THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.
Visit to Watidal.--Respect shown to the Dutch Flag.--The English
supposed by the Natives to be _Orang-gunung_, or Mountaineers.--The
Prosperity of the People inseparable from the Rule of the Dutch over
these Countries.--Traces of the Christian Religion having formerly
obtained here.--Departure from Larrat to Vordate.--Allurements of
the latter Island.--The Inhabitants of the Tenimber Islands.--Their
Manners and Customs.--Mode of Warfare.--Striking Proofs of their
Attachment to the Dutch Government.
The English, during their short possession of the Moluccas, sent a
British flag to the people of Watidal, who had preserved it well, but
without making any use of it. When I demanded the reason of this, I
was answered that they plainly perceived that this was not a Company's
flag, and that they would not recognize any other nation than the Dutch
as their allies. Their ideas of the different European nations are
very singular. From their questions, it appeared that they considered
the _Orang Compania_ (the Dutch) only as true white people, and that
they were unacquainted with other Europeans. They asked me if the
English were not the inland mountaineers, or _Orang Gunung_, like the
inhabitants of Timor-laut, and other barbarous people.
The natives call themselves "_Anak Compania_," literally, Children
of the Company; and they often expressed to me their surprise at the
difficulties the traders who arrived at the island, threw in their way
to prevent them from visiting Banda. They also expressed themselves
much discontented at the arbitrary mode of trading adopted by the
native merchants from Banda, which had often necessitated them to be
their own judges, as they dared not nourish a hope that the Dutch would
again visit and defend them. This state of affairs caused them to
retrograde in point of civilization, as by continually taking revenge
for offences committed against them, they themselves have become wild
and rapacious, so much so that the Tenimber islanders are in bad repute
among their neighbours, being considered as dangerous characters. They
absolutely prohibited the Macassar traders from coming to the islands,
because the numbers in which these arrived gave rise to a fear on the
part of the inhabitants, that the traders would bring them under their
power, and treat them in an arbitrary manner, which, as they said, took
place too often already. It will readily be supposed, that it cost me
much time and trouble to induce the natives to renew their intercourse
with these people, and at the same time it will be perceived how much
extortion these simple, though numerous, islanders have been subjected
to since they lost the protection of the Dutch Government.
A Dutch garrison in these islands, although giving rise to an increased
government expenditure, would contribute greatly to extend the trade
of the Moluccas, and at the same time effect a humane object; for,
owing to the want of Dutch protection, the inhabitants of the Tenimber
Islands will be led to follow the example set them by their rapacious
visitors. Their desire to be governed by representatives of our
Government, is as great as that of the natives of the other islands,
and they would willingly afford them the necessary maintenance and
shelter.
I could not discover precisely at what period the Christian religion
obtained in these islands; but from having found some old Bibles among
them, coupled with other circumstances, I was convinced that it had
existed at some earlier period. I did not meet with an idol in any
of their villages. When saying their prayers they look up towards
heaven, in acknowledgment of a Supreme Being; but, as is usual among
uncivilized people, their religious ideas are coupled with the wildest
superstition. They are by no means averse to our religion, but, on the
contrary, express their willingness to adopt it. The firm resistance
they have made to the endeavours of the Mohammedan priests to convert
them is very praise-worthy, these never meeting with the least success
in their exertions. The people of Tenimber could never, I think, be
prevailed on to abstain from pork and spirituous liquors, and it is
possible that this is one of the reasons for their aversion to Islamism.
It soon came to my knowledge, that some serious differences had
occurred between some of the villages on Vordate, which had already
caused an appeal to arms. This spread general dejection among the
natives, as it entirely put a stop to the trepang fishery, the chief
source of their prosperity.
I used my utmost endeavours to induce some of the natives to visit
Timor-laut, in order to apprise the natives of my arrival, and, if
possible, to free the two English youths who had been saved from the
brig, the loss of which I have previously mentioned, but without
success. It appeared that they were at war with the people of
Timor-laut, and considered their force too small to afford hope of
success: this reason appeared to me so conclusive, that I could not
urge them farther. To proceed directly thither in person would not only
be acting against my instructions, but the smallness of the force at
my disposal rendered such a proceeding very unadvisable. Neither could
the boats attached to the brig, be of the least service in such an
expedition.
After having been employed the entire day, according to my
instructions, in attending to the affairs of the natives, the squally
appearance of the sky in the evening, made me determine to return to
the brig, leaving my clerk and the interpreters to obtain further
information. I had scarcely got on board when a heavy squall from the
land brought our bower-anchor home. The brig swung off, and hung by
the kedge; but this also broke before the bower-anchor had been hove
up, and, as we drifted off the bank immediately, it became necessary to
get the brig under sail. I therefore made a signal for those on shore,
who returned immediately; and as this was evidently an unfit place for
the brig to remain in, while it was still more unadvisable to stand
off and on, from the probability that existed of our being set on the
reefs, I stood at once towards Vordate, which we had previously passed
by owing to the assertions of our pilot, hoping we might find good
shelter there.
Early on the following morning we found ourselves close under the shore
of that island, when the boats were sent away to find anchorage; and I
was soon rejoiced by seeing the signal made which had been determined
on, in the event of their search being successful. I now chose our
anchorage close to the reef, and carried a cable on shore, which was
made fast to the trees on the middle of the bank. The bower-anchor lay
in thirty fathoms sand, while the brig was not more than three quarters
of a cable's length from the reef; rather too little room, perhaps, but
the situation did not appear to me as being dangerous, as the wind
always blows steadily off shore, and there was not sufficient current
to swing the brig on to the reef. A considerable period elapsed,
however, before we could bring the brig up, as the sand proved to be
bad holding-ground. The anchor dragged twice, and it was not until the
third attempt, when a warp had been carried on shore, that we succeeded
in making all fast. Several vessels, containing some of the principal
inhabitants, came rowing round the ship, on which I invited them on
board, and, receiving them with all possible friendship, cursorily
acquainted them with the object of my visit.
When seen from this side, the island appears hilly. The frontage
is covered with vegetation, and bears the appearance of possessing
uncommon fertility. Even the sides of the high hills were laid out
in beautiful gardens, the groves of cocoa-nut, and other large trees
that separated them, between which might often be perceived the
dwellings of the cultivators, presenting an agreeable variety to the
prospect. The splendid landscape that opened before us, the majesty of
the forest-crowned hills, the picturesque beauty of the entire tract
of country, and the luxuriant growth of the vegetation, altogether
offered too striking a view for my feeble pen to describe.
The north-east side of the island is uninhabited. On the north-west
side lie the villages of Sebiano and Adodo; while the south coast is
occupied by the villages of Ameer, Ewena and Romian. The only anchorage
is on the north-west side of the island, every other part being
surrounded by reefs, through which it is difficult to pass even with
boats at low water.
The inhabitants of the various islands of the Tenimber group bear much
resemblance to each other, in language, customs and other particulars.
They are usually well formed, and possess a fairer complexion than
most of their neighbours, while their features display few of the
characteristics of the inhabitants of the Indian Archipelago generally,
being more in accordance with those of Europeans, to whom they would
bear much resemblance were it not for the dark colour of their
complexion. In point of stature the women are superior to those of
the neighbouring island; the young ones especially, are uncommonly
handsome, their beauty being much increased by their simple mode of
dress instead of by fashionable attire, their costume consisting only
of a small piece of blue cloth worn round the waist. Men as well as
women wear several ornaments, such as gold and silver rings, of their
own manufacture, suspended from their ears, each of which is pierced
with several holes. The women are very partial to necklaces and
bracelets of small red beads, which, indeed, add much to their graceful
appearance.
The heaviest portion of the labour is performed by the women, the men
devoting themselves to warlike pursuits, the chase, the fishery and
commerce. Early in the morning the young unmanned women, under the
escort of three or four armed men, depart for the plantations in the
interior, and at sunset in the evening they may be seen returning,
laden with the produce of their labour, which they bear in baskets
upon the head. The married and elderly women, usually remain at home,
where they employ themselves in household affairs, tending the stock,
and preparing the meals. On the marriage of a young woman, she adorns
her ankles with one or two copper rings, which make a ringing noise
at every step, by no means disagreeable to the ear. These singular
ornaments give them a peculiar halting gait, the rings being from two
and a half to three pounds weight.[37] Some are carved with various
figures.
The natives of the lower class usually go entirely naked, only the
chiefs and heads of families, with those who have visited foreign
parts, wearing any clothing.
Their warlike equipment is very singular. Like the Ceramese, and other
Indian nations, they have their warriors or champions, who, when
preparing for war, anoint their heads abundantly with cocoa-nut oil,
and mix large bunches of loose hair with their own, which they raise
up in a towering manner by means of a large bamboo comb, adorned with
cock's feathers of various colours, to give them a fear-inspiring
appearance. Their hair is also confined by bands of coloured cloth,
studded with red beads, and ornamented with hanging shells. Round the
middle they wear a piece of dried buffalo's hide by way of armour, to
which is suspended their knife and their _klewang_ or cutlass. Large
golden rings are attached to the ears; the neck is protected by a
thick collar, studded with white shells; the costume of the warrior
being completed by bands of ivory, worked over with beads, worn on the
arms.
When they go to war with their neighbours all other occupations are
neglected, and they employ themselves in wandering through the forest,
watching for opportunities to carry off the enemy's women. Occasionally
the warriors call each other out, when a skirmish takes place; but
their warlike propensities are chiefly exercised in plundering, and in
waylaying the enemy when employed in his plantations or at the fishery,
but never coming to a regular open fight. More _sagoweer_, or palm
wine, is drank at this time than at any other, the cocoa-nut trees
being put to no other use than to supply the ingredients. Before the
tree bears fruit the blossom is enclosed in a case, the bottom of which
is cut every day, and an earthern pot, or a piece of hollow bamboo,
placed under to catch the sap, which, when fermented, acquires an
intoxicating power.
As on the islands visited during the previous part of the voyage, there
existed here differences, and wars arising from insignificant causes,
enduring for years, and never adjusted except by the accidental
mediation of traders or others from the neighbouring countries. Pride,
jealousy and exasperation prevent either party from taking the first
step towards reconciliation. Several examples of this will be given in
the ensuing pages.
Until late in the evening the arrival and departure of natives from
the shore never ceased. I sent my interpreters on shore to make known
the object of my visit in the various villages, and to call the chiefs
together to a general meeting. On the following morning one of the
boats, armed with two one-pounder guns, was sent in advance to the
village of Aweer, on the south-west point of the island, and I followed
soon after in another boat, accompanied by the gentlemen attached to
the commission. On stepping ashore we were saluted by a salvo from the
guns of the boat sent in advance, and were received with friendship
by a large concourse of natives clad in their war dresses. We first
entered the village of Aweer, where women and children, as well as
men, assembled around us, which, as I have previously remarked, always
affords an undoubted proof of friendship and confidence on the part of
the natives. We were much struck by the neatness of this village, and
the large amount of its population. We perceived no less than a hundred
handsome huts, built in the manner previously described.
The curiosity of the natives was very great, which is not very
surprising when it is considered that we were probably the first
Europeans they had ever seen. They could scarcely be satisfied
with narrowly viewing us on all sides. The Orang Kaya of Aweer, a
very well-mannered young man, welcomed us with many expressions of
friendship; and his handsome young wife, to whom he had lately been
married, kindly tendered us some _sagoweer_ and _tuak_, or palm-wine.
From here I proceeded to the village Ewena, where we were also received
with much courtesy. This is the centre one of the three villages which
lie on this side of the island, and the least populous. Romian, the
third, is situated farther to the eastward, none of them being more
than a musket-shot apart. The latter village is equal to Aweer in point
of population.
This day having been fixed on for a preliminary meeting of the chiefs,
at which we might learn something of their social state, I was unable
to tarry long at either of the villages. In passing I charged the
chiefs to bring all their wars and contentions to an end, and announced
to them that I should enquire into the causes of their differences, and
make an equitable adjustment of them.
When I desired to proceed to Romian, they wished to restrain me,
stating that they would be apprehensive for my safety, as the
people of Romian from jealousy at my having previously visited the
other villages, would probably make an attack on me.[38] Even the
interpreters were afraid to go there, until something more had been
learned concerning them. As I was aware, however, of the high respect
with which the natives in general view the Company, whom they regard
as their benefactors and allies, I went confidently towards the people
drawn up under arms, accompanied only by two unarmed seamen waving
the Dutch flag in front, a proceeding which the assembled multitude
witnessed with astonishment and alarm, not being able to conceive how
I dared to undertake it, without previously obtaining hostages for my
safety.
As I had expected, I was received with frankness and enthusiasm, and
admitted into the village with shouts of joy. Old and young, men
and women, viewed me as their deliverer in the need, and the welkin
rang with the cry of "_Salamat datang, Tuda Compania!_" (Welcome!
representative of the Company!)
In a few words I informed them of the object of the Government in
sending me here, and testified to them my anxious desire to establish
peace among them, to effect which they requested my assistance. On my
assuring them that the people of the other villages would lay down
their arms, they promised on their part to refrain from hostilities,
and to await with peace and quietness the effects of my intervention. I
also requested them to give free admission to my interpreters and the
other officials, that they might pursue the necessary enquiry.
In the mean time, I caused the presents which had been brought for
each village to be taken from the boats, and ordered the armed seamen
to approach; after which I permitted the letter of the Government to
be solemnly read and explained to them, and distributed the presents
to the chiefs. After having promised to come back and settle their
differences, I returned to Ewena and Aweer, where the presents of the
Government were also distributed, and received with great thankfulness;
the people expressing their sense of the kindness of the Company, and
stating anew how ardently they had longed for the return and assistance
of the Dutch Government, and how fortunate they would esteem themselves
were they again to be recognized as "_Anak Compania_," or children of
the Company. What may we not do with such people?
The day was spent in examining into their differences, and in
transacting the business which had been entrusted to me by the
Government; and towards evening I returned on board, promising to pay
them another visit on the following day.
I was able to leave these villages with much satisfaction, as I had
had another opportunity of seeing how ineffaceably the old Dutch
Government is fixed in the memories of these people; and also, as I had
had the good fortune to effect something towards promoting the welfare
of my fellow-men. The thought of having, by timely intervention, put
a stop to wars, murders, and running away with women, afforded me
more pleasure than I can express. This thought caused me to disregard
all difficulties, and encouraged me cordially to assist with my best
advice, this uncivilized, but, at the same time, uncorrupted and simple
people.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 37: The very young girls also wear a similar ornament, but it
is much lighter, being made of thick brass wire.]
[Footnote 38: It must here be remarked, that I had not yet conversed
with any of the people of Romian, and was therefore unacquainted with
their disposition. As they lay so far from the brig, and were at war
with their neighbours, they were afraid to pay me a visit.]