[Illustration:
_THE_
ARAFŪRA SEA,
_by_
George Windsor Earl.
_London. J. Madden. 1839._]
VOYAGES
OF THE
DUTCH BRIG OF WAR
DOURGA,
THROUGH THE
SOUTHERN AND LITTLE-KNOWN PARTS
OF THE
MOLUCCAN ARCHIPELAGO,
AND ALONG THE
PREVIOUSLY UNKNOWN SOUTHERN COAST
OF
NEW GUINEA,
PERFORMED
DURING THE YEARS 1825 & 1826.
BY
D.H. KOLFF, Jun.
LUITENANT TER ZEE, 1^e KLASSE, EN RIDDER VAN DE MILITAIRE
WILLEMS ORDE.
TRANSLATED FROM THE DUTCH
By GEORGE WINDSOR EARL,
AUTHOR OF THE "EASTERN SEAS."
LONDON:
JAMES MADDEN & CO., LEADENHALL STREET,
LATE PARBURY & Co.
1840.
LONDON:
EDWARD BREWSTER, PRINTER,
HAND COURT, DOWGATE.
AUTHOR'S PREFACE.
A plain preface will be best adapted for a simple narrative of events
that occurred and observations made during Voyages through important
countries, with a portion of which we were previously unacquainted,
while the remainder have been but rarely visited. I was repeatedly
requested by relatives and friends, both in India and in the Mother
Country, to communicate these to the Public, as being information that
would be deemed useful and important, not only by Government and Naval
officers, but by every inquiring Netherlander. This encouragement
induced me, who, being a seaman, cannot aspire to literary renown, to
employ my leisure hours in compiling the following unadorned narrative
of my voyages through the Southern parts of the Archipelago of the
Moluccas, and along the South-west coast of New Guinea.
If the hopes I have cherished as to the importance of the information
here given be not without ground, I trust that I shall not demand in
vain the indulgence of my honoured Readers, which I am sure will be
readily granted when it is taken into consideration, that the continued
fatigues I endured, not only while engaged in performing the voyages
here described, but also while employed in the expedition against
Celebes in 1824, have undermined and broken my constitution. The
confidence with which the Government honoured me by entrusting to me
the execution of these voyages of examination, was certainly a spur
which incited me to overcome all difficulties, and to make myself as
useful as possible to my country.
With the assistance of my officers and of intelligent natives, I was
fortunately enabled to collect accurate details concerning numerous
islands and coasts, which I subsequently laid down in a chart, and
forwarded it to the Government, a correct copy of which, on a smaller
scale, I offer to my reader, as an illustration to the narrative.
If I have succeeded in effecting the object for which this volume is
offered to the Public, I shall consider the time and trouble bestowed
upon its compilation as being richly rewarded.
D.H. KOLFF, Jun.
November, 1838.
TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.
The numerous islands lying between the Moluccas and the northern coasts
of Australia, have hitherto been very little known to the world;
indeed, we cannot discover that any account of them has yet been made
public, with the exception of some observations in Valentyn's "Oude en
Nieuw Oost Indien," a work published in Holland more than a century
ago:--we are, therefore, induced to offer a few particulars concerning
their early history, as an introduction to M. Kolff's narrative.
We cannot discover that these islands were ever visited by Europeans
previous to 1636, in which year Pieter Pieterson, a Dutch navigator,
touched at the Arru Islands during his voyage to examine the northern
coasts of Australia, which had been discovered thirty years previously
by a small Dutch vessel, called the _Duyfken_. Six years subsequently
the Arru group was again visited by F. Corsten, when several of
the native chiefs were induced to acknowledge the supremacy of the
Dutch East India Company, binding themselves to trade with no other
Europeans, and investing them with the monopoly of the pearl banks,
the produce of which the Dutch conveyed to Japan, and there found a
ready market and a lucrative return. Transactions, with similar views,
subsequently took place at the adjacent islands, on which small bodies
of troops were placed, to whose control the simple natives willingly
submitted, and viewed with indifference the destruction of the spice
trees, which were vigorously sought for and up-rooted by the new comers.
As it was the object of the Dutch to restrict the trade in spices
within narrow limits, in order to enhance the value of this commodity,
of which they enjoyed the monopoly, the East India Company did not
permit even their own countrymen to carry on a commercial intercourse
with these islands; indeed, the only advantages the Company derived
from their possession, consisted in their affording slaves to cultivate
the clove and nutmeg plantations of Banda and Amboyna, the only
settlements in which they allowed spices to be grown. Notwithstanding
these restrictions, an extensive contraband trade was carried on with
the islands; for the Europeans who were, from time to time, encouraged
by the Company to settle in the Moluccas as planters, although
receiving bounties in the shape of free grants of land, with advances
of slaves and provisions on credit and at original cost, under the sole
condition that they should supply the Company with the produce at a
fixed price, soon abandoned their plantations, and embarked in the more
exciting and lucrative trade with the islands to the southward, sending
confidential slaves in charge of their prahus.[1] It is recorded, that
many individuals collected enormous fortunes by this traffic, which,
indeed, was nearly all profit, as the goods sent there were of very
small value. The trepang fishery, now the principal source of wealth
to these islands, then scarcely existed, and the return cargoes of the
prahus consisted chiefly of less bulky articles, such as amber, pearls,
tortoise-shell and birds-of-paradise.
Towards the close of the last century, when the rigorous monopoly of
the Dutch had induced other natives to produce spices, which were
cultivated with success by the French in the Isle of Bourbon, and by
the English on the west coast of Sumatra, the Moluccas began to decline
in importance, and with a view to reduce government expenditure, the
Dutch withdrew their military establishments from the islands to the
southward. The Bughis, an enterprising people from the southern part
of the island of Celebes, and Chinese merchants from Java and Macassar,
immediately engrossed the trade with the islands:--the wars which broke
out in Europe about this time affording them great encouragement, since
the Dutch, sufficiently occupied in maintaining their more important
possession, could offer little interruption. The British, during their
short occupation of the Moluccas, were so exclusively occupied by the
immediate affairs of newly-acquired settlements, that the countries
beyond their limits were, in a great measure, neglected; indeed, the
inhabitants of some of the more remote islands were not aware that the
Moluccas had changed masters; the Dutch flags left among them many
years previously, being still hoisted on festive occasions.
When Java and its dependencies were restored to Dutch dominion after
the peace of 1814, their East India Company had ceased to exist; the
Government, however, continued to monopolize the traffic with the
Moluccas. The Chinese merchants of Java and Macassar had, by this time,
embarked largely in the trade with the Arru and Serwatty Islands;
several brigs and large prahus, manned with Javanese, but having
Chinese supercargoes, annually resorting to them from Sourabaya, and
the other commercial ports to the westward.
Christianity, the seeds of which had been sown by the Dutch during
their occupation of the islands, also began to spread among the
inhabitants, and the native Amboynese teachers, who established
themselves in some of the chief villages, were encouraged rather than
molested by the Bughis and Chinese traders, these perceiving that their
interests would be promoted by any advance the natives might make in
civilization. The Bughis, unlike the Malayan and Ceramese Mohammedans,
care little about making proselytes; neither do the Chinese feel much
inclination to obtain converts to their half atheistical creed, which
they themselves seem disposed to ridicule.
The founding of Singapore by Sir Stamford Raffles, in the year 1819,
forms an important era in the history of the Indian Archipelago.
The liberality of the institutions adopted there gave an impulse
to commerce and civilization throughout the Eastern Seas, and even
the most distant and barbarous tribes have not been excluded from
participation in the general improvement. Among the first to avail
themselves of this new state of affairs, were the enterprising Bughis
tribes of Celebes, who flocked to Singapore by thousands, delighted
at the favourable opportunity offered them for disposing of their
produce to Europeans and Chinese merchants, without being subjected to
extortionate imposts, or the annoyances of custom-house officers, which
had hitherto checked their enterprize.
The islands in the eastern part of the Archipelago were, however,
too distant from this emporium for the natives to partake of the
benefits it offered, in an equal degree with those of the countries
more adjacent. The greater portion of the produce afforded by the Arru
and neighbouring islands, was collected and brought by the Bughis to
Celebes, where it was re-shipped for Singapore; at least twelve months
being required to send the goods to market and receive the returns.
It was chiefly to establish an intercourse with the natives of these
parts, by presenting to them a more convenient mart for their produce,
that a British settlement was formed on Melville Island, near the coast
of Australia, in 1824, by Captain, now, Sir J.J. Gordon Bremer, and if
this, and the settlement subsequently formed at Raffles Bay, proved
unsuccessful, it is more to be attributed to our want of information
concerning these islands than to any other cause. Two small vessels
successively were sent among them by the authorities of Melville
Island, neither of which returned. It will be seen by M. Kolff's
narrative, that, unhappily, both these vessels directed their course to
parts previously unvisited by foreigners, and that the natives, unable
to resist the temptation of acquiring more valuable property than they
had ever before contemplated, attacked and plundered them, killing the
greater portion of their crews. Had they visited the parts of these
islands which were frequented by the traders, they might have done so
with comparative safety, as the natives there would have been too well
aware of the value of commerce to risk the danger of putting a stop to
it by an action likely to draw upon them the vengeance of a powerful
people.
From M. Kolff's voyage having been undertaken so soon after our
occupation of Melville Island, there is some reason to believe, that
the formation of that settlement had considerable influence in inducing
the Dutch Government suddenly to take a deep interest in the islands
adjacent to it, which had been almost totally neglected for half a
century previously. Whether this voyage was beneficial or otherwise to
the British interest in that quarter the reader will be able to judge
from the work itself, but, at all events, we have to thank M. Kolff
for information which cannot but be valuable, now that we are about
to found another settlement in that part of the world; H.M. ships
_Alligator_ and _Britomart_, again under the command of Sir Gordon
Bremer, being on their voyage to the northern coast of Australia for
the purpose. The arrangement of the work for publication has afforded
the Translator occupation and amusement during a long voyage, and he
trusts it may be the means of conveying useful information concerning a
simple and industrious people, occupying a number of richly productive
islands, in the immediate vicinity of a continent which may be
considered a vast British colony, and with whom his countrymen may open
an intercourse likely to prove advantageous to both parties.
H.M. Ship _Alligator_,
Sydney.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: Si quelque habitans de Banda avaient acquis des
richesses, ils ne les avaient nullement à l'industrie agricole, mais
à la contrabande et au commerce avec les îles d'Arauw (Arru), ou ils
envoyaeint des embarcations dirigées par les esclaves qu'on leur avait
procurés pour l'entretien des pares (_spice plantations_). Quelques
individus ont fait de cette manière une immense fortune.--_Count de
Hogendorp's "Coup-d'œil sur l'Isle de Java,"_ p. 333.]
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
EXPEDITIONS IN THE MOLUCCA AND JAVA SEAS.
PAGE
Outward Voyage.--Tristan D'Acunha.--English Settlement.--Expedition
in the Molucca Seas.--Voyage to
Palembang and Banka.--Fidelity of Javanese Seamen.--Expedition
to Macassar.--Particulars concerning the
Macassar War. 1
CHAPTER II.
TIMOR.
Object of the Voyage.--Sail for Timor.--Arrive at the
Portuguese Settlement of Dilli.--Poverty of the Inhabitants.--Mean
Reception.--Agriculture much neglected.--Slave
Trade.--Symptoms of Distrust on the Part of
the Portuguese.--Discontented state of their Native
Subjects.--Departure for the Island of Wetta. 29
CHAPTER III.
THE SERWATTY ISLANDS.
Arrival at the Island of Wetta.--Productions.--Trade.--Interview
with the natives.--Destruction of the chief
village.--Depart for Kissa.--The Christian inhabitants.--The
fort Vallenhoven.--Friendly reception by the
natives.--Beauty of the landscape.--State of agriculture.--Attachment
of the people to the Dutch government.--General
assemblage of the people.--Performance of divine
service.--Native hospitalities.--Order, neatness and industry
of the people of Kissa. 40
CHAPTER IV.
LETTE.
Arrival at the Island of Lette.--Anchoring Place.--Series
of Disasters.--Character of the Inhabitants.--The
Mountaineers.--Differences among the Islanders.--Good Effects
of our Mediation.--Respect entertained by the Natives
towards the Dutch Government. 57
CHAPTER V.
MOA AND ROMA.
Boat Expedition to the Island of Moa.--Good Inclination
of the Inhabitants.--The Block-house.--The Duif
Family.--Character of the People.--Respect entertained
by the Heathen towards the Christian Inhabitants.--State
of Civilization and Public Instruction.--Kind Hospitality
of the Natives.--Their Feelings of Attachment and Confidence
towards the Dutch Government.--Departure for
the Island of Roma. 70
CHAPTER VI.
DAMMA.
Arrival at the Island of Damma.--Description of the Country
and Inhabitants.--Warm Springs.--Retrograde Movements
of the Natives in point of Civilization.--Their
Attachment to the Religion and Manners of the Dutch.--Productions
of the Soil.--Dangerous Channel along the
Coast.--The Columba Globicera.--Wild Nutmeg Trees.--General
Meeting of the Chiefs.--Transactions of M. Kam. 91
CHAPTER VII.
LAKOR.
Description of the Island Lakor.--Coral Banks.--Shyness
of the Inhabitants.--Productions.--Singular Expedition.--Childish
Litigiousness and obstinate Implacability.--Native
Hospitality.--Customs and Dress of the People. 107
CHAPTER VIII.
LUAN.
Arrival at the Island Luan.--Dangerous Passage.--Our
Reception by the People.--Commerce and Fisheries.--The
Christians of Luan.--Their Customs and Dispositions.--Hospitality
and Good Nature of the Inhabitants.--Hazardous
Situation on leaving the Island. 117
CHAPTER IX.
BABA.
Voyage towards Banda.--Remarks on the Islands Sermatta,
Teon and Nila.--Arrival at Banda.--Humanity of an
Orang-Kaya.--Description of the Island Baba.--Great
Fear and Distrust of the Inhabitants.--Their Manners
and Customs.--The Island Wetang.--Cause of the Distrust
of the Natives.--Murderous and plundering Propensities
of the People of Aluta.--Disturbances between
the Inhabitants of Tepan and Aluta. 129
CHAPTER X.
THE ARRU ISLANDS.
Daai Island.--Singular Change in the Colour of the Sea.--Festivities
on Board.--The Arru Islands.--Description
of these remarkable Regions.--Customs of the Arafuras.--Total
Absence of Religion.--Proofs of the Mildness of
their Form of Government.--Singular Treatment of their
Dead. 149
CHAPTER XI.
THE ARRU ISLANDS.
Trade of the Arru Islands.--Chief Productions.--Trepang.--The
Island Vorkay.--The Pearl Fishery.--The Arafuras
of Kobroor and Kobiwatu.--Duryella, the capital
of Wama.--The Schoolmaster.--Homage paid by the
Natives to M. Kam. 171
CHAPTER XII.
THE ARRU ISLANDS.
Gathering of the People at Wokan.--Religious Exercises
of the People.--Their singular Mode of Dress.--The
Church.--The Fort.--State of Christianity on Wokan.--Dobbo,
an important Trading Place.--Commercial Advantages
that may be gained there.--Valuable Fishery.--The
Pilandok.--Ludicrous alarm of the Arafuras. 187
CHAPTER XIII.
THE ARRU ISLANDS.--THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.
Arrival at the Island Wadia.--Particulars concerning the
Island and its Inhabitants.--Dispute between them and
the Orang Tua of Fannabel.--Sad Result of their
Contentions.--Departure from the Arru Islands.--Arrival at
the Tenimber Group.--Vordate.--Ignorance and Perplexity
of the Pilot.--Singular Customs.--Violent Conduct
of the People of Timor-Laut.--The Inhabitants of
Watidal and their Chiefs. 206
CHAPTER XIV.
THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.
Visit to Watidal.--Respect shown to the Dutch Flag.--The
English supposed by the Natives to be _Orang-gunung_,
or Mountaineers.--The Prosperity of the People
inseparable from the Rule of the Dutch over these Countries.--Traces
of the Christian Religion having formerly
obtained here.--Departure from Larrat to Vordate.--Allurements
of the latter Island.--The Inhabitants of the
Tenimber Islands.--Their Manners and Customs.--Mode
of Warfare.--Striking Proofs of their Attachment to the
Dutch Government. 232
CHAPTER XV.
THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.
The Village Chiefs of Sebeano.--Ludicrous Mistake.--War
between Romian and Ewena.--The insignificant
Cause which gave rise to it.--Successful Attempts at
Reconciliation.--Contribution towards giving a Knowledge
of their Character.--State of the Country.--Productions
and Commerce.--The Author visits Larrat.--Uncivil
Reception at Kalioba.--Departure for Watidal.--Meeting
on the North-west Point of Timor Laut.--Departure
for Serra. 249
CHAPTER XVI.
THE TENIMBER ISLANDS.
Departure for the Island Maling.--Laboba Island.--Productive
Fishery.--Heavy Dew on the Island Wau.--Arrival
at the Village of Maktia.--Occurrences there.--One
of the Crew severely wounded.--Return towards
Vordate.--Return of the Envoys to Serra.--Want of
Water.--Poisonous Beans.--Death of the wounded Man.--Return
to the Brig.--Arrival of the Chiefs of Serra.--Transactions
at Vordate.--Departure from the Tenimber
Islands.--Arrival at Amboyna. 268
CHAPTER XVII.
THE CERAM-LAUT AND GORAM ISLANDS.
Preparations for a Voyage to New Guinea.--Departure
from Amboyna.--Banda.--Arrival at Kilwari.--Ghissa.--Character
of the Inhabitants.--Visit from the Chiefs of Kilwari and
Keffing.--Their Wars.--Force of the Islanders.--The Ceram Laut
Islands.--Their Vessels.--Commerce.--Exclusive Right assumed by
the Inhabitants over the Coast of New Guinea.--Smuggling Trade
of the English.--Papuan Pirates devour their
Prisoners.--Slaves.--Sale of Children by their Parents. 284
CHAPTER XVIII.
GORAM AND THE ARRU ISLANDS.
The Keffing Islands.--Dwellings of the Chiefs.--Pass the
Goram Islands.--Description of the same.--Acquaintance
of the Natives with the Coast of New Guinea.--The
Products of these Islands of vital Importance to Banda.--Small
Portion of the Trade enjoyed by our Settlements.--Coin.--Costume
of the Inhabitants.--Equipment of Paduakan.--Snake-Eaters.--The
Fishery.--Arrival of the Brig at Wadia.--Number of trading Prahus
at Dobbo.--Adjustment of Disputes.--Christian Teachers on
the Arru Islands.--Their Poverty.--Visit Wokan.--Appointment
of an Upper Orang Kaya, and other Transactions
on the Arru Islands. 302
CHAPTER XIX.
NEW GUINEA.
Voyage towards the St. Bartholomeus River.--Encounter
a Multitude of Whales.--Discover a Sand-bank.--Nautical
Remarks.--Difficulty in approaching the Land.--Sharks.--Crocodiles.--Discover
a River.--The Author ascends it.--Remarkable Behaviour of the
Natives.--Their Wild State.--Unable to land.--Arrival at an uninhabited
Bay on the Island of Lakahia.--Visit from some of the Chiefs. 317
CHAPTER XX.
NEW GUINEA.
Armed Boats sent on Shore.--Treacherous Attack of the
Natives.--A Soldier killed.--Cowardly Conduct of the
Officers in Charge of the Watering-Party.--The Author
personally visits the Bay.--Causes of the Barbarism of
the Natives of New Guinea.--Faithless and arbitrary
Conduct of the Ceramese.--Profitable Nature of the
Trade.--Departure from New Guinea. 332
CHAPTER XXI.
THE KI AND TENIMBER ISLANDS.
The Ki Islands.--Character of the People.--Arrive at
Vordate.--Improved Condition of the Natives.--Ceramese
Pirates.--The English Captives at Luora.--The Author
departs for Serra in the Boats.--Meet with a Prahu-tope.--Honesty
of the Natives in their Dealings.--Arrival at
Serra.--Native Warfare.--Ceremonies attending the
Peace-making.--Return towards Vordate.--Turtles and
their Eggs.--Wild Cattle.--Arrival on Board the Brig.--Singular
Customs with regard to Trade.--Demand for
Gold Coin.--Departure from the Tenimber Islands.--Arrival
at Amboyna.--Approval of our Proceedings by
the Government.--Conclusion. 344
[Illustration:
THE
INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
1837.]
VOYAGES
OF THE
DUTCH BRIG DOURGA,
&c. &c.
CHAPTER I.
EXPEDITIONS IN THE MOLUCCA AND JAVA SEAS.
Outward Voyage.--Tristan D'Acunha.--English Settlement.--Expedition
in the Molucca Seas.--Voyage to Palembang and Banka.--Fidelity of
Javanese Seamen.--Expedition to Macassar.--Particulars concerning the
Macassar War.
As an introduction to the narrative, I will communicate to the reader
a short account of my outward voyage to India, and of the various
expeditions in which I was engaged previous to undertaking the voyage
to the eastern parts of the Indian Archipelago, which forms the subject
of this volume.
In January 1817, I was appointed by the Minister of Marine to the
corvette _Venus_, Commander B.W.A. Van Schuler, then lying in the Niewe
Diep, ready for sea on a voyage to Batavia. On the 28th of the same
month we sailed, under a salute of the guns, and having sent away the
pilot with parting letters to our friends, we stood out to sea, the
shores of our beloved country soon fading from view.
Remarkable events seldom occurring during the outward voyage, a few
words will suffice to give an account of our proceedings. In the month
of April we arrived off Tristan D'Acunha, and having espied a number of
huts on the shores of a bay on the north side of the island, we stood
towards them, and anchored in twenty-five fathoms, tolerably close to
the land. When viewed from a distance the island has the appearance of
a single high mountain, the sides rising abruptly out of the sea. The
bay in which we anchored lies open to the sea, and therefore can afford
no shelter to vessels. Its shores were steep and lined with alternate
patches of sand and rock, against which the sea beat with great
violence. The snow-white foam of the surf, glittering in the sun-beams,
contrasted strikingly with the soft green of the uplands; the charming
prospect this afforded being embellished by a beautiful waterfall
tumbling into the sea from the hills above.
The English establishment, which had been fixed here a short time
previous to our visit, consisted of seventy-four men, with their wives,
under the command of Major Kloete, the settlement being a dependance of
the Cape of Good Hope. It had already made great progress, agriculture
being carefully attended to; and among other vegetables we were
delighted to find an abundance of excellent potatoes. The industrious
and orderly habits of these settlers, coupled with their civility
towards strangers, of which we had evidence in the friendly reception
we met with, entitled them to every praise. This settlement, however,
now no longer exists.
After our departure from Tristan D'Acunha we encountered a severe gale,
in which we lost two topmasts, the foremast and bowsprit. Lieutenant
Vendoren with seven seamen also fell overboard, and the former only was
saved. On the 29th of June we arrived at Batavia, and after a short
stay there, departed for the populous town of Sourabaya to refit our
damaged vessel.
The first expedition in which we were engaged was directed against
Ceram and Sapanua, where some serious disturbances had taken place. On
the 22nd of February 1818 we obtained a decided victory over the Sultan
Muda of Batjoli in the Moluccas, for which I believe, our commander, M.
Van Schuler, was made Knight of the third class of the Military Order
of William.
During the whole of the year 1818, we were employed in cruizing among
the Molucca Islands, for the prevention of piracy and the contraband
trade, especially the illegal sale of gunpowder to the natives in
a state of insurrection. The pirates sometimes behave with great
boldness, deriving confidence from the rapidity with which their
light vessels can escape into the numerous creeks; the oars which
they use when the wind is contrary giving them great advantages in
point of swiftness over our cruizers. A couple of steam-boats, which
would be able to follow them into their lurking places, would be very
efficacious in ridding us of these plagues.
On the 12th of January 1819, the then Governor of the Moluccas, General
De Kock, with his family, embarked on board the _Venus_ for the purpose
of being conveyed to Java. We sailed on the following day, and did
not reach Batavia until the 4th of May following. During this tedious
passage, a beautiful collection of the birds of the Moluccas, the
property of the General, died from want of food. Salt meat and biscuit
formed our sole diet during the greater part of the voyage, and it is
surprising that with such provisions, we did not have considerable
sickness on board.
We now proceeded to Sourabaya, being accompanied by Captain Stout,
of the Colonial Marine, with several light vessels. When off the
Taggal Mountain we encountered some piratical vessels, and having been
several times employed with native seamen, speaking their language with
tolerable fluency, I was placed in charge of a Korra-korra, and sent
in chase. Captain Stout met with a sad accident on this occasion. A
gun that had been fired by the Captain himself, perhaps from its being
overloaded, recoiled so much that it burst through the bulwarks on the
opposite side of the vessel and fell overboard, striking the Captain
violently on the breast during its passage, and causing the almost
immediate death of this brave seaman.
In the latter part of the year 1819, the _Venus_ was placed in
readiness to return to the mother country. Our joyful expectations,
however, were soon disappointed, for the disturbances which had broken
out at Palembang, rendered it necessary that the corvette should
proceed there, to be in readiness to act against the Sultan Mohammed
Badr-el-Din; and on the 4th of December we arrived in the roads of
Minto, on the island of Banka, to await the time when our services
would be required.
All prospects of a speedy return home were thus destroyed, but
I consoled myself with the consideration that duty required the
sacrifice, and that I could serve my country in these remote regions as
well as in the Netherlands. Our foreign possessions, indeed, though far
distant, are still provinces of the fatherland.
Actuated by these considerations, I willingly accepted the offer made
to our junior officers to enter the Colonial Navy, and receive the
command of a gun-boat armed with an 18-pounder, two 8-pounders, some
swivels, and manned with thirty men, chiefly Javanese, the same rank
being given me with that I held in the Royal Navy. I was now sent
to the east coast of Banka, for the purpose of keeping the pirates
in check, and of keeping open the communication with the tin mines.
At first I was accompanied by the schooner _Zeemeeuw_, Lieutenant
Alewyn, but this vessel was soon ordered on another station, and
I remained here eight months, in daily contact with the pirates,
without the assistance of other Europeans; this period forming by
no means the most agreeable portion of my stay in India. I had often
serious engagements with the famed Radin Allin, who, however, never
was courageous enough to board the gun-boat. Had he done so, our only
resource would have been to blow up our vessel, to prevent her falling
into the hands of the pirates, as the great superiority of their force
would have rendered it impossible to withstand them. This Radin Allin
displayed great intrepidity on several occasions. Once, while I was
conveying some vessels to Kaba, he took advantage of my absence to
attack and carry the fort of Batu-Rusa, on the Marawang river. On my
return I found him still in the river with a large number of prahus,
where I blockaded him until the month of September 1820, when I at
length received assistance from Minto, at a period when such relief had
become of the greatest necessity, as I had often thought that my last
hour had arrived. Of my crew, only a few natives remained, the others
having either been killed or sent to the hospital.
During these hazardous expeditions I had frequent opportunities of
witnessing the fidelity of the Javanese seamen in the hour of danger.
Their behaviour and disposition prepossessed me very much in favour of
the nation to which they belonged, and during my subsequent voyaging
in India, where I considerably increased my acquaintance with them,
I never had occasion to alter the favourable opinion I had formed.
When a Javanese is treated with consideration, and is not subjected to
tyrannical treatment, he is as much to be trusted as an European, and
submits far more readily to control.
The force which came to my relief consisted of several vessels under
the command of Lieutenant Colonel Keer, destined to act against the
chiefs of the rebels, Radin Allin and Radin Kling, and I now obtained
permission to return to Minto. In the beginning of 1821, I departed
thence for Sourabaya, with the view of having the gun-boat repaired, as
it was ordered to take part in the expedition which during that year
re-established our authority at Palembang. The particulars of that
renowned expedition being still fresh in the memory of my readers, I
will give no circumstantial account of our proceedings, but I will
relate a few occurrences in which I was personally engaged. After
the first attack, when our fleet had retired to its former position,
it was my good fortune to rescue Lieutenant Boerhave and his men,
together with the crew of another gun-boat, both of which had fallen
into the hands of the enemy; and on the following 24th of June, during
the second assault, the gun-boat under my command opened the way
through the strong barricade erected across the river to the attack
of the great floating battery, on which I was the first to plant the
Netherlands flag. As a token of particular approbation on the part
of the Government for this deed, three of my small crew received the
decoration of the military order of William.
After the termination of this renowned expedition, which ended in
the entire conquest of the kingdom of Palembang, I received orders
to accompany General De Kock to Batavia. In the month of August
I was appointed to the schooner _Calypso_, which circumstance I
only mention for the purpose of rendering a just tribute to the
meritorious character of Lieutenant Sondervan her commander. In this
vessel I passed the entire year 1822, making several voyages in her,
circumnavigating Java, and visiting the mines of Sambas and Pontiana,
in Borneo. M. Tobias, the commissioner for our establishments in
Borneo, was on board the schooner the greater portion of the time. The
agreeable society of this gentleman, coupled with the unbroken harmony
that prevailed among us, rendered these voyages extremely pleasant,
notwithstanding the hardships and fatigues we underwent. We made
several journeys into the interior of Borneo, and inspected the mines
of the Chinese, which are here very numerous. I will not particularise
the voyages I subsequently undertook to Banka, Sumatra, and many other
of our possessions, which I performed with pleasure, as they gave me
many opportunities of gathering information concerning these countries
and their native inhabitants.
Having thus passed a considerable time in India, without experiencing
the lassitude of which Europeans in that part of the world so generally
complain, I was appointed adjutant to my former chief, Captain Van
Schuler, who had now become Commandant and Director of the Colonial
Marine. Although I was much pleased by the honourable notice with which
my brave chief favoured me, I soon became tired of an idle life at
Batavia. I had been so long accustomed to the navigation of these seas,
that I could not refrain from soliciting the Governor General, Van Der
Capellen, to place me again in active service.
While performing a journey overland from Batavia to Sourabaya in
company with Captain Van Schuler, I took the opportunity of visiting
Bantjar, in the district of Rembang, where I saw the beautiful frigate
_Javaan_, with several brigs and schooners, then in the course of
construction for the Colonial Navy.[2] The command of one of these was
promised to me on this occasion. I will pass over the description of
this part of Java, as being unconnected with the object of the work. We
met with few occurrences worthy of remark, for I do not consider our
adventure in crossing the Sumadang Mountains, where our carriage was
overturned, of sufficient importance to detain me in my narrative.
On my return to Batavia I was promoted to a Lieutenancy of the first
class in the Colonial Marine, and at my urgent request was suffered
to throw up my appointment as Adjutant, when I was invested with the
command of H.M. Brig _Dourga_,[3] with orders to ship a crew, and
fit her out in readiness to accompany the Governor General on his
expedition to the Moluccas in 1824. So recently promoted, invested
with a new command, and about to become a fellow-voyager with his
Excellency, it will readily be conceived that my zeal was of the
strongest, and that I exerted myself to the utmost to show myself
worthy of the favours that had been conferred upon me.
After remaining a considerable time at Amboyna, a settlement
distinguished by the courtesy and hospitality of its European
inhabitants, we sailed for Banda in the train of the Governor General,
(who was embarked in the frigate _Eurydice_), where we arrived on the
18th of April. The Gunung Api volcano was in a state of violent action
at the time, filling the atmosphere with fire and smoke, the volumes of
the latter being ejected with such force, that their collision caused
constant vivid flashes of lightning, accompanied by a rumbling noise
like that of thunder. This outbreak of nature was indescribably fine
and majestic, and is memorable for having formed a new crater in the
north-west side of the mountain. The town of Banda, remained, however,
uninjured.
From Banda we sailed for Sapanua, an island well known from the war
which took place there in 1817, and I subsequently proceeded to Menado
and Macassar, where I took part in the expedition called forth by the
war that had broken out in Celebes.
The mode of warfare which obtains among the Macassars, differs
considerably from that adopted by the other natives of the Archipelago,
than whom they are more wealthy and better armed, while at the same
time they take the lead in cleverness and ferocity. When under their
own chiefs, they are not remarkable for shewing that courage which
is commonly ascribed to them, especially to the Bughis, this being
displayed rather upon the sea than on land. They will rarely stand
firm against the attacks of regular troops in the field, but fight
well from ambuscades or from behind entrenchments. Their arms consist
of very good guns, manufactured by themselves, with spears, krisses,
klewangs and lelahs.[4] The chiefs and head warriors wear armour, made
of plaited iron or copper wire, which they call baju-ranti or chain
shirt: it will resist a thrust from the klewang or kriss, but affords
no protection against a musket ball.
In the southern parts of Celebes, horses of a very good description
are to be met with, which the natives manage with considerable skill.
A cushion stuffed with cotton, and laid upon the animal's back, forms
their saddle, on which they sit cross-legged, and with this simple
contrivance their seat is so firm that they take bold leaps, and scour
across the country in a manner truly surprising. When a chief is
killed, his relatives and slaves do not care to survive, but a case of
this sort rarely takes place, as the former usually remain on spots
free from danger. The Bughis will carry their slain off the field of
battle at every risk, and will submit to great loss rather than fail
in this object. It is difficult, however, to draw them into making an
assault _en masse_.
We anchored off the town of Macassar on the 5th of July, 1824, the
king of the northern part of the state of which this is the capital,
having by this time followed the example of the Bughis of Boni in
rising against our government. On the 14th of the same month we sailed
for Tannette, (a town on the west coast of Celebes,) with troops and
munitions of war, our vessel forming part of a flotilla consisting
of the brigs Sirene, Nautilus, Jacoba-Elizabeth, and Dourga, with
the corvette Courier, two gun-boats, and some prahus with native
auxiliaries; the naval force being under the orders of Commander Buys,
while the troops were led by Lieutenant Colonel De Steurs. Having
assembled before Tannette, we formed into line and cannonaded the
enemy's fortification, while at the same time the troops were landed
and some gained possession of the forts and villages, together with
some strongholds farther up the country. The loss on our side was
small, but the enemy suffered greatly in killed and wounded. After
sustaining this defeat, the king retired into the interior, and refused
to submit. On the 22nd, Colonel De Steurs departed with the troops
towards Macassar, with the intention of chastising the treacherous
inhabitants of Labakang and Pankalina, those towns lying in the route.
The squadron followed their march along the coast, with the view of
affording assistance should it be required. The number of reefs and
banks render the navigation of the coast hazardous and difficult; but
the fishermen of the islands piloted us through them with safety.
During the passage our armed boats were constantly employed on the
coasts, more for the purpose of checking the plundering propensities
displayed by our native allies from Goa, than for the annoyance of
the enemy. Plunder, indeed, seemed to be the chief object of these
auxiliaries, for when they were required to fight, they either remained
idle or took to their heels.
On the 24th we reached Macassar, the inhabitants of the intermediate
coast having speedily been brought under subjection. The expedition had
been fortunate and successful in every respect, and inspired us with
so much confidence that we eagerly desired to be again led against the
enemy.
An expedition consisting of 200 troops, under the command of
Lieutenant-colonel Reder, was now set on foot to attack the Raja of
Supa, the squadron being again employed in conveying them to their
destination. On the 4th of August we anchored in the bay of Supa, and
as the enemy obstinately refused to negociate, no other course remained
for us than to land the troops, and prepare to carry into effect the
orders of our Government. It immediately became apparent that the
resources of the enemy had been incorrectly reported to us, and that
more difficulty would be experienced in reducing the place than we had
been led to believe would have been the case.
Supa, the capital, is extended near the shore on the north-east side
of the bay, and is difficult of approach from seaward. The town, which
lies low, is bounded on the south side by extensive rice fields, while
to the south-west, in which direction the squadron lay, it is separated
from the sea by a ridge of hills.
On the morning after our arrival, the troops, with detachments of
seamen from the ships, were landed in good order under cover of the
guns of the squadron. Our attack upon the well-fortified town of Supa
was unsuccessful, the troops being driven back to the hills, of which,
however, they maintained possession; the enemy returning into the
town, with the exception of a number of horsemen, who remained at the
foot of the hills, and some detachments which took up positions to the
southward. Towards evening some mortars and brass six-pounders were
landed, and placed in battery against the town. The firing was at first
attended with little loss on either side, but the war-cries of the
Bughis convinced us that they were assembled in great force.
Repeated attempts were now made to set fire to the strongholds of the
enemy, but they were unsuccessful, and attended with considerable loss.
The vessels employed in keeping up the communication with Macassar had
by this time brought a number of native auxiliaries furnished by the
king of Sidenreng, but these took up a position to the southward, and
never emerged from their hiding places.
Information which was now received of our garrisons at Pankalina and
Labakang, consisting of sixty men each, having been overpowered and
massacred to a man, spread dismay and dejection among the troops,
while, through the weak indulgence of our commandant, military
discipline was often disregarded, and our operations consequently, were
deficient in point of combination. A second general assault was not
determined on until the men had been wearied by useless skirmishing.
All the men that could be spared from the ships were now ordered on
shore, and on this as on the previous occasion I served with them; the
command of the left wing of the battery being entrusted to me, while
the right was under the direction of Commander Buys.
At daylight on the 14th, after our batteries had for some time played
with vigour on the town, Lieutenant-colonel Reder advanced to the
attack with one hundred and fifty soldiers, one hundred seamen, and
forty marines, whom the enemy allowed to approach close under the wall
without firing a shot. Their cavalry had in the meantime been posted
out of sight on the south side of the town, and when our troops had
reached the walls, and commenced a sharp combat with those within,
the cavalry fell upon them in flank, penetrated right through them,
and even close up to our breast-works. The confusion created by this
movement was so great, that notwithstanding the efforts of the officers
the flight soon became general, and the disorder communicating itself
to the reserve, the enemy were enabled to cause us considerable loss.
The superior courage of Europeans soon, however, restored matters to
order, for the fire of case-shot from our batteries checked the career
of the enemy, and our troops having by this time rallied became the
assailants in their turn, and drove the Bughis back to their batteries.
Our advantage over the enemy was limited to this, so that our attack
was attended with much bloodshed without being successful. We had
to lament the loss of two brave officers, Lieutenants Van Pelt and
Bannhoff, together with nearly one-third of the men engaged, six of my
own crew being killed on this fatal occasion. During the engagement our
auxiliaries remained in the positions they had taken up, and did not
stir a foot to assist us.
On the evening after this occurrence we were joined by Mr. Tobias,
the commissioner, Colonel De Steurs, and the Raja of Sidenreng, the
latter bringing with him a number of native auxiliaries. The arrival
of Colonel De Steurs gave great joy to our troops, this officer being
universally beloved and esteemed, but of what avail was his presence
now that the pith of our force had been expended in ill-directed
attacks? The enemy occasionally made night attacks on our position, but
were always driven back, our auxiliaries showing on these occasions
more courage than usual, repeatedly pursuing their adversaries close up
to their forts.
On the 22nd, the frigate _Eurydice_ joined the squadron, when a portion
of her crew, with two long eighteen-pounders and some Congreve rockets
were landed; the latter, however, did not answer our expectations
upon trial. Our endeavours to gain an advantage over the enemy were
still unattended by success, and our leader, seeing our force daily
diminished by useless skirmishes, determined on making another general
attack. Every body that could be spared from the ships, natives as
well as Europeans, were landed to join in the assault, the attacking
force now amounting to three hundred men, exclusive of the auxiliaries,
who could not be brought into motion. Our batteries had made several
breaches in the enemy's breast-works, but these had always been
repaired during the following night.
The general attack, which took place early in the morning, was
conducted with much bravery. The road to the town was studded with
sharp stakes, by which many of our people suffered severely. The
enemy in the meantime remained within their entrenchments, protecting
themselves from our shot by sitting in holes dug in the ground; and
on our advancing up to them they fought with desperation, surrounding
their wives and children, and determining to die to the last man rather
than surrender. Our troops were sometimes engaged hand to hand with
the enemy, who opposed our bayonets and swords with their _krisses_
and _klewangs_. At length Colonel De Steurs, finding that many of our
men, with a captain and a first lieutenant, had fallen, determined
to draw off our small body of heroes, with the intention of renewing
the attack with the reserve; but this was found impracticable, as the
latter, which consisted only of a small number of seamen from the
frigate, had already sustained considerable loss. The retreat was
therefore sounded, and thus, for the fourth time, had our efforts
proved unavailing. On this occasion, also, one-third of the attacking
force was placed _hors de combat_. We were, nevertheless, convinced
that had a correct report been given to the government of the force
of the enemy, and had our proceedings been conducted with order and
regularity, the victory must infallibly have been on our side. It is
a consolation, however, to know, that although the enemy maintained
their position, they experienced, in a forcible manner, the superiority
of our courage; for notwithstanding the relaxation of discipline
which at first prevailed, no one can deny that our men displayed
much personal bravery. The expedition, although unsuccessful, had
therefore the effect of inspiring the people of Supa with a dread of
the Dutch arms. According to the account of trustworthy natives, their
loss had been very great; indeed, their successes never gave them
sufficient confidence to emerge from behind their entrenchments. We now
endeavoured to reduce them by a close blockade, but in this we were
also unsuccessful; and this object was not effected until six months
afterwards, when General Geer appeared before the place with a force
much greater than that employed on the previous occasion.
On the 6th of October, the squadron left Supa for Macassar, carrying
away the troops, with the exception of one hundred men, who were left
under the command of Captain Van Doornum. The brig under my command,
together with a gun-boat, also remained, and we were soon joined by
the corvette Courier. On the 20th, I sailed for Macassar, and two days
afterwards, when off Tannette, a number of prahus were seen standing
in towards the fort there, in which we had a garrison of fifty men. On
perceiving the brig the prahus altered their course and stood out to
sea, a proceeding which aroused my suspicion, and as the sea breeze
prevented me from following them, I ran in, and brought up off the
mouth of the river. A small prahu soon came alongside, bringing the
information that the fort was beset on the land side by the enemy, who
threatened an attack with so large a force that our small garrison
could not possibly resist. The commandant wished to embark his men in
the brig and desert the fort; but as I could not receive them without
having received orders to that effect from the governor, I sent one of
the small vessels that attended the brig to Macassar, to make known to
the authorities there the hazardous position we were in. It appeared
that the enemy intended to have attacked the fort both by sea and
land, in which case not one of the garrison would have escaped. My
accidental arrival had fortunately prevented this double attack, which
would not have been the case had I come a day later, or had I missed
the prahus, the appearance of which caused me to anchor off the fort.
I therefore thanked Providence for leading me to adopt the route which
brought me near the besieged place, the garrison of which, but for this
opportune visit, must have experienced the same fate with that which
had already befallen those of Labakang and Pankalina. On the following
day the brig Nautilus arrived to relieve us.
In the mean time the people of Boni had risen, all the tribes to
the northward of Macassar being now in arms against us. The town of
Macassar was often threatened by the enemy, but they never ventured
an attack, being deterred by the force our ally, the king of Goa, had
brought into the field, and by the reinforcements that arrived from
Java. Preparations were now made for a grand expedition, the troops
that had been left at Supa and Tannette being withdrawn from their
uncomfortable posts to join the main force at Macassar.
On the 1st of December I sailed for Sourabaya, the brig being in want
of repairs; and on the 19th of January, 1825, returned to Bonthian
Bay, on the south coast of Celebes. On the 10th of March, General Van
Geen arrived there with the frigate Javaan, and a number of vessels
large and small. The general was accompanied by the Panambahan,[5] of
Samanap, on the island of Madura, who brought with him a number of
native auxiliaries, paid and equipped at his own expense; the Raja of
Goa also furnishing a large number of men for the expedition, who were
armed by our government. The ships of war were attended by a number of
transports; so that the fleet presented a very imposing appearance.
On the 16th of March the fleet sailed from Bonthian Bay, and
passing through the straits of Salayer, entered the Bay of Boni,
without incurring injury from the numerous coral reefs that were
scattered along our route. A melancholy accident occurred soon after
our departure from Bonthian. A detachment of three officers and
ninety-three light infantry men, had been embarked on board a prahu,
totally unfitted for a transport. Some vessels having been perceived
by the people on deck, they called out that some pirates had hove
in sight, on which those who were below rushed up, and climbing on
one side of the vessel, capsized her, only the three officers and
thirty-three of the men being saved.
Our operations commenced at Sengey, where the troops were landed, and
the enemy not only driven helter-skelter out of their intrenchments,
but forced also to evacuate the neighbouring country. The portion of
our force which marched overland having joined us, we pushed forward
to Batjua, the capital of the kingdom of Boni, taking and destroying
the stockades of the enemy as we advanced. Batjua consists of a chain
of beautiful villages, defended by stockades erected in the water and
well provided with guns. It is considered as the seat of the court of
Boni, although the king resides about an hour and a half's journey in
the interior. Being the chief commercial depôt of the kingdom, the
trade is considerable. We found a large number of prahus here, the
greater number of which had been hauled up on the beach to prevent our
destroying them.
General Van Geen determined to effect a landing here, and the enemy
having been drawn away from the beach by a clever _ruse_, the troops
were put on shore without difficulty. The Boniers fled before the
advance of our courageous soldiers, sustaining great loss in their
retreat. The town was found to have been evacuated by the enemy,
although two-hundred pieces of cannon of small calibre were mounted on
the walls. The troops brought to the field by the Panambahan of Samanap
behaved very well in the attack. Notwithstanding their defeat, the
enemy obstinately refused to enter into negotiations with us.
The armed boats of the squadron were constantly employed in landing
the troops, and in attacking the batteries of the enemy. On one of
these occasions we had the misfortune to lose Lieutenant Alewyn, the
commander of the brig Siwa, an officer universally esteemed.
I will pass over in silence many other particulars of minor importance,
connected with this expedition. As the westerly monsoon was now drawing
to a close, and the number of our sick had become very great, we found
it impossible to pursue the enemy into the interior. Macassar had been
freed from danger, Supa had been taken, and the island of Celebes
placed in a state of more tranquillity; but not a single native chief
had been brought under the subjection of our government, so that the
expedition had produced no other useful effect than that of affording
a new proof of the total inability of the natives to withstand the
courage and military skill of Europeans.
On the departure of the fleet from the Bay of Boni, my brig, together
with the _Nautilus_ and the _Daphne_, sailed for Amboyna, touching
at Buton on the way, to obtain refreshments. Every ship that had
been employed had a large number of their men sick, one fifth only
of the crew of my brig being fit for duty. My officers and myself
also suffered much; indeed, on our arrival at Amboyna there was not a
healthy man on board. This prevalence of sickness is to be attributed
to the fatigues we had endured, and it should act as a warning to our
government to deter them from undertaking expeditions like these except
in cases of urgent necessity, or when they have very important objects
in view.
I will now proceed to give an account of the more agreeable duties
entrusted to my charge, which I was fortunate enough to carry into
execution to the satisfaction of the government, and within a tolerably
short period of time.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 2: The yard in which these vessels were built, was
subsequently burned by the rebels; Mr. Waller, the shipwright, losing
all the property he had collected by his diligence.]
[Footnote 3: This name, unfamiliar to European ears, is derived from a
fable of the Bramins, whose religion once obtained in Java. Dourga was
the consort of the god Siva, in fact the Juno of the Jupiter of the
Hindoos. Many images of this deity are to be met with among the ruins
of the temples scattered over the island.]
[Footnote 4: The _kriss_ is a short dagger of a serpentine form; the
_klewang_, a sort of hanger or short sword; and the _lelah_, a cannon
of small calibre, usually composed of brass.]
[Footnote 5: Panambahan is a Javanese title, the possessor of which
takes precedence of a Pangeran or Prince, but ranks below a Raja or
Sultan.]