THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.
Departure for the Island Maling.--Laboba Island.--Productive
Fishery.--Heavy Dew on the Island Wau.--Arrival at the Village of
Maktia.--Occurrences there.--One of the Crew severely wounded.--Return
towards Vordate.--Return of the Envoys to Serra.--Want of
Water.--Poisonous Beans.--Death of the wounded Man.--Return to
the Brig.--Arrival of the Chiefs of Serra.--Transactions at
Vordate.--Departure from the Tenimber Islands.--Arrival at Amboyna.
After having passed the night on the island Teen, under the coast of
Timor-Laut, we pursued our voyage early on the morning, and passed
through a number of small islands, without meeting with any occurrence
worthy of remark. Turtle of an enormous size often made their
appearance on the surface, and trepang lay on the banks in the greatest
abundance. The greater number of the islands are rocky, with trees upon
them; but these had almost entirely lost their leaves, owing to great,
heat and want of rain. There are numerous channels through the shoals
which fill this part of the sea, but they are so small and crooked that
the navigation proves very difficult. The larger vessels, which pass to
and from Serra, keep to the westward of the course we pursued.
Towards noon the falling of the tide prevented us from proceeding,
and we therefore landed on Maling island, a little to the eastward of
Laboba, the latter island being distinguished from the others by a
peaked hill, raised about seven hundred feet above the level of the
sea, from the summit of which we saw the land of Timor-Laut over the
tops of the numerous small islands lying to the eastward. Laboba is
rocky, but covered with trees; and a stream of fresh water exists on
the east side, running down from the hill. A number of islands and
reefs lie to the westward of this island, shutting it in from the open
sea. The vessel of the son of the Orang Kaya, which accompanied us, was
unable to keep way with our boats, and did not arrive until two hours
after us.
After we had landed, I permitted the crew to haul the seine, and at two
draughts we obtained abundance of very delicate flavoured fish. We met
with no game, however, except numbers of sea-mews, which roosted on the
island at night, their days being employed in seeking sustenance over
the adjacent waters.
Towards evening we again continued, having arranged that the Orang Kaya
should await our arrival at the point of Maktia, a spot about twenty
miles distant from Serra, that he might procure fresh water for us from
the adjacent village. He expected to be there before us, as he purposed
running close along the coast of the main island, which the small
draft of his vessel would enable him to do, and there, during calms or
contrary winds, he would find no difficulty in pushing his vessel along
by means of long bamboos.
The light of the full moon enabled us to continue rowing throughout
the night, but the shallowness of the water prevented our reaching
Maktia Point, and forced us to remain at Wau Island until the tide
should rise. So heavy a dew fell during the night, that we were all
wet through before morning. This had a very injurious effect on the
health of my fellow-voyagers; M. Dielwaart and myself being afflicted
with dreadful pains in the stomach, while many of the seamen were
attacked with the same disease, or with agues. The Orang Kaya had spent
the night upon one of the other islands, and joined us in the morning,
when we proceeded as fast as the wind would permit towards Maktia, as
we already began to feel the want of water. I had now hopes of having
an interview with the inhabitants of Timor-Laut, and of being of some
service to them.
When seen from a distance, the ten or twelve houses which form the
village present a pretty appearance. The mud bank, which fronts the
shore, is dry at low water to the distance of a mile to seaward, but
the state of the tide permitted us to advance within musket range of
the beach, where the boats grounded; and as no harm could ensue, they
were permitted to lie in the mud. The Orang Kaya sent one of his men on
shore, who would not enter the village, but called to the inhabitants
from a distance. The village appeared to be abandoned, for we saw no
one but two unarmed men who were leaving it.
Although neither the Orang Kaya nor myself suspected the inhabitants of
any bad intentions, I judged it advisable for us to be on our guard.
I therefore, in the first place, sent a detachment of armed seamen,
accompanied by the people of the Orang Kaya, into the forest beside the
village, to search for water, but they returned without having found
any. As the Orang Kaya assured me that water would be found within the
village, I sent the men in, and they succeeded in obtaining two bamboos
full. They saw no one in the village, and in accordance with my orders
did not enter any of the houses, but returned straight to the beach,
and kindled a fire to cook some rice and other provisions. I, also,
went on shore to obtain an interview with the natives if possible, but
not meeting with any one, I caused a small flag and a piece of cloth
to be brought from the boat and hung up to one of the trees. At this
moment two unarmed men made their appearance at a distance, and I had
scarcely returned to the beach for the purpose of entering the boat,
when several arrows were shot from the thicket, one of which struck J.
Moll, one of the seamen who were collecting wood. He immediately threw
away his arms, and called out for assistance, on which he was carried
into the boat, while two of his comrades ran into the thicket to search
for the offender, but without meeting with success.
It was a fortunate circumstance that the fears of the natives induced
them to run away immediately after this transaction, for their
unexpected attack caused great confusion among us. Two inexperienced
seamen left their arms on the beach, and ran to the boats, but I caused
two others to take them up, and post themselves near the forest: the
natives, however, did not make their appearance.
The wounded seaman had left his arms behind in the forest. I sent
several men to obtain them, some shots being previously fired to
prevent their being again attacked. They found the weapons untouched,
and also picked up several of the arrows that had been shot at us. The
wounded man was laid down in the boat, and taken as much care of as
possible. One arrow had struck him in the right knee, and another had
entered the right buttock; the last wound bleeding very much, creating
great weakness, and producing a pain in the heart. The arrows possessed
flat iron points, like those I have previously described.
The Orang Kaya wished me to take his men, fifteen in number, and the
seamen, for the purpose of burning the village; but being unwilling
to act with hostility, I told him that the Government had recommended
me to pursue peaceable measures only, and that I should leave them to
punish the villagers. I judged it unadvisable to pursue the course
he proposed, particularly as the burning of the village would injure
the natives but little, while we, with our small force of only ten
Europeans and some Javanese seamen, would be by far the greatest
sufferers, were any of our people to be killed or wounded. Shortly
after this we heard a gong beat in the forest, which the Orang Kaya
informed me was intended to call together their force, stating that
it was necessary for us to be on our guard. The water did not rise
sufficiently to float the boats until seven o'clock: during the
intermediate time we occasionally fired shots from the boat-gun, with
the view of cooling the ardour of the natives should they be inclined
to attack us.
Owing to the small amount of force at my disposal, the number of the
sick, and the helpless condition of the wounded seaman, whose life
could be saved only by prompt medical assistance, I deemed it best to
leave this place as soon as possible, the more from the occurrences at
Kalioba having given me cause for distrust.
To prevent the expedition from being entirely useless, I proposed to my
interpreter, De Haan, a man who had been in the habit of trading with
these people, and was much respected by them, that he, with the chief
interpreter and the Orang Kaya, should proceed to Serra, and acquaint
the chiefs of the intention I had had to visit them. I much regretted
that this wearisome journey had proved so fruitless, and only found
consolation in the hope that I should have inspired the chiefs of Serra
with a just idea of the interest our Government took in their affairs,
especially as Serra was one of the chief trading places, and most
populous island in these parts. Our goods were, therefore, removed from
the prahu, and the envoys stepped into her, taking with them a little
arrack and other articles, in order, if possible, to induce the chiefs
to visit us at Vordate. I was now forced to give up the hope of being
able to free the two English youths, who were in captivity among the
natives of Timor-Laut.
We rowed and sailed throughout the night, with the view of reaching
Laboba as speedily as possible, to obtain a supply of fresh water. The
wounded man grew worse, his pains being increased by continually lying
in a crooked position, from the small size of the boat, and not having
had his wounds properly dressed. At noon, on the 23rd, we landed in a
bay on the east side of this island, having tasted no water since the
previous evening, while for forty-eight hours previously no provisions
had been dressed, our sustenance during that period having consisted
of biscuit and sago bread. The stream of water, which descended from
the hill, was weak and troubled; but was, nevertheless, very acceptable
to us. The wounded man, who was wearied out with heat and thirst, was
taken on shore and laid under the shade of a tree, fresh bandages being
applied to his wounds. The fatigues we had undergone caused us to sleep
soundly under the trees, in spite of the furious bites of a number of
red ants.
Several of the men cooked and ate some beans they had found on the
island, but soon had cause to repent their temerity, as five of them
were carried into the boats afflicted with violent pains in the
intestines, from which they were relieved by strong vomiting. These
beans, which much resembled our _spersie_ beans, were of a yellow
colour, and covered with blue spots.
Towards evening we left the island, and ran close along the coast of
Timor-Laut, passing continually over banks and reefs, a fresh southerly
breeze pushing us rapidly along. An hour after midnight the unfortunate
seaman died, and on the following morning, when we reached the brig,
tired and hungry, his body was committed to the deep with the usual
ceremony of a naval funeral.
The Orang Kaya of Watidal, who had come here with several vessels to
purchase provisions, came on board to pay us a visit, and promised to
return in company with the other chiefs. I sent the Orang Tua David on
shore, to inform the chiefs of Vordate of my arrival, and to invite the
before-mentioned chief of Serra on board the brig.
I was prevented by indisposition from going on shore the following day,
although I was anxious to visit Aweer. As soon as I found myself in a
fit state to leave the vessel, I went round to the different villages,
and employed myself until the 29th with the affairs and differences
of their inhabitants, much patience being required for this duty, on
account of the number of disagreeable circumstances attending it.
A number of canoes came alongside daily, the owners bringing stock
and vegetables to dispose of for knives and brass wire. The chiefs
continually came on board for the purpose of begging something;
every article they saw attracted their cupidity, and they showed no
hesitation in asking for it.
Early in the morning of the 29th, the agreeable intelligence was
brought to me, that six large prahus were in sight, coming from the
direction of Larrat, which proved to belong to the chiefs of Serra,
who, with the interpreters I had sent to them, came alongside at eight
o'clock. At first they were afraid to come on board, but after I had
personally conversed with them they ran up the side, followed by their
numerous retinue, and were received by me with the greatest friendship.
They expressed their regret at the event that had occurred at Maktia,
and assured me that if I would stay a short time, they would place the
offenders in my hands, and that they would revenge the disgrace that
had been cast upon them all in a most summary manner. I told them,
however, that the moderation I had shown towards the people of Maktia,
afforded a strong proof of the kind disposition of our Government,
while I hoped that such a misdeed would never be committed again. The
number of my visitors being too great for all to be entertained on
board, the meeting was adjourned to the shore, where the prahus of the
newcomers were hauled up on the beach. As I wished to detain them at
Vordate until our departure, that they might become acquainted with
the mode of proceeding adopted by the officers of our Government, I
permitted rice and other provisions to be distributed among them during
their stay.
The report given by the interpreters of the reception they had met with
at Serra, gave me great satisfaction, and made me regret having been
unable to proceed there in person. I went on shore at high water with
the usual ceremonies, and after having read the Government letter to
the assembled chiefs, and distributed the presents, I conversed with
them concerning the occurrence on Timor-Laut, at which they expressed
much regret. They also promised that henceforward they would be more
circumspect in their transactions with the foreign traders, and would
themselves visit Banda during the present year for commercial purposes.
A number of large jonkos went this year to Baba, Luan, Lette, and
others of the islands to the westward, for the purpose of exchanging
gold and calicoes for rice, sago and other products.
Among the chiefs of the island Serra, who were installed this day, was
one called Linum, who was appointed as chief Orang Kaya of Walusa. I
gave him a silver-knobbed baton, and a large Dutch flag, presenting the
others with certificates of appointment. It appeared to me, upon the
whole, that the people showed but little respect for the authority of
the chiefs. I conversed with them on this subject, explaining to them
the duties of the governors and the governed, and had the satisfaction
of seeing that my discourse made a lively impression upon them. I
shall pass over in silence the difficulties I experienced, in giving
these ignorant men a clear knowledge of the mode of proceeding adopted
by our Government, and in making them appreciate the value of the
philanthropic views of our rulers.
I never met with greater beggars than these people. Although the
presents I distributed among them were of greater value than those
which had been given on the other islands, some of the former
chiefs had the barefacedness to ask for clothes and other articles,
notwithstanding my having repeatedly told them that they ought to be
contented with what they had received.
The chiefs of Serra and Sebeano returned with me on board, to taste the
so-much esteemed arrack. I caused the interpreter to purchase some hogs
and goats for the seamen, at a tolerably high price.
Early on the following day I sent Lieutenant Bruining on shore with
thirty men to march to Aweer, (the boats being too small to convey
them), while I proceeded direct to the spot at which we had formerly
assembled, between Awena and Romian. On landing, the people of the
neighbouring villages, together with those of Serra, collected around
us; and I employed myself until four o'clock in the afternoon, in
transacting the business connected with my mission; when I informed
the assembly of my proposed departure for Amboyna, and left them with
the pleasing conviction, that our visit to these islands had not only
been of great service, but had given the highest satisfaction to their
inhabitants. The chiefs accompanied me on board, and expressed their
thanks for the kindness shown to them by the Government, promising also
to obtain the freedom of the two English youths on Timor-Laut, and to
bring them to Banda.
On the 30th of September, after having rewarded the Orang Tua David,
and the crew of the prahu that had been in our service, with some
_baftas_, knives, parangs, brass wire, plates, &c., we took leave of
our native friends, and weighed anchor to return to Banda, at which
place we arrived on the 3rd of October. We here landed the pilot,
Ali-Ali, and after a short stay continued our voyage to Amboyna,
arriving there on the 8th. The reader will readily conceive how
rejoiced we were, after so long an absence, to set foot again on the
beautiful island of Amboyna, where we were received by our families
and friends with lively congratulations. In addition to the pleasure
which this reception gave me, I had the satisfaction of finding my
exertions approved of by the Governor of the Moluccas, M.P. Merkus,
by which respected and hospitable officer I was invited to reside at
his country-house of Batu-Gadja. My agreeable residence there caused
me soon to forget the fatigues I had undergone, so that I soon after
undertook new expeditions to Ternate, Monado, and other places, the
description of which I shall pass over, those being places tolerably
well known, and proceed to give the reader an account of my second
voyage to the parts which form the subject of my work.