fine sandpaper before any finish is applied. It can be finished in any
one of the many mission stains which are supplied by the trade for this
purpose.
A LEATHER-COVERED FOOTSTOOL
The illustration shows a very handy footstool in mission style. The
following list of materials will be needed:
4 oak posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
2 sides, 3/4 by 3 by 12 in., soft wood.
2 ends, 3/4 by 3 by 8 in., soft wood.
1 bottom, 3/4 by 8 by 12 in., soft wood.
1 small box of 8 oz. tacks
2-1/2 doz. ornamental head nails.
1 piece of dark leather, 16 by 20 in.
1/2 lb. hair and a small portion of mission stain.
The posts are the only parts made of quarter-sawed oak, the other
parts, being covered with leather, can be made of any kind of soft wood.
Chamfer the top end of each post, and taper the lower ends as shown in
detail. When this is done the mortises can be cut for the sides as shown
in the post detail. When cutting the mortises and tenons take care to
make them fit perfectly, as there is nothing to brace the legs at the
bottom. The strength of the stool depends upon the joints. Make the
surface of the posts smooth by first using No. 1 sandpaper, then
finishing with No. 00.
[Illustration: Footstool Leather Covered]
The parts are now assembled. First clamp the ends together, using plenty
of glue on the joints, and drive some small nails on the inside of the
posts through the tenon ends. When the glue has set, the remaining sides
can be put together the same as the ends. Fit the bottom on the inside
about 1 in. from the top. This can be made fast by driving nails
through the sides and ends of the board. The finishing is done by
putting on the mission stain as the directions state on the can, then
wax the surface to get a dull gloss.
[Illustration: Details of Footstool]
The leather is now put on. Notch out the corners to fit around the
posts, but do not cut the ends off. Lap them under the cover. Before
nailing on the cover fix the hair evenly over the top, about 6 in. deep.
Draw the leather over the hair and fasten the edges with the 8-oz.
tacks. The ornamental nails are driven in last, as shown in the drawing,
to make a good appearance.
ARTS-CRAFTS MANTEL CLOCK
The clock shown in the illustration was designed especially for rooms
furnished in mission style. The clock, however, may be made of mahogany
or other wood to match the furniture in any room where it is to be
placed. If the mission effect is desired, an oxidized or copper sash
should be used. Movements can be bought at the salesroom of a clock
company. A movement should be selected that is wide enough from the
front to the back to allow the clock case to be made sufficiently deep
for standing without being easily upset.
[Illustration: Mantel Clock with Wood and Copper Front]
Quarter-sawed white oak is the best material for this clock, but any
other wood which works easily and takes a stain well may be used. Two
pieces, 3/8 in. thick, 6-1/2 in. wide, and 8-1/2 in. long, will be
needed for the front and back. One piece, 5 in. wide, 6 in. long, and
with a thickness sufficient for the clock movement, is needed for the
middle part. The thickness of this piece depends on the movement
secured.
After the front and back pieces are finished, and a piece of hammered
copper screwed on the front as shown in the drawing, the middle piece
must be made just thick enough to make the whole distance from the front
of the copper to the back of the clock equal to the depth of the
movement. Plane one edge on both front and back pieces. Lay out the
design and the centers for the circular holes from this planed edge.
Use a plane and chisel to cut the outside design. The hole can be bored
out with an expansive bit, or sawed out with a scroll saw, and filed
perfectly round with a half-round wood file. The bit will give the best
results. If the bit is used, bore holes in a piece of scrap wood until
the exact size is found.
[Illustration: Details of Mantel Clock]
The outside design of the piece of copper is made to correspond to the
design of the clock. The circular hole in the copper can be cut with the
expansive bit by first punching a hole in the center to receive the spur
of the bit, placing on a block of wood and boring through a little way.
The spur on the cutter will cut out the copper. Fasten the copper to the
front with copper nails or round-headed screws.
If good glue can be had, the three pieces of wood may be glued together.
If the glue cannot be relied upon, put in two flat-headed screws from
the back.
The clock can be finished with a dark stain and waxed, or, as it is
small, it can be easily fumed. If stain is used, stain and wax the
pieces before putting them together. The fuming process is more easily
done after the clock is assembled. Secure a bucket, a peck measure, or
any receptacle large enough, when inverted, to put over the clock. Pour
about 2 oz. of strong ammonia into a saucer or small pan. Support the
clock above the saucer and cover both with the inverted bucket. Allow it
to stand for three or four days--the longer it stands the darker the
fumed finish will be. Finish with two coats of bleached wax. Do not use
ordinary uncolored wax, as it will show in the unfilled pores of the
wood. The works of the clock should not be in the frame while fuming.
A MUSIC STAND
The attractive and useful piece of mission furniture shown in the
accompanying illustration is made of quarter-sawed oak. Considerable
labor can be saved in its construction if the stock is ordered from the
mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The stock list consists of
the following pieces:
1 top, 3/4 by 16 by 20 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 11-1/2 by 15 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 12 by 15 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 14-1/2 by 15 in., S-2-S.
1 shelf, 3/4 by 16 by 15 in., S-1-S.
4 legs, 3/4 by 5 by 41 in., S-2-S.
2 lower crosspieces, 3/4 by 3 by 9 in., S-2-S.
2 upper crosspieces, 3/4 by 2 by 9 in., S-2-S.
4 end slats, 5/8 by 2 by 34 in., S-2-S.
20 R.H. screws, 2 in. long.
The four shelves and the top are so wide that it will be necessary to
make them from two or more pieces glued together. The top should have a
1/4-in. bevel cut around the upper edge as shown in the drawing.
[Illustration: Details of Music Stand]
[Illustration: Music Stand Complete]
The curve of the legs can be cut with a bracket saw or a drawknife,
care being taken to get the edges square and smooth. The four
crosspieces are fastened to the legs by means of tenons and mortises.
The end slats are joined to the crosspieces in the same manner. The legs
can be assembled in pairs with the slats and crosspieces in place. They
can be glued in this position, and when dry they should be carefully
gone over with fine sandpaper to remove all rough spots. The shelves
can now be put in place. They should be fastened to the legs with
round-headed screws. The top is also fastened on with screws. When
applying the finish, remove the top board and the shelves and finish
them separately. The stand can be finished in any one of the many
mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose.
This handsome piece of furniture can be used as a magazine stand as well
as a music stand, if desired, and, if it is made and finished well, it
will prove an ornament to any home.
MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN THE END GRAIN OF WOOD
[Illustration: MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN END GRAIN]
It is often necessary to fasten one piece of wood to the end of another
by means of screws. Wood being a fibrous material, it can be readily
understood that when a screw having sharp threads is put in the end
grain parallel to these fibers the threads cut them in such a way that,
when an extra strain is put upon the parts, the screw pulls out,
bringing with it the severed fibers. The accompanying sketch shows how
this difficulty may be overcome, and at the same time make the screw
hold firmly. A hole is bored and a dowel, preferably of hardwood, glued
in it, the grain at right angles to that of the piece.
The size of the dowel, and its location, can be determined by the
diameter and the length of the screw. The dowel need not extend all the
way through the piece, but should be put in from the surface where the
grain of the dowel will be least objectionable.
When putting screws in hard wood much labor will be saved by applying
soap to the threads.
A WALL CASE WITH A MIRROR DOOR
The wall case shown in the accompanying picture will serve well as a
medicine case. Having a paneled door in which is set a mirror, it serves
equally well as a shaving case. It is best made of some hard wood,
though a soft wood such as pine or yellow poplar will work up easier and
look well finished with three or four coats of white enamel paint.
There will be needed the following pieces:
2 sides, 5/8 by 6 by 32-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 top and 1 bottom, 5/8 by 6 by 18 in., S-4-S.
1 top of back, 1/2 by 4 by 16-1/4 in., S-2-S.
1 bottom of back, 1/2 by 3 by 16-1/4 in., S-4-S.
1 shelf, 5/8 by 5 by 16 in., S-4-S.
1 back, 1/4 by 16 by 21 in., S-2-S.
DOOR
2 stiles, 5/8 by 3 by 20-1/2 in., S-4-S.
1 top rail, 5/8 by 2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
1 bottom rail, 5/8 by 4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
1 backing for door, 3/16 by 10 by 15 in., S-2-S.
First shape the ends of the two side pieces as shown in the drawing.
Next square the top and bottom pieces of the case to size, and lay out
and cut the tenons on the ends. Lay out and cut the mortises in the
side pieces, also the groove for the shelf, having first squared the
shelf to size. Cut and shape the top and bottom pieces of the back as
shown. Cut the rebates in the side pieces into which these pieces are to
rest their ends. Cut the rebate for the back. Thoroughly scrape and
sandpaper these parts and assemble them. Cut and fit the back in place.
[Illustration: Wall Case Details]
The door is to be made next. Plan the different parts of the door so
that the edges may be planed to fit the opening; that is, make the door
a good quarter larger at top and bottom than the opening. In cutting the
rebate the easiest way is to use a rabbeting plane and cut the full
length of the pieces. By using a tenon on the rails in which one
shoulder is as much longer than the other as the rebate is deep there is
no resulting groove showing at the corner.
[Illustration: Case with Mirror Door]
The wood should be finished before the glass is set, at least, it should
be filled, if of hard wood, and one coat of paint put on, if of soft
wood which is to be enameled.
In setting the glass, place a thin cushion of putty between the rebate
and the glass and another thin cushion between the glass and the fillet
of wood or the backing which is to protect the back of the glass.
Fit the door, and then put on the hinges and lock. If desired, the
tenons may be made keyed as shown in the photograph instead of through
as shown in the drawing.
To finish the case, if of oak, apply a coat of light paste filler, the
directions being on the filler can. Next put on a coat of white shellac.
When this has hardened apply two coats of some good varnish. Allow time
for each coat to harden and rub the first coats with haircloth or curled
hair, and the last with pulverized pumice and raw linseed oil or crude
oil.
If the wood is soft and an enamel white is desired, the enamel is
applied not unlike paint. The directions will be found on the cans in
which the paint is purchased.
A SIDE CHAIR
A side chair of simple design and construction is here given. The great
difficulty with most chair designs is that the back is generally
designed narrower than the front, thus necessitating the rails entering
the posts or legs at angles. To the amateur this is quite confusing. The
chair illustrated is the same in width, both back and front, so that the
shoulders of all the rails are at right angles to the sides. The back of
the chair is straight, thus simplifying the design still more.
[Illustration: Side Chair Complete]
Another thing which is confusing to the beginner in his efforts to lay
out the mortises is the irregular placing of the rails. It will be noted
that in this design the rails of side, front and back are on the same
level.
Plain sawed red oak will be appropriate for this piece. Have the pieces
mill-planed and sandpapered on four sides to size, allowing 1/2 in.
extra to the lengths for squaring up the ends.
[Illustration: Details of Side Chair]
There will be needed the following:
4 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 17-1/2 in.
4 rails, 3/4 by 2 by 17-1/2 in.
2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 19 in.
2 rear posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 37-1/2 in.
1 back, 3/4 by 9-3/4 by 17-1/2 in.
2 cleats, 3/8 by 1 by 16 in.
4 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 16-1/2 in.
Begin work by cutting the posts to the lengths indicated in the drawing.
The lower ends should be chamfered slightly to prevent their splintering
from usage. The top ends are cut to an angle of 45 deg., the slope
beginning 1/2 in. below the top. Lay out and cut the mortises. To do
this, lay off the measurements on one of the posts, then place all four
side by side on the bench, with the face marks up. Even the ends with
the try-square and then carry the measurements just made across all of
them, using the try-square. The rails ought to be shouldered on all four
sides. Three-eighths inch is a good thickness for the tenons. The width
may be 1-1/4 in. and the length 1 in.
Place the rails side by side on the bench with the joint-edges up and
the ends evened. Measure off the desired length on one of them and carry
the lines across all of them to indicate the location of the shoulder
lines. Separate the pieces and square these lines entirely around all of
the sides of each piece. With the tenon saw rip and cross cut to these
lines.
The back, it will be noted, is set on a slant to add comfort. Thoroughly
clean all the parts and assemble them, using good hot glue. Put the back
together first, then the front. After these have dried, put the side
rails in place.
Cut and fit the two cleats--one to the front rail and one to the rear
rail. Keep them even with the lower edge of the rail so as to form a
slight recess at the top when the slats are in place. This is to keep
the cushion from sliding off. The slats need not be "let into" the
cleats but merely fastened to their top edges. The cushion may be made
of Spanish roan skin and should be filled with elastic felt.
In the chair shown, the joints are reinforced by the addition of lag
screws. If the glue is good and the joints well fitted, these are not
necessary.
AN ARM CHAIR
The arm chair here described and illustrated is intended to be one of
the set of diners made after the design of the side chair described on
another page. The same general directions for making the side chair
apply equally to the arm chair.
The stock given in the following list should be purchased surfaced on
four sides and well sandpapered:
2 rear posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 38 in.
2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 26-1/2 in.
9 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 19-1/2 in.
1 rail, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 19-1/2 in.
3 slats, 1/2 by 2 by 12-1/2 in.
2 arms, 7/8 by 4-1/2 by 20-1/2 in.
2 brackets, 7/8 by 2-1/4 by 2-1/2 in.
2 cleats, 3/8 by 1 by 19 in.
4 slats, 3/8 by 2 by 19 in.
Prepare the posts first by cutting them to the lengths shown in the
drawing. In the photograph the front posts have their tops cut off
square and the arms fastened to them by means of lag screws. A better
way from a mechanical point of view would be to shoulder the top ends on
the four sides, cut through-mortises in the arms and insert these
tenoned posts into these mortises, pinning the arm to the post by means
of small dowels in the edge of the post and through the tenon.
The brackets under the arms are to be fastened to the posts and arms by
means of concealed dowels and glue of good quality.
All of the rails should be tenoned into the posts thoroughly, even if
the lag screw fastenings are used. If the lag screws are used, the
tenons may be what are known as stubb tenons--tenons of short length.
Good hot glue should be used in either case.
The shape of the arms is indicated in the drawing. They are fastened to
the rear posts by means of dowels and glue.
[Illustration: Arm Chair Complete]
The slats, or verticals, of the back should not have their ends tenoned
but should have the mortises in the rails cut sufficiently large to "let
in" the whole end of each. This is much easier and more likely to result
in a satisfactory fit than to shoulder them. Any unevenness in the
lengths of the respective slats will not affect the fitting of the
joints by this latter method.
The tops of the rear posts in this chair, as in the side chair, are cut
to angles of 45 deg., beginning the slope at lines marked 1/2 in. from
the tops.
[Illustration: Details of Chair]
The bottom is made up of 2-in. slats fitted between the front and back
rails and fastened to cleats which have been previously fastened to the
insides of the front and back rails. Keep these cleats low enough on the
rails so that the top surfaces of the slats shall rest somewhat below
the top edges of the rails. Cushions, such as the one shown, can be
purchased ready made or they can be easily made by the amateur.
A good finish for this chair and its mates is obtained as follows: Apply
one coat of brown Flemish water stain. This stain in the original
package is very dark in tone and unless an almost black finish is
wanted, it should be lightened by the addition of one-half or two-thirds
water. Apply with a brush or sponge and allow to dry over night. When
dry, sandpaper lightly with fine or worn sandpaper to remove the raised
grain caused by the water of the stain. Put on a very thin coat of
shellac. This is to prevent the "high lights" in close-grained woods
from being discolored by the stain in the filler which is to follow. The
shellac being very thin does not fill the pores of the wood perceptibly.
Next, sand the shellac coat lightly when it has hardened. Apply a coat
of paste filler colored considerably darker than the stain to the tone
desired for the open grain. If the filler is well stirred and properly
applied, one coat ought to be sufficient. If it does not fill the pores
satisfactorily, apply another coat when the first has had time to
harden. Vandyke brown is used to color the filler, if none but natural
color is to be had. On the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac.
On this apply several coats of wax. The directions for waxing will be
found upon the cans in which the wax comes.
A BOOKCASE
This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made at a very moderate
cost by anyone who has a slight knowledge of tools. Considerable labor
can be saved by ordering the material from the mill ready cut to size,
dressed and sanded. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use and it is
comparatively easy to obtain. Plain-sawed oak looks well, but is more
liable to warp than the quarter-sawed and this is quite an element in
pieces as wide as the ones used. For the complete bookcase the following
material will be needed:
1 top, 3/4 by 15 by 31-1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
1 top back board, 3/4 by 4 by 30-1/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
2 sides, 3/4 by 14 by 50 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
1 bottom, 3/4 by 14 by 28-3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
1 bottom rail, 3/4 by 4 by 28-3/4 in., hard wood, S-1-S.
1 center piece, 3/4 by 2 by 45-3/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
4 door sides, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 45-1/4 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
4 door ends, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 14 in., hard wood, S-2-S.
4 pieces door lattice, 1/2 by 1/2 by 12-1/2 in., hard wood.
4 pieces door lattice, 1/2 by 1/2 by 7 in., hard wood.
2 bottom cleats, 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 by 13 in., soft wood.
2 top cleats, 1 by 1 by 12-1/2 in., soft wood.
3 shelves, 1/2 by 12 by 28-1/2 in., soft wood.
12 pieces backing, 3/8 by 4 by 29-3/4 in., soft wood.
4 hinges.
2 door handles.
Begin with the sides by cutting them so they will pair up all right. The
front edges are rounded while the back edges are rabbeted on the inside
as deep as the backing to be used. The bottoms are cut as shown in the
sketch. Holes about 1/2 in. deep should be bored on the inside at the
proper places for the wooden pegs which hold up the shelves.
[Illustration: Completed Bookcase.]
[Illustration: Details of Bookcase]
The top and bottom boards should have the front edges rounded and sanded
the same as the sides. The top board is sanded on one side only and
care should be taken to get the best side up.
Now cut and fit the top back board. This is fastened to the top by means
of screws. Screw two cleats to each of the sides as shown and by running
screws through these into the top and bottom boards the frame is
completed.
The backing which can be made of some cheap lumber is now put on. Next
put in the center upright piece between the doors by means of a tenon
and mortise at the top and nail at the bottom. The front edge should be
rounded and the edge and sides sanded. Cut and fit the bottom rail as
shown. It is fastened to the frame by means of cleats on the back side.
The doors are put together by means of a tenon and mortise. They should
be rabbeted for the lattice work and the glass. This lattice work can be
omitted and leaded glass put in its place which is very becoming to this
kind of work.
When the case is completed it must be carefully gone over with sandpaper
before any finish is applied.
A mission stain is suitable for work of this kind, but it can also be
finished in "golden oak" which is done in the following manner: First
put on a golden oak stain and after it has dried for about 2 hours,
apply the filler. Let this dry about 10 minutes then rub off with an old
rag. Then go over the case again with some very fine sandpaper and after
seeing that all parts are free from dust and dirt the varnish can be
applied. Three coats of varnish will give a beautiful glossy finish.
A LAMP STAND
A mission table lamp stand for those who use electric lights is shown in
the accompanying illustration. It is suitable for either the office or
the home and is very simple in design and construction. The stock should
be quarter-sawed oak and it can be ordered from the mill ready cut to
length, squared and sanded. The following pieces will be needed:
1 post, 1-1/2 in. sq. by 23 in.
1 arm, 1-/8 by 3/4 by 13-1/2 in.
1 block, 3/4 in. thick by 6 in. square.
1 block, 1 in. thick by 9 in. square.
[Illustration: Details of Lamp Stand]
Square up the base blocks and fasten them together with screws as shown
in the detail sketch. A mortise, 1 in. square, is cut in the center of
the blocks for the center post.. Lead weights, covered with felt,
should be attached to the bottom, as shown. The post has a tenon cut on
one end to fit the base, and a mortise cut in the other for the arm.
Holes are bored in the arm from the ends for the wires. They can be
plugged after the wires are in place. A hole is also bored in the top of
the center post to connect with the holes in the arm for the lead wire.
[Illustration: Electric Lamp Stand Complete]
It is best to glue the joints together, although this is not necessary
if the joints are a tight fit. Sandpaper the parts thoroughly, then
stain to match the other furniture.
[Illustration: Extension Dining Table Complete]
AN EXTENSION DINING TABLE
The accompanying sketch and photograph show a simple design of an
extension dining table of the mission style. It is very easy to
construct and can be built at home by anyone who is at all handy with
tools. It should be made of quarter-sawed oak, which can be secured at
the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Order the following
pieces:
2 top pieces, 1 by 23 by 46 in.
2 extra leaves, 1 by 12 by 46 in.
2 rails, 3/4 by 3 by 44 in.
4 rails, 3/4 by 3 by 22 in.
2 pieces for posts, 3/4 by 8 by 24 in.
2 pieces for posts, 3/4 by 6 by 24 in.
4 pieces for feet, 3 by 3 by 14 in.
4 pieces for feet, 3 by 3 by 5 in.
4 pieces for feet, 1 by 4 by 4 in.
4 pieces moulding, 1 by 1 by 10 in.
1 piece, 1 by 12 by 27 in., birchwood.
2 brackets, 3/4 by 3 by 32 in., birchwood.
2 pieces for slide, 1-3/4 by 3 by 36 in., birchwood.
4 pieces for slide, 1 by 3 by 36 in., birchwood.
12 pieces for slide, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 36 in., birchwood.
The feet can be made first by squaring up one end of each and beveling
the other as shown in the drawing. The short pieces are fastened to the
long ones by means of long screws and glue. The four square pieces
should be nailed to the outer ends and holes bored in them for the
casters. Prepare the pieces for the posts, and before nailing them
together fasten the feet to them with long screws. Be careful to get
them on square, else the table will not set level when complete. Now
nail and glue the pieces forming the table together and fasten the
moulding at the bottom. This moulding should have mitered corners as
shown in the bottom view. Also fasten the rest piece to the top of the
post, using long screws and glue.
[Illustration: Details of Dining Table]