Upon two faces of the obelisk is engraven

DIVO CAES. DIVI

IVLII F. AVGVSTO

TI. CAES. DIVI AVG.

F. AVGVS. SACRVM.

It now bears on the top a cross in which it is said that Sextus V.

inclosed some of the holy wood; and under it is to be read by good eyes:

SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI

SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX.

CONSECRAVIT.

E. PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM

ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB.

I. L. ABLATUM M.D.LXXXVI.

On the four faces of the base below:

1. CHRISTVS VINCIT.

CHRISTVS REGNAT.

CHRISTVS IMPERAT.

CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO

PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT.

2. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX.

OBELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM

IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM

AD APOSTOLORVM LIMINA

OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT

AN. M.D.LXXXVI. PONT. II.

3. ECCE CRVX DOMINI

FVGITE PARTES

ADVERSAE

VINCIT LEO

DE TRIBV IVDA.

4. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX.

CRVCI INVICTAE

OBELISCVM VATICANVM

AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE

EXPIATVM IVSTIVS

ET FELICITVS CONSECRAVIT

AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II.

A little lower:

DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGO MILIAGRI NOVOCOMENSIS

TRANSTVLIT ET EREXIT.

It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have cost 37,975

crowns, the labor of 907 men, and 75 horses: this being the first of the

four Egyptian obelisks set up at Rome, and one of the forty-two brought

to the city out of Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by

the Goths, Barbarians, and earthquakes. Some coaches stood before the

steps of the ascent, whereof one, belonging to Cardinal Medici, had all

the metal work of massy silver, viz, the bow behind and other places. The

coaches at Rome, as well as covered wagons also much in use, are

generally the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the _facciata_ of

the church is an ample pavement. The church was first begun by St.

Anacletus, when rather a chapel, on a foundation, as they give out, of

Constantine the Great, who, in honor of the Apostles, carried twelve

baskets full of sand to the work. After him, Julius II. took it in hand,

to which all his successors have contributed more or less.

The front is supposed to be the largest and best-studied piece of

architecture in the world; to this we went up by four steps of marble.

The first entrance is supported by huge pilasters; the _volto_ within is

the richest possible, and overlaid with gold. Between the five large

anti-ports are columns of enormous height and compass, with as many gates

of brass, the work and sculpture of Pollaivola, the Florentine, full of

cast figures and histories in a deep relievo. Over this runs a terrace of

like amplitude and ornament, where the Pope, at solemn times, bestows his

Benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this portico are two

_campaniles_, or towers, whereof there was but one perfected, of

admirable art. On the top of all, runs a balustrade which edges it quite

round, and upon this at equal distances are Christ and the twelve

Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below showing no greater than

the life. Entering the church, admirable is the breadth of the _volto_,

or roof, which is all carved with foliage and roses overlaid with gold in

nature of a deep basso-relievo, _à l'antique_. The nave, or body, is in

form of a cross, whereof the foot-part is the longest; and, at the

_internodium_ of the transept, rises the cupola, which being all of stone

and of prodigious height is more in compass than that of the Pantheon

(which was the largest among the old Romans, and is yet entire) or any

other known. The inside, or concave, is covered with most exquisite

Mosaic, representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by Giuseppe d'Arpino, full

of stars of gold; the convex, or outside, exposed to the air, is covered

with lead, with great ribs of metal double gilt (as are also the ten

other lesser cupolas, for no fewer adorn this glorious structure), which

gives a great and admirable splendor in all parts of the city. On the

summit of this is fixed a brazen globe gilt, capable of receiving

thirty-five persons. This I entered, and engraved my name among other

travelers. Lastly, is the Cross, the access to which is between the

leaden covering and the stone convex, or arch-work; a most truly

astonishing piece of art! On the battlements of the church, also all

overlaid with lead and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, so

many are the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few houses

inhabited by men who dwell there, and have enough to do to look after the

vast reparations which continually employ them.

Having seen this, we descended into the body of the church, full of

collateral chapels and large oratories, most of them exceeding the size

of ordinary churches; but the principal are four incrusted with most

precious marbles and stones of various colors, adorned with an infinity

of statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable relics. The

altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaic, I could not pass without

particular note, as one of the best of that kind. The chapel of Gregory

XIII., where he is buried, is most splendid. Under the cupola, and in the

center of the church, stands the high altar, consecrated first by Clement

VIII., adorned by Paul V., and lately covered by Pope Urban VIII.; with

that stupendous canopy of Corinthian brass, which heretofore was brought

from the Pantheon; it consists of four wreathed columns, partly

channelled and encircled with vines, on which hang little _puti_ birds

and bees (the arms of the _Barberini_), sustaining a _baldacchino_ of the

same metal. The four columns weigh an hundred and ten thousand pounds,

all over richly gilt; this, with the pedestals, crown, and statues about

it, form a thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond

all that man's industry has produced of the kind; it is the work of

Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, painter, and poet, who, a

little before my coming to the city, gave a public opera (for so they

call shows of that kind), wherein he painted the scenes, cut the statues,

invented the engines, composed the music, writ the comedy, and built the

theater. Opposite to either of these pillars, under those niches which,

with their columns, support the weighty cupola, are placed four exquisite

statues of Parian marble, to which are four altars; that of St. Veronica,

made by Fra. Mochi, has over it the reliquary, where they showed us the

miraculous _Sudarium_ indued with the picture of our Savior's face, with

this inscription: "_Salvatoris imaginem Veronicæ Sudario exceptam ut loci

majestas decentèr custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmoreum signum

et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit_."

Right against this is that of Longinus, of a Colossean magnitude, also by

Bernini, and over him the conservatory of the iron lance inserted in a

most precious crystal, with this epigraph: "_Longini Lanceam quam

Innocentius VIII. à Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII.

statuâ appositâ, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium

transtulit_."

The third chapel has over the altar the statue of our countrywoman, St.

Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great; the work of Boggi, an

excellent sculptor; and here is preserved a great piece of the pretended

wood of the holy cross, which she is said to have first detected

miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope with

this inscription: "_Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix è Calvario in

Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. è Sissorianâ Basilicâ desumptam,

additis arâ et statuâ, hìc in Vaticano collocavit_."

The fourth hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica, the

statue of St. Andrew, the work of Fiamingo, admirable above all the

other; above is preserved the head of that Apostle, richly enchased. It

is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed in

a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief architect, who found

himself outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this:

"_St. Andreæ caput quod Pius II. ex Achaiâ in Vaticanum asportandum

curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hic ornamentis decoratum sacrisque

statuæ ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit._"

The relics showed and kept in this church are without number, as are also

the precious vessels of gold, silver, and gems, with the vests and

services to be seen in the Sacristy, which they showed us. Under the high

altar is an ample grot inlaid with _pietra-commessa_, wherein half of the

bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserved; before hang divers great

lamps of the richest plate, burning continually. About this and

contiguous to the altar, runs a balustrade, in form of a theater, of

black marble. Toward the left, as you go out of the church by the

portico, a little beneath the high altar, is an old brass statue of St.

Peter sitting, under the soles of whose feet many devout persons rub

their heads, and touch their chaplets. This was formerly cast from a

statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another place, stands a column grated

about with iron, whereon they report that our Blessed Savior was often

wont to lean as he preached in the Temple. In the work of the reliquary

under the cupola there are eight wreathed columns brought from the Temple

of Solomon. In another chapel, they showed us the chair of St. Peter, or,

as they name it, the Apostolical Throne. But among all the chapels the

one most glorious has for an altar-piece a Madonna bearing a dead Christ

on her knees, in white marble, the work of Michael Angelo. At the upper

end of the Cathedral, are several stately monuments, especially that of

Urban VIII. Round the cupola, and in many other places in the church, are

confession seats, for all languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish,

Italian, French, English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, etc., as it is

written on their friezes in golden capitals, and there are still at

confessions some of all nations. Toward the lower end of the church, and

on the side of a vast pillar sustaining a weighty roof, is the

_depositum_ and statue of the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with

basso-relievos about it of white marble, the work of Bernini. Here are

also those of Sextus IV. and Paulus III., etc. Among the exquisite pieces

in this sumptuous fabric is that of the ship with St. Peter held up from

sinking by our Savior; the emblems about it are the Mosaic of the famous

Giotto, who restored and made it perfect after it had been defaced by the

Barbarians. Nor is the pavement under the cupola to be passed over

without observation, which with the rest of the body and walls of the

whole church, are all inlaid with the richest of _pietra-commessa_, in

the most splendid colors of polished marbles, agates, serpentine,

porphyry, calcedon, etc., wholly incrusted to the very roof. Coming out

by the portico at which we entered, we were shown the Porta Santa, never

opened but at the year of jubilee. This glorious foundation hath

belonging to it thirty canons, thirty-six beneficiates, twenty-eight

clerks beneficed, with innumerable chaplains, etc., a Cardinal being

always archpriest; the present Cardinal was Francisco Barberini, who also

styled himself Protector of the English, to whom he was indeed very

courteous.

20th November, 1644. I went to visit that ancient See and Cathedral of

St. John di Laterano, and the holy places thereabout. This is a church of

extraordinary devotion, though, for outward form, not comparable to St.

Peter's, being of Gothic ordonnance. Before we went into the cathedral,

the Baptistery of St. John Baptist presented itself, being formerly part

of the Great Constantine's palace, and, as it is said, his chamber where

by St. Silvester he was made a Christian. It is of an octagonal shape,

having before the entrance eight fair pillars of rich porphyry, each of

one entire piece, their capitals of divers orders, supporting lesser

columns of white marble, and these supporting a noble cupola, the molding

whereof is excellently wrought. In the chapel which they affirm to have

been the lodging place of this Emperor, all women are prohibited from

entering, for the malice of Herodias who caused him to lose his head.

Here are deposited several sacred relics of St. James, Mary Magdalen, St.

Matthew, etc., and two goodly pictures. Another chapel, or oratory near

it, is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorned with marbles and

tables, especially those of Cavaliére Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in

fresco. We went hence into another called St. Venantius, in which is a

tribunal all of Mosaic in figures of Popes. Here is also an altar of the

Madonna, much visited, and divers Sclavonish saints, companions of Pope

John IV. The portico of the church is built of materials brought from

Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem.

The next sight which attracted our attention, was a wonderful concourse

of people at their devotions before a place called _Scala Sancta_, to

which is built a noble front. Entering the portico, we saw those large

marble stairs, twenty-eight in number, which are never ascended but on

the knees, some lip-devotion being used on every step; on which you may

perceive divers red specks of blood under a grate, which they affirm to

have been drops of our Blessed Savior, at the time he was so barbarously

misused by Herod's soldiers; for these stairs are reported to have been

translated hither from his palace in Jerusalem. At the top of them is a

chapel, whereat they enter (but we could not be permitted) by gates of

marble, being the same our Savior passed when he went out of Herod's

house. This they name the _Sanctum Sanctorum_, and over it we read this

epigraph:

_Non est in toto sanctior orbe locus._

Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ painted (as they

say) by the hand of St. Luke, to the life. Descending again, we saw

before the church the obelisk, which is indeed most worthy of admiration.

It formerly lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected here by Sextus V.,

in 1587, being 112 feet in height without the base or pedestal; at the

foot nine and a half one way, and eight the other. This pillar was first

brought from Thebes at the utmost confines of Egypt, to Alexandria, from

thence to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is said by Ammianus

Marcellinus to have been dedicated to Rameses, King of Egypt. It was

transferred to this city by Constantine the son of the Great, and is full

of hieroglyphics, serpents, men, owls, falcons, oxen, instruments, etc.,

containing (as Father Kircher the Jesuit will shortly tell us in a book

which he is ready to publish) all the recondite and abstruse learning of

that people. The vessel, galley, or float, that brought it to Rome so

many hundred leagues, must needs have been of wonderful bigness and

strange fabric. The stone is one and entire, and (having been thrown

down) was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana, for that magnificent Pope,

Sextus V., as the rest were; it is now cracked in many places, but

solidly joined. The obelisk is thus inscribed at the several faciátas:

_Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum à

patre suo motum diuq; Alexandriæ jacentem, trecentorum remigum

impositum navi mirandæ vastitatis per mare Tyberimq; magnis molibus

Romam convectum in Circo Max. ponendum S.P.Q.R.D.D._

On the second square:

_Fl. Constantinus Max: Aug: Christianæ fidei Vindex & Assertor

Obeliscum ab Ægyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, sedibus avulsum

suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam, ut Novam Romam ab se tunc

conditam eo decoraret monumento._

On the third:

_Sextus V. Pontifex Max: Obeliscum hunc specie eximiâ temporum

calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo, limoq; altè demersum,

multâ impensâ extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit,

formàq; pristinâ accuratè vestitum, Cruci invictissimæ dicavit anno

M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. IIII._

On the fourth:

_Constantinus per Crucem Victor à Silvestro hìc Baptizatus Crucis

gloriam propagavit._

Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a stately public

fountain, with a statue of St. John in the middle of it), we visited His

Holiness's palace, being a little on the left hand, the design of

Fontana, architect to Sextus V. This I take to be one of the best

palaces in Rome; but not staying we entered the church of St. John di

Laterano, which is properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, as I learned

by these verses engraven upon the architrave of the portico:

_Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali

Quòd sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiar[)u]

Hinc Salvatoris coelestia regna datoris

Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt;

Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto

Nostra quòd hæc ædes; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes._

It is called Lateran, from a noble family formerly dwelling it seems

hereabouts, on Mons Cælius. The church is Gothic, and hath a stately

tribunal; the paintings are of Pietro Pisano. It was the first church

that was consecrated with the ceremonies now introduced, and where altars

of stone supplied those of wood heretofore in use, and made like large

chests for the easier removal in times of persecution; such an altar is

still the great one here preserved, as being that on which (they hold)

St. Peter celebrated mass at Rome; for which reason none but the Pope may

now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is of all sorts of

precious marbles, and so are the walls to a great height, over which it

is painted _á fresco_ with the life and acts of Constantine the Great, by

most excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported by four columns.

The _soffito_ is all richly gilded, and full of pictures. Opposite to the

porta is an altar of exquisite architecture, with a tabernacle on it all

of precious stones, the work of Targoni; on this is a _coena_ of plate,

the invention of Curtius Vanni, of exceeding value; the tables hanging

over it are of Giuseppe d'Arpino. About this are four excellent columns

transported out of Asia by the Emperor Titus, of brass, double gilt,

about twelve feet in height; the walls between them are incrusted with

marble and set with statues in niches, the vacuum reported to be filled

with holy earth, which St. Helena sent from Jerusalem to her son,

Constantine, who set these pillars where they now stand. At one side of

this is an oratory full of rare paintings and monuments, especially those

of the great Connestábile Colonna. Out of this we came into the

_sacristia_, full of good pictures of Albert and others. At the end of

the church is a flat stone supported by four pillars which they affirm

to have been the exact height of our Blessed Savior, and say they never

fitted any mortal man that tried it, but he was either taller or shorter;

two columns of the veil of the Temple which rent at his passion; the

stone on which they threw lots for his seamless vesture; and the pillar

on which the cock crowed, after Peter's denial; and, to omit no fine

thing, the just length of the Virgin Mary's foot as it seems her

shoemaker affirmed! Here is a sumptuous cross, beset with precious

stones, containing some of the VERY wood of the holy cross itself; with

many other things of this sort: also numerous most magnificent monuments,

especially those of St. Helena, of porphyry; Cardinal Farneze; Martin I.,

of copper; the pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martin V., Laurentius Valla,

etc., are of Gaetano; the Nunciata, designed by M. Angelo; and the great

crucifix of Sermoneta. In a chapel at one end of the porch is a statue of

Henry IV. of France, in brass, standing in a dark hole, and so has done

many years; perhaps from not believing him a thorough proselyte. The two

famous Oecumenical Councils were celebrated in this Church by Pope

Simachus, Martin I., Stephen, etc.

Leaving this venerable church (for in truth it has a certain majesty in

it), we passed through a fair and large hospital of good architecture,

having some inscriptions put up by Barberini, the late Pope's nephew. We

then went by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Gregory P., begun

by M. Angelo; a St. Andrew, and the bath of St. Cecilia. In this church

are some rare paintings, especially that story on the wall of Guido Reni.

Thence to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the friars are reputed to be great

chemists. The choir, roof, and paintings in the _tribuna_ are excellent.

Descending the Mons Cælius, we came against the vestiges of the Palazzo

Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House of Nero; now nothing but a heap of

vast and confused ruins, to show what time and the vicissitude of human

things does change from the most glorious and magnificent to the most

deformed and confused. We next went into St. Sebastian's Church, which

has a handsome front: then we passed by the place where Romulus and Remus

were taken up by Faustulus, the Forum Romanum, and so by the edge of the

Mons Palatinus; where we saw the ruins of Pompey's house, and the Church

of St. Anacletus; and so into the Circus Maximus, heretofore capable of

containing a hundred and sixty thousand spectators, but now all one

entire heap of rubbish, part of it converted into a garden of pot herbs.

We concluded this evening with hearing the rare voices and music at the

Chiesa Nova.

21st November, 1644. I was carried to see a great virtuoso, Cavaliéro

Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection of all kind of antiquities, and a

choice library, over which are the effigies of most of our late men of

polite literature. He had a great collection of the antique

basso-relievos about Rome, which this curious man had caused to be

designed in several folios: many fine medals; the stone which Pliny calls

Enhydros; it had plainly in it the quantity of half a spoonful of water,

of a yellow pebble color, of the bigness of a walnut. A stone paler than

an amethyst, which yet he affirmed to be the true carbuncle, and harder

than a diamond; it was set in a ring, without foil, or anything at the

bottom, so as it was transparent, of a greenish yellow, more lustrous

than a diamond. He had very pretty things painted on crimson velvet,

designed in black, and shaded and heightened with white, set in frames;

also a number of choice designs and drawings.

Hence we walked to the Suburra and Ærarium Saturni, where yet remain some

ruins and an inscription. From thence to St. Pietro _in vinculis_, one of

the seven churches on the Esquiline, an old and much-frequented place of

great devotion for the relics there, especially the bodies of the seven

Maccabean brethren, which lie under the altar. On the wall is a St.

Sebastian, of mosaic, after the Greek manner: but what I chiefly regarded

was, that noble sepulchre of Pope Julius II., the work of M. Angelo; with

that never-sufficiently-to-be-admired statue of Moses, in white marble,

and those of Vita Contemplativa and Activa, by the same incomparable

hand. To this church belongs a monastery, in the court of whose cloisters

grow two tall and very stately palm trees. Behind these, we walked a turn

among the Baths of Titus, admiring the strange and prodigious receptacles

for water, which the vulgar call the Setti Sali, now all in heaps.

22d November, 1644. Was the solemn and greatest ceremony of all the State

Ecclesiastical, viz, the procession of the Pope (Innocent X.) to St. John

di Laterano, which, standing on the steps of Ara Celi, near the Capitol,

I saw pass in this manner:--First went a guard of Switzers to make way,

and divers of the avant guard of horse carrying lances. Next followed

those who carried the robes of the Cardinals, two and two; then the

Cardinal's mace bearers; the caudatari, on mules; the masters of their

horse; the Pope's barber, tailor, baker, gardener, and other domestic

officers, all on horseback, in rich liveries; the squires belonging to

the Guard; five men in rich liveries led five noble Neapolitan horses,

white as snow, covered to the ground with trappings richly embroidered;

which is a service paid by the King of Spain for the kingdoms of Naples

and Sicily, pretended feudatories to the Pope; three mules of exquisite

beauty and price, trapped in crimson velvet; next followed three rich

litters with mules, the litters empty; the master of the horse alone,

with his squires; five trumpeters; the _armerieri estra muros_; the

fiscal and consistorial advocates; _capellani_, _camerieri de honore_,

_cubiculari_ and chamberlains, called _secreti_.

Then followed four other _camerieri_ with four caps of the

dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals' hats carried on staves; four

trumpets; after them a number of noble Romans and gentlemen of quality,

very rich, and followed by innumerable _staffiéri_ and pages; the

secretaries of the _chancellaria_, _abbreviatori-accoliti_ in their long

robes, and on mules; _auditori di rota_; the dean of the _rôti_ and

master of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave but rich footclothes,

and in flat episcopal hats; then went more of the Roman and other

nobility and courtiers, with divers pages in most rich liveries on

horseback; fourteen drums belonging to the Capitol; the marshals with

their staves; the two syndics; the conservators of the city, in robes of

crimson damask; the knight-gonfalonier and prior of the R. R., in velvet

toques; six of his Holiness's mace bearers; then the captain, or

governor, of the Castle of St. Angelo, upon a brave prancer; the governor

of the city; on both sides of these two long ranks of Switzers, the

masters of the ceremonies; the cross bearer on horseback, with two

priests at each hand on foot; pages, footmen, and guards, in abundance.

Then came the Pope himself, carried in a litter, or rather open chair, of

crimson velvet, richly embroidered, and borne by two stately mules; as he

went he held up two fingers, blessing the multitude who were on their

knees, or looking out of their windows and houses, with loud _vivas_ and

acclamations of felicity to their new Prince. This chair was followed by

the master of his chamber, cup bearer, secretary, and physician; then

came the Cardinal-Bishops, Cardinal-Priests, Cardinal-Deacons,

Patriarchs, Archbishops, and Bishops, all in their several and distinct

habits, some in red, others in green flat hats with tassels, all on

gallant mules richly trapped with velvet, and led by their servants in

great state and multitudes; after them, the apostolical protonotary,

auditor, treasurer, and referendaries; lastly, the trumpets of the rear

guard, two pages of arms in helmets with feathers, and carrying lances;

two captains; the pontifical standard of the Church; the two _alfieri_,

or cornets, of the Pope's light horse, who all followed in armor and

carrying lances; which, with innumerable rich coaches, litters, and

people, made up the procession. What they did at St. John di Laterano, I

could not see, by reason of the prodigious crowd; so I spent most of the

day in viewing the two triumphal arches which had been purposely erected

a few days before, and till now covered; the one by the Duke of Parma, in

the Foro Romano, the other by the Jews in the Capitol, with flattering

inscriptions. They were of excellent architecture, decorated with statues

and abundance of ornaments proper for the occasion, since they were but

temporary, and made up of boards, cloth, etc., painted and framed on the

sudden, but as to outward appearance, solid and very stately. The night

ended with fireworks. What I saw was that which was built before the

Spanish Ambassador's house, in the Piazza del Trinita, and another,

before that of the French. The first appeared to be a mighty rock,

bearing the Pope's Arms, a dragon, and divers figures, which being set on

fire by one who flung a rocket at it, kindled immediately, yet preserving

the figure both of the rock and statues a very long time; insomuch as it

was deemed ten thousand reports of squibs and crackers spent themselves

in order. That before the French Ambassador's Palace was a Diana drawn

in a chariot by her dogs, with abundance of other figures as large as the

life, which played with fire in the same manner. In the meantime, the

windows of the whole city were set with tapers put into lanterns, or

sconces, of several colored oiled paper, that the wind might not annoy

them; this rendered a most glorious show. Besides these, there were at

least twenty other fireworks of vast charge and rare art for their

invention before divers Ambassadors, Princes, and Cardinals' Palaces,

especially that on the Castle of St. Angelo, being a pyramid of lights,

of great height, fastened to the ropes and cables which support the

standard pole. The streets were this night as light as day, full of

bonfires, cannon roaring, music playing, fountains running wine, in all

excess of joy and triumph.

23d November, 1644. I went to the Jesuits' College again, the front

whereof gives place to few for its architecture, most of its ornaments

being of rich marble. It has within a noble portico and court, sustained

by stately columns, as is the corridor over the portico, at the sides of

which are the schools for arts and sciences, which are here taught as at

the University. Here I heard Father Athanasius Kircher upon a part of

Euclid, which he expounded. To this joins a glorious and ample church for

the students; a second is not fully finished; and there are two noble

libraries, where I was showed that famous wit and historian, Famianus

Strada. Hence we went to the house of Hippolito Vitellesco (afterward

bibliothecary of the Vatican library), who showed us one of the best

collections of statues in Rome, to which he frequently talks as if they

were living, pronouncing now and then orations, sentences, and verses,

sometimes kissing and embracing them. He has a head of Brutus scarred in

the face by order of the Senate for killing Julius; this is much

esteemed. Also a Minerva, and others of great value. This gentleman not

long since purchased land in the kingdom of Naples, in hope, by digging

the ground, to find more statues; which it seems so far succeeded, as to

be much more worth than the purchase. We spent the evening at the Chiesa

Nova, where was excellent music; but, before that began, the courteous

fathers led me into a nobly furnished library, contiguous to their most

beautiful convent.

28th November, 1644. I went to see the garden and house of the

Aldobrandini, now Cardinal Borghese's. This palace is, for architecture,

magnificence, pomp, and state, one of the most considerable about the

city. It has four fronts, and a noble piazza before it. Within the

courts, under arches supported by marble columns, are many excellent

statues. Ascending the stairs, there is a rare figure of Diana, of white

marble. The St. Sebastian and Hermaphrodite are of stupendous art. For

paintings, our Savior's Head, by Correggio; several pieces of Raphael,

some of which are small; some of Bassano Veronese; the Leda, and two

admirable Venuses, are of Titian's pencil; so is the Psyche and Cupid;

the head of St. John, borne by Herodias; two heads of Albert Durer, very

exquisite. We were shown here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence work

in stone. In the gardens are many fine fountains, the walls covered with

citron trees, which, being rarely spread, invest the stone work entirely;

and, toward the street, at a back gate, the port is so handsomely clothed

with ivy as much pleased me. About this palace are many noble antique

bassi-relievi: two especially are placed on the ground, representing

armor, and other military furniture of the Romans; beside these, stand

about the garden numerous rare statues, altars, and urns. Above all for

antiquity and curiosity (as being the only rarity of that nature now

known to remain) is that piece of old Roman painting representing the

Roman _Sponsalia_, or celebration of their marriage, judged to be 1,400

years old, yet are the colors very lively, and the design very entire,

though found deep in the ground. For this morsel of painting's sake only,

it is said the Borghesi purchased the house, because this being on a wall

in a kind of banqueting house in the garden, could not be removed, but

passes with the inheritance.

29th November, 1644. I a second time visited the Medicean Palace, being

near my lodging, the more exactly to have a view of the noble collections

that adorn it, especially the bassi-relievi and antique friezes inserted

about the stone work of the house. The Saturn, of metal, standing in the

portico, is a rare piece; so is the Jupiter and Apollo, in the hall. We

were now led into those rooms above we could not see before, full of

incomparable statues and antiquities; above all, and haply preferable to

any in the world, are the Two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mixture

with each other's arms and legs is stupendous. In the great chamber is

the Gladiator, whetting a knife; but the Venus is without parallel, being

the masterpiece of one whose name you see graven under it in old Greek

characters; nothing in sculpture ever approached this miracle of art. To

this add Marcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing on a pipe; some

relievi incrusted on the palace-walls; and an antique _vas_ of marble,

near six feet high. Among the pictures may be mentioned the Magdalen and

St. Peter, weeping. I pass over the cabinets and tables of _pietra

commessa_, being the proper invention of the Florentines. In one of the

chambers is a whimsical chair, which folded into so many varieties, as to

turn into a bed, a bolster, a table, or a couch. I had another walk in

the garden, where are two huge vases, or baths of stone.

I went further up the hill to the Pope's Palaces at Monte Cavallo, where

I now saw the garden more exactly, and found it to be one of the most

magnificent and pleasant in Rome. I am told the gardener is annually

allowed 2,000 _scudi_ for the keeping of it. Here I observed hedges of

myrtle above a man's height; others of laurel, oranges, nay, of ivy and

juniper; the close walks, and rustic grotto; a crypt, of which the laver,

or basin, is of one vast, entire, antique porphyry, and below this flows

a plentiful cascade; the steps of the grotto and the roofs being of rich

Mosaic. Here are hydraulic organs, a fish pond, and an ample bath. From

hence, we went to taste some rare Greco; and so home.

Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept within, for the most

part, till the 6th of December; and, during this time, I entertained one

Signor Alessandro, who gave me some lessons on the theorbo.

The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry-boat,

to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, fairly built, but

famous only for the painting _á fresco_ on the _volto_ of the portico

toward the garden; the story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the

hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbino. Here you always see painters

designing and copying after it, being esteemed one of the rarest pieces

of that art in the world; and with great reason. I must not omit that

incomparable table of Galatea (as I remember), so carefully preserved in

the cupboard at one of the ends of this walk, to protect it from the air,

being a most lively painting. There are likewise excellent things of

Baldassare, and others.

Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of Bracciano, fairly built,

with a stately court and fountain.

Next, we walked to St. Mary's Church, where was the _Taberna Meritoria_,

where the old Roman soldiers received their triumphal garland, which they

ever after wore. The high altar is very fair, adorned with columns of

porphyry: here is also some mosaic work about the choir, and the

Assumption is an esteemed piece. It is said that this church was the

first that was dedicated to the Virgin at Rome. In the opposite piazza is

a very sumptuous fountain.

12th December, 1644. I went again to St. Peter's to see the chapels,

churches, and grots under the whole church (like our St. Faith's under

Paul's), in which lie interred a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes;

among them our countryman, Adrian IV., (Nicholas Brekespere) in a chest

of porphyry; Sir J. Chrysostom; Petronella; the heads of St. James minor,

St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our Thomas à Becket; a shoulder of St.

Christopher; an arm of Joseph of Arimathea; Longinus; besides 134 more

bishops, soldiers, princes, scholars, cardinals, kings, emperors, their

wives; too long to particularize.

Hence we walked into the cemetery, called Campo Santo, the earth

consisting of several ship-loads of mold, transported from Jerusalem,

which consumes a carcass in twenty-four hours. To this joins that rare

hospital, where once was Nero's circus; the next to this is the

Inquisition-house and prison, the inside whereof, I thank God, I was not

curious to see. To this joins His Holiness's Horseguards.

On Christmas-eve, I went not to bed, being desirous of seeing the many

extraordinary ceremonies performed then in their churches, at midnight

masses and sermons. I walked from church to church the whole night in

admiration at the multitude of scenes and pageantry which the friars had

with much industry and craft set out, to catch the devout women and

superstitious sort of people, who never parted without dropping some

money into a vessel set on purpose; but especially observable was the

puppetry in the Church of the Minerva, representing the Nativity. I

thence went and heard a sermon at the Apollinare; by which time it was

morning. On Christmas-day his Holiness sang mass, the artillery of St.

Angelo went off, and all this day was exposed the cradle of our Lord.

29th December, 1644. We were invited by the English Jesuits to dinner,

being their great feast of Thomas [à Becket] of Canterbury. We dined in

their common refectory, and afterward saw an Italian comedy acted by

their alumni before the Cardinals.

January, 1645. We saw pass the new officers of the people of Rome;

especially, for their noble habits were most conspicuous, the three

Consuls, now called Conservators, who take their places in the Capitol,

having been sworn the day before between the hands of the Pope. We ended

the day with the rare music at the Chiesa Nova.

6th January, 1645. Was the ceremony of our Savior's baptism in the Church

of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Celi was a great procession, del Bambino,

as they call it, where were all the magistrates, and a wonderful

concourse of people.

7th January, 1645. A sermon was preached to the Jews, at Ponte Sisto, who

are constrained to sit till the hour is done; but it is with so much

malice in their countenances, spitting, humming, coughing, and motion,

that it is almost impossible they should hear a word from the preacher. A

conversion is very rare.

14th January, 1645. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exposed at

St. John Laterano.

15th January, 1645. The zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have

portions given them by the Pope, being poor, and to marry them, walked in

procession to St. Peter's, where the Veronica was shown.

I went to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell as in a suburb by themselves;

being invited by a Jew of my acquaintance to see a circumcision. I passed

by the Piazza Judea, where their seraglio begins; for, being environed

with walls, they are locked up every night. In this place remains yet

part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told me had been a palace of

theirs for the ambassador of their nation, when their country was subject

to the Romans. Being led through the Synagogue into a private house, I

found a world of people in a chamber: by and by came an old man, who

prepared and laid in order divers instruments brought by a little child

of about seven years old in a box. These the man laid in a silver basin;

the knife was much like a short razor to shut into the half. Then they

burnt some incense in a censer, which perfumed the room all the while the

ceremony was performing. In the basin was a little cap made of white

paper like a capuchin's hood, not bigger than the finger: also a paper of

a red astringent powder, I suppose of bole; a small instrument of silver,

cleft in the middle at one end, to take up the prepuce withal; a fine

linen cloth wrapped up. These being all in order, the women brought the

infant swaddled, out of another chamber, and delivered it to the Rabbi,

who carried and presented it before an altar, or cupboard, dressed up, on

which lay the five Books of Moses, and the Commandments, a little

unrolled. Before this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words,

he waved the child to and fro awhile; then he delivered it to another

Rabbi, who sat all this time upon a table. While the ceremony was

performing, all the company fell singing a Hebrew hymn, in a barbarous

tone, waving themselves to and fro; a ceremony they observe in all their

devotions.--The Jews in Rome all wear yellow hats, live only upon brokage

and usury, very poor and despicable, beyond what they are in other

territories of Princes where they are permitted.

18th January, 1645. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican, where

he for the most part keeps his Court. It was first built by Pope

Symmachus, and since augmented to a vast pile of building by his

successors. That part of it added by Sextus V. is most magnificent. This

leads us into divers terraces arched _sub dio_, painted by Raphael with

the histories of the Bible, so esteemed, that artists come from all parts

of Europe to make their studies from these designs. The foliage and

grotesque about some of the compartments are admirable. In another room

are represented at large, maps and plots of most countries in the world,

in vast tables, with brief descriptions. The stairs which ascend out of

St. Peter's portico into the first hall, are rarely contrived for ease;

these lead into the hall of Gregory XIII., the walls whereof, half way to

the roof, are incrusted with most precious marbles of various colors and

works. So is also the pavement inlaid work; but what exceeds description

is, the _volta_, or roof itself, which is so exquisitely painted, that it

is almost impossible for the skillfullest eyes to discern whether it be

the work of the pencil upon a flat, or of a tool cut deep in stone. The

_Rota dentata_, in this admirable perspective, on the left hand as one

goes out, the _Setella_, etc., are things of art incomparable. Certainly

this is one of the most superb and royal apartments in the world, much

too beautiful for a guard of gigantic Switzers, who do nothing but drink

and play at cards in it. Going up these stairs is a painting of St.

Peter, walking on the sea toward our Savior.

Out of this I went into another hall, just before the chapel, called the

Sàla del Conclave, full of admirable paintings; among others is the

Assassination of Coligni, the great [Protestant] French Admiral, murdered

by the Duke of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of Henry

IV, with Queen Margaret; under it is written, "_Coligni et sociorum

cædes_:" on the other side, "_Rex Coligi necem probat_."

There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed:

"_Alexander Papa III., Frederici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum

fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs; cognitum et à senatu perhonorificè

susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali prælio victo captoq;

Fredericus, pace facta, supplex adorat; fidem et obedientiam

pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Reip. beneficio

restituta MCLXXVIII._"[24]

[Footnote 24: Pope Alexander III., flying from the wrath and

violence of the Emperor Frederick I., took shelter at Venice,

where he was acknowledged, and most honorably received by the

Senate. The Emperor's son, Otho, being conquered and taken in

a naval battle, the Emperor, having made peace, became a

suppliant to the Pope, promising fealty and obedience. Thus

his dignity was restored to the Pontiff, by the aid of the

Republic of Venice, MCLXXVIII.]

This inscription I the rather took notice of, because Urban VIII. had

caused it to be blotted out during the difference between him and that

State; but it was now restored and refreshed by his successor, to the

great honor of the Venetians. The Battle of Lepanto is another fair

piece here.

Now we came into the Pope's chapel, so much celebrated for the Last

Judgment painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti. It is a painting in fresco,

upon a dead wall at the upper end of the chapel, just over the high

altar, of a vast design and miraculous fancy, considering the multitude

of naked figures and variety of posture. The roof also is full of rare

work. Hence, we went into the _sacristia_ where were showed all the most

precious vestments, copes, and furniture of the chapel. One priestly

cope, with the whole suite, had been sent from one of our English Henrys,

and is shown for a great rarity. There were divers of the Pope's

pantoufles that are kissed on his foot, having rich jewels embroidered on

the instep, covered with crimson velvet; also his tiara, or triple crown,

divers miters, crosiers, etc., all bestudded with precious stones, gold,

and pearl, to a very great value; a very large cross, carved (as they

affirm) out of the holy wood itself; numerous utensils of crystal, gold,

agate, amber, and other costly materials for the altar.

We then went into those chambers painted with the Histories of the

burning of Rome, quenched by the procession of a Crucifix; the victory of

Constantine over Maxentius; St. Peter's delivery out of Prison; all by

Julio Romano, and are therefore called the Painters' Academy, because you

always find some young men or other designing from them: a civility which

is not refused in Italy, where any rare pieces of the old and best

masters are extant, and which is the occasion of breeding up many

excellent men in that profession.

The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin Alberti, with an

ample landscape of Paul Bril's.

We were then conducted into a new gallery, whose sides were painted with

views of the most famous places, towns, and territories in Italy, rarely

done, and upon the roof the chief Acts of the Roman Church since St.

Peter's pretended See there. It is doubtless one of the most magnificent

galleries in Europe.--Out of this we came into the Consistory, a noble

room, the _volta_ painted in grotesque, as I remember. At the upper end,

is an elevated throne and a baldachin, or canopy of state, for his

Holiness, over it.

From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I think, than the

French Kings at the Louvre), but only of bare walls, we were brought into

the Vatican Library. This passage was now full of poor people, to each of

whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a _mezzo grosse_. I

believe they were in number near 1,500 or 2,000 persons.

This library is the most nobly built, furnished, and beautified of any in

the world; ample, stately, light, and cheerful, looking into a most

pleasant garden. The walls and roof are painted, not with antiques and

grotesques, like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, diagrams,

and the like learned inventions, found out by the wit and industry of

famous men, of which there are now whole volumes extant. There were

likewise the effigies of the most illustrious men of letters and fathers

of the church, with divers noble statues, in white marble, at the

entrance, viz, Hippolytus and Aristides. The General Councils are

painted on the side walls. As to the ranging of the books, they are all

shut up in presses of wainscot, and not exposed on shelves to the open

air, nor are the most precious mixed among the more ordinary, which are

showed to the curious only; such are those two Virgils written on

parchment, of more than a thousand years old; the like, a Terence; the

"Acts of the Apostles" in golden capital letters; Petrarch's "Epigrams,"

written with his own hand; also a Hebrew parchment, made up in the

ancient manner, from whence they were first called "_Volumina_", with the

Cornua; but what we English do much inquire after, the book which our

Henry VIII. writ against Luther.[25]

[Footnote 25: This very book, by one of those curious chances that

occasionally happen, found its way into England some forty years

ago, and was seen by the Editor of the early edition of this

"Diary." It may be worth remarking that wherever, in the course of

it, the title of "Defender of the Faith" was subjoined to the name

of Henry, the Pope had drawn his pen through the title. The name of

the King occurred in his own handwriting both at the beginning and

end; and on the binding were the Royal Arms. Its possessor had

purchased it in Italy for a few shillings from an old bookstall.]

The largest room is 100 paces long; at the end is the gallery of printed

books; then the gallery of the Duke of Urban's library, in which are MSS.

of remarkable miniature, and divers Chinese, Mexican, Samaritan,

Abyssinian, and other oriental books.

In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all the books taken

from Heidelberg, of which the learned Gruter, and other great scholars,

had been keepers. These walls and _volte_ are painted with

representations of the machines invented by Domenico Fontana for erection

of the obelisks; and the true design of Mahomet's sepulchre at Mecca.

Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during a vacancy, the

Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed upon a new election; the whole

manner whereof was described to us.

Hence we went into the Pope's Armory, under the library. Over the door is

this inscription:

"URBANUS VIII. LITTERIS ARMA, ARMA LITTERIS."

I hardly believe any prince in Europe is able to show a more completely

furnished library of Mars, for the quality and quantity, which is 40,000

complete for horse and foot, and neatly kept. Out of this we passed again

by the long gallery, and at the lower end of it down a very large pair of

stairs, round, without any steps as usually, but descending with an

evenness so ample and easy, that a horse-litter, or coach, may with ease

be drawn up; the sides of the vacuity are set with columns: those at

Amboise, on the Loire, in France, are something of this invention, but

nothing so spruce. By these, we descended into the Vatican gardens,

called Belvedere, where entering first into a kind of court, we were

showed those incomparable statues (so famed by Pliny and others) of

Laocoon with his three sons embraced by a huge serpent, all of one entire

Parian stone, very white and perfect, somewhat bigger than the life, the

work of those three celebrated sculptors, Agesandrus, Polydorus, and

Artemidorus, Rhodians; it was found among the ruins of Titus's baths, and

placed here. Pliny says this statue is to be esteemed before all pictures

and statues in the world; and I am of his opinion, for I never beheld

anything of art approach it. Here are also those two famous images of

Nilus with the children playing about him, and that of Tiber; Romulus and

Remus with the Wolf; the dying Cleopatra; the Venus and Cupid, rare

pieces; the Mercury; Cybel; Hercules; Apollo; Antinous: most of which

are, for defense against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot

doors. We were likewise showed the relics of the Hadrian Moles, viz, the

Pine, a vast piece of metal which stood on the summit of that mausoleum;

also a peacock of copper, supposed to have been part of Scipio's

monument.

In the garden without this (which contains a vast circuit of ground) are

many stately fountains, especially two casting water into antique lavers,

brought from Titus's baths; some fair grots and water-works, that noble

cascade where the ship dances, with divers other pleasant inventions,

walks, terraces, meanders, fruit trees, and a most goodly prospect over

the greatest part of the city. One fountain under the gate I must not

omit, consisting of three jettos of water gushing out of the mouths or

proboscides of bees (the arms of the late Pope), because of the

inscription:

"_Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit?

Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam._"

23d January, 1645. We went without the walls of the city to visit St.

Paul's, to which place it is said the Apostle bore his own head after

Nero had caused it to be cut off. The church was founded by the great

Constantine; the main roof is supported by 100 vast columns of marble,

and the Mosaic work of the great arch is wrought with a very ancient

story A^o 440; as is likewise that of the _facciata_. The gates are

brass, made at Constantinopole in 1070, as you may read by those Greek

verses engraven on them. The church is near 500 feet long and 258 in

breadth, and has five great aisles joined to it, on the basis of one of

whose columns is this odd title: "_Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Præf. Urbis

V. S. I. reparavit_." Here they showed us that miraculous Crucifix which

they say spake to St. Bridget: and, just before the Ciborio, stand two

excellent statues. Here are buried part of the bodies of St. Paul and St.

Peter. The pavement is richly interwoven with precious Oriental marbles

about the high altar, where are also four excellent paintings, whereof

one, representing the stoning of St. Stephen, is by the hand of a

Bolognian lady, named Lavinia. The tabernacle on this altar is of

excellent architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento

are of Lanfranco. Divers other relics there be also in this venerable

church, as a part of St. Anna; the head of the Woman of Samaria; the

chain which bound St. Paul, and the _eculeus_ used in tormenting the

primitive Christians. The church stands in the Via Ositensis, about a

mile from the walls of the city, separated from many buildings near it

except the Trie Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we walked, going

over the mountain or little rising, upon which story says a hundred

seventy and four thousand Christians had been martyred by Maximianus,

Dioclesian, and other bloody tyrants. On this stand St. Vincent's and St.

Anastasius; likewise the Church of St. Maria Scala del Cielo, in whose

Tribuna is a very fair Mosaic work. The Church of the Trie Fontana (as

they are called) is perfectly well built, though but small (whereas that

of St. Paul is but Gothic), having a noble cupola in the middle; in this

they show the pillar to which St. Paul was bound, when his head was cut

off, and from whence it made three prodigious leaps, where there

immediately broke out the three remaining fountains, which give

denomination to this church. The waters are reported to be medicinal:

over each is erected an altar and a chained ladle, for better tasting of

the waters. That most excellent picture of St. Peter's Crucifixion is of

Guido.

25th January, 1645. I went again to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some

certain statues and antiquities which, by reason of the Major-Domo not

being within, I could not formerly obtain. In the hall stands that

triumphant Colosse of one of the family, upon three figures, a modern,

but rare piece. About it stood some Gladiators; and, at the entrance into

one of the first chambers, are two cumbent figures of AGE and YOUTH,

brought hither from St. Peter's to make room for the Longinus under the

cupola. Here was the statue of a ram running at a man on horseback, a

most incomparable expression of Fury, cut in stone; and a table of

_pietra-commessa_, very curious. The next chamber was all painted _a

fresco_, by a rare hand, as was the carving in wood of the ceiling,

which, as I remember, was in cedar, as the Italian mode is, and not poor

plaster, as ours are; some of them most richly gilt. In a third room,

stood the famous Venus, and the child Hercules strangling a serpent, of

Corinthian brass, antique, on a very curious basso-relievo; the

sacrifice to Priapus; the Egyptian Isis, in the hard, black ophite stone,

taken out of the Pantheon, greatly celebrated by the antiquaries:

likewise two tables of brass, containing divers old Roman laws. At

another side of this chamber, was the statue of a wounded Amazon falling

from her horse, worthy the name of the excellent sculptor, whoever the

artist was. Near this was a bass-relievo of a Bacchanalia, with a most

curious Silenus. The fourth room was totally environed with statues;

especially observable was that so renowned piece of a Venus looking

backward over her shoulder, and divers other naked figures, by the old

Greek masters. Over the doors are two Venuses, one of them looking on her

face in a glass, by M. Angelo; the other is painted by Caracci. I never

saw finer faces, especially that under the mask, whose beauty and art are

not to be described by words. The next chamber is also full of statues;

most of them the heads of Philosophers, very antique. One of the Cæsars

and another of Hannibal cost 1,200 crowns. Now I had a second view of

that never-to-be-sufficiently-admired gallery, painted in deep relievo,

the work of ten years' study, for a trifling reward. In the wardrobe

above they showed us fine wrought plate, porcelain, mazers of beaten and

solid gold, set with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds; a treasure,

especially the workmanship considered, of inestimable value. This is all

the Duke of Parma's. Nothing seemed to be more curious and rare in its

kind than the complete service of the purest crystal, for the altar of

the chapel, the very bell, cover of a book, sprinkler, etc., were all of

the rock, incomparably sculptured, with the holy story in deep Levati;

thus was also wrought the crucifix, chalice, vases, flowerpots, the

largest and purest crystal that my eyes ever beheld. Truly I looked on

this as one of the greatest curiosities I had seen in Rome. In another

part were presses furnished with antique arms, German clocks, perpetual

motions, watches, and curiosities of Indian works. A very ancient picture

of Pope Eugenius; a St. Bernard; and a head of marble found long since,

supposed to be a true portrait of our Blessed Savior's face.

Hence, we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and countryman of ours,

who had some intendency in an hospital built on the Via Triumphalis,

called Christ's Hospital, which he showed us. The Infirmatory, where the

sick lay, was paved with various colored marbles, and the walls hung with

noble pieces; the beds are very fair; in the middle is a stately cupola,

under which is an altar decked with divers marble statues, all in sight

of the sick, who may both see and hear mass, as they lie in their beds.

The organs are very fine, and frequently played on to recreate the people

in pain. To this joins an apartment destined for the orphans; and there

is a school: the children wear blue, like ours in London, at an hospital

of the same appellation. Here are forty nurses, who give suck to such

children as are accidentally found exposed and abandoned. In another

quarter, are children of a bigger growth, 450 in number, who are taught

letters. In another, 500 girls, under the tuition of divers religious

matrons, in a monastery, as it were, by itself. I was assured there were

at least 2,000 more maintained in other places. I think one apartment had

in it near 1,000 beds; these are in a very long room, having an inner

passage for those who attend, with as much care, sweetness, and

conveniency as can be imagined, the Italians being generally very neat.

Under the portico, the sick may walk out and take the air. Opposite to

this, are other chambers for such as are sick of maladies of a more rare

and difficult cure, and they have rooms apart. At the end of the long

corridor is an apothecary's shop, fair and very well stored; near which

are chambers for persons of better quality, who are yet necessitous.

Whatever the poor bring is, at their coming in, delivered to a treasurer,

who makes an inventory, and is accountable to them, or their

representatives if they die.

To this building joins the house of the commendator, who, with his

officers attending the sick, make up ninety persons; besides a convent

and an ample church for the friars and priests who daily attend. The

church is extremely neat, and the _sacristia_ is very rich. Indeed it is

altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations I ever saw. Nor

is the benefit small which divers young physicians and chirurgeons reap

by the experience they learn here among the sick, to whom those students

have free access. Hence, we ascended a very steep hill, near the Port St.

Pancratio, to that stately fountain called Acqua Paula, being the

aqueduct which Augustus had brought to Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V.;

a rare piece of architecture, and which serves the city after a journey

of thirty-five miles, here pouring itself into divers ample lavers, out

of the mouths of swans and dragons, the arms of this Pope. Situate on a

very high mount, it makes a most glorious show to the city, especially

when the sun darts on the water as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it

are:

"_Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquæductus ab Augusto Cæsare

extructos, ævi longinquâ vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem formam

restituit anno salutis M.D.CIX. Pont. V._"

And toward the fields:

"_Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi

temporis injuriâ penè diruto, sublimiorem._"

* * * * *

[One or more leaves are here wanting in Evelyn's MS., descriptive of

other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the city.]

Thence to Velletri, a town heretofore of the Volsci, where is a public

and fair statue of P. Urban VIII., in brass, and a stately fountain in

the street. Here we lay and drank excellent wine.

28th January, 1645. We dined at Sermonetta, descending all this morning

down a stony mountain, unpleasant, yet full of olive trees; and, anon,

pass a tower built on a rock, kept by a small guard against the banditti

who infest those parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord

Banbury and his company found to their cost a little before. To this

guard we gave some money, and so were suffered to pass, which was still

on the Appian to the _Tres Tabernæ_ (whither the brethren came from Rome

to meet St. Paul, Acts, c. 28); the ruins whereof are yet very fair,

resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as may be judged

by the vast stones and fairness of the arched work. The country

environing this passage is hilly, but rich; on the right hand stretches

an ample plain, being the _Pomptini Campi_. We reposed this night at

Piperno, in the posthouse without the town; and here I was extremely

troubled with a sore hand, which now began to fester, from a mischance at

Rome, upon my base, unlucky, stiff-necked, trotting, carrion mule; which

are the most wretched beasts in the world. In this town was the poet

Virgil's Camilla born.

The day following, we were fain to hire a strong convoy of about thirty

firelocks, to guard us through the cork woods (much infested with the

banditti) as far as Fossa Nuova, where was the Forum Appii, and now

stands a church with a great monastery, the place where Thomas Aquinas

both studied and lies buried. Here we all alighted, and were most

courteously received by the Monks, who showed us many relics of their

learned Saint and at the high altar the print forsooth of the mule's hoof

which he caused to kneel before the Host. The church is old, built after

the Gothic manner; but the place is very agreeably melancholy. After

this, pursuing the same noble [Appian] way (which we had before left a

little), we found it to stretch from Capua to Rome itself, and afterward

as far as Brundusium. It was built by that famous Consul, twenty-five

feet broad, every twelve feet something ascending for the ease and firmer

footing of horse and man; both the sides are also a little raised for

those who travel on foot. The whole is paved with a kind of beach-stone,

and, as I said, ever and anon adorned with some old ruin, sepulchre, or

broken statue. In one of these monuments Pancirollus tells us that, in

the time of Paul III., there was found the body of a young lady, swimming

in a kind of bath of precious oil, or liquor, fresh and entire as if she

had been living, neither her face discolored, nor her hair disordered; at

her feet burnt a lamp, which suddenly expired at the opening of the

vault; having flamed, as was computed, now 1,500 years, by the conjecture

that she was Tulliola, the daughter of Cicero, whose body was thus found,

and as the inscription testified. We dined this day at Terracina,

heretofore the famous Anxur, which stands upon a very eminent promontory,

the Circean by name. While meat was preparing, I went up into the town,

and viewed the fair remainders of Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a

church, adorned with most stately columns; its architecture has been

excellent, as may be deduced from the goodly cornices, moldings, and huge

white marbles of which it is built. Before the portico stands a pillar

thus inscribed:

"_Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta

Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco;_"

for, it seems, Theodoric drained their marches.

On another more ancient:

"_Imp. Cæsar Divi Nervæ Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicus

Dacicus. Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xviii. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p. p.

xviii. Silices suâ pecuniâ stravit._"

Meaning doubtless, some part of the Via Appia. Then:

"_Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Præfect.

Classis.--Ti. Julius. T. Fab. optatus, II. vir._"

[Sidenote: FONDI]

Here is likewise a Columna Milliaria, with something engraven on it, but

I could not stay to consider it. Coming down again, I went toward the

sea-side to contemplate that stupendous strange rock and promontory,

cleft by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within this is the

Circean Cave, which I went into a good way; it makes a dreadful noise, by

reason of the roaring and impetuous waves continually assaulting the

beach, and that in an unusual manner. At the top, at an excessive height,

stands an old and very great castle. We arrived this night at Fondi, a

most dangerous passage for robbing; and so we passed by Galba's villa,

and anon entered the kingdom of Naples, where, at the gate, this epigraph

saluted us: "_Hospes, hìc sunt fines Regni Neopolitani; si amicus

advenis, pacatè omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges_."

The Via Appia is here a noble prospect; having before considered how it

was carried through vast mountains of rocks for many miles, by most

stupendous labor: here it is infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres

and antiquities, full of sweet shrubs in the environing hedges. At Fondi,

we had oranges and citrons for nothing, the trees growing in every

corner, charged with fruit.

29th January, 1645. We descried Mount Cæcubus, famous for the generous

wine it heretofore produced, and so rode onward the Appian Way, beset

with myrtles, lentiscuses, bays, pomegranates, and whole groves of orange

trees, and most delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana [Formiæ],

where they showed us Cicero's tomb, standing in an olive grove, now a

rude heap of stones without form or beauty; for here that incomparable

orator was murdered. I shall never forget how exceedingly I was

delighted with the sweetness of this passage, the sepulchre mixed among

all sorts of verdure; besides being now come within sight of the noble

city, Cajeta [Gaieta], which gives a surprising prospect along the

Tyrrhene Sea, in manner of a theater: and here we beheld that strangely

cleft rock, a frightful spectacle, which they say happened upon the

passion of our Blessed Savior; but the haste of our procaccio did not

suffer us to dwell so long on these objects and the many antiquities of

this town as we desired.

At Formi, we saw Cicero's grot; dining at Mola, and passing Sinuessa,

Garigliano (once the city Mintern), and beheld the ruins of that vast

amphitheater and aqueduct yet standing; the river Liris, which bounded

the old Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massacus, celebrated for its wine, now

named Garo; and this night we lodged at a little village called St.

Agatha, in the Falernian Fields, near to Aurunca and Sessa.

The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we come by the Torre

di Francolisi, where Hannibal, in danger from Fabius Maximus, escaped by

debauching his enemies; and so at last we entered the most pleasant

plains of Campania, now called Terra di Lavoro; in very truth, I think,

the most fertile spot that ever the sun shone upon. Here we saw the

slender ruins of the once mighty Capua, contending at once both with Rome

and Carthage, for splendor and empire, now nothing but a heap of rubbish,

except showing some vestige of its former magnificence in pieces of

temples, arches, theatres, columns, ports, vaults, colosses, etc.,

confounded together by the barbarous Goths and Longobards; there is,

however, a new city, nearer to the road by two miles, fairly raised out

of these heaps. The passage from this town to Naples (which is about ten

or twelve English post miles) is as straight as a line, of great breadth,

fuller of travelers than I remember any of our greatest and most

frequented roads near London; but, what is extremely pleasing, is the

great fertility of the fields, planted with fruit trees, whose boles are

serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant, that it is

commonly reported one vine will load five mules with its grapes. What

adds much to the pleasure of the sight is, that the vines, climbing to

the summit of the trees, reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree to

another, planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful picture

than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes for sugar, olives,

pomegranates, mulberries, citrons, oranges, figs, and other sorts of rare

fruits. About the middle of the way is the town Aversa, whither came

three or four coaches to meet our lady travelers, of whom we now took

leave, having been very merry by the way with them and the capitáno,

their gallant.

[Sidenote: NAPLES]

31st January, 1645. About noon we entered the city of Naples, alighting

at the Three Kings, where we found the most plentiful fare all the time

we were in Naples. Provisions are wonderfully cheap; we seldom sat down

to fewer than eighteen or twenty dishes of exquisite meat and fruits.

The morrow after our arrival, in the afternoon, we hired a coach to carry

us about the town. First, we went to the castle of St. Elmo, built on a

very high rock, whence we had an entire prospect of the whole city, which

lies in shape of a theatre upon the sea-brink, with all the circumjacent

islands, as far as Capreæ, famous for the debauched recesses of Tiberius.

This fort is the bridle of the whole city, and was well stored and

garrisoned with native Spaniards. The strangeness of the precipice and

rareness of the prospect of so many magnificent and stately palaces,

churches, and monasteries, with the Arsenal, the Mole, and Mount Vesuvius

in the distance, all in full command of the eye, make it one of the

richest landscapes in the world.

Hence, we descended to another strong castle, called Il Castello Nuovo,

which protects the shore; but they would by no entreaty permit us to go

in; the outward defense seems to consist but in four towers, very high,

and an exceeding deep graff, with thick walls. Opposite to this is the

tower of St. Vincent, which is also very strong.

Then we went to the very noble palace of the Viceroy, partly old, and

part of a newer work; but we did not stay long here. Toward the evening,

we took the air upon the Mole, a street on the rampart, or bank, raised

in the sea for security of their galleys in port, built as that of Genoa.

Here I observed a rich fountain in the middle of the piazza, and adorned

with divers rare statues of copper, representing the Sirens, or Deities

of the Parthenope, spouting large streams of water into an ample shell,

all of cast metal, and of great cost. This stands at the entrance of the

Mole, where we met many of the nobility both on horseback and in their

coaches to take the fresco from the sea, as the manner is, it being in

the most advantageous quarter for good air, delight and prospect. Here we

saw divers goodly horses who handsomely become their riders, the

Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces in length, and paved

with a square hewn stone. From the Mole, we ascend to a church of great

antiquity, formerly sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greek letters

carved on the architrave and the busts of their two statues testify. It

is now converted into a stately oratory by the Theatines.

The Cathedral is a most magnificent pile, and except St. Peter's in Rome,

Naples exceeds all cities for stately churches and monasteries. We were

told that this day the blood of St. Januarius and his head should be

exposed, and so we found it, but obtained not to see the miracle of the

boiling of this blood. The next we went to see was St. Peter's, richly

adorned, the chapel especially, where that Apostle said mass, as is

testified on the wall.

After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they showed us the crucifix

that is reported to have said these words to St. Thomas, "_Benè de me

scripsisti, Thoma_." Hence, to the Padri Olivetani, famous for the

monument of the learned Alexander-ab-Alexandro.

We proceeded, the next day, to visit the church of Santa Maria Maggiore,

where we spent much time in surveying the chapel of Joh. Jov. Pontanus,

and in it the several and excellent sentences and epitaphs on himself,

wife, children, and friends, full of rare wit, and worthy of recording,

as we find them in several writers. In the same chapel is shown an arm of

Titus Livius, with this epigraph. "_Titi Livij brachium quod Anton.

Panormita a Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post annos

hôc in loco ponendum curavit._"

Climbing a steep hill, we came to the monastery and Church of the

Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly prospect toward the sea and

city, the one full of galleys and ships, the other of stately palaces,

churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows,

Mount Vesuvius smoking, the promontory of Minerva and Misenum, Capreæ,

Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtless one of the

most divertissant and considerable vistas in the world. The church is

most elegantly built; the very pavements of the common cloister being all

laid with variously polished marbles, richly figured. They showed us a

massy cross of silver, much celebrated for the workmanship and carving,

and said to have been fourteen years in perfecting. The choir also is of

rare art; but above all to be admired, is the yet unfinished church of

the Jesuits, certainly, if accomplished, not to be equalled in Europe.

Hence, we passed by the Palazzo Caraffii, full of ancient and very noble

statues: also the palace of the Orsini. The next day, we did little but

visit some friends, English merchants, resident for their negotiation;

only this morning at the Viceroy's Cavalerizza I saw the noblest horses

that I had ever beheld, one of his sons riding the menage with that

address and dexterity as I had never seen anything approach it.

4th February, 1645. We were invited to the collection of exotic rarities

in the Museum of Ferdinando Imperati, a Neapolitan nobleman, and one of

the most observable palaces in the city, the repository of incomparable

rarities. Among the natural herbals most remarkable was the Byssus marina

and Pinna marina; the male and female chameleon; an Onocrotatus; an

extraordinary great crocodile; some of the Orcades Anates, held here for

a great rarity; likewise a salamander; the male and female Manucordiata,

the male having a hollow in the back, in which it is reported the female

both lays and hatches her eggs; the mandragoras, of both sexes; Papyrus,

made of several reeds, and some of silk; tables of the rinds of trees,

written with Japonic characters; another of the branches of palm; many

Indian fruits; a crystal that had a quantity of uncongealed water within

its cavity; a petrified fisher's net; divers sorts of tarantulas, being a

monstrous spider, with lark-like claws, and somewhat bigger.

5th February, 1645. This day we beheld the Vice-king's procession, which

was very splendid for the relics, banners, and music that accompanied

the Blessed Sacrament. The ceremony took up most of the morning.

6th February, 1645. We went by coach to take the air, and see the

diversions, or rather madness of the Carnival; the courtesans (who swarm

in this city to the number, as we are told, of 30,000, registered and

paying a tax to the State) flinging eggs of sweet water into our coach,

as we passed by the houses and windows. Indeed, the town is so pestered

with these cattle, that there needs no small mortification to preserve

from their enchantment, while they display all their natural and

artificial beauty, play, sing, feign compliment, and by a thousand

studied devices seek to inveigle foolish young men.

[Sidenote: VESUVIUS]

7th February, 1645. The next day, being Saturday, we went four miles out

of town on mules, to see that famous volcano, Mount Vesuvius. Here we

pass a fair fountain, called Labulla, which continually boils, supposed

to proceed from Vesuvius, and thence over a river and bridge, where on a

large upright stone, is engraven a notable inscription relative to the

memorable eruption in 1630.

Approaching the hill, as we were able with our mules, we alighted,

crawling up the rest of the proclivity with great difficulty, now with

our feet, now with our hands, not without many untoward slips which did

much bruise us on the various colored cinders, with which the whole

mountain is covered, some like pitch, others full of perfect brimstone,

others metallic, interspersed with innumerable pumices (of all which I

made a collection), we at the last gained the summit of an extensive

altitude. Turning our faces toward Naples, it presents one of the

goodliest prospects in the world; all the Baiæ, Cuma, Elysian Fields,

Capreæ, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly city, with a

great portion of the Tyrrhene Sea, offering themselves to your view at

once, and at so agreeable a distance, as nothing can be more delightful.

The mountain consists of a double top, the one pointed very sharp, and

commonly appearing above any clouds, the other blunt. Here, as we

approached, we met many large gaping clefts and chasms, out of which

issued such sulphurous blasts and smoke, that we dared not stand long

near them. Having gained the very summit, I laid myself down to look

over into that most frightful and terrible vorago, a stupendous pit of

near three miles in circuit, and half a mile in depth, by a perpendicular

hollow cliff (like that from the highest part of Dover Castle), with now

and then a craggy prominency jetting out. The area at the bottom is

plane, like an even floor, which seems to be made by the wind circling

the ashes by its eddy blasts. In the middle and centre is a hill, shaped

like a great brown loaf, appearing to consist of sulphurous matter,

continually vomiting a foggy exhalation, and ejecting huge stones with an

impetuous noise and roaring, like the report of many muskets discharging.

This horrid barathrum engaged our attention for some hours, both for the

strangeness of the spectacle, and the mention which the old histories

make of it, as one of the most stupendous curiosities in nature, and

which made the learned and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect

the causes, and to lose it in too desperate an approach. It is likewise

famous for the stratagem of the rebel, Spartacus, who did so much

mischief to the State lurking among and protected by, these horrid

caverns, when it was more accessible and less dangerous than it is now;

but especially notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in

_anno_ 1630, it burst out beyond what it had ever done in the memory of

history; throwing out huge stones and fiery pumices in such quantity, as

not only environed the whole mountain, but totally buried and overwhelmed

divers towns and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more than a

hundred miles, and utterly devastating all those vineyards, where

formerly grew the most incomparable Greco; when, bursting through the

bowels of the earth, it absorbed the very sea, and, with its whirling

waters, drew in divers galleys and other vessels to their destruction, as

is faithfully recorded. We descended with more ease than we climbed up,

through a deep valley of pure ashes, which at the late eruption was a

flowing river of melted and burning brimstone, and so came to our mules

at the foot of the mountain.

On Sunday, we with our guide visited the so much celebrated Baia, and

natural rarities of the places adjacent. Here we entered the mountain

Pausilypus, at the left hand of which they showed us Virgil's sepulchre

erected on a steep rock, in form of a small rotunda or cupolated column,

but almost overgrown with bushes and wild bay trees. At the entrance is

this inscription:

_Stanisi Cencovius.

1589

Qui cineres? Tumuli hæc vestigia, conditur olim

Ille hôc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces.

Can Ree MDLIII._[26]

[Footnote 26: Such is the inscription, as copied by Evelyn;

but as its sense is not very clear, and the Diary contains

instances of incorrectness in transcribing, it may be desirable

to subjoin the distich said (by Keysler in his "Travels," ii. 433)

to be the only one in the whole mausoleum:

"_Quæ cineris tumulo hæc vestigia? conditur olim

Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces._"]

After we were advanced into this noble and altogether wonderful crypt,

consisting of a passage spacious enough for two coaches to go abreast,

cut through a rocky mountain near three quarters of a mile (by the

ancient Cimmerii as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, who

employed a hundred thousand men on it), we came to the midway, where

there is a well bored through the diameter of this vast mountain, which

admits the light into a pretty chapel, hewn out of the natural rock,

wherein hang divers lamps, perpetually burning. The way is paved under

foot; but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so excessively in this

much-frequented passage, that we were forced at midday to use a torch. At

length, we were delivered from the bowels of the earth into one of the

most delicious plains in the world: the oranges, lemons, pomegranates,

and other fruits, blushing yet on the perpetually green trees; for the

summer is here eternal, caused by the natural and adventitious heat of

the earth, warmed through the subterranean fires, as was shown us by our

guide, who alighted, and, cutting up a turf with his knife, and

delivering it to me, it was so hot, I was hardly able to hold it in my

hands. This mountain is exceedingly fruitful in vines, and exotics grow

readily.

[Sidenote: LAGO D'AGNANO]

We now came to a lake of about two miles in circumference, environed with

hills; the water of it is fresh and sweet on the surface, but salt at

bottom; some mineral salt conjectured to be the cause, and it is reported

of that profunditude in the middle that it is bottomless. The people

call it Lago d'Agnano, from the multitude of serpents which, involved

together about the spring, fall down from the cliffy hills into it. It

has no fish, nor will any live in it. We tried the old experiment on a

dog in the Grotto del Cane, or Charon's Cave; it is not above three or

four paces deep, and about the height of a man, nor very broad. Whatever

having life enters it, presently expires. Of this we made trial with two

dogs, one of which we bound to a short pole to guide him the more

directly into the further part of the den, where he was no sooner

entered, but--without the least noise, or so much as a struggle, except

that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, his eyes being

fixed:--we drew him out dead to all appearance; but immediately plunging

him into the adjoining lake, within less than half an hour he recovered,

and swimming to shore, ran away from us. We tried the same on another

dog, without the application of the water, and left him quite dead. The

experiment has been made on men, as on that poor creature whom Peter of

Toledo caused to go in; likewise on some Turkish slaves; two soldiers,

and other foolhardy persons, who all perished, and could never be

recovered by the water of the lake, as are dogs; for which many learned

reasons have been offered, as Simon Majolus in his book of the

Canicular-days has mentioned, colloq. 15. And certainly the most likely

is, the effect of those hot and dry vapors which ascend out of the earth,

and are condensed by the ambient cold, as appears by their converting

into crystalline drops on the top, while at the bottom it is so

excessively hot, that a torch being extinguished near it, and lifted a

little distance, was suddenly re-lighted.

Near to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain, of the nature of

sudatories, in certain chambers partitioned with stone for the sick to

sweat in, the vapors here being exceedingly hot, and of admirable success

in the gout, and other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence, we climed up

a hill, the very highway in several places even smoking with heat like a

furnace. The mountains were by the Greeks called Leucogæi, and the fields

Phlegræn. Hercules here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning.

We now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a valley near a quarter

of a mile in breadth, the margin environed with steep cliffs, out of

whose sides and foot break forth fire and smoke in abundance, making a

noise like a tempest of water, and sometimes discharging in loud reports,

like so many guns. The heat of this place is wonderful, the earth itself

being almost unsufferable, and which the subterranean fires have made so

hollow, by having wasted the matter for so many years, that it sounds

like a drum to those who walk upon it; and the water thus struggling with

those fires bubbles and spouts aloft into the air. The mouths of these

spiracles are bestrewed with variously colored cinders, which rise with

the vapor, as do many colored stones, according to the quality of the

combustible matter, insomuch as it is no little adventure to approach

them. They are, however, daily frequented both by sick and well; the

former receiving the fumes, have been recovered of diseases esteemed

incurable. Here we found a great deal of sulphur made, which they refine

in certain houses near the place, casting it into canes, to a very great

value. Near this we were showed a hill of alum, where is one of the best

mineries, yielding a considerable revenue. Some flowers of brass are

found here; but I could not but smile at those who persuade themselves

that here are the gates of purgatory (for which it may be they have

erected, very near it, a convent, and named it St. Januarius), reporting

to have often heard screeches and horrible lamentations proceeding from

these caverns and volcanoes; with other legends of birds that are never

seen, save on Sundays, which cast themselves into the lake at night,

appearing no more all the week after.

We now approached the ruins of a very stately temple, or theater, of 172

feet in length, and about 80 in breadth, thrown down by an earthquake,

not long since; it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under the ground are

many strange meanders; from which it is named the LABYRINTH; this place

is so haunted with bats, that their perpetual fluttering endangered the

putting out our links.

[Sidenote: POZZOLO]

Hence, we passed again those boiling and smoking hills, till we came to

Pozzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, the landing-place of St. Paul, when

he came into Italy, after the tempest described in the Acts of the

Apostles. Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers medals,

antiquities, and other curiosities, of the country people, who daily

find such things among the very old ruins of those places. This town was

formerly a Greek colony, built by the Samians, a seasonable commodious

port, and full of observable antiquities. We saw the ruins of Neptune's

Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and near it the stately palace and

gardens of Peter de Toledo, formerly mentioned. Afterward, we visited

that admirably built Temple of Augustus, seeming to have been hewn out of

an entire rock, though indeed consisting of several square stones. The

inscription remains thus: "_L. Calphurnius L. F. Templum Augusto cum

ornamentis D. D._;" and under it, "_L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus

Architectus_." It is now converted into a church, in which they showed us

huge bones, which they affirm to have been of some giant.

We went to see the ruins of the old haven, so compact with that

bituminous sand in which the materials are laid, as the like is hardly to

be found, though all this has not been sufficient to protect it from the

fatal concussions of several earthquakes (frequent here) which have

almost demolished it, thirteen vast piles of marble only remaining; a

stupendous work in the bosom of Neptune! To this joins the bridge of

Caligula, by which (having now embarked ourselves) we sailed to the

pleasant Baia, almost four miles in length, all which way that proud

Emperor would pass in triumph. Here we rowed along toward a villa of the

orator Cicero's, where we were shown the ruins of his Academy; and, at

the foot of a rock, his Baths, the waters reciprocating their tides with

the neighboring sea. Hard at hand, rises Mount Gaurus, being, as I

conceived, nothing save a heap of pumices, which here float in abundance

on the sea, exhausted of all inflammable matter by the fire, which

renders them light and porous, so as the beds of nitre, which lie deep

under them, having taken fire, do easily eject them. They dig much for

fancied treasure said to be concealed about this place. From hence, we

coasted near the ruins of Portus Julius, where we might see divers

stately palaces that had been swallowed up by the sea after earthquakes.

Coming to shore, we pass by the Lucrine Lake, so famous heretofore for

its delicious oysters, now producing few or none, being divided from the

sea by a bank of incredible labor, the supposed work of Hercules; it is

now half choked up with rubbish, and by part of the new mountain, which

rose partly out of it, and partly out of the sea, and that in the space

of one night and a day, to a very great altitude, on the 29th September,

1538, after many terrible earthquakes, which ruined divers places

thereabout, when at midnight the sea retiring near 200 paces, and yawning

on the sudden, it continued to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in

such quantity, as produced this whole mountain by their fall, making the

inhabitants of Pozzolo to leave their habitations, supposing the end of

the world had been come.

From the left part of this, we walked to the Lake Avernus of a round

form, and totally environed with mountains. This lake was feigned by the

poet for the gates of hell, by which Æneas made his descent, and where he

sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters are of a remarkably black

color; but I tasted of them without danger; hence, they feign that the

river Styx has its source. At one side, stand the handsome ruins of a

Temple dedicated to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but it is controverted.

Opposite to this, having new lighted our torches, we enter a vast cave,

in which having gone about two hundred paces, we pass a narrow entry

which leads us into a room of about ten paces long, proportionably broad

and high; the side walls and roof retain still the golden mosaic, though

now exceedingly decayed by time. Here is a short cell or rather niche,

cut out of the solid rock, somewhat resembling a couch, in which they

report that the Sibylla lay, and uttered her Oracles; but it is supposed

by most to have been a bath only. This subterranean grot leads quite

through to Cuma, but is in some places obstructed by the earth which has

sunk in, so as we were constrained back again, and to creep on our

bellies, before we came to the light. It is reported Nero had once

resolved to cut a channel for two great galleys that should have extended

to Ostia, 150 miles distant. The people now call it Licola.

From hence, we ascended to that most ancient city of Italy, the renowned

Cuma, built by the Grecians. It stands on a very eminent promontory, but

is now a heap of ruins. A little below, stands the Arco Felice,

heretofore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations of divers goodly

buildings; among whose heaps are frequently found statues and other

antiquities, by such as dig for them. Near this is the Lake Acherutia,

and Acheron. Returning to the shore, we came to the Bagni de Tritoli and

Diana, which are only long narrow passages cut through the main rock,

where the vapors ascend so hot, that entering with the body erect you

will even faint with excessive perspiration; but, stooping lower, as

sudden a cold surprises. These sudatories are much in request for many

infirmities. Now we entered the haven of the Bahiæ, where once stood that

famous town, so-called from the companion of Ulysses here buried; not

without great reason celebrated for one of the most delicious places that

the sun shines on, according to that of Horace:

"_Nullus in Orbe locus Baiis prælucet amoenis._"

Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now remain little save the

ruins, whereof the most entire is that of Diana's Temple, and another of

Venus. Here were those famous poles of lampreys that would come to hand

when called by name, as Martial tells us. On the summit of the rock

stands a strong castle garrisoned to protect the shore from Turkish

pirates. It was once the retiring place of Julius Cæsar.

Passing by the shore again, we entered Bauli, observable from the

monstrous murder of Nero committed on his mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre

was yet shown us in the rock, which we entered, being covered with sundry

heads and figures of beasts. We saw there the roots of a tree turned into

stone, and are continually dropping.

[Sidenote: MISENUS]

Thus having viewed the foundations of the old Cimmeria, the palaces of

Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities, we

proceeded toward the promontory of Misenus, renowned for the sepulchre of

Æneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now hardly a ruin, said to

have been built from this place to the promontory of Minerva, fifty miles

distant, now discontinued and demolished by the frequent earthquakes.

Here was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Cæsar died; and here

runs the Aqueduct, thought to be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage,

heretofore nobly arched with marble, as the ruins testify. Hence, we

walked to those receptacles of water called _Piscina Mirabilis_, being a

vault of 500 feet long, and twenty-two in breadth, the roof propped up

with four ranks of square pillars, twelve in a row; the walls are brick,

plastered over with such a composition as for strength and politure

resembles white marble. 'Tis conceived to have been built by Nero, as a

conservatory for fresh water; as were also the Centi Camerelli, into

which we were next led. All these crypta being now almost sunk into the

earth, show yet their former amplitude and magnificence.

Returning toward the Baia, we again pass the Elysian Fields, so

celebrated by the poets, nor unworthily, for their situation and verdure,

being full of myrtles and sweet shrubs, and having a most delightful

prospect toward the Tyrrhene Sea. Upon the verge of these remain the

ruins of the Mercato di Saboto, formerly a Circus; over the arches stand

divers urns, full of Roman ashes.

Having well satisfied our curiosity among these antiquities, we retired

to our felucca, which rowed us back again toward Pozzolo, at the very

place of St. Paul's landing. Keeping along the shore, they showed us a

place where the sea water and sands did exceedingly boil. Thence, to the

island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph; and thus we leave the Baia, so

renowned for the sweet retirements of the most opulent and voluptuous

Romans. They certainly were places of uncommon amenity, as their yet

tempting site, and other circumstances of natural curiosities, easily

invite me to believe, since there is not in the world so many stupendous

rarities to be met with, as in the circle of a few miles which environ

these blissful abodes.

[Sidenote: NAPLES]

8th February, 1645. Returned to Naples, we went to see the Arsenal, well

furnished with galleys and other vessels. The city is crowded with

inhabitants, gentlemen and merchants. The government is held of the Pope

by an annual tribute of 40,000 ducats and a white jennet; but the

Spaniard trusts more to the power of those his natural subjects there;

Apulia and Calabria yielding him near four millions of crowns yearly to

maintain it. The country is divided into thirteen Provinces, twenty

Archbishops, and one hundred and seven Bishops; the estates of the

nobility, in default of the male line, reverting to the King. Besides the

Vice-Roy, there is among the Chief Magistrates a High Constable,

Admiral, Chief Justice, Great Chamberlain, and Chancellor, with a

Secretary; these being prodigiously avaricious, do wonderfully enrich

themselves out of the miserable people's labor, silks, manna, sugar, oil,

wine, rice, sulphur, and alum; for with all these riches is this

delicious country blest. The manna falls at certain seasons on the

adjoining hills in form of a thick dew. The very winter here is a summer,

ever fruitful, so that in the middle of February we had melons, cherries,

apricots, and many other sorts of fruit.

The building of the city is for the size the most magnificent of any in

Europe, the streets exceeding large, well paved, having many vaults and

conveyances under them for the sulliage; which renders them very sweet

and clean, even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth more than 3,000

churches and monasteries, and these the best built and adorned of any in

Italy. They greatly affect the Spanish gravity in their habit; delight in

good horses; the streets are full of gallants on horseback, in coaches

and sedans, from hence brought first into England by Sir Sanders Duncomb.

The women are generally well featured, but excessively libidinous. The

country people so jovial and addicted to music, that the very husbandmen

almost universally play on the guitar, singing and composing songs in

praise of their sweethearts, and will commonly go to the field with their

fiddle; they are merry, witty, and genial; all which I much attribute to

the excellent quality of the air. They have a deadly hatred to the

French, so that some of our company were flouted at for wearing red

cloaks, as the mode then was.

This I made the _non ultra_ of my travels, sufficiently sated with

rolling up and down, and resolving within myself to be no longer an

_individuum vagum_, if ever I got home again; since, from the report of

divers experienced and curious persons, I had been assured there was

little more to be seen in the rest of the civil world, after Italy,

France, Flanders, and the Low Countries, but plain and prodigious

barbarism.

[Sidenote: ROME]

Thus, about the 7th of February,[27] we set out on our return to Rome by

the same way we came, not daring to adventure by sea, as some of our

company were inclined to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on that

coast; nor made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated place

and sepulchre of the famous duelists who decided the ancient quarrel

between their imperious neighbors with the loss of their lives. These

brothers, the Horatii and Curiatii, lie buried near the highway, under

two ancient pyramids of stone, now somewhat decayed and overgrown with

rubbish. We took the opportunity of tasting the wine here, which is

famous.

[Footnote 27: Evelyn's dates in this portion of his Diary appear to

require occasionally that qualification of "about."]

Being arrived at Rome on the 13th of February, we were again invited to

Signor Angeloni's study, where with greater leisure we surveyed the

rarities, as his cabinet and medals especially, esteemed one of the best

collections of them in Europe. He also showed us two antique lamps, one

of them dedicated to Pallas, the other _Laribus Sacru'_, as appeared by

their inscriptions; some old Roman rings and keys; the Egyptian Isis,

cast in iron; sundry rare basso-relievos; good pieces of paintings,

principally of Christ of Correggio, with this painter's own face

admirably done by himself; divers of both the Bassanos; a great number of

pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs; an infinity of natural

rarities, dried animals, Indian habits and weapons, shells, etc.; divers

very antique statues of brass; some lamps of so fine an earth that they

resembled cornelians, for transparency and color; hinges of Corinthian

brass, and one great nail of the same metal found in the ruins of Nero's

golden house.

In the afternoon, we ferried over to Transtevere, to the palace of Gichi,

to review the works of Raphael: and, returning by St. Angelo, we saw the

castle as far as was permitted, and on the other side considered those

admirable pilasters supposed to be of the foundation of the Pons

Sublicius, over which Horatius Cocles passed; here anchor three or four

water mills, invented by Belizarius: and thence had another sight of the

Farnesi's gardens, and of the terrace where is that admirable painting of

Raphael, being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought _á fresco_,

preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well it merits, being certainly one

of the most wonderful pieces of work in the world.

14th February, 1645. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built and endowed

by Cardinal Sfrondæti, who has erected a stately altar near the body of

this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about, a

veil on her head, and the bloody scars of three wounds on the neck; the

body is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it, in snow-white

marble. Other Saints lie here, decorated with splendid ornaments, lamps,

and incensories of great cost. A little farther, they show us the Bath of

St. Cecilia, to which joins a Convent of Friars, where is the picture of

the Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the portico, taken from the

Baths of Septimius Severus.

15th February, 1645. Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tiber, and visited

the Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's), formerly cut in the shape of

a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisk represented the

mast. In the church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the Apostle. Here

are the ruins of the Temple of Æsculapius, now converted into a stately

hospital and a pretty convent. Opposite to it, is the convent and church

of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing remarkable, save an old broken

altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. Hence, we went to a

cupola, now a church, formerly dedicated to the sun. Opposite to it,

Santa Maria Schola Græca, where formerly that tongue was taught; said to

be the second church dedicated in Rome to the Blessed Virgin; bearing

also the title of a Cardinalate. Behind this stands the great altar of

Hercules, much demolished. Near this, being at the foot of Mount

Aventine, are the Pope's salt houses. Ascending the hill, we came to St.

Sabina, an ancient fabric, formerly sacred to Diana; there, in a chapel,

is an admirable picture, the work of Livia Fontana, set about with

columns of alabaster, and in the middle of the church is a stone, cast,

as they report, by the Devil at St. Dominic, while he was at mass. Hence,

we traveled toward a heap of rubbish, called the Marmorata, on the bank

of the Tiber, a magazine of stones; and near which formerly stood a

triumphal arch, in honor of Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The ruins

of the bridge yet appear.

We were now got to Mons Testaceus, a heap of potsherds, almost 200 feet

high, thought to have been thrown there and amassed by the subjects of

the Commonwealth bringing their tribute in earthen vessels, others (more

probably) that it was a quarter of the town where potters lived; at the

summit Rome affords a noble prospect. Before it is a spacious green,

called the Hippodrome, where Olympic games were celebrated, and the

people mustered, as in our London Artillery-Ground. Going hence, to the

old wall of the city, we much admired the pyramid, or tomb, of Caius

Cestius, of white marble, one of the most ancient entire monuments,

inserted in the wall, with this inscription:

"_C. Cestius L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr. pl.

VII. Vir. Epulonum._"

And a little beneath: