TIMOR.
Object of the Voyage.--Sail for Timor.--Arrive at the Portuguese
Settlement of Dilli.--Poverty of the Inhabitants.--Mean
Reception.--Agriculture much neglected.--Slave Trade.--Symptoms of
Distrust on the Part of the Portuguese.--Discontented state of their
Native Subjects.--Departure for the Island of Wetta.
I was permitted by the Government to remain a considerable time at
Amboyna, as the greater part of the brig's crew were forced to enter
the hospital, while the vessel herself was in want of considerable
repair. The fine climate of this agreeable island, coupled with the
attendance of a skilful physician (M. Zengacker), soon restored my
brave crew to their former health and vigour, and the fresh air
of Batu Gadja, the residence of the much-respected governor, M.P.
Merkus, with the kind hospitality of its owner, soon caused me to
forget the fatigues and hardships I had undergone. When my health was
sufficiently restored to permit me to resume active duties, I made
preparations for a voyage to the Arru, Tenimber, and the other islands
lying between Great Timor and New Guinea, the conduct of which had
been entrusted to me by an order of the Government. These islands were
formerly possessions of our old East India Company, who had created
small forts on many of them, the better to secure to themselves the
entire trade in spices. Well known events connected with the state,
which undermined the monopoly of the East India Company, caused these
islands to decrease in importance, until at length the communication
with them ceased, and had continued so for a long series of years.
During the period in which the English had possession of the Moluccas
these islands were disregarded, so that their inhabitants were scarcely
aware that they had changed masters, and still continued to view
themselves as subjects of the Dutch, hoisting their flag on all festive
occasions. It is also a well-known fact, that at our factory in Japan
(thanks to the firm conduct of the chief, H. Doeff), our flag was never
hauled down; while the Dutch, therefore, ceased to exist as a nation,
our colours continued flying, and our authority acknowledged in several
of the remote possessions acquired by the courage and enterprize of
our forefathers. I trust we may again be actuated by the desire, not to
conquer new countries, but to maintain and increase our power in those
bequeathed to us by our ancestors.
With reference to the above-mentioned islands, the fifth article of
my instructions contained the following passage:--"And further, you
will inquire as to what remains exist of the forts erected by the East
India Company on the islands, especially on those of Arru, Tenimber,
and Kessa, noting down with correctness the particulars you may obtain
concerning them, subjoining your own observations on their positions,
and other points." A second object of my expedition was: "to kindle and
renew friendly relations with the natives, and to invite them to visit
Banda for the purpose of trading, this being an object of importance
to the islanders themselves, since they would there obtain the goods
they might require in exchange for their produce, on more advantageous
terms than from the traders who have hitherto supplied them." By my
instructions I was also requested, not only to note down answers to the
points of inquiry contained in them, but also to embody in a report any
observations I might make on subjects of importance to the Government,
that the information concerning these possessions might be as full as
possible.
M. Dielwaart, a gentleman in the employ of the Government, accompanied
me for the purpose of assisting in the examination; and M. Kam, a
clergyman, was also attached to the expedition, his object being to
promote the interests of Christianity, and to arrange all matters
connected with church affairs and public instruction. An interpreter
for the Malayan language, and another acquainted with the dialect
spoken by the mountaineers, were furnished to me, together with a guard
of seven soldiers.
On the 26th of May we sailed from Amboyna, and soon cleared the
bay--this being sometimes attended with much difficulty--when we
steered to the southward towards the town of Dilli, on the north-west
coast of Timor. Having to contend against squalls and contrary winds,
we did not reach the roads of Dilli until the 2nd of June. On arriving
outside the reefs which shelter the roads, we hove-to, and were boarded
by a Portuguese naval officer, who acted as harbour-master, and
conducted us into the inner roads by a narrow channel to the westward
of the town, which forms the only entrance. A ship may come to an
anchor outside the reefs, but the water is very deep, and she would be
quite unsheltered.
We found a large ship from Macao at anchor in the roads, but no other
vessel, not even a native prahu, was to be seen. After having anchored
we saluted the fort with thirteen guns, which the latter returned with
only eleven. On my demanding the reason of this deficiency, it was
attributed to the carelessness of the officer of artillery, for which
it appeared he was to be punished. Soon after entering the roads,
I sent Lieutenant Bruining on shore to inform the Governor of our
arrival. This gentleman having just retired to take his siesta, his
people had the incivility to allow M. Bruining to walk in front of the
house from noon until three o'clock, before being admitted into his
presence. The Governor expressed himself much gratified at our arrival,
and wished me to call upon him in the evening, when I went to his house
in company with several of the gentlemen who were embarked with me, and
experienced a more hospitable reception than could have been expected
from the poverty-stricken appearance of the place.
The Governor of the Portuguese possessions in the north coast of Timor
usually resides at Dilli, and pays himself and the other officials
out of the revenue derived from the trade. They are all engaged in
mercantile pursuits. Their pay, indeed, is extremely small, the
officers receiving only eleven guilders,[6] and the soldiers three
guilders per month. Their dwellings are miserable, dirty, and poor.
The Governor resides in a small wooden house situated at the back
of the fort, which contains no other furniture than a few tables,
benches, and old chairs. When dining at his house the following day,
we plainly perceived that the chairs, dishes, plates, and even the
table-linen, had been lent for the occasion by various individuals, all
being of different make and fashion; and our opinion on this point was
afterwards confirmed.
The Governor appeared to be much pleased on finding that I was in
want of some cattle and various articles, with which he offered to
supply me. He charged me seven dollars a head for the buffaloes, and
eighty-six guilders for half a picul (sixty-six pounds and a half) of
wax candles, that I purchased from him, in addition to which I paid
six per cent. export duty at the custom-house. Slaves were frequently
offered to me on sale, the Commandant, among others, wishing me to
purchase two children of seven or eight years of age, who were loaded
with heavy irons. The usual price of an adult male slave is forty
guilders, that of a woman or a child being from twenty-five to thirty.
These unfortunate people are kidnapped in the interior, and brought
to Dilli for sale, the Governor readily providing the vender with
certificates under his hand and seal, authorizing him to dispose of the
captives as he may think fit.[7]
In addition to the slave trade, from which the government officers
appeared to derive the greater part of their income, a commerce is
also earned on in wax and sandal-wood, which the natives are forced to
deliver up at a small, and almost nominal price. The trade is entirely
engrossed by the governor and officials, no other individual being
permitted to embark in commerce. This, with other abuses, caused so
much discontent, that many of the inhabitants of Dilli, both natives
and Chinese, expressed to me their strong desire to be freed from
the hateful yoke of the Portuguese. Scarcely had we anchored in the
roads, when several came on board the brig and gave vent to their joy,
supposing that we had come to take possession of the place.
The fort, a square inclosure, without bastions, containing within it
a house and a magazine, is constructed of stone and clay. Several
pieces of cannon are mounted on the walls, but the greater number are
unprovided with carriages. Some of our officers wished to inspect the
interior, but orders had been issued to the sentry not to allow us
to enter; at all events, our officers were refused admission on the
plea, that our visiting the fort would be viewed with displeasure by
the Governor. We did not think it worth while to make a formal request
for permission to visit this pitiful fortress, as the appearance of
the exterior gave us a good idea of what we might expect to meet with
inside.
Excepting the wife of the master of a merchant ship, we did not meet
with a single European woman here. Even those of the mixed breed were
scarce, two or three only being encountered by us during our stay.
When the Portuguese go abroad to pay a visit or to take the air, they
are carried by two or three slaves in a canvass hammock, suspended
from a bamboo pole, over which an awning is extended to protect the
rider from the sun and rain. There are excellent horses in the place,
but very little use is made of them, neither carts nor carriages
being employed by the inhabitants. The Portuguese, indeed, betray no
activity, and appear to have given themselves up to an indolent mode of
life, all their actions being redolent of laziness and apathy.
The population appeared to be numerous, but no signs of prosperity
were visible. The dwelling-houses, small, dirty and ruinous, and built
without order or symmetry, were scattered irregularly over the town.
On each side of the quarter inhabited by the Portuguese two redoubts
have been erected, on which some old iron guns of small calibre were
mounted. The sentinels were half naked, and their muskets were for the
most part without locks, so that they could only be carried for show.
In addition to their muskets they carried long poniards or daggers.
A large plain extended to the eastward of the town, on which appeared
an exceedingly high gallows. A short distance inland to the south-west
the chief of the native inhabitants resided, to whom I would willingly
have paid a visit, had it not been so much against the inclination of
the governor, who pretended that the chief was seriously indisposed.
A feeling of distrust on the part of the Portuguese was apparent
throughout our intercourse with them, and they evidently wished us to
hold no intercourse with the natives.
The land around the settlement is highly fertile, and fruit, which
here as in other parts of India, is produced without the assistance
of human industry, was plentiful; but culinary vegetables were very
scarce. The land would produce abundantly were the indolent Portuguese
to turn their attention to agriculture, or to encourage the natives
to do so; but they prefer seeing the innocent natives carried off
from their peaceful homes in the hills, that they may profit by their
sale, to allowing them to better their condition by their labour and
agricultural skill.
On two occasions some of the gentlemen of the settlement came off
to pay us a visit, appearing to be much surprised by the interior
arrangements of the brig. I had also invited the Governor, but he
made some trifling excuses for remaining on shore. Having thus doubly
requited the attention I experienced from these gentlemen, I made
preparations for my departure, and sent the Governor a present of a
thousand Manilla cigars, with a quantity of fishhooks, in return
for which he sent me off some sheep, and a number of shaddocks. We
therefore parted on the best terms.
Having now fulfilled the orders of the Governor of the Moluccas, we
weighed anchor on the 6th of June, and were piloted out by the same
lieutenant who had taken us into the roads. No fees being demanded, I
presented him with some provisions and trifles, which were received
with thanks. The day previous to our departure having been the birthday
of their king, a general promotion had taken place, by which this
gentleman had received the rank of first lieutenant, with a monthly
increase of pay of three guilders, his salary now amounting to fourteen
guilders per month.
The Portuguese possessions lie on the north side of Timor, and consist
of several small posts or factories, the principal of which are
Batu-Gede to the west, and Manatatu to the east of Dilli, the capital.
On the west and south-west sides of the island the Dutch settlements
are situated, the town of Coepang being the seat of the Residency.
As this part of Timor was beyond the limits of my intended voyage, I
steered a direct course from Dilli towards the Island of Wetta.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 6: A guilder is 1_s._ 8_d._ sterling.--_Trans._]
[Footnote 7: When Captain King first visited Melville Island, on
the north coast of Australia, the natives appeared on the beach and
called out to our voyager, "Ven aca," the Portuguese term for "Come
here." From this, coupled with many circumstances that came under his
observation during his stay at Melville Island, Major Campbell, in an
excellent account of that island inserted in the journal of the Royal
Geographical Society, states it to be his opinion, that the Portuguese
sometimes touch here and carry off the natives as slaves. When this
part of the world is better known, similar scandalous transactions
will, probably, be brought to light.--_Trans._]