THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.
The Village Chiefs of Sebeano.--Ludicrous Mistake.--War between Romian
and Ewena.--The insignificant Cause which gave rise to it.--Successful
Attempts at Reconciliation.--Contribution towards giving a
Knowledge of their Character.--State of the Country.--Productions
and Commerce.--The Author visits Larrat.--Uncivil Reception at
Kalioba.--Departure for Watidal.--Meeting on the North-west Point of
Timor-Laut.--Departure for Serra.
We returned on board, accompanied by a numerous party of _Sohbats_,
or friends, a considerable number having preceded. I found that the
chiefs of Sebeano had been alongside, but without venturing on board:
they returned, however, on the following morning. I received this
numerous company on deck, the cabin being too small for so many guests.
A glass of arrack and a little Java tobacco formed the most acceptable
refreshment I could offer them. The chiefs of Sebeano and some others
were extremely alarmed, speaking in a tremulous manner, and being
scarcely able to bring out the words they wished to utter.
It accidentally happened that while we were sitting together on deck,
it became necessary to spread the awning, on which the officer of the
watch ordered the men aft to perform this duty. The word of command
for this is usually given with much quickness, and a number of men
instantly came aft to obey it, whose sudden appearance caused such a
panic in the breasts of the chiefs, that many of them sprang on their
feet in a moment, and some actually popped overboard through the ports,
while two of them rushed down the companion and concealed themselves
in the cabin. All this happened so suddenly, that at first I could
not imagine the cause. The others, who were somewhat acquainted with
the usages of a ship, remained seated, and laughed heartily at the
ungrounded fears of their more ignorant countrymen. The chiefs of
Sebeano now seeing their mistake, returned on board very much ashamed,
and making ludicrous gestures.
I returned to the shore in the morning, according to my promise,
having previously sent twenty seamen, according to my usual custom, to
add more solemnity to the meeting. In the mean time the interpreters
had returned, with the agreeable intelligence that the chiefs would
willingly receive my intervention, and abide by the decision I might
come to.
An enquiry into the causes of their wars will assist in giving an idea
of the disposition of these people: I will, therefore, give a short
account of the causes of the enmity which had arisen against the people
of Romian, which were as follows:--
The people of Romian happened to have more success at the trepang
fishery than the people of the other villages during two successive
years, which gave rise to an envious feeling on the part of their
neighbours, which was increased by a Chinese vessel having remained
at Romian to trade, while only one of the Chinamen belonging to her
proceeded to Ewena, to barter with the inhabitants. These circumstances
gave rise to distrust and estrangement, and the people of both villages
began to avoid each other, though without coming to an open rupture.
A third accidental circumstance which occurred, tended to enlarge the
breach. While the children belonging to the two villages were playing
with small bows and arrows, a child from Ewena happened to wound
slightly one of those from Romian. The inhabitants of the latter place
viewing the accident as an intentional offence, demanded satisfaction,
and whenever parties from each village met, they proceeded from words
to blows, and at length broke out into open war with each other. Each
party robbed the other of their women, destroyed their fisheries,
and put a stop to their agriculture, becoming more embittered at the
occurrence of every deed, until at length, a few weeks before my
arrival, a downright skirmish ensued, in which the people of Ewena had
one man killed and nine wounded, while ten belonging to the other party
were wounded also.
The people of Ewena, being the less powerful of the two, demanded
assistance from the inhabitants of Aweer, to some of whose warriors the
badge of honour, called the korra-korra,[39] was delivered. The parties
now became so exasperated, that there existed no possibility of those
who had not entered into the quarrel being able to pacify them, and
the strife soon extended to Larrat, and even to the more distant Serra,
where individuals, influenced by family connections, took up the cause
of one or the other party. Thus, we find in these distant parts of the
globe a confirmation of the fact, that wars and other important events
spring from the most insignificant causes. The narrative of these
differences afforded me a new proof of how unfortunate these ignorant
and uncivilized people are, when they are from under the protection
of the Dutch Government, and have been left to themselves for a long
series of years.
On my return to the shore I had the satisfaction to perceive, that both
parties had laid aside their weapons, but without having renewed their
former familiarity. I landed between the two villages, at a spot where
I had caused a tent of canvass to be erected, to shelter ourselves and
the escort.
As soon as I found that both parties would abide by my decision, I
judged it advisable to bring the chiefs together, and to reconcile them
as well as possible, in order to render it more easy to comply with
their mutual demands. I also hoped that by being brought together,
each party would be inclined to use more courtesy to the other, and I
did not hesitate to make them acquainted with my object, promising, at
the same time, that I would decide with justice and impartiality. I
promised also to stand security for the personal safety of the chiefs
of each party; but in spite of this I had the greatest difficulty in
inducing them to come forward, and place themselves, one party to the
right, and the other to the left of me and my men. Having, at length,
succeeded, I brought to their view the mutual detriment that ensued
from their discord. The Malayan language, in which I addressed them,
was interpreted to them by my linguists. After some time this address
appeared suddenly to affect them, and the chiefs of both parties burst
into tears, and unanimously entreated me to effect a reconciliation,
promising to make any reparation that I might think proper. I took
advantage of this favourable opportunity; and placing the hands of the
opposing chiefs together, wished that good fortune might attend their
reconciliation. This struck them so forcibly that they fell on each
other's necks, and a salvo was immediately fired from the muskets of
our party, and from the one-pounders in the boats. The chiefs now sat
down in a circle before the tent, and took _siri_ from each other's
boxes, as a solemn proof of sincere reconciliation, the interpreters
being also requested to partake of it. A glass of arrack was also
distributed to each of the by-standers by my steward, and by way of
strengthening the renewed friendship, my interpreter delivered a very
appropriate and affecting prayer, which met with a most enthusiastic
reception. Many of the words uttered by the interpreter were repeated
with fervour by the by-standers, from which it was evident that they
had been heard attentively.
After this I thought of making a visit to Sebeano; and leaving one of
the interpreters behind, withdrew from the assembly, with the promise
that I would afterwards enquire into the arrangement of their mutual
demands. I have already remarked that, under similar circumstances, the
natives should be left to their own deliberations for a certain time,
in order to arrive at the desired end.
From the speedy manner in which this reconciliation was effected,
it will perhaps be supposed, that the task of making peace among
these people is an easy one; but such is not the case. My patience
was sometimes nearly exhausted, for I was obliged to go, certainly,
ten times from one village to the other before I could induce the
contending parties to come together; and although it was always my wish
to effect my object by means of mild remonstrances, I was now and then
obliged to make use of serious threats. The good result which usually
attended my efforts, incited me to persevere and spare no trouble; but
yet, as it will subsequently appear, my labours were sometimes almost
insupportable.
On my return to the brig I found that it was too late to carry into
effect the plan I had proposed, and I therefore employed the following
day in attending to the affairs of Sebeano and the villages lying to
the northward, this mode of proceeding giving satisfaction to all
parties.
Sebeano, which consisted of about twenty houses, was situated on the
sea-coast, an hour's walk to the northward of our position; and two
hour's journey beyond this again, was Adodo, a village similar in
point of size and situation to the other. Midway between the brig
and Sebeano, a small river ran into the sea, from which we filled our
water. A still larger river emptied itself between Aweer and Ewena.
M. Dielwaart and myself, accompanied by the interpreters, spent the
early part of the morning in examining the island, which proved to be
tolerably well cultivated, and fertile in the extreme. Our path lay
over hills, the summits of which afforded us a beautiful prospect of
the surrounding country; fine fenced plantations, in which huts were
erected for watch-houses, being visible in every direction.
The stock produced on the island consists chiefly of hogs, goats and
fowls, the latter being in so great abundance, that three or four were
to be purchased for a chopping-knife. These knives, with thick brass
wire, parangs, dishes, basins, bottles, red beads, coarse cloths of
red and other colours, are the articles most in demand as payment for
stock and provisions. Dresses made at Great Timor and Kissa are also
much esteemed; as are elephants' tusks, gongs, Javanese dresses, and
gold and silver coin, the last being in demand for the manufacture of
ear-rings and other ornaments.
The fishery is carried on here in a very simple manner. Neither nets
nor lines are made use of, the fish being taken at the rising of the
tide by means of bamboo spears, some of which are provided with ten
or twelve small points,[40] while others have only a single barbed
point. Bows and arrows are used by others, who wade knee-deep over
the coral banks, which absolutely swarm with fish at that time of the
tide; indeed, the abundance is so great, that even by this simple
method a short time only is required to obtain sufficient for the daily
consumption.
On the 17th I held another meeting of the inhabitants of Ewena and
Romian, at which the entire population of these villages were present.
When installing the chiefs, whom they had chosen as their Orang Kayas,
I observed to them that this title of itself signified nothing, unless
they showed obedience to those who possessed it, and gave them much
other advice which appeared to me to be applicable to their situation.
The Orang Kaya of Aweer having been acknowledged on this occasion as
the highest in rank, I presented him with a silver-knobbed baton as a
token of his rank, while the others received flags to hoist in their
villages, and acts of appointment were drawn up for all.
The period from ten o'clock in the morning until two in the afternoon,
was passed in settling their old differences. The result was, that the
people of Ewena received back the korra-korra above-mentioned, giving
in exchange an elephant's tusk; the other affairs being adjusted in a
similar manner. We were then invited into the villages, to partake of
some refreshments that had been prepared for us, every thing affording
proofs of kindness and friendship.
After my return on board, several young men came to me for the purpose
of asking a passage to Banda, but I refused, giving as an excuse that
the brig was already full. These islanders willingly leave their
homes for a period, their object, I believe, being pure curiosity,
coupled with a desire to learn a little of the Malayan language, that
they may be viewed with greater respect on their return to their own
country. Every year some of them leave the island with the Amboynese
and Banda traders, who value them much, as they prove very useful on
board their vessels. Many occasionally reside at Banda in the Malayan
_kampong_, where they lead an idle life, occasionally catching fish,
but loitering away the remainder of their time. M. Camphuyzen, the
Resident, has often assured me that neither force nor kindness would
induce them to lead a laborious life. According to an old custom,
which obtains among the Tenimber islanders, those who have committed
misdemeanours are often forced to leave their country for a certain
time, who may return after a lapse of two or three years, when they
are received again with friendship. When the small-pox[41] or other
infectious disease appears among them, the patients are sent to the
island Mulo, and are not allowed to return until perfectly restored
to health. The relatives of these unfortunates show no compunction in
leaving them to their fate; and as no one approaches them when under
the affliction, they are forced to seek their own subsistence on the
shores and amid the forests of the island.
An Orang Tua of Ewena, named David, who, according to his own account,
was descended from Christians, joined me as interpreter for a very
slight remuneration. In his youth he had been at Amboyna and Banda,
where he had made great progress in the Malayan language, this
accomplishment rendering him of great service to us. He frequently
assured me, that the submission of the Tenimberese was not to be
depended upon, and only arose from the great dread they entertained of
the Company; but I thought that I had reason for placing no belief in
what he stated. It will appear, however, from what follows, that the
satisfaction I experienced at Vordate soon had a most unpleasant set
off.
Having determined to pay a visit to Kalioba, a village on Larrat,
immediately opposite to Aweer, and having a smaller village, situated
a little to the northward, under its rule, I left the brig with two
boats, accompanied by M. Dielwaart, Mr. Leydelmeyer the writer,
Mr. Cadet Bolk, and the interpreters. Our reception was apparently
courteous: the Dutch flag waved in the village, two shots were fired
from _lelahs_, and a portion of the villagers appeared on the beach
to meet us. I judged, however, from their behaviour and warlike
appearance, that we were not so welcome as it seemed, and my opinion
was soon confirmed.
We were not invited to enter the village, and as two boat-sheds were
erected on the beach, one of which was empty, we took up our quarters
under it, and brought the goods up out of the boats, which by this
time were no longer afloat, the reefs having fallen dry for some
distance out to sea. As the natives continually pressed around us, we
posted sentries round the shed, who had great difficulty in keeping out
the crowd. With a view to inspire them with confidence, I went entirely
unarmed and alone into the village, and visited the chiefs and elders
in their houses. Neither women nor children were to be seen, and on my
remarking this, I was answered that they had gone out to labour in the
plantations.
Our arrival had not been unexpected, as it had already been announced
to them from Vordate. The uncourteous reception I met with, therefore,
annoyed me extremely, as it could not be otherwise than premeditated.
In the meantime I invited the chiefs to approach me, and made them
acquainted with the object of my visit, informing them of the good
intentions of the Government; after which I caused the letter to be
read to them, and distributed the presents, which were similar in every
respect to those given to the chiefs of Vordate. They were received,
however, with the greatest indifference, as if they conferred a favour
on us by accepting them, and any remarks that I made on the subject
were scarcely listened to. Until late at night they continually
importuned us for arrack in the most rude manner, and even went so far
as to take away the bottles from among our things without asking leave.
We found it to be necessary to take the greatest precaution; and this,
coupled with the indifference of our dwelling, which admitted both wind
and rain, caused us to pass a very unpleasant night.
From the early part of the morning we were again annoyed by people
asking for arrack. We requested the chiefs to furnish us with
some water and two earthern pots, in which to cook rice and other
provisions, but we received neither; and I was necessitated to send
the seamen to a river, a quarter of an hour's walk from us, to obtain
some of the former, there being no wells near the village. In the early
part of the morning a number of women passed us laden with faggots and
bamboos full of water, the rattling of the rings on their legs creating
a sound similar to that made by the movements of a gang of chained
criminals.
I had given permission to two of the seamen to enter the village, with
the view of purchasing some goats and fowls; but these soon returned,
stating that they had received very unfriendly treatment in the
village, and had been unable to obtain anything. One of them having
laid down his handkerchief, found that it was gone when he returned to
take it up. I requested the chiefs to cause it to be given up, but did
not succeed in obtaining it, until I had paid the owner of the house in
which it was lost, the value of two rupees.
In the morning I commenced again with my duties, but had the greatest
difficulty in bringing the chiefs together, those who had received
the presents being the least willing to make their appearance. Others
represented themselves as chiefs who were not so, and demanded similar
presents in a brutal manner, going away grumbling on my refusing to
comply with their demands. Neither threats nor remonstrances appeared
to have any effect upon them. Although I was extremely annoyed at
their proceedings, I could not help attributing it to downright
stupidity, and I trust that I have not formed a wrong opinion. They
seemed totally to disregard the goodness of the Government, and to
forget that my visit was made to them at their own invitation. They
requested, however, that I would install their chiefs in the name of
the Government, which I complied with, at the same time letting them
know that I should assuredly inform the Government of the unfriendly
reception I had met with from them.
At four o'clock in the afternoon, when high water occurred, we embarked
on board the boats, without the chiefs seeming to care more about us,
and left this inhospitable place. We now stood towards Watidal, the
village off which the brig had anchored on our first arrival, where
we took up our quarters under a boat-shed, and after having received
a visit of welcome from the chiefs, made up for our want of rest the
previous night by a quiet slumber. On the following morning we hauled
the boats up to repair some leakages, and dried the articles which
had been wetted by the rains we experienced at Kalioba. We afterwards
visited the chiefs, and I have the satisfaction of saying, that we
were received with the same kindness as before, but somewhat less than
that we had experienced at Vordate, which may be attributed to their
inferior state of civilization. My steward obtained some fowls, eggs,
yams and cocoa-nuts, in exchange for knives, brass-wire, and pieces of
cloth. From these we prepared a meal, of which two of the Orang Kayas
partook.
In the afternoon a large prahu arrived from Serra, bound to Larrat and
Vordate on a trading voyage, on board which was one of the chiefs of
the former island, who had come for the purpose of paying me a visit.
He informed me that the other chiefs would also have come, but were
withheld by having heard that the brig had departed from Larrat, they
not knowing where she was gone to. The Orang Kaya proceeded with his
vessel to Vordate, promising that he would soon return to Serra; and as
it appeared to me advisable to pay a visit to that island, particularly
as the people in the prahu expressed a strong desire that I should do
so, I determined to commence my voyage thither immediately.
Having landed, towards evening, on the north-west point of Timor-Laut,
I witnessed a very singular ceremony. About twenty women, ornamented
with beads, appeared walking in line with stately steps, some bearing
bunches of plantains, and others baskets of yams or cocoa-nuts. Two
men, armed with large parangs and other weapons, preceded and followed
the train, the whole keeping their eyes fixed on the ground, and
bending their steps towards the spot where they deposited their dead.
I perceived that they came out of a hut in the forest where they
had assembled; and following them at a distance, I found that they
decorated the grave of one of their countrymen with what they had
brought, and with signs of strong feeling, turned again towards their
homes.
The chiefs of the circumjacent villages fitted out a small prahu in
conjunction, which was intended to accompany me to Serra, to the crew
of which I paid a small salary. It was necessary for me to obtain such
a vessel, as the boats were too full to carry sufficient water for
the voyage. The eldest son of the Orang Kaya, who was also one of the
village chiefs, having agreed to accompany me, we left our bivouac on
the afternoon of the same day, and pursued our voyage towards Serra.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 39: This badge of honour, which had long been in the
possession of the forefathers of the inhabitants of Romian and Ewena,
and had been placed in the keeping of the latter, was the prow of a
korra-korra (a large prahu) formed of chased gold, the possessor being
entitled to carry a similar badge, made of gilded wood, in his vessels.
It is, probably, considered as a talisman; similar superstitions
occurring among many of the native nations.]
[Footnote 40: This instrument appears to resemble the _fishgig_ in use
among the natives of New South Wales.--_Translator._]
[Footnote 41: Dr. Wilson, in his valuable work on Australia, remarks
that the natives of the north coast of Australia are also sufferers
from this disease.--_Translator._]