THE ARRU ISLANDS.
Gathering of the People at Wokan.--Religious Exercises of
the People.--Their singular Mode of Dress.--The Church.--The
Fort.--State of Christianity on Wokan.--Dobbo, an important Trading
Place.--Commercial Advantages that may be gained there.--Valuable
Fishery.--The Pilandok.--Ludicrous alarm of the Arafuras.
On the following morning I informed the assembled chiefs of Wokan
of the object of my mission to those parts, namely, to take the
inhabitants under the protection of the Dutch Government; to renew the
mutual friendship which formerly existed between them;[31] to incite
them to carry on more trade, especially with Banda and Amboyna; to
confirm the chiefs in their authority; and to promote the welfare and
prosperity of these islands and their inhabitants.
After the meeting had been broken up, our party, together with the
chiefs of the villages, were invited to dinner by the daughters of the
Upper Orang Kaya. The table was spread with a number of well cooked
dishes. The wine which I had brought for the entertainment of the
chiefs, with the arrack for those of lesser rank, added not a little
to the festivity. I remarked on this occasion, that three Orang Kayas,
after having drunk a tolerable quantum of wine, finished a bottle
of arrack without either of them showing any signs of inebriety. An
unsparing use of spirituous liquors may be considered as the greatest
vice of the inhabitants of the Arrus, both Christians and Arafuras.
The traders bring here large quantities of arrack, together with an
inferior kind of aniseed, on which they obtain a very large profit. The
natives themselves distil a spirit from sago and rice.
After dinner the people were busily employed in arraying themselves
in their best clothes, to attend divine service. Coats and breeches,
probably the manufacture of the previous century, were brought to
light out of their chests, and from the smoke of their fires, where
they had been hung up to preserve them from insects. Among the presents
given to the chiefs by M. Bik the previous year, were several pieces
of black cloth, which the former had made up with their own hands
into coats, &c., after the model of the old-fashioned smoked clothes
above-mentioned, using coarse white thread in the construction. The
remnants of the cloth had been made up into head-dresses in the form of
night-caps. I set the ship's tailor to work altering their coats, to
the no small delight of the chiefs.
The church, situated on the south side of the village, is a handsome
and strong stone building, and although the doors and windows are
wanting, it is otherwise kept carefully in order. On each side of the
entrance are benches and reading desks for the men, while a number of
old-fashioned carved chairs, certainly a century and a half old, were
placed in the centre for the women. Here and there gravestones might
be perceived, the inscriptions on which had become illegible. Their
dead are not now interred in or near the church, but are deposited in
an enclosed cemetery, some distance to the north-east of the fort. The
tomb-stones here are ornamented in different ways, and it is a strong
proof of the good disposition of these people, that the tombs of the
officers of the late East India Company, who have died here, are kept
in as good order as those of their own chiefs and forefathers.
Early on the following morning, the 30th of August, I was requested by
the natives to allow M. Kam to hold another religious meeting on this
day, that a number more of them might have an opportunity of being
married and christened. I willingly gave my consent, and promised to be
present with my European fellow-voyagers.
On the previous day I had remarked, that the pulpit was ornamented by
a curtain formed of a piece of silk. By way of giving the congregation
an agreeable surprise, I caused the teacher to suspend in its place a
large covering of fine silk, ornamented with the arms of the King of
the Netherlands. The sight of this, on their entering the church, had
a great effect on the people, who loudly expressed their thanks for
this attention; so that I became convinced that this present of the
Government could not have been put to a better use.
During the morning several of the seamen asked my permission to attend
the church, that they might become baptismal witnesses to some
of the natives who had requested their services; this I willingly
allowed, cautioning them however to maintain the strictest propriety
of conduct. On entering the church, where a large congregation was
assembled, we found chairs and benches prepared for our accommodation.
The Upper Orang Kaya and his wife requested me to stand godfather to
their daughter, who was to be christened Diderika Hendrika; indeed,
nearly all the congregation underwent this ceremony, even people who
had attained the age of forty years. Among those who were united in
matrimony, were many couples who had already lived, for a long period,
in a state of wedlock; in fact, several cases occurred in which parents
and children were married at the same time. On only one occasion was
there any confusion, and this was caused by a ludicrous accident
happening to the dress of a young bridegroom, who had arrayed himself
for the ceremony in some old, worn-out, and smoke-dried clothes,
which, above all, were too small for him. This was too much for any
gravity to endure, and the young ladies especially could not restrain
their merriment; but a friendly hand tendered the unlucky youth a
sarong, in which he would gladly have enveloped himself entirely
to conceal his confusion. To add to the solemnity of the occasion,
several German flutes had been brought to accompany the psalms, the
natives, especially the women, being extremely fond of the music of
this instrument. At the request of M. Kam, my Amboynese piper attended
to play second; but although the poor youth did all he could with hands
and feet, he was unable to keep in tune, so that we were soon obliged
to put a stop to the _disconcerto_.
The ceremony was extremely long, but the attention shown by the
audience was truly exemplary; indeed, in the mother country I have
seen a congregation asleep from weariness at a much shorter service,
so that in this respect our countrymen and countrywomen may learn an
example from the simple inhabitants of the Arru Islands. Even after
the service they assembled at the house of the teacher, and sang
several more psalms; the newly married couples being also ceremoniously
congratulated on the joyful occasion. While they were thus employed, I
took the opportunity of paying a visit to the ruins of the fort.
This fort, which is now in state of great dilapidation--patches of
a wall, which was once three feet thick and twenty feet high, alone
remaining--formed a square, with bastions at the corners; but of the
latter nothing was now visible, some posts having been erected in their
place, on which several _lelahs_ were mounted. The house of the Orang
Kaya, which stands in the centre, is the only part in good repair. The
natives were very desirous of having a Dutch garrison again among them,
in which case they would willingly set to work and put the fort into
complete order.
Several of the Mohammedans, who had been driven out of the village,
formerly resided a little to the northward; but these have now put
themselves under the rule of the Christians, with whom they live on
good terms.
I passed the afternoon in settling the affairs of the natives, the
chiefs of the neighbouring villages being present. Bernard Herman was
appointed as Upper Orang Kaya, with the promise of a golden-knobbed
baton. The chiefs of Wadia betrayed considerable jealousy, and
requested me to do them the same honour I had conferred on the people
of Wokan; I therefore promised that I would visit their head village
with the brig, at which they appeared to be well contented, and
departed for their homes to make ready for our reception. Among the
Government presents which I gave to the Orang Kaya were two Dutch
flags, on which they set a high value; in addition to which I left in
his hands some trifles for the Arafuras of the islands at the back of
the group.
At the conclusion of these ceremonies I sent both boats on board the
brig, the remainder of our party intending to stop the night at the
house of the Orang Kaya. During our stay the seamen occupied a house
which had been prepared for their reception, where they were abundantly
supplied with provisions.
To the northward of the chief village of Wokan there are several
small villages, the most important of which, Samau, is inhabited by
Mohammedans, who are under the control of the people of the capital.
The chiefs of the western islands extend their authority over the
Arafuras, each chief having several villages under his rule, the
inhabitants of which paid a willing obedience to their governors
while they were supported by our Government, who, for this purpose,
had only about ten European or Amboynese soldiers on the islands, the
serjeant of the party being the commanding officer. The Arafuras then
considered themselves obliged to give an account of all their actions
to the Christian chiefs, to whom they also delivered up a portion
of the profits of their trade. These heathens, in general, are much
desirous of becoming converts to Christianity, and willingly allow
their children to be instructed in its tenets; but for many years since
there have been no teachers, much less missionaries or clergymen among
them. Our religion has therefore retrograded, while Islamism, of which
there are many priests here, has advanced considerably. This is much to
be regretted; for, as I have already stated, a similarity in religious
belief forms our strongest bond of union with the people of these
countries. The Arafuras prefer Christianity to Mohammedanism, so that
were proper measures taken much might be done, especially as they are
better in their disposition than the heathen inhabitants of the islands
we had previously visited.
Leaving Wokan on the 31st, I next visited Dobbo, a village situated on
a spit of sand five hundred yards long, extending from the north-east
side of Wama, and reducing the channel between the latter island
and Wokan to about a mile. This spit affords shelter to the trading
vessels, which anchor to the eastward or to the westward of it,
according to the monsoon, and fourteen or fifteen sheds are erected
upon it, under which they can be hauled up and repaired. It is very
difficult to enter the harbour without a pilot, as steep reefs, dry at
low water, extend a considerable distance from Wama and Wokan, forming
a narrow and crooked channel, with a depth of eight, nine, and ten
fathoms. The reefs, which are always visible in fine weather, extend
farther from Wokan than from Wama, so that the channel lies nearest to
the south shore. In the early part of the west monsoon several brigs
from Sourabaya (Java), a number of paduakans from Macassar (Celebes),
together with many other vessels from different places, among which are
many small craft from the Ki Islands and Goram, visit this harbour, the
greater part of which are hauled up on the beach during their stay, and
covered over with sheds of _atap_. The traders, with the assistance of
the natives, erect houses wherein they reside and deposit their goods,
the guns belonging to their vessel being planted around it. The traders
remain here until the month of June, Dobbo, during their stay, having
the appearance of a very populous place. The traders, immediately on
their arrival, hire vessels from the inhabitants, which they send with
a portion of their crew to the more distant islands, to purchase
trepang, edible birds'-nests, and mother-of-pearl shell. The trade is
conducted with great regularity, and if differences now and then occur,
they are always put an end to by the mediation of the Orang Kaya. The
commanders of the trading vessels pay a certain quantity of arrack
and cloth as anchorage dues and ground rent, and although the amount
paid by each is small, the number of traders is so great as to render
this an important source of income to the inhabitants. Soon after the
departure of the traders Dobbo is abandoned for the season, the old
houses being burnt by the natives that they may have to build new ones
the following year, and thus increase their gains.
This spit offers a good situation for the erection of a small fort, the
wells upon it supplying good fresh water, while the high beach is open
on both sides to the sea-breeze. According to the universal testimony
of the natives, this spot is very healthy, and although the sea is
disturbed by the number of vessels, it affords abundance of fish. A
party sent here from the brig to fish with the seine, obtained at three
hauls, a sufficient quantity of kakap (a sort of cod), and other
delicate fish, to half fill the boat.
As nothing is to be feared from the natives, I feel convinced that
were a fort to be erected on this spot it would soon become a very
prosperous trading place. At present the natives do not settle here
in great numbers, as the foreign traders do not like them to reside
among them. As soon as the traders have departed the people give
themselves up to idleness, and only commence collecting produce a
short time previous to their return. Neither do the foreign traders
now like to settle on the islands, perhaps because they do not place
much confidence in the people. I am convinced, however, that were a
representative of the Dutch Government to reside here, it would soon
become a highly prosperous place, and the harbour would never be
without vessels in it.
I cannot avoid giving a short description of the Pilandok or Arru
rabbits, an animal rather larger than the common rabbit, of a grey
colour, which, as they grow old, becomes quite grizzly. The forelegs
are short, and the hind ones, which resemble those of the hare, have
each three toes, provided with strong nails. The head is like that
of a weazel. These animals do not run very fast, and when resting
they usually sit upright on their hind legs. Their food consists of
the leaves of the yam plant and other greens, and they are easily
tamed, when they may be suffered to run around the house without their
attempting to escape. The flavour of their flesh is very agreeable.
On the 1st of September, when at Duryella, I appointed the Orang
Kayas to the islands of Wama and Maykor, to each of whom I presented
a silver-knobbed baton, besides other government gifts, as pieces of
cloth, flags, &c. Several of the chiefs of the more distant islands
were also confirmed in their authority on the same occasion, many other
affairs being also settled; among which was a reconciliation between
the people of two villages on Vorkay, who for some time previously had
lived in state of war with each other. The quarrel originated in one of
the parties fishing too long on a reef which was their mutual property,
and thus obtaining too large a share of its produce. It had already
been provisionally adjusted through the mediation of the Christian
chiefs, and was now submitted to me for my final decision. The
offenders solemnly promised that they would not hereafter exceed their
right, and the affair was settled to the satisfaction of both parties,
who declared that they would henceforward live in peace and friendship
with each other.
The greater portion of the Christian inhabitants of Maykor had come
to Duryella, partly to attend to their own interests, and partly for
the purpose of being present at the preachings of M. Kam, on which
occasions a large number of people were admitted as members of the
Christian Church. I occasionally invited the chiefs to dinner with
me, which was always considered by them as a great honour, and they
never failed to come attended by a numerous retinue, Arafuras as well
as Christians, who crept on board from all sides in an instant. The
chiefs of the more distant islands, not having been informed of my
arrival, had come in their usual dress, the tdejako, or waist-cloth, as
they never adorn themselves with their best clothing except on festive
occasions. These chiefs were much ashamed of their _deshabille_, and
made repeated excuses; but being informed of the cause, I rejoiced them
by having _kabayas_ and breeches prepared for them, when they made
their appearance with much greater confidence.
On one occasion a number of chiefs, who had dined on board, remained
to spend the evening with me, many of whom, particularly the Arafuras,
declared to me that they had never before been on board a ship of war.
To give them a good idea of such a vessel I ordered several of the
great guns to be fired, and although we had informed them of what was
coming, they were terribly frightened, and it was truly ridiculous to
see them jump into the air at every shot, like harlequins. Many of
them, indeed, jumped overboard, while others hid themselves under the
table which stood on the deck, and in any corner they could find. These
islanders generally can carry off an inconceivable quantity of spirits.
Although at our festive meetings on board more than thirty jugs of
arrack were often drunk, they would still take a quantity on shore with
them to finish the evening at home.
The prahus which are built upon these islands are very long, and sit
low on the water, their length being seldom less than seventy feet,
while their greatest breadth is not greater than ten feet. We saw about
thirty of these lying under the shore, and had good opportunities for
examining them. In the centre of them is a stage, on which they make a
fire to cook their provisions. Whenever these vessels sail on a voyage
they are adorned with a number of flags, some being displayed from the
stern and others planted along the sides, the whole presenting a very
gay appearance. These flags are triangular (perhaps in imitation of
those of the Chinese), and of various colours, the prahus belonging to
the chiefs being distinguished by the superior size and number of those
they display. The inhabitants of the western Arrus obtain their prahus
chiefly from the Ki Islands, these being stronger and broader than
those constructed by the people of the Eastern Arrus. The Arafuras,
when at sea, protect themselves from the rain, which they dislike
greatly, by means of long bags open on one side, made from the bark of
a tree. When the weather is fine, they roll these up and use them as a
cushion to sit upon.
The abolition of the slave trade has not yet spread its beneficent
influence to these parts; indeed, the export and import of slaves forms
a considerable branch of commerce, &c.: so much so, that were it to
be discontinued many of the inhabitants would become a prey to want.
It must here be taken into consideration, that the words "slave" and
"slave trade" have a very different signification here from that which
they have in the West Indies, the people of the east regarding the
slave trade as being, in a certain point of view, beneficial to the
slaves themselves. Many, in fact, when in distress, offer themselves
as bondsmen that they may obtain the necessaries of life. The natives,
however, are well aware that this shameful trade is much disapproved
of by our Government, and that the greatest object of their rule is to
secure general freedom and prosperity to mankind, for which reason the
slaveholders treat their people with humanity. These creatures are,
therefore, less to be pitied than one would suppose; and it must be
taken into consideration, that so long as agriculture and industry are
so much neglected, the slave trade must be a source of subsistence to
a great part of these islanders, by means of which they are held back
from engaging in piracy, theft, and other vices, to which want and
necessity would otherwise force them to resort.[32]
When M. Bik was here he was presented with two slave boys, to whom,
as I was informed by the natives, he gave their liberty, and caused
them to be sent back to their village. Shortly after the departure
of this gentleman these liberated slaves fell into a state of great
poverty, so that, to pay the debts they had incurred for provisions and
necessaries, they had again pledged or sold themselves as slaves, and
they now regard themselves as fortunate in having found a good master.
On my asking them if they wished to become free again? they answered,
that they would like it well if I would take them with me, and provide
for their future maintenance, but that otherwise they would prefer
living in their present state of servitude. I allowed my interpreter
to redeem a couple of orphans who had been sold here by the Arafuras,
and did not seem to have derived much good from their master, for which
he paid eighty guilders. At their own request I took them with me to
Amboyna, where, with the cognizance of the Government, I set them at
liberty, so that they became in a condition to gain their livelihood by
daily labour.[33]
On the 4th of September the chiefs of Maykor and Wama came to take
their leave, and to present us with some stock and fruit, after which
we weighed anchor and steered for the island Wadia. A number of prahus
accompanied us a considerable distance, the natives in them displaying
their friendship by the music of their gongs and songs of joy.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 31: So early as 1640, F. Corsten entered into a treaty with
the people of the Arrus, especially those of Wokan, Wadia, Wama,
Duryella and Maykor, in which the latter agreed to acknowledge the
supremacy of the Dutch East India Company. Afterwards, in 1645, the
Fiscal Dorstman obtained from them an agreement to trade exclusively
with Banda, while the monopoly of the pearl fishery was given to the
East India Company.]
[Footnote 32: M. Kolff, whose opinion upon this point is totally at
variance with that of Sir Stamford Raffles, and of every other writer
on the Indian Archipelago, who has really taken an interest in the
welfare of the natives, appears to have mistaken effect for cause;
as in this part of the world it has invariably been found that the
slave trade alone has been sufficient to render a people, previously
mild and industrious, poor, idle and vicious. As to the slave trade
preventing the natives from engaging in piracy, M. Kolff _must_ have
been aware that by far the greater number of piratical expeditions
fitted out by the natives are intended solely for the capture of
slaves, other plunder being in their eyes of minor importance only; and
this is especially the case in the parts visited by M. Kolff, where the
inhabitants possess nothing of sufficient value to tempt the cupidity
of pirates.--_Ed._]
[Footnote 33: The inhabitants of the Arrus and the adjacent island, are
glad to obtain Dutch gold and silver coin, the greater part of which
they work up into ear-rings and other ornaments.]