THE SERWATTY ISLANDS.
Arrival at the island of Wetta.--Productions.--Trade.--Interview
with the natives.--Destruction of the chief village.--Depart for
Kissa.--The Christian inhabitants.--The fort Vallenhoven.--Friendly
reception by the natives.--Beauty of the landscape.--State
of agriculture.--Attachment of the people to the Dutch
government.--General assemblage of the people.--Performance of divine
service.--Native hospitalities.--Order, neatness and industry of the
people of Kissa.
During the existence of the Dutch East India Company, a garrison of
their troops occupied the village of Sau, on the south coast of Wetta,
an island situated opposite the north coast of Timor. We directed our
course thither, and stood close along shore to search for the village
in question. The shores of the island were steep and hilly, but
luxuriantly clothed with trees, among which appeared at intervals the
huts of the inhabitants, the whole presenting a most picturesque view.
The natives appeared to be extremely shy, none of them making their
appearance on the beach, nor indeed seeming to wish to look at us.
On the 10th of June we arrived off Sau, and came to an anchor in fifty
fathoms water, about a cable's length from the shore, in a small bay,
where we lay tolerably well sheltered from the south-east winds by a
point of land. Having fired a gun, and hoisted the Dutch flag, two
natives made their appearance on the beach, to whom I sent one of
the interpreters, who soon brought them on board. They proved to be
Christian native chiefs, Hura, the Orang Kaya, and Dirk-Cobus, the
Orang Tua of the village.[8] Their appearance betokened great poverty,
and they complained bitterly of the miserable state into which they
had fallen since they had lost the protection of the Dutch. They
informed me that four years previously their village had been plundered
and burned to the ground, and several of their people killed, by the
inhabitants of Lette, since which occurrence they had deserted the
sea-coast, and had taken up their residence in the hills.
With the view of inspiring them with confidence, I went on shore
entirely alone, and landed near the remains of what had been a fine
walled village, containing a church and a guard-house. The number
of the fruit trees, and the luxuriant growth of the various plants,
gave evidence that the ground over which I walked possessed exceeding
fertility. A crowd of unconverted natives, who recognized the
above-mentioned Christian chiefs as their rulers, now joined us. They
were all armed with spears, bows, arrows, and _parangs_ or chopping
knives; but they soon laid these aside, and gave many tokens of
friendship and confidence. A small quantity of arrack and tobacco which
I distributed among them, put them in high spirits. With the exception
of the two chiefs, none of the natives spoke the Malayan language, nor
were my interpreters acquainted with their dialect.
On the beach I met with two sheds belonging to the people of Kissa, who
had been in the habit of coming here to barter cloth, iron and gold,
for sandal-wood, rice and Indian corn or maize. Coin is not in use as
a currency among the natives. Buffaloes, hogs, sheep and fowls may be
obtained here at a very cheap rate in exchange for cloth, but not in
very large numbers.
Having wandered for some time over this very beautiful country, we
approached the eastern extremity of the village, and sat down on
the banks of a river, which there emptied itself into the sea. They
appeared much pleased by this, and with much energy of manner expressed
their ardent desire to live once more in peace and quietude under the
rule of the Dutch, at the same time offering up thanks to heaven on
finding that the Company, (as they always styled our government) after
having so long abandoned them, had now again appeared. Although both
the chiefs spoke the Malayan language, I could not correctly understand
the answers to all the questions I put, but they clearly expressed
their desire to take up their residence again on the sea shore, and
requested that one or two European soldiers, with a teacher to instruct
them in the tenets of Christianity, might be left among them. For the
latter in particular they appeared to be extremely anxious. They also
made several other requests; on which I promised that the Netherlands'
government should watch over their interests, but that their prosperity
must depend chiefly on their own exertions.
From the account of the natives themselves, the sea coast population of
the island is far from being numerous, many of the inhabitants having
retired to the other islands after the destruction of Sau. On the other
hand, the mountaineers, who are called Arafuras, are in great numbers,
these simple people considering themselves as the subjects of the
inhabitants of the coast. The natives of the north and east coasts of
Wetta have a bad character, having plundered and murdered the crews of
two prahus a short time previous to my visit to the island.
The Arafuras of the interior had been in a very unsettled state some
time past, all regularity of government having been put an end to by
the death of the Raja, Johannes Pitta, whose heir had retired with his
mother to the island of Kissa. The natives besought me in the most
earnest manner to summon this young man back to his native island, and
install him as their chief.
The two chiefs and several of the people, returned with me to the brig,
where I presented them with some cloth and a Dutch flag, promising to
promote their interests to the best of my power at Kissa, towards which
island, having nothing more to detain me here, I now steered.
Kissa possesses only two anchoring places, one on the west, and the
other on the south-east side of the island. When seen from a distance
the land does not appear to be much elevated above the level of the
sea, but on a nearer approach it will be perceived that the shores rise
abruptly from the water, and are of a very rocky nature. Small creeks
and inlets are to be seen here and there, but these will only admit
prahus of a small draught of water. In former times Kissa was the seat
of the Dutch Residency of the south-west islands,[9] and it is still
the most populous of the group, the people being also farther advanced
in civilization than their neighbours.
In standing westward towards the roads, we ran close along the
south-west side of the island, where the violent breaking of the sea
against the steep shore, presented a very picturesque appearance; but
to us, who were at a very small distance from the land, the sight
was combined with something of the terrific. On the 13th of June we
anchored in a bight to the northward of the south-west point, on a
strip of sand and rocks, with very irregular soundings on it, and
moored the brig with a hawser made fast to the steep shore. The beach
was here flat and sandy, but was fronted by a reef, steep to on the
outer side, over which small prahus can go at the time of high water.
The inhabitants haul up their _jonkos_ (trading prahus of about twenty
tons burthen) on the beach.
The natives hoisted a Dutch flag on our arrival, and several of the
chiefs came off to welcome us to their shores shortly after we had come
to an anchor. I soon went on shore, accompanied by M. Kam and several
of the gentlemen, when we found a multitude of natives assembled on
the beach to receive us, provided with litters to carry us up into the
country. The proofs of joy at our arrival, evinced by the assembled
crowd, were indeed striking in the extreme.
My attention was first directed to the fort Vollenhoven, which was
situated a little to the northward of our anchorage, in the middle
of an extensive level plain. The fort consisted of an inclosure
about ninety feet square, formed by stone walls ten feet high and
three feet in thickness, with a gate on the east side, and a bastion
with four embrasures on the south-west and north-east corners. This
portion of the fort was still in a good and serviceable state, but
the interior works and the building had all fallen to the ground, the
greater portion of the materials having been destroyed by the white
ant.[10] We found five dismounted cannon lying on the sea bastion, one
a one-pounder, and the others four-pounders, which were still in good
condition. The fort, with all its contents, were considered by the
natives as the property of the old East India Company, and for this
reason had been preserved untouched by the natives, who viewed them as
relics. They eagerly offered to put these, together with the Residency
House, which was much decayed, into repair, if a Dutch garrison were
again placed among them.
Marna, the chief village, which lies inland about half an hour's
journey from the fort, is approached by means of a pathway, shaded by
high trees, running along a deep valley. The village has an appearance
of great neatness, the houses, many of which have the sides constructed
of planks, being surrounded by gardens kept in the greatest order; and,
although the buildings are of different heights and sizes, the village
has by no means an irregular appearance. It is enclosed on one side by
a stone wall, and on the other three by live hedges, or _pagga_ fences.
All the inhabitants profess the Christian religion, and the large and
well-built church in which they perform their devotions is kept in a
state of perfect order. The village altogether presents a charming
proof of the order, neatness, and industry of the inhabitants, by which
they have naturally arisen to a greater state of prosperity than will
be found in most other native places. The whole island consists of
clusters of hillocks, luxuriantly clothed with herbage, the summits
of which we often ascended to enjoy the delightful prospect afforded
by the villages and cultivated fields spread over the country, the
scene being enlivened by the presence of men, women and children,
busily pursuing their avocations. Agriculture, however, is not so much
attended to as could be wished, as the natives are obliged to import
rice and maize from Wetta, but cattle and stock are in the greatest
abundance.
The people of Kissa devote themselves chiefly to commercial pursuits,
carrying on a brisk trade with the neighbouring islands; and in
this point of view Kissa must be considered as the most important
in the group. Their commercial propensities, however, have been
disadvantageous to them as far as the improvement of agriculture is
concerned.
It had been arranged that a general meeting of the inhabitants
should take place on the 14th of June, to give me an opportunity of
making known to them the purport of my visit. At nine o'clock in the
morning of the day fixed on, I sent forward a detachment of twenty
armed European seamen to the village, under the command of one of
my officers, and soon afterwards I left the brig for the shore,
accompanied by Messrs. Ram and Dielwaart, with the officers of the
brig, the clerk and the interpreters, under a salute from the guns.
The natives received us on the beach with much ceremony, and conveyed
us in litters towards the town, amid the firing of lelahs and the
joyous shouts of the natives; these proofs of friendship being the more
agreeable from their evident sincerity.
To my great satisfaction, I found that nearly every chief of the island
was present at the meeting, and I was heartily welcomed by the upper
Orang Kaya in the name of them all. Immediately after this, the entire
multitude cried out simultaneously, "_Tarima kasipada tūhan Alla,
Compania būlūm lūpa sama kami orang_," ("Thanks be to God, the Company
have not yet forgotten us.")
The letter sent to them by the Governor of the Moluccas was now read
in a loud voice by the interpreter, under a salvo from the small
arms, according to the custom of the natives; and soon afterwards I
distributed among them the presents with which I had been furnished for
them by the Government. I have frequently observed, that the natives
never decide on any point at the moment, but consult with each other
until they have come to a determination. I therefore left them for a
time, that they might have their deliberations to themselves. On my
return, as I had expected, they expressed themselves very thankful for
the good wishes of the Government, and earnestly requested that a small
detachment of troops might be established among them as formerly, and
that the Government would send them also a missionary or teacher to
instruct them in the tenets of Christianity, for whose maintenance they
would amply provide. I now, in the name of the Government, confirmed
the authority of the various chiefs, in token of which I delivered
the staves of office[11] formerly presented to their chiefs by the old
East India Company, into the hands of their successors. The chief Orang
Kaya, Zacharis Frederick Bakker, had in his possession a certificate
of chieftainship furnished him by the present Government, which he
requested me to inspect. I then presented him with one of the silver
knobbed staves I had brought with me, promising that the Government
would afterwards replace it with one provided with a golden knob.
At this meeting, the fugitives from Wetta, (among whom was the heir
of the above-mentioned Orang Kaya, Pitta) were present. The chiefs of
Kissa promised henceforward to interest themselves in the affairs of
Wetta, in doing which they would be promoting their own welfare. I also
suggested to them how advantageous it would prove were they to bring
their productions to Banda and Amboyna, and gave them much advice as
to the best means by which they might increase their prosperity. After
this the assembly was broken up, amid a continued firing of lelahs in
all parts of the village.
In the meantime a long table had been laid out in the European fashion,
with plates, knives, forks and spoons, on which were placed pastry,
and other refreshments for our entertainment. The natives of these
parts are generally very partial to our national customs, and are also
desirous of following the Dutch fashions in their mode of dress. I took
my place at the table with the chiefs, while the seamen, who were not
forgotten, partook of a separate repast. I had brought on shore several
bottles of wine and liqueurs, which added greatly to the conviviality
of the meeting, many toasts applicable to the occasion being given.
Many of the natives, especially the more respectable, spoke a few words
of Dutch, and they took care to make their knowledge apparent at every
opportunity.
M. Kam having expressed a wish to perform divine service at the
church after the conclusion of the meeting, we entered this neat and
substantial building, where we found that every auditor was provided
with a proper seat, although, owing to our presence, the church was
very full. M. Kam gave a discourse in Malayan and Dutch. The unbroken
silence maintained by the auditors, their deep attention, and the truly
religious gravity which sat upon every countenance, rendered the scene
highly solemn and impressive. When the service was over, about sixty
of the natives, old as well as young, were christened by M. Kam, who
also united twelve couples in marriage.
The village church is ninety feet in length and forty in breadth, the
roof being elevated about, sixty feet from the ground. The costume
of the natives was rather singular. They had naturally clothed
themselves in their best on this important occasion, some wearing
old fashioned-coats with wide sleeves, and broad skirts; others
garments of the same description, but of a more modern cut, while
the remainder were clad in long black _kabyas_, or loose coats, the
usual dress of native Christians. The costume of those who were clad
in the old fashioned coats, was completed by short breeches, shoes
with enormous buckles, and three-cornered or round felt hats, of an
ancient description. Many of the women wore old Dutch chintz gowns or
jackets, the costume of the remainder being the native _sarong_ and
_kabya_. The heads of the women were adorned with ornaments of gold and
precious stones, but the men wore their long hair simply confined with
a tortoise-shell comb, after the mode adopted by the native Christians
of Amboyna. These quaint costumes acted as a considerable foil to
the sedateness of the meeting; but even the unpolished seamen did not
commit themselves by giving vent to their mirth, and the whole service
was performed amid the most perfect order and regularity.
After leaving the church we were invited with much kindness into many
of the private houses, and always found small tables laid out with
refreshments, the hosts endeavouring, to the best of their power, to
receive us with hospitality.
The people of Kissa are far in advance of those of Amboyna in point
of industry. Every house that we visited was surrounded by a garden,
laid out with much care, in which were planted Indian corn, tobacco,
cabbages, _siri_ (_piper betel_), and various sorts of culinary
vegetables, while large herds of cattle were grazing in the valleys.
It was late in the afternoon when we made preparations to return on
board. We left the village attended by a multitude of the people, the
seamen walking in advance, with drums beating and colours flying,
while the officers and myself were carried in litters as before, the
kind-hearted and thankful islanders greeting us with blessings and
shouts of joy, accompanied by the firing of their lelahs.
On my return on board, I judged it inadvisable to remain under the
coast during the night, as we were anchored with a cable of _gumuti_,
(the hairy bark of the _borassus gumutus_), which is more liable to
chafe over the rocks than those of European hemp. Indeed, towards
evening the cable parted, which obliged us to stand off and on during
the night. Ships navigating these seas should always be provided with
chain cables. While the eastern monsoon prevails, the current sets to
the eastward, or to windward through these islands, from Dilli, or
Timor, as far as the island of Baba. This remark will be of value to
navigators, as by taking advantage of this weather current they may
work to windward through these islands with facility.
On the morning of the 15th I again went on shore, and, after visiting
the village, penetrated farther into the interior than I had previously
been. Proofs of the industry and orderly habits of the natives were
encountered at every step. My attention was particularly drawn to the
course of instruction adopted at the schools, where all the children,
under nine or ten years of age, assembled to learn reading and writing,
and the rudiments of Christianity.
I observed a strong partiality for a military life among the young men,
and there can be no doubt that, if well disciplined, they would prove
excellent auxiliary troops for the Government.
Having confirmed the appointment of several chiefs, and fulfilled my
duties in every particular, I took a friendly leave of the Orang Kayas
and the people, who brought on board a quantity of provisions and
fruit as presents, and firing some guns as a last farewell to these
good-hearted islanders, we shaped our course for the adjacent island of
Lette.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 8: These two native titles, the first of which signifies
literally "rich man," and the other "old man," or "elder," are
the usual designations of the chiefs among the Moluccan and the
neighbouring island. When these have become Christians, they usually
adopt European names, as Dirk-Cobus (Diderik-Jacobus), the chief
mentioned in the text, had done.]
[Footnote 9: This group is named in our charts the Serwatty Islands,
probably a native corruption of the Dutch term "Zuid-wester"
(south-western). As this name has long been recognized, we have
continued it here to avoid confusion.--_Trans._]
[Footnote 10: These insects, which abound all over India, are very
mischievous, sometimes eating through and destroying a chest and its
contents in a single night. To prevent this the chests are usually
provided with feet, which are placed in small cups of water, the ants
having great dread of this element. On the other hand, these insects
do good service by destroying the carcases of dead animals, and thus
preventing them from polluting the atmosphere.]
[Footnote 11: These staves of office were canes with silver or golden
knobs, on which were engraven the arms of the East India Company and
the name of the chief to whom they were delivered, together with an
appropriate inscription.]