30th September, 1644. We bargained with a waterman to carry us to Avignon

on the river, and got the first night to Vienne, in Dauphiné. This is an

Archbishopric, and the province gives title to the heir-apparent of

France. Here we supped and lay, having among other dainties, a dish of

truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, found out by a hog trained to it,

and for which those animals are sold at a great price. It is in truth an

incomparable meat. We were shown the ruins of an amphitheatre, pretty

entire; and many handsome palaces, especially that of Pontius Pilate, not

far from the town, at the foot of a solitary mountain, near the river,

having four pinnacles. Here it is reported he passed his exile, and

precipitated himself into the lake not far from it. The house is modern,

and seems to be the seat of some gentleman; being in a very pleasant,

though melancholy place. The cathedral of Vienne is St. Maurice; and

there are many other pretty buildings, but nothing more so, than the

mills where they hammer and polish the sword blades.

Hence, the next morning we swam (for the river here is so rapid that the

boat was only steered) to a small village called Thein, where we dined.

Over against this is another town, named Tournon, where is a very strong

castle under a high precipice. To the castle joins the Jesuits' College,

who have a fair library. The prospect was so tempting, that I could not

forbear designing it with my crayon.

We then came to Valence, a capital city carrying the title of a Duchy;

but the Bishop is now sole Lord temporal of it, and the country about it.

The town having a University famous for the study of the civil law, is

much frequented; but the churches are none of the fairest, having been

greatly defaced in the time of the wars. The streets are full of pretty

fountains. The citadel is strong and garrisoned. Here we passed the

night, and the next morning by Pont St. Esprit, which consists of

twenty-two arches; in the piers of the arches are windows, as it were, to

receive the water when it is high and full. Here we went on shore, it

being very dangerous to pass the bridge in a boat.

[Sidenote: AVIGNON]

Hence, leaving our barge, we took horse, seeing at a distance the town

and principality of Orange; and, lodging one night on the way, we arrived

at noon at Avignon. This town has belonged to the Popes ever since the

time of Clement V.; being, in 1352, alienated by Jane, Queen of Naples

and Sicily. Entering the gates, the soldiers at the guard took our

pistols and carbines, and examined us very strictly; after that, having

obtained the Governor's and the Vice-Legate's leave to tarry three days,

we were civilly conducted to our lodging. The city is on the Rhone, and

divided from the newer part, or town, which is on the other side of the

river, by a very fair stone bridge (which has been broken); at one end is

a very high rock, on which is a strong castle well furnished with

artillery. The walls of the city are of large, square freestone, the most

neat and best in repair I ever saw. It is full of well-built palaces;

those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop being the most magnificent. There

are many sumptuous churches, especially that of St. Magdalene and St.

Martial, wherein the tomb of the Cardinal d'Amboise is the most

observable. Clement VI. lies buried in that of the Celestines, the altar

whereof is exceedingly rich: but for nothing I more admired it than the

tomb of Madonna Laura, the celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the

Arsenal, the Pope's palace, and the Synagogue of the Jews, who here are

distinguished by their red hats. Vaucluse, so much renowned for the

solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the castle; but could not go to

visit it for want of time, being now taking mules and a guide for

Marseilles.

We lay at Loumas; the next morning, came to Aix, having passed that

extremely rapid and dangerous river of Durance. In this tract, all the

heaths, or commons, are covered with rosemary, lavender, lentiscus, and

the like sweet shrubs, for many miles together; which to me was very

pleasant. Aix is the chief city of Provence, being a Parliament and

Presidential town, with other royal Courts and Metropolitan jurisdiction.

It is well built, the houses very high, and the streets ample. The

Cathedral, St. Savior's, is a noble pile adorned with innumerable

figures; especially that of St. Michael; the Baptisterie, the Palace, the

Court, built in a most spacious piazza, are very fair. The Duke of

Guise's house is worth seeing, being furnished with many antiquities in

and about it. The Jesuits have here a royal College, and the City is a

University.

7th October, 1644. We had a most delicious journey to Marseilles, through

a country sweetly declining to the south and Mediterranean coasts, full

of vineyards and olive-yards, orange trees, myrtles, pomegranates, and

the like sweet plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated villas to

the number of above 1,500, built all of freestone, and in prospect

showing as if they were so many heaps of snow dropped out of the clouds

among those perennial greens. It was almost at the shutting of the gates

that we arrived. Marseilles is on the sea-coast, on a pleasant rising

ground, well walled, with an excellent port for ships and galleys,

secured by a huge chain of iron drawn across the harbor at pleasure; and

there is a well-fortified tower with three other forts, especially that

built on a rock; but the castle commanding the city is that of Notre Dame

de la Garde. In the chapel hung up are divers crocodiles' skins.

We went then to visit the galleys, being about twenty-five in number; the

Capitaine of the Galley Royal gave us most courteous entertainment in his

cabin, the slaves in the interim playing both loud and soft music very

rarely. Then he showed us how he commanded their motions with a nod, and

his whistle making them row out. The spectacle was to me new and strange,

to see so many hundreds of miserably naked persons, their heads being

shaven close, and having only high red bonnets, a pair of coarse canvas

drawers, their whole backs and legs naked, doubly chained about their

middle and legs, in couples, and made fast to their seats, and all

commanded in a trice by an imperious and cruel seaman. One Turk among the

rest he much favored, who waited on him in his cabin, but with no other

dress than the rest, and a chain locked about his leg, but not coupled.

This galley was richly carved and gilded, and most of the rest were very

beautiful. After bestowing something on the slaves, the capitaine sent a

band of them to give us music at dinner where we lodged. I was amazed to

contemplate how these miserable caitiffs lie in their galley crowded

together; yet there was hardly one but had some occupation, by which, as

leisure and calms permitted, they got some little money, insomuch as some

of them have, after many years of cruel servitude, been able to purchase

their liberty. The rising-forward and falling-back at their oar, is a

miserable spectacle, and the noise of their chains, with the roaring of

the beaten waters, has something of strange and fearful in it to one

unaccustomed to it. They are ruled and chastised by strokes on their

backs and soles of their feet, on the least disorder, and without the

least humanity, yet are they cheerful and full of knavery.

After dinner, we saw the church of St. Victoire, where is that saint's

head in a shrine of silver, which weighs 600 pounds. Thence to Notre

Dame, exceedingly well built, which is the cathedral. Thence to the Duke

of Guise's Palace, the Palace of Justice, and the Maison du Roi; but

nothing is more strange than the great number of slaves working in the

streets, and carrying burdens, with their confused noises, and jingling

of their huge chains. The chief trade of the town is in silks and drugs

out of Africa, Syria, and Egypt, and Barbary horses, which are brought

hither in great numbers. The town is governed by four captains, has three

consuls, and one assessor, three judges royal; the merchants have a judge

for ordinary causes. Here we bought umbrellas against the heats, and

consulted of our journey to Cannes by land, for fear of the Picaroon

Turks, who make prize of any small vessels about these parts; we not

finding a galley bound for Genoa, whither we were designed.

[Sidenote: PERIGUEUX]

9th October, 1644. We took mules, passing the first night very late in

sight of St. Baume, and the solitary grot where they affirmed Mary

Magdalen did her penance. The next day, we lay at Perigueux, a city built

on an old foundation; witness the ruins of a most stately amphitheatre,

which I went out to design, being about a flight-shot from the town; they

call it now the Rolsies. There is also a strong tower near the town,

called the Visone, but the town and city are at some distance from each

other. It is a bishopric; has a cathedral with divers noblemen's houses

in sight of the sea. The place was formerly called Forum Julij, well

known by antiquaries.

10th October, 1644. We proceeded by the ruins of a stately aqueduct. The

soil about the country is rocky, full of pines and rare simples.

11th October, 1644. We lay at Cannes, which is a small port on the

Mediterranean; here we agreed with a seaman to carry us to Genoa, and,

having procured a bill of health (without which there is no admission at

any town in Italy), we embarked on the 12th. We touched at the islands of

St. Margaret and St. Honore, lately retaken from the Spaniards with great

bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here, having paid some small duty, we bought

some trifles offered us by the soldiers, but without going on shore.

Hence, we coasted within two leagues of Antibes, which is the utmost town

in France. Thence by Nice, a city in Savoy, built all of brick, which

gives it a very pleasant appearance toward the sea, having a very high

castle which commands it. We sailed by Morgus, now called Monaco, having

passed Villa Franca, heretofore Portus Herculis, when, arriving after the

gates were shut, we were forced to abide all night in the barge, which

was put into the haven, the wind coming contrary. In the morning, we were

hastened away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go

up and see this strong and considerable place, which now belongs to a

prince of the family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and

himself under the protection of the French. The situation is on a

promontory of solid stone and rock. The town walls very fair. We were

told that within it was an ample court, and a palace, furnished with the

most rich and princely movables, and a collection of statues, pictures,

and massy plate to an immense amount.

[Sidenote: SAVONA]

We sailed by Menton and Ventimiglia, being the first city of the republic

of Genoa; supped at Oneglia, where we anchored and lay on shore. The next

morning, we coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica, and St. Remo, where

the shore is furnished with evergreens, oranges, citrons, and date trees;

we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morning by Diano, Araisso, famous for

the best coral fishing, growing in abundance on the rocks, deep and

continually covered by the sea. By Albenga and Finale, a very fair and

strong town belonging to the King of Spain, for which reason a monsieur

in our vessel was extremely afraid, as was the patron of our bark, for

they frequently catch French prizes as they creep by these shores to go

into Italy; he therefore plied both sails and oars, to get under the

protection of a Genoese galley that passed not far before us, and in

whose company we sailed as far as the Cape of Savona, a town built at the

rise of the Apennines: for all this coast (except a little of St. Remo)

is a high and steep mountainous ground, consisting all of rock-marble,

without any grass, tree, or rivage, formidable to look on. A strange

object it is, to consider how some poor cottages stand fast on the

declivities of these precipices, and by what steps the inhabitants ascend

to them. The rock consists of all sorts of the most precious marbles.

Here, on the 15th, forsaking our galley, we encountered a little foul

weather, which made us creep _terra, terra_, as they call it, and so a

vessel that encountered us advised us to do; but our patron, striving to

double the point of Savona, making out into the wind put us into great

hazard; for blowing very hard from land between those horrid gaps of the

mountains, it set so violently, as raised on the sudden so great a sea,

that we could not recover the weather-shore for many hours, insomuch

that, what with the water already entered, and the confusion of fearful

passengers (of which one was an Irish bishop, and his brother, a priest,

were confessing some as at the article of death), we were almost

abandoned to despair, our pilot himself giving us up for lost. And now,

as we were weary with pumping and laving out the water, almost sinking,

it pleased God on the sudden to appease the wind, and with much ado and

great peril we recovered the shore, which we now kept in view within half

a league in sight of those pleasant villas, and within scent of those

fragrant orchards which are on this coast, full of princely retirements

for the sumptuousness of their buildings, and nobleness of the

plantations, especially those at St. Pietro d'Arena; from whence, the

wind blowing as it did, might perfectly be smelt the peculiar joys of

Italy in the perfumes of orange, citron, and jasmine flowers, for divers

leagues seaward.[19]

[Footnote 19: Evelyn seems to have been much enchanted by the

fragrancy of the air of this coast, for he has noticed it again in

his dedication of the "Fumifugium," to Charles the Second.]

[Sidenote: GENOA]

16th October, 1644. We got to anchor under the Pharos, or watch-tower,

built on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole of Genoa, the weather being

still so foul that for two hours at least we durst not stand into the

haven. Toward evening we adventured, and came on shore by the

Prattique-house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics, we were

had to the Ducal Palace, and there our names being taken, we were

conducted to our inn, kept by one Zacharias, an Englishman. I shall never

forget a story of our host Zachary, who, on the relation of our peril,

told us another of his own, being shipwrecked, as he affirmed solemnly,

in the middle of a great sea somewhere in the West Indies, that he swam

no less than twenty-two leagues to another island, with a tinderbox

wrapped up in his hair, which was not so much as wet all the way; that

picking up the carpenter's tools with other provisions in a chest, he and

the carpenter, who accompanied him (good swimmers it seems both), floated

the chest before them; and, arriving at last in a place full of wood,

they built another vessel, and so escaped! After this story, we no more

talked of our danger; Zachary put us quite down.

17th October, 1644. Accompanied by a most courteous marchand, called

Tomson, we went to view the rarities. The city is built in the hollow or

bosom of a mountain, whose ascent is very steep, high, and rocky, so

that, from the Lantern and Mole to the hill, it represents the shape of a

theater; the streets and buildings so ranged one above another, as our

seats are in the playhouses; but, from their materials, beauty, and

structure, never was an artificial scene more beautiful to the eye, nor

is any place, for the size of it, so full of well-designed and stately

palaces, as may be easily concluded by that rare book in a large folio

which the great virtuoso and painter, Paul Rubens, has published, though

it contains [the description of] only one street and two or three

churches.

The first palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo del Negros, to

which we passed by boat across the harbor. Here I could not but observe

the sudden and devilish passion of a seaman, who plying us was

intercepted by another fellow, that interposed his boat before him and

took us in; for the tears gushing out of his eyes, he put his finger in

his mouth and almost bit it off by the joint, showing it to his

antagonist as an assurance to him of some bloody revenge, if ever he came

near that part of the harbor again. Indeed this beautiful city is more

stained with such horrid acts of revenge and murders, than any one place

in Europe, or haply in the world, where there is a political government,

which makes it unsafe to strangers. It is made a galley matter to carry a

knife whose point is not broken off.

This palace of Negros is richly furnished with the rarest pictures; on

the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove of stately trees, among

which are sheep, shepherds, and wild beasts, cut very artificially in a

gray stone; fountains, rocks, and fish ponds; casting your eyes one way,

you would imagine yourself in a wilderness and silent country; sideways,

in the heart of a great city; and backward, in the midst of the sea. All

this is within one acre of ground. In the house, I noticed those

red-plaster floors which are made so hard, and kept so polished, that for

some time one would take them for whole pieces of porphyry. I have

frequently wondered that we never practiced this [art] in England for

cabinets and rooms of state, for it appears to me beyond any invention of

that kind; but by their carefully covering them with canvass and fine

mattresses, where there is much passage, I suppose they are not lasting

there in glory, and haply they are often repaired.

There are numerous other palaces of particular curiosities, for the

marchands being very rich, have, like our neighbors, the Hollanders,

little or no extent of ground to employ their estates in; as those in

pictures and hangings, so these lay it out on marble houses and rich

furniture. One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the Prince

Doria, which reaches from the sea to the summit of the mountains. The

house is most magnificently built without, nor less gloriously furnished

within, having whole tables and bedsteads of massy silver, many of them

set with agates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, torquoises, and

other precious stones. The pictures and statues are innumerable. To this

palace belong three gardens, the first whereof is beautified with a

terrace, supported by pillars of marble; there is a fountain of eagles,

and one of Neptune, with other sea-gods, all of the purest white marble;

they stand in a most ample basin of the same stone. At the side of this

garden is such an aviary as Sir Francis Bacon describes in his "_Sermones

Fidelium_," or "Essays," wherein grow trees of more than two feet

diameter, besides cypress, myrtles, lentiscuses, and other rare shrubs,

which serve to nestle and perch all sorts of birds, who have air and

place enough under their airy canopy, supported with huge iron work,

stupendous for its fabric and the charge. The other two gardens are full

of orange trees, citrons, and pomegranates, fountains, grots, and

statues. One of the latter is a colossal Jupiter, under which is the

sepulchre of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this family

received of the King of Spain 500 crowns a year, during the life of that

faithful animal. The reservoir of water here is a most admirable piece of

art; and so is the grotto over against it.

We went hence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is also the Court of

Justice; thence to the Merchant's Walk, rarely covered. Near the Ducal

Palace we saw the public armory, which was almost all new, most neatly

kept and ordered, sufficient for 30,000 men. We were showed many rare

inventions and engines of war peculiar to that armory, as in the state

when guns were first put in use. The garrison of the town chiefly

consists of Germans and Corsicans. The famous Strada Nova, built wholly

of polished marble, was designed by Rubens, and for stateliness of the

buildings, paving, and evenness of the street, is far superior to any in

Europe, for the number of houses; that of Don Carlo Doria is a most

magnificent structure. In the gardens of the old Marquis Spinola, I saw

huge citrons hanging on the trees, applied like our apricots to the

walls. The churches are no less splendid than the palaces; that of St.

Francis is wholly built of Parian marble; St. Laurence, in the middle of

the city, of white and black polished stone, the inside wholly incrusted

with marble and other precious materials; on the altar of St. John stand

four sumptuous columns of porphyry; and here we were showed an emerald,

supposed to be one of the largest in the world. The church of St.

Ambrosio, belonging to the Jesuits, will, when finished, exceed all the

rest; and that of the Annunciada, founded at the charges of one family,

in the present and future design can never be outdone for cost and art.

From the churches we walked to the Mole, a work of solid huge stone,

stretching itself near 600 paces into the main sea, and secures the

harbor, heretofore of no safety. Of all the wonders of Italy, for the art

and nature of the design, nothing parallels this. We passed over to the

Pharos, or Lantern, a tower of very great height. Here we took horses,

and made the circuit of the city as far as the new walls, built of a

prodigious height, and with Herculean industry; witness those vast pieces

of whole mountains which they have hewn away, and blown up with

gunpowder, to render them steep and inaccessible. They are not much less

than twenty English miles in extent, reaching beyond the utmost buildings

of the city. From one of these promontories we could easily discern the

island of Corsica; and from the same, eastward, we saw a vale having a

great torrent running through a most desolate barren country; and then

turning our eyes more northward, saw those delicious villas of St. Pietro

d'Arena, which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retirements of

the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much pain, we descended toward the

Arsenal, where the galleys lie in excellent order.

The inhabitants of the city are much affected to the Spanish mode and

stately garb. From the narrowness of the streets, they use sedans and

litters, and not coaches.

19th October, 1644. We embarked in a felucca for Livorno, or Leghorn; but

the sea running very high, we put in at Porto Venere, which we made with

peril, between two narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed with

great velocity; but we were soon delivered into as great a calm and a

most ample harbor, being in the Golfo di Spetia. From hence, we could see

Pliny's Delphini Promontorium, now called Capo fino. Here stood that

famous city of Luna, whence the port was named Lunaris, being about two

leagues over, more resembling a lake than a haven, but defended by

castles and excessive high mountains. We landed at Lerici, where, being

Sunday, was a great procession, carrying the Sacrament about the streets

in solemn devotion. After dinner we took post-horses, passing through

whole groves of olive trees, the way somewhat rugged and hilly at first,

but afterward pleasant. Thus we passed through the towns of Sarzana and

Massa, and the vast marble quarries of Carrara, and lodged in an obscure

inn, at a place called Viregio. The next morning we arrived at Pisa,

where I met my old friend, Mr. Thomas Henshaw, who was then newly come

out of Spain, and from whose company I never parted till more than a year

after.

The city of Pisa is as much worth seeing as any in Italy; it has

contended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily, and even Carthage. The

palace and church of St. Stefano (where the order of knighthood called by

that name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside thereof

being altogether of polished marble; within, it is full of tables

relating to this Order; over which hang divers banners and pendants, with

other trophies taken by them from the Turks, against whom they are

particularly obliged to fight; though a religious order, they are

permitted to marry. At the front of the palace stands a fountain, and the

statue of the great Duke Cosmo. The Campanile, or Settezonio, built by

John Venipont, a German, consists of several orders of pillars, thirty in

a row, designed to be much higher. It stands alone on the right side of

the cathedral, strangely remarkable for this, that the beholder would

expect it to fall, being built exceedingly declining, by a rare address

of the architect; and how it is supported from falling I think would

puzzle a good geometrician. The Duomo, or Cathedral, standing near it, is

a superb structure, beautified with six columns of great antiquity; the

gates are of brass, of admirable workmanship. The cemetery called Campo

Santo is made of divers galley ladings of earth formerly brought from

Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature, as to consume dead bodies in

forty hours. 'Tis cloistered with marble arches; and here lies buried the

learned Philip Decius, who taught in this University. At one side of this

church stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessel, which heretofore

contained the tribute paid yearly by the city to Cæsar. It is placed, as

I remember, on a pillar of opal stone, with divers other antique urns.

Near this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni,

built of pure white marble, and covered with so artificial a cupola,

that the voice uttered under it seems to break out of a cloud. The font

and pulpit, supported by four lions, is of inestimable value for the

preciousness of the materials. The place where these buildings stand they

call the AREA. Hence, we went to the College, to which joins a gallery so

furnished with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, dried animals,

skeletons, etc., as is hardly to be seen in Italy. To this the Physic

Garden lies, where is a noble palm tree, and very fine waterworks. The

river Arno runs through the middle of this stately city, whence the main

street is named Lung 'Arno. It is so ample that the Duke's galleys, built

in the arsenal here, are easily conveyed to Livorno; over the river is an

arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and serving for a bridge, is

nowhere in Europe. The Duke has a stately Palace, before which is placed

the statue of Ferdinand the Third; over against it is the Exchange, built

of marble. Since this city came to be under the Dukes of Tuscany, it has

been much depopulated, though there is hardly in Italy any which exceeds

it for stately edifices. The situation of it is low and flat; but the

inhabitants have spacious gardens, and even fields within the walls.

[Sidenote: LIVORNO]

21st October, 1644. We took coach to Livorno, through the Great Duke's

new park full of huge cork trees, the underwood all myrtles, among which

were many buffaloes feeding, a kind of wild ox, short nose with horns

reversed; those who work with them command them, as our bearwards do the

bears, with a ring through the nose, and a cord. Much of this park, as

well as a great part of the country about it, is very fenny, and the air

very bad.

Leghorn is the prime port belonging to all the Duke's territories;

heretofore a very obscure town, but since Duke Ferdinand has strongly

fortified it (after the modern way), drained the marshes by cutting a

channel thence to Pisa navigable sixteen miles, and has raised a Mole,

emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it is become a place of

great receipt; it has also a place for the galleys, where they lie safe.

Before the sea is an ample piazza for the market, where are the statues

in copper of the four slaves, much exceeding the life for proportion,

and, in the judgment of most artists, one of the best pieces of modern

work. Here, especially in this piazza, is such a concourse of slaves,

Turks, Moors, and other nations, that the number and confusion is

prodigious; some buying, others selling, others drinking, others playing,

some working, others sleeping, fighting, singing, weeping, all nearly

naked, and miserably chained. Here was a tent, where any idle fellow

might stake his liberty against a few crowns, at dice, or other hazard;

and, if he lost, he was immediately chained and led away to the galleys,

where he was to serve a term of years, but from whence they seldom

returned; many sottish persons, in a drunken bravado, would try their

fortune in this way.

The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and excellently painted _á

fresco_ on the outer walls, with representations of many of their

victories over the Turks. The houses, though low on account of the

earthquakes which frequently happen here, (as did one during my being in

Italy), are very well built; the piazza is very fair and commodious, and,

with the church, whose four columns at the portico are of black marble

polished, gave the first hint to the building both of the church and

piazza in Covent Garden with us, though very imperfectly pursued.

[Sidenote: FLORENCE]

22d October, 1644. From Livorno, I took coach to Empoly, where we lay,

and the next day arrived at Florence, being recommended to the house of

Signor Baritiére, in the Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we were

exceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Apennines, the

west part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified with

more than a thousand houses and country palaces of note, belonging to

gentlemen of the town. The river Arno runs through the city, in a broad,

but very shallow channel, dividing it, as it were, in the middle, and

over it are four most sumptuous bridges of stone. On that nearest to our

quarter are the four Seasons, in white marble; on another are the

goldsmiths' shops; at the head of the former stands a column of ophite,

upon which a statue of Justice, with her balance and sword, cut out of

porphyry, and the more remarkable for being the first which had been

carved out of that hard material, and brought to perfection, after the

art had been utterly lost; they say this was done by hardening the tools

in the juice of certain herbs. This statue was erected in that corner,

because there Cosmo was first saluted with the news of Sienna being

taken.

Near this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely piece of

architecture, in a rustic manner. The Palace of Pitti was built by that

family, but of late greatly beautified by Cosmo with huge square stones

of the Doric, Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a terrace at each

side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that ends in a

cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a vista to the gardens.

Nothing is more admirable than the vacant staircase, marbles, statues,

urns, pictures, court, grotto, and waterworks. In the quadrangle is a

huge jetto of water in a volto of four faces, with noble statues at each

square, especially the Diana of porphyry above the grotto. We were here

shown a prodigious great loadstone.

The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, aviaries,

vivaries, fountains, especially one of five jettos, the middle basin

being one of the longest stones I ever saw. Here is everything to make

such a Paradise delightful. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an

orange tree. There was much topiary-work, and columns in architecture

about the hedges. The Duke has added an ample laboratory, over against

which stands a fort on a hill, where they told us his treasure is kept.

In this Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living with his Swiss guards,

after the frugal Italian way, and even selling what he can spare of his

wines, at the cellar under his very house, wicker bottles dangling over

even the chief entrance into the palace, serving for a vintner's bush.

In the Church of Santo Spirito the altar and reliquary are most rich, and

full of precious stones; there are four pillars of a kind of serpentine,

and some of blue. Hence we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called

Palazzo Vecchio, before which is a statue of David, by Michael Angelo,

and one of Hercules, killing Cacus, the work of Baccio Bandinelli. The

quadrangle about this is of the Corinthian order, and in the hall are

many rare marbles, as those of Leo X. and Clement VII., both Popes of the

Medicean family; also the acts of Cosmo, in rare painting. In the chapel

is kept (as they would make one believe) the original Gospel of St. John,

written with his own hand; and the famous Florentine Pandects, and

divers precious stones. Near it is another pendent Tower like that of

Pisa, always threatening ruin.

Under the Court of Justice is a stately arcade for men to walk in, and

over that, the shops of divers rare artists who continually work for the

great Duke. Above this is that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or repository,

wherein are hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of marble and

metal, vases of porphyry, etc.; but among the statues none so famous as

the Scipio, the Boar, the Idol of Apollo, brought from the Delphic

Temple, and two triumphant columns. Over these hang the pictures of the

most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or arms, to the number of

300, taken out of the museum of Paulus Jovius. They then led us into a

large square room, in the middle of which stood a cabinet of an

octangular form, so adorned and furnished with crystals, agates, and

sculptures, as exceeds any description. This cabinet is called the

_Tribuna_ and in it is a pearl as big as an hazelnut. The cabinet is of

ebony, lazuli, and jasper; over the door is a round of M. Angelo; on the

cabinet, Leo X. with other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and

Correggio, viz, a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, two Apostles, two heads of

Durer, rarely carved. Over this cabinet is a globe of ivory, excellently

carved; the Labors of Hercules, in massy silver, and many incomparable

pictures in small. There is another, which had about it eight Oriental

columns of alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head of a Cæsar,

covered with a canopy so richly set with precious stones, that they

resembled a firmament of stars. Within it was our Savior's Passion, and

the twelve Apostles in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hundred

thousand crowns. In another, with calcedon pillars, was a series of

golden medals. Here is also another rich ebony cabinet cupolaed with a

tortoise shell, and containing a collection of gold medals esteemed worth

50,000 crowns; a wreathed pillar of Oriental alabaster, divers paintings

of Da Vinci, Pontorno, del Sarto, an _Ecce Homo_ of Titian, a Boy of

Bronzini, etc. They showed us a branch of coral fixed on the rock, which

they affirm does still grow. In another room, is kept the Tabernacle

appointed for the chapel of St. Laurence, about which are placed small

statues of Saints, of precious material; a piece of such art and cost,

that having been these forty years in perfecting, it is one of the most

curious things in the world. Here were divers tables of Pietra Commesso,

which is a marble ground inlaid with several sorts of marbles and stones

of various colors representing flowers, trees, beasts, birds, and

landscapes. In one is represented the town of Leghorn, by the same hand

who inlaid the altar of St. Laurence, Domenico Benotti, of whom I

purchased nineteen pieces of the same work for a cabinet. In a press near

this they showed an iron nail, one half whereof being converted into gold

by one Thurnheuser, a German chemist, is looked on as a great rarity; but

it plainly appeared to have been soldered together. There is a curious

watch, a monstrous turquoise as big as an egg, on which is carved an

emperor's head.

In the armory are kept many antique habits, as those of Chinese kings;

the sword of Charlemagne; Hannibal's headpiece; a loadstone of a yard

long, which bears up 86 lbs. weight, in a chain of seventeen links, such

as the slaves are tied to. In another room are such rare turneries in

ivory, as are not to be described for their curiosity. There is a fair

pillar of oriental alabaster; twelve vast and complete services of silver

plate, and one of gold, all of excellent workmanship; a rich embroidered

saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke; and here is that

embroidered chair set with precious stones in which he sits, when, on St.

John's day, he receives the tribute of the cities.

25th October, 1644. We went to the Portico where the famous statue of

Judith and Holofernes stands, also the Medusa, all of copper; but what is

most admirable is the Rape of a Sabine, with another man under foot, the

confusion and turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of one

entire marble, the work of John di Bologna, and is most stupendous; this

stands directly against the great piazza, where, to adorn one fountain,

are erected four marble statues and eight of brass, representing Neptune

and his family of sea gods, of a Colossean magnitude, with four sea

horses, in Parian marble of Lamedrati, in the midst of a very great

basin: a work, I think, hardly to be paralleled. Here is also the famous

statue of David, by M. Angelo; Hercules and Cacus, by Baccio Bandinelli;

the Perseus, in copper, by Benevento, and the Judith of Donatelli, which

stand publicly before the old Palace with the Centaur of Bologna, huge

Colossean figures. Near this stand Cosmo di Medicis on horseback, in

brass on a pedestal of marble, and four copper bassorelievos by John di

Bologna, with divers inscriptions; the Ferdinand the First, on horseback,

is of Pietro Tacca. The brazen boar, which serves for another public

fountain, is admirable.

After dinner, we went to the Church of the Annunciata, where the Duke and

his Court were at their devotions, being a place of extraordinary repute

for sanctity: for here is a shrine that does great miracles, [proved] by

innumerable votive tablets, etc., covering almost the walls of the whole

church. This is the image of Gabriel, who saluted the Blessed Virgin, and

which the artist finished so well, that he was in despair of performing

the Virgin's face so well; whereupon it was miraculously done for him

while he slept; but others say it was painted by St. Luke himself.

Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it. The altar

is set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted by thirty

great silver lamps. There are innumerable other pictures by rare masters.

Our Savior's Passion in brass tables inserted in marble, is the work of

John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli.

To this church joins a convent, whose cloister is painted in _fresco_

very rarely. There is also near it an hospital for 1,000 persons, with

nurse-children, and several other charitable accommodations.

At the Duke's Cavalerizza, the Prince has a stable of the finest horses

of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, etc., which are

continually exercised in the _manège_.

Near this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves, cats,

bears, tigers, and lions. They are loose in a deep walled court, and

therefore to be seen with more pleasure than those at the Tower of

London, in their grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height,

to catch a joint of mutton which I caused to be hung down.

[Sidenote: SIENNA]

[20]There are many plain brick towers erected for defense, when this was

a free state. The highest is called the Mangio, standing at the foot of

the piazza which we went first to see after our arrival. At the entrance

of this tower is a chapel open toward the piazza, of marble well adorned

with sculpture.

[Footnote 20: There seems to be here an omission in the MS. between

their leaving Florence and going to Sienna.]

On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice, well built _a la

moderna_, of brick; indeed the bricks of Sienna are so well made, that

they look almost as well as porphyry itself, having a kind of natural

polish.

In the Senate-house is a very fair Hall where they sometimes entertain

the people with public shows and operas, as they call them. Toward the

left are the statues of Romulus and Remus with the wolf, all of brass,

placed on a column of ophite stone, which they report was brought from

the renowned Ephesian Temple. These ensigns being the arms of the town,

are set up in divers of the streets and public ways both within and far

without the city.

The piazza compasses the facciáta of the court and chapel, and, being

made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop

shell. The white ranges of pavement, intermixed with the excellent bricks

above mentioned, with which the town is generally well paved, render it

very clean. About this market place (for so it is) are many fair palaces,

though not built with excess of elegance. There stands an arch, the work

of Baltazzar di Sienna, built with wonderful ingenuity, so that it is not

easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has some imperceptible

contiguations, which do not betray themselves easily to the eye. On the

edge of the piazza is a goodly fountain beautified with statues, the

water issuing out of the wolves' mouths, being the work of Jacobo

Quercei, a famous artist. There are divers other public fountains in the

city, of good design.

After this we walked to the Sapienza, which is the University, or rather

College, where the high Germans enjoy many particular privileges when

they addict themselves to the civil law: and indeed this place has

produced many excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alexander,

Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned Æneas Sylvius; and both

were of the ancient house of the Piccolomini.

The chief street is called Strada Romana, in which Pius II. has built a

most stately palace of square stone, with an incomparable portico

joining near to it. The town is commanded by a castle which hath four

bastions and a garrison of soldiers. Near it is a list to ride horses in,

much frequented by the gallants in summer.

Not far from hence is the Church and Convent of the Dominicans, where in

the chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna they show her head, the rest of her

body being translated to Rome. The Duomo, or Cathedral, both without and

within, is of large square stones of black and white marble polished, of

inexpressible beauty, as is the front adorned with sculpture and rare

statues. In the middle is a stately cupola and two columns of sundry

streaked colored marble. About the body of the church, on a cornice

within, are inserted the heads of all the Popes. The pulpit is beautified

with marble figures, a piece of exquisite work; but what exceeds all

description is the pavement, where (besides the various emblems and other

figures in the nave) the choir is wrought with the history of the Bible,

so artificially expressed in the natural colors of the marbles, that few

pictures exceed it. Here stands a Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on

the large high altar is a brazen vessel of admirable invention and art.

The organs are exceeding sweet and well tuned. On the left side of the

altar is the library, where are painted the acts of Æneas Sylvius, and

others by Raphael. They showed us an arm of St. John the Baptist,

wherewith, they say, he baptized our Savior in Jordan; it was given by

the King of Peloponnesus to one of the Popes, as an inscription

testifies. They have also St. Peter's sword, with which he smote off the

ear of Malchus.

Just against the cathedral, we went into the Hospital, where they

entertain and refresh for three or four days, gratis, such pilgrims as go

to Rome. In the chapel belonging to it lies the body of St. Susorius,

their founder, as yet uncorrupted, though dead many hundreds of years.

They show one of the nails which pierced our Savior, and Saint

Chrysostom's "Comment on the Gospel," written by his own hand. Below the

hill stands the pool called Fonte Brande, where fish are fed for pleasure

more than food.

St. Francis's Church is a large pile, near which, yet a little without

the city, grows a tree which they report in their legend grew from the

Saint's staff, which, on going to sleep, he fixed in the ground, and at

his waking found it had grown a large tree. They affirm that the wood of

it in decoction cures sundry diseases.

[Sidenote: TORRINIERI]

2d November, 1644. We went from Sienna, desirous of being present at the

cavalcade of the new Pope, Innocent X.,[21] who had not yet made the

grand procession to St. John di Laterano. We set out by Porto Romano, the

country all about the town being rare for hunting and game. Wild boar and

venison are frequently sold in the shops in many of the towns about it.

We passed near Monte Oliveto, where the monastery of that Order is

pleasantly situated, and worth seeing. Passing over a bridge, which, by

the inscription, appears to have been built by Prince Matthias, we went

through Buon-Convento, famous for the death of the Emperor, Henry VII.,

who was here poisoned with the Holy Eucharist. Thence, we came to

Torrinieri, where we dined. This village is in a sweet valley, in view of

Montalcino, famous for the rare Muscatello.[22] After three miles more,

we go by St. Quirico, and lay at a private osteria near it, where, after

we were provided of lodging, came in Cardinal Donghi, a Genoese by birth,

now come from Rome; he was so civil as to entertain us with great

respect, hearing we were English, for that, he told us he had been once

in our country. Among other discourse, he related how a dove had been

seen to sit on the chair in the Conclave at the election of Pope

Innocent, which he magnified as a great good omen, with other particulars

which we inquired of him, till our suppers parted us. He came in great

state with his own bedstead and all the furniture, yet would by no means

suffer us to resign the room we had taken up in the lodging before his

arrival. Next morning, we rode by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called,

Monte Mantumiato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon peeping

above any clouds with its snowy head, till we had climbed to the inn at

Radicofani, built by Ferdinand, the great Duke, for the necessary

refreshment of travelers in so inhospitable a place. As we ascended, we

entered a very thick, solid, and dark body of clouds, looking like rocks

at a little distance, which lasted near a mile in going up; they were dry

misty vapors, hanging undissolved for a vast thickness, and obscuring

both the sun and earth, so that we seemed to be in the sea rather than in

the clouds, till, having pierced through it, we came into a most serene

heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation, the mountain

appearing more like a great island than joined to any other hills; for we

could perceive nothing but a sea of thick clouds rolling under our feet

like huge waves, every now and then suffering the top of some other

mountain to peep through, which we could discover many miles off: and

between some breaches of the clouds we could see landscapes and villages

of the subjacent country. This was one of the most pleasant, new, and

altogether surprising objects that I had ever beheld.

[Footnote 21: John Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in October, 1644,

died in 1655.]

[Footnote 22: The wine so called.]

On the summit of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a very strong

fort, garrisoned, and somewhat beneath it is a small town; the provisions

are drawn up with ropes and engines, the precipice being otherwise

inaccessible. At one end of the town lie heaps of rocks so strangely

broken off from the ragged mountain, as would affright one with their

horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the inn gushed out a

plentiful and most useful fountain which falls into a great trough of

stone, bearing the Duke of Tuscany's arms. Here we dined, and I with my

black lead pen took the prospect. It is one of the utmost confines of the

Etrurian State toward St. Peter's Patrimony, since the gift of Matilda to

Gregory VII., as is pretended.

Here we pass a stone bridge, built by Pope Gregory XIV., and thence

immediately to Acquapendente, a town situated on a very ragged rock, down

which precipitates an entire river (which gives it the denomination),

with a most horrid roaring noise. We lay at the posthouse, on which is

this inscription:

"_L'Insegna della Posta, é posta a posta,

In questa posta, fin che habbia à sua posta

Ogn'un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta._"

Before it was dark, we went to see the Monastery of the Franciscans,

famous for six learned Popes, and sundry other great scholars, especially

the renowned physician and anatomist, Fabricius de Acquapendente, who was

bred and born there.

4th November, 1644. After a little riding, we descended toward the Lake

of Bolsena, which being above twenty miles in circuit, yields from hence

a most incomparable prospect. Near the middle of it are two small

islands, in one of which is a convent of melancholy Capuchins, where

those of the Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it _Tarquiniensis

Lacus_, and talks of divers floating islands about it, but they did not

appear to us. The lake is environed with mountains, at one of whose sides

we passed toward the town Bolsena, anciently Volsinium, famous in those

times, as is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St.

Christiana's church, the urn, altar, and jasper columns.

After seven miles' riding, passing through a wood heretofore sacred to

Juno, we came to Montefiascone, the head of the Falisci, a famous people

in old time, and heretofore Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine,

as now for the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lies buried in St.

Flavian's church with this epitaph:

"_Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est._"

Because, having ordered his servant to ride before, and inquire where the

best wine was, and there write _Est_, the man found some so good that he

wrote _Est, Est_, upon the vessels, and the Bishop drinking too much of

it, died.

[Sidenote: VITERBO]

From Montefiascone, we travel a plain and pleasant champaign to Viterbo,

which presents itself with much state afar off, in regard of her many

lofty pinnacles and towers; neither does it deceive our expectation; for

it is exceedingly beautified with public fountains, especially that at

the entrance, which is all of brass and adorned with many rare figures,

and salutes the passenger with a most agreeable object and refreshing

waters. There are many Popes buried in this city, and in the palace is

this odd inscription:

"_Osiridis victoriam in Gigantas litteris historiographicis in hoc

antiquissimo marmore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi

Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversanda: vetustiss: patriæ

monumenta atq' decora his locandum statuit S.P.Q.V._"

Under it:

"_Sum Osiris Rex Jupiter universo in terrarum orbe._"

"_Sum Osiris Rex qui ab Itala in Gigantes exercitus veni, vidi, et

vici._"

"_Sum Osiris Rex qui terrarum pacata Italiam decem a'nos quorum

inventor fui._"

Near the town is a sulphurous fountain, which continually boils. After

dinner we took horse by the new way of Capranica, and so passing near

Mount Ciminus and the Lake, we began to enter the plains of Rome; at

which sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, but soon allayed by so

violent a shower, which fell just as we were contemplating that proud

Mistress of the world, and descending by the Vatican (for at that gate we

entered), that before we got into the city I was wet to the skin.

[Sidenote: ROME]

I came to Rome on the 4th of November, 1644, about five at night; and

being perplexed for a convenient lodging, wandered up and down on

horseback, till at last one conducted us to Monsieur Petit's, a

Frenchman, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and, having

bargained with my host for twenty crowns a month, I caused a good fire to

be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so very wet. The next

morning (for I was resolved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted

with several persons who had long lived at Rome. I was especially

recommended to Father John, a Benedictine monk and Superior of his Order

for the English College of Douay, a person of singular learning,

religion, and humanity; also to Mr. Patrick Cary, an Abbot, brother to

our learned Lord Falkland, a witty young priest, who afterward came over

to our church; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs, physicians who had dependence on

Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excellent poet; Father Courtney, the

chief of the Jesuits in the English College; my Lord of Somerset, brother

to the Marquis of Worcester; and some others, from whom I received

instructions how to behave in town, with directions to masters and books

to take in search of the antiquities, churches, collections, etc.

Accordingly, the next day, November 6th, I began to be very

pragmatical.[23]

[Footnote 23: The sense in which Evelyn uses this word is that of

its old signification, as being very active and full of business,

setting to work systematically with what he came upon, namely, to

view the antiquities and beauties of Rome.]

In the first place, our sights-man (for so they name certain persons here

who get their living by leading strangers about to see the city) went to

the Palace Farnese, a magnificent square structure, built by Michael

Angelo, of the three orders of columns after the ancient manner, and when

architecture was but newly recovered from the Gothic barbarity. The court

is square and terraced, having two pairs of stairs which lead to the

upper rooms, and conducted us to that famous gallery painted by Augustine

Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art; so deep and

well-studied are all the figures, that it would require more judgment

than I confess I had, to determine whether they were flat, or embossed.

Thence, we passed into another, painted in chiaroscúro, representing the

fabulous history of Hercules. We went out on a terrace, where was a

pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in a place that has no extent

of ground backward. The great hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo,

furnished with statues, one of which being modern is the figure of a

Farnese, in a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy of admiration.

Here we were shown the Museum of Fulvius Ursinos, replete with

innumerable collections; but the Major-Domo being absent, we could not at

this time see all we wished. Descending into the court, we with

astonishment contemplated those two incomparable statues of Hercules and

Flora, so much celebrated by Pliny, and indeed by all antiquity, as two

of the most rare pieces in the world; there likewise stands a modern

statue of Hercules and two Gladiators, not to be despised. In a second

court was a temporary shelter of boards over the most stupendous and

never-to-be-sufficiently-admired Torso of Amphion and Dirce, represented

in five figures, exceeding the life in magnitude, of the purest white

marble, the contending work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and

Taurisco, in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire stone, and

remaining unblemished, to be valued beyond all the marbles of the world

for its antiquity and workmanship. There are divers other heads and

busts. At the entrance of this stately palace stand two rare and vast

fountains of garnito stone, brought into this piazza out of Titus's

Baths. Here, in summer, the gentlemen of Rome take the FRESCO in their

coaches and on foot. At the sides of this court, we visited the palace

of Signor Pichini, who has a good collection of antiquities, especially

the Adonis of Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel would once have

purchased, if a great price would have been taken for it.

We went into the CAMPO VACCINO, by the ruins of the Temple of Peace,

built by Titus Vespasianus, and thought to be the largest as well as the

most richly furnished of all the Roman dedicated places: it is now a heap

rather than a temple, yet the roof and _volto_ continue firm, showing it

to have been formerly of incomparable workmanship. This goodly structure

was, none knows how, consumed by fire the very night, by all computation,

that our blessed Savior was born.

From hence we passed by the place into which Curtius precipitated himself

for the love of his country, now without any sign of a lake, or vorago.

Near this stand some columns of white marble, of exquisite work, supposed

to be part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, built by Augustus; the work

of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave is excellent, full of

sacrificing utensils. There are three other of Jupiter Stator. Opposite

to these are the oratories, or churches, of St. Cosmo and Damiano,

heretofore the Temples of Romulus; a pretty old fabric, with a tribunal,

or tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. The gates before it are brass,

and the whole much obliged to Pope Urban VIII. In this sacred place lie

the bodies of those two martyrs; and in a chapel on the right hand is a

rare painting of Cavaliere Baglioni.

We next entered St. Lorenzo in Miranda. The portico is supported by a

range of most stately columns; the inscription cut in the architrave

shows it to have been the Temple of Faustina. It is now made a fair

church, and has an hospital which joins it. On the same side is St.

Adriano, heretofore dedicated to Saturn. Before this was once placed a

military column, supposed to be set in the center of the city, from

whence they used to compute the distance of all the cities and places of

note under the dominion of those universal monarchs. To this church are

likewise brazen gates and a noble front; just opposite we saw the heaps

and ruins of Cicero's palace. Hence we went toward Mons Capitolinus, at

the foot of which stands the arch of Septimus Severus, full and entire,

save where the pedestal and some of the lower members are choked up with

ruins and earth. This arch is exceedingly enriched with sculpture and

trophies, with a large inscription. In the terrestrial and naval battles

here graven, is seen the Roman Aries (the battering-ram); and this was

the first triumphal arch set up in Rome. The Capitol, to which we climbed

by very broad steps, is built about a square court, at the right hand of

which, going up from Campo Vaccino, gushes a plentiful stream from the

statue of Tiber, in porphyry, very antique, and another representing

Rome; but, above all, is the admirable figure of Marforius, casting water

into a most ample concha. The front of this court is crowned with an

excellent fabric containing the Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal

Notary sits, and others. In one of the halls they show the statues of

Gregory XIII. and Paul III., with several others. To this joins a

handsome tower, the whole faciata adorned with noble statues, both on the

outside and on the battlements, ascended by a double pair of stairs, and

a stately Posario.

In the center of the court stands that incomparable horse bearing the

Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of Corinthian metal, placed

on a pedestal of marble, esteemed one of the noblest pieces of work now

extant, antique and very rare. There is also a vast head of a colossean

magnitude, of white marble, fixed in the wall. At the descending stairs

are set two horses of white marble governed by two naked slaves, taken to

be Castor and Pollux, brought from Pompey's Theatre. On the balustrade,

the trophies of Marius against the Cimbrians, very ancient and

instructive. At the foot of the steps toward the left hand is that

Colonna Miliaria, with the globe of brass on it, mentioned to have been

formerly set in Campo Vaccino. On the same hand, is the palace of the

Signiori Conservatori, or three Consuls, now the civil governors of the

city, containing the fraternities, or halls and guilds (as we call them),

of sundry companies, and other offices of state. Under the portico

within, are the statues of Augustus Cæsar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned

Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi-relievi. In a

smaller court, the statue of Constantine, on a fountain, a Minerva's head

of brass, and that of Commodus, to which belongs a hand, the thumb

whereof is at least an ell long, and yet proportionable; but the rest of

the _colosse_ is lost. In the corner of this court stand a horse and lion

fighting, as big as life, in white marble, exceedingly valued; likewise

the Rape of the Sabines; two cumbent figures of Alexander and Mammea; two

monstrous feet of a _colosse_ of Apollo; the Sepulchre of Agrippina; and

the standard, or antique measure of the Roman foot. Ascending by the

steps of the other corner, are inserted four basso-relievos, viz, the

triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which last, for the antiquity

and rareness of the work, I caused my painter, Carlo Neapolitano, to

copy. There are also two statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian, the

Emperor; above stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Marsyas bound

to a tree; all of them excellent and antique. Above in the lobby are

inserted into the walls those ancient laws, on brass, called the Twelve

Tables; a fair Madonna of Pietro Perugino, painted on the wall; near

which are the archives, full of ancient records.

In the great hall are divers excellent paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe

d'Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V. and of Leo X., of marble. In

another hall are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors,

set about with fine antique heads; others are painted by excellent

masters, representing the actions of M. Scævola, Horatius Cocles, etc.

The room where the Conservatori now feast upon solemn days, is tapestried

with crimson damask, embroidered with gold, having a state or

_balduquino_ of crimson velvet, very rich; the frieze above rarely

painted. Here are in brass, Romulus and Remus sucking the wolf, of brass,

with the Shepherd, Faustulus, by them; also the boy plucking the thorn

out of his foot, of brass, so much admired by artists. There are also

holy statues and heads of Saints. In a gallery near adjoining are the

names of the ancient Consuls, Prætors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by

the learned; also the figure of an old woman; two others representing

Poverty; and more in fragments. In another large room, furnished with

velvet, are the statue of Adonis, very rare, and divers antique heads. In

the next chamber, is an old statue of Cicero, one of another Consul, a

Hercules in brass, two women's heads of incomparable work, six other

statues; and, over the chimney, a very rare basso-relievo, and other

figures. In a little lobby before the chapel, is the statue of Hannibal,

a Bacchus very antique, _bustoes_ of Pan and Mercury, with other old

heads. All these noble statues, etc., belong to the city, and cannot be

disposed of to any private person, or removed hence, but are preserved

for the honor of the place, though great sums have been offered for them

by divers Princes, lovers of art, and antiquity. We now left the Capitol,

certainly one of the most renowned places in the world, even as now built

by the design of the famous M. Angelo.

Returning home by Ara Coeli, we mounted to it by more than 100 marble

steps, not in devotion, as I observed some to do on their bare knees, but

to see those two famous statues of Constantine, in white marble, placed

there out of his baths. In this church is a Madonna, reported to be

painted by St. Luke, and a column, on which we saw the print of a foot,

which they affirm to have been that of the Angel, seen on the Castle of

St. Angelo. Here the feast of our Blessed Savior's nativity being yearly

celebrated with divers pageants, they began to make the preparation.

Having viewed the Palace and fountain, at the other side of the stairs,

we returned weary to our lodgings.

On the 7th of November, we went again near the Capitol, toward the

Tarpeian rock, where it has a goodly prospect of the Tiber. Thence,

descending by the Tullianum, where they told us St. Peter was imprisoned,

they showed us a chapel (S. Pietro de Vincoli) in which a rocky side of

it bears the impression of his face. In the nave of the church gushes a

fountain, which they say was caused by the Apostle's prayers, when having

converted some of his fellow-captives he wanted water to make them

Christians. The painting of the Ascension is by Raphael. We then walked

about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, and thence to the Circus Maximus,

capable of holding 40,000 spectators, now a heap of ruins, converted into

gardens. Then by the _Forum Boarium_, where they have a tradition that

Hercules slew Cacus, some ruins of his temple remaining. The Temple of

Janus Quadrifrons, having four arches, importing the four Seasons, and on

each side niches for the months, is still a substantial and pretty entire

antiquity. Near to this is the Arcus Argentariorum. Bending now toward

the Tiber, we went into the Theater of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000

persons, built by Augustus, and dedicated to his nephew; the

architecture, from what remains, appears to be inferior to none. It is

now wholly converted into the house of the Savelli, one of the old Roman

families. The people were now generally busy in erecting temporary

triumphs and arches with statues and flattering inscriptions against his

Holiness's grand procession to St. John di Laterani, among which the Jews

also began one in testimony of gratitude for their protection under the

Papal State. The Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's

architect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely an

object, as any modern building in Europe. It has a double portico, at the

end of which we ascended by two pair of oval stairs, all of stone, and

void in the well. One of these led us into a stately hall, the _volto_

whereof was newly painted _á fresco_, by the rare hand of Pietro

Berretini il Cortone. To this is annexed a gallery completely furnished

with whatever art can call rare and singular, and a library full of

worthy collections, medals, marbles, and manuscripts; but, above all, an

Egyptian Osiris, remarkable for its unknown material and antiquity. In

one of the rooms near this hangs the Sposaliccio of St. Sebastian, the

original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a copy, little inferior

to the prototype; a table, in my judgment, superior to anything I had

seen in Rome. In the court is a vast broken guglia, or obelisk, having

divers hieroglyphics cut on it.

8th November, 1644. We visited the Jesuits' Church, the front whereof is

esteemed a noble piece of architecture, the design of Jacomo della Porta

and the famous Vignola. In this church lies the body of their renowned

Ignatius Loyola, an arm of Xaverius, their other Apostle; and, at the

right end of their high altar, their champion, Cardinal Bellarmine. Here

Father Kircher (professor of Mathematics and the oriental tongues) showed

us many singular courtesies, leading us into their refectory,

dispensatory, laboratory, gardens, and finally (through a hall hung round

with pictures of such of their order as had been executed for their

pragmatical and busy adventures) into his own study, where, with Dutch

patience, he showed us his perpetual motions, catoptrics, magnetical

experiments, models, and a thousand other crotchets and devices, most of

them since published by himself, or his industrious scholar, Schotti.

Returning home, we had time to view the Palazzo de Medicis, which was an

house of the Duke of Florence near our lodging, upon the brow of Mons

Pincius, having a fine prospect toward the Campo Marzo. It is a

magnificent, strong building, with a substruction very remarkable, and a

portico supported with columns toward the gardens, with two huge lions,

of marble, at the end of the balustrade. The whole outside of the

_facciata_ is incrusted with antique and rare basso-relievos and statues.

Descending into the garden is a noble fountain governed by a Mercury of

brass. At a little distance, on the left, is a lodge full of fine

statues, among which the Sabines, antique and singularly rare. In the

arcade near this stand twenty-four statues of great price, and hard by is

a mount planted with cypresses, representing a fortress, with a goodly

fountain in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with white marble,

covered over with the natural shrubs, ivy, and other perennial greens,

divers statues and heads being placed as in niches. At a little distance

are those famed statues of Niobe and her family, in all fifteen, as large

as the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, esteemed among the

best pieces of work in the world for the passions they express, and all

other perfections of that stupendous art. There is likewise in this

garden a fair obelisk, full of hieroglyphics. In going out, the fountain

before the front casts water near fifty feet in height, when it is

received in a most ample marble basin. Here they usually rode the great

horse every morning; which gave me much diversion from the terrace of my

own chamber, where I could see all their motions. This evening, I was

invited to hear rare music at the Chiesa Nova; the black marble pillars

within led us to that most precious oratory of Philippus Nerius, their

founder; they being of the oratory of secular priests, under no vow.

There are in it divers good pictures, as the Assumption of Girolamo

Mutiano; the Crucifix; the Visitation of Elizabeth; the Presentation of

the Blessed Virgin; Christo Sepolto, of Guido Rheno, Caravaggio, Arpino,

and others. This fair church consists of fourteen altars, and as many

chapels. In it is buried (besides their Saint) Cæsar Baronius, the great

annalist. Through this, we went into the _sacristia_, where, the tapers

being lighted, one of the Order preached; after him stepped up a child of

eight or nine years old, who pronounced an oration with so much grace,

that I never was better pleased than to hear Italian so well and so

intelligently spoken. This course it seems they frequently use, to bring

their scholars to a habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their

action and assurance, which none so much want as ours in England. This

being finished, began their _motettos_, which in a lofty cupola richly

painted, were sung by eunuchs, and other rare voices, accompanied by

theorbos, harpsichords, and viols, so that we were even ravished with the

entertainment of the evening. This room is painted by Cortona, and has in

it two figures in the niches, and the church stands in one of the most

stately streets of Rome.

10th November, 1644. We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa, where was

formerly the _Viridarium_ of the poet, Sallust. The house is very

magnificent, and the extent of the ground exceedingly large, considering

that it is in a city; in every quarter of the garden are antique statues,

and walks planted with cypress. To this garden belongs a house of

retirement, built in the figure of a cross, after a particular

ordonnance, especially the staircase. The whiteness and smoothness of the

excellent pargeting was a thing I much observed, being almost as even and

polished, as if it had been of marble. Above, is a fair prospect of the

city. In one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of Bassano, the one a

Vulcan, the other a Nativity; there is a German clock full of rare and

extraordinary motions; and, in a little room below are many precious

marbles, columns, urns, vases, and noble statues of porphyry, oriental

alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabric is an ample area,

environed with sixteen vast jars of red earth, wherein the Romans used to

preserve their oil, or wine rather, which they buried, and such as are

properly called _testæ_. In the Palace I must never forget the famous

statue of the Gladiator, spoken of by Pliny, so much followed by all the

rare artists as the many copies testify, dispersed through almost all

Europe, both in stone and metal. There is also a Hercules, a head of

porphyry, and one of Marcus Aurelius. In the villa-house is a man's body

flesh and all, petrified, and even converted to marble, as it was found

in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to one of the Popes; it lay in a

chest, or coffin, lined with black velvet, and one of the arms being

broken, you may see the perfect bone from the flesh which remains entire.

The Rape of Proserpine, in marble, is of the purest white, the work of

Bernini. In the cabinet near it are innumerable small brass figures, and

other curiosities. But what some look upon as exceeding all the rest, is

a very rich bedstead (which sort of gross furniture the Italians much

glory in, as formerly did our grandfathers in England in their inlaid

wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of precious stones and antique heads,

onyxes, agates, and cornelians, esteemed to be worth 80 or 90,000 crowns.

Here are also divers cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides

pictures in the gallery, especially the Apollo--a conceited chair to

sleep in with the legs stretched out, with hooks, and pieces of wood to

draw out longer or shorter.

From this villa, we went to see Signor Angeloni's study, who very

courteously showed us such a collection of rare medals as is hardly to be

paralleled; divers good pictures, and many outlandish and Indian

curiosities, and things of nature.

From him, we walked to Monte Cavallo, heretofore called Mons Quirinalis,

where we saw those two rare horses, the work of the rivals Phidias and

Praxiteles, as they were sent to Nero (by Tiridates King) out of Armenia.

They were placed on pedestals of white marble by Sextus V., by whom I

suppose their injuries were repaired, and are governed by four naked

slaves, like those at the foot of the Capitol. Here runs a most noble

fountain, regarding four of the most stately streets for building and

beauty to be seen in any city of Europe. Opposite to these statues is the

Pope's summer palace, built by Gregory XIII.; and, in my opinion, it is,

for largeness and the architecture, one of the most conspicuous in Rome,

having a stately portico which leads round the court under columns, in

the centre of which there runs a beautiful fountain. The chapel is

incrusted with such precious materials, that nothing can be more rich,

or glorious, nor are the other ornaments and movables about it at all

inferior. The hall is painted by Lanfranci, and others. The garden, which

is called the Belvedere di Monte Cavallo, in emulation of that of the

Vatican, is most excellent for air and prospect; its exquisite fountains,

close walks, grots, piscinas, or stews for fish, planted about with

venerable cypresses, and refreshed with water-music, aviaries, and other

rarities.

12th November, 1644. We saw Dioclesian's Baths, whose ruins testify the

vastness of the original foundation and magnificence; by what M. Angelo

took from the ornaments about it, 'tis said he restored the then almost

lost art of architecture. This monstrous pile was built by the labor of

the primitive Christians, then under one of the ten great persecutions.

The Church of St. Bernardo is made out of one only of these ruinous

cupolas, and is in the form of an urn with a cover.

Opposite to this, is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise called _Fons

Felix_; in it is a basso-relievo of white marble, representing Moses

striking the rock, which is adorned with camels, men, women, and children

drinking, as large as life; a work for the design and vastness truly

magnificent. The water is conveyed no less than twenty-two miles in an

aqueduct by Sextus V., _ex agro Columna_, by way of Præneste, as the

inscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavers raised about

with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black stone,

very rare and antique. Near this are the store-houses for the city's

corn, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna, where were the

gardens of Sallust. The faciàta of this church is noble, the _soffito_

within gilded and full of pictures; especially famous is that of Susanna,

by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is of exquisite

work, from whose marble steps you descend under ground to the repository

of divers Saints. The picture over this altar is the work of Jacomo

Siciliano. The foundation is for Bernadine Nuns.

Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most ravishing front. In

this church was sung the Te Deum by Gregory XV., after the signal victory

of the Emperor at Prague; the standards then taken still hang up, and the

impress waving this motto over the Pope's arms, _Extirpentur_. I

observed that the high altar was much frequented for an image of the

Virgin. It has some rare statues, as Paul ravished into the third heaven,

by Fiamingo, and some good pictures. From this, we bent toward

Dioclesian's Baths, never satisfied with contemplating that immense pile,

in building which 150,000 Christians were destined to labor fourteen

years, and were then all murdered. Here is a monastery of Carthusians,

called Santa Maria degli Angeli, the architecture of M. Angelo, and the

cloister encompassing walls in an ample garden.

Mont Alto's villa is entered by a stately gate of stone built on the

Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious park full of fountains,

especially that which salutes us at the front; stews for fish; the

cypress walks are so beset with statues, inscriptions, relievos, and

other ancient marbles, that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The

citron trees are uncommonly large. In the palace joining to it are

innumerable collections of value. Returning, we stepped into St. Agnes

church, where there is a tribunal of antique mosaic, and on the altar a

most rich ciborio of brass, with a statue of St. Agnes in oriental

alabaster. The church of Santa Constanza has a noble cupola. Here they

showed us a stone ship borne on a column heretofore sacred to Bacchus, as

the relievo intimates by the drunken emblems and instruments wrought upon

it. The altar is of rich porphyry, as I remember. Looking back, we had

the entire view of the Via Pia down to the two horses before the Monte

Cavallo, before mentioned, one of the most glorious sights for state and

magnificence that any city can show a traveler. We returned by Porta Pia,

and the Via Salaria, near Campo Scelerato, in whose gloomy caves the

wanton Vestals were heretofore immured alive.

Thence to Via Felix, a straight and noble street but very precipitous,

till we came to the four fountains of Lepidus, built at the abutments of

four stately ways, making an exact cross of right angles; and, at the

fountains, are as many cumbent figures of marble, under very large niches

of stone, the water pouring into huge basins. The church of St. Carlo is

a singular fabric for neatness, of an oval design, built of a new white

stone; the columns are worth notice. Under it is another church of a

structure nothing less admirable.

Next, we came to Santa Maria Maggiore, built upon the Esqueline Mountain,

which gives it a most conspicuous face to the street at a great distance.

The design is mixed partly antique, partly modern. Here they affirm that

the Blessed Virgin appearing, showed where it should be built 300 years

since. The first pavement is rare and antique; so is the portico built by

P. P. Eugenius II. The _ciborio_ is the work of Paris Romano, and the

tribunal of Mosaic.

We were showed in the church a _concha_ of porphyry, wherein they say

Patricius, the founder, lies. This is one of the most famous of the seven

Roman Churches, and is, in my opinion at least, after St. Peter's, the

most magnificent. Above all, for incomparable glory and materials, are

the two chapels of Sextus V. and Paulus V. That of Sextus was designed by

Dom. Fontana, in which are two rare great statues, and some good pieces

of painting; and here they pretended to show some of the Holy Innocents'

bodies slain by Herod: as also that renowned tabernacle of metal, gilt,

sustained by four angels, holding as many tapers, placed on the altar. In

this chapel is the statue of Sextus, in copper, with basso-relievos of

most of his famous acts, in Parian marble; but that of P. Paulus, which

we next entered, opposite to this, is beyond all imagination glorious,

and above description. It is so encircled with agates, and other most

precious materials, as to dazzle and confound the beholders. The

basso-relievos are for the most part of pure snowy marble, intermixed

with figures of molten brass, double gilt, on _lapis lazuli_. The altar

is a most stupendous piece; but most incomparable is the cupola painted

by Giuseppe Rheni, and the present Baglioni, full of exquisite

sculptures. There is a most sumptuous _sacristia_; and the piece over the

altar was by the hand of St. Luke; if you will believe it. Paulus V. hath

here likewise built two other altars; under the one lie the bones of the

Apostle, St. Matthias. In another oratory, is the statue of this Pope,

and the head of the Congo Ambassador, who was converted at Rome, and died

here. In a third chapel, designed by Michael Angelo, lie the bodies of

Platina, and the Cardinal of Toledo, Honorius III., Nicephorus IV., the

ashes of St. Hierom, and many others. In that of Sextus V., before

mentioned, was showed us part of the crib in which Christ was swaddled

at Bethlehem; there is also the statue of Pius V.; and going out at the

further end, is the resurrection of Lazarus, by a very rare hand. In the

portico, is this late inscription: "_Cardinal Antonio Barberino

Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam Christianorum pietas exsculpsit,

laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesiâ, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior,

Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani è suis ædibus huc transtulit et

ornavit, 1632_." Just before this portico, stands a very sublime and

stately Corinthian column, of white marble, translated hither for an

ornament from the old Temple of Peace, built by Vespasian, having on the

plinth of the capital the image of our Lady, gilt on metal; at the

pedestal runs a fountain. Going down the hill, we saw the obelisk taken

from the Mausoleum of Augustus, and erected in this place by Domenico

Fontana, with this epigraph: "_Sextus V. Pont. Max. Obeliscum ex Egypto

advectum, Augusti in Mausoleo dicatum, eversum deinde et in plures

confractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam faciem

restitutum Salutiferæ Cruci feliciùs hic erigi jussit, anno MDLXXXVIII,

Pont. III_"; and so we came weary to our lodgings.

At the foot of this hill, is the church of St. Prudentia, in which is a

well, filled with the blood and bones of several martyrs, but grated over

with iron, and visited by many devotees. Near this stands the church of

her sister, S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a

little obscure place, canceled in with iron work, is the pillar, or

stump, at which they relate our Blessed Savior was scourged, being full

of bloody spots, at which the devout sex are always rubbing their

chaplets, and convey their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here,

besides a noble statue of St. Peter, is the tomb of the famous Cardinal

Cajetan, an excellent piece; and here they hold that St. Peter said his

first mass at Rome, with the same altar and the stone he kneeled on, he

having been first lodged in this house, as they compute about the

forty-fourth year of the Incarnation. They also show many relics, or

rather rags, of his mantle. St. Laurence in Panisperna did next invite

us, where that martyr was cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet

remaining. St. Bridget is buried in this church under a stately monument.

In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence painted _á

fresco_ on the wall. The fabric is nothing but Gothic. On the left is the

Therma Novatii; and, on the right, Agrippina's Lavacrum.

14th November, 1644. We passed again through the stately Capitol and

Campo Vaccino toward the Amphitheater of Vespasian, but first stayed to

look at Titus's Triumphal Arch, erected by the people of Rome, in honor

of his victory at Jerusalem; on the left hand whereof he is represented

drawn in a chariot with four horses abreast; on the right hand, or side

of the arch within, is sculptured in figures, or basso-relievo as big as

the life (and in one entire marble) the Ark of the Covenant, on which

stands the seven-branched candlestick described in Leviticus, as also the

two Tables of the Law, all borne on men's shoulders by the bars, as they

are described in some of St. Hierom's bibles; before this, go many

crowned and laureated figures, and twelve Roman _fasces_ with other

sacred vessels. This much confirmed the idea I before had; and therefore,

for the light it gave to the Holy History, I caused my painter, Carlo, to

copy it exactly. The rest of the work of the Arch is of the noblest, best

understood _composita_; and the inscription is this, in capital letters:

S. P. Q. R.

D. TITO, D. VESPASIANI, F. VESPASIANI AVGVSTO.

Santa Maria Nova is on the place where they told us Simon Magus fell out

of the air at St. Peter's prayer, and burst himself to pieces on a flint.

Near this is a marble monument, erected by the people of Rome in memory

of the Pope's return from Avignon. Being now passed the ruins of

Meta-Sudante (which stood before the Colosseum, so called, because there

once stood here the statue of Commodus provided to refresh the

gladiators), we enter the mighty ruins of the Vespasian Amphitheatre,

begun by Vespasian, and finished by that excellent prince, Titus. It is

830 Roman palms in length (_i.e._ 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area,

with caves for the wild beasts which used to be baited by men instead of

dogs; the whole oval periphery 2888-4/7 palms, and capable of containing

87,000 spectators with ease and all accommodation: the three rows of

circles are yet entire; the first was for the senators, the middle for

the nobility, the third for the people. At the dedication of this place

were 5,000 wild beasts slain in three months during which the feast

lasted, to the expense of ten millions of gold. It was built of Tiburtine

stone, a vast height, with the five orders of architecture, by 30,000

captive Jews. It is without, of a perfect circle, and was once adorned

thick with statues, and remained entire, till of late that some of the

stones were carried away to repair the city walls and build the Farnesian

palace. That which still appears most admirable is, the contrivance of

the porticos, vaults, and stairs, with the excessive altitude, which well

deserves this distich of the poet:

"_Omnis Cæsareo cedat labor Amphitheatro;

Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus._"

Near it is a small chapel called Santa Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo,

which is erected on the steps, or stages, very lofty at one of its sides,

or ranges, within, and where there lives only a melancholy hermit. I

ascended to the very top of it with wonderful admiration.

The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta-Sudante, before

mentioned, at the beginning of the Via Appia, on one side Monte Celio,

and is perfectly entire, erected by the people in memory of his victory

over Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole. In the front is this

inscription:

IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO

P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. Q. R.

QVOD INSTINCTV DIVINITATIS MENTIS

MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO

TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS

FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS

REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS

ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT.

Hence, we went to St. Gregorio, in Monte Celio, where are many privileged

altars, and there they showed us an arm of that saint, and other relics.

Before this church stands a very noble portico.

15th November, 1644. Was very wet, and I stirred not out, and the 16th I

went to visit Father John, Provincial of the Benedictines.

17th November, 1644. I walked to Villa Borghese, a house and ample garden

on Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the city walls, circumscribed by

another wall full of small turrets and banqueting-houses; which makes it

appear at a distance like a little town. Within it is an elysium of

delight, having in the centre of it a noble palace; but the entrance of

the garden presents us with a very glorious fabric, or rather door-case,

adorned with divers excellent marble statues. This garden abounded with

all sorts of delicious fruit and exotic simples, fountains of sundry

inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also adjoining to it a

vivarium for ostriches, peacocks, swans, cranes, etc., and divers strange

beasts, deer, and hares. The grotto is very rare, and represents, among

other devices, artificial rain, and sundry shapes of vessels, flowers,

etc.; which is effected by changing the heads of the fountains. The

groves are of cypress, laurel, pine, myrtle, and olive. The four sphinxes

are very antique, and worthy observation. To this is a volary, full of

curious birds. The house is square with turrets, from which the prospect

is excellent toward Rome, and the environing hills, covered as they now

are with snow, which indeed commonly continues even a great part of the

summer, affording sweet refreshment. Round the house is a baluster of

white marble, with frequent jettos of water, and adorned with a multitude

of statues. The walls of the house are covered with antique incrustations

of history, as that of Curtius, the Rape of Europa, Leda, etc. The

cornices above consist of fruitages and festoons, between which are

niches furnished with statues, which order is observed to the very roof.

In the lodge, at the entry, are divers good statues of Consuls, etc.,

with two pieces of field artillery upon carriages, (a mode much practiced

in Italy before the great men's houses) which they look on as a piece of

state more than defense. In the first hall within, are the twelve Roman

Emperors, of excellent marble; between them stand porphyry columns, and

other precious stones of vast height and magnitude, with urns of oriental

alabaster. Tables of pietra-commessa: and here is that renowned Diana

which Pompey worshiped, of eastern marble: the most incomparable Seneca

of touch, bleeding in an huge vase of porphyry, resembling the drops of

his blood; the so famous Gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon a quilt of

stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, of Cavaliero Bernini, is

observable for the pure whiteness of the stone, and the art of the

statuary plainly stupendous. There is a multitude of rare pictures of

infinite value, by the best masters; huge tables of porphyry, and two

exquisitely wrought vases of the same. In another chamber, are divers

sorts of instruments of music: among other toys that of a satyr, which so

artificially expressed a human voice, with the motion of eyes and head,

that it might easily afright one who was not prepared for that most

extravagant sight. They showed us also a chair that catches fast any one

who sits down in it, so as not to be able to stir out, by certain springs

concealed in the arms and back thereof, which at sitting down surprises a

man on the sudden, locking him in by the arms and thighs, after a true

treacherous Italian guise. The perspective is also considerable, composed

by the position of looking-glasses, which render a strange multiplication

of things resembling divers most richly furnished rooms. Here stands a

rare clock of German work; in a word, nothing but what is magnificent is

to be seen in this Paradise.

The next day, I went to the Vatican, where, in the morning, I saw the

ceremony of Pamfilio, the Pope's nephew, receiving a Cardinal's hat; this

was the first time I had seen his Holiness _in pontificalibus_. After the

Cardinals and Princes had met in the consistory, the ceremony was in the

Pope's chapel, where he was at the altar invested with most pompous

rites.

19th November, 1644. I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendous and

incomparable Basilica, far surpassing any now extant in the world, and

perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any that was ever built. The

largeness of the piazza before the portico is worth observing, because it

affords a noble prospect of the church, not crowded up, as for the most

part is the case in other places where great churches are erected. In

this is a fountain, out of which gushes a river rather than a stream

which, ascending a good height, breaks upon a round emboss of marble into

millions of pearls that fall into the subjacent basins with great noise;

I esteem this one of the goodliest fountains I ever saw.

Next is the obelisk transported out of Egypt, and dedicated by Octavius

Augustus to Julius Cæsar, whose ashes it formerly bore on the summit;

but, being since overturned by the barbarians, was re-erected with vast

cost and a most stupendous invention by Domenico Fontana, architect to

Sextus V. The obelisk consists of one entire square stone without

hieroglyphics, in height seventy-two feet, but comprehending the base and

all it is 108 feet high, and rests on four lions of gilded copper, so as

you may see through the base of the obelisk and plinth of the pedestal.