other pieces of mission furniture that have been described, but anyone
who has a fair knowledge of tools will not have much trouble in
constructing it in the home workshop if the plans are carefully
followed. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to use, as it is easy to
work and looks best when finished. Order the stock from the mill ready
cut to length, squared and sanded. Following is a list of the stock
needed:
2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 30 in.
2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 50 in.
1 bottom rail, 3/4 by 3 by 31 in.
2 end rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18 in.
1 stretcher, 3/4 by 8 by 33-1/2 in.
2 end slats, 3/8 by 8 by 15 in.
1 back slat, 3/8 by 8 by 15-1/2 in.
2 back slats, 3/8 by 3 by 15-1/2 in.
1 front drawer rail, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 31-1/4 in.
2 side drawer rails, 3/4 by 3 by 18-1/4 in.
1 drawer front, 3/4 by 6 by 30 in.
1 desk lid, 3/4 by 18 by 31-1/4 in.
1 desk board, 3/4 by 19-1/4 by 31-1/4 in.
2 end boards, 3/4 by 19 by 21-1/4 in.
1 top board, 3/4 by 10 by 34 in.
1 top back board, 3/4 by 5 by 31-1/4 in.
1 back board, 3/4 by 30 by 22 in.
2 drawer sides, 1/2 by 6 by 19-1/2 in., S.W.
1 drawer end, 1/2 by 6 by 29 in., S.W.
1 drawer bottom, 1/2 by 18 by 29 in., S.W.
2 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 7 by 23 in., S.W.
8 pieces for pigeon holes, 3/8 by 4 by 6-3/4 in., S.W.
Start with the back posts, being sure they are square and of the right
length; place them side by side and lay out the mortises for the lower
rails, the desk rails and the top back boards, as shown in the
accompanying detail drawing. Lay out the front posts in the same manner.
Cut the tenons on the ends of the rails to fit the mortises in the
posts. Also cut mortises in the rails for the back and end slats. The
end rails have a mortise in them for the tenons on the ends of the foot
boards. Clamp the ends of the desk together, with the end rails in
place; then fit the side boards. Bore holes through the posts into the
side boards for dowels as shown. After the dowels are in place the holes
can be plugged.
[Illustration: Details of Writing Desk]
Cut and fit the top back board, the bottom rail, the back board and the
stretcher. Cut the top and desk boards at the back corners to clear the
posts. The top board is to be fastened to the side boards with blind
screws. The back board is fastened to the posts with dowels as shown.
[Illustration: Desk Complete]
When all the parts fit square and tight they can be glued together. The
ends of the desk should be glued up first and left to dry, then the
other parts put in place and glued. When clamping the parts together see
that they fit perfectly square and tight. While the glue is drying the
drawer can be made. The front board is made of oak, but the other parts
may be made of some soft wood. The side pieces are mortised and glued to
the front board, The end and bottom boards can be nailed together.
The drop lid of the desk is made as shown. Two or more boards may have
to be glued together for the lid, the desk bottom and the back board.
The lid is fastened to the desk board with two hinges, and it should be
so arranged that when closed it will be even with the sides. Brackets or
chains are fastened to the inside to hold it in the proper position when
it is open. Small blocks of wood fastened to the inner edge of the side
boards will prevent it from closing too far. A lock, if desired, can be
purchased at a hardware store and fitted in place. Suitable handles for
the drawer should also be provided.
When the desk is complete go over it with fine sandpaper and remove all
rough spots. Scrape all glue from about the joints, as the finish will
not take where there is any glue.
The pigeonholes are made from 3/8-in. stock. They may be tacked in place
after the desk is finished.
The finish can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the
trade for this purpose. If the desk is well made and finished, it will
have a very neat and attractive appearance.
A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL
The stand shown in the accompanying illustration is for use with a desk
telephone. The stool when not in use, slides on two runners under the
stand. A shelf is provided for the telephone directory, paper, pencil,
etc.
[Illustration: Stand and Stool Complete]
[Illustration: Details of Stand and Stool]
The joints may be made with dowels, or the mortise and tenon may be
used, as desired. If the latter is decided upon, allowance must be made
on the length of the rails for the tenons. The list given is for the
dowel-made joints. The following stock list gives the amount of material
needed which should be ordered planed and sanded. This work can be done
by hand if the builder has the time and desires to have an entire
home-made article. However, the list is given for the mill-planed
material.
STAND
4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 29 in.
2 rails, 7/8 by 5 by 11 in.
1 rail, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 13 in.
1 rail, 7/8 by 5 by 13 in.
2 runners, 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 14 in.
1 top, 7/8 by 18 by 20 in.
1 shelf, 7/8 by 12-7/8 by 13-3/4 in.
STOOL
4 posts, 1-1/2 in. square by 17 in.
4 rails, 7/8 by 4 by 6-1/2 in.
4 rails, 7/8 by 2 by 6-1/2 in.
1 stretcher, 7/8 by 4 by 7-1/4 in.
1 top, 7/8 by 12-1/2 in. square.
The exact lengths for the posts are given in the list. Should the
builder desire to square them up, allowance must be made for this when
ordering stock.
Arrange all the pieces in the position they are to occupy in the
finished stand and stool and number all the joints. Locate the centers
and bore holes for all the dowels. Assemble the two sides of the table
first. Notch the runners and fasten them to the posts with flat-head
screws. Use hot glue on the dowel joints if possible.
Cut the corners out of the shelf to fit the legs and assemble the frame
of the table. Use round-head screws through the rails to hold the shelf.
The top may be fastened in two ways, with screws through cleats on the
inside of the rails and under the top, or with screws slanting through
the upper part of the rails and into the top as shown. The stool, is
assembled in the same manner as the stand.
The stand and stool should be finished to harmonize with the furniture
and woodwork of the room in which they are to be used.
HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL
Secure a piece of steel about 1/4 in. thick, 1-3/4 in. wide and 8 in.
long. Drill various sized holes through the steel as shown in Fig. 1,
leaving the edge of each hole as sharp as the drill will make them. Cut
off a block of wood the length necessary for the dowels and split it up
into pieces about the size for the particular dowel to be used. Lay the
steel on something flat, over a hole of some kind, then start one of the
pieces of wood in the proper size hole for the dowel and drive it
through with a hammer, as shown in Fig. 2. The sharp edges on the steel
will cut the dowel as smooth and round as if it were turned in a lathe.
[Illustration: Easy Way to Make Dowels]
A MEDICINE CABINET
This cabinet is best made of quarter-sawed oak, as this wood is the most
easily procured and looks well when finished. Order the stock from the
mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. The following pieces will
be needed:
4 posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 28 in.
4 side rails, 3/4 by 2 by 16 in.
4 end rails, 3/4 by 2 by 7 in.
2 door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 15 in.
2 door rails, 3/4 by 2 by 22-3/4 in.
1 door panel, 1/4 by 11-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.
1 back panel, 1/4 by 15-1/2 by 23-1/4 in.
2 end panels, 1/4 by 6-1/2 by 23-1/4 in.
2 pieces for top and bottom, 1/2 by 6-3/4 by 15-3/4 in.
[Illustration: Medicine Cabinet Complete]
Square the four posts and bevel the tops as shown.
[Illustration: Details of Medicine Cabinet]
Cut grooves in them with a plow plane to receive the 1/4-in. panels. The
tenons on the rails are cut 1/4 in. wide and fit into the grooves in the
posts the same as the panels. The rails have grooves cut at the inside
edges for the panels. The front posts do not have grooves on the inside
but have two mortises, one at each end for the top and bottom rails. The
back has a panel fitted in the same as the ends. See that the pieces
fit together perfectly square and tight, then glue them together and
give it time to dry.
The top and bottom boards are next put in place. The top is placed in
the center of the top rails while the bottom is put even with the lower
edge of the bottom rails, as shown in the detail drawing. The door frame
is mitered at the corners and rabbeted on the inner edge to take the
panel. A mirror can be used in place of the panel if desired. Suitable
hinges and a catch, which can be purchased at a hardware store, should
be supplied for the door.
The shelves are of soft wood and are to be arranged to suit the maker.
Before applying a finish, go over the cabinet with fine sandpaper and
remove all the surplus glue about the joints and the rough spots, else
the finish will not take evenly. The finish can be any one of the many
different kinds supplied by the trade for this purpose.
CONTENTS
Arm Chair 66
Arm Chair, Curved Back 18
Basket, Waste Paper 27
Bedstead, Oak 99
Bend Wood, How to 40
Bookcase 70
Buffet, Oak 5
Cabinet, Medicine 116
Cedar Chest, Oak-Bound 79
Chair, Arm 66
Chair, Curved Back Arm 18
Chair, Rocking 14
Chair, Side 62
Chest, Oak-Bound Cedar 79
China Closet 47
China Closet, Another 94
Clock, Arts-Crafts Mantel 52
Clock, Plain Oak Hall 10
Couch, Oak, with Cushions 33
Desk, Lady's Writing 108
Desk, Oak Writing 29
Dining Table, Extension 77
Dowel-Cutting Tool, How to Make 115
Dowel Holes, Tool for Marking 23
Dresser for Child's Playroom 85
Electric Shade for Dining Room 37
Footstool, Leather-Covered 50
Footstool, Oak 101
Grille with Pedestals to Match 107
Hall Clock, Plain Oak 10
Lamp, Arts and Crafts Oil 91
Lamp Stand 73
Library Set in Pyro-Carving 105
Magazine Table 24
Mantel Clock, Arts-Crafts 52
Medicine Cabinet 116
Mortises, Tool for Making 84
Music Stand 55
Oak Stain 9
Plate Rack 21
Pyro-Carving, Library Set in 105
Rocking Chair 14
Screws, Making Hold in End Grain of Wood 58
Shade, Electric for Dining Room 37
Side Chair 62
Smoking Stand 43
Stain, Oak 9
Stand and Stool, Telephone 112
Stand, Lamp 73
Stand, Music 55
Stand, Smoking 43
Stool, Telephone Stand and 112
Table, Extension Dining 77
Table--Library Set in Pyro-Carving 105
Table, Magazine 24
Telephone Stand and Stool 112
Tenons, Cutting with a Hand-Saw 90
Tool, Dowel-Cutting, How to Make 115
Tool for Marking Dowel Holes 23
Tool for Making Mortises 84
Wall Case with a Mirror Door 59
Waste Paper Basket 27
Wood, How to Bend 40
* * * * * *
Transcriber's Notes:
The Table of Contents was added for the reader's convenience.
Folio 118: "perfectly" was "perfecly".
Folio 4 and 81 "mill-planed" was "millplaned".
Added captions for clarity:
Folio 27: "A WASTE PAPER BASKET".
Folio 28: "DETAILS OF WASTE PAPER BASKET".
Folio 58: "MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN END GRAIN".