"_Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti P.

F. Cla. Melæ Heredis et Pothi L._"

At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, once Tergemina, out of which

the three Horatii passed to encounter the Curiatii of Albano. Hence,

bending homeward by St. Saba, by Antoninus's baths (which we entered), is

the marble sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the walls and the

stately ruins show the enormous magnitude of these baths. Passing by a

corner of the Circus Maximus, we viewed the place where stood the

Septizonium, demolished by Sextus V., for fear of its falling. Going by

Mons Coelius, we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in Naviculâ, so

named from a ship carved out in white marble standing on a pedestal

before it, supposed to be the vow of one escaped from shipwreck. It has a

glorious front to the street. Adjoining to this are the Hortii Mathæi,

which only of all the places about the city I omitted visiting, though I

was told inferior to no garden in Rome for statues, ancient monuments,

aviaries, fountains, groves, and especially a noble obelisk, and

maintained in beauty at an expense of 6,000 crowns yearly, which, if not

expended to keep up its beauty, forfeits the possession of a greater

revenue to another family: so curious are they in their villas and places

of pleasure, even to excess.

The next day, we went to the once famous Circus Caracalla, in the midst

of which there now lay prostrate one of the most stately and ancient

obelisks, full of Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was broken into four pieces,

when overthrown by the Barbarians, and would have been purchased and

transported into England by the magnificent Thomas Earl of Arundel,

could it have been well removed to the sea. This is since set together

and placed on the stupendous artificial rock made by Innocent X., and

serving for a fountain in Piazza Navona, the work of Bernini, the Pope's

architect. Near this is the sepulchre of Metellus, of massy stone, pretty

entire, now called Capo di Bovo. Hence, to a small oratory, named

"_Domine, quo vadis_"; where the tradition is, that our Blessed Savior

met St. Peter as he fled, and turned him back again.

St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean structure (the _facciáta_ excepted),

but is venerable, especially for the relics and grots, in which lie the

ashes of many holy men. Here is kept the pontifical chair sprinkled with

the blood of Pope Stephen, to which great devotion is paid; also a well

full of martyrs' bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebastian, with one of

the arrows (used in shooting him). These are preserved by the Fulgentine

Monks, who have here their monastery, and who led us down into a grotto

which they affirmed went divers furlongs under ground; the sides, or

walls which we passed were filled with bones and dead bodies, laid (as it

were) on shelves, whereof some were shut up with broad stones and now and

then a cross, or a palm, cut in them. At the end of some of these

subterranean passages, were square rooms with altars in them, said to

have been the receptacles of primitive Christians, in the times of

persecution, nor seems it improbable.

17th February, 1645. I was invited, after dinner, to the Academy of the

Humorists, kept in a spacious hall belonging to Signor Mancini, where the

wits of the town meet on certain days to recite poems, and debate on

several subjects. The first that speaks is called the Lord, and stands in

an eminent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi recite in order. By

these ingenious exercises, besides the learned discourses, is the purity

of the Italian tongue daily improved. The room is hung round with

devices, or emblems, with mottoes under them. There are several other

Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical titles. In this of the

Humorists is the picture of Guarini, the famous author of the Pastor

Fido, once of this society. The chief part of the day we spent in hearing

the academic exercises.

18th February, 1645. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere; it has a fair

front, and within are parts of the bodies of St. Mark and Marcellino; on

the Tribuna is a painting of Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval;

Baglioni, with some other rare paintings. Coming round from hence we

passed by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now totally in

ruins. In the afternoon, we visited the English Jesuits, with whose

Superior, P. Stafford, I was well acquainted; who received us

courteously. They call their church and college St. Thomasso de gli

Inglesi, and is a seminary. Among other trifles, they show the relics of

Becket, their reputed martyr. Of paintings there is one of Durante, and

many representing the sufferings of several of their society executed in

England, especially F. Campion.

In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita, I had seen the feet of

many pilgrims washed by Princes, Cardinals, and noble Romans, and served

at table, as the ladies and noble women did to other poor creatures in

another room. It was told us that no less than 444,000 men had been thus

treated in the Jubilee of 1600, and 25,500 women, as appears by the

register, which brings store of money.

Returning homeward, I saw the palace of Cardinal Spada, where is a most

magnificent hall painted by Daniel de Volterra and Giulio Piacentino, who

made the fret in the little Court; but the rare perspectives are of

Bolognesi. Near this is the Mont Pieta, instituted as a bank for the

poor, who, if the sum be not great, may have money upon pawns. To this

joins St. Martino, to which belongs a Schola, or Corporation, that do

many works of charity. Hence we came through Campo di Fiori, or

herb-market, in the midst of which is a fountain casting out water of a

dolphin, in copper; and in this piazza is common execution done.

19th February, 1645. I went, this afternoon, to visit my Lord John

Somerset, brother to the Marquis of Worcester, who had his apartment in

Palazzo della Cancellaria, belonging to Cardinal Francesco Barberini, as

Vice-chancellor of the Church of Rome, and Protector of the English. The

building is of the famous architect, Bramante, of incrusted marble, with

four ranks of noble lights; the principal entrance is of Fontana's

design, and all marble; the portico within sustained by massy columns;

on the second peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by

Salviati and Vasari; and so ample is this palace, that six princes with

their families have been received in it at one time, without incommoding

each other.

20th February, 1645. I went, as was my usual custom, and spent an

afternoon in Piazza Navona, as well as to see what antiquities I could

purchase among the people who hold market there for medals, pictures, and

such curiosities, as to hear the mountebanks prate and distribute their

medicines. This was formerly the Circus, or Agonales, dedicated to sports

and pastimes, and is now the greatest market of the city, having three

most noble fountains, and the stately palaces of the Pamfilii, St.

Giacomo de Spagnoli belonging to that nation, to which add two convents

for friars and nuns, all Spanish. In this Church was erected a most

stately catafalco, or capellar ardente, for the death of the Queen of

Spain; the church was hung with black, and here I heard a Spanish sermon,

or funeral oration, and observed the statues, devices, and impresses hung

about the walls, the church and pyramid stuck with thousands of lights

and tapers, which made a glorious show. The statue of St. James is by

Sansovino; there are also some good pictures of Caracci. The _facciáta_,

too, is fair. Returning home, I passed by the stumps of old Pasquin, at

the corner of a street, called Strada Pontificia; here they still paste

up their drolling lampoons and scurrilous papers. This had formerly been

one of the best statues for workmanship and art in all the city, as the

remaining bust does still show.

21st February, 1645. I walked in the morning up the hill toward the

Capuchins, where was then Cardinal Unufrio (brother to the late Pope

Urban VIII.) of the same order. He built them a pretty church, full of

rare pictures, and there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still

does miracles. The piece at the great altar is by Lanfranc. It is a lofty

edifice, with a beautiful avenue of trees, and in a good air. After

dinner, passing along the Strada del Corso, I observed the column of

Antoninus, passing under Arco Portugallo, which is but a relic,

heretofore erected in honor of Domitian, called now Portugallo, from a

Cardinal living near it. A little further on the right hand stands the

column in a small piazza, heretofore set up in honor of M. Aurelius

Antoninus, comprehending in a basso-relievo of white marble his hostile

acts against the Parthians, Armenians, Germans, etc; but it is now

somewhat decayed. On the summit has been placed the image of St. Paul, of

gilded copper. The pillar is said to be 161 feet high, ascended by 207

steps, receiving light by fifty-six apertures, without defacing the

sculpture.

At a little distance, are the relics of the Emperor's palace, the heads

of whose pillars show them to have been Corinthian.

Turning a little down, we came to another piazza, in which stands a

sumptuous vase of porphyry, and a fair fountain; but the grace of this

market, and indeed the admiration of the whole world, is the Pantheon,

now called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the Gods, and

still remaining the most entire antiquity of the city. It was built by

Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the architrave of the portico, sustained by

thirteen pillars of Theban marble, six feet thick, and fifty-three in

height, of one entire stone. In this porch is an old inscription.

Entering the church, we admire the fabric, wholly covered with one

cupola, seemingly suspended in the air, and receiving light by a hole in

the middle only. The structure is near as high as broad, viz, 144 feet,

not counting the thickness of the walls, which is twenty-two more to the

top, all of white marble; and, till Urban VIII. converted part of the

metal into ordnance of war against the Duke of Parma, and part to make

the high altar in St. Peter's, it was all over covered with Corinthian

brass, ascending by forty degrees within the roof, or convex, of the

cupola, richly carved in octagons in the stone. There are niches in the

walls, in which stood heretofore the statues of Jupiter and the other

Gods and Goddesses; for here was that Venus which had hung in her ear the

other Union[28] that Cleopatra was about to dissolve and drink up, as

she had done its fellow. There are several of these niches, one above

another for the celestial, terrestrial, and subterranean deities; but the

place is now converted into a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and

all the Saints. The pavement is excellent, and the vast folding-gates, of

Corinthian brass. In a word, it is of all the Roman antiquities the most

worthy of notice. There lie interred in this Temple the famous Raphael di

Urbino, Perino del Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters.

[Footnote 28:

And in the cup an UNION shall he throw,

Richer than that which four successive kings

In Denmark's crown have worn.

--Shakespeare, "Hamlet," Act v. Sc. 2.

Theobald says, an UNION is the finest sort of pearl, and has its

place in all crowns and coronets. The Latin word for a single large

pearl, it is hardly necessary to add, is _unio_.]

Returning home, we pass by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, a noble piece of

architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, which is the grace of the whole

Corso.

22d February, 1645. I went to Trinitá del Monte, a monastery of French, a

noble church built by Louis XI. and Charles VIII., the chapels well

painted, especially that by Zaccara da Volterra, and the cloister with

the miracles of their St. Francis de Paulo, and the heads of the French

Kings. In the _pergolo_ above, the walls are wrought with excellent

perspective, especially the St. John; there are the Babylonish dials,

invented by Kircher, the Jesuit. This convent, so eminently situated on

Mons Pincius, has the entire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a fair

garden which joins to the Palazzo di Medici.

23d February, 1645. I went to hear a sermon at St. Giacomo degli

Incurabili, a fair church built by F. da Volterra, of good architecture,

and so is the hospital, where only desperate patients are brought. I

passed the evening at St. Maria del Popolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre,

where his ashes lay many years in a marble chest. To this church joins

the monastery of St. Augustine, which has pretty gardens on Mons Pincius,

and in the church is the miraculous shrine of the Madonna which Pope Paul

III. brought barefooted to the place, supplicating for a victory over the

Turks in 1464. In a chapel of the Ghisi, are some rare paintings of

Raphael, and noble sculptures. Those two in the choir are by Sansovino,

and in the Chapel de Cerasii, a piece of Caravaggio. Here lie buried many

great scholars and artists, of which I took notice of this inscription:

"_Hospes, disce novum mortis genus; improba felis,

Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo._"

Opposite to the _facciátæ_ of the church is a superb obelisk full of

hieroglyphics, the same that Sennesertus, King of Egypt, dedicated to the

Sun; brought to Rome by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and

since placed here by Pope Sextus V. It is eighty-eight feet high, of one

entire stone, and placed with great art and engines by the famous

Domenico Fontana.

Hence, turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo, we came to

Justinian's gardens, near the Muro Torto, so prominently built as

threatening every moment to fall, yet standing so for these thousand

years. Under this is the burying place for the common prostitutes, where

they are put into the ground, _sans ceremonie_.

24th February, 1645. We walked to St. Roche's and Martine's, near the

brink of the Tiber, a large hospital for both sexes. Hence, to the

Mausoleum Augusti, between the Tiber and the Via Flaminia, now much

ruined, which had formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It

was intended as a cemetery for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports, and

was covered with a cupola of white marble, environed with stately trees

and innumerable statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We passed

the afternoon at the Sapienza, a very stately building full of good

marbles, especially the portico, of admirable architecture. These are

properly the University Schools, where lectures are read on Law,

Medicine, and Anatomy, and students perform their exercises.

Hence, we walked to the church of St. Andrea della Valle, near the former

Theater of Pompey, and the famous Piccolomini, but given to this church

and the Order, who are Theatins. The Barberini have in this place a

chapel, of curious incrusted marbles of several sorts, and rare

paintings. Under it is a place where St. Sebastian is said to have been

beaten with rods before he was shot with darts. The cupola is painted by

Lanfranc, an inestimable work, and the whole fabric and monastery

adjoining are admirable.

25th February, 1645. I was invited by a Dominican Friar, whom we usually

heard preach to a number of Jews, to be godfather to a converted Turk and

Jew. The ceremony was performed in the Church of Santa Maria sopra la

Minerva, near the Capitol. They were clad in white; then exorcised at

their entering the church with abundance of ceremonies, and, when led

into the choir, were baptized by a Bishop, _in pontificalibus_. The Turk

lived afterward in Rome, sold hot waters and would bring us presents when

he met us, kneeling and kissing the hems of our cloaks; but the Jew was

believed to be a counterfeit. This church, situated on a spacious rising,

was formerly consecrated to Minerva. It was well built and richly

adorned, and the body of St. Catherine di Sienna lies buried here. The

paintings of the chapel are by Marcello Venuti; the Madonna over the

altar is by Giovanni di Fiesole, called the Angelic Painter, who was of

the Order of these Monks. There are many charities dealt publicly here,

especially at the procession on the Annunciation, where I saw his

Holiness, with all the Cardinals, Prelates, etc., _in pontificalibus_;

dowries being given to 300 poor girls all clad in white. The Pope had his

tiara on his head, and was carried on men's shoulders in an open

armchair, blessing the people as he passed. The statue of Christ, at the

Columna, is esteemed one of the masterpieces of M. Angelo: innumerable

are the paintings by the best artists, and the organ is accounted one of

the sweetest in Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We returned by St.

Mark's, a stately church, with an excellent pavement, and a fine piece by

Perugino, of the Two Martyrs. Adjoining to this is a noble palace built

by the famous Bramante.

26th February, 1645. Ascending the hill, we came to the Forum Trajanum,

where his column stands yet entire, wrought with admirable basso-relievo

recording the Dacian war, the figures at the upper part appearing of the

same proportion with those below. It is ascended by 192 steps,

enlightened with 44 apertures, or windows, artificially disposed; in

height from the pedestal 140 feet.

It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where now stands St.

Peter's of gilt brass, erected by Pope Sextus V. The sculpture of this

stupendous pillar is thought to be the work of Apollodorus; but what is

very observable is, the descent to the plinth of the pedestal, showing

how this ancient city lies now buried in her ruins; this monument being

at first set up on a rising ground. After dinner, we took the air in

Cardinal Bentivoglio's delicious gardens, now but newly deceased. He had

a fair palace built by several good masters on part of the ruins of

Constantine's Baths; well adorned with columns and paintings, especially

those of Guido Reni.

27th February, 1645. In the morning Mr. Henshaw and myself walked to the

Trophies of Marius, erected in honor of his victory over the Cimbrians,

but these now taken out of their niches are placed on the balusters of

the Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruin. Keeping on our

way, we came to St. Croce of Jerusalem, built by Constantine over the

demolition of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which he threw down; and it

was here, they report, he deposited the wood of the true Cross, found by

his mother, Helena; in honor whereof this church was built, and in memory

of his victory over Maxentius when that holy sign appeared to him. The

edifice without is Gothic, but very glorious within, especially the roof,

and one tribuna (gallery) well painted. Here is a chapel dedicated to St.

Helena, the floor whereof is of earth brought from Jerusalem; the walls

are of fair mosaic, in which they suffer no women to enter, save once a

year. Under the high altar of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in

Lydian marble, and Benedict VII.; and they show a number of relics,

exposed at our request; with a phial of our blessed Savior's blood; two

thorns of his crown; three chips of the real cross; one of the nails,

wanting a point; St. Thomas's doubting finger; and a fragment of the

title (put on the cross), being part of a thin board; some of Judas's

pieces of silver; and many more, if one had faith to believe it. To this

venerable church joins a Monastery, the gardens taking up the space of an

ancient amphitheatre.

Hence, we passed beyond the walls out at the Port of St. Laurence, to

that Saint's church, and where his ashes are enshrined. This was also

built by the same great Constantine, famous for the Coronation of Pietro

Altissiodorensis, Emperor of Constantinople, by Honorius II. It is said

the corpse of St. Stephen, the proto martyr, was deposited here by that

of St. Sebastian, which it had no sooner touched, but Sebastian gave it

place of its own accord. The Church has no less than seven privileged

altars, and excellent pictures. About the walls are painted this

martyr's sufferings; and, when they built them, the bones of divers

saints were translated to other churches. The front is Gothic. In our

return, we saw a small ruin of an aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius, the

prætor; and so passed through that incomparable straight street leading

to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, sufficiently tired.

We were taken up next morning in seeing the impertinences of the

Carnival, when all the world are as mad at Rome as at other places; but

the most remarkable were the three races of the Barbary horses, that run

in the Strada del Corso without riders, only having spurs so placed on

their backs, and hanging down by their sides, as by their motion to

stimulate them: then of mares, then of asses, of buffalos, naked men, old

and young, and boys, and abundance of idle ridiculous pastime. One thing

is remarkable, their acting comedies on a stage placed on a cart, or

_plaustrum_, where the scene, or tiring place, is made of boughs in a

rural manner, which they drive from street to street with a yoke or two

of oxen, after the ancient guise. The streets swarm with prostitutes,

buffoons, and all manner of rabble.

1st March, 1645. At the Greek Church, we saw the Eastern ceremonies

performed by a Bishop, etc., in that tongue. Here the unfortunate Duke

and Duchess of Bouillon received their ashes, it being the first day of

Lent. There was now as much trudging up and down of devotees, as the day

before of licentious people; all saints alike to appearance.

The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of statues

and antiquities, especially urns; among which is that of Minutius Felix;

a terminus that formerly stood in the Appian way, and a huge colossé of

the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviary on the hill; the whole

gardens furnished with rare collections, fresh, shady, and adorned with

noble fountains. Continuing our walk a mile farther, we came to Pons

Milvius, now Mela, where Constantine overthrew Maxentius, and saw the

miraculous sign of the cross, _In hoc signo vinces_. It was a sweet

morning, and the bushes were full of nightingales. Hence, to Aqua Claudia

again, an aqueduct finished by that Emperor at the expense of eight

millions. In the afternoon, to Farnese's gardens, near the Campo

Vaccino; and upon the Palatine Mount to survey the ruins of Juno's

Temple, in the Piscina, a piazza so-called near the famous bridge built

by Antoninus Pius, and re-edified by Pope Sextus IV.

The rest of this week, we went to the Vatican, to hear the sermons, at

St. Peter's, of the most famous preachers, who discourse on the same

subjects and text yearly, full of Italian eloquence and action. On our

Lady day, 25th March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp to the

Minerva, the great guns of the Castle of St. Angelo being fired, when he

gives portions to 500 _zitelle_ (young women), who kiss his feet in

procession, some destined to marry, some to be nuns;--the scholars of the

college celebrating the blessed Virgin with their compositions. The next

day, his Holiness was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent to

several great Princes; the Procurator of the Carmelites preaching on our

Savior's feeding the multitude with five loaves, the ceremony ends. The

sacrament being this day exposed, and the relics of the Holy Cross, the

concourse about the streets is extraordinary. On Palm-Sunday, there was a

great procession, after a papal mass.

11th April, 1645. St. Veronica's handkerchief (with the impression of our

Savior's face) was exposed, and the next day the spear, with a world of

ceremony. On Holy Thursday, the Pope said mass, and afterward carried the

Host in procession about the chapel, with an infinity of tapers. This

finished, his Holiness was carried in his open chair on men's shoulders

to the place where, reading the Bull _In Coenâ Domini_, he both curses

and blesses all in a breath; then the guns are again fired. Hence, he

went to the Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he washed the feet of twelve

poor men, with almost the same ceremony as it is done at Whitehall; they

have clothes, a dinner, and alms, which he gives with his own hands, and

serves at their table; they have also gold and silver medals, but their

garments are of white woolen long robes, as we paint the Apostles. The

same ceremonies are done by the Conservators and other officers of state

at St. John di Lateran; and now the table on which they say our blessed

Lord celebrated his last supper is set out, and the heads of the

Apostles. In every famous church they are busy in dressing up their

pageantries to represent the Holy Sepulchre, of which we went to visit

divers.

On Good Friday, we went again to St. Peter's, where the handkerchief,

lance, and cross were all exposed, and worshiped together. All the

confession seats were filled with devout people, and at night was a

procession of several who most lamentably whipped themselves till the

blood stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others upon the bare

back, having visors and masks on their faces; at every three or four

steps dashing the knotted and raveled whip cord over their shoulders, as

hard as they could lay it on; while some of the religious orders and

fraternities sung in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going before,

making all together a horrible and indeed heathenish pomp.

The next day, there was much ceremony at St. John di Laterano, so as the

whole week was spent in running from church to church, all the town in

busy devotion, great silence, and unimaginable superstition.

Easter day, I was awakened by the guns from St. Angelo: we went to St.

Peter's, where the Pope himself celebrated mass, showed the relics

before-named, and gave a public Benediction.

Monday, we went to hear music in the Chiesa Nova; and, though there were

abundance of ceremonies at the other great churches, and great exposure

of relics, yet being wearied with sights of this nature, and the season

of the year, summer, at Rome being very dangerous, by reason of the heat

minding us of returning northward, we spent the rest of our time in

visiting such places as we had not yet sufficiently seen. Only I do not

forget the Pope's benediction of the _Gonfalone_, or Standard, and giving

the hallowed palms; and, on May Day, the great procession of the

University and the muleteers at St. Anthony's, and their setting up a

foolish May pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. We therefore now took

coach a little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterránea, being

much like what we had seen at St. Sebastians. Here, in a cornfield,

guided by two torches, we crept on our bellies into a little hole, about

twenty paces, which delivered us into a large entry that led us into

several streets, or alleys, a good depth in the bowels of the earth, a

strange and fearful passage for divers miles, as Bosio has measured and

described them in his book. We ever and anon came into pretty square

rooms, that seemed to be chapels with altars, and some adorned with very

ordinary ancient painting. Many skeletons and bodies are placed on the

sides one above the other in degrees like shelves, whereof some are shut

up with a coarse flat stone, having engraven on them _Pro Christo_, or a

cross and palms, which are supposed to have been martyrs. Here, in all

likelihood, were the meetings of the Primitive Christians during the

persecutions, as Pliny the Younger describes them. As I was prying about,

I found a glass phial, filled (as was conjectured) with dried blood, and

two lachrymatories. Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there

appeared nothing else) lay so entire, as if placed by the art of the

chirurgeon, but being only touched fell all to dust. Thus, after

wandering two or three miles in this subterranean meander, we returned

almost blind when we came into the daylight, and even choked by the smoke

of the torches. It is said that a French bishop and his retinue

adventuring too far into these dens, their lights going out, were never

heard of more.

We were entertained at night with an English play at the Jesuits', where

we before had dined; and the next day at Prince Galicano's, who himself

composed the music to a magnificent opera, where were present Cardinal

Pamphilio, the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, the cardinals, the

ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility and strangers. There had

been in the morning a joust and tournament of several young gentlemen on

a formal defy, to which we had been invited; the prizes being distributed

by the ladies, after the knight-errantry way. The lancers and swordsmen

running at tilt against the barriers, with a great deal of clatter, but

without any bloodshed, giving much diversion to the spectators, and was

new to us travelers.

The next day Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning in attending the

entrance and cavalcade of Cardinal Medici, the ambassador from the Grand

Duke of Florence, by the Via Flaminia. After dinner, we went again to the

Villa Borghese, about a mile without the city; the garden is rather a

park, or a Paradise, contrived and planted with walks and shades of

myrtles, cypress, and other trees, and groves, with abundance of

fountains, statues, and bass-relievos, and several pretty murmuring

rivulets. Here they had hung large nets to catch woodcocks. There was

also a vivary, where, among other exotic fowls, was an ostrich; besides a

most capacious aviary; and, in another inclosed part, a herd of deer.

Before the palace (which might become the court of a great prince) stands

a noble fountain, of white marble, enriched with statues. The outer walls

of the house are encrusted with excellent antique bass-relievos, of the

same marble, incornished with festoons and niches set with statues from

the foundation to the roof. A stately portico joins the palace, full of

statues and columns of marble, urns, and other curiosities of sculpture.

In the first hall were the Twelve Cæsars, of antique marble, and the

whole apartments furnished with pictures of the most celebrated masters,

and two rare tables of porphyry, of great value. But of this already: for

I often visited this delicious place.

This night were glorious fire-works at the palace of Cardinal Medici

before the gate, and lights of several colors all about the windows

through the city, which they contrive by setting the candles in little

paper lanterns dyed with various colors, placing hundreds of them from

story to story; which renders a gallant show.

4th May, 1645. Having seen the entry of the ambassador of Lucca, I went

to the Vatican, where, by favor of our Cardinal Protector, Fran.

Barberini, I was admitted into the Consistory, heard the ambassador make

his oration in Latin to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state, or

throne, and changing two pontifical mitres; after which, I was presented

to kiss his toe, that is, his embroidered slipper, two Cardinals holding

up his vest and surplice; and then, being sufficiently blessed with his

thumb and two fingers for that day I returned home to dinner.

We went again to see the medals of Signor Gotefredi, which are absolutely

the best collection in Rome.

Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human figure lies, found

on the snowy Alps; I measured the hydra, and found it not a foot long;

the three necks and fifteen heads seem to be but patched up with several

pieces of serpents' skins.

5th May, 1645. We took coach, and went fifteen miles out of the city to

Frascati, formerly Tusculum, a villa of Cardinal Aldobrandini, built for

a country house; but surpassing, in my opinion, the most delicious places

I ever beheld for its situation, elegance, plentiful water, groves,

ascents, and prospects. Just behind the palace (which is of excellent

architecture) in the centre of the inclosure, rises a high hill, or

mountain, all over clad with tall wood, and so formed by nature, as if it

had been cut out by art, from the summit whereof falls a cascade, seeming

rather a great river than a stream precipitating into a large theatre of

water, representing an exact and perfect rainbow, when the sun shines

out. Under this, is made an artificial grot, wherein are curious rocks,

hydraulic organs, and all sorts of singing birds, moving and chirping by

force of the water, with several other pageants and surprising

inventions. In the centre of one of these rooms, rises a copper ball that

continually dances about three feet above the pavement, by virtue of a

wind conveyed secretly to a hole beneath it; with many other devices to

wet the unwary spectators, so that one can hardly step without wetting to

the skin. In one of these theaters of water, is an Atlas spouting up the

stream to a very great height; and another monster makes a terrible

roaring with a horn; but, above all, the representation of a storm is

most natural, with such fury of rain, wind, and thunder, as one would

imagine oneself in some extreme tempest. The garden has excellent walks

and shady groves, abundance of rare fruit, oranges, lemons, etc., and the

goodly prospect of Rome, above all description, so as I do not wonder

that Cicero and others have celebrated this place with such encomiums.

The Palace is indeed built more like a cabinet than anything composed of

stone and mortar; it has in the middle a hall furnished with excellent

marbles and rare pictures, especially those of Gioseppino d'Arpino; the

movables are princely and rich. This was the last piece of architecture

finished by Giacomo della Porta, who built it for Pietro Cardinal

Aldobrandini, in the time of Clement VIII.[29]

[Footnote 29: Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in

January, 1592, by the name of Clement VIII., and died in March,

1605.]

We went hence to another house and garden not far distant, on the side of

a hill called Mondragone, finished by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, an ample

and kingly edifice. It has a very long gallery, and at the end a theatre

for pastimes, spacious courts, rare grots, vineyards, olive-grounds,

groves and solitudes. The air is so fresh and sweet, as few parts of

Italy exceed it; nor is it inferior to any palace in the city itself for

statues, pictures, and furniture; but, it growing late, we could not take

such particular notice of these things as they deserved.

[Sidenote: TIVOLI]

6th May, 1645. We rested ourselves; and next day, in a coach, took our

last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places, going to Tivoli, or

the old Tiburtum. At about six miles from Rome, we pass the Teverone, a

bridge built by Mammea, the mother of Severus, and so by divers ancient

sepulchres, among others that of Valerius Volusi; and near it past the

stinking sulphurous river over the Ponte Lucano, where we found a heap, or

turret, full of inscriptions, now called the Tomb of Plautius. Arrived at

Tivoli, we went first to see the palace d'Este, erected on a plain, but

where was formerly an hill. The palace is very ample and stately. In the

garden, on the right hand, are sixteen vast conchas of marble, jetting

out waters; in the midst of these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast

forth four girandolas, called from the resemblance (to a particular

exhibition in fireworks so named) the Fountana di Spéccho

(looking-glass). Near this is a place for tilting. Before the ascent of

the palace is the famous fountain of Leda, and not far from that, four

sweet and delicious gardens. Descending thence are two pyramids of water,

and in a grove of trees near it the fountains of Tethys, Esculapius,

Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora; then the prancing Pegasus, Bacchus,

the Grot of Venus, the two Colosses of Melicerta and Sibylla Tiburtina,

all of exquisite marble, copper, and other suitable adornments. The

Cupids pouring out water are especially most rare, and the urns on which

are placed the ten nymphs. The grots are richly paved with

_pietra-commessa_, shells, coral, etc.

Toward Roma Triumphans, leads a long and spacious walk, full of

fountains, under which is historized the whole Ovidian Metamorphosis, in

rarely sculptured _mezzo relievo_. At the end of this, next the wall, is

the city of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing

that city, with its amphitheatres; naumachi, thermæ, temples, arches,

aqueducts, streets, and other magnificences, with a little stream running

through it for the Tiber, gushing out of an urn next to the statue of the

river. In another garden, is a noble aviary, the birds artificial, and

singing till an owl appears, on which they suddenly change their notes.

Near this is the fountain of dragons, casting out large streams of water

with great noise. In another grotto, called Grotto di Natura, is an

hydraulic organ; and below this are divers stews and fish ponds, in one

of which is the statue of Neptune in his chariot on a seahorse, in

another a Triton; and lastly, a garden of simples. There are besides in

the palace many rare statues and pictures, bedsteads richly inlaid, and

sundry other precious movables: the whole is said to have cost the best

part of a million.

Having gratified our curiosity with these artificial miracles, and dined,

we went to see the so famous natural precipice and cascade of the river

Anio, rushing down from the mountains of Tivoli with that fury that, what

with the mist it perpetually casts up by the breaking of the water

against the rocks, and what with the sun shining on it and forming a

natural Iris, and the prodigious depth of the gulf below, it is enough to

astonish one that looks on it. Upon the summit of this rock stands the

ruins and some pillars and cornices of the Temple of Sibylla Tyburtina,

or Albunea, a round fabric, still discovering some of its pristine

beauty. Here was a great deal of gunpowder drying in the sun, and a

little beneath, mills belonging to the Pope.

[Sidenote: ROME]

And now we returned to Rome. By the way, we were showed, at some

distance, the city Præneste, and the Hadrian villa, now only a heap of

ruins; and so came late to our lodging.

We now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, except

what should happen to come in our way, when my companion, Mr. Henshaw, or

myself should go to take the air: only I may not omit that one afternoon,

diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a mountebank there to allure

curious strangers, taking off a ring from his finger, which seemed set

with a dull, dark stone a little swelling out, like what we call (though

untruly) a toadstone, and wetting his finger a little in his mouth, and

then touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as bright and large as a

small wax candle; then, blowing it out, repeated this several times. I

have much regretted that I did not purchase the receipt of him for making

that composition at what price soever; for though there is a process in

Jo. Baptista Porta and others how to do it, yet on several trials they

none of them have succeeded.

Among other observations I made in Rome are these: as to coins and

medals, ten _asses_ make the Roman _denarius_, five the _quinarius_, ten

_denarii_ an _aureus_; which accompt runs almost exactly with what is now

in use of _quatrini_, _baiocs_, _julios_, and _scudi_, each exceeding the

other in the proportion of ten. The _sestertius_ was a small silver coin,

marked H. S. or rather LL^s, valued two pounds and a half of silver, viz,

250 _denarii_, about twenty-five golden _ducati_. The stamp of the Roman

_denarius_ varied, having sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma

armed, or with a chariot and two horses, which were called _bigi_; if

with four, _quadrigi_: if with a Victoria, so named. The mark of the

_denarius_ was distinguished > | < thus, or X; the _quinarius_ of half

value, had, on one side, the head of Rome and V; the reverse, Castor and

Pollux on horseback, inscribed _Roma_, etc.

I observed that in the Greek church they made the sign of the cross from

the right hand to the left; contrary to the Latins and the schismatic

Greeks; gave the benediction with the first, second, and little finger

stretched out, retaining the third bent down, expressing a distance of

the third Person of the Holy Trinity from the first two.

[Illustration: _LORD WILLIAM RUSSELL TAKING LEAVE OF HIS CHILDREN, 1683_

_Photogravure after a painting by Bridges_]

For sculptors and architects, we found Bernini and Algardi were in the

greatest esteem; Fiamingo, as a statuary; who made the Andrea in St.

Peter's, and is said to have died mad because it was placed in an ill

light. Among the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has such an address

of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient masters so well as to make his

copies pass for originals; Pietro de Cortone, Monsieur Poussin, a

Frenchman, and innumerable more. Fioravanti, for armor, plate, dead life,

tapestry, etc. The chief masters of music, after Marc Antonio, the best

treble, is Cavalier Lauretto, an eunuch; the next Cardinal Bichi's

eunuch, Bianchi, tenor, and Nicholai, bass. The Jews in Rome wore

red hats, till the Cardinal of Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted

one of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal as he passed by his coach; on

which an order was made, that they should use only the yellow color.

There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, an English devotée, who much

solicited for an order of Jesuitesses.

At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hanged in his cloak and hat for

murder. They struck the malefactor with a club that first stunned him,

and then cut his throat. At Naples they use a frame, like ours at

Halifax.[30]

[Footnote 30: A guillotine.]

It is reported that Rome has been once no less than fifty miles in

compass, now not thirteen, containing in it 3,000 churches and chapels,

monasteries, etc. It is divided into fourteen regions or wards; has seven

mountains, and as many campi or valleys; in these are fair parks, or

gardens, called villas, being only places of recess and pleasure, at some

distance from the streets, yet within the walls.

The bills of exchange I took up from my first entering Italy till I went

from Rome, amounting to but 616 _ducati di banco_, though I purchased

many books, pictures, and curiosities.

18th May, 1645. I intended to have seen Loretto, but, being disappointed

of moneys long expected, I was forced to return by the same way I came,

desiring, if possible, to be at Venice by the Ascension, and therefore I

diverted to take Leghorn in the way, as well to furnish me with credit by

a merchant there, as to take order for transporting such collections as I

had made at Rome. When on my way, turning about to behold this once and

yet glorious city, from an eminence, I did not, without some regret, give

it my last farewell.

Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had sojourned now

about seven months, autumn, winter, and spring, I took coach, in company

with two courteous Italian gentlemen. In the afternoon, we arrived at a

house, or rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma, called

Caprarola, situate on the brow of a hill, that overlooks a little town,

or rather a natural and stupendous rock; witness those vast caves serving

now for cellarage, where we were entertained with most generous wine of

several sorts, being just under the foundation. The palace was built by

the famous architect, Vignola, at the cost of Cardinal Alex. Farnese, in

form of an octagon, the court in the middle being exactly round, so as

rather to resemble a fort, or castle; yet the chambers within are all of

them square, which makes the walls exceedingly thick. One of these rooms

is so artificially contrived, that from the two opposite angles may be

heard the least whisper; they say any perfect square does it. Most of the

paintings are by Zuccari. It has a stately entry, on which spouts an

artificial fountain within the porch. The hall, chapel, and a great

number of lodging chambers are remarkable; but most of all the pictures

and witty inventions of Hannibal Caracci; the Dead Christ is

incomparable. Behind are the gardens full of statues and noble fountains,

especially that of the Shepherds. After dinner, we took horse, and lay

that night at Monte Rossi, twenty miles from Rome.

19th May, 1645. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Laurenzo. Next day,

at Radicofani, and slept at Turnera.

[Sidenote: SIENNA]

21st May, 1645. We dined at Sienna, where we could not pass admiring the

great church built entirely both within and without with white and black

marble in polished squares, by Macarino, showing so beautiful after a

shower has fallen. The floor within is of various colored marbles,

representing the story of both Testaments, admirably wrought. Here lies

Pius II. The bibliotéca is painted by P. Perrugino and Raphael. The life

of Æneas Sylvius is in FRESCO; in the middle are the Three Graces, in

antique marble, very curious, and the front of this building, though

Gothic, is yet very fine. Among other things, they show St. Catharine's

disciplining cell, the door whereof is half cut out into chips by the

pilgrims and devotees, being of deal wood.

Setting out hence for Pisa, we went again to see the Duomo in which the

Emperor Henry VII. lies buried, poisoned by a monk in the Eucharist. The

bending tower was built by Busqueto Delichio, a Grecian architect, and is

a stupendous piece of art. In the gallery of curiosities is a fair mummy;

the tail of a sea-horse; coral growing on a man's skull; a chariot

automaton; two pieces of rock crystal, in one of which is a drop of

water, in the other three or four small worms; two embalmed children;

divers petrifactions, etc. The garden of simples is well furnished, and

has in it the deadly yew, or _taxus_, of the ancients; which Dr.

Belluccio, the superintendent, affirms that his workmen cannot endure to

clip for above the space of half an hour at a time, from the pain of the

head which surprises them.

We went hence from Leghorn, by coach, where I took up ninety crowns for

the rest of my journey, with letters of credit for Venice, after I had

sufficiently complained of my defeat of correspondence at Rome.

The next day, I came to Lucca, a small but pretty territory and state of

itself. The city is neat and well fortified, with noble and pleasant

walks of trees on the works, where the gentry and ladies used to take the

air. It is situate on an ample plain by the river Serchio, yet the

country about it is hilly. The Senate-house is magnificent. The church of

St. Michael is a noble piece, as is also St. Fredian, more remarkable to

us for the corpse of St. Richard, an English king,[31] who died here on

his pilgrimage toward Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb:

_Hic rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus;

Rex Fuit Anglorum; regnum tenet iste Polorum.

Regnum demisit; pro Christo cuncta reliquit.

Ergo, Richardum nobis debit Anglia sanctum.

Hic genitor Sanctæ Wulburgæ Virginis almæ

Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi,

Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum._

[Footnote 31: What particular Richard King of England this was, it

is impossible to say; the tomb still exists, and has long been a

_crux_ to antiquaries and travelers.]

Next this, we visited St. Croce, an excellent structure all of marble

both without and within, and so adorned as may vie with many of the

fairest even in Rome: witness the huge cross, valued at £15,000, above

all venerable for that sacred _volto_ which (as tradition goes) was

miraculously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, while the

artist, finishing the rest of the body, was meditating what face to set

on it. The inhabitants are exceedingly civil to strangers, above all

places in Italy, and they speak the purest Italian. It is also cheap

living, which causes travelers to set up their rest here more than in

Florence, though a more celebrated city; besides, the ladies here are

very conversable, and the religious women not at all reserved; of these

we bought gloves and embroidered stomachers, generally worn by gentlemen

in these countries. The circuit of this state is but two easy days'

journey, and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany's but having Spain for a

protector (though the least bigoted of all Roman Catholics), and being

one of the fortified cities in Italy, it remains in peace. The whole

country abounds in excellent olives, etc.

[Sidenote: PISTORIA]

Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoria, where, besides one

church, there was little observable: only in the highway we crossed a

rivulet of salt water, though many miles from the sea. The country is

extremely pleasant, full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line for

the best part of that whole day, the hedges planted with trees at equal

distances, watered with clear and plentiful streams.

Rising early the next morning we arrived at Peggio Imperiale, being a

palace of the Great Duke, not far from the city, having omitted it in my

passage to Rome. The ascent to the house is by a stately gallery as it

were of tall and overgrown cypress trees for near half a mile. At the

entrance of these ranges, are placed statues of the Tiber and Arno, of

marble; those also of Virgil, Ovid, Petrarch, and Dante. The building is

sumptuous, and curiously furnished within with cabinets of

pietra-commessa in tables, pavements, etc., which is a magnificence, or

work, particularly affected at Florence. The pictures are, Adam and Eve

by Albert Durer, very excellent; as is that piece of carving in wood by

the same hand standing in a cupboard. Here is painted the whole Austrian

line; the Duke's mother, sister to the Emperor, the foundress of this

palace, than which there is none in Italy that I had seen more

magnificently adorned, or furnished.

[Sidenote: FLORENCE]

We could not omit in our passage to re-visit the same, and other

curiosities which we had neglected on our first being at Florence. We

went, therefore, to see the famous piece of Andrea del Sarto, in the

Annunciata. The story is, that the painter in a time of dearth borrowed a

sack of corn of the religious of that convent, and repayment being

demanded, he wrought it out in this picture, which represents Joseph

sitting on a sack of corn, and reading to the Blessed Virgin; a piece

infinitely valued. There fell down in the cloister an old man's face

painted on the wall in _fresco_, greatly esteemed, and broke into crumbs;

the Duke sent his best painters to make another instead of it, but none

of them would presume to touch a pencil where Andrea had wrought, like

another Apelles; but one of them was so industrious and patient, that,

picking up the fragments, he laid and fastened them so artificially

together, that the injury it had received was hardly discernible. Andrea

del Sarto lies buried in the same place. Here is also that picture of

Bartolomeo, who having spent his utmost skill in the face of the angel

Gabriel, and being troubled that he could not exceed it in the Virgin, he

began the body and to finish the clothes, and so left it, minding in the

morning to work on the face; but, when he came, no sooner had he drawn

away the cloth that was hung before it to preserve it from the dust, than

an admirable and ravishing face was found ready painted; at which miracle

all the city came in to worship. It is now kept in the Chapel of the

Salutation, a place so enriched by devotees, that none in Italy, save

Loretto, is said to exceed it. This picture is always covered with three

shutters, one of which is of massy silver; methinks it is very brown, the

forehead and cheeks whiter, as if it had been scraped. They report that

those who have the honor of seeing it never lose their sight--happy then

we! Belonging to this church is a world of plate, some whole statues of

it, and lamps innumerable, besides the costly vows hung up, some of gold,

and a cabinet of precious stones.

Visiting the Duke's repository again, we told at least forty ranks of

porphyry and other statues, and twenty-eight whole figures, many rare

paintings and relievos, two square columns with trophies. In one of the

galleries, twenty-four figures, and fifty antique heads; a Bacchus of M.

Angelo, and one of Bandinelli; a head of Bernini, and a most lovely

Cupid, of Parian marble; at the further end, two admirable women sitting,

and a man fighting with a centaur; three figures in little of Andrea; a

huge candlestick of amber; a table of Titian's painting, and another

representing God the Father sitting in the air on the Four Evangelists;

animals; divers smaller pieces of Raphael; a piece of pure virgin gold,

as big as an egg. In the third chamber of rarities is the square

cabinet, valued at 80,000 crowns, showing on every front, a variety of

curious work; one of birds and flowers, of _pietra-commessa_; one, a

descent from the cross, of M. Angelo; on the third, our Blessed Savior

and the Apostles, of amber; and, on the fourth, a crucifix of the same.

Between the pictures, two naked Venuses, by Titian; Adam and Eve, by

Durer; and several pieces of Portdenone, and del Frate. There is a globe

of six feet diameter. In the Armory, were an entire elk, a crocodile, and

among the harness, several targets and antique horse-arms, as that of

Charles V.; two set with turquoises, and other precious stones; a horse's

tail, of a wonderful length. Then, passing the Old Palace, which has a

very great hall for feasts and comedies, the roof rarely painted, and the

side walls with six very large pictures representing battles, the work of

Gio. Vassari. Here is a magazine full of plate; a harness of emeralds;

the furnitures of an altar four feet high, and six in length, of massy

gold; in the middle is placed the statue of Cosmo II., the bass-relievo

is of precious stones, his breeches covered with diamonds; the moldings

of this statue, and other ornaments, festoons, etc., are garnished with

jewels and great pearls, dedicated to St. Charles, with this inscription,

in rubies:

"_Cosimus Secundus Dei gratiâ Magnus Dux Etruriæ ex voto._"

There is also a King on horseback, of massy gold, two feet high, and an

infinity of such like rarities. Looking at the Justice, in copper, set up

on a column by Cosmo, in 1555, after the victory over Sienna, we were

told that the Duke, asking a gentleman how he liked the piece, he

answered, that he liked it very well, but that it stood too high for poor

men to come at it.

Prince Leopold has, in this city, a very excellent collection of

paintings, especially a St. Catherine of P. Veronese; a Venus of marble,

veiled from the middle to the feet, esteemed to be of that Greek workman

who made the Venus at the Medici's Palace in Rome, altogether as good,

and better preserved, an inestimable statue, not long since found about

Bologna.

Signor Gaddi is a lettered person, and has divers rarities, statues, and

pictures of the best masters, and one bust of marble as much esteemed as

the most antique in Italy, and many curious manuscripts; his best

paintings are, a Virgin of del Sarto, mentioned by Vassari, a St. John,

by Raphael, and an _Ecce Homo_, by Titian.

The hall of the Academy de la Crusca is hung about with impresses and

devices painted, all of them relating to corn sifted from the bran; the

seats are made like breadbaskets and other rustic instruments used about

wheat, and the cushions of satin, like sacks.

We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly noticing that

piece of the Resurrection, which consists of a prodigious number of naked

figures, the work of Pontormo. On the left hand is the Martyrdom of St.

Laurence, by Bronzino, rarely painted indeed. In a chapel is the tomb of

Pietro di Medici, and his brother John, of copper, excellently designed,

standing on two lions' feet, which end in foliage, the work of M. Angelo.

Over against this, are sepulchres of all the ducal family. The altar has

a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two Apostles. Paulus Jovius has

the honor to be buried in the cloister. Behind the choir is the superb

chapel of Ferdinand I., consisting of eight faces, four plain, four a

little hollowed; in the other are to be the sepulchres, and a niche of

paragon, for the statue of the prince now living, all of copper gilt;

above, is a large table of porphyry, for an inscription for the Duke, in

letters of jasper. The whole chapel, walls, pavement, and roof, are full

of precious stones united with the moldings, which are also of gilded

copper, and so are the bases and capitals of the columns. The tabernacle,

with the whole altar, is inlaid with cornelians, lazuli, serpentine,

agates, onyxes, etc. On the other side are six very large columns of rock

crystal, eight figures of precious stones of several colors, inlaid in

natural figures, not inferior to the best paintings, among which are many

pearls, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, sumptuous and sparkling beyond

description. The windows without side are of white marble. The library is

the architecture of Raphael; before the port is a square vestibule of

excellent art, of all the orders, without confusion; the ascent to it

from the library is excellent. We numbered eighty-eight shelves, all MSS.

and bound in red, chained; in all about 3,500 volumes, as they told us.

The Arsenal has sufficient to arm 70,000 men, accurately preserved and

kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordnance, whereof one is for a ball of

300 pounds weight, and another for 160, which weighs 72,500 pounds.

When I was at Florence, the celebrated masters were: for

_pietra-commessa_ (a kind of mosaic, or inlaying, of various colored

marble, and other more precious stones), Dominico Benetti and Mazotti;

the best statuary, Vincentio Brochi. This statuary makes those small

figures in plaster and pasteboard, which so resemble copper that, till

one handles them, they cannot be distinguished, he has so rare an art of

bronzing them; I bought four of him. The best painter, Pietro Beretino di

Cortona.

This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan, or prostitute, allowed

to practice that infamous trade in his dominions, and so has his Holiness

the Pope, but not so much in value.

[Sidenote: BOLOGNA]

Taking leave of our two jolly companions, Signor Giovanni and his fellow,

we took horses for Bologna; and, by the way, alighted at a villa of the

Grand Duke's, called Pratolino. The house is a square of four pavilions,

with a fair platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in a large

meadow, ascending like an amphitheater, having at the bottom a huge rock,

with water running in a small channel, like a cascade; on the other side,

are the gardens. The whole place seems consecrated to pleasure and summer

retirement. The inside of the palace may compare with any in Italy for

furniture of tapestry, beds, etc., and the gardens are delicious, and

full of fountains. In the grove sits Pan feeding his flock, the water

making a melodious sound through his pipe; and a Hercules, whose club

yields a shower of water, which, falling into a great shell, has a naked

woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In another grotto is Vulcan and

his family, the walls richly composed of corals, shells, copper, and

marble figures, with the hunting of several beasts, moving by the force

of water. Here, having been well washed for our curiosity, we went down a

large walk, at the sides whereof several slender streams of water gush

out of pipes concealed underneath, that interchangeably fall into each

other's channels, making a lofty and perfect arch, so that a man on

horseback may ride under it, and not receive one drop of wet. This

canopy, or arch of water, I thought one of the most surprising

magnificences I had ever seen, and very refreshing in the heat of the

summer. At the end of this very long walk, stands a woman in white

marble, in posture of a laundress wringing water out of a piece of linen,

very naturally formed, into a vast laver, the work and invention of M.

Angelo Buonarotti. Hence, we ascended Mount Parnassus, where the Muses

played to us on hydraulic organs. Near this is a great aviary. All these

waters came from the rock in the garden, on which is the statue of a

giant representing the Apennines, at the foot of which stands this villa.

Last of all, we came to the labyrinth, in which a huge colosse of Jupiter

throws out a stream over the garden. This is fifty feet in height, having

in his body a square chamber, his eyes and mouth serving for windows and

door.

We took horse and supped that night at Il Ponte, passing a dreadful ridge

of the Apennines, in many places capped with snow, which covers them the

whole summer. We then descended into a luxurious and rich plain. The next

day we passed through Scarperia, mounting the hills again, where the

passage is so straight and precipitous toward the right hand, that we

climbed them with much care and danger; lodging at Firenzuolo, which is a

fort built among the rocks, and defending the confines of the Great

Duke's territories.

The next day we passed by the Pietramala, a burning mountain. At the

summit of this prodigious mass of hills, we had an unpleasant way to

Pianura, where we slept that night and were entertained with excellent

wine. Hence to Scargalasino, and to bed at Loiano. This plain begins

about six miles from Bologna.

Bologna belongs to the Pope, and is a famous University, situate in one

of the richest spots of Europe for all sorts of provisions. It is built

like a ship, whereof the Torre d'Asinelli may go for the mainmast. The

city is of no great strength, having a trifling wall about it, in circuit

near five miles, and two in length. This Torre d'Asinelli, ascended by

447 steps of a foot rise, seems exceedingly high, is very narrow, and the

more conspicuous from another tower called Garisendi, so artificially

built of brick (which increases the wonder) that it seems ready to fall.

It is not now so high as the other; but they say the upper part was

formerly taken down, for fear it should really fall, and do mischief.

Next, we went to see an imperfect church, called St. Petronius, showing

the intent of the founder, had he gone on. From this, our guide led us to

the schools, which indeed are very magnificent. Thence to St. Dominic's,

where that saint's body lies richly enshrined. The stalls, or seats, of

this goodly church have the history of the Bible inlaid with several

woods, very curiously done, the work of one Fr. Damiano di Bergamo, and a

friar of that order. Among other relics, they show the two books of

Esdras, written with his own hand. Here lie buried Jac. Andreas, and

divers other learned persons. To the church joins the convent, in the

quadrangle whereof are old cypresses, said to have been planted by their

saint.

Then we went to the palace of the Legate; a fair brick building, as are

most of the houses and buildings, full of excellent carving and moldings,

so as nothing in stone seems to be better finished or more ornamental;

witness those excellent columns to be seen in many of their churches,

convents, and public buildings; for the whole town is so cloistered, that

one may pass from house to house through the streets without being

exposed either to rain or sun.

Before the stately hall of this palace stands the statue of Paul IV. and

divers others; also the monument of the coronation of Charles V. The

piazza before it is the most stately in Italy, St. Mark's at Venice only

excepted. In the center of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble figure in

copper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a rich vest of cloth of

tissue, and several other ornaments, according to the fashion of his

country, which much pleased me; he was a young handsome person, of the

most stately mien.

I would fain have seen the library of St. Savior, famous for the number

of rare manuscripts; but could not, so we went to St. Francis, a glorious

pile, and exceedingly adorned within.

After dinner I inquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano, to whom I

brought recommendations from Rome: this learned person invented, or found

out, the composition of the _lapis illuminabilis_, or phosphorus. He

showed me their property (for he had several), being to retain the light

of the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition, by a

particular way of calcination. Some of these presented a blue color,

like the flame of brimstone, others like coals of a kitchen fire. The

rest of the afternoon was taken up in St. Michael in Bosco, built on a

steep hill on the edge of the city, for its fabric, pleasant shade and

groves, cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most delicious

retirements I ever saw; art and nature contending which shall exceed; so

as till now I never envied the life of a friar. The whole town and

country to a vast extent are under command of their eyes, almost as far

as Venice itself. In this convent there are many excellent paintings of

Guido Reni; above all, the little cloister of eight faces, painted by

Caracci in _fresco_. The carvings in wood, in the sacristy, are

admirable, as is the inlaid work about the chapel, which even emulates

the best paintings; the work is so delicate and tender. The paintings of

the Savior are of Caracci and Leonardo, and there are excellent things of

Raphael which we could not see.

In the church of St. John is a fine piece of St. Cecilia, by Raphael. As

to other paintings, there is in the church of St. Gregory an excellent

picture of a Bishop giving the habit of St. Bernard to an armed soldier,

with several other figures in the piece, the work of Guerchino. Indeed,

this city is full of rare pieces, especially of Guido Domenico, and a

virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living, who has painted many excellent

pieces, and imitates Guido so well, that many skillful artists have been

deceived.

At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy, by Reni, after the manner

of Caravaggio, but better; and here they showed us that famous piece of

Christ calling St. Matthew, by Annibal Caracci. The Marquis Magniani has

the whole frieze of his hall painted in _fresco_ by the same hand.

Many of the religious men nourish those lapdogs which the ladies are so

fond of, and which they here sell. They are a pigmy sort of spaniels,

whose noses they break when puppies; which, in my opinion, deforms them.

At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the dormitory of St.

Michael, I found a paper pasted near the window, containing the

dimensions of most of the famous churches in Italy compared with their

towers here, and the length of this gallery, a copy whereof I took.

-------------------------+-------------+---------------+--------------

| Braccia[32] | Piede | Canna

| | di Bolognia| | di Roma.

-------------------------+-------------+---------------+--------------

| | |

St. Pietro di Roma, longo| 284 | 473 | 84

Cupalo del muro, alta | 210 | 350 | 60

Torre d'Asinello, alto | 208-4/5 | 348 | 59 pr.^{mi} 6

Dormitorio de St. Mich. a| | |

Bologn. longo | 254 | 423 | 72-1/2

-------------------------+-----------+-----------------+--------------

[Footnote 32: A measure of half an ell.]

From hence being brought to a subterranean territory of cellars, the

courteous friars made us taste a variety of excellent wines; and so we

departed to our inn.

The city is famous also for sausages; and here is sold great quantities

of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo, Caviare, etc., which makes some of

their shops perfume the streets with no agreeable smell. We furnished

ourselves with wash balls, the best being made here, and being a

considerable commodity. This place has also been celebrated for lutes

made by the old masters, Mollen, Hans Frey, and Nicholas Sconvelt, which

were of extraordinary price; the workmen were chiefly Germans. The cattle

used for draught in this country (which is very rich and fertile,

especially in pasturage) are covered with housings of linen fringed at

the bottom, that dangle about them, preserving them from flies, which in

summer are very troublesome.

[Sidenote: FERRARA]

From this pleasant city, we proceeded toward Ferrara, carrying with us a

bulletino, or bill of health (customary in all these parts of Italy,

especially in the State of Venice) and so put ourselves into a boat that

was towed with horses, often interrupted by the sluices (inventions there

to raise the water for the use of mills, and to fill the artificial

canals) at each of which we stayed till passage was made. We went by the

Castle Bentivoglio, and, about night arrived at an ugly inn called _Mal

Albergo_, agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supped, we embarked

and passed that night through the Fens, where we were so pestered with

those flying glow-worms, called _Luccioli_, that one who had never heard

of them, would think the country full of sparks of fire. Beating some of

them down and applying them to a book, I could read in the dark by the

light they afforded.

Quitting our boat, we took coach, and by morning got to Ferrara, where,

before we could gain entrance, our guns and arms were taken from us of

custom, the lock being taken off before, as we were advised. The city is

in a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The houses and

streets have nothing of beauty, except the palace and church of St.

Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried, and there are some good statues, the

palazzo del Diamante, citadel, church of St. Dominico. The market-place

is very spacious, having in its centre the figure of Nicholao Oläo once

Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in copper. It is, in a word, a dirty town,

and, though the streets be large they remain ill paved; yet it is a

University and now belongs to the Pope. Though there are not many fine

houses in the city, the inn where we lodged was a very noble palace,

having an Angel for its sign.

[Sidenote: VENICE]

We parted from hence about three in the afternoon, and went some of our

way on the canal, and then embarked on the Po; or Padus; by the poets

called Eridanus, where they feign Phæton to have fallen after his rash

attempt, and where Io was metamorphosed into a cow. There was in our

company, among others, a Polonian Bishop, who was exceeding civil to me

in this passage, and afterward did me many kindnesses at Venice. We

supped this night at a place called Corbua, near the ruins of the ancient

city, Adria, which gives name to the Gulf, or Sea. After three miles,

having passed thirty on the Po, we embarked in a stout vessel, and

through an artificial canal, very straight, we entered the Adige, which

carried us by break of day into the Adriatic, and so sailing prosperously

by Chioza (a town upon an island in this sea), and Palestina, we came

over against Malamocco (the chief port and anchorage where our English

merchantmen lie that trade to Venice) about seven at night, after we had

stayed at least two hours for permission to land, our bill of health

being delivered, according to custom. So soon as we came on shore, we

were conducted to the Dogana, where our portmanteaus were visited, and

then we got to our lodging, which was at honest Signor Paulo Rhodomante's

at the Black Eagle, near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of the

town. This journey from Rome to Venice cost me seven pistoles, and

thirteen julios.

June, 1645. The next morning, finding myself extremely weary and beaten

with my journey, I went to one of their bagnios, where you are treated

after the eastern manner, washing with hot and cold water, with oils, and

being rubbed with a kind of strigil of seal-skin, put on the operator's

hand like a glove. This bath did so open my pores, that it cost me one of

the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of necessary caution

in keeping myself warm for some time after; for, coming out, I

immediately began to visit the famous places of the city; and travelers

who come into Italy do nothing but run up and down to see sights, and

this city well deserved our admiration, being the most wonderfully placed

of any in the world, built on so many hundred islands, in the very sea,

and at good distance from the continent. It has no fresh water except

what is reserved in cistern from rain, and such as is daily brought from

_terra firma_ in boats, yet there was no want of it, and all sorts of

excellent provisions were very cheap.

It is said that when the Huns overran Italy, some mean fishermen and

others left the mainland, and fled for shelter to these despicable and

muddy islands, which, in process of time, by industry, are grown to the

greatness of one of the most considerable States, considered as a

Republic, and having now subsisted longer than any of the four ancient

Monarchies, flourishing in great state, wealth, and glory, by the

conquest of great territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece, Candia, Rhodes,

and Sclavonia, and at present challenging the empire of all the Adriatic

Sea, which they yearly espouse by casting a gold ring into it with great

pomp and ceremony, on Ascension-day; the desire of seeing this was one of

the reasons that hastened us from Rome.

The Doge, having heard mass in his robes of state (which are very

particular, after the eastern fashion), together with the Senate in their

gowns, embarked in their gloriously painted, carved, and gilded

Bucentora, environed and followed by innumerable galleys, gondolas, and

boats, filled with spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets,

music, and cannons. Having rowed about a league into the Gulf, the Duke,

at the prow, casts a gold ring and cup into the sea, at which a loud

acclamation is echoed from the great guns of the Arsenal, and at the

Liddo. We then returned.

Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water-coach (for land

ones, there are many old men in this city who never saw one, or rarely a

horse), we rode up and down the channels, which answer to our streets.

These vessels are built very long and narrow, having necks and tails of

steel, somewhat spreading at the beak like a fish's tail, and kept so

exceedingly polished as to give a great lustre; some are adorned with

carving, others lined with velvet (commonly black), with curtains and

tassels, and the seats like couches, to lie stretched on, while he who

rows, stands upright on the very edge of the boat, and, with one oar

bending forward as if he would fall into the sea, rows and turns with

incredible dexterity; thus passing from channel to channel, landing his

fare, or patron, at what house he pleases. The beaks of these vessels are

not unlike the ancient Roman rostrums.

The first public building I went to see was the Rialto, a bridge of one

arch over the grand canal, so large as to admit a galley to row under it,

built of good marble, and having on it, besides many pretty shops, three

ample and stately passages for people without any inconvenience, the two

outmost nobly balustered with the same stone; a piece of architecture

much to be admired. It was evening, and the canal where the Noblesse go

to take the air, as in our Hyde Park, was full of ladies and gentlemen.

There are many times dangerous stops, by reason of the multitude of

gondolas ready to sink one another; and indeed they affect to lean them

on one side, that one who is not accustomed to it, would be afraid of

over-setting. Here they were singing, playing on harpsichords, and other

music, and serenading their mistresses; in another place, racing, and

other pastimes on the water, it being now exceeding hot.

Next day, I went to their Exchange, a place like ours, frequented by

merchants, but nothing so magnificent; from thence, my guide led me to

the Fondigo di Todeschi, which is their magazine, and here many of the

merchants, especially Germans, have their lodging and diet, as in a

college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by Giorgione da

Castelfranco, and Titian himself.

Hence, I passed through the Mercera, one of the most delicious streets in

the world for the sweetness of it, and is all the way on both sides

tapestried as it were with cloth of gold, rich damasks and other silks,

which the shops expose and hang before their houses from the first floor,

and with that variety that for near half the year spent chiefly in this

city, I hardly remember to have seen the same piece twice exposed; to

this add the perfumes, apothecaries' shops, and the innumerable cages of

nightingales which they keep, that entertain you with their melody from

shop to shop, so that shutting your eyes, you would imagine yourself in

the country, when indeed you are in the middle of the sea. It is almost

as silent as the middle of a field, there being neither rattling of

coaches nor trampling of horses. This street, paved with brick, and

exceedingly clean, brought us through an arch into the famous piazza of

St. Mark.

Over this porch stands that admirable clock, celebrated, next to that of

Strasburg, for its many movements; among which, about twelve and six,

which are their hours of Ave Maria, when all the town are on their knees,

come forth the three Kings led by a star, and passing by the image of

Christ in his Mother's arms, do their reverence, and enter into the clock

by another door. At the top of this turret, another automaton strikes the

quarters. An honest merchant told me that one day walking in the piazza,

he saw the fellow who kept the clock struck with this hammer so forcibly,

as he was stooping his head near the bell, to mend something amiss at the

instant of striking, that being stunned, he reeled over the battlements,

and broke his neck. The buildings in this piazza are all arched, on

pillars, paved within with black and white polished marble, even to the

shops, the rest of the fabric as stately as any in Europe, being not only

marble, but the architecture is of the famous Sansovini, who lies buried

in St. Jacomo, at the end of the piazza. The battlements of this noble

range of buildings, are railed with stone, and thick-set with excellent

statues, which add a great ornament. One of the sides is yet much more

Roman-like than the other which regards the sea, and where the church is

placed. The other range is plainly Gothic; and so we entered into St.

Mark's Church, before which stand two brass pedestals exquisitely cast

and figured, which bear as many tall masts painted red, on which, upon

great festivals, they hang flags and streamers. The church is also

Gothic; yet for the preciousness of the materials, being of several rich

marbles, abundance of porphyry, serpentine, etc., far exceeding any in

Rome, St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired the splendid history of

our blessed Savior, composed all of Mosaic over the _facciata_, below

which and over the four chief gates are cast four horses in copper as big

as the life, the same that formerly were transported from Rome by

Constantine to Byzantium, and thence by the Venetians hither.[33] They

are supported by eight porphyry columns, of very great size and value.

Being come into the church, you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but

what is precious. The floor is all inlaid with agates, lazulis,

chalcedons, jaspers, porphyries, and other rich marbles, admirable also

for the work; the walls sumptuously incrusted, and presenting to the

imagination the shapes of men, birds, houses, flowers, and a thousand

varieties. The roof is of most excellent Mosaic; but what most persons

admire is the new work of the emblematic tree at the other passage out of

the church. In the midst of this rich _volto_ rise five cupolas, the

middle very large and sustained by thirty-six marble columns, eight of

which are of precious marbles: under these cupolas is the high altar, on

which is a reliquary of several sorts of jewels, engraven with figures,

after the Greek manner, and set together with plates of pure gold. The

altar is covered with a canopy of ophite, on which is sculptured the

story of the Bible, and so on the pillars, which are of Parian marble,

that support it. Behind these, are four other columns of transparent and

true Oriental alabaster, brought hither out of the mines of Solomon's

Temple, as they report. There are many chapels and notable monuments of

illustrious persons, dukes, cardinals, etc., as Zeno, J. Soranzi, and

others: there is likewise a vast baptistry, of copper. Among other

venerable relics is a stone, on which they say our blessed Lord stood

preaching to those of Tyre and Sidon, and near the door is an image of

Christ, much adorned, esteeming it very sacred, for that a rude fellow

striking it they say, there gushed out a torrent of blood. In one of the

corners lies the body of St. Isidore, brought hither 500 years since from

the island of Chios. A little farther, they show the picture of St.

Dominic and Francis, affirmed to have been made by the Abbot Joachim

(many years before any of them were born). Going out of the church, they

showed us the stone where Alexander III. trod on the neck of the Emperor

Frederick Barbarossa, pronouncing that verse of the psalm, "_super

basiliscum_," etc. The doors of the church are of massy copper. There are

near 500 pillars in this building, most of them porphyry and serpentine,

and brought chiefly from Athens, and other parts of Greece, formerly in

their power. At the corner of the church, are inserted into the main wall

four figures, as big as life, cut in porphyry; which they say are the

images of four brothers who poisoned one another, by which means were

escheated to the Republic that vast treasury of relics now belonging to

the church. At the other entrance that looks toward the sea, stands in a

small chapel that statue of our Lady, made (as they affirm) of the same

stone, or rock, out of which Moses brought water to the murmuring

Israelites at Horeb, or Meriba.

[Footnote 33: They were taken away by Bonaparte to Paris; but in

1815, were sent back to Venice.]

After all that is said, this church is, in my opinion, much too dark and

dismal, and of heavy work; the fabric,--as is much of Venice, both for

buildings and other fashions and circumstances,--after the Greeks, their

next neighbors.

The next day, by favor of the French ambassador, I had admittance with

him to view the Reliquary, called here Tesoro di San Marco, which very

few, even of travelers, are admitted to see. It is a large chamber full

of presses. There are twelve breastplates or pieces of pure golden armor,

studded with precious stones, and as many crowns dedicated to St. Mark,

by so many noble Venetians, who had recovered their wives taken at sea by

the Saracens; many curious vases of agates; the cap, or coronet, of the

Dukes of Venice, one of which had a ruby set on it, esteemed worth

200,000 crowns; two unicorns' horns; numerous vases and dishes of agate,

set thick with precious stones and vast pearls; divers heads of Saints

enchased in gold; a small ampulla, or glass, with our Savior's blood; a

great morsel of the real cross; one of the nails; a thorn; a fragment of

the column to which our Lord was bound, when scourged; the standard or

ensign, of Constantine; a piece of St. Luke's arm; a rib of St. Stephen;

a finger of Mary Magdalen; numerous other things, which I could not

remember. But a priest, first vesting himself in his sacerdotals, with

the stole about his neck, showed us the gospel of St. Mark (their tutelar

patron) written by his own hand, and whose body they show buried in the

church, brought hither from Alexandria many years ago.

The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of Paolo Veronese,

especially the Magdalen.

A French gentleman and myself went to the Courts of Justice, the Senate

House, and Ducal Palace. The first court near this church is almost

wholly built of several colored sorts of marble, like checkerwork on the

outside; this is sustained by vast pillars, not very shapely, but

observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three no two are

alike. Under this fabric is the cloister where merchants meet morning and

evening, as also the grave senators and gentlemen, to confer of state

affairs, in their gowns and caps, like so many philosophers; it is a very

noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle, stood two square

columns of white marble, carved, which they said had been erected to hang

one of their Dukes on, who designed to make himself Sovereign. Going

through a stately arch, there were standing in niches divers statues of

great value, among which is the so celebrated Eve, esteemed worth its

weight in gold; it is just opposite to the stairs where are two

Colossuses of Mars and Neptune, by Sansovino. We went up into a Corridor

built with several Tribunals and Courts of Justice; and by a

well-contrived staircase were landed in the Senate hall, which appears to

be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in Europe, being seventy-six

paces long, and thirty-two in breadth. At the upper end, are the

Tribunals of the Doge, Council of Ten, and Assistants: in the body of the

hall, are lower ranks of seats, capable of containing 1,500 Senators; for

they consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over the Duke's throne are the

paintings of the Final Judgment, by Tintoret, esteemed among the best

pieces in Europe. On the roof are the famous Acts of the Republic,

painted by several excellent masters, especially Bassano; next them, are

the effigies of the several Dukes, with their Elogies. Then, we turned

into a great Court painted with the Battle of Lepanto, an excellent

piece; afterward, into the Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted by the

most celebrated masters. From hence, by the special favor of an

Illustrissimo, we were carried to see the private Armory of the Palace,

and so to the same court we first entered, nobly built of polished white

marble, part of which is the Duke's Court, _pro tempore_; there are two

wells adorned with excellent work in copper. This led us to the seaside,

where stand those columns of ophite stone in the entire piece, of a great

height, one bearing St. Mark's Lion, the other St. Theodorus: these

pillars were brought from Greece, and set up by Nicholas Baraterius, the

architect; between them public executions are performed.

Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of the Island of St. George,

the galleys, gondolas, and other vessels passing to and fro, we walked

under the cloister on the other side of this goodly piazza, being a most

magnificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went into the

_Zecca_, or mint; at the entrance, stand two prodigious giants, or

Hercules, of white marble; we saw them melt, beat, and coin silver, gold,

and copper. We then went up into the Procuratory, and a library of

excellent MSS. and books belonging to it and the public. After this, we

climbed up the tower of St. Mark, which we might have done on horseback,

as it is said one of the French Kings did; there being no stairs, or

steps, but returns that take up an entire square on the arches forty

feet, broad enough for a coach. This steeple stands by itself, without

any church near it, and is rather a watch tower in the corner of the

great piazza, 230 feet in height, the foundation exceeding deep; on the

top, is an angel, that turns with the wind; and from hence is a prospect

down the Adriatic, as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side, with the

surprising sight of this miraculous city, lying in the bosom of the sea,

in the shape of a lute, the numberless islands tacked together by no

fewer than 450 bridges. At the foot of this tower, is a public tribunal

of excellent work, in white marble polished, adorned with several brass

statues and figures of stone and mezzo-relievo, the performance of some

rare artist.

It was now Ascension-week, and the great mart, or fair, of the whole year

was kept, everybody at liberty and jolly; the noblemen stalking with

their ladies on _choppines_. These are high-heeled shoes, particularly

affected by these proud dames, or, as some say, invented to keep them at

home, it being very difficult to walk with them; whence, one being asked

how he liked the Venetian dames, replied, they were "_mezzo carne, mezzo

legno_," half flesh, half wood, and he would have none of them. The truth

is, their garb is very odd, as seeming always in masquerade; their other

habits also totally different from all nations. They wear very long,

crisp hair, of several streaks and colors, which they make so by a wash,

disheveling it on the brims of a broad hat that has no crown, but a hole

to put out their heads by; they dry them in the sun, as one may see them

at their windows. In their tire, they set silk flowers and sparkling

stones, their petticoats coming from their very arm-pits, so that they

are near three quarters and a half apron; their sleeves are made

exceedingly wide, under which their shift-sleeves as wide, and commonly

tucked up to the shoulder, showing their naked arms, through false

sleeves of tiffany, girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of point

richly tagged about their shoulders and other places of their body, which

they usually cover with a kind of yellow veil of lawn, very transparent.

Thus attired, they set their hands on the heads of two matron-like

servants, or old women, to support them, who are mumbling their beads. It

is ridiculous to see how these ladies crawl in and out of their gondolas,

by reason of their _choppines_; and what dwarfs they appear, when taken

down from their wooden scaffolds; of these I saw near thirty together,

stalking half as high again as the rest of the world. For courtesans, or

the citizens, may not wear _choppines_, but cover their bodies and faces

with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta, or lustrée, out of which

they now and then dart a glance of their eye, the whole face being

otherwise entirely hid with it: nor may the common misses take this

habit; but go abroad barefaced. To the corner of these virgin-veils hang

broad but flat tassels of curious Point de Venice. The married women go

in black veils. The nobility wear the same color, but a fine cloth lined

with taffeta, in summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrels, in the

winter, which all put on at a certain day, girt with a girdle embossed

with silver, the vest not much different from what our Bachelors of Arts

wear in Oxford, and a hood of cloth, made like a sack, cast over their

left shoulder, and a round cloth black cap fringed with wool, which is

not so comely; they also wear their collar open, to show the diamond

button of the stock of their shirt. I have never seen pearls for color

and bigness comparable to what the ladies wear, most of the noble

families being very rich in jewels, especially pearls, which are always

left to the son, or brother who is destined to marry; which the eldest

seldom do. The Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's, etc.

of damask, very stately. Nor was I less surprised with the strange

variety of the several nations seen every day in the streets and piazzas;

Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians, Moors, Greeks, Sclavonians, some with

their targets and bucklers, and all in their native fashions, negotiating

in this famous Emporium, which is always crowded with strangers.

This night, having with my Lord Bruce taken our places before we went to

the Opera, where comedies and other plays are represented in recitative

music, by the most excellent musicians, vocal and instrumental, with

variety of scenes painted and contrived with no less art of perspective,

and machines for flying in the air, and other wonderful notions; taken

together, it is one of the most magnificent and expensive diversions the

wit of man can invent. The history was, Hercules in Lydia; the scenes

changed thirteen times. The famous voices, Anna Rencia, a Roman, and

reputed the best treble of women; but there was an eunuch who, in my

opinion, surpassed her; also a Genoese that sung an incomparable bass.

This held us by the eyes and ears till two in the morning, when we went

to the Chetto de san Felice, to see the noblemen and their ladies at

basset, a game at cards which is much used; but they play not in public,

and all that have inclination to it are in masquerade, without speaking

one word, and so they come in, play, lose or gain, and go away as they

please. This time of license is only in carnival and this Ascension-week;

neither are their theatres open for that other magnificence, or for

ordinary comedians, save on these solemnities, they being a frugal and

wise people, and exact observers of all sumptuary laws.

There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy Land, I had resolved

to embark, intending to see Jerusalem, and other parts of Syria, Egypt

and Turkey; but after I had provided all necessaries, laid in snow to

cool our drink, bought some sheep, poultry, biscuit, spirits, and a

little cabinet of drugs in case of sickness, our vessel (whereof Captain

Powell was master), happened to be pressed for the service of the State,

to carry provisions to Candia, now newly attacked by the Turks; which

altogether frustrated my design, to my great mortification.

[Sidenote: PADUA]

On the ... of June, we went to Padua, to the fair of their St. Anthony,

in company of divers passengers. The first _terra firma_ we landed at was

Fusina, being only an inn where we changed our barge, and were then drawn

up by horses through the river Brenta, a straight channel as even as a

line for twenty miles, the country on both sides deliciously adorned with

country villas and gentlemen's retirements, gardens planted with oranges,

figs, and other fruit, belonging to the Venetians. At one of these villas

we went ashore to see a pretty contrived palace. Observable in this

passage was buying their water of those who farm the sluices; for this

artificial river is in some places so shallow, that reserves of water are

kept with sluices, which they open and shut with a most ingenious

invention, or engine, governed even by a child. Thus they keep up the

water, or let it go, till the next channel be either filled by the stop,

or abated to the level of the other; for which every boat pays a certain

duty. Thus, we stayed near half an hour and more, at three several

places, so as it was evening before we got to Padua. This is a very

ancient city, if the tradition of Antenor's, being the founder, be not a

fiction; but thus speaks the inscription over a stately gate:

"_Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agrum

fertilitatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit, anno ante

Christum natum M. Cxviii; Senatus autem Venetus his belli

propugnaculis ornavit._"

The town stands on the river Padus, whence its name, and is generally

built like Bologna, on arches and on brick, so that one may walk all

around it, dry, and in the shade; which is very convenient in these hot

countries, and I think I was never sensible of so burning a heat as I

was this season, especially the next day, which was that of the fair,

filled with noble Venetians, by reason of a great and solemn procession

to their famous cathedral. Passing by St. Lorenzo, I met with this

subscription:

"_Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem

Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumq; fuga,

Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem,

Quem tegit hic humili marmore cæsa domus._"

Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his work. Being now come to St. Antony's

(the street most of the way straight, well built, and outside excellently

painted in _fresco_), we surveyed the spacious piazza, in which is

erected a noble statue of copper of a man on horseback, in memory of one

Catta Malata, a renowned captain. The church, _à la Greca_, consists of

five handsome cupolas, leaded. At the left hand within is the tomb of St.

Antony and his altar, about which a mezzo-relievo of the miracles

ascribed to him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by the three

famous sculptors, Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus, and Hieronymus

Compagno. A little higher is the choir, walled parapet-fashion, with

sundry colored stone, half relievo, the work of Andrea Reccij. The altar

within is of the same metal, which, with the candlestick and bases, is,

in my opinion, as magnificent as any in Italy. The wainscot of the choir

is rarely inlaid and carved. Here are the sepulchres of many famous

persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, etc.; and among the rest, one for an

exploit at sea, has a galley exquisitely carved thereon. The procession

bore the banners with all the treasure of the cloister, which was a very

fine sight.

Hence, walking over the Prato delle Valle, I went to see the convent of

St. Justina, than which I never beheld one more magnificent. The church

is an excellent piece of architecture, of Andrea Palladio, richly paved,

with a stately cupola that covers the high altar enshrining the ashes of

that saint. It is of _pietra-commessa_, consisting of flowers very

naturally done. The choir is inlaid with several sorts of wood

representing the holy history, finished with exceeding industry. At the

far end, is that rare painting of St. Justina's Martyrdom, by Paolo

Veronese; and a stone on which they told us divers primitive Christians

had been decapitated. In another place (to which leads a small cloister

well painted) is a dry well, covered with a brass-work grate, wherein are

the bones of divers martyrs. They show also the bones of St. Luke, in an

old alabaster coffin; three of the Holy Innocents; and the bodies of St.

Maximus and Prosdocimus.[34] The dormitory above is exceedingly

commodious and stately; but what most pleased me, was the old cloister so

well painted with the legendary saints, mingled with many ancient

inscriptions, and pieces of urns dug up, it seems, at the foundation of

the church. Thus, having spent the day in rambles, I returned the next

day to Venice.

[Footnote 34: St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua.]

[Sidenote: VENICE]

The arsenal is thought to be one of the best furnished in the world. We

entered by a strong port, always guarded, and, ascending a spacious

gallery, saw arms of back, breast, and head, for many thousands; in

another were saddles; over them, ensigns taken from the Turks. Another

hall is for the meeting of the Senate; passing a graff, are the smiths'

forges, where they are continually employed on anchors and iron work.

Near it is a well of fresh water, which they impute to two rhinoceros's

horns which they say lie in it, and will preserve it from ever being

empoisoned. Then we came to where the carpenters were building their

magazines of oars, masts, etc., for an hundred galleys and ships, which

have all their apparel and furniture near them. Then the foundry, where

they cast ordnance; the forge is 450 paces long, and one of them has

thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon, weighing 16,573 pounds, cast

while Henry the Third dined, and put into a galley built, rigged, and

fitted for launching within that time. They have also arms for twelve

galeasses, which are vessels to row, of almost 150 feet long, and thirty

wide, not counting prow or poop, and contain twenty-eight banks of oars,

each seven men, and to carry 1,300 men, with three masts. In another, a

magazine for fifty galleys, and place for some hundreds more. Here stands

the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so contrived that the slaves

are not seen, having on the poop a throne for the Doge to sit, when he

goes in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. Here is also a gallery of 200

yards long for cables, and above that a magazine of hemp. Opposite these,

are the saltpetre houses, and a large row of cells, or houses, to

protect their galleys from the weather. Over the gate, as we go out, is a

room full of great and small guns, some of which discharge six times at

once. Then, there is a court full of cannon, bullets, chains, grapples,

grenadoes, etc., and over that arms for 800,000 men, and by themselves

arms for 400, taken from some that were in a plot against the state;

together with weapons of offense and defense for sixty-two ships;

thirty-two pieces of ordnance, on carriages taken from the Turks, and one

prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, it is not to be reckoned up what this

large place contains of this sort. There were now twenty-three galleys,

and four galley-grossi, of 100 oars to a side. The whole arsenal is

walled about, and may be in compass about three miles, with twelve towers

for the watch, besides that the sea environs it. The workmen, who are

ordinarily 500, march out in military order, and every evening receive

their pay through a small hole in the gate where the governor lives.

The next day, I saw a wretch executed, who had murdered his master, for

which he had his head chopped off by an ax that slid down a frame of

timber, between the two tall columns in St. Mark's piazza, at the

sea-brink; the executioner striking on the ax with a beetle; and so the

head fell off the block.

Hence, by Gudala, we went to see Grimani's Palace, the portico whereof is

excellent work. Indeed, the world cannot show a city of more stately

buildings, considering the extent of it, all of square stone, and as

chargeable in their foundations as superstructure, being all built on

piles at an immense cost. We returned home by the church of St. Johanne

and Paulo, before which is, in copper, the statue of Bartolomeo Colone,

on horseback, double gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of Andrea

Verrochio, a Florentine. This is a very fine church, and has in it many

rare altarpieces of the best masters, especially that on the left hand,

of the Two Friars slain, which is of Titian.

The day after, being Sunday, I went over to St. George's to the ceremony

of the schismatic Greeks, who are permitted to have their church, though

they are at defiance with Rome. They allow no carved images, but many

painted, especially the story of their patron and his dragon. Their rites

differ not much from the Latins, save that of communicating in both

species, and distribution of the holy bread. We afterward fell into a

dispute with a Candiot, concerning the procession of the Holy Ghost. The

church is a noble fabric.

The church of St. Zachary is a Greek building, by Leo IV., Emperor, and

has in it the bones of that prophet, with divers other saints. Near this,

we visited St. Luke's, famous for the tomb of Aretin.

Tuesday, we visited several other churches, as Santa Maria, newly

incrusted with marble on the outside, and adorned with porphyry, ophite,

and Spartan stone. Near the altar and under the organ, are sculptures,

that are said to be of the famous artist Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul

I went purposely, to see the tomb of Titian. Then to St. John the

Evangelist, where among other heroes, lies Andrea Baldarius, the inventor

of oars applied to great vessels for fighting.

We also saw St. Roche, the roof whereof is, with the school, or hall, of

that rich confraternity, admirably painted by Tintoretto, especially the

Crucifix in the _sacristia_. We saw also the church of St. Sebastian, and

Carmelites' monastery.

Next day, taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I passed to the island of St.

George Maggiore, where is a Convent of Benedictines, and a well-built

church of Andrea Palladio, the great architect. The pavement, cupola,

choir, and pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The cloister has a fine

garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, though this is an island a

little distant from the city; it has also an olive orchard, all environed

by the sea. The new cloister now building has a noble staircase paved

with white and black marble.

From hence, we visited St. Spirito, and St. Laurence, fair churches in

several islands; but most remarkable is that of the Padri Olivetani, in

St. Helen's island, for the rare paintings and carvings, with inlaid

work, etc.

[Sidenote: PADUA]

The next morning, we went again to Padua, where, on the following day, we

visited the market, which is plentifully furnished, and exceedingly

cheap. Here we saw the great hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of

the most magnificent in Europe; its ascent is by steps a good height, of

a reddish marble polished, much used in these parts, and happily found

not far off; it is almost 200 paces long, and forty in breadth, all

covered with lead, without any support of columns. At the further end

stands the bust, in white marble, of Titus Livius, the historian. In this

town is the house wherein he was born, full of inscriptions, and pretty

fair.

Near to the monument of Speron Speroni, is painted on the ceiling the

celestial zodiac, and other astronomical figures; without side, there is

a corridor, in manner of a balcony, of the same stone; and at the entry

of each of the three gates is the head of some famous person, as Albert

Eremitano, Julio Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the piazza is

the Podesta's and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built; but above all,

the Monte Pietà, the front whereof is of most excellent architecture.

This is a foundation of which there is one in most of the cities in

Italy, where there is a continual bank of money to assist the poorer

sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, together with magazines

for deposit of goods, till redeemed.

Hence, to the Schools of this flourishing and ancient University,

especially for the study of physic and anatomy. They are fairly built in

quadrangle, with cloisters beneath, and above with columns. Over the

great gate are the arms of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St.

Mark.

_Sic ingredere, ut teipso quotidie doctior; sic egredere ut indies

Patriæ Christianæq; Republicæ utilior evadas; ita demùm Gymnasium à

te felicitèr se ornatum existimabit._