CHAPTER II.

Travels in Switzerland, Italy, Greece, Asia Minor,

Constantinople, and Egypt--Return to England--Death of Mr.

Rennie.

I had now received a tolerably good education, both theoretical and

practical, as a civil engineer; but before entering fully into practice

on my own account, my father thought it advisable that I should travel

for a time to study what had been done in ancient and modern times both

in architecture and engineering. I accordingly left England on the 7th

of June, 1819, in company with my cousin, Colonel, now General, Sir J.

Aitchison, and the late Lord Hotham, his friend. We had a thirty-three

hours’ passage from Brighton to Dieppe, during which time, having

exhausted the captain’s store of bread and cheese, not very abundant, we

were glad to fall back on a dozen mackerel, which Lord Hotham’s servant

was fortunate enough to catch. We passed through France without much

incident; but when the view from the summit of the Jura suddenly burst

upon us, the magnificent scene made a most lasting impression upon my

memory. The valley of the Rhone, the Lake of Geneva, backed by Mont Blanc

and its splendid range of mountains, rose before us as if by magic; we

were totally unprepared for it, could scarcely believe our senses, and

stood enraptured for nearly half an hour. We then descended to Geneva,

where we passed several days very agreeably, examining what was then the

picturesque old town, with its clumsy, old-fashioned waterworks; for the

improvement of these my father, through the well-known Dr. Marcet, had

just made a design for the municipality, which was much approved of, and

which I understand has since been partially carried into effect. I here

made the acquaintance of General Dufour, so well known for his scientific

acquirements, and after a few days went on an expedition to Chamounix,

where, as no one then thought of ascending Mont Blanc, we climbed the

Montanvert and the Mer de Glace, where I made some experiments with

Leslie’s hygrometer. Having returned to Geneva, we started again on

the 7th July for a more extended tour in the mountains, going by the

lakes of Morat and Bienne, the scene of the great battle of 1476. I

examined these two lakes, which were evidently rapidly filling up, but

by lowering the outfalls a great part of the whole might be recovered,

whereas at present the borders are to a great extent covered with reeds,

and the marshes exhale unwholesome effluvia. After passing through

Freibourg, where the bridge, then newly opened, was considered one of

the wonders of Switzerland, and which, as a most remarkable work of its

kind, I examined attentively, we passed on to Berne, and going through

the mountains, returned to Geneva. On our way, being at Meyringen, and

short of ready cash, we proposed either to return direct to Geneva, or

to change one of Herries’ circular notes; but on offering one of these

notes to the landlord, he at once said there was no occasion for it, as

we were Englishmen, and that was enough. Having produced a large bag of

five-franc pieces, he told us to help ourselves, and was with difficulty

persuaded to take one of Herries’ notes in exchange. I merely mention

this to show how high the name of Englishmen then stood on the Continent.

Leaving Geneva for Italy, we proceeded by the route of the Simplon, the

construction of which I had promised to observe very attentively for my

father. The first portion only presents, as objects of interest, the

excavations through the rock of St. Gingough, near the upper end of the

lake. From Martigny we started up the valley of the Rhone, where, though

the ground is generally level, the road yet encounters considerable

difficulties from the river, which here assumes the character of a

torrent, and when swollen by floods sweeps almost everything before it;

wandering from side to side it deposits the _débris_ of the one side

on the banks of the other, forming, we may say, alternately rapids and

almost still pools, which renders it extremely difficult to confine its

course within any reasonable limits; so that the art of the engineer

is taxed to the uttermost. I thought that in many places the works

were not designed with that solidity which is so necessary under such

circumstances, and that sufficient precautions were not taken to arrest

the progress of the _débris_. I considered that by providing depositories

for it at certain favourable stations, the violence of the floods might

have been considerably controlled, a much greater extent of land on

both sides of the river rendered available for cultivation, and the

extensive marshes, which, operated upon by a powerful sun, now produce

most injurious exhalations, might have been deprived of their baneful

influence.

Having passed Sion, we left Brieg early on the 10th of August, and as

soon as we began the ascent I descended from the carriage, and with line

and rule I measured every bridge until we reached Boveno, on the Lake

Maggiore. I sent off from Milan, as I had promised, a detailed account of

this celebrated road to my father, giving a drawing and account of every

work, which I afterwards had the gratification of knowing afforded him

great pleasure. The whole Pass must have at first sight been appalling to

the engineers who traced the line of road; and although many other works

of the kind of greater magnitude have been since executed, nevertheless,

all things considered, it is worthy the approbation of mankind, and does

great credit both to those who designed and those who executed it.

We reached Milan[1] on the 12th of August, and I was much struck with the

fine canal which unites it with Pavia, and which can only be compared

with the canals of Belgium. It has been said that the first pound lock

was invented and executed by the famous Leonardi da Vinci, but subsequent

inquiries have induced me to believe that our own country is entitled to

the honour in the Exeter ship canal. I was also greatly pleased with the

system of irrigation employed generally throughout Lombardy. This system

was originally introduced by the Italians themselves, and during the

Austrian rule was carried to the greatest perfection, Lombardy being by

nature peculiarly well adapted to it. The vast and fertile valley of the

Po is for the most part destitute of rain during the summer, when it is

most wanted; but it fortunately happens that at this season water is most

abundant from the melting of the snows on the Alps, which descend into

the adjacent lakes and rivers, and would be otherwise wasted and thrown

away if not employed for fertilizing the land. The water, therefore, at

this season is conducted by an elaborate system of artificial canals,

and distributed over the adjacent lands according to their respective

levels, at a certain price, varying with the quantity distributed. Thus

the constant supply of water, the high temperature, and the fertility of

the soil combined, produce the most abundant crops, and the plains of

Lombardy are rendered the most productive and valuable in Europe; whereas

in winter, when the temperature is lowest, the snow is congealed on the

Alps, and comparatively little water comes down when it is least wanted.

From Milan we reached Verona, where the bridge, consisting principally of

brick, with binding courses of marble, can boast of one of the largest

brick arches in the world, an excellent example of what may be done with

this material when properly handled. After passing Vicenza and Padua, we

reached Venice early in September, 1819.

The extraordinary and at the same time most beautiful and novel

appearance of the city, with numerous towers and spires, about which I

had read and heard so much, and had so long wished to see, now stood

before me, and its loveliness more than realized my most sanguine

expectations. When I considered its origin, a few fishermen’s huts built

upon the mud banks of the lagoon by men flying from the invasion of

Attila, then the rise of the great republic whose wealth, conquests,

and influence were destined hereafter to play such an important part in

the world, and lastly the fallen and degraded state in which it then

presented itself before me, I was lost in astonishment; I was for a while

transported as it were in a dream, and could scarcely believe where I was.

The Grand Canal first attracted our notice,--perhaps there is no

thoroughfare in the world lined with so many magnificent palaces,--and

along which we passed until we came to the Rialto, a drawing of which I

made and sent to my father. But if I was delighted, and I may almost say

astonished, at the Grand Canal, I was still more so with the Place of St.

Marc and its surrounding buildings, so varied in their architectural

styles, yet each so picturesque and elegant in itself, and combined

together forming at once the most interesting and beautiful scene of

the kind in the world. It is one of those sights, at least speaking for

myself, that never satiates--the more I looked the more I admired it. As

to the details of these different buildings which we saw, they are so

much better described in the numerous guide books that it is unnecessary

to repeat them here.

I visited every part of the lagoons, including the various islands, all

of which are more or less deserving of notice, particularly the island

of Murano, the seat of the celebrated glass manufactories; and also the

Moravian establishment. But what really most interested me were the

lagoons, and the means which must have been resorted to for keeping them

open, notwithstanding the numerous causes which were and are constantly

in operation to fill them up with the alluvial matter brought down

from the mountains and plains by the various rivers and streams which

discharge their waters into this portion of the Adriatic, also from the

alluvium brought in from the adjacent shores, by the tide, which rises

from 2 to 4 feet, and at times, during heavy gales from the southward, as

much as 6 feet, overflowing the quays of St. Marc’s Place.

There was a long-continued discussion amongst the numerous distinguished

mathematicians, engineers, and others who have written upon this subject,

as to the best way of preventing the filling up of the harbour. Some

contended that the only method of effecting this was to admit all the

rivers into the lagoons freely; for although they might deposit a certain

amount of alluvial matter, nevertheless the great quantity of water

discharged would alone be sufficient to carry away this deposit. But they

forgot that when the rivers met the sea the current would necessarily

be checked and rendered powerless to carry forward any matter which

might be held in suspension, and that consequently the detritus would be

deposited and form banks and shoals which the waters could not remove;

thus in time the lagoons would be filled up, grass marshes would be

formed, the city of Venice would be united to the mainland, and the

harbour would be destroyed. On the other hand, it was argued, for the

reasons above mentioned, that the only way to preserve the lagoons and

the port of Venice was to exclude the rivers when densely charged with

alluvial matter, and only to admit their waters at certain times, when

they were comparatively clear; thus all the advantage would be obtained

from the scour of these rivers, without the disadvantage arising from

their deposits. Ultimately the arguments of the latter prevailed, the

rivers were excluded from the lagoons by making a capacious canal all

around them with sluices at their mouths, by means of which the waters

were discharged into the lagoons when they were tolerably clear of

alluvial matter; the surplus waters were discharged into the adjacent sea

clear of the lagoons, and any alluvial matter which was brought in from

the sea was removed by dredging from the main channels of the lagoons, so

that they were in a fit state to admit the tidal waters and thus to keep

the lagoons open.

But there was another important agent to be provided against, namely,

the alluvial matter brought in by the winds, waves, and currents from

the scouring of the adjacent shores of the Adriatic; this is done to a

certain extent by dredging. Originally these banks contributed materially

to the formation of the outer banks, which protect the lagoon on the

sea side. If these banks were broken through or completely swept away,

which the storms of the Adriatic frequently threatened to do, the lagoon,

and with it the port, would be seriously injured or totally destroyed.

This was remedied by defending this outer barrier bank of the lagoon by

facing it with stone, and where the sea was most violent by constructing

a solid breakwater of stone, and protecting it further by stone filters

carried out a sufficient distance into the sea in order to divert the

current, and to enable the alluvial matter to be deposited between them

so as to form an additional protection to the main breakwater; this was

accordingly done, and thus an extraordinary work at great expense has

been constructed between Lido and Malamocco, the principal entrances from

the sea to the lagoon, for a length of four miles, where the effects of

the sea are greatest.

Malamocco is the principal entrance for large vessels, and the channel

from thence to Venice has been deepened, chiefly by dredging, to the

extent of 24 feet at low water. Lido, which is the next chief entrance

and the nearest to Venice, being about 1½ mile distant from it, serves

for the general class of merchant vessels. The other entrances of Foggia,

Tre Porte, and the Piave, are seldom used except for fishing vessels,

and it is not necessary to do more to these than to keep them in their

present state, that is, to prevent deterioration, as it is an object

of importance to allow the great mass of water by which the lagoon is

chiefly preserved to pass in and out of the main entrances, Malamocco and

Lido. Upon the whole it appears to me that this latter plan is the wisest

that could be adopted, and the result has proved that it has been so far

successful, although attended with considerable expense. It is in fact

a choice of two evils, and the least has been chosen. It is, I believe,

admitted that the port of Venice is now capable of receiving as large,

if not larger, vessels than she ever received before; for it should be

recollected that in the most flourishing times of Venice there were no

ships drawing 23 or 24 feet, and vessels of this size can now enter and

depart at all times. Hence Venice has been converted into a port fit

for modern requirements; but it must always be borne in mind that so

strong are the natural obstacles against its maintenance that nothing can

preserve it in its present condition but the most constant vigilance and

care. Fortunately the method of dredging by steam has been introduced,

and this may be done to any extent, at a comparatively moderate cost,

but it can only be compensated for when there is a sufficient amount of

trade to pay for it. Still, in whatever way we may consider the question,

it must be admitted that the port of Venice has been preserved in a

most extraordinary manner during so many centuries, notwithstanding the

natural obstacles against it; and now that it has been connected with the

kingdom of Italy, there is no further drawback to its full development,

and it only requires self-reliance and energy to render it what it once

was, one, if not the most important, of the commercial cities of Italy.

At Bologna we had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the

celebrated linguist Mezzofanti, whose modest and simple manner,

accompanied by his extraordinary acquirements, quite enchanted us. The

singular fact is that at the time of our meeting him he had never been

out of the province of Bologna, and yet he had acquired the knowledge of

twenty-four languages, and, as far as our limited acquaintance went, he

spoke the English, German, French, Greek and Latin tongues perfectly; and

those conversant with the Oriental languages informed us that he spoke

them equally well. He appeared to be completely absorbed in languages,

and was scarcely acquainted with any other branches of knowledge; still

his wonderful mastery of this branch of study was a great acquirement,

and must have required vast powers of memory as well as indefatigable

study.

From thence we passed through Ravenna to Ancona, the position of which is

good, occupying as it does a salient point of the coast. The water is

deep and there is a commanding height for a citadel. The Roman emperors

resolved to take advantage of the situation, and built a town here, the

place being well adapted for a seaport. They accordingly made a mole

on the south side to protect the harbour against the most dangerous

winds, namely, those blowing from the south; they commenced the work

from the shore by throwing down large blocks of rough stone, which were

obtained from the rocks in the vicinity, in order to form a base for the

superstructure; these blocks of stone were deposited promiscuously in the

sea and left to the action of the waves, which in a comparatively short

time consolidated them until they formed a mass that at length became

immovable, always adding more stone as required until the whole became

solid; this foundation was carried up to the level of low-water mark.

They then commenced the superstructure of masonry, of squared stone and

brickwork cemented together by pozzolana or hydraulic mortar, which was

best adapted to make the work permanent. The inside or quay wall was

formed by first placing a close framework of timber in front and at the

angle or slope at which the quay wall was to be formed. They then threw

down a mass of pozzolana, lime, and small rubble stone, mixed together,

between the wooden frames and the rubble stone which had been previously

deposited to form the base of the mole. This in a comparatively short

time become solid, as the mixture of pozzolana, lime, and stone possesses

the quality of setting under water. When it had become sufficiently

solid, the timber frame was removed and transferred to another section to

form a continuation of the quay wall, and thus the whole line of inner

quay wall which formed the roadway was made by backing the quay wall to

its full height with rubble, and a parapet of masonry was erected on

the outside; this superstructure, although rough, stood very well with

occasional repairs. In this manner the mole was carried out to a great

extent. A fine triumphal arch was erected at the end to commemorate the

completion of the work.

It is singular that the same emperor should have constructed a like work

in a similar situation and in the same manner at Civita Vecchia, on the

opposite coast of Italy, after every attempt had been made to establish

a port by his predecessors at Ostia, which was built at extraordinary

expense, and has been filled up by the alluvial matter brought down by

the Tiber and from the sea by the littoral currents, so that it is now

three miles from the sea.

The principle of construction used in these works resembles a good

deal the mode adopted by the Phœnicians at Tyre, and subsequently by

the Carthaginians at Carthage, and by the moderns. The Romans also

employed the hollow mole, that is, a mole constructed with arches, by

means of which the current charged with alluvial matter was enabled to

pass through the mole, and thus any deposit within or without the mole

was to a great extent prevented. The harbour of Civita Vecchia remains

serviceable at the present day for vessels drawing 20 feet of water,

although, as may be naturally expected, a certain deposit has taken

place during the lapse of so many centuries which requires to be dredged

out occasionally. At Ancona only one pier was built on the south side,

and consequently an eddy and stagnation took place on the north side,

as the littoral current runs from south to north, and therefore there

is a tendency to deposit on the north side. The French when masters

of Italy commenced another mole on the north side, thus enclosing a

considerable space of sea so as to form a close harbour, which no doubt

is of great service; still, from the nature of the local circumstances,

a certain deposit may always be expected. This, however, can be removed

by dredging, and the harbour may always be preserved in a state of

efficiency if the extent of trade will warrant the expenditure necessary

for the purpose.

On reaching Rome, it is difficult to express the emotions I felt on a

first sight of the Holy City, surrounded by the desolate Campagna, the

Tiber rolling in front, the Castle of St. Angelo, and the numerous towers

of churches rising out of the mass of houses, crowned by the gorgeous

dome of St. Peter’s elevated in proud majesty above the whole, backed by

the magnificent views of the ancient city, once the mistress of the world.

This most interesting, I may say, most thrilling, sight lay before me

in all its solemn majesty. When I considered that it rose from a few

insignificant shepherds’ hovels to imperial splendour, then became the

prey of the barbarian hordes of the north, and lastly, the throne of

the Catholic Christian world, I was awed by the wonderful decrees of

Providence, and at the instability of all human grandeur. I lay restless

all night; I could scarcely realize the fact that I was actually in this

wonderful, all-absorbing city, to visit which from my childhood had been

one of the greatest objects of my ambition. It would be vain to attempt

to describe in detail its numerous splendid buildings, both ancient and

modern, its museums, and its countless treasures of priceless art. I will

merely remark that there is no city in the world more worthy of a visit

than Rome, or where greater gratification and instruction can be derived;

for example, the aqueducts and the Cloaca Maxima show how thoroughly

the Romans understood the importance of sewerage and good water for the

preservation of human life, an importance that is only now beginning

to be recognized in England, while there still remains very much to be

accomplished.

My friend Colonel Aitchison was obliged to hasten his departure. I then

took lodgings in the Piazza de Spagna, and devoted myself to the study

of the Italian language, architecture, and drawing, and in my leisure

moments entered into society; and fortunately at that time there were

assembled there some of the most distinguished characters in science,

literature, and art, besides diplomatists and leaders of fashion, from

the various capitals of Europe. Amongst the first may be mentioned the

celebrated chemist and philosopher, Sir Humphry Davy, and his talented

wife, under whose hospitable roof I passed many happy days, and at the

same time received much valuable instruction. I made acquaintance with

the Marchese Martinette, the scientific engineer, who at that time

devised the extensive hydraulic works for the improvement of the rivers

and drainage of the marsh-land districts of Bologna and Ferrara, from

whom I derived much information. I also met the well-known antiquary, Sir

W. Gell, who to his interesting memoir of Greece afterwards added much

towards explaining the antiquities of Rome, and in his agreeable society

I spent many a pleasant day. Dodwell too had just returned from Greece;

and I made the acquaintance of that prince of sculptors, Canova, to whom

my father had given me a letter of introduction. I frequently went to his

studio, where he always received me with the greatest kindness. He was

then at work on the model of his famous dying Madeleine, which struck me

as a masterpiece of elegance and beauty, combined with the resignation

and piety which so pre-eminently distinguishes it as a beautiful specimen

of art. Nobody could be more kind, amiable, and modest in his manner

than that distinguished sculptor. Flattered by emperors, kings, and the

great and cultivated of every land, he never for a moment forgot himself

or appeared to be elated, or to be put out of his ordinary simple,

unobtrusive manner; whilst to his brother artists he was equally kind

and familiar; to his inferiors he was always gentle and considerate,

giving his humbler fellow-workers every encouragement and advice,

cheering them on their way, and not unfrequently assisting them with his

purse when their necessities required it. He was devoted to his art,

of which he was so eminent a professor, and with it combined all those

amiable and charitable feelings which rendered him an universal favourite

and a benefactor to mankind.

I made acquaintance also with the great Dane, Thorwaldsen, who frequently

admitted me to his studio. He was totally different from Canova. His

square, massive head, covered with a redundance of flowing locks;

his finely-developed countenance, beaming with talent and firmness

of purpose; his colossal and well-proportioned figure, and erect and

commanding gait, all combined to raise in the mind of the spectator a

degree of respect and admiration not usually to be met with. Yet with all

this apparent sternness there was combined a happy mixture of gentleness,

genial sociability, and good-nature, which, after a little acquaintance,

soon made you feel at home with him; and the more you knew him the more

you liked him. He was then at work upon the colossal figures of the

Twelve Apostles, for the church at Copenhagen, a commission given to him

by the King. Several of these were finished, and magnificent specimens of

art they were. I have since seen them in their places, and have looked

at them with increased admiration. His Triumph of Alexander had just

then been completed, and a finer specimen of bas-relief it is impossible

to see. It is singular that with all this nobleness of character, and

being withal a perfect master in his art, this great man--for certainly

he was so in his sphere--should have looked upon Canova as his rival,

and disliked him with a dislike almost amounting to hatred, whereas the

gentle Canova had no such feeling towards Thorwaldsen.

Their styles, moreover, were so totally different from each other, that

there could be no reason for jealousy between them. Canova excelled in

the female form, where nothing but elegance, gentleness, and grace are

required, although he by no means failed in the male figure; whereas

Thorwaldsen excelled in that of the male, where force, manliness, and

dignity are mainly requisite. Both were at the head of their profession

in their respective styles, and both have left behind them numerous

masterpieces of art, which have never been surpassed in ancient or modern

times.

In addition to these celebrities, there were Lawrence, Chantrey, and

Turner, all engaged in their respective walks of art. These I had known

in England, and I received much kindness and instruction from them, and

enjoyed the greatest pleasure in their delightful society.

Numerous great houses were at that time open for the reception of all the

celebrities of Roman and foreign society, to which I had access. Amongst

many others may be mentioned those of the beautiful Princess Borghese,

the Duchess of Devonshire, and Lord William Bentinck. At the house of

the Duchess of Devonshire I was introduced to the polished courtier and

priest, Cardinal Gonsalvi, at that time Minister of Foreign Affairs to

the Pope, whose graceful manners and elegant language, combined with a

vast fund of information, enchanted everybody. I also met Thomas Moore,

who enraptured the whole audience by singing his fresh melodies, with

a degree of pathos, taste, and feeling which was peculiarly his own.

Neither must I forget Lady Morgan, whose lively and constant prattle

afforded much amusement, not altogether destitute of information.

At the hospitable house of Lord and Lady William Bentinck I saw the

_élite_ of English society, where I was frequently a welcome guest.

Amongst others, appeared the beautiful Miss Canning, afterwards the

Marchioness Clanricarde, and the silent, amiable, and unfortunate Lord

William Russell, who afterwards fell a victim to his servant, the

assassin Courvoisier.

To enumerate all the agreeable and talented persons of whom I had the

honour of making the acquaintance at Rome would be foreign to my purpose,

and out of place here. Suffice it to say, that the winter of 1819, which

I passed at Rome, was one of the most agreeable and instructive of my

life, and will ever be remembered by me with the most lively feelings

of satisfaction. Before leaving I had the honour of being presented to

the benevolent Pius VII., and was much captivated with his kind and

unostentatious reception. After witnessing the Church ceremonies of

Christmas, I left Rome just before the Carnival. I passed through Castel

Gandolfo, and afterwards came upon the Pontine Marshes.

The Pontine Marshes consist of a low tract of land, extending from the

elevated ridge of Castel Gandolfo to a spur of the Apennines, which

approach the Mediterranean near Velletri, being a length of about 20

miles, whilst on the east they are bordered by the Apennines, from whence

numerous streams and torrents descend into the marshes; and on the west,

or sea side, they are bounded by a line of sandbanks, or dunes, thrown

up by the waves and storms from the west; so that they form, as it

were, a basin into which all the waters flow, without a natural outfall

through which they can escape. To attempt to make a direct outfall to

the sea was perfectly practicable, but there was no rise of tide, so

that though the outfall would be considerably improved, there would yet

remain the difficulty of keeping it open, in consequence of the constant

influx of the sand. In similar, and indeed in all cases of this class,

there are two points to be considered, namely, the water which comes

from the highlands, and that which falls directly upon the lowlands.

Now the former, coming from a higher level, and necessarily having

greater velocity, will naturally descend to the lowest level, which is

the marshes, and will force its way to the outfall before the lowland

water; so that until the highland water is discharged, the lowland water,

having less inclination, cannot escape, and as the outfall was extremely

deficient, neither the highland nor lowland water could be discharged,

and both combined accumulated upon the lowlands and flooded them. It

therefore was evident that so long as this state of things remained it

was impossible for the lowlands to be properly drained, as the outfall

was deficient for the discharge of both waters when combined.

The only feasible mode of attaining the desired object was to separate

them; then, at least, the lowlands could not be incommoded by the

highland water, and would only have to discharge its own drainage. Thus,

if a catchwater drain had been made along the base of the highlands,

all that water might be discharged into the sea at any level required,

for there is ample fall or inclination; and if another and separate

outfall had been made for the discharge of the water falling upon the

lowlands, although with much less fall, it might have been discharged,

at least, to a great degree, if well embanked and of a proper size,

because it would have been unobstructed by the highland water. But even

supposing that any portion of the lowlands had been below the level of

the outfall, this defect could easily have been remedied by pumping

machines, worked either by wind, animal, or steam power, connected with

main and subsidiary drains of proper capacity. This plan, which has been

so effectively exemplified in the drainage of the great level of the Fens

and elsewhere, was not adopted, but the whole of the waters, highland as

well as lowland, were thrown into one drain and outfall, and thus before

the highland water could be discharged, the lowland water stagnated upon

the land. Until Mr. Rennie’s system is adopted, there never will be a

perfect drainage; and the more imperfect the outfall, the greater is the

necessity for adopting his system.

At Terracina we were terrified with the account of the brigands whom

we should have to encounter in crossing the spur of the Apennines

before we entered the kingdom of Naples. I here examined the old Roman

port, consisting of two artificial piers of stone carried out from the

shore, with the entrance pointing west. Both piers are long, and are

well constructed of solid masonry, with a parapet and roadway; there

being large mooring stones, with holes through their extremities, fixed

solidly into the inner or quay walls of each pier. Upon the whole this

is a substantial work, although, as the piers are curved, they are

badly adapted for breaking the waves on the outside, and for preserving

tranquillity within the harbour. The whole space within and without the

piers was filled up with sand to within two feet of the quay walls.

It is a common error, even at the present day, to make curved piers;

the consequence is, that when the waves strike them they accumulate as

they move forward, until at length they break with increased force and

carry all before them. The same takes place with the waves entering the

harbour, which produce such a degree of agitation within that vessels

cannot lie in safety; whereas by making the piers in several straight

arms the waves strike them on the outside, and they are broken, and

neutralize each other at the angles.

I reached Naples through a road closely patrolled by soldiers, with

blockhouses for ten or twelve men at very short intervals. Being bound

for Greece, my time was very short, yet I managed to ascend Vesuvius and

visit Herculaneum with Lord Guildford, as well as the Museo Borbonico as

often as possible.

I examined the modern harbour of Naples, and I doubt if anything could

be more badly designed. There are two small piers, the entrance between

which is difficult; it is exposed to the prevalent and dangerous winds,

and is scarcely safe inside. This is the more extraordinary, because

the numerous remains of the ancient harbours of the Romans, dispersed

throughout the bay, might have served as models for a port adapted

for all the requirements of modern trade as well as for war vessels.

The harbour must be improved before Naples can be provided with that

accommodation which her increasing trade imperatively requires.

I started from Naples with several others on the 31st January, 1820, and

after an alarm from a threatened attack by brigands on the summit of the

pass of Baveno, from which we were rescued by the timely arrival of the

Receiver-General of the province, on his official journey, accompanied

by a numerous escort of dragoons. We reached Lecce, the capital of the

province, on the evening of the 8th February, having been eleven days on

the journey, a distance of about 300 miles, rather fatigued, but much

pleased with this novel and interesting country, so seldom visited by

travellers. I alighted at the best hotel in the place, which was but very

indifferent, and the next day called upon General Church, the Governor

of the province, and was most kindly received by him, he insisting upon

my making his house my home. Here I again met with Lord Guildford, Lord

William Russell, and Chevalier Bronsted, with whom I had previously

made acquaintance at Rome. Lord Guildford was on his way to the Ionian

Islands on official business, and Sir Thomas Maitland, the Governor, had

ordered a vessel to be sent to Brindisi to convey his Lordship, who very

civilly offered me and our two mutual friends a passage. As the vessel

was not expected for several days, we in the meantime became the guests

of General Church, and were most hospitably entertained by him. General

Church was an extraordinary man. He was below the middle size, about the

age of five-and-forty, extremely well built, spare, sinewy, and active,

with a well-proportioned head, sharp piercing eyes, rather aquiline nose,

and a closely-compressed mouth, denoting great firmness and resolution.

He commanded a regiment of Albanians and Greeks, as an auxiliary corps

in the British employment, during the great war, and in that position

assisted the operations of the British cruisers on the coast of Italy;

and hence he became subsequently attached to the army of Lord William

Bentinck, after his conquest of Sicily. Church was a proficient in the

Greek, Italian, and French languages, and, having considerable military

talent, and being a great disciplinarian, soon brought the rough and

savage elements of which his corps was composed into tolerable order,

and rendered them of considerable service in the wild warfare in which

they were engaged. At the conclusion of the war he retired on half pay to

Naples, where, being well known to the Government, he was made Governor

of the province of Otranto, at that time overrun with brigands. Church

was appointed to the command with unlimited control, and by his vigorous

and energetic conduct soon spread terror and dismay amongst them; he was

here, there, and everywhere; when they least expected, he came upon them

suddenly, dispersed them, and destroyed the leaders without mercy. He

had many narrow escapes himself from sharing the same fate. Once it is

related that he and his aide-de-camp, Captain Kusini, entered unknowingly

a small town, of which one of the most able and daring brigand chiefs,

with a powerful band of followers, was in possession. Church, when he

found this, determined to make the best of it, being perfectly aware

of his danger. He entered the chief inn and sent for the landlord, who

recognized him at once, and asked him if he knew that the brigand chief

and his followers were actually in the town. “Yes,” replied Church, with

imperturbable coolness, “I am come expressly to meet him; tell him that

I want to see him immediately.” The brigand chief accordingly came,

astonished to see the General, whom he least expected; he began to be

alarmed, thinking he was surrounded. The General, addressing the brigand

by name, informed him that there was no chance of his escape, but that

if he and his followers would surrender, he would pardon them and get

them employed in the King’s army. The brigand chief and his men declined

this generous offer. Church then told him that he was sorry, for their

own sakes, as in future they could expect no mercy. The brigand and his

followers then withdrew, determined on their side to show no quarter to

the troops if ever they should get them within their power; but for the

moment, being ignorant of Church’s position, they were afraid to attack

him, little supposing that he was at that time theirs. This extraordinary

interview having terminated, Church felt that he had played the game

far enough, and the sooner he and his aide-de-camp made their escape

the better. The landlord, fortunately for them, kept the secret. The

General and his aide-de-camp escaped by the back of the house, climbed

over some fences, reached their horses, and then galloped off, never

pulling bridle until they had reached their own followers, who, when they

heard what had passed, were astonished at their escape, which was due

alone to the coolness and courage of the General. Scarcely had Church

and his aide-de-camp departed when the brigand and his followers learned

how completely they had been deceived, and at once set off in pursuit;

but they were soon obliged to retreat, being themselves pursued by a

superior force, from which they narrowly escaped capture; the band was

afterwards destroyed. This is but one out of the numerous instances

of Church’s extraordinary adventures. In a short time he extirpated

brigandism, the province regained its tranquillity, and the people

pursued their several employments in peace without fear of molestation,

blessing the General who had relieved them from their oppressors.

Being particularly desirous of seeing Brindisi, from my recollections

of Horace, I obtained an escort of two dragoons from General Church,

for, said he, “You may meet some unwelcome visitors on the way; but

if they see the uniform of my dragoons they will not trouble you with

their acquaintance.” Brindisi, which I need not now describe, struck me

as being an excellent port on the whole, and now that it is made the

terminus of the railway from Naples, which connects it with the entire

railway system of Europe, it will no doubt become a place of considerable

importance.

I embarked with Lord and Lady Guildford and others in a Government

vessel, and reached Corfu on the 27th February. The day was fine, and we

were much struck with the beauty of the surrounding sea and mountains,

together with the view of the magnificent inlet forming the harbour of

Corfu, comprising as it did the ancient and picturesque town on the bold

outline of St. Salvador and the rich undulating fields. As this was the

first time I had seen anything of Greece, I particularly remarked the

handsome appearance of the population and their picturesque costume.

There was nothing worthy of notice in the town except the old

fortifications, so that I determined to make my stay as short as

possible and take the first conveyance for Zante, and from thence to

the mainland of Greece. Corfu, having been under so many different

governments, partook in some measure of the character of all--Turkish,

Venetian, Russian, French, English, but the ruling feature was Greek

and Albanian. Our Government, urged on by that amiable, excellent, and

enthusiastic person, the late Lord Guildford, had determined to establish

an university at Zante, to revive classical learning, and Lord Guildford

was appointed Lord Rector. He was an excellent scholar and linguist,

and a most good-natured person; he was anything but a man of the world,

and little acquainted with the real character of the modern Greeks. Sir

Thomas Maitland, the Lord Chief Commissioner and Governor of the islands,

was a totally different character, and knew the Greeks well. He was a

stern, uncompromising soldier, with great talent, courage, and firmness,

joined to long experience in war, politics, and governing mankind

in every part of the world; he was not to be deceived by plausible

appearances; to use his own phrase, he would stand no humbug, and would

make his commands obeyed, although he was a strict administrator of

justice. He treated Lord Guildford’s plan with great ridicule. “They were

clever and learned enough, but they had already a great deal to unlearn;

the first thing was to make them honest and obedient to the law.” When

Sir Thomas became Lord Chief Commissioner of the Ionian Islands, the

population was in a most disorganized state; pillage, murder, and piracy,

were very common, and the malefactors were triumphant, and defied the

law. It therefore required a strong hand to keep them in order, and Sir

Thomas was just the man to do it--which he did. Under his strict but just

rule they soon became more manageable, as they found he would not be

trifled with.

On the day after my arrival I left my card at the palace, and received

an invitation to dine with him on the 2nd March. I had taken no letter

of introduction to him, although he knew my father; but I had previously

heard that he disliked nothing so much as letters of introduction,

and seldom paid them any respect, even when coming from the highest

quarters. I accordingly made my appearance at the palace punctually at

the time appointed, and soon after a brilliant assemblage was collected,

in full costume, all waiting for the Governor. He shortly after appeared

in full uniform, covered with orders. He was a rather fine-looking man,

about sixty-five, of the middle size, with a strong, square, well-built,

well-proportioned, figure. His countenance and speech betrayed his Scotch

origin; and his large bluish-grey eyes shaded by shaggy eyebrows, his

well developed nose, and compressed mouth, evinced a decided strength

of will. His speech was terse and blunt, but with a strange mixture of

kindness and severity, and altogether he was evidently made to command

and be respected. I kept in the background, but he came up to me, and in

his dry Scotch manner said, “I suppose you are Mr. Rennie; and pray, sir,

may I ask what brought you to this country?” “To study the antiquities of

ancient Greece.” He at once replied, with a certain degree of vehemence,

“A pack of nonsense; gang awa’ back to your worthy father in England,

he will teach you more in two days than ye will learn here in all your

life.” Then, shaking me very cordially by the hand, he said, “But I am

very glad to see you, and if I can do anything for you I shall be very

happy, for your gude father’s sake.” Dinner was then announced, and a

capital dinner we had, Sir Thomas making himself very agreeable, and

cracking his Scotch jokes right and left with a great deal of glee. I

sat nearly at the bottom of the table, and immediately opposite to me

was Colonel Napier, afterwards the celebrated Sir Charles Napier of

Scinde. I was much struck with his countenance; his keen piercing eyes,

his prominent aquiline nose, and his restless, quivering lips, marked

him out as a man of great character. I said to myself, if opportunity

offers, that man will much distinguish himself hereafter, and time has

shown that I was not mistaken. Sir Thomas is reported to have said,

“Napier is a great Radical, and a friend to liberty and equality; he

has considerable talents, and I will give him an opportunity of showing

himself, and I will wager that before six months are over there will be a

petition to the House of Commons against him for tyranny and oppression

of the people.” Sir Thomas was a true prophet; he made Colonel Napier

Governor of the island of Cephalonia; a most troublesome set he had to

deal with, and he was obliged to use harsh measures to bring them under

control; true enough a petition was got up by the inhabitants of the

island complaining of him for his severity and cruelty, and requesting

the Government to remove him from his command. When Sir Thomas heard of

this he laughed heartily, and said, to his staff, “Did not I tell you so?

the Radicals, however much they may preach about liberty and equality,

are always the greatest tyrants.” Sir Thomas was held in high respect at

head-quarters, and whenever he went to England and asked for instructions

at the Colonial Office, was told to write them for himself, as the

Government had entire confidence in him.

I here made the acquaintance of Captain Smyth, of the Navy, and his

amiable and accomplished wife. Captain Smyth was then employed in making

a survey of the Ionian Islands for the British Government, which was

afterwards published; and certainly for elaborateness of detail and

completeness of execution it has seldom been surpassed. Every plate

is ornamented with a view of the architectural remains of the most

remarkable buildings in the district, and also views of the coast,

which were drawn by Mrs. Smyth with great taste, beauty, and fidelity,

and form an important feature in this great work. Captain (afterwards

Admiral) Smyth was a man of considerable scientific acquirements; and

after having been most actively employed in different parts of the world

(always with distinction), he retired to Bedford, where he erected an

observatory, and published his celebrated astronomical observations,

which, in addition to his public service, entitle him to a high place

among literary, scientific, and professional men. He was of a most

amiable and jovial disposition, ever ready for fun and amusement whenever

they did not interfere with his duties; he was, moreover, always ready to

serve a friend, and was universally beloved and respected by his numerous

acquaintance. For myself, I regarded him as a valuable and sincere

friend, whose loss I afterwards most deeply regretted.

Count Lunzi, one of the Greek nobles, a most agreeable and talented

young man, and a large proprietor on the island, who had travelled

with us, invited me to his country house, and I set off with my friend

the Chevalier Bronsted to pay him a visit on the following day, the

10th February. We started on horseback on a fine day, and after riding

through a rich, level plain for about ten miles, we reached the volcanic

pitch-wells, and on our return found Count Lunzi awaiting our arrival

at his Villa Sarachina. He received us most cordially, and conducted us

into the house, and we were introduced to his family, by whom we were

most hospitably entertained. We then took a kind farewell of our host at

5 P.M., mounted our horses, and proceeded homewards. At first we rode

along leisurely, and gradually quickened our pace; at last we got into a

full gallop. My horse, which was little better than a pony, although a

very handsome, strong, well-made animal, by this time became so excited

that he fairly got the better of me, and proceeded at a furious rate,

so that I lost all control over him. Away he went helter-skelter over

land and water, driving all before him. In vain I attempted to stop

him. At last, finding it useless, I let him have his way; and arriving

at the bay of Zante, he made direct for the sea. I allowed him to

proceed until he began to swim; then, finding he was in no disposition

to return, I dismounted, and partly swam, partly waded ashore, where I

awaited his return; he soon got tired of swimming, and came to land. I

then caught him, and mounted, and returned to Zante. My friend Bronsted,

who was completely distanced, joined me as I remounted, and we rode back

together. As we entered the town I saw a number of soldiers looking on

and laughing; I did not know why. But it appeared that this pony was

noted throughout the place for his tricks, and they wondered how, after

venturing upon his back (which I certainly should not have done if I had

known his vicious character), I had come back safe and sound. However, I

had punished him pretty well, and he became quieter afterwards. We had

a hearty laugh at the adventure; and, being thoroughly drenched to the

skin, I changed my clothes, and joined Sir Patrick Ross’s dinner-party,

when again everybody laughed at me, and congratulated me upon my happy

escape.

Before quitting this subject I cannot help saying a few words about

my friend Bronsted, the Dane. He was a most excellent person, and a

first-rate scholar and antiquary, well known for his researches. He had

acquired some most valuable bronzes, being portions of helmets found at

Cortona, of which he published an elaborate account. The figures and

other ornaments are most elaborate in design and execution; in fact, they

are masterpieces of art, and were afterwards bought by the British Museum

(for a considerable sum), where, I believe, they still remain.

I made several other excursions to various parts of the island; amongst

others, to the top of the mountain which forms the south-west promontory

of the bay. The summit rises far above the Mediterranean, and the view

from it is magnificent, commanding the whole of the beautiful island,

which lies at its base like a rich garden, and some other islands and

adjacent coasts.

The inhabitants are a good-looking, active, and industrious race, but,

like their neighbours, inclined to be very turbulent, and require to be

kept in order by the strong arm of the law.

While here, just at the equinox, we had, as usual, some very severe

storms; and one night I was roused from my sleep with a violent shaking

of the bed, which lasted several seconds. It was at the same time raining

tremendously, and blowing very hard, accompanied by violent thunder

and lightning. I jumped out of bed, not knowing what it was; the house

trembled, and I thought it was coming down. The other inmates were also

alarmed. After waiting anxiously for some time the storm abated. I

went to bed again, and slept soundly until morning, and then inquired

of the landlord the cause, when he informed me that it was the shock

of an earthquake, which they frequently felt in the island; and on the

following day we learned that the same earthquake had been most severely

felt at the neighbouring island of Santa Maura, that many houses had been

thrown down, and a number of the unfortunate inhabitants destroyed. I

had frequently been told by persons who had lived in volcanic countries

of the extraordinary sensation produced by earthquakes on the human

frame, but until I had experienced it I never could appreciate its

effects; certainly they are most remarkable; the whole nervous system is

convulsed, and one fancies that the last hour has arrived, so that it

takes some time before the system recovers its usual tone. I certainly

should not wish to experience another shock, and was extremely happy to

have escaped with nothing more than a shaking and a severe fright.

Having now spent fourteen days very agreeably, being most kindly

entertained by the Governor, Sir Patrick Ross, the officers of the 75th,

and others, and having seen enough of Zante, I was anxious to proceed

on my journey, only waiting for a vessel to take me to Greece, when

fortunately I heard that an English mercantile brig, commanded by Captain

Burgess, a rough old Scotchman, was about to sail for Patras, so I at

once took my leave of Sir Patrick Ross, his family, and all my other kind

friends, packed up my baggage, embarked at 3 P.M. on the 23rd March, and

bade adieu to Zante. After a pleasant passage, but rough accommodation,

we arrived at the entrance to the Gulf of Corinth, and anchored in

the roadstead about a mile from the shore. I paid my passage, landed,

proceeded up to the town, called upon Mr. Green, the Consul, and soon

found tolerably comfortable quarters in a Greek house, but the beds were

sadly infested with bugs, which annoyed me much. Before leaving Zante, I

ought to say that I here engaged a Greek, who had been well recommended

to me. His name was Demetrius Papandriopolo. He was about thirty-five,

of the middle size, sharp, active, sober, intelligent, and honest, and

served me faithfully through the greater part of my journey, for above

twelve months, until I returned to Malta on my way back to England. I

found him a most valuable servant, and he rendered me the most essential

services.

Patras was then a trading town of some importance, in fact, the principal

one in the Morea, and it contained a considerable number of inhabitants,

almost wholly Greeks, without including the Turkish garrison. It is

situated on a hill about a quarter of a mile from the gulf of the same

name, where there is a small rubble jetty for boats to land their goods,

&c. The roadstead outside is safe and well protected. The town is

surrounded by a rich, fertile plain, well cultivated with olives, vines,

and currants. The entrance to the Gulf of Corinth is protected by two

old castles, the distance between them being about a mile and a half;

and three miles east is the modern town of Lepanto (it was formerly the

ancient Naupactus), celebrated for the victory over the Turks by John of

Austria; it contains 2000 souls; the surrounding views are very fine.

The town was under the command of a Turkish Governor, and is situated

upon the side of a hill rising to the east, encompassed by a rude wall

and ditch, and crowned at the summit by a citadel, in which the Governor

and the garrison resided. Besides the citadel there were no remarkable

buildings of any kind: the streets were narrow and dirty. There were a

few mosques interspersed here and there, whose graceful minarets, rising

above the mass, gave the place a most picturesque appearance. The town

contained numerous bazaars, where all the trade of the place was carried

on, and the neighbourhood of the main street was filled with cafés,

crowded with Greeks, Turks, Ionians, French, English, and various other

nations, all smoking their long pipes, drinking coffee, sherbet, and

various other liquors, apparently in great comfort. The Turk, as lord

supreme, moved leisurely about with the most solemn dignity, having

the greatest contempt for his neighbours, and every now and then, as

a Christian passed by, he greeted him with a lofty scowl, as if he

considered him unworthy of notice, uttering the simple word Giaour! and

passed on without further ceremony. I frequently wandered amongst the

bazaars, then to me a perfectly novel sight, and was much amused with

the gravity and solemn dignity with which the Turks sat cross-legged

behind their counters; if you asked for any of their wares, they quietly,

with a monosyllable, ordered their assistant to show it to you, as if

they considered it a favour. This was so different to what I had been

accustomed to in the civil, well-bred shopkeepers in Europe, that I

could not help laughing outright, which I soon found would not do, as it

gave great offence.

One morning, whilst walking along the shore in front of the roadstead,

whom should I stumble upon but my old friend Captain Smyth, who had come

to Patras on a surveying expedition in one of the small auxiliary boats

attached to his larger vessel, which lay at anchor in the roadstead. This

auxiliary boat, although small, was fitted up with every convenience

for the purpose, and adapted to enter shoal water, in order to complete

the details of the survey. In this he was accompanied by one or two

assistants, and a few men to work it, so that he could be absent from

his ship for several days without inconvenience. Captain Smyth was

delighted to see me, and asked me to dine with him on board his boat,

and I agreed to, with great pleasure. I accordingly went there at the

time appointed, and amongst the guests met Captain Hunter and his wife,

and our worthy Consul (Mr. Green). We had a most cordial welcome and an

excellent dinner, and afterwards passed a delightful evening. Towards

sunset we adjourned to the beach in order to take ices, which we got

from the town, and enjoy ourselves by smoking our cigars. Whilst we were

thus happily seated, laughing and talking together, we were surrounded

by numerous Greeks from the town, amongst whom were several Turkish

soldiers, armed to the teeth, and carrying their long pipes, which they

never abandoned for a moment. The jolly old Captain said, “Now I will

astonish these fellows,” and immediately dispatched one of his officers

for his seven-barrelled pistol, which was brought, and duly loaded. He

then told his interpreter to inform the Turks that this was a pistol

which he could discharge as many times as he liked without reloading. The

Turks held up their hands in astonishment, exclaimed “In Shallah!” and

with a scornful look at us, said such a thing was not possible. Smyth,

however, at once rose from his seat, deliberately discharging his pistol

one, two, three, four, five, and six times, to the utter amazement of the

Turks, who could scarcely believe what they saw. He then, with the utmost

coolness, asked whether they were convinced, to which they all replied,

with the exclamation of “In Shallah!” perfectly so. Smyth then offered

them coffee and ices, of which they readily partook, and, after a hearty

salutation and shaking of hands, they returned to the town, saying what

wonderful people these Ingleses are. This pistol resembled the modern

Colt revolver, although differing in some particulars. Before leaving I

visited the celebrated cypress tree, three miles to westward. Its base is

about 40 feet in circumference, and it is 35 to 40 feet high, the upper

part having been blown off during a gale. I also visited St. Andrea,

where were the remains of the well and some fragments of sculpture.

I took leave of my excellent and talented friend, the Captain, and

determined to start the next day, the 27th of March. Upon returning to

my quarters at Patras, I was informed that there was a French gentleman

of the name of Prevot, an artist, who was about proceeding to Athens to

make a panoramic view of that city, and was desirous of knowing whether I

would allow him to accompany me. Finding him a very agreeable person, and

having been introduced by Mr. Green, and being glad of a companion upon

my lonely and novel journey, I willingly consented to his joining me.

Having got all my baggage on board, attended by my servant Demetrius,

we started early on the following morning, the 27th, at seven. The day

was unfortunately very rough, with violent gusts of wind, heavy rain,

accompanied by thunder and lightning; notwithstanding which we started

on our journey, and when we got into the gulf there was a heavy swell

(which threatened at times to overwhelm the boat and all in it), with

baffling winds, which materially retarded our progress. We struggled

on all day: at last our boatmen said that it was impossible to proceed

farther; we therefore determined to run ashore, and finish our journey

the next day. We accordingly did so, and landed in a small bay, the only

safe one on the south side, near Vostizza, at about four o’clock in the

afternoon, two hours before sunset. Then came the question, where were we

to sleep? Vostizza was about one or two miles distant, and there were no

means of transporting our baggage there; and to leave it in the boat was

to expose it to being plundered, as the boatmen said they would not be

responsible for it, in consequence of the numerous bad characters lurking

about, pirates, robbers, &c. As there was no possibility of getting our

things to Vostizza, and there were the remains of a convent (which had

been ruined by an earthquake) close by on the shore, on a cliff about 50

feet above the gulf, I proposed at once that we should place our things

there, and sleep, to which my companion, who was very tired and sick of

the voyage, readily consented. We got the boatmen to land the things, and

place them in the convent; but when we got there, to our great surprise

and mortification, found that it was uninhabited and half in ruins.

There was no alternative, however, as there was no other building near

us; so we made the best of it, and prepared to pass the night there. We

went upstairs, explored the ruined building all over, and at length we

discovered one large room tolerably perfect, and capable of keeping out

the rain. This we chose for our night’s quarters, placed the baggage

in order, and then commenced to prepare our supper. Upon examining our

provisions, such as we had, we found them considerably damaged by the

wet and unfit for use. I then decided that Demetrius and myself should go

to the bazaar of Vostizza, and purchase what we could get, whilst we left

M. Prevot in charge in the convent; and I gave the boatmen some money on

account to provide themselves for the night where they could: the boat,

everything having been taken out, was firmly moored to the shore.

Demetrius and myself went to Vostizza, and returned to the convent just

after dark, laden with a bag well furnished with wine and provisions, the

best we could get, and immediately set about preparing our mattresses

for beds, and lighting a good fire to cook the supper. Demetrius was a

capital cook, and about nine o’clock had got ready an excellent repast.

Having had scarcely anything all day, and being miserably wet and cold,

after having washed, and dressed in dry things, with a roaring wood fire

before us, we enjoyed our supper excessively, forgot all discomforts, and

about eleven lay down upon our mattresses for the night. Before doing

this, warned by what our boatmen told us of the insecurity of the place,

we fastened the door of our room as well as we could with an English

padlock, and placed our heavy baggage and the table against the door,

examined the priming of our pistols, which were well loaded, and lay

down to sleep. My mattress was placed immediately opposite to the door,

Demetrius was in the other corner, and M. Prevot near the fireplace, with

an understanding between us that if any noise occurred during the night

we were not to leave our berths, for fear of mistaking each other for an

enemy. We slept tolerably sound until about two o’clock in the morning,

when I awoke and thought I heard the movement of footsteps on the landing

outside our door. We had kept a light burning all night. I listened

again attentively, and thought I heard voices outside, then something

like a push against the door. I awakened my companions, and told them

to be ready with pistols, but not to fire until we were attacked, and

then if possible to keep our positions. I had scarcely done this when a

violent attack was made against the door, which in a moment was burst

in, the table, portmanteaus, &c., being hurled into the middle of the

room; this was immediately followed by a rush of several armed men. I

instantly fired into the midst of them, Demetrius seconded me by another

shot, and I repeated mine. We then heard a shriek as if somebody was

wounded, and the whole of our assailants precipitately beat a retreat,

scampering down the stairs as rapidly as possible. I reloaded, and we

jumped up, rushed to the stair-head, and were going to follow them, but

upon second thoughts we considered it best to remain where we were. We

then secured the door again and tried to sleep, but in vain; we therefore

lay watching until daylight, when our boatmen called us, and we prepared

to depart, rejoicing heartily at our lucky escape from being robbed and

murdered, as we assuredly should have been if we had not been armed and

defended ourselves so stoutly. Before leaving, we examined the landing

and stairs, and discovered some traces of blood, so that some one must

have been wounded. Our boatmen told us that we had a very narrow escape;

they said that they would not have slept there, and indeed told us before

that we had better not, as there were numerous pirates and rascals in the

vicinity, who waylaid all travellers, and seldom allowed them to escape

even with their lives.

Early in the morning, which was very fine after the storm, we set

sail with a fair wind, and bid adieu to Vostizza, with a remembrance

of its inhospitable shore not likely to be soon forgotten. We had a

delightful voyage, and enjoyed the beautiful mountain scenery on both

sides of the gulf with much satisfaction, and reached the custom-house

of Corinth, three miles from the town, before the close of the day.

We then discharged our boatmen, and finding no horses, were obliged to

stop at this nasty, wretched place, and passed a most miserable night.

Next morning, the 29th, having got horses, we started at eight and

reached the caravanserai at Corinth at nine, and having breakfasted and

dressed, called upon the Bey, who received us very civilly. We wandered

about all day examining the place and its antiquities. I arose early in

the morning, awakened by the Muezzin as he was calling the faithful to

prayers from the galleries of the minarets attached to the mosques. I

had not heard this at Patras, having slept too late, and therefore it

appeared to me for the first time most novel and singular. I listened

to it with peculiar interest, as the contrast was so different to our

own, where this office is performed by bells. On the same day, after

breakfast, I examined the town, a poor miserable place domineered over by

the Turks, with no trade, and the wonder was how the people lived. There

was nothing worthy of examination except the beautiful remains of the

Temple of Venus, of the simple, severe, yet commanding Doric order. A few

columns only were left, surmounted by the cornice and entablature; these

have been so often measured and engraved, that it is unnecessary to say

more about them here, except that they are eminently beautiful, and an

excellent specimen of that bold and expressive style of architecture. I

was anxious to mount the Acropolis, crowned by an old fort and garrisoned

by Turks, but this was not permitted: I regretted it much, for, seated

as it is on a commanding eminence, eighteen hundred feet above the level

of the adjoining gulf, the view over the sea and the fine mountainous

surrounding country must be magnificent; but the Turks in those days were

so proud, insolent, and domineering, that the sight of a Christian was an

abhorrence to them, and one was glad to get out of their way, although

even then they had considerable respect for the English, more indeed

than any other nation; for we had saved them from the French and had

protected them against the encroachment of the Russians, who had already

begun to be very troublesome. Having nothing further to see, we were

anxious to get away as early as possible.

There were two routes to Athens, to which we were destined, one entirely

by land over the isthmus, the other by sea, after crossing the six

miles of isthmus which separates the Corinthian Gulf from the Ægean

Sea. We determined therefore to take the latter, and on the 30th March,

having engaged the necessary number of horses, and loaded them after a

considerable wrangling and noise with their keepers, started at 1 P.M.

for Recrees Ceneres, on the borders of the Ægean Sea. At 3 P.M., in

crossing the isthmus, we came upon the remains of the wall said to have

been built by the Venetians for preventing the incursions of the Turks

into the Morea. Here we dismounted, and engaged one of the boats of the

country and embarked. However, as there was little or no wind, we were

out all night, and did not reach the Piræus before four o’clock in the

afternoon of the 31st. This is a fine natural port, but the town was

then a miserable place, surrounded by a few wretched buildings, at the

head of which was a Turkish custom-house, where the authorities at first

made considerable opposition to our landing. However, I soon silenced

them with a respectable backshish, or present, when they became as civil

as possible, and not only allowed us to land with our baggage, but did

not subject us to any examination; we therefore at once inquired for

horses to take us to Athens, but finding none to be had, were obliged

to remain that night in a wretched plastered room at the custom-house.

Next day, 1st April, having got horses, we started at six, with no end

of wrangling with muleteers, which the Turks soon silenced by laying

about right and left, to our great amusement. I at once interfered, and

rewarded the Turks with another backshish, when they heartily saluted

me, and we started without further molestation, and reached Athens, six

miles distant, over a miserable road, within an hour and a half, at

half-past seven o’clock. There were then no hotels, so we took up our

quarters at the house of a respectable Greek, Toagrafos, with but poor

accommodation. I by this time had become so accustomed to bad fare and

lodging that I did not mind it, but my friend, the French artist, was

not so easily satisfied; we therefore parted, and he endeavoured to find

better apartments elsewhere. I never met him again, and consequently do

not know how he succeeded with his panorama, or whether he ever completed

it, but I heard that about a year afterwards a panorama of Greece had

been exhibited at Paris with considerable success. I hoped that it was

that of my friend, for he appeared to be an excellent person, and was

certainly a very pleasant companion, with all the characteristic ardour

and enthusiasm of his countrymen. He had never been out of France before,

and therefore felt the _désagréments_ of the journey a great deal more

than I did; nevertheless, by the time he reached Athens he had become

tolerably well accustomed to it, and, with the usual French _sang froid_,

made up his mind to it, and enjoyed the journey as much as myself.

We arrived at Athens on Friday, the 1st April, in the midst of spring;

the weather was delightful, the sun shining brightly, the sky cloudless,

the vegetation bursting into full luxuriance, the plain and mountains

covered with flowers and shrubs of the most brilliant and varied hues.

Nature seemed to be in all her glory, and man to sympathize with her. I

was in most exuberant spirits, and was pleased with everything around me.

The beauty of the country, and the very idea that I was in Athens, which

from my boyhood I was most anxious to see, and which I scarcely ever

expected to behold, aroused me to such a pitch of enthusiasm that I could

scarcely believe my eyes; which was not extraordinary, considering the

brilliant and memorable scene which burst upon my sight, and by which I

was surrounded. I soon sallied forth again, called upon the English and

Austrian consuls and delivered my letters, and hurried about all day,

taking a hasty view of the Parthenon, the Temple of Theseus, Jupiter

Olympus, and the Temple of the Winds, which I admired excessively; then,

thoroughly tired and exhausted, I returned to my lodgings, took a hasty

supper and went to bed, dreaming of the glories of ancient Greece. After

breakfast I went out, and at once made my way to the Acropolis, where

the glorious Parthenon stood out prominently. I was riveted to the spot

with admiration, and could go no farther. At last I came to myself, and

found the scorching rays of the sun rather more than agreeable. I then

returned to my quarters, dined, reposed during the heat of the day,

and towards evening I again sallied forth, and enjoyed a magnificent

sunset, such as I had been totally unaccustomed to in our frigid climate

of England. I again went to the Acropolis the following day, and there

enjoyed the splendid scene. The Acropolis is a detached rock, standing

high above the plain or valley on which Athens is situated; upon this

rock is the citadel, where the Parthenon, the Erechtheum, and all the

other principal buildings are placed, and in addition to this it is

a citadel or fortress, where, in case of attack, and the city below

being taken, the Acropolis would form a refuge for the garrison and

the inhabitants. From the summit you command a view of the country all

around: on the north Mount Olympus and the Pindus range of mountains; on

the south the Mediterranean, the island of Syra, and several others; on

the east the plain of Athens, flanked by Mount Hymettus, and Mount Hybla

on the north; on the west the Piræus, the Ægean Sea, and the mountains of

the Peloponnesus or Morea; in fact, whichever way you look, the view is

delightful, and you are satisfied.

I at once removed into a new lodging in a Greek house, which appeared

tolerably clean and comfortable but as usual I found it full of fleas,

which tormented me day and night. However, when I went to bed I hit upon

a plan to relieve me at least of a good many of them, which fortunately

proved successful. I placed a number of large plates filled with oil,

having a wick in them; I then lighted the wicks, and the fleas, attracted

by this, leaped into the plates, which in the morning were black with

them, and by this means I got rid of the greatest part, and at length

enjoyed some comfort.

I now determined to study the antiquities more at leisure, and set

regularly about it. Every morning, immediately after breakfast, I

proceeded to the Acropolis, and employed myself in drawing and measuring

the Parthenon, Erechtheum, and other buildings until dinner time; and

after, in the evening, I took walks and rides round the adjacent country.

Having finished the Acropolis, I then proceeded to the Temples of Theseus

and Jupiter Olympus, the Temple of the Winds, and the other antiquities,

which occupied me about a month. All these splendid specimens of

architecture have been so accurately described in the elaborate works of

Stuart, Cockerell, Dodwell, Gell, and others, that it is unnecessary to

describe them here. With regard to the Piræus, and the other ports of

Athens, I examined them minutely, and for plans and description of them I

refer to my work on ‘British and Foreign Harbours.’ I also saw a little

of Athenian society. Amongst others, I made the acquaintance of the Maid

of Athens (so celebrated by Byron), who was very pretty, ladylike, and

agreeable. I was also most kindly received by Mr. Gropeus, the Austrian

Consul, Mr. Logotheti, the English Consul, and by the well-known artist,

Mr. Luzieri, who had made some fine views of Athens for Lord Elgin.

The Turks treated the Greeks with great contempt and very little

ceremony. By way of illustration, I was present at the arrival of a new

Governor or Vaivode. His Excellency came mounted on a beautiful white

Arabian horse, surrounded by about a hundred well-mounted cavalry, all

in the magnificent Turkish costume of the day; next there followed the

hareem, in crimson-coloured carriages, each slung between two horses,

and escorted on foot by numerous eunuchs and blacks, all splendidly

attired; then the baggage, which was carried on the backs of horses, led

and guarded by Greeks, mixed with Turkish soldiers on foot. The whole

town turned out to witness the sight and welcome their new Governor, who

scarcely deigned to look at them; whilst the attendants going before

cleared the way with sticks, which they by no means used sparingly,

dealing their blows right and left on everyone within reach. A number

of Turkish lads amongst the crowd amused themselves by firing off their

guns and pistols, which were loaded with ball and shot. They took no care

which way they fired; sometimes in the air, sometimes on the ground, and

sometimes straight forward amongst the crowd; of course everybody got

out of the way, myself amongst the number. I saw one Greek who had his

leg broken by a shot from a Turkish lad near me, at which he, the Turk,

and the whole of his companions, shouted with joy, and seemed to think

it great fun: at this I could not restrain my indignation, and being

armed with a good stout stick, I rushed amongst them, striking right and

left: some Greeks tried to stop me, but I stuck to them, and had the

satisfaction of seeing that no more shots were fired except in the air.

Nothing impressed the Turks with so much respect as courage and vigour;

the more you humbled yourself, the more they bullied you, being anything

but fond of fighting. I found from experience that this was the only way

to treat them; for though frequently amongst them, and under the most

trying circumstances, I was rarely molested. Afterwards I witnessed the

entrance of the Pacha of Negropont, which was in the same style, but upon

a more extended scale.

I occasionally visited the convents, inhabited by a few worthy monks, who

kindly receive strangers and lodge and board them for a moderate sum. The

situation is excellent, being in the higher part of the town, close to

the beautiful remains of the Temple of the Winds, with a splendid view.

Athens at the time of my visit was a poor miserable place, without an

inn worthy of the name. It was surrounded by a crenellated wall, which

even the artillery of that day would have demolished with a few rounds

of shot. The Ilyssus and Cephisus are trifling streams, which, passing

on the south side of the town, discharge their waters into the sea a

few miles below. During summer there is scarcely any water, as it is

conducted away by different channels for irrigation, so that the beds of

these two rivulets are dry.

Having explored Athens sufficiently for my purpose, I determined to make

a tour of the Morea, and accordingly hired a small decked vessel of about

30 tons to cross the Ægean Sea, leaving Athens for the Piræus on the 25th

of March; and after waiting some time on board in the harbour, at seven

on the 25th started, reached Ægina at eight, landed after breakfast, and

proceeded on foot to the Temple of Jupiter, on a hill about a mile from

the shore. We spent here nearly three hours measuring and examining the

remains of this beautiful specimen of Greek architecture, and sketching

the surrounding picturesque scenery; then started for the town and

port of Ægina, whither I had sent the vessel to meet us, and was told

that the distance was only three or four miles, which turned out to be

nearly twelve, over a rough path, so that we did not reach Ægina until

nearly 6 P.M., very tired and hungry, having had no lunch. The Temple of

Jupiter is a fine specimen of the Doric, and is well described in Mr.

C. R. Cockerell’s excellent work, to which the reader is referred. The

small town of Ægina is situated about the middle of the west side of the

island, facing the Morea, from which it is separated by a channel about

eight or ten miles wide. The town and island of Ægina were governed by

a Vaivode, who had a few Turkish soldiers, and was inhabited chiefly

by fishermen and small traders. The surrounding country is hilly, with

fertile valleys producing olives, vines, and grain, and beans of several

kinds; and there are a few sheep and goats.

The next morning, the 26th March, I rose early and examined the port,

which consisted of two artificial harbours, formed by two piers, each

carried out from the shore, enclosing a considerable space of water, with

a depth of about 10 or 12 feet. This was made by the ancients, and Mr.

Cockerell gave me a plan of it, which is inserted in my work on ‘British

and Foreign Harbours.’ It was then blowing very hard north-west and

contrary; however, soon after noon the wind abated, when we embarked, and

arrived at the little port or bay of Pilascro, the ancient Epidauros, on

the opposite shore of the Morea, about five o’clock in the afternoon.

Here we disembarked, and walked round the place, and could only

discover what appeared to be the remains of a bath, and some mutilated

figures near it; and a little farther some similar remains, but nothing

remarkable; so that it would require considerable time to make anything

out of them. In Sir W. Gell’s ‘Itinerary of the Morea’ what is there is

well described.

We slept on board. On the 27th we rose at daylight, and found that the

baggage horses, Greek servants, and an excellent Arabian horse, which

I bought at Athens, and which I sent round by land, had arrived at

Epidauros. Having disembarked our baggage and discharged the vessel,

we loaded the baggage on the horses, after which we started for Napoli

di Romania, a small town situated on the Gulf of Argos, not many miles

distant from Epidauros, through an undulating, picturesque, and rich

country. On account of the guide taking the wrong road, we were obliged

to stop at the village of Tero, where there are a considerable number of

Roman and Greek remains.

On Friday, 28th March, we started at half-past six, and at noon reached

the picturesque fortress of Napoli di Romania, on the east side of the

Gulf of Argos, situated on a lofty hill commanding the entrance to

the gulf. The miserable town lay beneath the citadel, which, as well

as the town itself, was strongly fortified according to the Venetian

system, and was a place of considerable strength, garrisoned by a set

of bigoted Turkish troops, imbued with a thorough hatred of Christians,

so that I was strongly advised not to stop there. There was, however,

no alternative, as there was no other place near. I therefore rode into

the town, and took up my quarters at the English Vice-Consul’s, who

was a Greek. Immediately after my arrival I went out, and tried to get

into the citadel, in order to have a view of the town and surrounding

country, which was very fine, but the Turks refused me admittance in the

most insolent manner, and told me to get about my business as quickly as

possible. I found that it was of no use to attempt to proceed farther,

and returned at once to the town, and after having examined it, and found

nothing worthy of notice, returned to my lodgings. Here the Vice-Consul

came to me in a great fright, and said that the Turks had been much

annoyed at my arrival, and that I must depart directly; strongly urging

me to do so, as he said that he could not protect me, and if I stayed

he would not be responsible for the consequences. I replied that as it

was night it was too late to depart then, but that I would do so the

next morning at daybreak. To this he consented. I accordingly supped,

and went to bed. On the following morning my servant and myself were

in the saddle before daybreak, and were at the gates of the fortress

waiting for them to be opened. In Turkish fortresses at that day it was

the custom to make every foreigner and Greek dismount and walk over the

drawbridge. I thought that this was degrading, and determined not to do

it. As soon, therefore, as the gates were opened, and the drawbridge let

down, I started off at a rapid pace, and told Demetrius to follow me.

In passing the Turkish guard, consisting of three or four badly-armed

men, they called out to me to stop, which I disregarded, and galloped

off as fast as I could. I had scarcely proceeded a couple of hundred

yards when, turning round, I saw Demetrius in the hands of the Turks,

who were belabouring him with sticks, and trying to pull him off his

horse. He kicked and fought with all his might. I immediately rode back

with a loaded pistol in each hand, and dashed amongst the Turks, who

soon released my man, and spurring our horses we galloped off as hard as

possible, never pulling rein for a full mile, and then, finding we were

not followed, stopped and joined our men and baggage, whom I had left

behind in a small Greek house before I entered Nauplia the preceding

evening. Thus I got happily out of this affair, which might have been

rather serious; but I always found the best way was to show a bold front

to the Turks, and not allow them to insult you. After a little halt

we started again, and stopped to examine the ruins of the ancient city

of Tiryns, said to have been built by the Cyclopeans. These are very

curious and interesting, and are supposed to be the oldest specimens of

architecture in Greece. They are constructed of rough, only partially

hewn blocks of stone, rudely put together without cement. We have here

an attempt to construct a Gothic arch; but the stones are not radiated,

the beds being flat, each stone projecting over another until they meet

in the centre. These ruins are extensive, covering a surface of several

acres. They are well described and represented in Gell’s ‘Itinerary.’

From Tiryns I proceeded to Mycene, about 12 miles farther northward.

These ruins are also very extensive, and once formed the capital of

Agamemnon, with a small surrounding territory. The chief building worthy

of remark is the Hall of Atreus. This, of the kind, is a fine work,

constructed of solid masonry, of large blocks of stone well squared, and

put together without cement. The hall is circular, and 47 feet 6 inches

in diameter in the inside, and 42 feet 6 inches high, the top covered by

a single stone, thus forming a Gothic arch inside of squared blocks of

stone, the beds being horizontal, and the stones projecting over each

other in the inside until they meet in the centre, the angles of the

projecting stones in the inside being cut off and dressed smoothly on the

face, so that, when viewing it from within, the whole has the appearance

of a nicely-constructed dome, lighted from the top by a circular opening.

The side walls are 18 feet 6 inches at bottom, diminishing to 18 inches

at top. It is a remarkable work, and may be considered as one of the

earliest specimens of the arch, and a considerable improvement upon that

of Tiryns. The entrance to the hall is by a massive doorway, the sides

being formed of single stones well dressed, and the top of another

single block equally well prepared; this is surmounted by another large

block, upon which is sculptured in bold relief two lions rampant. The

approach to the doorway is between two solid walls of masonry, forming

a passage open to the air. This being near the summit of a hill, there

is a fine view from it over the plain, or rather valley, beneath, backed

by the ruins of the ancient city of Argos and its Acropolis, on the Gulf

of Nauplia, and on the west by a fine range of mountains, the highest of

which towers prominently above the rest, standing far above the level of

the Mediterranean.

After having measured the Hall of Atreus, and having made a sketch of

the surrounding country, during which my people had managed to cook an

excellent dinner in the open air, I dined, and started about 4 P.M., and

reached Argos at 5 P.M. The ruins of the ancient city contain little

worthy of remark, and the modern one is a miserable village, seated

amongst the ruins. The rich country was not half cultivated, merely

dotted here and there with a few vineyards and olive woods. Argos is

now about a mile from the head of the Gulf of Nauplia, but it is very

probable that in former times the sea washed the walls of the ancient

city; the intervening space has been filled up by alluvial deposit, and

it is now little better than a marsh.

I slept at the caravanserai, and next morning started for the Temple

of Jupiter at Nemea, passing through a rich valley with vines, grain,

and olives, and the village of Agioz Georgious, near which is a convent

on a hill. These convents are not the seats of learning, for the monks

are lazy and ignorant; but they form comfortable resting-places for

travellers who pay well for their accommodation. The ruins of the Temple

of Jupiter, well described by Gell, consist only of three columns of an

indifferent style of Doric.

Having returned to Argos to sleep, on Sunday, May 1, I arose early. The

morning was wet and stormy, and I was detained by the muleteer demanding

extra pay for the horses, which, however, the Bey decided against him.

We accordingly started about seven, and soon after began to ascend the

Pass through the mountains, having on the left the miserable village

Lerna, seated on the swampy shore of the gulf, anciently called Hydra;

and hence was derived the Lernean hydra or monster, celebrated by Virgil.

This was no doubt nothing more than the malaria fever personified,

which prevails severely in this district. In fact, the whole of this

country had a wretched, forlorn, deserted appearance. The population was

scanty, oppressed by poverty, misery, and tyranny, their countenances

for the most part pale and haggard, expressing despair and dejection, to

extricate themselves from which appeared hopeless; whilst the surrounding

country, naturally fertile, aided by the influence of a genial climate,

only required the industry of man to make it yield the richest reward.

Nothing was done; all lay dead and desolate. Nature seemed to have done

everything for man, while man had in everything neglected nature; a not

uncommon occurrence, and one which, as far as my experience goes, has

produced more misery than almost anything else.

We began to ascend the Pass over a rude causeway, about eight or ten

feet wide, in many places cut up into deep gullies by the torrents; the

ascent steep, rugged, and difficult, fit only for mules and pack-horses.

The evening was fine, however, the air fresh and invigorating, and the

scenery beautiful, which raised my spirits after the melancholy caused

by the depressing influence of the sight of so much desolation. Having

got to the summit of the Pass, we had a magnificent view on both sides.

Looking back, we had the Gulf of Nauplia, with the picturesque fortress

at the entrance, the plain of Argos and its ruins, also those of Mycene

and Tiryns, backed by a rugged outline of hills; on the west the fertile

plain, with its capital Tripolitza, and the ruins of Mantinea, backed by

a bold line of hills, with the magnificent Taygetus rising 7000 feet,

flanked on both sides by the blue waters of the Mediterranean. We reached

Tripolitza just after dark, and, as usual, put up at the best Greek

house where we could find admittance; and as I had a good sumpter mule,

Demetrius soon prepared a capital supper, which I enjoyed much after a

hard-working day of nineteen hours, during which I had been fourteen

hours in the saddle. I slept soundly, notwithstanding the attacks of

numerous fleas, to which by this time I had become tolerably well

accustomed.

Tripolitza, although the capital of the Morea, was but a poor place, with

about 4000 inhabitants, and the Turkish garrison of about 300 men. The

Governor’s palace was merely an assemblage of some low, insignificant

buildings enclosed within a wall. The rest of the town consisted of

irregular, crooked, narrow, dirty streets, some of them hardly wide

enough for a carriage, for which, indeed, there was no need, and there

were none; with a place or square near the centre, surrounded by cafés,

where the Turks and better class of natives, such as they were, sat idly

smoking their long pipes and nargillas with that stupid indifference

and repose which characterized them, perfectly regardless of any but

themselves, and quite unconscious and indifferent to the misery around

them. There were one or two bazaars, where all the business of the place

was transacted; in these cloths, furs, shawls, leather articles, such as

saddles, bridles, &c., silks, arms, pipes, tobacco, and provisions of

all kinds, were sold, but scarcely any articles of European manufacture.

The town was surrounded by a crenellated wall, unfit for artillery, and

incapable of resistance to European troops; and there were two or three

mosques, with their minarets rising above the mass of insignificant

buildings, and a few Greek churches, the interiors of which were

decorated with rude and almost grotesque representations of saints. These

edifices, towering above the rest, had a picturesque and imposing effect

when viewed from a distance, but this vanished the moment you drew near

and entered, when little else but dirt and misery met the eye.

The following day after my arrival I walked about the town, amusing

myself with the little which was to be seen; and the next day I rode,

accompanied by my servant Demetrius, to the ruins of the ancient

Mantinea, formerly a city of considerable importance, and well fortified

according to the style of that period. It was surrounded by a strong

lofty stone wall, about 25 feet high, flanked at intervals by circular

turrets, and in front of each entrance there was a kind of lunette

or advanced work to protect it, so that an enemy, in endeavouring to

enter, was exposed to flank attacks from the garrison. These walls were

surrounded by a wide ditch filled with water, and the total surface

enclosed by them is considerable. The ruins within consist of the remains

of a hippodrome, theatre, and other private and public buildings,

concerning which, from their scattered and dilapidated condition, it

was difficult to define anything accurately. In the neighbourhood of

Tripolitza there are numerous kalavatha, or subterranean conduits for

carrying off the water for drainage, irrigation, and supplying the

inhabitants. The river flowing through the plain, if such it can be

called, is an insignificant stream; it is connected with the subterranean

conduits described above. The surrounding country was tolerably

cultivated, and produced corn, pulse, oil, and wine, both red and white.

This wine was made in a very rough way, and, in order to preserve it,

was mixed with a certain quantity of turpentine, which gave it a strong

bitter flavour, by no means agreeable at first; and until you become

accustomed to it, you cannot drink it with any degree of relish, but by

degrees you like it, and it is very wholesome.

Whilst at Tripolitza I became acquainted with the late Mr. Hodgets Foley,

afterwards M.P. for Droitwich, a very amiable, good-natured person. As

an instance of Turkish civility, Mr. Foley was taking his usual ride in

the evening, accompanied by his servant, and on his way met with a party

of the delhi, or cavalry, playing at football, a game in which they much

delighted. As they passed he civilly pulled up to get out of their way,

when two or three of them at once, without the smallest provocation,

attacked him, laid hold of his horse, and otherwise maltreated him, and

he with some difficulty extricated himself from their hands, and rode

back to Tripolitza as quickly as possible, to lay his complaint before

our Vice-Consul, who was a Greek. He made his complaint to the Governor,

who promised redress, but (Turkish fashion) never gave it. Foley’s

mistake was this, that instead of getting out of the way, he should have

ridden right into the midst of them, laying about him on both sides with

his whip as hard as possible; then they would have feared and respected

him, and have never offered him any violence.

After having seen all that was worthy of attention in the town and

neighbourhood, I started for Misitra, the site of the ancient Sparta,

some miles from Tripolitza, the route to which lay through the plain.

We reached Misitra, a miserable village, towards evening, and obtained

tolerable quarters in a respectable Greek house, where we were received

very kindly, and most hospitably entertained, which of course I paid for

by a handsome present. I sat down to supper with the family, consisting

of the husband, his handsome wife, daughter, and son, before a low table,

placed upon the floor; the dishes consisted of soup, a species of stewed

mutton, vegetables, and cakes and fruits. After dinner the servant came

round with a basin and ewer, and poured water over our hands, and then

presented a napkin to wipe them: we next adjourned to another room,

where coffee and pipes were served, and the daughter sung very prettily

some Greek airs, accompanied by the mandoline; and thus I passed a very

agreeable evening.

The following morning I rose early and proceeded to the ruins of ancient

Sparta, some miles distant. Here nothing is to be seen of this ancient

celebrated city, but some mounds, fragments of walls and buildings, the

extent and designation of which it is extremely difficult to make out.

It was in vain, therefore, to attempt more, and so I next determined to

prosecute my journey into Maina, said to be inhabited by the descendants

of the Spartans. This was considered at that time to be a journey of

considerable difficulty and danger, and, indeed, impracticable, on

account of the lawlessness of the natives, who were said to be nothing

more than a set of pirates and robbers, at war with the whole world and

each other. Lord Byron wished to go there, but was dissuaded from it,

although no person ever accused his lordship of want of courage. My

janissary advised me not to make the journey, and said that he would not

accompany me, as we should all be murdered; and added that the Turks, who

had frequently endeavoured to conquer the country both by land and by

sea, had always failed. The more they tried to dissuade me from going,

the more I was determined to do it, being stimulated also by doing that

which few persons would attempt; therefore I discharged my janissaries

and extra horses and servants, and sent them to meet me at Calamata, the

other side of the peninsula, and decided to undertake the journey with

Demetrius alone, who was well acquainted with one of the captains or

chiefs of the district of Marathonesi, and who was anxious to go himself,

and said that the difficulties had been greatly exaggerated, and that

we should get through very well. I resolved, therefore, to start on the

following morning.

Before proceeding farther I will endeavour to describe the country which

we were about to visit. The district of Maina is situated at the southern

extremity of the Morea; it is bounded on the north by Mount Taygetus, and

its subsidiary range of mountains, and by Cape Matapan on the south, so

that it forms a triangle, jutting out into the Mediterranean; and on the

east and west sides it is bordered by that sea, so that on all sides,

except on the north, it is surrounded by water. As to the aborigines,

it is difficult to find any well-authenticated account; it is supposed

that they at one time formed part of the Spartan republic. After the

conquest of the Greeks by the Romans, and subsequently by the Turks,

they took refuge here, and being of a warlike and restless temperament,

disdained all subjection to any one chief, but divided themselves into

separate communities, and chose their chief for the time, who was the

most able and successful warrior amongst them. These communities or

tribes were wholly independent, and were frequently at war with each

other, but always united to defend themselves against the common enemy,

and they drove out the Turks, who frequently, but in vain, attempted to

bring them under subjection, and latterly had quite given it up. Such

was the state of the country when I visited it. The whole population was

considered to be about 20,000, divided into capitanates or beylichs, with

a supreme chief, to whom, however, the allegiance was merely nominal,

and only accorded when the whole country was invaded by a common enemy.

On other occasions, each tribe or community made war upon the others

upon the least provocation, or upon the surrounding countries and seas

as it suited them; in fact, they were a horde of pirates, at war with

all mankind, who treated them accordingly. It was no uncommon event at

that day for a British ship of war to bombard its seaports and to land a

strong body of men to chastise the natives whenever they could lay hold

of them; but as the coast is intersected with numerous creeks, backed

by innumerable inaccessible mountain fortresses, to which they escaped

when overpowered, it was almost impossible to root them out. Every petty

chief had a stronghold or fortress, where he lived with his most intimate

followers. In some cases this fortress was surrounded by a strong

loop-holed wall, to which no access was given except by a drawbridge or

ladder, which could be drawn up when attacked; and the access to the

castle within was the same. In others it was a simple square or round

tower, with the entrance about 10 feet above the ground, approachable

only by a ladder, which could be removed at pleasure, and was always

drawn up at night. The country for the most part was uncultivated, and

although extremely fertile, capable of producing corn, wine, oil, fruit,

and silk in abundance, served little more than to supply the deficiency

when booty was scarce. Such was the general state of Maina, which I

determined to visit. We accordingly left our heavy baggage behind, and I

started early in the morning, accompanied by Demetrius and one baggage

horse. Shortly after leaving Misitra we crossed the frontier, came to a

wild, desolate country with nothing but brushwood, occasionally mixed

with lofty valonia trees, the bark and fruit of which form a valuable

article of export.

At midday we halted as usual to give our horses, as well as ourselves,

rest and refreshment; and the ever-active Demetrius, in a comparatively

short time, provided us with a tolerable dinner, and after a couple

of hours’ rest started again on our journey, and passing through the

same kind of wild country we reached the sea-shore and the ruins of the

ancient Marathonesi, the greatest portion of which had been submerged by

an earthquake, and we could distinctly discern the buildings through the

clear water. A few miles farther we reached the neat little seaport town,

the modern Marathonesi, the capital of the tribe of which Demetrius’s

friend was the chief. In the course of our day’s journey we were not

a little inspired and gratified that we had not been attacked or even

molested, notwithstanding the dismal accounts and forebodings which had

been made to us. It is true we met a few rough, straggling, armed fellows

on the way, and they looked at us with a fierce, independent scowl, but

seeing us well armed and prepared to meet them, passed on without further

remark.

We arrived, soon after sunset, at the house of the chief, and were most

kindly received by him, and he showed us into some clean comfortable

bedrooms, furnished, to my surprise, in the French fashion. The fact is,

the chief was a great merchant and trader with the Ionian Islands, Italy,

and France, and possessed considerable wealth, and was far more civilized

than the rest of his countrymen. He was a fine handsome courteous

young man, about twenty-eight, of the middle size, and extremely

well-proportioned, sinewy, active, and vigorous. His countenance was

oval, of the true Greek form, with dark piercing eyes, black eyebrows

and lashes, well-defined nose, small mouth, with compressed lips, and

beautiful white teeth; with long moustaches, curling several inches below

his chin, and his head covered with a profusion of black hair hanging

down in natural ringlets; he wore no beard, his chin being closely

shaven; in fact, he was a very dashing personage. He gave us an excellent

supper, and entertained us with numerous anecdotes and accounts of the

country and its inhabitants; he asked me how I could think of venturing

among such a lawless people, whom no stranger ever visited, and strongly

recommended me to go back, as after having learned that I proposed to

cross the country and return by the opposite coast, he said the journey

would be attended with considerable danger, and he feared that he could

not protect me. Both Demetrius, who sat at table with us, and myself told

him that it would be disgraceful to go back, and if he would furnish us

with an escort of some of his followers they should be properly paid,

and we had no doubt but that we should get through our journey without

difficulty. Finding that we were determined to proceed, he opposed our

intentions no more, but said he would do the best he could for us. Being

rather tired with our day’s ride, we went to bed and slept soundly until

soon after sunrise the next morning, when we were up and stirring. Our

friend, the chief, told me that he would provide me with an escort of

twenty-five well-armed men, whom I might safely rely upon. We accordingly

breakfasted, and went to look over the town, which was the neatest and

cleanest I had seen in Greece. There were several vessels taking in and

delivering their cargoes; in fact, the little town was bustling with

activity and industry. All my escort, consisting of five-and-twenty

stout, active, wiry fellows, were mustered outside of the town waiting

for me, and a fierce, rough, savage-looking set they were, armed to the

teeth with guns, pistols, and yatagans, clad a good deal like Albanians,

with kilts, jackets, hose, and red skull-caps, with long moustaches,

close-shaven chins, and long hair falling down their shoulders. Most of

them had several scars from wounds received in their various fights.

Before starting I examined their arms to see if they were properly loaded

and flinted, as it frequently happened that they were in bad order and

would not go off when they pulled the trigger, and often burst, so that

they did more harm to themselves than to their enemies. I found the arms,

however, better than I expected, and giving some of them fresh flints

and good powder and ball, they were properly loaded. I then said a few

words of encouragement, which their chief, who was with me, interpreted,

and told them to behave like men, and take care of me, and they would be

properly paid. The men answered one and all, that there was no fear but

that they would take good care of the English Milord, as they called me,

and off we started in high spirits for the opposite side of the peninsula.

The view from Marathonesi was extremely beautiful. On the north the noble

Mount Taygetus, with its numerous peaks, deeply-indented gorges, ravines,

and its sides covered densely with woods, rose towering above the clouds.

At its base there was a torrent running east and west through a valley

bordered by precipitous cliffs towards the sea. On the south side of the

torrent was a narrow road, and the perpendicular cliff on the south side

of the road was full of caverns admirably adapted for the concealment

of brigands, pirates, and bad characters of all kinds, of which so many

abounded in the country. We had to pass through this gorge, and at

the time there was a great number of these vagabonds concealed in the

caves, waiting to intercept the merchants going backwards and forwards

to and from Marathonesi. I was warned of this, and determined to drive

these rascals, if there were any, out of the caverns before we passed.

I accordingly told about eight or ten of the most active of my escort

to cross the river and climb the base of the hill, and to fire into the

caves, whilst I and the main body proceeded along the road; and as we

searched each cave as we advanced, if any robbers were concealed in them,

they could not escape; and if they attempted to do so, they were exposed

to two fires. We were thus proceeding cautiously through the Pass, and

had scarcely well entered when my men on the opposite side of the valley

commenced firing into the caverns, and at first they were sharply replied

to by the concealed bandits. This did not last long, for the robbers,

who were not equal to us in numbers, found that they were out-manœuvred,

and if they remained in the caves must all be taken, and they expected

little mercy from their captors. They therefore left the caves, and fled

as fast as possible, upon seeing which my people on both sides of the

torrent followed them with equal speed, firing at random whilst they

went forward. This rude and desultory mode of fighting was fortunately

attended with no slaughter, although several flesh wounds occurred. My

party being the stronger, we overtook the brigands, and made three or

four prisoners. At this my people were delighted, and at the same time

exasperated against them, and wished to shoot them. I at once interposed,

but found that my men were so excited with the fight and subsequent

pursuit, that it was extremely difficult to control them. However, after

a little while I pacified them by saying that it was unmanly and unworthy

to kill an enemy after he had surrendered. This did not seem to have much

impression on them, as they considered the conquered their lawful prize,

and that they might do what they liked with them. I ultimately quieted

them by saying that I would pay a good sum per head for each of the four

taken, which they willingly accepted, fearing that if they refused I

should report them to their chief. I therefore released the captives,

who upon their knees thanked me for their lives. Having reached the end

of the Pass, and the road being tolerably clear to the end of the day’s

journey, I dismissed my escort with about ten shillings each, besides

a capital dinner, and a good sum for the captives, with which they

were pleased, and left me with many thanks and cheers, expressed very

cordially in their peculiar and rough manner.

Having parted with my escort, I rode leisurely forward with Demetrius

and the baggage horse, until we reached the castle of a capitano, to

whom I had a letter of introduction from my excellent friend the Captain

of Marathonesi. On our arrival, which was just as the sun was setting,

we found the chief surrounded by numerous followers seated on stone

benches fixed to the gate of the outer wall by which the castle was

surrounded. The old chief and his attendants were quietly enjoying their

pipes and coffee, whilst the cowherds were driving in the cattle for

the night, just as described in Homer. The chief and his suite arose to

meet me as I advanced and presented my letter of introduction, which he

received with much dignity, and welcomed me most kindly to his castle,

and certainly a wild, rough place it was. Within the outer wall was

placed the keep or castle, consisting of a great square tower massively

built, containing a few rough apartments with little or no furniture

except a few mattresses and cushions, which were removed during the day.

The space between the main tower or residence was filled with numerous

outhouses and sheds for the cattle and servants and guards of the chief.

After a short conversation we adjourned to the inner castle, and were

shown into the principal room, about 30 feet square, with divers rows

of low cushions placed all round against the walls. Directly after our

arrival, a low table was brought in, and the chief, his attendants,

myself, and servant Demetrius, to the number of about a dozen, sat down

cross-legged to supper, which was immediately served. This consisted of

stewed mutton, with vegetables, roast game, sweets, and fruits, which

for the most part we ate with our fingers. Before each guest was placed

a bottle full of wine, but there were no glasses on the table, so that

one had no alternative but to drink out of the bottle, which was refilled

several times with good red wine. After dinner we took to our pipes and

coffee, during which we had a good deal of agreeable conversation, which

was chiefly devoted to inquiries about England, in which they appeared to

take the greatest interest. After having well supped, and having smoked

and conversed as long as we felt it agreeable, one by one we dropped

off to sleep upon our mattresses, armed, and without undressing, ready

for a surprise at any moment. I soon fell asleep, and awoke at daybreak

thoroughly refreshed. We all got up, shook ourselves, washed, and took

coffee and a pipe, and then strolled about till breakfast. This castle

is situated on a fine bay on the sea-shore, near the base of Taygetus.

Outside the walls of the castle there is a straggling village. Besides

fishing-boats, there were several others of a more suspicious character,

being sharply built, and having the appearance of pirates. We got a

capital breakfast with the old chief; afterwards rowed in the bay; and

then taking a hearty farewell of my worthy host, started for Kitriai,

the castle of the Bey, who was the nominal chief of the whole of Maina.

We reached Kitriai a little before sunset, and were most kindly received

by the Bey, a fine old warrior, about 5 feet 10 inches high, well built,

square, and muscular, with an open, well-developed Greek countenance,

thick moustache, and flowing white beard. There was something mild and

gentlemanlike in his manner, very different to any other we had met. We

were shown to our apartments, which were very comfortable, overlooking

the sea and surrounding coasts. I spent the next day very agreeably in

looking about the adjacent country, which was very pretty, but not so

wild and grand as that nearer to Taygetus. Besides the Bey, there were

several of his counsellors, his secretary, and one or two Greek priests,

all accomplished persons, who spoke the Greek in its purity, much to my

gratification and instruction. The town of Kitriai is about the size of

Marathonesi, but not nearly so neat and clean, neither had it so much

trade.

On the morning after, we started at daybreak, and proceeded along the

coast to Calamata. This town ranked about the third in the Morea, and

was then doing a good trade; but, like all the towns in the Morea, was

miserable and dirty, with narrow streets, low buildings, from one to two

stories high, two or three insignificant mosques and Greek churches, and

a square near the centre, with several cafés, filled, as usual, with idle

Turks and Albanians, smoking their pipes and sipping coffee and sherbet,

whilst numerous Greek merchants and Jews were transacting their business.

The bazaars were close by, and crowded with purchasers. The harbour was

full of vessels and sailors of various kinds--Hydriote Greeks (amongst

the best sailors on the Mediterranean), Austrian, French, and a few

English vessels, besides a number of boats called caiques, and fishing

vessels, altogether a busy scene. I took up my quarters at a Greek house,

as rough and dirty as usual, and found my heavy baggage, servants, and

janissary whom I had sent from Misitra.