore

no person present to bid on the part of the British Government, and

they were knocked down to the Bavarian agent. When this was announced,

the British Government refused to deliver up the marbles, upon the plea

that the sale ought to have taken place at Malta. The matter remained

in abeyance until the Peace of 1814, when the Bavarian sovereign was in

England. Certain negotiations then took place, and the British Government

ultimately agreed to give the marbles up to Bavaria, upon condition

that a complete set of casts was sent to the British Museum. By this

unfortunate affair England lost a valuable prize; and this loss was the

more annoying, because, having already obtained the Elgin marbles, the

Phigalian marbles--which represented an earlier stage of Greek art--would

have rendered the English collection the most complete in the world. I

spent the greater part of the day at Phigalia in measuring and sketching

the temples, which are situated upon a hill commanding a fine view of the

picturesque surrounding country.

I took up my quarters in a Greek house, got supper as soon as possible,

and went to bed, with the customary annoyance of vermin. The country

around was naturally rich and fertile, but left, as usual, almost in

a state of nature. Undulating, with clumps of wood scattered about,

it resembled a good deal the park-like scenery of England. There were

numerous flocks of sheep and goats and a few herds of cattle feeding

upon excellent herbage, guarded here and there by wild, shepherds, armed

with guns and yatagans. The peasantry appeared very poor and ragged,

but, notwithstanding, many of the women had skull-caps made of gold

coins strung together, called mahmoudies, about the size of a sovereign.

This composed their whole wealth; and it is a curious fact that these

head-dresses were respected, and never stolen. The men also, and in some

cases the women, had the girdles round their waists fastened together by

large discs of silver about the size of a small plate. Thus there was a

strange contrast of wealth and poverty exhibited in the same person.

We started early next day, and at noon on the second day reached the

Alpheus, the most considerable river in the Morea, and which flows

through the famous plain of Olympia. The river Alpheus here was 150 to

200 yards broad, but fortunately the waters were low, although we had

some difficulty in crossing without swimming our horses. In the Olympian

plain there were scarcely any remains worth noticing, though numerous

fragments of marble, brick, and pottery are strewed about. We got some

very rough quarters for the night in a village near Olympia, and next

day, passing over a similar kind of country, reached Patras before

sunset, at which we greatly rejoiced, as we were tolerably tired with our

rough journey in the Morea. I succeeded in getting, as I thought, clean,

comfortable quarters in a respectable Greek house. I was shown upstairs

into a large well-furnished room, with apparently a delicious-looking bed

covered with a snow-white counterpane. They gave me an excellent dinner

and some good wine, after which, being very tired, I threw myself on the

outside of the bed for a nap. I slept most soundly for about five or

six hours, and when I awoke it was quite dark; I felt all the torments

of the damned, for I was almost devoured by immense bugs. I jumped out

of the bed in an instant, rubbing my face, which was covered with blood

and bugs, and struck a light, when I found that the bed too was almost

covered with them. I very soon caught some dozens, I may almost say

hundreds; I undressed, and cleared my clothes of them, then dressed

myself, and waited until daylight, being resolved not to trust to a Greek

bed again, but to my own mattress.

I spent the next day at Patras quietly, and then started off on my return

to Athens, taking the circuitous route by Delphos, Livadia, Eubœa,

Negropont, and Marathon. We coasted along the south shore of the Gulf

of Lepanto, passed our old friend the ruined convent near Vostizza,

and dined at the house of a Greek merchant near, who kindly invited and

treated me most hospitably. After dinner, just before I departed, our

worthy host said he would show me a curiosity, and without more ado he

brought out a large tub full of black snakes each about four feet long;

at the word of command all these reptiles leaped out of the tub and

began dancing about the table, at which I got considerably alarmed, when

my host burst out laughing, and said they would do me no harm unless

I irritated them, which of course I had no idea of doing. I therefore

looked quietly on, and in a short time he called to them and they quickly

leaped back into the tub. He said these snakes abounded in the cornfields

which had just been reaped, but they were timorous, and never did any

harm unless provoked; their bite was not dangerous, although for a time

it occasioned a good deal of inflammation. I parted from my worthy host

with many thanks, and then hired a large boat to take myself, servants,

horses, and baggage across the gulf to Scalo, on the opposite side. We

reached the landing-place about sunset, after a four hours’ voyage, and

proceeded to a caravanserai close by for the night. This was a most

wretched place, in the middle of a marsh filled with large frogs and

mosquitoes innumerable; and what with the loud croaking of the frogs,

and the bites of the mosquitoes and bugs, it was impossible to sleep

with any degree of comfort. There was a party of Turks and Albanians at

the caravanserai who suffered as much as we did; being unable to sleep,

they revenged themselves on the kanghè or master of the caravanserai,

and belaboured him with their sticks most unmercifully, and left him

without paying for anything. The poor fellow complained to me bitterly;

but unfortunately I could give him no redress. As soon as it was daylight

we started also; I paid him handsomely, although we had scarcely anything

from him, but lived on our own provisions. He was very grateful, and

hoped to see me again, but I told him that was very improbable.

As we cleared the marsh and got amongst the splendid mountain scenery,

in the midst of which the classic Mount Parnassus reared his majestic

head, towering above the whole, the fine fresh air completely revived

us. We passed Salano, surrounded by olives, and breakfasted under the

trees, much to our comfort. A little before noon on the 26th of May

we reached the village of Kastri, the site of the celebrated Delphos,

situated at the base of Mount Parnassus. Enhanced as it is by classical

recollections, the magnificence of the surrounding scenery it is

impossible to describe; let it suffice to say I shall never forget it. Of

the temple and spring scarcely anything remain, and a good deal must be

left to the imagination. I descended into a small plastered well, said

to be the ancient Castalian spring, which is situated in a cavern at

the base of the mountain; here the oracle was said to have been placed,

and although I was not inspired, nevertheless I could not divest myself

of the sanctity of the place and of the wonderful influence which the

oracle once held over the ancient world. The surrounding scenery, with

Parnassus towering above the clouds, added much to my enthusiasm, which

was increased by the sight of seven or eight fine eagles soaring over

our heads and screaming wildly. I was delighted with the scene, and only

regretted that I had not time to ascend to the summit of Olympus.

After a halt of three or four hours, during which I dined, I started

in high spirits for Livadia, where we halted for the night. This was a

rather large town, with extensive cotton manufactories, seated on the

side of a lofty hill overlooking the Lake Copais and the fertile plain of

Thebes. We got tolerable quarters here, not forgetting the ever present

bugs and mosquitoes. Next day I visited the ancient Orchomenus, the

remains of which are very inconsiderable, consisting of the treasury,

similar to that of Mycene, but elliptical instead of circular; also

of the citadel. I also visited the ancient lion of Chæronæa, which is

tolerably perfect, cut out of the solid rock. Returned to Livadia to

sleep.

On the 28th May I examined the cave of Trophonius. The weather was very

hot, as it was the latter end of the month. I then travelled on until,

passing through the miserable modern town of Thiva, for of the ancient

celebrated Thebes there are no remains worthy of notice, we took a route

to the north-east, and entered a defile, in the centre of which there is

the beautiful tranquil Lake of Copais about four miles long, upon which

some wild swans and ducks were enjoying themselves.

The next day we were off at daybreak, and on our way examined the

kolavothora or outlet at the lower end of Lake Copais, which was a rough,

unfinished tunnel cut through the sandstone rock; by means of this tunnel

the surplus waters of the lake are discharged into the sea, otherwise the

lake would overflow and totally submerge the surrounding plain. This is

a considerable work, but is not carried far enough; if it were the whole

lake would be laid dry, a large quantity of valuable and fertile soil

would be gained, and the surrounding district rendered much more healthy.

From there we proceeded through an arid, stony, undulating country to

Negropont. Upon reaching the shores of the arm of the sea which divides

the island of Negropont from the main, and which is scarcely 200 yards

wide at the narrowest point, although very hot, I stopped to make a

sketch of the beautiful scene; having done this we proceeded across the

bridge which connects the island with the mainland, to the fortified

town of Negropont. The town is surrounded by a strong wall with circular

towers at the angles; these towers mount some heavy guns, particularly

towards the sea front, where there is a casemated battery, incapable,

however, of resisting the broadside of a heavy frigate. This town at the

time of my visit was garrisoned by fierce, bigoted Turks, who had the

utmost contempt for Christians, nevertheless with a certain respect for

Europeans, particularly the English. The chief inhabitants were Greeks,

whom the Turks kept in the most perfect subjection. The interior of

the town consisted of narrow streets with low, mean houses, and a few

mosques, Greek churches, bazaars, cafés, &c. There was very little trade,

although the place is well adapted for it, as the island is rich and

fertile. We got into a Greek house and made ourselves as comfortable as

we could, and one of my Greek servants for greater protection requested

one of my old hats, which I gave him, and of which he was very proud,

although it contrasted strangely with his picturesque Greek costume.

There was nothing to be seen in the town, and as we did not appear to be

welcome guests, the sooner we left the better, so the next day I started

for Marathon, having sent the heavy baggage down to Athens, which I

expected to reach the same evening. This renowned battle-field interested

me exceedingly; it is about two miles wide, and is bounded by the sea on

the east, and the ranges of Mounts Hymettus and Pentelicus on the west.

I fancied in my enthusiasm that I could discover the positions of the

different commanders, their manœuvres, and in fact the whole battle from

beginning to end. I remained there several hours, until near sunset, and

then left with Demetrius at a hand-gallop, expecting to reach Athens in

the course of a couple of hours or so. We had no guide, and thought that

our most direct course lay through the wood on our right, where there

was a convent, which would serve as a halting-place if necessary. Off we

started, and were soon in the wood, which became thicker and thicker as

we advanced; the road, which at the first was only a horse-track, now

became fainter and fainter; and at last we lost it altogether. The sun

had now set, and the short twilight had disappeared. After floundering

about the wood for some time, our horses came to a dead stop, and neither

whip nor spur would make them budge an inch farther, but they backed,

snorting violently, and rearing occasionally so as almost to unseat us.

We could see nothing, it being quite dark, and could not imagine why our

horses had come to such a dead stand; we therefore threw the reins on

their necks and allowed them to have their own way; and most fortunately

we did so, for they had more sense than their masters. When left to

themselves they immediately turned round and went back for some distance,

then turned to the left and commenced a very rapid descent, occasionally

sliding for a considerable distance; sometimes losing their footing, then

slipping and sliding again, so that we could hardly keep our seats. At

last we came to the bottom, cleared the wood, and reached a grass plain.

It was now about midnight; we did not know where we were or where the

convent was; in fact, we were lost, so that there was no alternative but

to picket our horses and lie down on the grass till morning. Although

very tired and hungry we had nothing to eat; we accordingly wrapped

ourselves in our cloaks and lay down and slept until sunrise. When we

woke we found ourselves at the bottom of a perpendicular cliff above 80

feet high; we now saw the cause of our horses’ halt the night before;

we were doing all we could to force them over this precipice, but by a

merciful Providence their instinct saved us. We were sincerely grateful

for our escape, and shuddered to think how narrowly we had missed a

terrible catastrophe. We then looked for our horses, but they were

nowhere to be seen; we at once concluded that they must have been stolen

by robbers, who were said to be numerous in the neighbourhood. After

searching everywhere for about a mile round, we at last observed them

quietly feeding under a hill, and had very little difficulty in catching

and mounting them. We rode to the convent which was close by, and which

for the darkness we could not find the previous night. Here we got a

capital breakfast, and rested, and the good monks having heard our story,

congratulated us on our escape, not only from the precipice but from

the robbers. We dined here also, and rode to Athens in the cool of the

evening, where I took up my old quarters. Before leaving the convent I

went out and took a sketch of Athens, which is about four miles distant,

and the surrounding country. The view is extremely beautiful; in the

front you have Athens, with its Acropolis, rising out of the plain,

backed by the island of Ægina in the midst of the Ægean Sea, and beyond

that by the mountains of the Morea; whilst as a foreground there is Mount

Hymettus, with the convent rising out of the woods, and Pentelicus on the

right. This I think is the best view of Athens.

Being again settled in Athens, I set about finishing my studies of the

antiquities, and taking sketches of the neighbourhood; as the weather was

very hot, being now the middle of June, I started off one morning before

sunrise with Demetrius to take a sketch of the Isthmus of Corinth and the

surrounding scenery, and found an excellent position which commanded the

whole, near a marsh with a small lake in front. I was so absorbed in my

sketch that I did not think of the malaria, which was very fatal in that

place. The sketch occupied about three hours, and although I had taken

some breakfast in the open air, and Demetrius the same, we both felt

very ill and returned to Athens, and sent directly for the doctor, when

I found that I had the malaria fever in the form of an ague. Demetrius

was much worse, and towards night he became delirious, and remained so

for some time. I rallied in three or four days, but remained very weak.

Demetrius was confined to the house for above a fortnight. Although I

could go about, still the fever clung to me more or less, and I could do

very little. At this time, a singular person, a Mr. Scott, a friend of

Lord Byron’s, called upon me and offered every attention; he was a shy,

kind, and well-informed man, living quite shut up by himself, seldom

stirring out till dusk, when he was to be seen galloping round the walls

of Athens quite alone. There were also at Athens, Mr. Hodgetts Foley,

Mr. Beaumont, Mr. Waddington (the late) Dean of Durham, and the Rev. Mr.

Hanbury. The latter was a tall, fine-looking man, of fair complexion,

with long light brown hair hanging over his shoulders, and a long beard,

altogether a very striking figure; he was perpetually thinking of

firearms; so that it might well be said, that instead of being a man of

peace, he was a man of war.

I was now introduced to the Maid of Athens, so celebrated by Lord Byron;

she certainly was a handsome and elegant young woman, about twenty, with

a very pleasing manner and lively and intelligent in conversation. She

had a younger sister, a very agreeable person also, but not so handsome.

They lived with their parents, who made their house a very pleasant

resort for strangers. By this time, the beginning of July, I was a great

deal better, and was recommended to take a sea voyage for change of air.

The above-named gentlemen had hired an Hydriote brig to take a month’s

cruise amongst the islands, and I agreed to join them. We accordingly

started about the end of the first week in July, the weather still very

hot. We left the Piræus in the morning, and as there was very little wind

we were becalmed off Cape Colonna, which forms the eastern promontory of

the Gulf of Athens. Here we cast anchor, lowered a boat, and went on

shore to visit the celebrated temple.

As we landed we were much struck by the appearance of the beautiful ruin,

perched upon the summit of the promontory in solitary grandeur, and

overlooking the surrounding coasts and islands, altogether forming a very

imposing and charming scene.

Whilst in the midst of silent admiration at this beautiful temple, all

of a sudden Hanbury cried out, “There goes an old hawk,” and fired at it

immediately. This dispelled the charm, and we all burst out laughing.

Having finished our exploration, we returned on board our vessel to

dinner. A light breeze soon afterwards sprang up; we lay-to for a short

time off the island of Syra, and the following morning got under way for

Paros, a fine land-locked port, which we reached early in the day, and

landed after breakfast. We then proceeded to explore the quarries from

which the celebrated marble was extracted.

These quarries are situated near the top of a hill, about a mile distant

from the port, with a steep broken road for an approach. The ancients,

instead of opening out a good face, so that the quarries might be

worked to any extent with advantage, excavated caverns in the side of

the hill, and having arrived at the good sound rock, cut it out by

wedges and picks in such masses as they required, so that the inside

of the quarry presented a long gallery from whence the stone had been

taken, worked in a very regular manner in steps one above the other,

without any appearance of waste; in fact, the rock is so solid that when

worked by pick and wedge no blasting is necessary; indeed, if blasting

were adopted, it would entail considerable waste. At the same time, it

appeared to me that if the solid rock was bared from the surface and a

good length of face opened out, the pick-and-wedge system might be worked

to almost any extent, with much greater advantage; and if inclined

planes with railways were made to the port, and a proper embarking jetty,

with cranes, carried out into deep water, so as to enable large vessels

to come alongside at all times to receive their cargoes, this fine marble

might be quarried and exported at a very moderate cost, infinitely below

the price now charged for Carrara marble. As the Parian marble is of a

beautiful white cream-colour, almost free from veins, and of an even,

close texture, the sale would be immense and yield an excellent profit;

and considering the enormous price of fine marble adapted for sculpture,

amounting to one and two guineas and upwards per foot cube, according

to the size of the block and fineness of the quality, it is astonishing

that the value of these quarries has not been recognized before, and that

capital has not been forthcoming to work them. The harbour is spacious,

with ample depth, and well protected against all winds.

The following day we devoted to the examination of the celebrated

stalactite caverns of Antiparos, a small island on the north-west of

Paros, and only separated from it by a narrow strait. We accordingly

went there after breakfast, and being accompanied by a sufficient number

of guides with torches and wax lights, commenced the exploration. We

entered by a lofty arch, and after proceeding some distance came to a

magnificent chamber, from the roof of which depended the most magnificent

stalactites, many of them eight and ten feet long, reflecting the light

of our torches like so many diamonds. From this hall issued several

galleries, some of which had not then been explored; we pursued our way

through all which had been investigated, and returned, after a fatiguing

walk, to the surface. This island, like that of Paros, is composed of

fine, close marble, which might be developed in the same manner with

considerable profit. We next set sail for Naxos; and here the whole

party started in a native open boat to visit some ruins, which turned

out to be not in the least worth seeing. We were first becalmed for

many hours, and on our return were overtaken by a violent storm, and

only escaped, as the entire coast was one wall of almost perpendicular

rock, by one of the sailors accidentally remembering the vicinity of a

small creek, into which the captain, a brave and skilful man, managed to

steer us through the breakers. We ultimately returned to Naxos, after an

absence of thirty-nine hours, by far the greater part of which we passed

without food, as the ruins being only eight miles from Naxos, it was

considered a mere morning’s sail. The day after our return we invited

the English Consul, a Greek, and several of the principal inhabitants to

dinner, and had a jovial party, for the Greeks like good cheer, and are

certainly not water drinkers. The wine of Naxos, of which a considerable

quantity is made, both for home and foreign consumption, is excellent; it

is chiefly white wine, resembling a good deal brown sherry, and if well

made is equally good. Besides wine they export Velança bark, wool, figs,

currants, and other articles.

Having nothing further to see, we set sail from Naxos, with a lively

and lasting recollection of our visit to the _celebrated_ antiquities,

and then steered for Scio, the ancient Chios, passing amongst numerous

islands, many of them very beautiful; some were covered with woods and

verdure to the water’s edge, others consisted of bold barren rocks rising

perpendicularly from the water to a great height, and terminating in

lofty peaks. The scene was ever changing, and we enjoyed views of wood,

water, plain, and mountain, combined in the most charming manner, and of

endless variety.

It was amusing also to see how well the Greek sailors managed our ship.

At this time of the year strong northerly winds prevail during the day,

against which we had to heat. In tacking about and manœuvring the vessel

they showed considerable skill and activity.

Mitylene, where we next arrived, is a poor little place, surrounded by

steep, lofty hills covered with wood almost to their summits. There is

some trade of wine and oil, and wood and bark. I was much amused by a

fight between my man Demetrius and a Turk who insulted him; fortunately

they had neither firearms nor knives, but they used their hands in the

most clumsy manner possible, and after a little time I parted them before

they had done any mischief.

We spent about three days in the island, which is well worthy of a visit

on account of its rich and beautiful scenery, and then returned to Scio,

where our party separated.

I took lodgings, and rested a few days, for I was still very weak, and

liable to attacks occasionally from the malaria fever. I had several

enjoyable rides about this island. A ridge of lofty hills, extending from

north to south, added greatly to the picturesqueness of the scenery. The

soil is extremely rich and fertile, and a large quantity of excellent

wine, besides oil, silk, fruits, grain, wood, &c., is produced. A

great trade is carried on with different parts of the Mediterranean,

particularly Constantinople and Smyrna. Perhaps, with the exception

of Sicily, it is the richest island in the Mediterranean, and has a

great number of wealthy merchants and proprietors. The port, which is

formed by a small creek, defended by two stone piers, contained numerous

vessels, some of considerable size, and bearing the flags of most

European nations. The town was better and more substantially built than

any I had hitherto seen, and there were some good bazaars, rich with the

wares of the East and with European articles. The square in the centre

was surrounded by handsome cafés and houses, and also one or two large

mosques and Greek churches. The island was governed by a Turkish officer

of rank, with a small body of janissaries and cavalry. The following

year, 1821, this island suffered terribly during the Greek revolution,

when the inhabitants attempted to overcome the Turks, who were too strong

for them, and showed them no mercy; many were massacred, and the island

was devastated. Having taken a sketch of the port, and seen everything of

interest, I hired a Greek open boat, and embarked with Demetrius and all

our baggage for Smyrna, where I got tolerably comfortable lodgings in a

Greek house.

Smyrna is situated at the south-eastern extremity of the gulf of that

name, and extends northward along the coast for about a mile and a half.

The shore of the bay in front of the city is lined with a quay-wall,

formed partly of wood and partly of stone, with small wooden jetties

projecting from it at irregular intervals. Between this quay-wall and

the houses is a road, which runs nearly along the whole sea-front. From

this road innumerable narrow, crooked streets lead to the different

parts of the town; many of these are so narrow that two horses can

scarcely go abreast. The buildings for the most part consist of two

and three stories. The bazaars were numerous, extensive, and rich,

filled with all the commodities of the East, such as rick silks, plain

and brocaded, shawls, jewellery, arms, leather articles, and pipes of

all kinds, rough iron and pottery ware, besides tobacco, fruit, and

provisions. All these bazaars were laid out in different sections, with

a particular trade assigned to each, and were kept in tolerable order;

the Jews and Armenians were the bankers, and had their counters or

stalls, with offices behind, where they transacted business to a large

amount. All the Consuls’ houses were in front of the quay, and were

substantial stone buildings of considerable extent, and, with the flags

of the respective nations which they represented, had a very imposing

appearance. In front of the quay were moored at times several hundreds

of vessels of all nations, and the immense number of boats and barges

passing continually between them and the shore, formed a most busy and

lively scene. There were several fine and extensive mosques, which no

Christian was ever permitted to enter; also many Greek churches, with

their gorgeously-bedaubed paintings representing innumerable saints. I

attended the Greek service at different times, but generally came away

anything but satisfied; their strong nasal tone in saying prayers, and

their indifferent music and singing, greatly disappointed me. Towards

the land the city was surrounded by a high wall, and at each gate was a

strong guard. At the south end there was a kind of citadel on a hill, in

which the Governor resided, and about half a mile from the city were the

cemeteries, deeply embosomed in cypress trees. Many of the tombs were

very pretty, of white, well-sculptured marble, with inscriptions from

the Koran engraved upon them, and they were tastefully ornamented with

garlands of flowers.

The exports from Smyrna are various, and its trade with Europe is

very extensive. The articles of export are figs, raisins, silk, oil,

bark, grain, &c.; figs and raisins, however, are the chief, and these

are exported to a vast amount, and certainly they are the finest in

the world. There are two crops, those which are ripe about the end of

July, which are mostly consumed in the country and neighbourhood; they

are most delicious, and extremely wholesome. The second crop is ripe

about the end of September. These are gathered, dipped in water, then

carefully packed in boxes and exported, chiefly to England, France, and

the north of Europe, and by the time of their arrival they are covered

with a rich coating of crystallized sugar, and are fit for use. At the

season of shipping the figs, which I witnessed, the greatest activity

is visible everywhere--the producers selling, the merchants buying,

the packing-case makers splitting the wood and making up the boxes--the

packers carefully stowing the figs--the men loading them into lighters,

by which they are transported to the fast-sailing vessels waiting for

them, which are generally clipper schooners of about 120 to 170 tons--the

Consuls’ offices besieged with numerous applicants for their clearance

papers--the whole combined to form a most active and industrious scene,

not omitting the numberless dinners and social parties at the different

hotels and coffee-houses, which are thronged with natives of all nations.

I walked about and witnessed this busy scene with much delight and

satisfaction. I must not omit the melons, both sweet and water, and

the grapes, which were the most delicious I ever tasted. The finest

raisins are those called sultanas grown at Scala Nova, a small port to

the south-west of Smyrna, which I visited. The grapes from which they

are made are especially delicious. The town is a poor place as regards

the buildings; but, notwithstanding, there is a considerable amount

of wealth. When I was there the town had recently been visited by a

severe attack of plague, and many of the houses were shut up, all the

inmates having died, and, having no heirs, the property belonged to the

Government.

Whilst I was at Smyrna the British Consul was Mr. Werry, a fine old

gentleman of about sixty-five, with considerable vigour and talent, just

the man for the place. All British subjects were under his protection,

amongst whom were a considerable number from the Ionian Islands, who

were the most troublesome and daring vagabonds, committing all Sorts

of crimes, and mixed up with every row in the place; these rows daily

occurred, and bloodshed and murder not unfrequently was the consequence.

Old Werry was the arbiter, and delivered his judgments with great

impartiality and justice. The Turks also were very troublesome, and

frequently attempted acts of great barbarity. Werry, however, was equal

to the occasion, and at such times went direct to the Governor and

claimed an audience; he was at once admitted and seated at the head of

the divan; then he claimed protection for his British subjects; and

whenever the Governor demurred, Werry drew his sword, threw his hat

down on the floor, and threatened him with a British frigate to blow

up the town before his eyes. The Governor would try to pacify him by

offering pipes and coffee, and soothing words, which Werry treated with

contempt, and nothing would do but releasing the prisoners, which was

soon effected. Then Werry strode off in triumph, scarcely condescending

to return the Governor’s salute. The Turks looked upon him as a madman;

but they have always entertained the greatest respect for him, and

allowed him to have his way, invariably calling him the _mad Consul_.

Nevertheless, he was a most kind and worthy man, greatly respected and

liked by his countrymen, the other consuls, and by the whole population.

He received me with the greatest kindness and hospitality. I was a

frequent visitor at his house, both in town and at his country seat,

Bridjar, about nine miles distant to the south-east.

Whilst at Smyrna I made acquaintance with my countryman, Mr. (afterwards

Professor) Donaldson, a M. Parke, and another French architect, who had

just returned to Smyrna after a very successful exploration of some of

the most remarkable ruins of the ancient cities of Asia Minor, and their

portfolios were filled with drawings of these most interesting relics of

antiquity. I passed several happy days in their company, and Donaldson

most kindly made out for me a map by which I might be enabled to visit

these remarkable ruins; I therefore determined to follow it out as

nearly as possible without delay, and took leave of them with many thanks.

On the next day, having obtained the usual firman, I started, in company

with my faithful servant Demetrius, to explore some of the ruins of

Ionia, with a Turkish surgee, or guide, a janissary, and a couple of

baggage horses, leaving my heavy baggage at Smyrna. After passing through

a wild, rich, and almost uncultivated country, we reached Aiasolok, on

the Meander, near the ruins of Ephesus, in the evening, and took up

our quarters in a Turkish caravanserai. Demetrius soon prepared a good

supper, laid our mattresses, and we both slept soundly until the morning.

Every inmate was up transacting his business soon after daybreak, and I

at once sallied forth to examine the ruins of Ephesus. This celebrated

city was situated on the left bank of the Meander, at the base of an

elevated ridge of hills. The only remains which we could distinctly make

out was the amphitheatre, of the rest little could be discovered; but

numerous fragments of columns, cornices, blocks of masonry, pottery,

brickwork, &c., lay scattered about. I made a sketch of the whole from

the best place I could find. The ruins of Ephesus formed the foreground,

with the Meander and its numerous windings and the marshy valley flanked

by the mountains on each side, whilst in the background was the miserable

town of Aiasolok, with its fortress and mosque on a conical hill above

it, backed by a wild range of mountains of considerable elevation, which

completed the view. The scene was most picturesque, replete with solitary

grandeur and desolation. The stillness was something remarkable; nothing

was seen moving, except at rare intervals a long line of camels laden

with merchandise, led by their guide, smoking his pipe, and mounted on

a donkey; or here and there a solitary heron fishing amongst the reeds

of the Meander, and flocks of wild ducks, which took to flight at the

slightest disturbance. It was singular and melancholy to remark the ruins

of the three most celebrated of the Churches of the world before me,

namely, those of the ancient Greeks, Romans, and Christians, dominated

over by the Mahometan mosque. I remained alone lost in contemplating this

solemn and desolate scene for two or three hours, reflecting upon the

vicissitudes and instability of human grandeur, and walked slowly back to

the caravanserai at Aiasolok, where I took my breakfast, and then started

on my journey. We slowly wound our way through the Pass between the

mountains at the back of Aiasolok, and descended into the plain of the

ancient Magnesia, the site of one of the seven Churches, through which

two streams flow sluggishly to the sea, and reached the ruins about a

couple of hours before sunset. I picketed my horse here whilst I examined

the ruins, and sent Demetrius forward with the other horses and baggage

to a village, where I proposed to pass the night, ordering Demetrius to

have supper ready by my arrival.

The principal building is the hippodrome, which was tolerably perfect,

and I took some pains to measure it accurately, which occupied me about

two hours. There was nothing else worthy of remark, although there

were numerous fragments of buildings scattered around. I met a Turkish

Aga, handsomely accoutred and well mounted, attended by a servant, who

watched my movements with considerable attention, and politely accosted

me. Having finished my work, I mounted and galloped off to the place

of my rendezvous as quickly as possible. Passing through the adjacent

forest I observed something like hammocks slung to the trees about 10

or 12 feet from the ground; these, I learned, were the sleeping places

of the shepherds who attended their flocks in the neighbourhood, and as

there were no habitations near, they slept in these hammocks to keep

themselves out of the influence of the malaria, which is very fatal in

these parts.

About sunset I reached my destination, which was situated at the head of

a valley surrounded by lofty mountains. There was a cluster of miserable

mud huts, but no place fit to sleep in, so Demetrius was obliged to take

possession of an open shed, with a bare mud hut adjoining, in which he

placed the baggage, spread my mattress in the shed, and laid out the

table attached to my canteen in the open air in front, upon which he had

got ready a tolerably good supper. This canteen, it should be mentioned,

was a very smart affair; all the utensils were plated on the outside

and gilt on the inside, and, being quite new, had a very stylish and

attractive appearance: it was much finer than I wanted, and had been

sent out from England by my brother. No sooner had I sat down to supper,

than I was surrounded by a considerable number of Kurds, wild-looking

fellows, armed to the teeth, who had come from their own country with

their flocks, for the rich pasture which this country afforded. Their

encampment was close by. They appeared very friendly, and admired my

turn-out with great satisfaction, thinking, no doubt, that it was real

gold and silver. I treated them very courteously, gave them wine, coffee,

and tobacco, for which they appeared very thankful, and we parted, as

I thought, excellent friends. It was a fine summer evening, and soon

after became dark. The Kurds retired with many thanks, and being tired

I lay down for the night on my mattress without taking off my clothes,

whilst Demetrius and the other servants were in front, and the horses

picketed before them, having only their girths slackened, so that we

were ready for a start at any alarm. I examined my pistols, my men did

the same, and we all retired; but I was very restless and feverish, and

could not sleep, although excessively weary. I was continually roused

by the barking of the great mastiffs which were kept by the shepherds

to drive off the wolves and panthers in the vicinity. At last, towards

midnight, I fell fast asleep. I awoke all of a sudden to find two

fierce-looking Kurds by my side, one with a pistol close to my head, the

other flaring a lighted torch in my face, with one hand thrust under my

pillow, to steal my purse and valuables. I sat up directly and secured

my pistols; seeing this, the fellow with the pistol pulled the trigger,

but fortunately it only flashed in the pan. I at once fired. I think

I hit him somewhere, for he uttered a loud cry, and instantly took to

flight with his companion. My men awoke at the noise, jumped up directly,

and fired also. By this time we were surrounded by the Kurds, and had a

hand-to-hand fight for a few minutes, when I called to my men to mount

and gallop off as quickly as possible. I did the same, and off we went

at full speed, leaving the baggage behind. We could do no other, for by

this time the whole tribe was on the alert; they came running to the

help of their companions, and commenced firing at us. Fortunately it was

hardly daylight, and they could not see us clearly. In order to avoid

the shots that whistled past us, we crouched down upon our saddles,

and soon got out of their reach. They did not follow us, either being

deterred by the stout resistance we had made, or being satisfied with

the booty which they had got. To have remained longer would have been

madness, for we should soon have been overpowered, and probably all

murdered, as there were at least thirty or forty of them, and we were

only five. We never pulled bridle until we had made about six or eight

miles; it was then broad daylight, and the sun was just rising above

the horizon; we continued, however, at a smart pace, passing through a

rich and partially cultivated valley, until, about seven o’clock in the

morning, we reached a small town, where the Aga, or Turkish Governor

of the district resided. Here we stopped at the caravanserai, tolerably

tired with our morning’s ride of about seventeen miles, and heartily

thankful for our providential escape. After a good wash, and breakfast,

I sent my janissary, a gallant fellow, to demand an audience of the

Aga, which he granted at midday. I went accordingly, showed my firman,

and then related my story by means of an interpreter. The Aga was a

fine-looking man, about forty, surrounded by his divan and a number of

well-armed Tartars and guards. He listened to my tale with the utmost

gravity and attention, and then burst out into a violent rage at the

indignity which I had suffered, and said that such an insult to an

English gentleman had never occurred before in his district, and he would

lose no time in bringing the offenders to justice. He was most particular

in inquiring as to the place where the offence had occurred, and the

number and description of my assailants, and then ordered a strong body

of well-armed and well-mounted Tartars to the place, with strict orders

to bring them to him immediately; in the meantime he ordered coffee and

pipes to be served, and offered me any money I required. He also asked

me where I was going. I told him that I was going southwards for two or

three days. He then said that upon my return he should be happy to see me

again, when he would have all the culprits in custody for me, and if I

could identify them he would have their heads taken off directly. I took

my leave, with many thanks for his courtesy; to which he replied, with

the greatest civility, that he was too happy to be of any service to an

Englishman. I left soon afterwards, and crossed another mountain ridge,

passing through a wild, desolate country, and descended into a fertile

valley, through which a small river wound its tortuous course. On the

way I examined the ruins of the ancient Priene, seated on a hill on the

right side of the valley. Here I saw considerable remains of some temples

of the Ionic order, besides the relics of numerous other buildings, which

it was very difficult to define. This city was surrounded by a strong

wall of massive masonry, considerable remains of which were visible.

We crossed the river by a ford, and took up our quarters for the night

amongst the ruins of Miletus. There were only a few scattered wretched

hovels in the vicinity, but none of them fit for our accommodation; I

therefore preferred the open air, and determined to bivouac amongst the

ruins; as I had already provided myself and my people with mattresses and

coverlets, and a good supply of provisions, I felt myself comfortable and

independent. I was roused about daybreak by something tugging hard at my

pillow; upon jumping up I descried a large wolf close by, with several

more near him. I immediately laid hold of a stout stick, and dealt him

a heavy blow on the head. This aroused Demetrius and the servants, who

fired several shots at the other wolves, and they all scampered off as

quickly as possible, so that we had no further molestation.

Early in the morning I set about examining the ruins, of which there

were but few; the principal was the theatre, but even of this, except

some massive walls, there was little remaining. I made a sketch, with

the Lake Bofi and the mountains behind it for a background, the whole

forming a very beautiful picture. We then went on to Yirondi, which we

reached about four o’clock in the afternoon, and got comfortable quarters

in the caravanserai. The next morning I proceeded to examine the ruins

of the celebrated Temple of Apollo Didymæus. This is one of the largest

and most magnificent specimens of the Ionic order, and well worthy of

the attention of every traveller who takes an interest in architecture.

I was much pleased with and instructed by it. Of the front columns

several were still standing, and numerous fragmentary blocks of pillars,

entablature, pediment, and substructure lay scattered all around, the

whole being of the most elaborate workmanship. When entire it must have

been a very magnificent work of art, as the remains evidently show.

After finishing my examination, I determined to return to Smyrna as

quickly as possible, having much to do before my tour was completed. I

accordingly started soon after midday, although the weather was very hot,

and the next day I sent my janissary to request an audience of the Aga,

which he granted me at midday. He then said that he had captured all the

Kurds, and ordered them to be brought from the prison. Accordingly the

whole of them, amounting to about thirty in number, were produced, and

marched before me slowly, when the Aga asked me if I could recognize

any of them, in which case he would take care that justice should be

administered. I was pretty well aware what this justice would be, namely,

that their heads would be taken off if I recognized them. I certainly

remembered several of their faces, but having been robbed only of a

few articles, worth about eighty pounds, I did not consider that the

punishment of death could be put in comparison with my loss, although it

is true they would have murdered me if they could. I therefore resolved

to save them, as they had already suffered sufficiently by being confined

in a miserable dungeon with scarcely any food for four days. They were

accordingly discharged, having been, as I understood, pretty well

punished, in addition to their imprisonment, by heavy fines, and perhaps

sundry stripes into the bargain, so that it was not likely that they

would attack an Englishman again. The Tartars had recovered several of my

lost things; for this I made them a handsome acknowledgment, with which

they were much pleased, and gave me many thanks. I also rendered my best

thanks to the Aga, and we parted upon the most amicable terms.

Having returned to Smyrna, I there met my friend Scott, whom I had

previously known at Athens, and we resolved to proceed at once to

Constantinople by land. The first night we reached the modern Magnesia,

a large town situated on a plain, surrounded by rude crenellated walls,

inhabited chiefly by a Turkish population, and containing nothing worthy

of remark. The following morning we proceeded through an open undulating

country, very fertile, but, as usual, only partially cultivated. Here

and there were extensive plains, some only tenanted by shepherds

tending their large flocks of goats, cattle, and sheep, others growing

cotton, maize, corn, beans, and tobacco, occasionally interspersed with

vineyards; the inhabitants looked poor and miserable, and the villages

and towns wore the same appearance.

After a long, hard day’s ride of eighteen hours, we came in sight of

Broussa, the ancient capital of the Turks. The surrounding country was

rich and beautiful, and covered with luxurious gardens, intermixed with

comfortable villas and houses; the city, with its numerous mosques and

towering minarets, lay in the foreground; whilst the magnificent Mount

Olympus, above 7000 feet high, rearing his head above the clouds, formed

a noble background. When within a mile of the city I felt very tired and

thirsty. Just then a countryman approached, and offered us some bunches

of magnificent grapes, which I accepted with much gratification, and

gave him a handsome present. I devoured them voraciously. We reached the

caravanserai at sunset, and as there were a great number of travellers,

we got but poor accommodation. I awoke about three in the morning with

a violent diarrhœa, which continually increased, until I became so

exhausted that I could scarcely move. It turned out to be dysentery, and

my friends considered that it must end fatally. Before leaving England

I had consulted my friend, the late distinguished Dr. James Johnson, as

to what was to be done under similar circumstances, and he recommended

large doses of calomel as the only and best means of cure. I had provided

myself with this, and took it accordingly, with the assistance of which

I rallied considerably, and we then determined to proceed at once to

Mondania, on the shores of the Sea of Marmora, where we should find much

better accommodation. Off, therefore, we went, without being able to see

anything further of the beauties of Broussa. I was much fatigued with

the journey, and immediately after our arrival took to my bed. Here the

dysentery came on more violently than ever. I again had recourse to a

large dose of calomel, and ordered Demetrius to get some chicken broth

as soon as possible. This the good fellow got ready without delay. I

swallowed as much as I could, and then fell back on my mattress perfectly

exhausted. I was delirious for four or five hours; but at the end of

that time I broke out into a violent perspiration; the calomel had done

its work effectually, and I became conscious and tranquil, although very

weak. The disease, however, had been arrested, and I recovered rapidly.

I reached Constantinople at last by sea, and after a day or two of repose

I regained my strength and sallied forth with a janissary to examine

the Moslem capital. I first paid a visit to our ambassador, Mr. Frere.

He received me most kindly, and asked me to dinner the next day. The

entertainment was sumptuous, and I spent a delightful evening. I was

afterwards frequently invited to this most hospitable house, and always

received the same kind attention, ever returning from it both amused and

instructed. Mr. Frere was a very accomplished, unassuming gentleman,

ever ready to protect his countrymen; he discharged his onerous duties

in such a manner as to gain the respect of the Turks (which was very

difficult in those days), as well as that of the _corps diplomatique_

and foreigners of every nation, and the respect and affection of his own

countrymen. I also frequently visited the hospitable house of our worthy

and most excellent Consul, General Cartwright. He was a man above the

common order, and no one was better calculated to deal with the Turks;

frank, open, courageous, honest, and decided, understanding thoroughly

the people he had to deal with, and never flinching from his duties,

firmly upholding his countrymen when right, but no less inflexible in

refusing his support when wrong. He was hospitable and sociable to a

degree, yet withal never neglected the least of his duties, and was

universally respected and beloved.

Constantinople has been often described, and is now so well known that

I need not weary my reader with any detailed description. But as I was

there at a time when the reforms of the Sultan Mahmoud had not long

commenced; when the janissaries were still in existence; when the old

Turkish bigotry, insolence, and fanaticism was at its height; when the

fierce vigour which had formerly carried out its conquests was nearly

extinct, and European ideas and civilization had not yet dawned; when, in

short, the Government was most corrupt, and the whole Turkish population

sunk in indolence and sensuality, a few rough notes of what I then saw

may perhaps not be unacceptable.

Amongst the sights during my short stay was the marriage of one of the

Sultan’s daughters, which was made the occasion of great fêtes, and

amongst others a grand tournament or display of djerid. This consisted

of a number of horsemen extremely well mounted, each armed with a short

blunted dart, which they hurled at one another, and those who received

the greatest number of hits were declared to be losers The game was very

exciting, and the display of horsemanship and the activity and skill of

the riders were worthy of the highest admiration.

There was also another sight equally new and beautiful, the sultan

proceeding in state to the mosque of St. Sophia during the Bairam. It

was a very imposing spectacle, all the actors in it being clothed in the

ancient picturesque costume--long flowing robes of endless variety of

brilliant colours, furs, and turbans of every shape, those worn by the

Sultan and his great officers mounted in gold and silver and studded

with precious stones. The Sultan’s body guard consisted of about one

hundred fine-looking men wearing dresses of the most brilliant colours,

richly ornamented with gold embroidery, and having on their heads

helmets of finely polished brass, surmounted by a crescent of the same

metal, being three to four feet long, on the top of which were fixed

plumes of the finest white ostrich feathers, flowing on all sides. The

Sultan, clothed in a splendid dark sable pelisse, with a green turban

ornamented with the plumes of a bird of paradise, set in a most costly

diamond aigrette, rode in the midst of them, mounted on a magnificent

pure white Arabian charger, covered with housings richly embroidered

with gold. He was a very handsome, stern, dignified-looking man, about

fifty, with sharp, piercing black eyes, moustache, and beard; his nose

short and well developed, and a medium-sized, well-defined mouth; his

whole appearance was very stately, grave, and solemn, expressing majesty,

firmness, and courage. As the procession moved slowly, silently, and

majestically along, through a dense mass of spectators, everyone was

impressed with awe and admiration, and certainly it was one of the most

unique and finest sights of the kind I had ever witnessed. I afterwards

saw a review of several thousand of the Ottoman troops, consisting of

infantry, cavalry, and artillery. These, though inferior in discipline

and mechanical contrivances to European armies, nevertheless expressed a

degree of fierce and enthusiastic courage, mixed with a thorough contempt

of Christians, which inspired them with the confidence that they could

overwhelm all their enemies, and plant the crescent over the cross with

triumphant success.

Constantinople proper was inhabited chiefly by Turks imbued with the

most bigoted hatred and contempt for Christians, and it was attended

with not a little danger to go amongst them. As I walked boldly along I

was frequently saluted by fierce scowls and curses loud and deep, and

sometimes with a small shower of stones, which but for the presence of

the janissary, whom they feared, might have been attended with serious

consequences. These janissaries, a certain number of whom were attached

to every embassy for their protection, were called pig-keepers by their

comrades, who considered them as an inferior class. The streets for the

most part were narrow, crooked, and dirty to a degree; here and there

was a fine stone mansion, inhabited by some Turkish grandee, but this

presented only a dead stone wall to the street. The population of the

city generally looked poor, miserable, and oppressed. I tried to visit

the mosques, but the fanaticism of the Ottomans was so great at that

time that no Christian was permitted to enter, and I was more than once,

when trying to penetrate the outer court of one of them, driven away

by a shower of stones. On the arrival of a fresh ambassador from any

Christian court a special firman, allowing him to visit the mosques, was

issued, when the different strangers in Constantinople at the time were

allowed to accompany him. The ambassador and suite on these occasions

were always accompanied by a strong guard of janissaries, for protection.

It happened that a little time previous to my visit the new Russian

ambassador, Count Stroganoff, arrived, and obtained a special firman to

visit the mosques, when he was accompanied by two or three hundred of

his own countrymen and other strangers, attended by a strong guard of

janissaries. Whilst in one of these edifices, a Frenchman, it is said,

spat upon the pavement; immediately a cry of horror was uttered by the

priests and assistants, the mosque was defiled; the alarm was raised,

which spread like wildfire, and the place was quickly surrounded by a

vast multitude of angry Turks, many of whom rushed into the mosque,

shouting for vengeance on the infidels who had desecrated their temple,

and attacking them with the most savage ferocity. The ambassador and his

followers were obliged to defend themselves and fight for their lives.

The doors were shut, and there they were obliged to remain until the

Government sent another strong body of janissaries to rescue them from

their perilous situation, which they did with the greatest difficulty;

and whilst they were escorted back through the streets, they were

assailed with yells, curses, and missiles of every description; many were

seriously hurt, and they had some difficulty in escaping with their lives.

At Bouyukderé I spent several days at a comfortable Greek hotel, and

was much amused at seeing two or three grave Turks enter the hotel one

evening and engage a private room. For a time everything went on quietly.

Then came a most tremendous noise, and shouts of all kinds; in fact,

they were getting very drunk. Then all was silent, and I imagined they

were senseless; but shortly after, to my great surprise, they sallied

forth and entered their boat apparently quite sober. I afterwards asked

the Greek waiter whether the water they had drunk had rendered them so

noisy. He replied, laughing, “No; they had two bottles of rum apiece.”

He said, farther, that it was their constant practice, especially during

the Ramadan, to go prowling about in search of some quiet place where

they might indulge. Knowing this, some of the proprietors of Greek inns,

after closing the front door, left a private one open, and allowed none

but Turks to enter, not even appearing themselves when they did. The

Turks, seeing the coast clear, would enter, and presently find a room

in which was a table covered with good things, both to eat and drink,

whereupon they helped themselves liberally, and after leaving a handsome

donation on the table, walked out as quietly as they came in, satisfied

with having cheated their religion and satisfied their appetites without

anyone being the wiser.

Constantinople is supplied with water from five reservoirs, situated

on the western base of the Little Balkan Mountains, and communicating

with the city by stone conduits. They were originally built by the

Byzantine emperors, and their preservation was enforced by repeated

imperial edicts, some of which are still preserved in the archives of

Constantinople; a heavy fine was imposed, amounting to a pound of gold

for every ounce of water taken from these reservoirs by any individual

without express permission. The water for Pera is supplied from the

southern reservoirs, near Bagtche, by means of a conduit, upon which are

placed at certain intervals hollow stone columns, called _sous terrasi_,

which rise to the level of the source from which the water is taken; the

water in the conduit rises up these pillars nearly to the same level,

and thus acts as a safety valve, overcoming the friction of the water

in the conduit, forcing it forward to the level required at Pera, and

so relieving the pressure upon the upper surface of the conduit, which

otherwise would be blown up through such a long line, had it not a vent

to relieve the pressure. This ingenious idea was the invention of the

Turks, and was adopted for the purpose of saving the expense of the lofty

stone aqueducts used by the Romans and their successors. Some expedient

of this kind became inevitable, as they had no iron pipes large or strong

enough. In modern times a similar device, called the stand-pipe, is

occasionally employed to relieve the pumping engines; but such is not

necessary along the line of the conduit, because the material of the

conduit is made of cast iron of such dimensions that it is strong enough

to more than amply resist the pressure of the highest column of water

which it may be necessary to employ.

The whole of the sides of the mountains where the reservoirs are placed

used formerly to be covered with dense woods, and when I visited the

reservoirs in October, 1820, nothing could be more beautiful; but after

the massacre of the janissaries, about a year and a half subsequent

to my visit, a remnant took possession of the forest, and committed

intolerable acts of brigandage, until the Ottoman Government, thoroughly

roused, surrounded the entire forest with troops, and destroyed it and

its inmates together. There is also a fine aqueduct, but there can be

very little doubt that proper means are not taken during the rainy season

to preserve and store the water nature then places at their disposal. If

this were done, the serious evil of drought would be avoided; and means

are now being taken to ensure a more constant and better supply. This

scarcity of water, for the same reason, has been felt in London and other

great cities. We shall continue to suffer from these droughts until men

come to understand that only a certain and known quantity of water falls

upon the earth, and that at certain periods; and that it is necessary to

store the surplus waters to supply the deficiency of the dry season. This

great truth is fortunately now beginning to be fully appreciated in the

civilized world, and it is to be hoped that we shall no longer hear the

cry of scarcity of water.

On leaving Constantinople I took passage in a native vessel for

Alexandria. Passing down the Hellespont, at its narrowest point I

remarked the positions selected by Xerxes for erecting his famous double

bridge, or rather two bridges, one taking a north-west and the other a

north-easterly direction. An ancient author, Polyænus, says “that they

connected together a vast number of ships of different kinds--some long

vessels of fifty oars, others three-banked galleys--to the number of

three hundred and sixty, on the side towards the Euxine Sea, and three

hundred and thirteen on that of the Hellespont. The former of these were

placed transversely; but the latter, to diminish the strain upon the

cables, in the direction of the current. When these vessels were firmly

fastened to each other, they were secured on each side by anchors of

great strength--on the upper side, towards the winds which set in from

the Euxine; on the lower side, towards the Ægean Sea, on account of the

south and south-east winds. They left, however, openings in three places

sufficient to afford a passage for the light vessels which might have

occasion to sail into the Euxine or from it. Having done this, they

extended cables from the shore, stretching them upon large capstans of

wood. For this purpose they did not employ a number of separate cables,

but united two of white flax with two of byblos. These were alike in

thickness, and apparently so in goodness; but those of flax were in

proportion much the more solid, weighing not less than a talent to every

cubit. When the passage was thus secured, they sawed out rafters of wood,

making their length equal to the space required for the bridge. These

they laid in order across upon the extended cables, and then bound them

fast together. They next brought unwrought wood, which they placed very

regularly upon the rafters. Over all they threw earth, which they raised

to a proper height, and finished the whole by a fence on each side, that

the horses and other beasts of burthen might not be terrified by looking

down upon the sea.”

This bridge of boats, for such it may be properly called, resembled

materially those constructed by the moderns. The addition of the

suspension cables, which connected both ends of the bridge with the

shore, must have contributed greatly to its strength. The floating

bridges used in modern warfare, however, have this advantage over those

constructed by the ancients (of which that devised by Xerxes was a very

favourable specimen); the boats or pontoons upon which such bridges

are now erected are specially constructed for the purpose, and an army

on the march can carry these pontoons, like other baggage, and when

necessary a bridge can be built in a very short time. When the army

has passed the river the bridge can readily be taken to pieces and the

materials transported elsewhere, to serve the same purpose again. An

enemy pursuing, unless provided with similar appliances for constructing

a bridge, would find his farther progress barred; but in the floating

bridges used by the ancients it was possible for the pursued to erect a

bridge that would be used also by their pursuers. The floating bridge by

which Darius crossed the Bosphorus is said to have been similar to that

contrived by Xerxes, although no precise record exists to enable us to

ascertain exactly how it was fashioned. Alexander adopted a different

course; taking advantage of such vessels as he could obtain on the spot,

by rowing or sailing he crossed the particular river or strait which

opposed his march. We have a remarkable example of a floating bridge on

the river Douro opposite to Oporto, but the bridge erected by Xerxes

seems rather to have resembled that thrown over the Adour.

The only incident that occurred on our voyage to Alexandria was

furnished by a Turkish Aga, one of the passengers, who came on board

in considerable state. His attendants spread his carpet on deck, that

he might attend to his devotions. However, the sea was so rough that

directly he appeared on deck he lost his balance and rolled over and

over, which greatly hurt his dignity. He was very much enraged, and, to

revenge himself, immediately set to work belabouring the unfortunate

captain with his cane, saying that it was entirely his fault for giving

them a foul wind, though all the time it was blowing most favourably,

though rather too fresh for the Aga’s comfort. I burst out laughing,

but soon checking myself, interceded for the poor captain and got him

off, while the Aga retired to his cabin and delivered himself over to

seasickness.

The situation chosen for the city of Alexandria, which Alexander the

Great founded as the emporium of the Mediterranean after the destruction

of Tyre, was peculiarly favourable, for the seven mouths of the Nile

at that time existing were ill adapted for the safe passage of large

vessels; all of them were more or less obstructed by bars, upon which

during the stormy seasons there was a heavy surf, so that it was

extremely dangerous to attempt their navigation. Alexander therefore

resolved to adopt a situation totally independent of the Nile, and

accordingly selected Alexandria, as being the farthest point from the

mouths of that river, and the least affected by the alluvium brought down

by it, and that which is carried along the shore by the western littoral

current.

At the time the present situation was selected there was a small island

not far from the shore. This island he connected with the mainland

by means of an embankment faced with masonry, thus forming a double

harbour, namely, one on the eastern side, which was protected by the

promontory bounding the bay; and one on the western side, protected by a

reef of rocks running in a westerly direction from the original island,

and the projecting point of the bay to the west, so that the western

harbour was tolerably well shielded on all sides, with the exception of

the entrances between the rocks on the north; but through these only a

comparatively small amount of swell can penetrate. It contains space

for all the vessels that are likely to frequent this port, and the

accommodation may be further increased, to almost any extent required,

by making docks inland. It is true that in order to connect this port

with the Nile above the bars and the interior country, a canal or other

means of communication was requisite. A canal at that time was the only

effectual method known, and this was accordingly adopted, and was made

to the Canopic branch of the Nile, skirting along the shores of the Lake

Mareotis for a considerable distance; but it was frequently filled up

by the sand blown in from the desert and the adjacent shores. This sand

was as constantly removed, and the communication between Alexandria

and the Nile more or less imperfectly preserved. In 1851 the Pacha

completed a line of railway between Alexandria and Cairo, and thus got

rid of the uncertainty and expense of maintaining the canal and the

river navigation. This railway was made under the direction of the late

eminent engineer, Mr. Robert Stephenson, and now a perfect and economical

communication is kept up by this means between Alexandria, Cairo, and the

interior.

The eastern harbour of Alexandria, the water being very shallow, is now

scarcely used except for the small coasting vessels; but it does not

appear that in either the eastern or western harbours there is any

material tendency to shoal.

When I was there, Alexandria, although possessing considerable trade,

was but a poor place compared to the present city, and all the business

of shipping, transhipping, and storing of goods was carried on in a very

rude and costly manner, which is now materially changed for the better.

Besides Pompey’s Pillar, the other important relic is Cleopatra’s Needle,

then as now lying prostrate. This needle was given to the British army,

and a large subscription, amounting it is said to about 20,000_l._,

was raised to transport it to England, and there to erect it in some

conspicuous place in the metropolis, as a trophy of the signal success

of the British army. For some reason or other, never properly explained,

this has never been done, although seventy years have elapsed since the

money was subscribed. When I returned from Upper Egypt, in the month

of March, 1821, I found that the English Government, after repeated

applications, had sent the ‘Spry,’ sloop of war, commanded by Captain

Boswell, with my old friend and schoolfellow, Captain Wright, of the

Royal Engineers, to report upon the cost, and the best plan for bringing

Cleopatra’s Needle to England; but this all ended in nothing being done,

although Captain Wright’s report was very favourable, both as to the cost

and feasibility.

On reaching Cairo I had an audience with the celebrated or notorious

pasha, Mehemet Ali. He received me with great dignity and civility, and

said that the English were his best friends, upon which I could not help

saying to myself, Thank God we are not his subjects! He was no doubt a

very remarkable man--cool, determined, able, and courageous. He reduced

the turbulent rulers and Bedouin tribes of Egypt to subjection, and

procured a degree of tranquillity and peace for the oppressed inhabitants

which they had not enjoyed for many generations; and if he plundered

them himself, he would allow no one else to do so. Nevertheless, one

cannot but be horrified at the atrocities with which all this was

accompanied and accomplished. While here I saw a few Mamelukes who had

escaped the massacre of 1809, and who were permitted to reside here. I

was much struck by their martial air, their richly-embroidered costumes,

and superbly mounted pistols and scimitars. As a body they were nearly

exterminated, the survivors being allowed to subsist on the little

property saved from the wreck. Egypt, like Constantinople, has since

been so well described, and is now so well known (though at that time

my journey to the second cataract was deemed extraordinary), that it is

unnecessary for me to go over the same ground.

I hired a khangé, or small boat, manned by a reis, or captain, and eight

rowers, with a tolerably comfortable raised cabin behind, divided into

two parts, in neither of which, however, could I stand upright. But

by this time I had become pretty well accustomed to the usages of the

country, and my limbs being tolerably supple, I did not much mind it. I

engaged the khangé at so much per month, I finding provisions for myself

and servants, the reis agreeing to do the same for himself and his crew.

Having stocked my boat with everything we were likely to require for

four months, I embarked at Bouloe, accompanied by my servant Demetrius

and a janissary. We came to anchor every night near the most convenient

village, and started next morning soon after daybreak. At midday I halted

for an hour, and sometimes more, in order to allow the captain and his

crew to take their dinner comfortably, whilst I and my servants took

ours. When the wind was unfavourable the crew were obliged to row or

track the boat against the current; at such times I used to land and walk

along the bank, gun in hand, exploring the adjacent antiquities or the

surrounding country; and I found that I could easily keep pace with the

boat. Where there was any object particularly worthy of remark, I had

the boat moored as near to the bank as I could, whilst I went ashore,

examined, sketched, and measured the objects in question at my leisure,

and in this way I took measurements of all the edifices of any note.

When there were none, I used to indulge in a sporting excursion, and

found ample amusement. I not only procured many interesting objects of

natural history, but shot numerous wild fowl, that were a very welcome

addition to my table. Thus I passed a very agreeable time. Never idle

for a moment--always employed, either for instruction or amusement; and

my whole time was my own. I carried my house with me; and when there was

nothing interesting on the route, and I had filled my book with sketches,

if my journal was in arrear, I used to remain in the boat posting it up,

whilst we were sailing, tracking, or rowing.

On my way up a sad accident deprived me of the services of my faithful

attendant--I may say friend--Demetrius. We met a boat, having on board

the O’Conor Don, Captain Groding, and another, coming down. They hailed

us, and as they were short of provisions, I gave them a liberal supply,

and invited them to dinner, the two crews regaling themselves and firing

_feux de joie_ at the same time. Suddenly a tremendous explosion,

followed by a loud cry, was heard, and hastening on deck I found poor

Demetrius covered with blood from two deep wounds in the throat and

breast, his pistol having burst in his hand. At first I thought it

would have been fatal, the effusion of blood was so great. I succeeded,

however, in tying up the wounds and stopping the hemorrhage. It was then

a question what should be done with him, as I was not surgeon enough

to cure him, and no advice was to be had. In this emergency my new

friends were so kind as to offer to take him to Cairo, where he could

be properly attended to. I gladly accepted the offer, and supplied him

with a sufficient sum of money, and requested them to place him in charge

of the Consul, with directions to procure the best medical advice, for

which I was of course responsible. Independently of the accident, I was

much grieved to part with him, and was at first greatly at a loss for his

services; but my janissary, an Italian turned Mussulman, and who spoke

Arabic very well, and was not a bad cook, cheerfully consented to do what

he could; and the reis also, a very civil fellow, as well as his crew,

did all in their power to compensate me for the loss of Demetrius, so

that after a short time we managed between us to get along pretty well.

I will only add one more incident, because it seems to show that the

serpents used by serpent-charmers are not always deprived of their fangs,

as is usually supposed, but that there is some real secret which renders

them harmless or powerless. I was measuring the Temple of Edfou, when I

saw a peculiarly venomous serpent come out of its hole, whilst an Arab

boy who stood by fixed his eye steadily upon it the moment he saw it,

the reptile fixing his eyes on the boy. The lad began waving his hands

gently up and down, humming a peculiar tune in a low, monotonous tone.

The serpent seemed to be charmed, and lay perfectly still, listening to

and keeping its eyes attentively on the boy, who, finding that he had

charmed it, was about to secure it; but at this I was so horrified, that

I took up a large stone and killed the reptile. The boy was very angry,

and assailed me with the most vehement gestures and imprecations, at

which I laughed heartily. I afterwards learned that he was the son of a

serpent-charmer, and was collecting these reptiles for his father.

In proceeding along the banks of the Nile, I observed that the land

inclined from the margin of the river to the base of the adjacent hills.

This is nothing more than might have been expected, as it is usual under

all similar circumstances, and is caused by the periodical inundation.

Thus, whenever the river rises above the margin, the current naturally

diminishes in velocity as it encroaches on the banks, and to a certain

extent becomes stagnant, and then deposits the alluvial matter with which

the waters are charged; and as the water spreads farther on both sides

from the main body of the river, it becomes clearer, and contains less

alluvial matter. This is a wise provision of nature, for it enables the

waters to extend a long way, and thus to irrigate a great extent of land.

In order to ensure this irrigation more effectually, it is only necessary

to keep open sufficient channels, which may be done with facility. But

suppose this was not the case; suppose the land farthest off silted

up first, then it would be necessary, for the purpose of irrigation,

to raise the water by artificial means at considerable extra cost, to

irrigate those lands farthest from the river. However, in process of

time, as the land rises both at the sides of the river and the parts more

remote from it where they have attained the utmost level of the floods,

recourse must be had to art to irrigate the lands, otherwise their

fertility and cultivation must cease, as the quantity of rainfall in the

lower valley of the Nile, as it passes through Egypt, is comparatively

trifling; in fact, the fertility of the country depends almost entirely

upon the floods.

It is very probable that these waters might be utilized to a much greater

extent by establishing large reservoirs in the adjacent valleys, which

would be filled during the rising of the floods; and when these latter

have subsided, the stored-up water could be discharged during the dry

seasons for irrigation, navigation, and numerous other purposes.

According to the present system, a vast quantity of water is allowed

to waste, and the means of cultivating a large additional tract of

country, now a desert, is lost. This object might be carried still

farther by improving the channel of the Nile up to the great lakes of

Albert and Victoria Nyanza, for the most part now a marshy, pestiferous

district; this will very probably be done, as the subject becomes better

understood; indeed, it is surprising how little the advantages which

nature offers us in this respect are turned to account.

The delta of the Nile, like other rivers of the same class and magnitude

under similar circumstances, advances outwards into the Mediterranean,

and in proportion as it moves forward, the depth of water increases,

and the width of the delta becomes greater, so that it requires a

larger quantity of alluvium to maintain its progress, which becomes

necessarily slower--that is, as far as concerns the alluvium brought down

by the Nile. But then it must be observed, that as the delta proceeds

outward, the stagnation produced by the protrusion of its apex into the

Mediterranean causes a greater accumulation of alluvial matter to be

deposited on both sides of the apex, and consequently two great bays are

formed, one on either side, although the shores of these bays necessarily

do not advance so rapidly as the centre portion. In proportion as the

several branches of the Nile advance seaward, so their courses become

lengthened, and consequently the total fall or inclination of the current

becomes diminished, so that it cannot keep them all open; and hence, out

of the eight branches or mouths of the Nile which existed in ancient

times, only two now remain--namely, the Damietta and Rosetta mouths, and

these are slowly deteriorating.

Whilst upon this part of the subject, it may be advisable to make a

few remarks about the Suez Canal. This great work consists of an open

cutting or trench from the Bay of Pelusium (Port Said) to the Red Sea

at Suez, a total length of 99 miles, 196 feet wide at top, 72 feet

wide at bottom, and 26 feet deep, with side slopes of 2 to 1. At the

Mediterranean end there is a rise of tide or variation in the surface

of the sea of from 1 foot to 2 feet, and at the Suez end from 2 feet at

neaps to 6 feet at springs.

On the Mediterranean the entrance to the canal is protected by an

artificial harbour composed of two piers carried from the shore. The

western pier is carried out 2400 yards in a straight line, pointing

towards the north, it then inclines slightly to the east for 330 yards,

so that the total length of the west breakwater or pier is 2730 yards, or

8190 feet. The eastern breakwater or pier is carried out from the shore

at a distance of 1530 yards from the commencement of the western pier,

and is extended in a northerly direction 2070 yards, where it terminates

at 760 yards from extremity of the west pier, which constitutes the

entrance. Thus the two piers enclose a space of 500 acres, with a depth

within of 26 feet. This harbour is said to be well protected against the

prevailing or north-west winds.

This outer harbour, called Port Said, is connected with extensive quays

and basins within, from whence the canal proceeds across the isthmus.

At 52 miles from Port Said there is Lake Timsah; also Lake Ismaila and

the Bitter Lakes, at 57 miles from Port Said. These Bitter Lakes cover

a surface of about 100,000 acres, and will always ensure a considerable

draught or current from the Red Sea, to compensate for the large amount

of evaporation which is constantly going on, particularly during the

summer season, and is said to amount to about 250,000,000 cubic feet

daily. In order to supply fresh water to Suez, Ismaila, and Port Said, a

considerable channel has been made from the Nile, at Cairo, to Suez and

Ismaila, and a double line of cast-iron pipes between Ismaila and Port

Said, with pumping engines of the requisite power at the former place.

The entrance to the Suez end of the canal is formed by an extensive

double embankment through the shoal water, increasing gradually from a

width of 72 feet at bottom, to 980 feet, where there is an open tidal

dock, with 26 feet depth at low water.

This is no doubt a very extraordinary performance, rendered remarkable

for the vast amount of capital which has been raised by a single

individual--not an engineer--and the wonderful energy and perseverance

with which he has accomplished it, opposed by innumerable obstacles,

political and financial, which would have daunted and overwhelmed any

person of ordinary physical powers. Although as an engineering work it

is encountered by no unusual difficulties in the execution--being simply

a matter of digging and dredging upon a vast scale--yet it certainly

entitles M. Lesseps and his officers to _the greatest credit_.

Having now generally described the canal, let us consider how far natural

obstacles exist which should cause any doubts as to its being possible

to maintain the canal at such an expense as will enable it to produce

something like a reasonable profit upon the capital expended in making it.

These obstacles may be enumerated as follows:

Firstly. The alluvial matter brought down by the Nile, and that from the

prevailing littoral westerly current in the Mediterranean.

Secondly. The sands driven by the north-westerly winds into Port Said.

Thirdly. The sands driven into Suez by the southerly winds.

Fourthly. The sands driven into the canal from the surrounding deserts by

the kamsin, or south-east winds.

Fifthly. From the great evaporation which will take place, and the

consequent requirement of a corresponding supply of water both from the

Mediterranean and the Red Sea.

Sixthly. Whether the expenses which must necessarily be incurred in

overcoming these obstacles will amount to such a sum as will render the

canal practically useless, that is to say, that it will not be worth the

while of the Company to maintain it.

Before considering these important questions, it will be right to

investigate the natural causes which have formed the Isthmus of Suez.

I think we may conclude that Africa was originally an island, and that

by degrees the waters of the Red Sea, driven in by the southerly winds,

and those of the Mediterranean, driven by the northerly winds, brought

with them a great quantity of alluvial matter; at the junction of these

waters the currents would be destroyed, and the alluvium with which the

waters were charged would be deposited and form a bank or bar, which by

degrees rose above the ordinary level of the sea. This bank, once formed,

would continually increase, not only from the alluvium brought in by the

seas, but also from the sands blown in by the northerly and southerly

winds from the surrounding deserts; and thus, in the process of time, the

present isthmus would be formed. I think that the practical evidence of

this is undoubted. The same operations are still in existence, and it is

simply a question of time as to the increase.

Having discussed the cause of the formation of the isthmus, I will now

proceed to consider the objections or obstacles above mentioned. With

regard to the first, the waters of the Nile are constantly bringing down

alluvial matter, but whether the quantity brought down now is the same as

formerly, or greater or less, is a question which nothing but experience

can decide. But as far as experiments have already been made, it appears

that the accumulation which has already taken place is considerable, and

if it proceeds in the same ratio as hitherto, it must shortly become a

very serious question whether it should be removed or not, and whether it

might not be remunerative to do so.

Secondly. With regard to the sands driven in by the northerly winds;

these must be very considerable, and not being able to escape, they

must accumulate and tend to fill up the harbour; this will necessitate

constant dredging to keep it open.

Thirdly. The sands driven by the tide and the southerly winds into the

Suez end of the canal. These also must be very considerable, as is

already evinced by the great extent of shallow water at the northern

extremity of the Red Sea. This also must be reduced by dredging.

Fourthly. With regard to the quantity of sand which may be expected to be

driven into the other parts of the canal from the surrounding deserts,

during the winter and spring prevailing kamsin, or southeasterly gales.

This quantity has been proved by one year’s experience to be not less

than 310,000 cubic yards, and at times it may possibly be much more. It

is proposed to check this by planting the sides of the canal with trees.

Still a great deal of dredging must be constantly required.

Fifthly. The evaporation from the Bitter Lakes, and parts of the canal

adjacent, is said to be 250,000,000 cubic feet of water, which is

equivalent to about three-quarters of an inch daily. This water will have

to be supplied chiefly from the Red Sea; and as it will have to pass

through such a narrow channel, the velocity of the current will probably

amount to two or three miles per hour, and if the banks of the canal

are not well secured by paving, or similar works, they will be liable

to be seriously affected. The constant indraught of the current will

impede vessels coming from the Mediterranean, whilst it will facilitate

the passage of vessels coming from the Red Sea; and in the same manner

there will be a constant current from the Mediterranean, but by no means

to so great an extent. These currents will also very probably bring

in a considerable quantity of alluvium. They will not, however, very

materially interfere with the passage of steam-vessels, although, if the

latter are permitted to go at full speed, the waves produced by them will

scour away the sides considerably, unless well protected by stone paving,

fagoting, or similar works.

Upon the whole, viewing the difficulties above mentioned, the question

naturally arises, whether they are of such a character as to be

insurmountable; and to this I think we may safely say that they are

not. What has been done once, as has been proved by the completion of

the canal, can be done again, and will be maintained with much less

difficulty. So far, therefore, viewed simply as a work of engineering,

it resolves itself into a question of cost, or in other words, will

the work pay as a commercial speculation, seeing that it has already

cost 20,000,000_l._, and a great deal more is still required before it

can be said to be quite complete, besides a very large sum for annual

maintenance, and what this last item will be it is very difficult to

decide, and nothing but experience can prove; still the more the canal

becomes known, the more in all probability will it be used, and therefore

the more money will be available for keeping it in repair. In addition to

the dredging, it is very probable that the piers, both at Port Said and

Suez, will have to be extended considerably.

The whole of the valley of the Nile, from the head of the delta below

Cairo, is bordered by ridges of sandstone hills a few hundred feet

high, with generally a plain monotonous tableland above, intersected by

numerous ravines; no granite appears until we reach Assouan. In the

vicinity of this place there are numerous quarries of fine granite,

chiefly red; the masses are so compact that blocks of almost any size may

be obtained from near the surface. From this district all the granite for

the obelisks, statues, and columns of the various buildings, temples,

and pyramids on both sides of the valley have been taken. Transported

in flat-bottomed boats and rafts to the places where they were intended

to be used, they were landed by means of inclined planes of wood, with

rollers, and wedges, assisted by numerous rough capstans or windlasses,

worked by countless gangs of men. This work appears to have been done

with considerable skill, and the necessary combined operations were

carried on simultaneously, by means of well-concerted signals. These

operations are very clearly explained by the sculptured figures, and have

been published by Sir Gardner Wilkinson and others.

Whilst examining the granite quarries near Assouan, I observed several

imperfect blocks, which the Egyptians had commenced quarrying, but found

them defective, and ceased working them. The mode of quarrying seems to

have been nearly the same as we employ at the present time, namely, by

wedges, levers, and pickaxes. Even if gunpowder had been known it would

have been of very little use, for it would have in most cases destroyed

the blocks, and the waste would have been enormous.

It does not quite clearly appear of what metal the tools were composed

with which they worked the granite, whether of iron or bronze; if of the

former, it must have been case-hardened. The polishing would be done by

attrition with emery or sharp silicious sand. As for the stone, being

sandstone, it was easily worked, and softer tools only were required.

As soon as I got back to Alexandria my first inquiries were for poor

Demetrius. To my great delight I found him quite recovered, and

overjoyed at seeing me; but he said he had been very ill for six weeks,

and had several times considered himself dying. I immediately set to

work making arrangements for my journey overland to Palestine, when

I was suddenly interrupted by letters from my father, saying that he

was very unwell, and wishing me to come back as soon as possible. I

instantly dismissed Demetrius with a very handsome gratuity, discontinued

my preparations, and, through Mr. Lee, our Consul at Alexandria, hired

a passage to Malta in a merchant vessel. I was, however, laid up for

several days at Cairo with fever, which was not pleasant, as the plague

was then raging. As soon as I was sufficiently recovered I proceeded

to Alexandria, where I found that the merchantman had already sailed.

However, as I have said before, Captain Boswell, with H.M. sloop, the

‘Spry,’ was there, having Captain Wright on board, and the latter having

finished his report on Cleopatra’s Needle, the sloop was about to return

to Malta, and they very kindly offered me a passage. This I gladly

accepted, and on arriving at Malta found that the plague had broken out

on board the merchantman in which I had engaged a passage, and that

several of the crew had died. She was then in quarantine, and before long

everyone on board died of the plague, and I saw the ship burnt. I humbly

thanked an all-merciful Providence for its inscrutable dispositions.

At Malta, though better, I still retained the fever, and consulted Dr.

Groves, the head of the naval medical department. He looked very grave

and said little, but recommended me to go to England as soon as possible,

while he told a friend of mine that he did not think I should recover,

the fever having taken such hold of my constitution. However, by the aid

of bark and port wine I became temporarily myself, and as soon as I was

able I proceeded to pay my visits. I called on the Commander-in-Chief

of the Mediterranean squadron, Sir Graham Moore, who gave me every

assistance in his power, and introduced me to Admiral Woolley, chief of

the dockyard, to whom and his amiable wife I owe my gratitude for their

kind hospitality. They introduced me to Sir Manly Power, the commander of

the military forces, and from him and the various messes of the regiments

composing the garrison I met with the most friendly reception. I here

made the acquaintance of Mr. Strutt, one of the sons of Mr. Strutt, of

Belper, and with him I explored both Malta and Gozo. He shortly after

left for Greece and the East, where he died of malaria, which I much

regretted, as he was a remarkably fine, intelligent, and spirited young

man.

While I was here His Majesty George IV.’s birthday was celebrated with

the greatest _éclat_. At twelve o’clock the entire garrison was reviewed

by Sir Manly Power, with the usual salutes from the forts and ships

of war. At sunset all the guns on the works were fired. This was a

magnificent sight, and, that I might see it properly, I was invited to

dine at the artillery mess at St. Elmo, from whence the first gun was

fired; this was taken up by fort after fort until the entire fortress

seemed in a blaze, and the whole was terminated by a magnificent bouquet

of rockets.

I embarked for Naples on board a cutter commanded by Mr. Thurtle, one

of the oldest midshipmen in the navy. He was a very peculiar and rather

eccentric character, rough and sarcastic in manner, an excellent sailor,

and a kind-hearted man. His long service and great experience rendered

him well known throughout the navy, and his wit and good-humour made

him a favourite wherever he went; in fact, he was a privileged person

throughout the fleet, and enabled to assume a character which few

officers of far higher rank thought of attempting. Unfortunately he was

the brother of that daring and dissipated criminal who shortly afterwards

murdered his companion, Welsh, at Elstree, for which he was hanged at

the Old Bailey. This was a sad blow to the poor midshipman, and one from

which I afterwards heard that he never recovered. My voyage with him was

most agreeable. He was very kind and attentive, full of fun and humour,

yet never for a moment neglecting his duties, and he kept his crew and

ship in the most perfect order.

On landing at Naples I got apartments in the Gran Bretagna (then, and

I believe now, the principal hotel), with more ease than usual, in

consequence of the rapid advance of an Austrian army, thirty thousand

strong, commanded by General Baron Pirmont, at the request of the King of

Naples. I saw them enter, and very fine troops they were, especially the

Tyrolese yagers. Later on, when I wished to make an excursion to Pæstum,

I obtained, through the kindness of the colonel of the regiment, two

Tyrolese corporals as escort. They sat, rifle in hand, on the box of my

carriage, and mounted guard while I sketched. We saw several ill-looking

fellows, armed, prowling about, but none dared venture within reach of

the rifles. Letters from my father reached me here, saying that he was

a good deal better, and that there was no necessity for my hurrying;

I therefore, while still hastening home, thought I might allow myself

a few days on the road to visit those objects of interest which I had

previously omitted.

While at Naples I also examined an open pier, of which there are numerous

specimens about the bay. This pier is constructed in a peculiar manner

of pozzolana mixed up with irregular-shaped pieces of brick, marble, and

tufa, or volcanic stone. The piers were formed by enclosing the space in

a wooden dam or box, then filling it with the materials above mentioned,

which after a short time set under water, and became a solid mass; the

cofferdam was then removed and the pier left standing; then another was

constructed in the same manner, until the required number were completed;

upon these piers arches were built, and upon the top of them a roadway

and parapet were constructed. The piers were about the same thickness, or

rather greater, than the span of the arches. The object of the openings

and piers was to provide a barrier which should be just sufficient to

break the swell, but not large enough to obstruct the current, as the

latter prevented any sediment from accumulating on either side of the

pier. This is a very ingenious and novel mode of constructing piers,

and it is strange that a like method has not been adopted in England,

where the vast quantity of alluvial matter carried by the currents along

our coasts accumulates round solid piers, and frequently fills up the

harbours, rendering them almost useless, unless the accumulated matter be

removed by dredging at continual expense.

Whilst breakfasting at the hotel at Pozzoli I felt an attack of my old

enemy, the malaria fever, coming on; I therefore got back to Naples as

soon as possible, and was obliged to go to bed, and there I remained

for several days perfectly helpless. Thinking it would leave me, I did

not send for medical advice. However, finding myself gradually getting

worse, I was recommended to send for Dr. Roskilly, formerly an army

surgeon, who had now established himself at Naples as a physician, and

from his well-known skill and courteous manners had obtained considerable

practice, particularly amongst the English. He came, and I found him

such as described; he examined me carefully, and, after a considerable

time of grave consideration, he said that I was in a very bad way, that

the fever had got such a strong hold of me that it was continually

undermining my constitution, and that, if not speedily arrested, he

could not answer for the consequences; indeed, I might not live to see

England. The worthy doctor, with whom I was much pleased, then left,

and promised to return the next day at the same time, which he did. He

then said that he had given my case his utmost consideration, and he was

more than ever convinced that some decisive measure was necessary. My

constitution was still good, and strong enough for the measure he would

propose; and if I would submit to him, he felt confident that he could

carry me through. He explained his remedy, which was nothing more or less

than that I should take blue pill, as much as I was able; this, he said,

would thoroughly eradicate the fever. I accordingly consented, as my case

was desperate. It succeeded completely after about a fortnight’s trial.

I felt very weak, but I was entirely a different man. I soon began to

recover strength and appetite, and in about another week I was enabled

to go out, and became myself again. No doubt the remedy was severe, but

I must in justice to the able doctor say that he perfectly cured me; for

although in after life I was frequently exposed to malaria influence in

the fens of Lincolnshire, Walcheren, the worst parts of Holland, Tunis,

and elsewhere, I never had an attack of the malaria fever.

On my way northwards I stopped two days at Mola di Gaeta, where the

Apennines approach the sea, and where are numerous traces of the villas

of the old Roman aristocracy; it was well I did so, for the brigands had

mustered in great strength in the adjoining mountains, and committed many

atrocities; amongst other things, they had just carried off a number

of pupils from a neighbouring school. The Austrians, who were there in

great force, at the request of the local authorities came to the rescue.

A very strong patrol of cavalry kept the main roads, while a still more

numerous body of Tyrolese swept the valleys and penetrated the recesses

of the mountains. The brigands at first defied their pursuers, but

finding themselves hard pressed, they killed their unfortunate prisoners.

On hearing this the Austrians attacked at once, and having slain a great

number, made the rest prisoners. I saw about thirty chained together,

who, I believe, were all shot the next day. The road being now clear, I

resumed my journey.

At Florence I carefully examined and measured the celebrated bridge

of the Most Holy Trinity, by Ammanati, across the Arno, near the

Gran Bretagna. This beautiful structure, a masterpiece in the art of

bridge-building, consists of three arches; the arches may be termed

semi-elliptic, slightly pointed at the crown; perhaps they might be more

appropriately termed Gothi-elliptic. The slight pointing at the crown

may have been done to allow for sinking, which did not take place to the

extent calculated upon. Each of the arches is surrounded with a moulded

archivolt of equal thickness throughout, with an ornamented scroll or

shield in the centre of the spandril walls supporting the roadway, which

is bounded by a solid panelled bridge. The piers are terminated by acute

angular buttresses carved up to the top, and panelled also. The whole

is built of marble, and is certainly one of the lightest, most elegant,

and most scientific structures of the kind in existence. Some doubts as

to its stability have existed at various times; nevertheless, it still

exists without a flaw, and as a model to engineers and architects.

I visited the magnificent picture gallery of the Palazzo Pitti, replete

with choice specimens of the great Italian masters. The palace itself

is a fine example of the simple, massive, rusticated style, devoid of

ornament. The effect is imposing, and shows what may be done by bold,

well-defined masses, without resorting to that exuberant over-ornamented

style, intermixed with all sorts of coloured marble, so much the fashion

of the present day, particularly in England, where the climate is

peculiarly unsuited for it; in any case it can only be termed a vitiated

taste. If the building is well designed and properly grouped in effective

masses, so as to give well-defined portions of light and shade, there can

be no need of extraneous ornaments, as they only detract from the general

effect; and where a building is not well designed no ornament can render

it effective.

The port of Leghorn consisted of several solid stone piers, which did not

appear to be laid out in the most scientific manner, and considerable

improvements were in contemplation when I saw it. The great difficulty

it has to contend with is the quantity of alluvial matter brought down

by the Arno, which spreads along the coast for some distance both to

the north and south. This might be obviated by judiciously adopting the

principle of open piers, as invented by the Romans, so as to allow the

littoral current full scope; this would sweep away the alluvium as fast

as it was deposited, and the requisite protection from westerly winds

might be easily obtained if the works were constructed on a proper system.

Passing by Carrara, I was much struck by the waste consequent on the

clumsy method of working the quarries, and of transporting and loading

the blocks. It occurred to me at the time how easy it would be to

construct an iron tramway from the quarries to the shore, with a suitable

pier furnished with powerful derricks at its termination, and this,

with proper machinery for quarrying, all of which would have cost but

little, would materially reduce the price of the marble, and consequently

increase the demand.

As I passed the magnificent and well-protected Gulf of Spezzia, I

thought, “What a splendid site for a naval arsenal!” This idea has

now been at least partially carried into effect, and if the works are

properly designed and executed, it ought to be one of the finest in

Europe.

The morning after my arrival at Genoa I arose early, quite refreshed, and

went first to the harbour, which I had always heard was one of the finest

works of the kind in the world, and as such my excellent father expected

that I should give him a complete account of it. I therefore examined it

very minutely, and took great pains in tracing, sketching, and measuring

it, when I could do so without being observed, for there was a good

deal of jealousy about it. At first sight I was very much struck by the

extent and magnificence of the bay, with the fine old town rising like

a vast amphitheatre of palaces round it, surrounded by a huge circle of

forts which crowned the summits of the hills; and by the great extent and

massiveness of the two outer moles, the depth of water enclosed within

them being capable of receiving at all times the largest vessels of war.

But when I began to examine more narrowly I found that there, was a great

error in the design of the main or outer moles. The southern, which was

the longest, consisted of two arms, the outer one inclining inward at

a considerable angle, whilst the northern mole consisted of a single

straight line projecting from the shore in a south-south-west direction,

so that the entrance pointed south-south-west, and was consequently

exposed to the full effect of the severe gales which blow up the Gulf of

Lyons during the winter and autumn months; the consequence is that during

severe gales from this quarter a heavy swell sets into the entrance and

produces such a strong current throughout the interior of the harbour

that vessels in front of the town and under the southern mole can

scarcely ride with safety at their moorings. This is a serious defect,

and it might be easily remedied, although up to the present I have not

heard that anything has been done. In the construction of the works

there was nothing particular to find fault with, but there was a serious

error committed in the disposal of the sewage; the whole of this was

discharged into the harbour, so that in hot weather a most disagreeable

effluvia arose in front of the lower part of the town; moreover, it

caused the accumulation of a considerable quantity of alluvial matter.

This had to be removed by constant dredging, in which convict labour was

employed. The alluvium was emptied into lighters and sent out to sea to

be discharged. The old arsenal was situated at the south-east corner of

the inner harbour; it was quite unequal to the requirements of modern

times.

While I was at Genoa an accident occurred by which my old acquaintance

the sloop ‘Spry’ was nearly lost. Captain Boswell, having served his

time, had been succeeded by another captain, who, contrary to strict

rule, had his wife on board. The evening on which the captain had given

orders to prepare for sailing there happened to be a grand ball in the

town, and the lady persuaded her husband to take her, and defer sailing

to the morrow. By this time the ‘Spry’ had left the harbour, and lay at

single anchor outside the north mole. During the night a strong gale

sprung up from the south. As the ship could not regain her old position

the officer in command let go two more anchors, but two cables having

parted she dragged her third anchor, and was driven close to the rocks.

No assistance could be given from the shore, and, as her position seemed

hopeless, the officers and crew took to their boats, and managed to

get off in safety. To the astonishment of everybody, however, the last

cable held, and the recoil of the waves, so close was she to the rocks,

actually prevented her from striking, and so she remained until the gale

abated, and the ship was saved. The odd part of it was, that when the

crew were about leaving the ship my old friend Dr. Biggar was asleep

in the cabin, and when aroused flew into a violent rage, and threw a

bootjack at the head of the midshipman who woke him. After several

ineffectual attempts, the midshipman was obliged to leave him, and he

turned round and slept soundly till the morning. Judge of his surprise

when he awoke and found what had happened during the night!

After passing rapidly through France, I embarked from Boulogne, September

23, 1821, in a small packet, during a very strong gale, with about fifty

other passengers.

The following day we started with the morning’s tide with about seventy

passengers, of whom Colonel Hylton Jolliffe, a friend of my father’s,

was one. We left Boulogne about eleven, and reached Dover at 2 P.M.;

I directly started by coach for London, and reached my father’s, 27,

Stamford Street, the same night. I found him in very bad health, lying

upon the sofa in the principal front bedroom; he was glad to see me.

He continued in the same weak state, although in perfect possession of

all his great faculties, dictated to me several letters on business, and

talked of sundry new works that he was about to undertake, particularly

the new London Bridge, and the removal of the old one, which had been

for some time under discussion in Parliament; a Bill for this purpose

had actually been introduced during the past session, and my father

had been requested to prepare a design for it, which he did, and it

was very similar to that since executed by myself. My father’s bodily

health appeared to decline gradually; he was confined almost to the sofa,

and could do little more than walk across the room; in this manner he

continued until the 3rd of October. He went to bed as usual, perfectly

sensible and composed, and hoped that he would soon be better, as he

was most anxious to return to business and make up for lost time. I

went to his room on the morning of the 4th of October, and found that

a considerable change for the worse had taken place; he seemed to

be in much pain, and was walking about the room, evidently scarcely

knowing what he was about. I got him into bed, and immediately sent for

his physician, Dr. Ainslie, who had known him all his life, but he was

unfortunately out of town. The apothecary, Mr. Welbank, came, and we

consulted together as to whom we should send for, and ultimately summoned

Dr. Roberts, who, although in good practice, had never seen my father,

and consequently knew nothing of his constitution or complaints. He did

the best he could, but evidently thought the case was very serious. My

father lay in bed all day, almost unconscious, although I thought he knew

me. I remained with him nearly the whole day, and about five o’clock in

the afternoon he appeared to be sinking fast, and breathed very heavily,

which alarmed us all excessively. In a short time this ceased, his

features began gradually to relax, and he breathed his last at half-past

five on the afternoon of the 4th of October, 1821, in the sixty-first

year of his age.

The disease which killed my poor father was that of the kidneys and

liver, as far as we could ascertain. All my brothers and sisters were

assembled round his deathbed. It was a sad, sad sight, and afflicted us

most severely; we had, however, the melancholy satisfaction of having

done all in our power, though of no avail, to arrest the fatal event.

He was universally known and respected; the news of his death spread

immediately throughout the town, the public papers were filled with

leading articles giving accounts of his public and private life, and

everybody deplored his loss. One of the most powerful and touching

articles was written by his talented friend Perry, the proprietor of the

‘Morning Chronicle,’ who was then at Brighton in bad health, and died

there three months afterwards.

It seemed to be the universal wish that he who had rendered so many

services to his country and was so generally beloved, should be buried

in St. Paul’s, and arrangements were made accordingly. The funeral took

place a few days afterwards, at eleven o’clock, and he was attended to

his last resting-place by a vast concourse of literary, scientific, and

private friends. The late talented John Wilson Croker, Esq., then First

Secretary of the Admiralty, wrote the epitaph, which was composed in the

most feeling and scholar-like manner for which that able gentleman was so

particularly well qualified.

[1] Let me here relate an anecdote of the almost incredible

instinct of the dog. Passing by the palace of the Austrian

viceroy, I observed a dog sitting with an air of profound

melancholy before one of the sentry-boxes. Colonel Brown,

our representative, who was then with me, said that this dog

formerly belonged to a soldier of the body-guard of Eugène

Beauharnois, the viceroy, and accompanied his master to Moscow.

The man never returned, but upwards of two years afterwards the

dog did, and resumed his station before his former master’s

sentry-box. After a time the dog came to be talked about,

and at length the viceroy, an Austrian archduke, had him

brought into the palace and tried to domesticate him, but he

always returned to the sentry-box, where he lay motionless,

and at times moaning. Seeing this, the archduke ordered him

daily rations, and he was placed in the sentry’s orders for

protection, and in this state I saw him; but a short time after

the dog died, apparently inconsolable.