with screws as shown in the enlarged detail view. This slide, if made
with care, is a good one. The center piece should be firmly fastened to
the post rest with long screws. The screws that fasten into the top
should be inserted from below through counter-bored holes as shown.
Miter the rails at the corners and glue them to the top. Blocks can be
used on the inside if desired, which will make a much stronger
construction. Screw the two brackets to the top as shown. These help to
support the table when it is extended.
When complete the table should be carefully gone over with fine
sandpaper, and all glue and rough spots removed. Apply stain of the
desired color. This can be any one of the many mission stains supplied
by the trade for this purpose.
AN OAK-BOUND CEDAR CHEST
This cedar chest for storing unused bedding or furs is not a difficult
thing to make and when made, the hard oak binding takes the wear and
protects the softer cedar so that the chest ought to serve several
generations. Order the stock as follows:
CEDAR
2 top and bottom pieces, 7/8 by 16-1/2 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 sides, 7/8 by 18-7/8 by 34-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 ends, 7/8 by 18-7/8 by 14-3/4 in., S-2-S.
OAK
2 overhanging top pieces, 1 by 1 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 overhanging top pieces, 1 by 1 by 18-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 lock and hinge rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 lock and hinge rails, 1 by 2-1/2 by 18-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 base pieces, 1 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 base pieces, 1 by 3-1/4 by 18-1/2 in., S-2-S.
[Illustration: Details of Cedar Chest]
Specify thoroughly seasoned Tennessee red cedar and plain sawed white
oak and have the different pieces mill-planed and sandpapered as
indicated in the stock-bill. This bill allows 1/2 in. extra on the
length and the width of each piece for "squaring up" of all pieces
except those marked to be surfaced on four sides.
Begin by squaring the sides and ends to size. Probably the best joint
for the corners is the dovetail. If the worker is not experienced in
woodworking, some of the more simple joints will do. It will be noted
that the drawing and stock-bill call for the simplest form of joint,
that in which the sides of the chest lap over the end. For the dovetail
joint it will be necessary to add 2 in. more to the length of the end
pieces, making them 16-3/4 in. each in the rough.
Having got the sides and ends ready, fasten them together. The
perspective shows the sides fastened to the ends with ornamental headed
nails. Common nails are first used, being equally spaced, and the
ornamental heads are afterwards placed so as to cover their heads.
Next square the bottom and nail it to the parts just assembled. Square
the top to the same size.
The base stuff is squared on one edge only. The second edge--the upper
one--is to be beveled or sloped 1/8 in. to facilitate dusting and for
appearance sake. Fit these base pieces to place, mitering the joints.
Before fastening the parts to the chest proper, gauge a line 3/4 in.
from the lower edge and to a point 4-1/2 in. from each end, cut out to
this line and shape the base as shown in the drawing. Use finishing
nails for fastening the base to the chest. The heads should be "set" so
they may be covered later with a putty colored to match the finish.
In a similar manner plane up, cut and fit the back and hinge rails.
These rails should be kept a "scant" 1/8 in. below the top edges of the
chest proper. The overhang of the lid fits down over in such a way as to
form a dust-proof joint between lid and chest proper.
The overhang of the lid of 1 in. by 1-in. stock may next be mitered,
fitted and nailed to the lid. Thoroughly sandpaper all parts not so
treated and finish as follows: Put on all the oak pieces, two coats of
natural paste filler. This is best done before they are fastened in
place. Directions will be found on the cans in which the filler is kept.
The red of the cedar may be heightened by applying a mahogany stain made
of Bismark brown aniline and boiling water, in the proportion of 3 qt.
of water to 1 oz. of aniline. If applied hot the stain will enter the
wood better. When dry, sandpaper lightly with No. 00 paper, both this
and the oak-filled pieces.
Fasten the oak pieces in place and give the whole exterior a very thin
coat of shellac. After this has hardened, apply two coats of wax. Wax
comes in paste form and is to be applied with a cloth very sparingly.
Allow it to stand five or ten minutes then rub briskly with a soft dry
cloth to polish. The first coat is allowed to stand 24 hours before the
second is applied in a similar manner.
Another finish, known as an egg-shell gloss shellac finish, is obtained
by omitting the wax and instead applying from two to five more coats of
shellac. Allow each coat 24 hours in which to harden, and rub each
hardened coat to a smooth finish, using curled hair, or fine steel
wool, or fine oiled sandpaper, before applying the next.
[Illustration: Cedar Chest Complete]
The metal reinforcements for the corners can be bought at a hardware
store, as can the lock, hinges, and handles. These parts are applied in
the usual manner--butt hinges being used.
If well made, the chest is practically airtight. The interior is all of
red cedar, while the effect of the exterior in combining the light oak
and the red cedar is striking.
A TOOL FOR MAKING MORTISES
In the construction of mission furniture where mortise joints are mostly
used, those who cannot have access to a mortising machine will find the
following method of great assistance in obtaining a true mortise, which
is necessary in work of this kind.
[Illustration: Boring Holes for Tenons]
Take a block of wood, A, the exact thickness of the piece B to be
mortised, and with an auger bore a hole, the same size as the width of
the mortise to be made, exactly parallel to the sides of the block. This
can best be done on a drill press or a wood boring machine. If no
machine is available, great care should be taken in boring by hand, to
get the hole as nearly true as possible. Then nail a cleat, C, on the
side of the block, A, and let it extend down on piece B. Use a clamp to
hold the block in place while boring out the mortise. By changing the
position of the block and boring a number of holes, any length of
mortise can be made. The holes should afterwards be squared up with a
chisel.
A DRESSER FOR CHILD'S PLAYROOM
This dresser can be made of two kinds of wood as marked on the drawing
or it can be made all of one kind. The original dresser was made of oak
and walnut and was finished natural, the contrast between the light and
dark woods adding much to the value of the piece in the eyes of the
little ones. Have all surfaces that will show well sandpapered at the
mill. The following is a list of the material wanted:
4 oak posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
3 walnut drawer fronts, 3/4 by 5 by 17 in., S-2-S.
6 yellow poplar drawer sides, 3/8 by 5 by 12 in., S-2-S.
3 yellow poplar backs, 3/8 by 4-1/2 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
3 yellow poplar bottoms, 3/8 by 12 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 oak front stretchers, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 17-1/2 in., S-4-S.
4 oak side rails, 7/8 by 2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
2 walnut side panels, 1/4 by 11 by 14-1/2 in., S-2-S.
8 oak drawer slides, 7/8 by 2 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
6 oak drawer guides, 1/2 by 3/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 oak back stretchers, 7/8 by 2 by 17-1/2 in., S-2-S.
1 oak top, 5/8 by 14 by 20-1/2 in., S-2-S.
3 sq. ft. of 3/8 in. matched yellow pine ceiling for back.
MIRROR SUPPORT
1 walnut piece, 7/8 by 1-3/4 by 20-1/2 in., S-2-S.
1 walnut piece, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-2-S.
1 oak piece, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 oak pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-2-S.
1 walnut bracket piece, 7/8 by 1-1/4 by 5 in., S-2-S.
MIRROR FRAME PARTS
2 walnut pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 12-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 walnut pieces, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 10-1/2 in., S-2-S.
2 oak pieces, 1/4 by 3/8 by 10 in., S-4-S.
2 oak pieces, 1/4 by 3/8 by 8 in., S-4-S.
1 back, 3/16 by 8 by 10 in., soft wood.
2 cleats, 3/8 by 1-1/4 by 8 in.
1 plain mirror glass, 7-1/2 by 9-1/2 in.
[Illustration: Details of Dresser]
Begin by planing the four posts to length. The lower ends should be
slightly beveled to prevent their slivering. Cut the mortises for the
tenons that are on the ends of the side rails. These rails are to be 7/8
by 2 in. and the tenons should be 3/8 by 1-1/4 in. wide by 3/4 in. long.
The posts should be rabbeted down to their middles to a depth of 3/8
in. so as to receive the 1/4-in. end panels. The end rails should be cut
to length and their tenons worked after one edge of each has been
rabbeted as were the posts.
[Illustration: Dresser Complete]
Having squared the panels to size, put the two ends of the dresser
together with glue. Next make the four frames which are to carry the
drawers. They should measure from outside to outside, in length 17-1/2
in.; in width, 12-1/2 in. It is intended that the short pieces shall be
tenoned into the long ones. When these frames are ready, cut out each
corner as indicated in the cross section drawing. Reduce to size the
drawer guides and fasten them in place. Dowel the frames to the ends of
the dresser in the places indicated on the drawing. Put on the back,
nailing into frames to the ends of the dresser in the places indicated
and fasten the top in place, putting screws into it from the under side.
The mirror frame and support should next be made. The drawing shows
quite clearly the parts and their relation to each other. All the slopes
are of 45 deg. Instead of rabbeting the mirror frame, a 1/4 by 3/8-in.
fillet of oak is nailed around to form the recess, the walnut frame and
oak fillet making a pretty contrast. All nail holes are to be filled
with putty colored to match the finish. Wooden pins or round-head screws
are to be used to fasten the mirror frame to its support and should be
placed above center an inch or so.
The drawers are to be constructed in the usual manner. It is a good plan
to make the grooves 1/16 in. narrower than the stock is thick to insure
a fit, chamfering the under or back sides of the bottom and back if
necessary. Make the sides of the drawers of such a length that when the
drawer has been pushed in as far as it will go, the front will be
recessed about 1/4 in. behind the front crosspieces. Groove the inside
of the drawer front 3/16 in. to receive the bottom. The mirror should
not be placed until the wood has been finished.
[Illustration: DRAWER CONSTRUCTION]
Finish the wood natural, apply three coats of varnish. Rub the first two
with haircloth or curled hair and the last with pulverized pumice stone
and crude oil or raw linseed oil. This gives an egg-shell gloss. For a
dull finish, rub the varnish after it has become bone dry with
pulverized pumice stone and water, using a piece of rubbing felt. Rub
until the surface is smooth and even, and clean with a wet sponge or
chamois skin. If a polished finish is desired, rub first with pulverized
pumice stone and water, then with rotten stone and water. Finish with a
mixture of oil and a little pulverized rotten stone.
CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW
This home-made tool will be a great help in the construction of mission
furniture. With its use, tenons may be entirely cut with a saw,
discarding the use of a chisel and mallet. The device consists of a
convenient length of straight board, A, Fig. 1, wide enough to cover the
widest piece to be tenoned. A piece of board, B, is fastened to A with
brads or small screws. This board should have a thickness equal to the
piece to be cut from the side of the tenon. The piece C is fastened to A
and B with small cleats at their upper ends. The space between B and C
should be wide enough for the blade of a saw to run through easily, and
also long enough to take in the widest part of the saw blade. The tool
and piece to be tenoned are placed in a vise as shown in Fig. 2. The
width of the piece removed for the tenon may be varied by putting in
pieces of cardboard between the work, E, and the piece A, Fig. 1.
[Illustration: Sawing Tenons]
ARTS AND CRAFTS OIL LAMP
Electricity and gas are not always accessible in suburban or country
homes and the regular type of a mission lamp would be of little use. The
illustration shows an ordinary round wick kerosene lamp fitted out in
mission style.
[Illustration: Artistic Mission Style Oil Lamp]
[Illustration: Bronze Shade Holder]
A few modifications were made in the design of an expensive lamp to
simplify the construction. The lamp should have a tall chimney. The
dimensions given in the drawings, and the photograph, will explain
themselves. Many of the details can be worked up by the maker.
The body of the lamp is made of 1/2-in. oak and is provided with
openings as shown. The interior receptacle is very handy for holding a
match box, smoking articles, etc.
A piece of copper band, 1 in. wide, is fastened to the body with large
upholsterers' tacks, to give it a finished appearance. The base is 7/8
in. thick and in order to prevent tilting is provided with four square
feet, 1/4 in. thick. The top piece of the body is 1/2-in. oak, which is
provided with a hole large enough to receive the bowl of the lamp. If
such a lamp is not at hand, one can be purchased at a very reasonable
price.
The shade is made of oak frames set in with clouded art glass panels.
The different sections of the frames are fastened together with brass
screws and the glass is held in place by triangular cleats of oak. Be
sure and fit the shade with cardboard panels before ordering the glass.
The cardboard can be used as a pattern in cutting the glass, and the
glass will then fit without recutting, which is quite difficult.
The glass beaded fringe should be of suitable color to harmonize with
the finished lamp.
The shade is supported by four brackets cast in bronze from a wood
pattern (dimensions given) and finished by filing, buffing and
lacquering.
ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET
The china closet shown in the accompanying illustration is well
proportioned and of pleasing appearance. It can be made of any one of
the several furniture woods in common use, but quarter-sawed oak will be
found to give the most pleasing effect. The stock should be ordered from
the mill ready sawed to length, squared and sanded. In this way much
hard labor will be saved. The following pieces will be needed:
1 top, 1 by 19 by 38 in., S-1-S.
4 posts, 3/4 by 3 by 59 in., S-2-S.
4 side rails, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in., S-1-S.
4 end uprights, 1 by 2 by 48-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 end rails, 1 by 3 by 16 in., S-2-S.
2 lattice rails, 1 by 2 by 13 in., S-2-S.
1 top board, 3/4 by 3 by 36 in., S-1-S.
4 side door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 47 in., S-2-S.
6 cross rails, 3/4 by 2 by 12 in., S-2-S.
4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 16-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 13-1/2 in., S-2-S.
8 slats, 1/2 by 3/4 by 12-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 shelves, 5/8 by 16 by 32 in., S-1-S., poplar.
4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 55 in., soft wood.
4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 28 in., soft wood.
4 cleats, 1 in. sq. by 14 in., soft wood.
[Illustration: China Closet with Latticework Doors and Sides]
[Illustration: Details of China Closet]
Having this material on hand, start with the four posts, as they are all
alike. Clamp them together, being careful to have them of the right
length, and the ends square. Trim the bottom, as shown in the detail
drawing, and then lay out the mortises for the front and back rails.
These rails can now be laid out and the tenons cut to fit the mortises
in the posts. The back rails should, in addition, be rabbeted for the
back board as shown. The end rails are fastened to the posts by means of
screws through 1-in. square cleats, fastened on the inside of the posts
as shown in the section A-A. In all cases the screws should be run
through the cleats into the framing so the heads will not show. The end
rails should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the
glass.
The back board should have the corners rounded as shown and be fastened
to the top board with screws through from the bottom side. The top board
is then fastened to the top rail cleats in the same manner.
The doors are put together by means of tenons and mortises. The frames
should be rabbeted on the inside for the latticework and the glass.
Leaded glass can be used in place of this latticework, if it is desired.
Suitable hinges and a catch should be supplied. These can be purchased
at any hardware store.
The shelves should be cut out at the corners to fit around the cleats.
They rest on small blocks which are fastened to the cleats, or if
desired, small holes can be drilled and pins used instead.
The back is put on in the usual manner. A mirror can be put in without
much trouble if it is desired.
When putting the frame together, glue should be used on the joints, as
it makes them much stiffer. Be careful to get the frame together
perfectly square, or it will be hard to fit the doors and the glass.
When it is complete, go over the whole carefully with fine sandpaper and
remove all rough spots. Scrape all the surplus glue from about the
joints, as stain will not take when there is any glue. The closet can be
finished in any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for
this purpose.
[Illustration: Oak Bedstead Complete]
AN OAK BEDSTEAD
The accompanying sketches show an artistic design for a mission bed, so
simple in construction and design that most any one that has a few tools
and a knowledge of their use can make it. It is best made of
quarter-sawed oak, as this wood is the easiest to procure and work up
and looks well with any finish. If the stock is ordered from the mill
ready cut to length, squared and sanded, much of the hard labor will be
saved.
The following is a list of the material needed:
2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 50 in.
2 posts, 2-1/2 by 2-1/2 by 44 in.
2 end rails, 1 by 6 by 56 in.
2 side rails, 1 by 6 by 78 in.
5 end rails, 1 by 4 by 56 in.
3 end rails, 1 by 2 by 56 in.
8 vertical slats, 3/8 by 6 by 11-1/2 in.
10 vertical slats, 3/8 by 2 by 11-1/2 in.
2 cleats, 1 by 1 by 78 in.
5 slats, 3/4 by 3 by 55-1/2 in.
20 blocks, 1 by 1 by 3 in.
Square up the four posts in pairs and lay out the mortises as per
drawing. To do this, lay them side by side on a flat surface with the
ends square and mark them with a try-square. The tenons on the end rails
are laid out in the same manner as the posts. Four of the end rails
should be marked and mortises cut for the upright slats as shown in the
detail drawing. The tenons on the end rails are about 1 in. long, while
those on the slats can be 3/4 in. long. Fit all the parts together
before gluing to see that they fit square and tight. After the glue has
been applied clamp them together perfectly square and set them away to
dry. They should dry at least twenty-four hours before the clamps are
removed.
[Illustration: Details of Oak Bedstead]
While the ends are drying, the side rails can be made. These have a
1-in. square cleat screwed to the inner side for the slats to rest upon.
If springs are used, five slats will be sufficient. They can be placed
where the springs will rest upon them. After the position of the slats
has been located, nail small blocks at their sides to hold them in
place. For fastening the side rails to the posts, patent devices can be
purchased at a local hardware store. The posts will have to be mortised
to receive these, and care should be exercised to get them in the right
place.
When the bed is complete go over it carefully and scrape all the surplus
glue from about the joints, as the finish will not take where there is
any glue. Remove all rough spots with fine sandpaper; then apply the
stain you like best, which may be any of the many mission stains
supplied by the trade for this purpose. If this bed is well made and
finished, it will be an ornament to any home.
AN OAK FOOTSTOOL
The footstool shown in the illustration can be made from any kind of
wood, but when it is intended to be finished in mission style,
quarter-sawed oak will produce the best effect. The material needed will
be as follows:
1 top, 1 by 9-1/2 by 12 in., S-1-S.
2 legs, 3/4 by 8 by 12 in., S-2-S.
1 brace, 3/4 by 7 by 9 in., S-1-S.
Order these pieces cut to length, squared and sanded. A full-sized
layout of the front view should be made to get the correct bevels for
the legs and brace. The design of the legs can be varied to suit the
fancy of the maker. For such a design as shown draw one-half of it on
paper; fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the
outline by following the lines drawn. Trace around this pattern on the
wood, and saw out with a compass or keyhole saw. The sawed edges should
be smoothed and sandpapered.
[Illustration: Details of Footstool]
The perforation in the top board is made by first boring holes, then
trimming out the edges with a sharp chisel. Be sure to get the best side
of the board up.
[Illustration: Footstool Complete]
The legs are fastened to the top and to the braces with 1-3/4-in. wood
screws as shown in the detail drawing. After the stool is assembled, go
over it carefully with fine sandpaper and remove all rough spots before
applying the finish. This finish can be any one of the many different
kinds supplied by the trade for this purpose. If this stool is well made
and finished, it will be a useful and attractive article.
[Illustration: Table and Seat Decorated in Pyro-Carving]
A LIBRARY SET IN PYRO-CARVING
The multitude of indifferently executed small articles which followed
the introduction of pyrography is beginning to disappear, people are
considering the art more seriously and applying it to more dignified
uses. Pyro-carving is one of the new methods of decorating furniture
which is both beautiful and practical, two qualities which do not always
go together.
The library set illustrated consists of a table, 30 by 50 in., with two
benches, 14 in. wide of the same length. The supports are made of
selected white pine, which must be absolutely free from pitch. The pine
is soft enough to work easily with the point and stands wear much better
than basswood. The tops and braces are made of curly fir, all of the
material must be 2-in. lumber, which dresses to about an inch and a
half. All surfaces, except the faces of the supports, are given a
well-rubbed coat of oil with a little burnt umber, the stain to be
applied directly to the wood without a filler.
On the outside of the supports the design is drawn in with pencil, the
background is then cut out smoothly with a chisel to the depth of an
eighth of an inch, leaving the decoration in relief. It is then burned
deeply, the background in straight flat strokes, the outlines having the
effect of a sloping, dark edge. The shadows are burned in as deeply as
possible and the shading is put in with the flat of the point.
A wax or egg-shell oil varnish finish is most suitable for this set.
[Illustration: Grille for an Arch]
A GRILLE WITH PEDESTALS TO MATCH
The accompanying sketch shows something unique in a grille that adds to
the appearance of a home furnished in mission style. When it is stained
and finished to match the furniture, it gives a consummate tone that
would be difficult to obtain by any other means.
To get the best results it should be made to blend with the furniture
and the arch in which it is to fit, in both weight and style. This will
depend very much upon one's preference, and for this reason full
dimensions are not given. No difficulty will be experienced, however, by
anyone handy with tools, in making it.
The material should be quarter-sawed oak, which can be secured planed
and sanded at the mill. For the grille order 1 by 1-1/2-in. and 1/2 by
1-1/2-in. stock. The method of making the bars is shown in the detailed
sketch. The two end bars should be made of solid pieces, 3/4 by 1-1/2
in., with two rectangular slots mortised in each to receive the
supports. The supports should be just the right length to go in the
arch. To erect, slip the end bars on the supports, hold the grille in
place and fasten the bars to the sides of the arch with screws.
The size of the pedestals and the connecting pieces will depend upon the
size of the arch. These connecting pieces should be well mortised into
the post, and if you own your own home and intend the pedestals to
become a fixture, they should also be mortised into the sides of the
arch. If not, they may be fastened to the arch with blind screws. The
amount of material required will depend upon the size of the arch.
A LADY'S WRITING DESK