THE ARRU ISLANDS.
Trade of the Arru Islands.--Chief Productions.--Trepang.--The
Island Vorkay.--The Pearl Fishery.--The Arafuras of Kobroor and
Kobiwatu.--Duryella, the capital of Wama.--The Schoolmaster.--Homage
paid by the Natives to M. Kam.
For many years since the inhabitants of the Arru Islands have been
uncontrolled by Europeans, and have been without Christian instructors,
so that they have advanced but little in civilization. They have also
been considerable sufferers from not having the protection of the Dutch
authorities, as the Bughis and Macassars, who come here to trade, are
great extortioners, and appeared more in the light of plunderers than
of friendly traders; which, indeed, is the case with all the people
of India when they are the strongest, and are not controlled by our
Government.
The Arru Islands have, however, always been much visited by native
merchants, chiefly on account of the trepang, tortoise-shell, edible
birds'-nests and pearls which they afford. It will be useful here to
give rather a full account of the first of these products, since it is
from this that the natives derive the greater part of their riches.
The trepang, which is a species of _holothurie_, is found chiefly on
banks composed of clay mixed with fine sand, and covered with slimy
sea-weed, which, at low water, appears above the surface of the sea.
Those engaged in the trade are acquainted with no less than twenty
different sorts, besides which there are several others which are not
eatable, having a very bitter taste. The different sorts are arranged
in the following order:--
1. _Trepang Passir_, or sand trepang, which is found on banks composed
chiefly of sand, is considered the best, being much in demand at
Kouding, Aring, and Macassar. The price it usually fetches is one
hundred and sixty guilders the picul. The different sorts which follow
decrease in value from this, until the lowest is thirty guilders the
picul.
2. _Trepang batu._ These have a bluish tinge, and it is necessary to
cut them through the thickest part, or they cannot be properly dried.
3. _Trepang corro._ This is also cut open, and the entrails removed.
4. _Trepang pandang._
5. _Trepang nanas_, or pine-apple trepang, is covered over with spines
like the fruit whose name it bears.
6. _Trepang itam_, or black trepang.
7. _Trepang kossong_, white with black speckles.
8. _Trepang buang kulit_, from which it is necessary to strip off two
thin skins which cover it.
9. _Trepang kay Java._
10. _Trepang Marigi._ This is obtained on the coast of New Holland, and
is boiled up with the bark of the _kayu bankudu_, which imparts to the
animal a red colour, and preserves it dry for a long period.
11. _Trepang donga._
12. _Trepang kunyit._
13. _Trepang gama._
14. _Trepang taai konkong._
15. _Trepang bilala._ This is black, and the only species that is flat.
16. _Trepang massee._
17. _Trepang katjang goreng._ This is small, and is also cured with the
bark of the _kayu bankudu_.
18. _Trepang kuwas._
19. _Trepang puti._ This sort is small, and of a whitish colour.
After the trepang is caught, it is immediately boiled in sea-water,
in which the leaves of the papya are steeped, to take off a thin skin
which covers it. It is then placed in baskets or holes, and covered up
with earth until the following morning, when it is washed repeatedly
to deprive it as much as possible of the disagreeable taste of coral
which it possesses, after which it is spread out on mats, and dried.
Even then it is not entirely free from the unpleasant flavour which is
peculiar to all holothuries or polypes, for which reason the Chinese,
before making it up into soups or ragouts, boil it with sugar-cane.
The Arafuras sell the trepang to the Bughis and others by the ukur, a
measure containing about half a picul. The traders sort the trepang,
there being a great difference in the value of the various kinds. The
price of the first sort in China is one hundred and twenty Spanish
dollars the picul, while the various sorts mixed together can be
purchased at the back of the islands, as the eastern parts are called,
at the rate of ten to fifteen Spanish dollars the picul. The number
of the traders, who now visit the Arrus, has caused the price of
this article to increase considerably above that which was formerly
given. When the people of Banda had the trade exclusively in their
hands, a picul of trepang might be obtained for a sarong, or piece
of cloth of the value of eight guilders, and twenty birdsnests for a
chopping-knife; while now the latter, which will weigh less than a
kati, or 1-1/4lb., cannot be purchased for less than from fourteen to
eighteen guilders. These articles would, however, still yield a large
profit were it not necessary to remain among the Arrus for a period of
four months to collect a cargo of any importance. On this account small
brigs and paduakans only are employed in the trade, as their expense is
less than that of larger vessels.
Vorkay, an island lying exposed to the ocean at the south-eastern
extremity of the group, is of great importance from its pearl fishery.
At a distance of eight miles to the eastward lay several small islands,
between which and Vorkay the trepang banks are situated. At low water
hundreds of men, with their wives and children, may be perceived
wading from Vorkay towards these islets, (the water being only two or
three feet deep,) carrying a basket at their backs, and having in their
hands a stick provided with an iron point. When the water is deeper
than this, they make use of canoes. For fishing on the banks situated
at a greater distance, the Arafuras use a prahu, constructed for the
purpose, in which they embark their entire family. These vessels have a
very strange appearance. They have great beams, and the stern runs up
into a high curve, while two planks project forward from the bows. The
family resides in three or four huts, composed of atap or palm leaves,
erected within the vessel, and a railing runs entirely round it,
apparently to prevent the children from falling overboard. The prahu is
propelled by a large sail made of rushes, which folds up like a fan,
(in a similar manner to the sails of the Chinese junks), set upon a
tripod mast of bamboos, while it is steered by two rudders. Two other
masts are also erected, which answer no purpose but that of displaying
several small flags.
As I have already stated, it is almost impossible for a large ship to
approach the eastern side of the Arrus, as in all parts banks and reefs
stretch far out to sea. There are, however, a few small openings,
through which a brig may enter; but it is absolutely necessary to have
an Arafura pilot on board.
Among the chief villages on Vorkay, are Old and New Affara, Longa, Uri
and Goor, before the last of which lies a great pearl bank. The natives
informed me that it was exhausted, and that they had not fished it
for two years; but this was probably a mis-statement, which they were
induced to make owing to the difficulties attending the fishery. They
said that they only obtained from it large mother-of-pearl shells for
the Chinese market, and that they did not find pearls inside them. The
true pearl oyster is small, with a thin shell.
The pearl fishery is carried on in the following manner. The trader
makes an agreement with the Arafuras for so much a hundred, paying an
advance of a certain quantity of arrack, cloth, &c. When the price
is agreed on the fisher goes to the bank, and dives for the oysters,
which are mostly small and black, in from twenty-four to thirty feet
water, selecting the best he can find. The diving is attended with
much difficulty and danger, as, from the time he remains under water,
the blood often bursts from the nose and mouth of the diver, while he
is also liable to be destroyed by the numerous sharks which are to be
found there.
The chiefs informed me, that in the time of the (Dutch) East India
Company, the pearl fishery was carried on by their order;[28] but when
the Arafuras found themselves becoming more and more independent of the
Christians, and the chiefs were no longer incited by our Government
to carry it on, it was very naturally discontinued, as the labour
attending it is much greater than that of the trepang fishery. Small
quantities of pearls are still obtained in shallow water for the Bughis
traders, but these are of little value, and are chiefly disposed of to
the Chinese, who use them as an ingredient in some of their medicines.
On one occasion we met with a prahu from the Kabroor Islands (at
the east side of the Arrus), the people in which were superior in
appearance to the trepang fishers of Vorkay. They had clearer skins
than the latter, and their hair, which was also much finer, was
very neatly dressed, and adorned with beads. Their weapons, and the
ornaments of their prahus, displayed great taste. The strangers, who
called themselves Arafuras of Borassi, had abundance of food with them,
together with several hunting dogs.
During the year previous to my visit, when the Governor-General Baron
Van Der Capellen visited the Moluccas, he sent two schooners of war,
the _Daphne_ and _Pollux_ to the Arrus, to enquire into the condition
of the people. The arrival of M. A.J. Bik, who was at the head of
this expedition, had given rise to a hope among the natives that the
Government would take an interest in their affairs, so that my visit
naturally excited much joy among them. They welcomed us in the most
friendly manner, kissed our hands, and expressed the greatest joy when
I informed them of the object of my visit, and of the purpose of our
Government to take them again under their protection. The frank and
kind manner in which men and women, heathens as well as Christians,
came forth to meet us, was truly striking and impressive, the more from
these innocent people being, unlike many others of the Indian races,
entirely free from dissimulation. Even the children crowded around to
kiss us.
On the afternoon of my arrival I went on shore accompanied by M. Kam
and several other gentlemen, to the village of Wanla, which is erected
on a point of limestone rock, about thirty feet above the level of the
sea. It contains only ten or twelve poor and small houses; but the
stone church, which also overhangs the sea, was in very good condition.
Wanla is a dependence of Duryella, the capital of Wama, but is under
the immediate control of an Orang Tua.
In several places we saw prahus hauled up on the beach, which are hired
to the traders during the time they remain among the islands. In the
interior we saw a number of sago trees, the pith of which constituted
the chief food of the natives. The ground, generally, is by no means
fertile, and in many parts is overgrown with underwood, there being but
few spots calculated for the cultivation of rice.
On Sunday, the 28th of August, I set out for Duryella, our road, which
lay along the beach, being almost impassable from the number of trees
which had been thrown up by the sea during the westerly monsoon. If the
inhabitants were rather more industrious they would cut a road through
the beautiful forest which runs down close to the sea. Among the trees
which lined the shore I recognized the _kanari_, the _katapan laut_,
the _tutun_, the _yamplon_,[29] the _casuarina_, and the _bua-raja_,
the last of which bears much resemblance to the Javanese fern or
_pohon paku_, the leaves having a beautiful green colour; the fruit,
when dried and pounded fine, is often used instead of flour in the
composition of pastry.
After an hour's walking we arrived at Duryella, where we were received
with much solemnity under a salute of _lelahs_. The village, which is
well built and kept in very good order, forms nearly a square. On the
beach opposite, a stage was erected on a high tree, on which several
_lelahs_ were mounted; this was formerly used for their protection,
when the inhabitants were at war with the people of Wadia; but since
peace had been made between them by M. Bik, the fortification had been
allowed to fall into disrepair.
The house of the Orang Kaya, Jacob Barend, in which we were received,
answered also for a fort. It was erected on high piles of iron-wood,
and consisted of several rooms, in which the numerous family of the
Orang Kaya took up their residence. The remainder of the houses,
which formed the village, were smaller, but constructed after the
same manner; and the neat little church was kept in good order. The
schoolmaster, who resided here, appeared to do his best in instructing
his fellow Christians. These teachers, who also perform divine service,
are usually young natives of Amboyna, who, after having undergone a
course of instruction, are sent among the neighbouring islands without
salaries, and being therefore dependent on the natives for support,
they are sometimes, from want of the protection of the Government,
in very necessitous circumstances. The hope of being relieved and
settled at Amboyna, after having been employed as missionaries a few
years, renders them very willing to undertake this office, which would
otherwise be a truly great sacrifice on their part, as none can feel
greater reluctance to leave their homes for a long period than the
inhabitants of the Indian Archipelago in general.
M. Bik, on fixing two Amboynese teachers here, whom he brought with
him, promised them a salary, and also to supply them now and then
with necessaries, as occasion might offer. I therefore considered it
my duty to advance them some money and clothes, while at the same time
I suggested to the inhabitants that they ought regularly to contribute
something to the support of these useful men. The teachers pride
themselves on their descent as Amboynese, and are uncommonly neat
in their dress. I never saw one otherwise than well clad, wearing a
three-cornered hat, a black coat of cloth or cotton, small-clothes of
the same materials, with shoes, and black silk or cotton stockings.
The teacher at Wokan was married to the daughter of the Orang Kaya,
and was as much respected as he was esteemed. Their usual employment
consists in instructing the children in reading and writing the Malay
language (Roman letters, not the Arabic characters, being used), and in
initiating them in the rudiments of the Reformed Religion. They rarely,
however, acquire a full insight into the last, as the young people
are forced to leave school at an early period, that they may assist
their parents in their avocations. He also performs divine service
every Sunday, during which he reads passages from the Bible, and the
community under his direction sing psalms in the Malayan tongue,[30]
the service being usually closed with a discourse on the precepts and
duties of Christianity.
We tarried a considerable time at the residence of the Orang Kaya,
where a number of people had assembled, among whom were the chiefs of
the neighbouring villages, who had come to welcome us and pay their
respects. This afforded me a good opportunity of breaking to them
the object of my visit; and as I wished to make as much impression
on their minds as possible, I arranged that a general meeting should
be held on Wokan on the 29th of August, when the business might be
entered into more fully. M. Kam, also, to the great satisfaction of the
Christians, held a long communication with them on religious subjects,
and about fifty of the natives were baptized on the occasion. After
this ceremony had been completed, amid the greatest attention and
propriety of conduct, we amused ourselves in examining the gardens in
the vicinity, the people appearing to be much pleased at our visiting
their dwellings.
Early on the following morning I despatched two of the boats, with a
portion of my party, to Wokan, and at eight o'clock, by which time a
large number of prahus had collected around the brig, I also departed
in a third boat, accompanied by M. Dielwaart, under a salute from our
guns. The large number of prahus, with which the chiefs accompanied
us, presented a very imposing appearance. As we approached Wokan, a
salvo was fired from a one-pounder gun, which we had in the boat,
and on stepping ashore we were received with military honours by
the twenty-eight armed European seamen who had preceded us, which,
doubtless, made a proper impression on the Orang Kayas who awaited us
on the beach.
We now proceeded to the fort, from which shots were occasionally fired,
while the people welcomed us with loud shouts of joy. Especial homage
was paid to M. Kam, who subsequently arrived from Wama, as soon as
he had stepped on shore; the schoolmaster, and a number of young men
and women assembled around him, and commenced the twenty-fifth psalm,
singing which they accompanied him until he arrived among us. They
then placed themselves respectfully behind the clergyman, and after
the psalm was finished they rested awhile, and prepared to commence
another; but as I wished to finish my affairs as soon as possible,
and at the same time was desirous of avoiding giving offence to the
Mohammedan chiefs who were present, I requested them to defer it to
another occasion. The Christian inhabitants of these parts take great
delight in singing psalms, and they practice much: they know many of
them by heart. Their respect for the Bible is also very great, and they
preserve the portions of scriptures, which they formerly received, with
as much care as if they were costly jewels. This betokens a strong
inclination and capacity on their part to increase their acquaintance
with our religion, and this trait in their character may, with a little
attention, be made a powerful instrument in improving their condition.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 28: The pearls obtained were chiefly sent to Japan.--_Ed._]
[Footnote 29: This large tree bears a yellow nut, which, when stripped
of its husk and pounded, is mixed up with cotton and simmered over the
fire in an iron pan, until it becomes an oily pap. Strips of cocoa-nut
leaves, or small sticks of bamboo, are steeped in this, and thus formed
into flambeaux, which give a clear light and are used by the islanders
instead of candles.]
[Footnote 30: Our useful countryman, G.H. Werndly, cannot be
sufficiently praised for his Malayan translation of the Old and New
Testament, and also of several psalms, which he has rendered into
Malayan verse.]