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MISSION FURNITURE
How To Make It
PART TWO
Popular Mechanics Handbooks
Chicago
Popular Mechanics Company
Copyrighted, 1910
by H. H. Windsor
This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being
published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books
are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish
information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all.
The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this
Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by
the editor of Popular Mechanics.
The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of
each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material
mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a
complete home-made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for
planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for
surface four sides and surface two sides.
Contents
AN OAK BUFFET, 5
OAK STAIN, 9
A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK, 10
A ROCKING CHAIR, 14
A CURVED BACK ARM CHAIR, 18
A PLATE RACK, 21
TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES, 23
A MAGAZINE TABLE, 24
A WASTE PAPER BASKET, 27
AN OAK WRITING DESK, 29
AN OAK COUCH WITH CUSHIONS, 33
ELECTRIC SHADE FOR THE DINING ROOM, 37
HOW TO BEND WOOD, 40
A SMOKING STAND, 43
A CHINA CLOSET, 47
A LEATHER-COVERED FOOTSTOOL, 50
ARTS-CRAFTS MANTEL CLOCK, 52
A MUSIC STAND, 55
MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN THE END, 58
GRAIN OF WOOD, 58
A WALL CASE WITH A MIRROR DOOR, 59
A SIDE CHAIR, 62
AN ARM CHAIR, 66
A BOOKCASE, 70
A LAMP STAND, 73
AN EXTENSION DINING TABLE, 77
AN OAK-BOUND CEDAR CHEST, 79
A TOOL FOR MAKING MORTISES, 84
A DRESSER FOR CHILD'S PLAYROOM, 85
CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW, 90
ARTS AND CRAFTS OIL LAMP, 91
ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET, 94
AN OAK BEDSTEAD, 99
AN OAK FOOTSTOOL, 101
A LIBRARY SET IN PYRO-CARVING, 105
A GRILLE WITH PEDESTALS TO MATCH, 107
A LADY'S WRITING DESK, 108
A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL, 112
HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL, 115
A MEDICINE CABINET, 116
List of Illustrations
Finished Buffet, 5
Details of Buffet, 5
Hall Clock Complete, 11
Details of Hall Clock, 11
Rocking Chair Complete, 15
Details of Rocking Chair, 15
Arm Chair Having Bent-Wood Back, 19
Details of Curved Back Arm Chair, 19
Parts Held Together by Keys, 22
Details of Plate Rack, 23
Marking Bore Holes for Dowels, 24
Table Complete, 25
Details of Magazine Table, 27
Illustration, 27
Illustration, 29
Detail of Writing Desk, 29
Writing Desk Complete, 31
Couch Complete, 34
Details of Mission Couch, 35
Details of Shade, 38
Electric Shade Complete, 39
Steaming Box, 41
Hose Attached to Teakettle, 41
Form Blocks, 41
Smoking Stand Details, 43
Finished Smoking Stand, 43
Details of China Closet, 47
China Closet Complete, 49
Footstool Leather Covered, 51
Details of Footstool, 52
Mantel Clock with Wood and Copper Front, 53
Details of Mantel Clock, 54
Details of Music Stand, 55
Music Stand Complete, 55
Illustration, 58
Wall Case Details, 60
Case with Mirror Door, 61
Side Chair Complete, 63
Details of Side Chair, 64
Arm Chair Complete, 67
Details of Chair, 68
Completed Bookcase, 70
Details of Bookcase, 70
Details of Lamp Stand, 74
Electric Lamp Stand Complete, 75
Extension Dining Table Complete, 77
Details of Dining Table, 77
Details of Cedar Chest, 79
Cedar Chest Complete, 83
Boring Holes for Tenons, 84
Details of Dresser, 85
Dresser Complete, 88
Drawer Construction, 89
Sawing Tenons, 91
Artistic Mission Style Oil Lamp, 91
Bronze Shade Holder, 91
China Closet with Latticework Doors and Sides, 96
Details of China Closet, 96
Oak Bedstead Complete, 99
Details of Oak Bedstead, 101
Details of Footstool, 103
Footstool Complete, 103
Table and Seat Decorated in Pyro-Carving, 105
Grille for an Arch, 107
Details of Writing Desk, 109
Desk Complete, 110
Stand and Stool Complete, 112
Details of Stand and Stool, 112
Easy Way to Make Dowels, 116
Medicine Cabinet Complete, 116
Details of Medicine Cabinet, 117
AN OAK BUFFET
[Illustration: Finished Buffet]
[Illustration: Details of Buffet]
The accompanying sketch and detail drawing show a design of a buffet
wherein refinement of outline and harmony of details are conspicuously
regarded. Quarter-sawed oak is the most suitable wood for this handsome
piece of mission furniture. The material should be ordered from the mill
ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Following is a list of the
stock needed:
2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 47-3/4 in.
2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 45-1/2 in.
4 rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 50-1/2 in.
2 end rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in.
4 end rails, 3/4 by 4 by 18-1/2 in.
4 pieces for end panel, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21 in.
2 panels, 3/8 by 12 by 21 in.
1 top board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.
1 back board, 3/4 by 11-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.
1 shelf board, 3/4 by 2 by 46 in.
2 brackets, 1 by 2 by 7-3/4 in.
4 pieces for doors, 3/4 by 4 by 11 in.
2 panels, 3/8 by 11 by 17-1/2 in.
1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 8 by 22-1/2 in.
1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in.
1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7 by 22-1/2 in.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
2 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 piece, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood.
1 bottom board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.; soft wood.
2 partitions (several pieces), 3/4 by 20 by 24-3/4 in.
2 front pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.
2 back pieces. 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.; soft wood.
2 side pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in.; soft wood.
1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 25 by 46 in.
1 mirror frame (to suit mirror).
X/
Start to work on the four posts by squaring them up to the proper length
in pairs and beveling the tops as shown. Clamp all four pieces on a flat
surface with the bottom ends even, then lay out the mortises for the
rails and panels on all four pieces at once with a try-square. This
insures getting the mortises all the same height. The back posts also
have a mortise cut in them at the top for the back board as shown. Lay
out the tenons on the ends of the front and back rails in the same
manner. Cut them to fit the mortises in the posts, also rabbet the back
rails for the backing. Cut tenons on the end rails and rabbet them and
the side pieces for the panels.
Lay out the top and bottom boards to the proper size and notch the
corners to fit about the posts. These boards are fastened to the
1-1/2-in. square rails with dowels and glue. They can now be glued
together and set away to dry. The top board is of oak, and be sure to
get the best side up, while the bottom one can be made of soft wood if
desired.
The partitions are made of several boards glued together. Be careful to
get an oak board on the outer edge. The drawer slides are set into the
partitions as shown and are fastened in place with screws from the
inside.
The top back board has a tenon on each end that fits into the mortises
in the back posts and is rounded at the top as shown. The shelf is also
rounded at the ends and is fastened to the back with screws.
A plate glass mirror should be provided for the back. This is fitted to
the back board as shown, then the brackets put up at the ends of the
mirror frame.
The main parts are now ready to be assembled and glued together. Before
applying any glue, see that all the joints fit together perfectly. The
end rails and the panels are glued together first and allowed to dry. Be
very careful to get the parts clamped together perfectly square and
straight, else you will have trouble later on. When these ends are dry
slip them on the tenons on the front and back rails which are already
fastened to the top and bottom boards.
The back board and the partitions must be in place when this is done.
Pin and glue the joints and clamp the whole together square and leave to
dry.
The doors are now made by mortising the top and bottom pieces to take
the 3/8-in. panel which is glued in place. The drawers are made as shown
in the sketch. The front board should be oak, but the remainder can be
made of soft wood. The joints are nailed and glued. Suitable hinges for
the doors and handles for the drawers should be provided. Antique copper
trimmings look very well with this style of furniture and can be secured
at most any hardware store.
The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape
all surplus glue from about the joints, as stain will not take where
there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper, then apply the
stain you like best. This can be any one of the many mission stains
supplied by the trade for this purpose.
OAK STAIN
An easy and at the same time a good way to stain oak in imitation of the
fumed effect, is to boil catechu in the proportion of 1/4 lb. to 6 lb.
of water, after which cool and strain. Apply this to the wood, and when
dry treat with a solution of bichromate of potash in the same proportion
as with the catechu. Bichromate of potash alone in water will give a
good stain. A solution of 2 oz. of pearl ash and 2 oz. of potash mixed
in a quart of water makes a good stain. Potash solution darkens the
wood, and when applied very strong will produce an almost ebon hue, due
to what we might describe as the burning of the wood fiber.
A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK
The hall clock shown in the illustration should be made of plain oak.
The following pieces will be needed to make it:
2 back posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 81 in., S-4-S.
2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S.
2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 44 in., S-4-S.
10 front and back horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 15 in., S-4-S.
10 side horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S.
1 face, 3/8 by 14 by 14 in., S-4-S.
FRONT DOORS
4 rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-4-S.
4 stiles, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-4-S.
4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S.
4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 11 in., S-4-S.
4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 15 in., S-4-S.
2 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 15 in., S-4-S.
BACK
1 piece, 3/8 by 14 by 21 in., S-4-S.
2 pieces, 3/8 by 14 by 18 in., S-4-S.
4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 20 in., S-4-S.
TOP SIDE PANELS
2 pieces, 3/8 by 9-1/2 by 14 in., S-4-S.
8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
6 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S.
2 middle side panels, 3/4 by 9-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S.
LOWER SIDE PANELS
8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 18 in., S-4-S.
8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 18 in., S-4-S.
8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S.
If the worker will take the trouble to combine the different lengths of
pieces having like thicknesses and widths into pieces of standard
lengths, he will be able to save himself some expense at the mill with
no more work for himself.
Begin work by shaping the ends of the posts as indicated in the drawing.
Lay out and cut the mortises for the tenons of the horizontals or rails.
These mortises need not be deep if the joints are to be reinforced later
with lag screws as is the clock shown. They may be what are known as
stub tenons and mortises. The tenons are not more than 1/2 in. long,
just enough to keep the rail from turning about.
Next lay out and cut the tenons on the rails. Bore the holes for the lag
screws, being careful to bore on adjacent surfaces so that the holes
will miss each other. Use a 3/8 by 3-in. lag screw, boring the hole in
the tenon with a 1/4-in. bit the full depth the screw is to enter.
The side panels should be fitted into grooves in the rails, and before
the frame is put together these panels should be squared up and the
grooves cut in the rails and posts at the proper places.
[Illustration: Hall Clock Complete]
[Illustration: Details of Hall Clock]
The mullions of the lower side panels, it will be noted, are specified
5/8 and 3/4 in. wide. The 5/8-in. pieces are for the central parts of
the frame and the others for the outside. The frame is to be made 1/8
in. larger all around than the distance between the posts and between
the rails so that it may be set in grooves cut in the posts and the
rails to a similar depth, 1/8 in. This is true, also, of the mullions of
the front doors. Square up the shelves so that they may be set into
grooves in the adjacent rails. The middle shelf is to have an overhang
and will rest upon the rails.
The mullions of the top side panels are all of the same width, and it is
not intended or necessary to set their frame into grooves in the posts.
The wood panel back of them gives ample strength.
It is a good plan not to groove the panel upon which the figures are
placed, and which becomes the face of the clock. It is better to fit
this piece in and fasten metal or wood buttons on the back side so that
it can be readily taken off to get at the clock movement from the front.
Make the doors, tenoning the rails into the stiles and grooving both to
receive the mullioned framework of 3/16-in. stuff.
Put the whole frame together, using good hot glue for the joints. When
the glue has dried sufficiently to allow the clamps to be taken off, fit
the doors and hinge them. Butterfly surface hinges look well and are the
easiest to apply.
Thoroughly scrape all the surplus glue off and sandpaper the parts
preparatory to applying the finish.
To finish, apply one coat of mission oak water stain. When dry,
sandpaper lightly, using No. 00 paper. Apply a second coat, diluted with
an equal amount of water. Sand this lightly and put on a very thin coat
of shellac to keep the filler color, which follows, from discoloring the
high lights. When the shellac has had time to harden, sand lightly and
put on a coat of paste filler. Use light filler, colored with umber and
Venetian red in the proportion of 12 oz, of umber, and 4 oz. of red to
20 lb. of filler. The directions for applying the filler will be found
on the can labels. On the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac.
Sand the shellac lightly and put on several coats of some good floor
wax, polishing well according to the directions on the can. This is what
is known as a mission oak finish and is quite popular for this type of
furniture design.
The metal figures for the dial come with the clock movement. Some of the
movements come already set in boxes of wood so that all one needs to do
is to shape the projecting ends of the wood containing boxes and fasten
them to the frame with screws from the back. A clock with dial figures,
eight-day movement, striking the hours and half hours, with cathedral
gong can be bought for $4, possibly less.
A ROCKING CHAIR
In furniture construction such as this, nothing is gained by trying to
plane up the stock out of the rough. This is mere drudgery and can be
more cheaply and easily done at the planing mill by machinery. There
will be plenty to do to cut and fit all the different parts. Order the
pieces mill-planed and sandpapered to the sizes specified below.
Plain sawed red oak takes a mission finish nicely and is appropriate.
Some people like quartered white oak better, however. The cost is about
the same.
The stock for the chair is as follows: Widths and thicknesses are
specified exact except for the rear posts and the rockers; but to the
lengths enough surplus stock has been added to allow for squaring the
ends.
2 front posts, 1-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S.
2 back posts, 1-5/8 by 11 by 40 in., S-2-S.
1 front horizontal, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S.
1 back horizontal, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
2 back horizontals, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
2 side horizontals, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
2 back slats, 5/16 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S.
2 arms, 1 by 4-1/2 by 25 in., S-2-S.
1 rocker, 2-1/4 by 6 by 33 in., S-2-S.
5 bottom slats, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
[Illustration: Rocking Chair Complete]
[Illustration: Details of Rocking Chair]
Begin work on the posts first. The front posts should have one end of
each squared, after which they can be cut to the exact length. The
rear posts, according to the stock bill, are specified for the exact
thickness. By exercising forethought, both may be got from the piece
ordered. The tops and bottoms of the posts should have their edges
slightly chamfered to prevent their slivering.
The shape of the arm is a little out of the ordinary, but the drawing
indicates quite clearly how it is cut. The arm is fastened to the posts
by means of dowels and glue after the other parts of the chair have been
put together.
Now prepare the curved parts of the back. These parts are worked to
size, after which they are thoroughly steamed and bent in the forms
described on another page. These forms should have a surface curve whose
radius is 22 in. While the parts are drying out, go ahead with the
cutting of the mortises and tenons of post and rail.
Inasmuch as the width of the front of the chair exceeds that of the back
by 2 in., allowance must be made for slant either in the tenons of the
side rails or in the mortises. This will necessitate the use of the
bevel in laying off the shoulders of the tenons.
The slats for the bottom are made long enough so that their ends may be
"let into" the front and back rails, a 3/4-in. groove being plowed to
receive them.
Assemble the back, then the front; and when the glue on them has dried,
put the side rails in place, then the arms. The chair should now be
scraped and sandpapered preparatory to applying the finish.
The cushion shown in the picture is made of Spanish roan skin leather
and is filled with elastic felt. Such cushions can be purchased at the
upholsterer's or they can be made by the craftsman himself. Frequently
the two parts of the cushion are laced together by means of leather
thongs.
A CURVED BACK ARM CHAIR
The arm chair, the picture and drawing of which is given herewith is a
companion piece to the rocker described on another page.
With the exception of the back-legs the stock bill which follows gives
the thicknesses and widths exact. To the length, however, enough has
been added to allow squaring up the ends.
Plain sawed white or red oak will be suitable for a design such as this.
Front posts, 2 pieces, 1-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 26 in., S-4-S.
Back posts, 1 piece, 1-5/8 by 8 by 45 in., S-2-S.
Front horizontals, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S.
Rear horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/4 in., S-4-S.
Side horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
Back slats, 2 pieces, 5/16 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S.
Arms, 2 pieces, 1-1/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-4-S.
Seat slats, 5 pieces, 1/2 by 2-1/4 by 20 in., S-4-S.
Begin work by squaring up the ends of the front posts and shaping the
rear ones Chamfer the ends of the tops and bottoms slightly so that they
shall not splinter through usage. Next lay out the mortises and tenons.
The curved horizontals for the back should now be prepared and steamed
as described on another page. The curved form to which the steamed piece
is to be clamped to give shape to it should be curved slightly more than
is wanted in the piece, as the piece when released will tend to
straighten a little.
The arms of the chair may be shaped while these pieces are drying on the
forms. The rails of the front and back may be tenoned, too. It should
be noted that the front of the chair is wider than the back. This will
necessitate care in mortising and tenoning the side rails so as to get
good fits for the shoulders The bevel square will be needed in laying
out the shoulders of the tenons.
[Illustration: Arm Chair Having Bent-Wood Back]
[Illustration: Details of Curved Back Arm Chair]
Assemble the back, then the front. When the glue has hardened on these
parts so that the clamps may be removed, put in the side rails or
horizontals and again adjust the clamps. The arms are to be fastened
to the posts with dowels and glue.
The seat, it will be seen from the drawing, is to be a loose leather
cushion to rest upon slats. These seat slats may be fastened to cleats
which have been previously fastened to the inside of the front and back
seat rails or they may be "let in" to these rails by grooving their
inner surfaces before the rails have been put in place. The latter
method is more workmanlike, but more difficult.
A cushion such as is shown can be purchased ready made up, or it may be
made by the amateur by lacing together two pieces of Spanish leather cut
to size and punched along the edges so as to allow a lacing of leather
thong. It may be filled with hair or elastic felt such as upholsterers
use.
Probably the simplest finish that can be used is weathered oak. Put on a
coat of weather oak oil stain, sandpaper lightly when dry and then put
on a very thin coat of shellac. Sand this lightly and follow with two or
more coats of floor wax put on in very thin coatings and polished well.
A PLATE RACK
The plate rack shown in the accompanying illustration is designed for
use in a room furnished in mission style. The dimensions may be changed
to suit the wall space. The parts are held together entirely by keys.
The bar across the front is for keeping the plates from falling out, but
this may be left out if the plates are allowed to lean against the wall.
The following list of material will be needed, and, if the builder does
not care to do the rough work, the stock can be ordered planed, sanded
and cut to the exact size of the dimensions given.
2 ends, 7/8 by 5 by 20 in.
1 top, 7/8 by 6 by 36 in.
1 shelf, 7/8 by 5 by 36 in.
1 bar, 7/8 in. square by 36 in.
4 keys. Scrap pieces will do.
Lay out and cut the mortises on the end pieces for the tenons of the
shelf, also the tenons on the top ends and the diamond shaped openings.
In laying these out, work from the back edge of the pieces. Cut the
tenons on the ends of the shelf to fit the mortises in the end pieces,
numbering each one so the parts can be put together with the tenons in
the proper mortises. Mark out and cut the mortises in the top to receive
the tenons on the end pieces.
[Illustration: Parts Held Together by Keys]
In laying out the mortises for the keys allow a little extra on the side
toward the shoulder so the ends and tops may be drawn up tightly when
the keys are driven in the mortises. All the mortises and diamond
shaped openings should be marked and cut with a chisel from both sides
of the board.
If the bar is used, it may be attached with a flat side or edge out as
shown.
[Illustration: Details of Plate Rack]
Finish the pieces separately with any weathered or fumed oak stain. When
thoroughly dry, apply a very thin coat of shellac. Finish with two coats
of wax. The rack can be attached to the wall by two mirror plates
fastened on the back edges of the end pieces.
TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES
On some work it is quite difficult to locate the exact point for a
dowel, but with the tool illustrated placed between the joint to be made
and the parts gently pressed together you have the exact point for the
dowel in each piece. The tool is made from a piece of sheet steel about
1/2 in. square with a pin having a point on both ends driven in the
center, as shown in Fig. 1. The tool is placed between the pieces that
are to be joined, as shown in Fig. 2. The small pin will mark the point
for the bit in both pieces exactly opposite.
[Illustration: Marking Bore Holes for Dowels]
A MAGAZINE TABLE
This little magazine table will be found a very useful piece of
furniture for the den or library. Its small size permits it to be set
anywhere in a room without being in the way. Quarter-sawed oak should be
used in its construction, and the following pieces will be needed:
4 legs, 2 by 2 by 29 in., S-4-S.
4 end slats, 1/2 by 2 by 10 in., S-4-S.
1 shelf, 1 by 16 by 30 in., S-1-S.
1 top board, 1 by 18 by 36 in., S-1-S.
If you are convenient to a planing mill you can secure these pieces
ready cut to length, squared and sanded. This will save you considerable
labor.
The four legs are finished on all sides and chamfered at the bottom to
prevent the corners from splitting. The mortises for the shelf should
be cut 9 in. from the top of each leg, as shown in the sketch. Care
should be taken to make these a perfect fit.
[Illustration: Table Complete]
The shelf should be finished on the top side and the four edges, and the
corners cut out to fit the mortises in the table legs. An enlarged view
of this joint is shown in the sketch.
The top board may have to be made of two 9-in. boards, dove-tailed and
glued together. It should be finished on the top side and the edges. The
edges can be beveled if desired. The board is fastened to the legs by
means of screws through four small brass angles. These angles can be
made or they can be purchased at any hardware store.
[Illustration: Details of Magazine Table]
The top board and the shelf should be mortised at each end for the 1/2
by 2-in. slats. These slats should be finished on all sides.
The table is now ready to be assembled and glued together. The glue
should dry at least 24 hours before the clamps are removed.
After the glue is dry, carefully go over the entire table with fine
sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots. It can now be
finished in any one of the mission stains which are supplied by the
trade for this purpose.
A WASTE PAPER BASKET
A waste paper basket of pleasing design, and very easy to construct, is
shown in the accompanying sketch. Quarter-sawed oak is the best wood to
use, and it is also the easiest to obtain. The following pieces will be
needed:
1 bottom piece, 3/4 by 9 in. square.
4 corner pieces, 3/4 in. square by 15-1/2 in.
4 top rails, 3/4 in. square by 7-1/2 in.
12 slats, 1/4 by 3/4 by 16-1/4 in.
4 blocks, 1 in. square.
4 F.H. screws, 2-1/2 in. long.
24 R.H. screws, 3/4 in. long.
[Illustration: A WASTE PAPER BASKET]
If the pieces are ordered from the mill cut to length, squared and
sanded, much labor will be saved. First bevel the ends of the corner
posts and the slats, as shown, and finish them with sandpaper. Bore the
holes in the posts and the railing for the dowel pins. These pins should
be about 3/8 in. in diameter and 3/4 in. long. When this is done the
parts can be glued together and laid aside to dry. The four blocks 1 in.
square are for the feet. Bore holes through these blocks and the corners
of the bottom board for the large screws to go through. Fasten them
together by running the screws through the blocks, and the board into
the ends of the corner posts as shown in the sketch. The 1/4-in. slats
can now be fastened on with the small round-headed screws. They should
be evenly spaced on the four sides. This completes the basket except for
the finish. This can be any one of the many finishes supplied by the
trade for this purpose.
[Illustration: DETAILS OF WASTE PAPER BASKET]
AN OAK WRITING DESK
For the writing desk shown in the accompanying picture the following
stock will be needed. The thicknesses of all the pieces are specified.
On the legs the widths, too, are specified. Quarter-sawed white oak is
the best wood to use, and it should be well seasoned and clear of shakes
and other imperfections.
STOCK BILL
2 front posts, 1-5/8 by 1-5/8 by 34 in., S-4-S., oak.
2 back posts, 1-5/8 by 1-5/8 by 42 in., S-4-S., oak.
2 lower side rails, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 15 in., S-2-S., oak.
1 lower back rail, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by 27 in., S-2-S., oak.
2 sides, 3/4 by 9 by 14 in., S-2-S., oak.
2 sides, 3/4 by 10-1/2 by 14 in., S-2-S., oak.
1 back, 3/4 by 9 by 26 in., S-2-S., oak.
1 back, 3/4 by 10-1/2 by 26 in., S-2-S., oak.
1 top, 3/4 by 6 by 30-in., S-2-S., oak.
1 lid, 3/4 by 15 by 28 in., S-2-S., oak.
2 side shelves, 3/4 by 5 by 16 in., S-2-S., oak.
4 braces, 3/4 by 1-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., oak.
1 bottom of case, 3/4 by 16 by 28 in., S-2-S., oak.
INTERIOR
1 piece, 3/4 by 16 by 27 in., S-2-S., oak.
4 drawer and case bottom supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 28 in., S-2-S., oak.
6 drawer and case bottom supports, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 16 in., S-2-S., oak.
4 drawer guides, 3/4 by 3/4 by 16 in., S-2-S., oak.
DRAWERS
2 front pieces, 3/4 by 7-1/2 by 13 in., S-2-S., oak.
4 side pieces, 3/8 by 7-1/2 by 16 in., S-2-S., poplar.
2 back pieces, 3/8 by 7 by 12 in., S-2-S., poplar.
2 bottom pieces, 3/8 by 16 by 12 in., S-2-S., poplar.
PIGEON HOLES
1 bottom, 3/16 by 7-1/4 by 27 in., S-2-S., poplar.
1 top, 3/16 by 4-1/2 by 27 in., S-2-S., poplar.
4 verticals, 3/16 by 7-1/4 by 10 in., S-2-S., poplar.
1 vertical, 3/16 by 4-1/2 by 4 in., S-2-S., poplar.
5 horizontals, 3/16 by 7-1/2 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.
2 horizontals, 4-1/2 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.
DRAWERS IN PIGEON HOLES
2 front, 3/8 by 2-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.
4 sides, 3/16 by 2-1/4 by 7-1/4 in., S-2-S., poplar.
2 backs, 3/16 by 2-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.
2 bottoms, 3/16 by 7-1/4 by 9 in., S-2-S., poplar.
[Illustration: Detail of Writing Desk]
Begin work by cutting the posts to length and shape. Having done this,
lay out the tenons on the lower rails so as to have the required
distances between the shoulders, and then cut them. Now cut the parts
to be worked into the frames that support the drawer and bottom of the
case, and glue them properly. While this is drying, the other parts of
the case may be laid out and shaped. It is intended that the sides of
the case shall splice on the edge of the bottom of the pigeon hole case.
In this manner the side shelves will cover the joint on either end. The
back may be made up into one solid piece. Make the side pieces of the
case long enough to be housed into the posts about 3/8 in. at each end.
[Illustration: Writing Desk Complete]
The shelves at the ends of the desk should be fastened after the frame
is put together and before the bottom of the case for the pigeon holes
is fitted and fastened. In so doing the shelves may be fastened from the
inside of the case. The angles of the braces are 30-60 deg. It will be
noted that the edges of the lid are rabbeted. Another way is to have the
lid large enough to fit entirely over the sides of the case and change
the slope to correspond.
The drawers may be made next. The fronts should be of oak, but the other
parts of yellow poplar. An examination of an ordinary drawer will show
the manner of construction.
Make the frame of the pigeon holes of 3/16-in. yellow poplar. The
drawing shows an arrangement entirely independent of the sides of the
desk so that the frame can be made and slipped in place after the finish
has been put on. Two drawers are shown. These are faced front and back
alike so as to secure as much room in the drawer as possible.
In the finishing, the poplar wood should be finished with white shellac
in the natural light color of the wood. For the oak parts the following
is appropriate for this design: Apply one coat of green Flemish water
stain. When this has dried, sandpaper lightly until the raised grain has
been removed, and apply another coat of stain diluted one-half with
water. When dry, sand lightly and apply a very thin coat of shellac.
Sand lightly and apply a coat of dark filler, natural filler colored
with lamp-black, according to the somberness of the finish desired. Upon
this put a coat of orange shellac. After this, put on two coats of a
good rubbing varnish. Rub the first coats with curled hair or haircloth
and the last with pulverized pumice stone and raw linseed oil or crude
oil.
AN OAK COUCH WITH CUSHIONS
This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made at a very moderate
cost, if the material used for the cushions is of good imitation
leather. These substitutes for leather last fully as long and the
difference can only be detected by an expert. White oak will give the
best results except for the frames or slats on which the cushions rest
and these may be made of poplar or pine. If a mill or woodworking shop
of any kind is handy, the hardest part of the work can be saved by
securing the following list of material, cut, planed, sanded and squared
up to the exact sizes given:
2 posts, 3 in. square by 17 in.
2 posts, 3 in. square by 26 in.
2 rails, 7/8 by 8 by 82 in.
1 rail, 7/8 by 8 by 25 in.
1 end, 7/8 by 18 by 25 in.
1 piece, 7/8 by 9 by 24-1/2 in.
The last piece on the list when sawed diagonal makes the two slanting
pieces at the head of the couch. The corner braces are made from two
pieces of straight-grained oak, 2 by 4-1/2 by 4-1/2 in., sawed on the
diagonal, and cut as shown in the enlarged plan section to make the four
pieces.
First be sure the legs are perfectly square, the two short ones and the
two long ones of equal length respectively. Either chamfer or round the
upper ends as desired, chisel and plane the taper on the lower ends. Lay
out and cut all the tenons on the rails--1 in. is the amount allowed at
each end in the stock dimensions given. Arrange the posts and rails in
the positions they are to occupy in the finished couch. Number each
tenon and the place its corresponding mortise is to be cut in the post.
Mark each mortise directly from the tenon which is to fit into it,
taking care to have all the rails an equal distance from the floor. Bore
and chisel out all mortises and see that all the rails fit perfectly,
before proceeding with the work.
[Illustration: Couch Complete]
The next step will be to fit in the slanting side pieces at the head of
the couch. These must be let into the long posts 1/2 in. and held also
by a dowel in the side rail. In order to get these pieces into place,
the mortise in the long post must be made 1/2 in. longer than the tenon
on the sloping side piece so the tenon may be first pushed into the
mortise and then the side clamped down on the rail over the dowel. The
whole couch should fit together perfectly before gluing any of the
parts.
Glue the end parts together first. Hot glue will hold best if the room
and lumber are warm; if these cannot be had, use cold glue. After the
ends have set for at least 24 hours, glue in place the side rails and
slanting head pieces. Screw in place the corner braces. Be sure when
making these braces to have the grain running diagonally across the
corner, or the brace will be weak, also, be sure the sides are square
with the ends; this may be determined by measuring the diagonals to find
if they are equal.
If it is decided to use frames for the cushions, then the following
material will be necessary:
2 pieces, 7/8 by 2 by 56 in.
2 pieces, 7/8 by 2 by 25 in.
4 pieces 7/8 by 2 by 21 in.
This material may be of pine or poplar. These pieces are made into two
frames as shown in the drawing and held together with long screws or
nails. Fasten with glue and screw short blocks on the inside of the
couch rails for holding the two frames in place. Tack pieces of cheap
burlap across the frame and cover with ordinary black cambric. This will
give a strong, springy rest for the cushions.
Should slats be used instead of frames for holding the cushions, then
the following list of material should be substituted for the frame
material list:
2 cleats, 7/8 by 2 by 56 in.
2 cleats, 7/8 by 2 by 25 in.
12 slats, 3/4 by 5 by 25 in.
[Illustration: Details of Mission Couch]
The materials listed may be of soft wood the same as for the frame. The
cleats are fastened to the inside of the rails of the couch with
screws, so the top edge will be 2 in. lower than the top edge of the
rails. The slats are spaced evenly on these cleats.
After the glue is all set, remove the clamps and scrape off any glue
that may be on the wood. If this glue is not removed it will keep the
stain from entering the wood, which will show up when finished in white
spots.
This couch may be stained in any of the shades of brown or dark to
harmonize with its lines of construction. A water stain will penetrate
the wood best and after this is applied and thoroughly dried the surface
should be well sanded to remove the roughness of the raised grain. Apply
one coat of thin shellac and when this is dry, put on two coats of wax.
In making up the cushions, use either hair or elastic felt for the
filling.
ELECTRIC SHADE FOR THE DINING ROOM
The dining shade shown is constructed of wood and glass. There will be
needed the following:
8 pieces, 3/4 by 3/4 by 24 in., S-4-S, oak.
4 pieces, 3/4 by 3/4 by 4 in., S-4-S, oak.
4 pieces, 3/4 by 3/4 by 10-1/2 in., S-4-S, oak.
4 pieces, 3/8 by 3/4 by 23 in., S-4-S, oak.
8 pieces, 3/8 by 3/4 by 10 in., S-4-S, oak.
4 pieces, 3/8 by 3/4 by 9 in., S-4-S, oak.
1 piece, 3/4 by 8 by 8 in., S-4-S, oak.
Begin work by shaping the ends of the longest pieces as shown in the
drawing. All the angles are 45 deg. Next lay out the cross-lap joints at
the corners so that two sets of horizontal frames shall be formed 23 by
23 in. Cut four pieces to a length of 3 in. each. Also shape up the
"false" extensions of these pieces which are to be fastened below the
lower frame at the corners. Since these are to be cut from the pieces
just specified, the easiest way is to shape the end of each to the
required angle and then crosscut. Rabbet these pieces sufficient to
allow the art glass to set in on the back sides and be fastened--about
1/4 in. will do--and put them together with glue and brads.
[Illustration: Details of Shade]
Now make the top square in a similar manner, except the rabbets. In this
top square is to be fitted the 3/4-in. board which is to hold the lights
and to which the chains are to be fastened.
The sloping sides are next to be made. The sides are to be built up
separately, the corners being lapped and glued after rabbeting the under
arrises sufficient to let the glass in. The four sides are mitered
together at their edges and reinforced by covering the joint with
copper.
These sides are next mitered to the top and bottom frames and made fast
on the under sides with copper strips, glue being used on the edges of
the wood.
The shade shown had a mottled glass in which greens predominated. The
sizes and shapes of these pieces of glass would better be determined
after the woodwork is finished.
[Illustration: Electric Shade Complete]
One manner of fastening the chains is clearly shown in the photograph.
Such a combination will call for an extra piece of oak, 3/4 by 3-1/4 by
3-1/4 in. finished stock.
A good finish for this shade is obtained as follows: Put on a coat of
silver gray water stain. When this has dried, sand lightly with No. 00
sandpaper and apply a coat of golden oak oil stain. Allow this to dry
after wiping the surplus off with a cloth. Put on a coat of black paste
filler and allow to harden over night. When dry, sand lightly and put on
a coat of very thin shellac. Sand this lightly when hard and put on a
coat of wax. This is a very dark finish relieved by high lights of
lighter brown and is known as Antwerp oak.
HOW TO BEND WOOD
The process for making bent wood for furniture parts is the same as for
any other kind of bent-wood work. The pieces should be made close to the
size, with only enough material left on them for "cleaning up" after the
bending has been done. The pieces used for the bent work should be good,
clean, "live" lumber. Lumber dried on the stump will not bend.
A box must be made in which to steam the pieces of wood to be bent. A
design of a steaming box is shown in the illustration. Such a box is
made by nailing four boards together into a square or rectangular form,
the boards having a length sufficient to take in the length of the
furniture parts to be bent. Both ends of the finished box are squared up
and closed with a board cut to the size, using felt or gunny sack in the
joint to make it as tight as possible. These ends can be nailed on, but
it is best to hold them with a bar of metal set against each one.
Nailing the ends a few times would spoil the box for further use in
steaming.
[Illustration: STEAMING BOX]
[Illustration: HOSE ATTACHED TO TEAKETTLE.]
[Illustration: FORM BLOCKS]
A good teakettle will serve the purpose for a steam generator. A hose is
attached to the spout of the teakettle, as shown in the illustration,
and to the steaming box in a like manner. The steaming box should be
provided with a short piece of gas pipe turned into a hole bored into
one of the sides used for the top on which to attach the hose. A small
hole should be bored into one side of one end of the steaming box, and
this end should be arranged a trifle lower than the other end. The hole
will permit the water of condensation to escape. Steam should not escape
from the box when a charge of wood is being softened. Steam which
escapes from the box in the form of vapor has done no work whatever, and
is just so much waste of fuel. In order to give up its heat to the wood,
the steam must condense and come away from the box as water. Therefore,
in steaming a charge of pieces in the box, never crowd the teakettle so
hard that the steam escapes around the heads of the box or through any
other joints. The steam should be supplied to the box just as fast as it
condenses, and no faster. When the pieces are placed in the box they
should be so arranged that the steam can find ready access to all sides
of each piece.
The curve or bend of the piece to be made must be marked out on a wide
board or on the floor. Nail down several blocks of wood or pieces cut
out like brackets on the board or floor against the drawing, as shown in
the illustration. The wood is sprung between these blocks or forms after
it has been softened by steam. When taking the steamed pieces from the
box do not lose any time in securing them to the forms. Do not take out
more than one piece at a time, as it must be bent to the forms
immediately after taking it from the hot steam. The time of the steaming
will vary with the size of the pieces. Small strips may be steamed in 15
or 20 minutes, while large ones may require several hours to become soft
enough to bend. The pieces must be left in the forms until they are
thoroughly dry.
A SMOKING STAND
When making the smoking stand shown in the accompanying photograph, use
quarter-sawed oak, if possible, as this wood is the most suitable for
finishing in the different mission stains. This little piece of
furniture is very attractive, easy to construct, and is an article that
a smoker would appreciate.
If the stock is purchased finished and sandpapered, it will save much of
the hard work. The material needed is as follows:
One piece, 7/8 by 12 in. by 9 ft. long, for the legs.
One piece, 7/8 by 10 in. by 4 ft. long, for the top.
One piece, 7/8 by 8 in. by 1 ft. long, for the shelves.
One piece, 1/2 by 2 in. by 6 ft. long, for the pipe rack.
The legs can be made first. Cut four pieces off the 12-in. board, each
exactly 25 in. long, and lay each one out with a pair of compasses as
shown in the detail drawing at Fig. 1. With a circle or keyhole saw cut
out the piece, then shave out the saw marks and sandpaper smooth.
[Illustration: Smoking Stand Details]
[Illustration: Finished Smoking Stand]
Next take the 8-in. board and make the shelves. Set a bevel protractor
at a 45-deg. angle, lay out the pieces as shown in Fig. 5, and cut them
out with a saw. Eight pieces are cut out as shown in Fig. 4. These
pieces can be cut out of the scraps left from cutting the legs and
shelves. Cut them so that the grain runs the long way. Place two of
these braces on the bench with the beveled ends toward each other, but
with a piece of 7/8-in. stock between them, and the other two beveled
ends resting against a straightedge. Fasten them to the bench with a
couple of nails, leaving the heads sticking up so that you can pull them
later with a claw hammer. Remove the straightedge and slide the piece
that is between the braces along until it projects 4 or 5 in. from the
side formed by the straightedge. Then place two more braces in the
corners formed by this piece, put two 7/8-in. pieces between the two
braces that are fastened, and the two that are loose, so that each brace
will be in its proper place. Fasten the last two the same as the first
pair. Then remove all the pieces from between the braces and place the
tops of the legs in their stead. These should be fastened to the braces
with 1-in. screws of small diameter, put in at an angle. Bore a hole in
straight for about 1/4-in. with a 1/4-in. bit for each screw, and then
run a gimlet at an angle into the leg. After you have the legs fastened
to the first set of braces, measure up from the bench 10 in. and put in
another set, being careful to get them all the same distance from the
bench, as the inner corners of the shelves rest on these braces. Now
pull out the nails and set the stand on its feet.
Next put in the shelves. Place the inner corner of one on one of the
braces, and fasten it there with a screw put through the brace from the
bottom. Now fasten a clamp on each leg at the ends of the shelf in such
a manner as to form a support on the top side of the shelf. Then put
four screws through the shelf from the bottom into the legs. Repeat the
operation on each shelf, being careful to get them all the same height.
Four pieces like Fig. 3 should now be made. These pieces will have to be
fitted in place as they should slant outward so that it will be easy to
put articles through the holes. The holes should be about 5/8-in.
diameter.
The top can be made by cutting off two pieces from the 10-in. board,
each 20 in. long, and fastening them together with dowels. Smooth the
ends and be sure that the boards match evenly. It makes a better job to
glue the top together, in addition to the dowels, and, if you do this,
it would be better to make the top first. Then it will have time to dry
before you are ready to use it. In putting on the top, care should be
taken to get each of the corners an equal distance from the legs. Then a
screw may be put up through each one of the braces and two or three
through each leg into the top. Now smooth all rough and uneven places
with fine sandpaper and apply the finish. Secure some metal matchsafes
and scratchers, fasten on as shown in the photograph, and the stand is
complete.
A CHINA CLOSET
This beautiful piece of mission furniture can be made by anyone who has
a few good tools and knows how to use them. The cost is very moderate
and if you are convenient to a mill a great amount of labor can be saved
by ordering the pieces ready cut to length, squared, and sanded.
Quarter-sawed oak should be used and the material needed will be as
follows:
4 posts, 2 by 2 by 54 in., S-4-S.
2 top and bottom boards, 3/4 by 15-3/4 by 39-1/2 in., S-1-S.
2 shelves, 3/4 by 15-1/2 by 38 in., S-2-S.
2 lower end braces, 3/4 by 5 by 15 in., S-2-S.
2 upper end braces, 3/4 by 4-1/4 by 15 in., S-2-S.
1 lower front board, 3/4 by 3 by 40 in., S-1-S.
1 upper front board, 3/4 by 2-1/4 by 40 in., S-1-S.
4 door frames, 3/4 by 1-3/4 by 43-1/2 in., S-2-S.
4 door frames, 3/4 by 2 by 19 in., S-2-S.
4 upright end pieces, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 39-1/2 in., S-2-S.
5 back pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 46-1/2 in., S-1-S.
2 cleats, 1 by 1 by 37-3/4 in., soft wood.
4 cleats, 1 by 1 by 12-3/4 in., soft wood.
4 blocks, 1/2 by 1 by 1-1/2 in.
First be sure the posts are perfectly square and of equal length. Either
chamfer or round the upper ends as desired. The mortises can be laid out
and cut, or they can be left until the tenons are all made and then
marked and cut directly from each tenon.
The top and bottom boards should have the corners cut to clear the posts
as shown in the drawing. The top board should be finished on both sides
and the bottom one on the upper side only and be sure to get the best
side up.
[Illustration: Details of China Closet]
Cut the tenons on the front boards back 1/4 in. from the face as shown
in the end view. The boards should be finished on the outside sides and
edges. The end pieces are fitted and finished in a similar manner except
that the inside edge is rabbeted for the glass as shown. The side
pieces are also rabbeted for the glass and the posts have grooves 1/2
in. deep cut in them to hold these side pieces. They are glued in place
and this can be done after the frame is put together.
[Illustration: China Closet Complete]
The two shelves are finished on both sides and the front edges. The
doors are fitted in the usual manner by a tenon and mortise joint at the
ends. They are rabbeted on the inside for the glass and are finished on
all sides.
Before gluing any of the parts together, see that they all fit and go
together perfectly square. The posts, side, and front pieces should be
glued and assembled, then the top and bottom boards put in place to hold
the frame square when the clamps are put on. Leave dry for about 24
hours, then scrape all the surplus glue from about the joints as the
finish will not take when there is any glue. Fasten the top and bottom
boards to the frame by means of screws through cleats as shown in the
drawing. The backing is put on and finished on the front side. A mirror
can be put in the back without much trouble, if it is desired. The
shelves should be put in place and held at the back by screws through
the backing and at the front by two small blocks on the posts as shown.