THE ARRU ISLANDS.--THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.
Arrival at the Island Wadia.--Particulars concerning the Island
and its Inhabitants.--Dispute between them and the Orang Tua of
Fannabel.--Sad Result of their Contentions.--Departure from the Arru
Islands.--Arrival at the Tenimber Group.--Vordate.--Ignorance and
Perplexity of the Pilot.--Singular Customs.--Violent Conduct of the
People of Timor-Laut.--The Inhabitants of Watidal and their Chiefs.
We soon entered the narrow strait which separates the islands of Wassia
and Wadia, the last of which was the object of our visit. The people
of Wakan, Samau, and the other villages on the sea shore saluting us
with shots from their _lelahs_, which were answered by the brig with
several guns. Wassia, the north-westernmost of the Arrus, is overgrown
with underwood, and the coral reefs extend some distance from it on
all sides, preventing vessels from approaching the shore. The village
of Wadia is situated on the west side of the island of that name, on
the banks of a salt-water creek, several other villages being scattered
over the island.
As soon as we had anchored in the strait, in ten fathoms sand, about
four miles from the village of Wadia, the Orang Tuas of the island came
on board in two prahus, to bid us welcome. My interpreter accompanied
them on shore, to inform the chiefs that I should land the following
day to transact the business which had brought me here. With a view
to add as much solemnity as possible to my visit, I sent twenty-six
armed men on shore early in the morning, and soon after followed them
with the gentlemen attached to the expedition. After entering the
creek we passed a temple and a number of tombs, and soon arrived at
the village, which lies about a cable's length and a half from the
mouth. The houses, which stand separated from each other, are erected
on both sides of the river, but by far the greater number are to be
found on the right-hand side, the dwelling of the Orang Kaya forming a
conspicuous object among them.
On our approach to the river we were saluted with seven shots from a
one-pounder gun, which had been taken on shore from the brig, while our
men were drawn up on the beach to receive us with military honours,
the natives themselves saluting us with numerous shots from their
_lelahs_, and displaying several Dutch flags, which appeared to be of
their own manufacture. The _Orang Kaya_ welcomed us to his house with
many expressions of friendship, when we found that one-half of his
dwelling, (a new and rather large building, similar to that of the
Orang Kaya of Duryella), had been arranged for our reception, another
house having been appropriated for the accommodation of our men. As
the house of the Orang Kaya is usually the place where the chiefs
assemble, we thought it most advisable to take up our quarters in a
small building which had been occupied by the foreign traders, but was
now empty.
The population of Wadia is composed of Mohammedans, so that I did not
perceive among the chiefs the same affection towards the Netherland's
Government which those of the Christian islands displayed. On
conversing with them concerning the non-fulfillment of the promise
they made to M. Bik in 1824, to resort to Banda, I clearly discovered
that the Macassar traders had done all in their power to make them
fearful of us. These had made them believe that the sole object of our
Government consisted in increasing their revenue from imposts, and
many similar absurdities, which it cost me considerable difficulty to
drive from their minds. They also asserted, that owing to the small
amount of the population they dared not leave their villages for a
lengthened period, unless the Netherlands' Government should have a
post upon the Arru Islands.
This request for a Dutch Resident or Postholder, with a small garrison,
was made to me on all the islands, and the people appeared to be well
aware that it would contribute greatly to maintaining order among them,
and increasing their prosperity. Christians, Mahommedans and Arafuras,
all perfectly agreed in this particular.
The creek on which this village is situated, runs right through the
island. Both banks are low and marshy, and the depth of water in it
is very small; indeed, many parts are quite dry at low water. It is
abundantly stocked with fish, which, in fact, is the case everywhere
among the group. Live stock, on the other hand, is very scarce: pigs
are only kept by the Arafuras, the Mohammedans contenting themselves
with goats and fowls, which last are to be purchased at the rate of a
rupee each. With the exception of these there are no tame stock on
the islands. Wild hogs are abundant, but they are rarely hunted by the
natives.
The _pilandok_ is also to be met with, together with birds-of-paradise,
and immense numbers of cockatoos, red, green and black _loories_,
and other sorts of handsomely-plumaged birds. The Arafuras shoot the
birds-of-paradise with arrows, when they are opened, and deprived of
their entrails, and then wrapped in a thin leaf and hung to dry in the
smoke of their fires; this being the only preparation they require to
render them ready for exportation.
Sago and yams form the only vegetable productions which the island
affords. Rice is imported by the Macassars, and by the people of the
Ki and Goram Islands, who, on their part, obtain them from Banda. The
people have but few wants. Their dwellings are mean, and their sole
property consists in slaves, muskets, lelahs, gongs and elephants'
tusks. The first are obtained chiefly from New Guinea, and from the
back parts of the group.
The people of Wadia, and of the western islands of the Arru group
in general, are very desirous of obtaining the imitation blue, red
and black calicoes,[34] especially the last sort manufactured in
the Netherlands. Square checked, or closely flowered chintzes, are
also much in demand. These goods, however, would be too fine for the
Arafuras of the back of the group, who only care for those of coarser
materials, such as coarse chintzes, blue and white _salempoors_, red
coast-calicoes, red baftas, Samanap sarongs, axes, parangs, chopping
knives, brass wire, coarse Chinese porcelain, arrack, aniseed, gongs,
elephants' tusks, small red beads and other trifles of a similar
description.
The inhabitants of the western parts of the group carry on a constant
bartering trade among the group; the long and light vessels previously
described, which are from twelve to sixteen tons burthen, being
employed in transporting the goods from island to island. The period
which elapses between the cessation of one monsoon and the commencement
of the other, is the fittest period for these voyages. They are
fearful, however, of going to Banda or Amboyna, not only from the
reasons already given, but from a dread that the Government would
chastise them for some deeds they had committed. I endeavoured, as much
as lay in my power, to banish this idea from their minds, promising
them forgiveness on the part of the Government; and my exertions were
attended with so much success, that during the following year, while I
was remaining at Amboyna, a greater number of their vessels arrived at
that place, and also at Banda, than had been the case previously.
The inhabitants of the villages on Wadia profess the Mohammedan
religion. In point of numbers they are far inferior to the Christians
of the neighbouring islands, with whom they live on very good terms,
and like them consider themselves as subjects to the Dutch Government,
although they appear to be more restless in their characters than the
others. A difference had long existed between the people of Wadia
and the _Orang Tua_ of Fannabel; and the _Orang Kaya_ of Wokan, with
the minor chiefs of that island, had followed me hither to assist in
inquiring into and deciding the dispute.
After I had made known to the inhabitants the philanthropic and humane
object of our Government, they gave me many proofs of their wishes to
pursue a proper course. I was subsequently petitioned to examine into
and decide the affair of the Orang Tua of Fannabel, which, from the
evidence given by both parties, appeared to be as follows:--
The Orang Tua of Fannabel possessed a stone building, defended by
cannon, on the north-east side of Wokan, and being a skilful trader
he soon increased his property until he became one of the wealthiest
men in the islands. This aroused the envy of the people of Wadia,
of which island the Orang Tua had formerly been an inhabitant. On
the occasion of the marriage of one of his daughters, there arose a
difference between a native of Fannabel and another of Wadia, of so
violent a nature, that each threatened to take the life of the other
on the first opportunity. Some time after this, a number of the people
of Wadia visited Wokan to assist the _Orang Kaya_ in the construction
of a church, and on their return home, one of the parties engaged in
the above-mentioned quarrel, with four others, were murdered in their
prahu. The offenders, who were soon after taken, declared that they had
been paid for committing the deed by the people of Fannabel, on which
those of Wadia, without enquiring farther into the matter, went to the
house of the Orang Tua of Fannabel during his absence, and by way of
taking revenge for the murder, they shot several of his family, took
away the remainder as slaves, and then plundered and burned the house.
The Orang Tua, on his return to his home, seeing the destruction that
had taken place, fled to Wokan, where he was received with hospitality.
The Orang Kaya of that place, however, considering that he was not
sufficiently powerful to obtain redress for his friend by force, and
being also unwilling to go to war with the people of Wadia, commenced
negotiations, by which means a portion of the stolen property was
returned.
This affair had taken place four years previous to my visit. The
ill-treated Orang Tua assured me that he often thought of visiting
Banda to obtain redress through the interposition of the Government,
but had always been withheld by the hope that the latter would again
take possession of the Arru Islands, in which case he would have
brought the case before them, although he was himself aware that it
would be difficult, if not impossible, to obtain back all the goods of
which he had been plundered.
At the assembly which had been called together strong debates took
place, which lasted until four o'clock. Some of the arguments put forth
will tend to show their erroneous ideas of right and equity. A man
who had carried off three of the Orang Tua's slaves, was unwilling to
return more than one, or at most two, wishing to keep the remainder to
pay for the maintenance of the whole. I explained to another, that as
there was not the least proof of any offence on the part of the Orang
Tua of Fannabel (they themselves holding him guiltless of the murder
which had been committed,) while he had already suffered severely from
the loss of his son, and of all his goods, it was nothing but just
that he should have every thing possible restored to him. "Here,"
answered he, "are four of our family slain in their prahu; we must
therefore have redress from somebody, no matter whom." At length it was
determined, that a portion of the goods should be restored, and several
gongs, elephants' tusks and slaves were immediately given up.
After I had thus changed the inveterate hatred into friendship, and
had settled some other differences, I appointed a certain Abdul Wahab
as their Orang Kaya, to the universal satisfaction of the people, and
ceremoniously installed him in his office.
During our stay here I examined the neighbourhood of the village, and
met with some former strongholds, the remains of which proved that they
must have been extensive. We also found the traces of a long street,
enclosed by walls, running east and west through the village, together
with the ruins of many stone houses. The natives could give us no clear
information concerning them.
On the 8th of September we made ready for our departure. When our
people were on the point of embarking in the boats, the above-mentioned
Orang Tua of Fannabel came to me to complain that the four slaves had
not yet been given up to him, and that if we departed before this
took place he would never get them back. I therefore caused it to be
announced to the defaulter, that if he did not perform his contract
I would take the slaves from his house by force, on which they were
immediately given up. After having impressed him with a sense of the
injustice and impropriety of conduct he had been guilty of, I caused
my interpreter to draw up, in Arab characters, a solemn agreement
of mutual reconciliation and friendship, which was signed by both
parties, who promised in my presence that they would henceforward live
together in amity.
The Orang Kaya, with all his chiefs, accompanied us on board, and took
a friendly farewell of us, after having received some presents of
coffee and arrack. On the same day we left our anchorage off Wadia,
and stood to the southward under press of sail, towards the Tenimber
Islands.
The day after our departure we sighted the island Vordate to the
south-west. From a distance of about twenty miles on this side, this
island appears alternately hilly and flat, like irregular mountains,
while the neighbouring islands, Larrat, Timor-laut, &c., have a more
level appearance. Several reefs extend a considerable distance to
seaward from the south-east end of the island.
We continued during the night under easy sail, and the following
morning, under the guidance of the pilot, we passed along the west side
of Vordate, at a distance of about six miles from the shore. Off the
north point, a mile to seaward, lies a rock, for which reason the point
must not be made free with. The villages, in which were displayed a
number of small flags, alternating with the fertile valleys, presented
an alluring picture to us. As we passed a number of prahus came rowing
towards us, the people in which called out to us to anchor off their
village. The pilot, however, affirming that there was good anchorage
near Larrat, we continued our course without accepting the invitation
of the islanders. We crossed the extensive reef of Larrat in irregular
depths of three, four and five fathoms, and ran along the north-west
coast towards the mouth of a bay, which is formed between the island of
Larrat and the point of Timor-laut.
On approaching the entrance of the bay, I clearly perceived that there
was no possibility of the brig being able to enter. On perceiving
this, the pilot, as is usual with natives under similar circumstances,
became completely cast down, and all that I could learn from him was
that he had never visited the island before except during the westerly
monsoon, and then only in small vessels which they could row over the
reefs. This was all very true; but had he only given me the slightest
idea of the situation of the bay, I should certainly not have come
here; but it was now necessary to make a virtue of necessity, and come
to a speedy determination. The wind blew directly out of the mouth of
the bay, which was very narrow, so that there was no possibility of
working in. We could obtain no bottom with the deep-sea lead and one
hundred fathoms of line, while we were everywhere surrounded by shoals.
I therefore sent the boats to lie on the edge of the coral reef which
fronts the village of Watidal, and then stood on, hoping that our
anchor might hook a rock and hold fast; but, although the anchor was
let go in four fathoms water, it had dragged into twelve fathoms before
the ship was brought up, while under the stern there was thirty-eight
fathoms. A kedge was then carried out astern, to prevent the tide from
swinging the ship on to the reef.
Before the sails could be furled, or the boarding nettings spread, the
brig was surrounded on all sides by a number of canoes, and I had no
sooner given permission to a couple of natives to come on board, than
the others all followed, so that, in a less space of time than five
minutes, the brig was full of men, who had crept on board through the
ports and every place where they could find admission. With a view to
inspire them with confidence I permitted them to enter, and received
them in as friendly a manner as possible, the distribution of some
glasses of arrack among them contributing not a little to produce the
desired effect.
The village off which we had anchored, like all on these islands, was
erected on a hill of limestone rock, near the sea shore. These villages
present a very picturesque appearance: they consist, according to
their population, of from twenty to fifty houses, erected near each
other, upon piles from six to eight feet high. These dwellings are
from twenty to twenty-five feet long by twelve to fifteen broad. They
are enclosed on all sides, and have a couple of long holes cut in the
walls to serve for windows. The roofs are covered with a thatch of palm
leaves, these being first arranged on small sticks, and then placed
neatly on the roof, overlapping each other. The interior is usually
kept in good order; but every part is blackened with smoke from the
fires they employ in cooking their provisions. The house is entered
by a door in the centre of the floor, to which the inhabitants ascend
by means of a ladder. Against the wainscoat, immediately fronting
the door, is placed a small scaffold of carved wood, having upon it a
large dish, containing the skull of one of the forefathers of the owner
of the house, whose weapons are also hung around it. These consist
of bows made of bamboo, bound round with thread, and provided with
strings of buffalo hide, and of arrows three feet and a half long,
made of thin reed or rattan, with sharp iron points. With these they
are able to bring down a hen or other bird at the distance of sixty
or seventy paces, rarely or never missing their mark. In addition to
these weapons they have muskets, lances with iron points, old swords
and long parangs. These last, which they obtain from the Ceramese and
Macassars, have their handles covered with sharks' skin, and ornamented
with handsome shells, a small metal bell being usually appended to it.
The combs and necklaces of the inhabitants, which I shall describe more
fully when speaking of their mode of dress, are also displayed on this
stage. Round the interior of the house against the wall is erected a
framework, a foot and a half from the floor, which serves for beds by
night and for seats by day. These are occupied chiefly by the women,
the men squatting down on the floor in the centre of the room.
On the right side of the entrance is placed a clay fire-place,
supported by a wooden stand, on which the provisions of the inmates are
cooked, these last being kept upon a large shelf above the fire-place.
Their more valuable property is hung around on the wall, or preserved
under the benches which line the wall. Upon the whole, their dwellings
present an appearance of greater neatness than those of the inhabitants
of the islands to the westward.
Before reaching the village it is necessary to pass the spot where
their dead is deposited, the interment of whom is attended with
several curious ceremonies. The body is wrapped in cloth, usually
coarse Mirzapore chintz, and put into a coffin made of rough planks,
fastened with wooden pins, a dish being placed under the head. The
coffin is then taken to the burial ground, and wrapped round with the
above-mentioned coarse chintz, after which it is deposited on a stage
raised four or five feet from the ground. A piece of Mirzapore chintz,
fastened to a long bamboo stick, is hoisted over the burial place,
and a paling is erected round it, on which are hung baskets containing
fruits, cooked yams, fowls, rice and other provisions, which are
occasionally renewed. The heat of the sun, and the rains, soon cause
the chintz in which the coffin has been enveloped, to decay and fall
off, but it is immediately renewed, and another dish placed under the
skull. Should the body be that of a rich man, or of the relative of one
of the village chiefs, the skull is removed to the house, and placed in
a conspicuous spot, as I have before mentioned. If, on the other hand,
the body is that of a poor man, the remains are thrown together into a
cleft in a rock, or some such place, as soon as the coffin has decayed.
The bodies of malefactors are buried at once, without anything being
erected to mark the place of interment. The remains of human beings
are never to be seen scattered about, and it is extremely difficult
to obtain a skull from the natives. I have frequently seen the entire
skeleton through the sides of the coffin, when it has become full of
holes through age and decay. During still weather an intolerable smell
arises from these cemeteries; but the natives appear not to suffer the
least inconvenience from it.
The vessels of the natives are usually hauled up on the beach near
these burial places, and protected from the weather by sheds similar
to our boat-houses. These vessels are chiefly of the kind called
"_jonkos_," which are either built here or on the island Baba. They
are constructed of rough planks, fastened to each other by wooden
pins, and bound to the timbers with bands of rattan. Saws are never
employed in cutting the planks, neither are iron nails ever used in
the construction of their vessels. The sides of the _jonkos_ are held
apart by thwarts, upon which a deck of bamboos is laid, so that, when
complete, they may be considered as tight and seaworthy. The gunwale is
usually two or three feet above the level of the water. Their length
is from forty to fifty feet; breadth from ten to twelve feet; and they
carry from twelve to sixteen tons. A roof of _atap_ covers the whole.
Each village usually possesses two or three of these vessels, the
property of the entire community; but they have also numerous canoes
with outriggers, some of which are large enough to contain a thatched
habitation. These craft are employed in fishing, or in the transport of
goods from island to island.
On making enquiries concerning the trading vessels which came here, I
learned, among other things, that during the previous year a vessel
under the English flag had arrived at the east extremity of Timor-laut,
the master of which sent his boat on shore to purchase provisions,
giving out that he had been necessitated to visit the place from a
great mortality and sickness having occurred among his crew. In how far
this was the case, I will leave to the judgment of those who are aware
of the artifices of the English, in order to carry on a smuggling trade
in these parts,[35] and, above all, to import prohibited goods, such
as gunpowder and ammunition. Thus was the brig, in name (_dakleijen_),
loaded only with roofing slates and iron, but, in fact, she had a large
number of muskets, swords and other weapons on board. The captain
agreed with the natives to give weapons in exchange for stock, and
went on shore with half his crew, which consisted of ten Europeans.
In the mean time the natives considered this to be a fine opportunity
to overpower those who remained on board, and gain possession of the
vessel. They, therefore, boarded her unexpectedly in great numbers,
and murdered the people in her, while at the same time those on shore
were made away with, with the exception of two boys, who owed their
preservation to the interposition of the women. After this crime had
been committed, they hauled the brig on shore, stripped her of all they
could carry away, and burned her. The plundered goods were shared out
among the inhabitants, and part of them sold to the traders who visited
them, the remainder being kept, and now, perhaps, serving as finery for
the inhabitants of the east coast of Timor-laut. One of the village
chiefs stated to me on this occasion, that he had himself seen the
chain cable of the brig hanging around the village, and that two iron
carronades which had belonged to her lay there upon the ground, the
natives not having, yet mustered sufficient courage to fire them off.
I fixed the day subsequent to our arrival for a general meeting of the
people, at which I might make known the benevolent intentions of the
Government, and the object of my visit. One of the Orang Kayas of Serra
was accidentally here, making preparations for his return home, so that
I had a good opportunity of sending an invitation to all the chiefs of
that island to come and see me, as I could not promise with confidence
to visit them in their own villages.
We have already seen proofs of the desire shown by the natives
to adopt, in some particular or other, the mode of dress of our
countrymen. As may be supposed, they have no idea whatever of making
clothes, and this is the chief reason of their having such a ludicrous
appearance when clad in their European vestments. They were, therefore,
not a little delighted at finding that I had had several coats made on
board, of red, blue and green cloth, which I gave to them, in addition
to the Government presents. Garments of this description are not only
viewed as a dress of state, but are considered as distinguished tokens
of honour; and it will, therefore, readily be conceived that they
are preserved with the greatest care as heirlooms, and used only on
festive occasions.
Early on the morning of the 12th, I went on shore with a numerous
escort, and under the customary salute from the guns. In the middle of
the village of Watidal a booth had been erected, and covered with the
sails of vessels, under which were numerous seats of plank, the part
assigned to me, as Vakeel or Embassador of the Dutch Government, being
arranged with especial care, and covered with fine coloured calico.
Voluntary homage to our Government was apparent in all their actions.
The people not only filled the booth, but surrounded it on all sides,
leading me to believe that the entire population, young and old, were
present. The presents were received with the loudest expressions of joy
and thankfulness. The entire day was spent in installing the village
chiefs, and making arrangements for preserving peace and unity among
them. The villages are all independent of one another, each having its
own territory, consisting of a portion of land, and contiguous trepang
banks, and being governed by its own chief. So long, therefore, as
they respect the property of their neighbours, and live according to
the old usages of their forefathers, they remain in perfect peace with
each other. The upper chief, whom I appointed for Watidal, was an aged
man, not at all deficient in good sense and ability. He spoke very good
Malayan, although the language of the natives consists of a peculiar
dialect, in which point there is a remarkable difference between them
and the people of the neighbouring islands.
I could no where discover any remains which would point out that an
officer of the East India Company had resided here, whence I concluded
that the Dutch had not visited these islands for a long series of years.
The authority of our Government here was more necessary than one would
be led to suppose, from the state of society which exists among these
people. The chiefs are respected by the common men as the oldest,
the most experienced, and the richest among the inhabitants; they
are consulted when differences occur, and their decision is usually
respected; but they still want, to give force to their authority, an
act of appointment from our Government. The considerate reader, who
will already have perceived in the particulars previously related, how
fond these simple people are of outward show, will not be surprised to
find that such an installation is considered as an important epoch in
the history of their country, and that they wished to celebrate the day
on which they were visited by an officer of the Netherlands Government,
after so long a period of neglect, with all joy and solemnity, as a
national festivity.
The want of a formal act of appointment from the Dutch Government has
been attended with results very detrimental to the welfare of the
natives, especially those of Watidal. In the time of the Ceramese
Hongie-togten,[36] the chiefs of Watidal had been presented with
sticks provided with knobs, on which the arms of the Company were
engraven. This token of alliance with us was not sufficient to prevent
the covetous Ceramese from practising extortion upon them, and when
the chiefs complained openly to the Company, and stedfastly refused
all irregular contributions, the Ceramese did not hesitate to plunder
and rob them in open enmity. This would not have taken place had the
chiefs been appointed with more solemnity, and provided with regular
acts of appointment, in which case their subjects would have been more
subordinate to their control, and the Ceramese rovers would have been
withheld from plundering by dread of punishment.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 34: These are called imitation calicoes, from their being
European imitations of the pattern and material of the cotton
manufactures of India.--_Ed._]
[Footnote 35: In Marsden's Malayan Grammar, among the letters given
in the Appendix, will be found a remarkable example of these English
tricks. An English captain came to the King of Tringanu, with a
pretended letter of recommendation from the Governor-General of India;
asked permission to enter the river to repair, and smuggled several
chests of opium on shore!]
[Footnote 36: Expedition for the extirpation of the spice trees,
undertaken in the time of the old (Dutch) East India Company.]