On the 4th I returned, with no little regret, for the confusion that

threatened us. Resolving to possess myself in some quiet, if it might be,

in a time of so great jealousy, I built by my brother's permission, a

study, made a fish-pond, an island, and some other solitudes and

retirements at Wotton; which gave the first occasion of improving them to

those waterworks and gardens which afterward succeeded them, and became

at that time the most famous of England.

12th July, 1643. I sent my black menage horse and furniture with a friend

to his Majesty, then at Oxford.

23d July, 1643. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myself; but,

finding it impossible to evade the doing very unhandsome things, and

which had been a great cause of my perpetual motions hitherto between

Wotton and London, October the 2d, I obtained a license of his Majesty,

dated at Oxford and signed by the King, to travel again.

6th November, 1643. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir Ralph

Whitfield's, at Blechingley (whither both my brothers had conducted me),

I arrived at London on the 7th, and two days after took boat at the

Tower-wharf, which carried me as far as Sittingbourne, though not without

danger, I being only in a pair of oars, exposed to a hideous storm: but

it pleased God that we got in before the peril was considerable. From

thence, I went by post to Dover, accompanied with one Mr. Thicknesse, a

very dear friend of mine.

11th November, 1643. Having a reasonable good passage, though the weather

was snowy and untoward enough, we came before Calais, where, as we went

on shore, mistaking the tide, our shallop struck on the sands, with no

little danger; but at length we got off.

Calais is considered an extraordinary well-fortified place, in the old

castle and new citadel regarding the sea. The haven consists of a long

bank of sand, lying opposite to it. The market place and the church are

remarkable things, besides those relics of our former dominion there. I

remember there were engraven in stone, upon the front of an ancient

dwelling which was showed us, these words in English--"God save the

King," together with the name of the architect and date. The walls of the

town are substantial; but the situation toward the land is not pleasant,

by reason of the marshes and low grounds about it.

12th November, 1643. After dinner we took horse with the Messagere,

hoping to have arrived at Boulogne that night; but there fell so great a

snow, accompanied with hail, rain, and sudden darkness, that we had much

ado to gain the next village; and in this passage, being to cross a

valley by a causeway, and a bridge built over a small river, the rain

that had fallen making it an impetuous stream for near a quarter of a

mile, my horse slipping had almost been the occasion of my perishing. We

none of us went to bed; for the soldiers in those parts leaving little in

the villages, we had enough to do to get ourselves dry, by morning,

between the fire and the fresh straw. The next day early, we arrived at

Boulogne.

This is a double town, one part of it situate on a high rock, or downs;

the other, called the lower town, is yet with a great declivity toward

the sea; both of them defended by a strong castle, which stands on a

notable eminence. Under the town runs the river, which is yet but an

inconsiderable brook. Henry VIII., in the siege of this place is said to

have used those great leathern guns which I have since beheld in the

Tower of London, inscribed, "_Non Marte opus est cui non deficit

Mercurius_"; if at least the history be true, which my Lord Herbert

doubts.

The next morning, in some danger of parties [Spanish] surprising us, we

came to Montreuil, built on the summit of a most conspicuous hill,

environed with fair and ample meadows; but all the suburbs had been from

time to time ruined, and were now lately burnt by the Spanish inroads.

This town is fortified with two very deep dry ditches; the walls about

the bastions and citadel are a noble piece of masonry. The church is more

glorious without than within; the market place large; but the inhabitants

are miserably poor. The next day, we came to Abbeville, having passed all

this way in continual expectation of the volunteers, as they call them.

This town affords a good aspect toward the hill from whence we descended:

nor does it deceive us; for it is handsomely built, and has many pleasant

and useful streams passing through it, the main river being the Somme,

which discharges itself into the sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the

town. The principal church is a very handsome piece of Gothic

architecture, and the ports and ramparts sweetly planted for defense and

ornament. In the morning, they brought us choice of guns and pistols to

sell at reasonable rates, and neatly made, being here a merchandise of

great account, the town abounding in gunsmiths.

[Sidenote: ST. DENIS]

[Sidenote: PARIS]

Hence we advanced to Beauvais, another town of good note, and having the

first vineyards we had seen. The next day to Beaumont, and the morrow to

Paris, having taken our repast at St. Denis, two leagues from that great

city. St. Denis is considerable only for its stately cathedral, and the

dormitory of the French kings, there inhumed as ours at Westminster

Abbey. The treasury is esteemed one of the richest in Europe. The church

was built by King Dagobert,[15] but since much enlarged, being now 390

feet long, 100 in breadth, and 80 in height, without comprehending the

cover: it has also a very high shaft of stone, and the gates are of

brass. Here, while the monks conducted us, we were showed the ancient and

modern sepulchers of their kings, beginning with the founder to Louis his

son, with Charles Martel and Pepin, son and father of Charlemagne. These

lie in the choir, and without it are many more: among the rest that of

Bertrand du Guesclin, Constable of France; in the chapel of Charles V.,

all his posterity; and near him the magnificent sepulcher of Francis I.,

with his children, wars, victories, and triumphs engraven in marble. In

the nave of the church lies the catafalque, or hearse, of Louis XIII.,

Henry II., a noble tomb of Francis II., and Charles IX. Above are bodies

of several Saints; below, under a state of black velvet, the late Louis

XIII., father of this present monarch. Every one of the ten chapels, or

oratories, had some Saints in them; among the rest, one of the Holy

Innocents. The treasury is kept in the sacristy above, in which are

crosses of massy gold and silver, studded with precious stones, one of

gold three feet high, set with sapphires, rubies, and great oriental

pearls. Another given by Charles the Great, having a noble amethyst in

the middle of it, stones and pearls of inestimable value. Among the still

more valuable relics are, a nail from our Savior's Cross, in a box of

gold full of precious stones; a crucifix of the true wood of the Cross,

carved by Pope Clement III., enchased in a crystal covered with gold; a

box in which is some of the Virgin's hair; some of the linen in which our

blessed Savior was wrapped at his nativity; in a huge reliquary, modeled

like a church, some of our Savior's blood, hair, clothes, linen with

which he wiped the Apostles' feet; with many other equally authentic

toys, which the friar who conducted us would have us believe were

authentic relics. Among the treasures is the crown of Charlemagne, his

seven-foot high scepter and hand of justice, the agraffe of his royal

mantle, beset with diamonds and rubies, his sword, belt, and spurs of

gold; the crown of St. Louis, covered with precious stones, among which

is one vast ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 300 carats (under

which is set one of the thorns of our blessed Savior's crown), his

sword, seal, and hand of justice. The two crowns of Henry IV., his

scepter, hand of justice, and spurs. The two crowns of his son Louis. In

the cloak-royal of Anne of Bretagne is a very great and rare ruby. Divers

books covered with solid plates of gold, and studded with precious

stones. Two vases of beryl, two of agate, whereof one is esteemed for its

bigness, color, and embossed carving, the best now to be seen: by a

special favor I was permitted to take the measure and dimensions of it;

the story is a Bacchanalia and sacrifice to Priapus; a very holy thing

truly, and fit for a cloister! It is really antique, and the noblest

jewel there. There is also a large gondola of chrysolite, a huge urn of

porphyry, another of calcedon, a vase of onyx, the largest I had ever

seen of that stone; two of crystal; a morsel of one of the waterpots in

which our Savior did his first miracle; the effigies of the Queen of

Saba, of Julius, Augustus, Mark Antony, Cleopatra, and others, upon

sapphires, topazes, agates, and cornelians: that of the queen of Saba[16]

has a Moorish face; those of Julius and Nero on agates are rarely colored

and cut. A cup in which Solomon was used to drink, and an Apollo on a

great amethyst. There lay in a window a mirror of a kind of stone said to

have belonged to the poet Virgil. Charlemagne's chessmen, full of Arabic

characters. In the press next the door, the brass lantern full of

crystals, said to have conducted Judas and his company to apprehend our

blessed Savior. A fair unicorn's horn, sent by a king of Persia, about

seven feet long. In another press (over which stands the picture in oil

of their Orleans Amazon with her sword), the effigies of the late French

kings in wax, like ours in Westminster, covered with their robes; with a

world of other rarities. Having rewarded our courteous friar, we took

horse for Paris, where we arrived about five in the afternoon. In the way

were fair crosses of stone carved with fleur-de-lis at every furlong's

end, where they affirm St. Denis rested and laid down his head after

martyrdom, carrying it from the place where this monastery is builded. We

lay at Paris at the Ville de Venice; where, after I had something

refreshed, I went to visit Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resident

with the French king.

[Footnote 15: A. D. 630.]

[Footnote 16: Or Sheba.]

5th December, 1643. The Earl of Norwich came as Ambassador extraordinary:

I went to meet him in a coach and six horses, at the palace of Monsieur

de Bassompière, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces,

and rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the

ceremonies, and a very great cavalcade of men of quality, to the Palais

Cardinal, where on the 23d he had audience of the French king, and the

queen Regent his mother, in the golden chamber of presence. From thence,

I conducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denis, and so took my leave.

24th December, 1643. I went with some company to see some remarkable

places without the city: as the Isle, and how it is encompassed by the

Rivers Seine and the Ouse. The city is divided into three parts, whereof

the town is greatest. The city lies between it and the University in form

of an island. Over the Seine is a stately bridge called Pont Neuf, begun

by Henry III. in 1578, finished by Henry IV. his successor. It is all of

hewn freestone found under the streets, but more plentifully at

Montmartre, and consists of twelve arches, in the midst of which ends the

point of an island, on which are built handsome artificers' houses. There

is one large passage for coaches, and two for foot passengers three or

four feet higher, and of convenient breadth for eight or ten to go

abreast. On the middle of this stately bridge, on one side, stands the

famous statue of Henry the Great on horseback, exceeding the natural

proportion by much; and, on the four faces of a stately pedestal (which

is composed of various sorts of polished marbles and rich moldings),

inscriptions of his victories and most signal actions are engraven in

brass. The statue and horse are of copper, the work of the great John di

Bologna, and sent from Florence by Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo the

Second, uncle and cousin to Mary de Medicis, the wife of King Henry,

whose statue it represents. The place where it is erected is inclosed

with a strong and beautiful grate of iron, about which there are always

mountebanks showing their feats to the idle passengers. From hence is a

rare prospect toward the Louvre and suburbs of St. Germains, the Isle du

Palais, and Nôtre Dame. At the foot of this bridge is a water-house, on

the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of Our Savior and the

woman of Samaria pouring water out of a bucket. Above, is a very rare

dial of several motions, with a chime, etc. The water is conveyed by huge

wheels, pumps, and other engines, from the river beneath. The confluence

of the people and multitude of coaches passing every moment over the

bridge, to a new spectator is an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there

are, as that of Nôtre Dame and the Pont-au-Change, etc., fairly built,

with houses of stone, which are laid over this river; only the Pont St.

Anne, landing the suburbs of St. Germains at the Tuileries, is built of

wood, having likewise a water house in the midst of it, and a statue of

Neptune casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much inferior

to the Samaritan.

The University lies southwest on higher ground, contiguous to, but the

lesser part of, Paris. They reckon no less than sixty-five colleges; but

they in nothing approach ours at Oxford for state and order. The

booksellers dwell within the University. The schools (of which more

hereafter) are very regular.

The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honoré, St. Marcel, St. Jaques, St.

Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germains, which last is the largest, and

where the nobility and persons of best quality are seated: and truly

Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the material the houses are

built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of the most gallant

cities in the world; large in circuit, of a round form, very populous,

but situated in a bottom, environed with gentle declivities, rendering

some places very dirty, and making it smell as if sulphur were mingled

with the mud; yet it is paved with a kind of freestone, of near a foot

square, which renders it more easy to walk on than our pebbles in London.

On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Nôtre Dame, erected by

Philip Augustus, but begun by King Robert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists

of a Gothic fabric, sustained with 120 pillars, which make two aisles in

the church round about the choir, without comprehending the chapels,

being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100 high. The choir is inclosed with

stonework graven with the sacred history, and contains forty-five chapels

chancelled with iron. At the front of the chief entrance are statues in

relievo of the kings, twenty-eight in number, from Childebert to the

founder, Philip; and above them are two high square towers, and another

of a smaller size, bearing a spire in the middle, where the body of the

church forms a cross. The great tower is ascended by 389 steps, having

twelve galleries from one to the other. They greatly reverence the

crucifix over the screen of the choir, with an image of the Blessed

Virgin. There are some good modern paintings hanging on the pillars. The

most conspicuous statute is the huge colossal one of St. Christopher;

with divers other figures of men, houses, prospects and rocks, about this

gigantic piece; being of one stone, and more remarkable for its bulk than

any other perfection. This is the prime church of France for dignity,

having archdeacons, vicars, canons, priests, and chaplains in good store,

to the number of 127. It is also the palace of the archbishop. The young

king was there with a great and martial guard, who entered the nave of

the church with drums and fifes, at the ceasing of which I was

entertained with the church music; and so I left him.

4th January, 1644. I passed this day with one Mr. J. Wall, an Irish

gentleman, who had been a friar in Spain, and afterward a reader in St.

Isodore's chair, at Rome; but was, I know not how, getting away, and

pretending to be a soldier of fortune, an absolute cavalier, having, as

he told us, been a captain of horse in Germany. It is certain he was an

excellent disputant, and so strangely given to it that nothing could pass

him. He would needs persuade me to go with him this morning to the

Jesuits' College, to witness his polemical talent. We found the Fathers

in their Church at the Rue St. Antoine, where one of them showed us that

noble fabric, which for its cupola, pavings, incrustations of marble, the

pulpit, altars (especially the high altar), organ, lavatorium, etc., but

above all, for the richly carved and incomparable front I esteem to be

one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in Europe, emulating even

some of the greatest now at Rome itself. But this not being what our

friar sought, he led us into the adjoining convent, where, having shown

us the library, they began a very hot dispute on some points of divinity,

which our cavalier contested only to show his pride, and to that

indiscreet height, that the Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach,

they being put beside all patience. The next day, we went into the

University, and into the College of Navarre, which is a spacious,

well-built quadrangle, having a very noble library.

Thence to the Sorbonne, an ancient fabric built by one Robert de

Sorbonne, whose name it retains, but the restoration which the late

Cardinal de Richelieu has made to it renders it one of the most excellent

modern buildings; the sumptuous church, of admirable architecture, is far

superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole design of the

church, are very magnificent.

We entered into some of the schools, and in that of divinity we found a

grave Doctor in his chair, with a multitude of auditors, who all write as

he dictates; and this they call a Course. After we had sat a little, our

cavalier started up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the doctor;

at which, and especially as he was clad in the Spanish habit, which in

Paris is the greatest bugbear imaginable, the scholars and doctor fell

into such a fit of laughter, that nobody could be heard speak for a

while: but silence being obtained, he began to speak Latin, and made his

apology in so good a style, that their derision was turned to admiration;

and beginning to argue, he so baffled the Professor, that with universal

applause they all rose up, and did him great honors, waiting on us to the

very street and our coach, and testifying great satisfaction.

2d February, 1644. I heard the news of my nephew George's birth, which

was on January 15th, English style, 1644.

3d February, 1644. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to the

buildings is very noble; but the galleries where they sell their petty

merchandise nothing so stately as ours at London, no more than the place

where they walk below, being only a low vault.

The Palaise, as they call the upper part, was built in the time of Philip

the Fair, noble and spacious. The great Hall annexed to it, is arched

with stone, having a range of pillars in the middle, round which, and at

the sides, are shops of all kinds, especially booksellers'. One side is

full of pews for the clerks of the advocates, who swarm here (as ours at

Westminster). At one of the ends stands an altar, at which mass is said

daily. Within are several chambers, courts, treasuries, etc. Above that

is the most rich and glorious Salle d'Audience, the chamber of St.

Louis, and other superior Courts where the Parliament sits, richly gilt

on embossed carvings and frets, and exceedingly beautified.

Within the place where they sell their wares, is another narrower

gallery, full of shops and toys, etc., which looks down into the

prison-yard. Descending by a large pair of stairs, we passed by Sainte

Chapelle, which is a church built by St. Louis, 1242, after the Gothic

manner: it stands on another church, which is under it, sustained by

pillars at the sides, which seem so weak as to appear extraordinary in

the artist. This chapel is most famous for its relics, having as they

pretend, almost the entire crown of thorns: the agate patine, rarely

sculptured, judged one of the largest and best in Europe. There was now a

very beautiful spire erecting. The court below is very spacious, capable

of holding many coaches, and surrounded with shops, especially

engravers', goldsmiths', and watchmakers'. In it are a fair fountain and

portico. The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building,

whereof one side, looking to the river, is inhabited by goldsmiths.

Within the court are private dwellings. The front, looking on the great

bridge, is possessed by mountebanks, operators, and puppet-players. On

the other part, is the every day's market for all sorts of provisions,

especially bread, herbs, flowers, orange trees, choice shrubs. Here is a

shop called NOAH'S ARK, where are sold all curiosities, natural or

artificial, Indian or European, for luxury or use, as cabinets, shells,

ivory, porcelain, dried fishes, insects, birds, pictures, and a thousand

exotic extravagances. Passing hence, we viewed the port Dauphine, an arch

of excellent workmanship; the street bearing the same name, is ample and

straight.

4th February, 1644. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where are a noble

church and palace, heretofore dedicated to the Knights Templar, now

converted to a piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden; but large

and not so pleasant, though built all about with divers considerable

palaces.

The Church of St. Geneviève is a place of great devotion, dedicated to

another of their Amazons, said to have delivered the city from the

English; for which she is esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It stands

on a steep eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by canons

regular. At the Palais Royal Henry IV. built a fair quadrangle of stately

palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of a spacious area, stands on a

noble pedestal a brazen statue of Louis XIII., which, though made in

imitation of that in the Roman capitol, is nothing so much esteemed as

that on the Pont Neuf.

The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St. Honoré, is an excellent

foundation; but above all is the Hôtel Dieu for men and women, near Nôtre

Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charité

gave me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently and christianly the

sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen them served by

noble persons, men and women. They have also gardens, walks, and

fountains. Divers persons are here cut for the stone, with great success,

yearly in May. The two Châtelets (supposed to have been built by Julius

Cæsar) are places of judicature in criminal causes; to which is a strong

prison. The courts are spacious and magnificent.

8th February, 1644. I took coach and went to see the famous Jardine

Royale, which is an inclosure walled in, consisting of all varieties of

ground for planting and culture of medical simples. It is well chosen,

having in it hills, meadows, wood and upland, natural and artificial, and

is richly stored with exotic plants. In the middle of the parterre is a

fair fountain. There is a very fine house, chapel, laboratory, orangery,

and other accommodations for the President, who is always one of the

king's chief physicians.

From hence, we went to the other side of the town, and to some distance

from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the Bastille, which is the

fortress, tower, and magazine of this great city. It is very spacious

within, and there the Grand Master of the artillery has his house, with

fair gardens and walks.

The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble castle, with

magnificent apartments, fit for a royal court, not forgetting the chapel.

It is the chief prison for persons of quality. About it there is a park

walled in, full of deer; and in one part there is a grove of goodly pine

trees.

The next day, I went to see the Louvre with more attention, its several

courts and pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun by Henry IV., and

finished by his son and grandson, is a superb, but mixed structure. The

cornices, moldings, and compartments, with the insertion of several

colored marbles, have been of great expense.

We went through the long gallery, paved with white and black marble,

richly fretted and painted _à fresco_. The front looking to the river,

though of rare work for the carving, yet wants of that magnificence which

a plainer and truer design would have contributed to it.

In the Cour aux Tuileries is a princely fabric; the winding geometrical

stone stairs, with the cupola, I take to be as bold and noble a piece of

architecture as any in Europe of the kind. To this is a _corps de logis_,

worthy of so great a prince. Under these buildings, through a garden in

which is an ample fountain, was the king's printing house, and that

famous letter so much esteemed. Here I bought divers of the classic

authors, poets, and others.

We returned through another gallery, larger, but not so long, where hung

the pictures of all the kings and queens and prime nobility of France.

Descending hence, we were let into a lower very large room, called the

_Salle des Antiques_, which is a vaulted Cimelia, destined for statues

only, among which stands that so celebrated Diana of the Ephesians, said

to be the same which uttered oracles in that renowned Temple. Besides

these colossean figures of marble, I must not forget the huge globe

suspended by chains. The pavings, inlayings, and incrustations of this

Hall, are very rich.

In another more private garden toward the Queen's apartment is a walk, or

cloister, under arches, whose terrace is paved with stones of a great

breadth; it looks toward the river, and has a pleasant aviary, fountain,

stately cypresses, etc. On the river are seen a prodigious number of

barges and boats of great length, full of hay, corn, wood, wine, and

other commodities, which this vast city daily consumes. Under the long

gallery we have described, dwell goldsmiths, painters, statuaries, and

architects, who being the most famous for their art in Christendom have

stipends allowed them by the King. Into that of Monsieur Saracin we

entered, who was then molding for an image of a Madonna to be cast in

gold of a great size to be sent by the Queen Regent to Loretto, as an

offering for the birth of the Dauphin, now the young King.

I finished this day with a walk in the great garden of the Tuileries,

rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or company, by groves, plantations

of tall trees, especially that in the middle, being of elms, the other of

mulberries; and that labyrinth of cypresses; not omitting the noble

hedges of pomegranates, fountains, fish-ponds, and an aviary; but, above

all, the artificial echo, redoubling the words so distinctly; and, as it

is never without some fair nymph singing to its grateful returns;

standing at one of the focuses, which is under a tree or little cabinet

of hedges, the voice seems to descend from the clouds; at another, as if

it was underground. This being at the bottom of the garden, we were let

into another, which being kept with all imaginary accurateness as to the

orangery, precious shrubs, and rare fruits, seemed a Paradise. From a

terrace in this place we saw so many coaches, as one would hardly think

could be maintained in the whole city, going, late as it was in the year,

toward the course, which is a place adjoining, of near an English mile

long, planted with four rows of trees, making a large circle in the

middle. This course is walled about, near breast high, with squared

freestone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, with sculpture and

statues about it, built by Mary di Medicis. Here it is that the gallants

and ladies of the Court take the air and divert themselves, as with us in

Hyde Park, the circle being capable of containing a hundred coaches to

turn commodiously, and the larger of the plantations for five or six

coaches abreast.

Returning through the Tuileries, we saw a building in which are kept wild

beasts for the King's pleasure, a bear, a wolf, a wild boar, a leopard,

etc.

[Sidenote: ST. CLOUD]

27th February, 1644. Accompanied with some English gentlemen, we took

horse to see St. Germains-en-Laye, a stately country house of the King,

some five leagues from Paris. By the way, we alighted at St. Cloud,

where, on an eminence near the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a

garden, for the house is not very considerable, rarely watered and

furnished with fountains, statues, and groves; the walks are very fair;

the fountain of Laocoon is in a large square pool, throwing the water

near forty feet high, and having about it a multitude of statues and

basins, and is a surprising object. But nothing is more esteemed than the

cascade falling from the great steps into the lowest and longest walk

from the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a grotto, or shell-house, on

the summit of the hill, wherein are divers waterworks and contrivances to

wet the spectators; this is covered with a fair cupola, the walls painted

with the Muses, and statues placed thick about it, whereof some are

antique and good. In the upper walks are two perspectives, seeming to

enlarge the alleys, and in this garden are many other ingenious

contrivances. The palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The outer

walls only painted _à fresco_. In the court is a Volary, and the statues

of Charles IX., Henry III., IV., and Louis XIII., on horseback,

mezzo-relievo'd in plaster. In the garden is a small chapel; and under

shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere original,

with others. From the terrace above is a tempest well painted; and thence

an excellent prospect toward Paris, the meadows, and river.

At an inn in this village is a host who treats all the great persons in

princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but they pay well for it, as I

have done. Indeed, the entertainment is very splendid, and not

unreasonable, considering the excellent manner of dressing their meat,

and of the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revelings, as

being out of all noise and observance.

[Sidenote: ST. GERMAINS]

From hence, about a league further, we went to see Cardinal Richelieu's

villa, at Ruell. The house is small, but fairly built, in form of a

castle, moated round. The offices are toward the road, and over against

it are large vineyards, walled in. But, though the house is not of the

greatest, the gardens about it are so magnificent, that I doubt whether

Italy has any exceeding it for all rarities of pleasure. The garden

nearest the pavilion is a parterre, having in the midst divers noble

brass statues, perpetually spouting water into an ample basin, with other

figures of the same metal; but what is most admirable is the vast

inclosure, and variety of ground, in the large garden, containing

vineyards, cornfields, meadows, groves (whereof one is of perennial

greens), and walks of vast length, so accurately kept and cultivated,

that nothing can be more agreeable. On one of these walks, within a

square of tall trees, is a basilisk of copper, which, managed by the

fountaineer, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of itself move

round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape wetting. This leads to the

Citronière, which is a noble conserve of all those rarities; and at the

end of it is the Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oil, as large

as the real one at Rome, so well done, that even a man skilled in

painting, may mistake it for stone and sculpture. The sky and hills,

which seem to be between the arches, are so natural, that swallows and

other birds, thinking to fly through, have dashed themselves against the

wall. I was infinitely taken with this agreeable cheat. At the further

part of this walk is that plentiful, though artificial cascade, which

rolls down a very steep declivity, and over the marble steps and basins,

with an astonishing noise and fury; each basin hath a jetto in it,

flowing like sheets of transparent glass, especially that which rises

over the great shell of lead, from whence it glides silently down a

channel through the middle of a spacious gravel walk, terminating in a

grotto. Here are also fountains that cast water to a great height, and

large ponds, two of which have islands for harbor of fowls, of which

there is store. One of these islands has a receptacle for them built of

vast pieces of rock, near fifty feet high, grown over with moss, ivy,

etc., shaded at a competent distance with tall trees: in this rupellary

nidary do the fowl lay eggs, and breed. We then saw a large and very rare

grotto of shell-work, in the shape of Satyrs, and other wild fancies: in

the middle stands a marble table, on which a fountain plays in divers

forms of glasses, cups, crosses, fans, crowns, etc. Then the fountaineer

represented a shower of rain from the top, met by small jets from below.

At going out, two extravagant musketeers shot us with a stream of water

from their musket barrels. Before this grotto is a long pool into which

ran divers spouts of water from leaden escalop basins. The viewing this

paradise made us late at St. Germains.

The first building of this palace is of Charles V., called the Sage; but

Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it complete; speaking as to the

style of magnificence then in fashion, which was with too great a mixture

of the Gothic, as may be seen in what there is remaining of his in the

old Castle, an irregular piece as built on the old foundation, and having

a moat about it. It has yet some spacious and handsome rooms of state,

and a chapel neatly painted. The new Castle is at some distance, divided

from this by a court, of a lower, but more modern design, built by Henry

IV. To this belong six terraces, built of brick and stone, descending in

cascades toward the river, cut out of the natural hill, having under them

goodly vaulted galleries; of these, four have subterranean grots and

rocks, where are represented several objects in the manner of scenes and

other motions, by force of water, shown by the light of torches only;

among these, is Orpheus with his music; and the animals, which dance

after his harp; in the second, is the King and Dolphin;[17] in the third,

is Neptune sounding his trumpet, his chariot drawn by sea horses; in the

fourth, the story of Perseus and Andromeda; mills; hermitages; men

fishing; birds chirping; and many other devices. There is also a dry grot

to refresh in; all having a fine prospect toward the river, and the

goodly country about it, especially the forest. At the bottom, is a

parterre; the upper terrace nearly half a mile in length, with double

declivities, arched and balustered with stone, of vast and royal cost.

[Footnote 17: Dauphin.]

In the pavilion of the new Castle are many fair rooms, well painted, and

leading into a very noble garden and park, where is a pall-mall, in the

midst of which, on one of the sides, is a chapel, with stone cupola,

though small, yet of a handsome order of architecture. Out of the park

you go into the forest, which being very large, is stored with deer, wild

boars, wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis Court, and Cavallerizzo,

for the menaged horses, are also observable.

[Sidenote: PARIS]

We returned to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the King's, built by

Francis I., and called by that name to absolve him of his oath that he

would not go from Madrid (in which he was prisoner), in Spain, but from

whence he made his escape. This house is also built in a park, and

walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes-hommes, well situated, with a

fair chapel and library.

1st March, 1644. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace in the Rue

de Seine, which is well built. Toward his study and bedchamber joins a

little garden, which, though very narrow, by the addition of a

well-painted perspective, is to appearance greatly enlarged; to this

there is another part, supported by arches in which runs a stream of

water, rising in the aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to flow for

some miles, by being artificially continued in the painting, when it

sinks down at the wall. It is a very agreeable deceit. At the end of this

garden is a little theater, made to change with divers pretty scenes, and

the stage so ordered, with figures of men and women painted on light

boards, and cut out, and, by a person who stands underneath, made to act

as if they were speaking, by guiding them, and reciting words in

different tones, as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet,

where was a neat invention for reflecting lights, by lining divers

sconces with thin shining plates of gilded copper.

In one of the rooms of state was an excellent painting of Poussin, being

a Satyr kneeling; over the chimney, the Coronation of the Virgin, by

Paulo Veronese; another Madonna over the door, and that of Joseph, by

Cigali; in the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta, attended by his page, said to

be of Michael Angelo; the Rape of Proserpine, with a very large landscape

of Correggio. In the next room are some paintings of Primaticcio,

especially the Helena, the naked Lady brought before Alexander, well

painted, and a Ceres. In the bedchamber a picture of the Cardinal de

Liancourt, of Raphael, rarely colored. In the cabinet are divers pieces

of Bassano, two of Polemburg, four of Paulo Brill, the skies a little too

blue. A Madonna of Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone; a Judith of

Mantegna; three women of Jeronimo; one of Stenwick; a Madonna after

Titian, and a Magdalen of the same hand, as the Count esteems it: two

small pieces of Paulo Veronese, being the Martyrdoms of St. Justina and

St. Catherine; a Madonna of Lucas Van Leyden, sent him from our King; six

more of old Bassano; two excellent drawings of Albert; a Magdalen of

Leonardo da Vinci; four of Paulo; a very rare Madonna of Titian, given

him also by our King; the _Ecce Homo_, shut up in a frame of velvet, for

the life and accurate finishing exceeding all description. Some curious

agates, and a chaplet of admirable invention, the intaglios being all on

fruit stones. The Count was so exceeding civil, that he would needs make

his lady go out of her dressing room, that he might show us the

curiosities and pictures in it.

We went thence to visit one Monsieur Perishot, one of the greatest

virtuosos in France, for his collection of pictures, agates, medals, and

flowers, especially tulips and anemonies. The chiefest of his paintings

was a Sebastian, of Titian.

From him we went to Monsieur Frene's, who showed us many rare drawings, a

Rape of Helen in black chalk; many excellent things of Sneiders, all

naked; some of Julio and Michael Angelo; a Madonna of Passignano; some

things of Parmensis, and other masters.

The next morning, being recommended to one Monsieur de Hausse, President

of the Parliament, and once Ambassador at Venice for the French King, we

were very civilly received, and showed his library. Among his paintings

were a rare Venus and Adonis of Veronese, a St. Anthony, after the first

manner of Correggio, and a rare Madonna of Palma.

Sunday, the 6th of March, I went to Charenton, two leagues from Paris, to

hear and see the manner of the French Protestant Church service. The

place of meeting they call the Temple, a very fair and spacious room,

built of freestone, very decently adorned with paintings of the Tables of

the Law, the Lord's Prayer, and Creed. The pulpit stands at the upper end

in the middle, having an inclosure of seats about it, where the Elders

and persons of greatest quality and strangers, sit; the rest of the

congregation on forms and low stools, but none in pews, as in our

churches, to their great disgrace, as nothing so orderly, as here the

stools and other cumber are removed when the assembly rises. I was

greatly pleased with their harmonious singing the Psalms, which they all

learn perfectly well, their children being as duly taught these, as their

catechism.

In our passage, we went by that famous bridge over the Marne, where that

renowned echo returns the voice of a good singer nine or ten times.

7th March, 1644. I set forward with some company toward Fontainebleau, a

sumptuous Palace of the King's, like ours at Hampton Court, about

fourteen leagues from the city. By the way, we pass through a forest so

prodigiously encompassed with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone, heaped

one on another in mountainous heights, that I think the like is nowhere

to be found more horrid and solitary. It abounds with stags, wolves,

boars, and not long after a lynx, or ounce, was killed among them, which

had devoured some passengers. On the summit of one of these gloomy

precipices, intermingled with trees and shrubs, the stones hanging over,

and menacing ruin, is built an hermitage. In these solitudes, rogues

frequently lurk and do mischief (and for whom we were all well appointed

with our carabines); but we arrived safe in the evening at the village,

where we lay at the Horne, going early next morning to the Palace.

This House is nothing so stately and uniform as Hampton Court, but

Francis I. began much to beautify it; most of all Henry IV. (and not a

little) the late King. It abounds with fair halls, chambers, and

galleries; in the longest, which is 360 feet long, and 18 broad, are

painted the Victories of that great Prince, Henry IV. That of Francis I.,

called the grand Gallery, has all the King's palaces painted in it; above

these, in sixty pieces of excellent work in fresco, is the History of

Ulysses, from Homer, by Primaticcio, in the time of Henry III., esteemed

the most renowned in Europe for the design. The Cabinet is full of

excellent pictures, especially a Woman, of Raphael. In the Hall of the

Guards is a piece of tapestry painted on the wall, very naturally,

representing the victories of Charles VII. over our countrymen. In the

Salle des Festins is a rare Chimney-piece, and Henry IV. on horseback, of

white marble, esteemed worth 18,000 crowns; Clementia and Pax, nobly

done. On columns of jasper, two lions of brass. The new stairs, and a

half circular court, are of modern and good architecture, as is a chapel

built by Louis XIII., all of jasper, with several incrustations of marble

through the inside.

Having seen the rooms, we went to the volary, which has a cupola in the

middle of it, great trees and bushes, it being full of birds who drank at

two fountains. There is also a fair tennis court, and noble stables; but

the beauty of all are the gardens. In the Court of the Fountains stand

divers antiquities and statues, especially a Mercury. In the Queen's

Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountain, with numerous other brass statues.

The great Garden, 180 toises long and 154 wide, has in the center a

fountain of Tyber of a Colossean figure of brass, with the Wolf over

Romulus and Remus. At each corner of the garden rises a fountain. In the

garden of the piscina, is a Hercules of white marble; next, is that of

the pines, and without that a canal of an English mile in length, at the

end of which rise three jettos in the form of a fleur-de-lis, of a great

height; on the margin are excellent walks planted with trees. The carps

come familiarly to hand (to be fed). Hence they brought us to a spring,

which they say being first discovered by a dog, gave occasion of

beautifying this place, both with the palace and gardens. The white and

terrific rocks at some distance in the forest, yield one of the most

august and stupendous prospects imaginable. The park about this place is

very large, and the town full of noblemen's houses.

Next morning, we were invited by a painter, who was keeper of the

pictures and rarities, to see his own collection. We were led through a

gallery of old Rosso's work, at the end of which, in another cabinet,

were three Madonnas of Raphael, and two of Andrea del Sarto. In the

Academy where the painter himself wrought, was a St. Michael of Raphael,

very rare; St. John Baptist of Leonardo, and a Woman's head; a Queen of

Sicily, and St. Margaret of Raphael; two more Madonnas, whereof one very

large, by the same hand; some more of del Sarto; a St. Jerome, of Perino

del Vaga; the Rape of Proserpine, very good; and a great number of

drawings.

Returning part of our way to Paris, that day, we visited a house called

_Maison Rouge_, having an excellent prospect, grot, and fountains, one

whereof rises fifty feet, and resembles the noise of a tempest, battle of

guns, etc., at its issue.

Thence to Essone, a house of Monsieur Essling, who is a great virtuoso;

there are many good paintings in it; but nothing so observable as his

gardens, fountains, fish-pools, especially that in a triangular form, the

water cast out by a multitude of heads about it; there is a noble

cascade and pretty baths, with all accommodations. Under a marble table

is a fountain of serpents twisting about a globe.

We alighted next at Corbeil, a town famous for the siege by Henry IV.

Here we slept, and returned next morning to Paris.

18th March, 1644. I went with Sir J. Cotton, a Cambridgeshire Knight, a

journey into Normandy. The first day, we passed by Gaillon, the

Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The gardens are highly commended, but we

did not go in, intending to reach Pontoise by dinner. This town is built

in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the Oise, and is well

refreshed with fountains.

This is the first town in Normandy, and the furthest that the vineyards

extend to on this side of the country, which is fuller of plains, wood,

and inclosures, with some towns toward the sea, very like England.

[Sidenote: ROUEN]

We lay this night at a village, called Magny. The next day, descending a

very steep hill, we dined at Fleury, after riding five leagues down St.

Catherine, to Rouen, which affords a goodly prospect, to the ruins of

that chapel and mountain. This country so abounds with wolves that a

shepherd whom we met, told us one of his companions was strangled by one

of them the day before, and that in the midst of his flock. The fields

are mostly planted with pears and apples, and other cider fruits. It is

plentifully furnished with quarries of stone and slate, and hath iron in

abundance.

I lay at the White Cross, in Rouen, which is a very large city, on the

Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, called the Aubette and Robec.

There stand yet the ruins of a magnificent bridge of stone, now supplied

by one of boats only, to which come up vessels of considerable burden.

The other side of the water consists of meadows, and there have the

Reformed a church.

The Cathedral Nôtre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, by the English;

some English words graven in Gothic characters upon the front seem to

confirm it. The towers and whole church are full of carving. It has three

steeples, with a pyramid; in one of these, I saw the famous bell so much

talked of, thirteen feet in height, thirty-two round, the diameter

eleven, weighing 40,000 pounds.

In the Chapel d'Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that name, lies his body,

with several fair monuments. The choir has behind it a great dragon

painted on the wall, which they say had done much harm to the

inhabitants, till vanquished by St. Romain, their Archbishop; for which

there is an annual procession. It was now near Easter, and many images

were exposed with scenes and stories representing the Passion; made up of

little puppets, to which there was great resort and devotion, with

offerings. Before the church is a fair palace. St. Ouen is another goodly

church and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the King hath lodgings, when

he makes his progress through these parts. The structure, where the Court

of Parliament is kept, is very magnificent, containing very fair halls

and chambers, especially La Chambre Dorée. The town-house is also well

built, and so are some gentlemen's houses; but most part of the rest are

of timber, like our merchants' in London, in the wooden part of the city.

21st March, 1644. On Easter Monday, we dined at Totes, a solitary inn

between Rouen and Dieppe, at which latter place we arrived. This town is

situated between two mountains, not unpleasantly, and is washed on the

north by our English seas.

The port is commodious; but the entrance difficult. It has one very ample

and fair street, in which is a pretty church. The Fort Pollet consists of

a strong earth-work, and commands the haven, as on the other side does

the castle, which is also well fortified, with the citadel before it; nor

is the town itself a little strong. It abounds with workmen, who make and

sell curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shells; and indeed whatever the

East Indies afford of cabinets, porcelain, natural and exotic rarities,

are here to be had, with abundant choice.

23d March, 1644. We passed along the coast by a very rocky and rugged

way, which forced us to alight many times before we came to Havre de

Grace, where we lay that night.

The next morning, we saw the citadel, strong and regular, well stored

with artillery and ammunition of all sorts: the works furnished with fair

brass cannon, having a motto, _Ratio ultima Regum_. The allogements of

the garrison are uniform; a spacious place for drawing up the soldiers,

a pretty chapel, and a fair house for the Governor. The Duke of Richelieu

being now in the fort, we went to salute him; who received us very

civilly, and commanded that we should be showed whatever we desired to

see. The citadel was built by the late Cardinal de Richelieu, uncle of

the present Duke, and may be esteemed one of the strongest in France. The

haven is very capacious.

When we had done here, we embarked ourselves and horses to pass to

Honfleur, about four or five leagues distant, where the Seine falls into

the sea. It is a poor fisher-town, remarkable for nothing so much as the

odd, yet useful habits which the good women wear, of bears' and other

skins, as of rugs at Dieppe, and all along these maritime coasts.

[Sidenote: CAEN]

25th March, 1644. We arrived at Caen, a noble and beautiful town, situate

on the river Orne, which passes quite through it, the two sides of the

town joined only by a bridge of one entire arch. We lay at the Angel,

where we were very well used, the place being abundantly furnished with

provisions, at a cheap rate. The most considerable object is the great

Abbey and Church, large and rich, built after the Gothic manner, having

two spires and middle lantern at the west end, all of stone. The choir

round and large, in the center whereof elevated on a square, handsome,

but plain sepulcher, is this inscription:

"Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi conquestoris,

Gulielmi, dum viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Cenomannorumque

Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris: Cum anno

1562 vesano hæreticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem

nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam

beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, a^o D'ni 1642. D'no Johanne

de Bailhache Assætorii proto priore. D.D."

On the other side are these monkish rhymes:

"Qui rexit rigidos Northmannos, atq. Britannos

Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit,

Et Cenomanensis virtute coërcuit ensis,

Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit.

Rex magnus parvâ jacet hâc Gulielm' in Urnâ,

Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino.

Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus

Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hic obiit."

We went to the castle, which is strong and fair, and so is the

town-house, built on the bridge which unites the two towns. Here are

schools and an University for the Jurists.

The whole town is handsomely built of that excellent stone so well known

by that name in England. I was led to a pretty garden, planted with

hedges of alaternus, having at the entrance a screen at an exceeding

height, accurately cut in topiary work, with well understood

architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, friezes, and other

ornaments, with great curiosity; some of the columns curiously wreathed,

others spiral, all according to art.

[Sidenote: PARIS]

28th March, 1644. We went toward Paris, lying the first night at Evreux,

a Bishop's seat, an ancient town, with a fair cathedral; so the next day

we arrived at Paris.

1st April, 1644. I went to see more exactly the rooms of the fine Palace

of Luxemburg, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains, built by Mary di Medicis,

and I think one of the most noble, entire, and finished piles that is to

be seen, taking it with the garden and all its accomplishments. The

gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history of the

Foundress's Life, rarely designed; at the end of it is the Duke of

Orleans' library, well furnished with excellent books, all bound in

maroquin and gilded, the valance of the shelves being of green velvet,

fringed with gold. In the cabinet joining to it are only the smaller

volumes, with six cabinets of medals, and an excellent collection of

shells and agates, whereof some are prodigiously rich. This Duke being

very learned in medals and plants, nothing of that kind escapes him.

There are other spacious, noble, and princely furnished rooms, which look

toward the gardens, which are nothing inferior to the rest.

The court below is formed into a square by a corridor, having over the

chief entrance a stately cupola, covered with stone: the rest is

cloistered and arched on pilasters of rustic work. The terrace ascending

before the front, paved with white and black marble, is balustered with

white marble, exquisitely polished.

Only the hall below is low, and the staircase somewhat of a heavy design,

but the facia toward the parterre which is also arched and vaulted with

stone, is of admirable beauty and full of sculpture.

The gardens are near an English mile in compass, inclosed with a stately

wall, and in a good air. The parterre is indeed of box, but so rarely

designed and accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes a wonderful

effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided into four squares and

as many circular knots, having in the center a noble basin of marble near

thirty feet in diameter (as I remember), in which a Triton of brass holds

a dolphin, that casts a girandola of water near thirty feet high, playing

perpetually, the water being conveyed from Arceuil by an aqueduct of

stone, built after the old Roman magnificence. About this ample parterre,

the spacious walks and all included, runs a border of freestone, adorned

with pedestals for pots and statues, and part of it near the steps of the

terrace, with a rail and baluster of pure white marble.

The walks are exactly fair, long, and variously descending and so justly

planted with limes, elms, and other trees, that nothing can be more

delicious, especially that of the hornbeam hedge, which being high and

stately, buts full on the fountain.

Toward the further end, is an excavation intended for a vast fish-pool,

but never finished, and near it is an inclosure for a garden of simples,

well kept; and here the Duke keeps tortoises in great number, who use the

pool of water on one side of the garden. Here is also a conservatory for

snow. At the upper part, toward the palace, is a grove of tall elms cut

into a star, every ray being a walk, whose center is a large fountain.

The rest of the ground is made into several inclosures (all hedge-work or

rows of trees) of whole fields, meadows, bocages, some of them containing

divers acres.

Next the street side, and more contiguous to the house, are knots in

trail, or grass work, where likewise runs a fountain. Toward the grotto

and stables, within a wall, is a garden of choice flowers, in which the

duke spends many thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing is wanted to render

this palace and gardens perfectly beautiful and magnificent; nor is it

one of the least diversions to see the number of persons of quality,

citizens and strangers, who frequent it, and to whom all access is freely

permitted, so that you shall see some walks and retirements full of

gallants and ladies; in others melancholy friars; in others, studious

scholars; in others, jolly citizens, some sitting or lying on the grass,

others running and jumping; some playing at bowls and ball, others

dancing and singing; and all this without the least disturbance, by

reason of the largeness of the place.

What is most admirable, you see no gardeners, or men at work, and yet all

is kept in such exquisite order, as if they did nothing else but work; it

is so early in the morning, that all is dispatched and done without the

least confusion.

I have been the larger in the description of this paradise, for the

extraordinary delight I have taken in those sweet retirements. The

Cabinet and Chapel nearer the garden-front have some choice pictures. All

the houses near this are also very noble palaces, especially Petite

Luxemburg. The ascent of the street is handsome from its breadth,

situation, and buildings.

I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques' steeple, esteemed

the highest in the town, from whence I had a full view of the whole city

and suburbs, both which, as I judge, are not so large as London: though

the dissimilitude of their several forms and situations, this being

round, London long,--renders it difficult to determine; but there is no

comparison between the buildings, palaces, and materials, this being

entirely of stone and more sumptuous, though I esteem our piazzas to

exceed theirs.

Hence I took a turn in St. Innocent's churchyard, where the story of the

devouring quality of the ground (consuming bodies in twenty-four hours),

the vast charnels of bones, tombs, pyramids, and sepulchers, took up much

of my time, together with the hieroglyphical characters of Nicholas

Flamel's philosophical work, who had founded this church, and divers

other charitable establishments, as he testifies in his book.

Here divers clerks get their livelihood by inditing letters for poor

maids and other ignorant people who come to them for advice, and to write

for them into the country, both to their sweethearts, parents, and

friends; every large gravestone serving for a table. Joining to this

church is a common fountain, with good relievos upon it.

The next day I was carried to see a French gentleman's curious

collection, which abounded in fair and rich jewels of all sorts of

precious stones, most of them of great sizes and value; agates and

onyxes, some of them admirably colored and antique; nor inferior were his

landscapes from the best hands, most of which he had caused to be copied

in miniature; one of which, rarely painted on stone, was broken by one of

our company, by the mischance of setting it up: but such was the temper

and civility of the gentleman, that it altered nothing of his free and

noble humor.

The next morning, I was had by a friend to the garden of Monsieur Morine,

who, from being an ordinary gardener, is become one of the most skillful

and curious persons in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers,

and insects.

His garden is of an exact oval figure, planted with cypress, cut flat and

set as even as a wall: the tulips, anemones, ranunculuses, crocuses,

etc., are held to be of the rarest, and draw all the admirers of that

kind to his house during the season. He lived in a kind of hermitage at

one side of his garden, where his collection of porcelain and coral,

whereof one is carved into a large crucifix, is much esteemed. He has

also books of prints, by Albert [Durer], Van Leyden, Callot, etc. His

collection of all sorts of insects, especially of butterflies, is most

curious; these he spreads and so medicates, that no corruption invading

them, he keeps them in drawers, so placed as to represent a beautiful

piece of tapestry.

He showed me the remarks he had made on their propagation, which he

promised to publish. Some of these, as also of his best flowers, he had

caused to be painted in miniature by rare hands, and some in oil.

6th April, 1644. I sent my sister my own picture in water colors,[18]

which she requested of me, and went to see divers of the fairest palaces

of the town, as that of Vendôme, very large and stately; Lougueville;

Guise; Condé; Chevereuse; Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris

toward the river.

[Footnote 18: In the first and second editions of the "Diary" many

trifling personal details, such as this mention of the author having

sent his own picture in water colors to his sister, were omitted. It

is not necessary to point them out in detail. They are always of

this personal character; as, among other examples, the mention of

the wet weather preventing the diarist from stirring out, and that

of his coming weary to his lodgings.]

I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by Richelieu to the King,

on condition that it should be called by his name; at this time, the King

resided in it, because of the building of the Louvre. It is a very noble

house, though somewhat low; the galleries, paintings of the most

illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queen's baths, presence-chamber

with its rich carved and gilded roof, theater, and large garden, in which

is an ample fountain, grove, and mall, worthy of remark. Here I also

frequently went to see them ride and exercise the great horse, especially

at the Academy of Monsieur du Plessis, and de Veau, whose schools of that

art are frequented by the nobility; and here also young gentlemen are

taught to fence, dance, play on music, and something in fortification and

the mathematics. The design is admirable, some keeping near a hundred

brave horses, all managed to the great saddle.

12th April, 1644. I took coach, to see a general muster of all the _gens

d'armes_ about the city, in the Bois de Boulogne, before their Majesties

and all the Grandees. They were reputed to be near 20,000, besides the

spectators, who much exceeded them in number. Here they performed all

their motions; and, being drawn up, horse and foot, into several figures,

represented a battle.

[Sidenote: ORLEANS]

The summer now drawing near, I determined to spend the rest of it in some

more remote town on the river Loire; and, on 19th of April, I took leave

of Paris, and, by the way of the messenger, agreed for my passage to

Orleans.

The way from Paris to this city, as indeed most of the roads in France,

is paved with a small square freestone, so that the country does not much

molest the traveler with dirt and ill way, as in England, only 'tis

somewhat hard to the poor horses' feet, which causes them to ride more

temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or _grand pas_, as they call

it. We passed divers walled towns, or villages; among others of note,

Chartres and Etampes, where we lay the first night. This has a fair

church. The next day, we had an excellent road; but had liked to come

short home: for no sooner were we entered two or three leagues into the

Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company

behind us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from the hedges and

frequent covert, slew four upon the spot. Among the slain was a captain

of Swiss, of the regiment of Picardy, a person much lamented. This

disaster made such an alarm in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevôt

Marshal, with his assistants, going in pursuit, brought in two whom they

had shot, and exposed them in the great market place, to see if any would

take cognizance of them. I had great cause to give God thanks for this

escape; when coming to Orleans and lying at the White Cross, I found Mr.

John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr. Secretary. In the night a cat kittened

on my bed, and left on it a young one having six ears, eight legs, two

bodies from the middle downward, and two tails. I found it dead, but

warm, in the morning when I awaked.

21st April, 1644. I went about to view the city, which is well built of

stone, on the side of the Loire. About the middle of the river is an

island, full of walks and fair trees, with some houses. This is

contiguous to the town by a stately stone bridge, reaching to the

opposite suburbs, built likewise on the edge of a hill, from whence is a

beautiful prospect. At one of the extremes of the bridge are strong

towers, and about the middle, on one side, is the statue of the Virgin

Mary, or Pieta, with the dead Christ in her lap, as big as the life. At

one side of the cross, kneels Charles VII., armed, and at the other Joan

d'Arc, armed also like a cavalier, with boots and spurs, her hair

disheveled, as the deliveress of the town from our countrymen, when they

besieged it. The figures are all cast in copper, with a pedestal full of

inscriptions, as well as a fair column joining it, which is all adorned

with fleurs-de-lis and a crucifix, with two saints proceeding (as it

were) from two branches out of its capital. The inscriptions on the cross

are in Latin: "_Mors Christi in cruce nos á contagione, labis et

æternorum morborum sanavit_." On the pedestal: "_Rex in hoc signo hostes

profligavit, et Johanna Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab

impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m.

f._"--"_Octannoque Galliam servitute Britannicâ liberavit. A Domino factum

est illud, et est mirabile in oculis nostris; in quorum memorià hæc

nostræ fidei Insignia_." To this is made an annual procession on 12th of

May, mass being sung before it, attended with great ceremony and

concourse of people. The wine of this place is so strong, that the King's

cup bearers are, as I was assured, sworn never to give the King any of

it: but it is a very noble liquor, and much of it transported into other

countries. The town is much frequented by strangers, especially Germans,

for the great purity of the language here spoken, as well as for divers

other privileges, and the University, which causes the English to make no

long sojourn here, except such as can drink and debauch. The city stands

in the county of Bealse (Blaisois); was once styled a Kingdom, afterward

a Duchy, as at present, belonging to the second son of France. Many

Councils have been held here, and some Kings crowned. The University is

very ancient, divided now by the students into that of four nations,

French, High Dutch, Normans, and Picardines, who have each their

respective protectors, several officers, treasurers, consuls, seals, etc.

There are in it two reasonable fair public libraries, whence one may

borrow a book to one's chamber, giving but a note under hand, which is an

extraordinary custom, and a confidence that has cost many libraries dear.

The first church I went to visit was St. Croix; it has been a stately

fabric, but now much ruined by the late civil wars. They report the tower

of it to have been the highest in France. There is the beginning of a

fair reparation. About this cathedral there is a very spacious cemetery.

The townhouse is also very nobly built, with a high tower to it. The

market place and streets, some whereof are deliciously planted with

limes, are ample and straight, so well paved with a kind of pebble, that

I have not seen a neater town in France. In fine, this city was by

Francis I. esteemed the most agreeable of his vast dominions.

28th April, 1644. Taking boat on the Loire, I went toward Blois, the

passage and river being both very pleasant. Passing Mehun, we dined at

Baugenci, and slept at a little town called St. Dieu. Quitting our bark,

we hired horses to Blois, by the way of Chambord, a famous house of the

King's, built by Francis I. in the middle of a solitary park, full of

deer, inclosed with a wall. I was particularly desirous of seeing this

palace, from the extravagance of the design, especially the staircase,

mentioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen were constantly

employed in this fabric for twelve years: if so, it is wonderful that it

was not finished, it being no greater than divers gentlemen's houses in

England, both for room and circuit. The carvings are indeed very rich and

full. The staircase is devised with four entries, or assents, which cross

one another, so that though four persons meet, they never come in sight,

but by small loopholes, till they land. It consists of 274 steps (as I

remember), and is an extraordinary work, but of far greater expense than

use or beauty. The chimneys of the house appear like so many towers.

About the whole is a large deep moat. The country about is full of corn,

and wine, with many fair noblemen's houses.

[Sidenote: BLOIS]

We arrived at Blois in the evening. The town is hilly, uneven, and

rugged, standing on the side of the Loire, having suburbs joined by a

stately stone bridge, on which is a pyramid with an inscription. At the

entrance of the castle is a stone statue of Louis XII. on horseback, as

large as life, under a Gothic state; and a little below are these words:

"Hic ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo,

Sumpsit honoratâ regia sceptra manu;

Felix quæ tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis!

Gallica non alio principe digna fuit."

Under this is a very wide pair of gates, nailed full of wolves and

wild-boars' heads. Behind the castle the present Duke Gaston had begun a

fair building, through which we walked into a large garden, esteemed for

its furniture one of the fairest, especially for simples and exotic

plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight. On the right hand is a

long gallery full of ancient statues and inscriptions, both of marble and

brass; the length, 300 paces, divides the garden into higher and lower

ground, having a very noble fountain. There is the portrait of a hart,

taken in the forest by Louis XII., which has twenty-four antlers on its

head. In the Collegiate Church of St. Savior, we saw many sepulchres of

the Earls of Blois.

On Sunday, being May-day, we walked up into Pall Mall, very long, and so

noble shaded with tall trees (being in the midst of a great wood), that

unless that of Tours, I had not seen a statelier.

From hence, we proceeded with a friend of mine through the adjoining

forest, to see if we could meet any wolves, which are here in such

numbers that they often come and take children out of the very streets;

yet will not the Duke, who is sovereign here, permit them to be

destroyed. We walked five or six miles outright; but met with none; yet a

gentleman, who was resting himself under a tree, with his horse grazing

by him, told us that half an hour before, two wolves had set upon his

horse, and had in probability devoured him, but for a dog which lay by

him. At a little village at the end of this wood, we ate excellent cream,

and visited a castle builded on a very steep cliff.

Blois is a town where the language is exactly spoken; the inhabitants

very courteous; the air so good, that it is the ordinary nursery of the

King's children. The people are so ingenious, that, for goldsmith's work

and watches, no place in France affords the like. The pastures by the

river are very rich and pleasant.

2d May, 1644. We took boat again, passing by Charmont, a proud castle on

the left hand; before it is a sweet island, deliciously shaded with tall

trees. A little distance from hence, we went on shore at Amboise, a very

agreeable village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue

slate, as the towns on the Loire generally are; but the castle chiefly

invited us, the thickness of whose towers from the river to the top, was

admirable. We entered by the drawbridge, which has an invention to let

one fall, if not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious chambers,

and one staircase is large enough, and sufficiently commodious, to

receive a coach, and land it on the very tower, as they told us had been

done. There is some artillery in it; but that which is most observable is

in the ancient chapel, viz, a stag's head, or branches, hung up by

chains, consisting of twenty browantlers, the beam bigger than a man's

middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed, it is monstrous, and yet I

cannot conceive how it should be artificial they show also the ribs and

vertebræ of the same beast; but these might be made of whalebone.

Leaving the castle, we passed Mont Louis, a village having no houses

above ground but such only as are hewn out of the main rocks of excellent

freestone. Here and there the funnel of a chimney appears on the surface

among the vineyards which are over them, and in this manner they inhabit

the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on one side of the river for many

miles.

[Sidenote: TOURS]

We now came within sight of Tours, where we were designed for the rest of

the time I had resolved to stay in France, the sojournment being so

agreeable. Tours is situate on the east side of a hill on the river

Loire, having a fair bridge of stone called St. Edme; the streets are

very long, straight, spacious, well built, and exceeding clean; the

suburbs large and pleasant, joined to the city by another bridge. Both

the church and monastery of St. Martin are large, of Gothic building,

having four square towers, fair organs, and a stately altar, where they

show the bones and ashes of St. Martin, with other relics. The Mall

without comparison is the noblest in Europe for length and shade, having

seven rows of the tallest and goodliest elms I had ever beheld, the

innermost of which do so embrace each other, and at such a height, that

nothing can be more solemn and majestical. Here we played a party, or

party or two, and then walked about the town walls, built of square

stone, filled with earth, and having a moat. No city in France exceeds it

in beauty, or delight.

6th May, 1644. We went to St. Gatian, reported to have been built by our

countrymen; the dial and clockwork are much esteemed. The church has two

handsome towers and spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very noble

and venerable. To this joins the palace of the Archbishop, consisting

both of old and new building, with many fair rooms, and a fair garden.

Here I grew acquainted with one Monsieur Merey, a very good musician. The

Archbishop treated me very courteously. We visited divers other churches,

chapels, and monasteries for the most part neatly built, and full of

pretty paintings, especially the Convent of the Capuchins, which has a

prospect over the whole city, and many fair walks.

8th May, 1644. I went to see their manufactures in silk (for in this town

they drive a very considerable trade with silk-worms), their pressing and

watering the grograms and camlets, with weights of an extraordinary

poise, put into a rolling engine. Here I took a master of the language,

and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself sometimes at

the Mall, and sometimes about the town. The house opposite my lodging had

been formerly a King's palace; the outside was totally covered with

fleur-de-lis, embossed out of the stone. Here Mary de Medicis held her

Court, when she was compelled to retire from Paris by the persecution of

the great Cardinal.

25th May, 1644. Was the Fête Dieu, and a goodly procession of all the

religious orders, the whole streets hung with their best tapestries, and

their most precious movables exposed; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and

pictures in abundance; the streets strewed with flowers, and full of

pageantry, banners, and bravery.

6th June, 1644. I went by water to visit that goodly and venerable Abbey

of Marmoutiers, being one of the greatest in the kingdom; to it is a very

ample church of stone, with a very high pyramid. Among other relics the

Monks showed us is the Holy Ampoulle, the same with that which sacres

their Kings at Rheims, this being the one that anointed Henry IV.

Ascending many steps, we went into the Abbot's Palace, where we were

showed a vast tun (as big as that at Heidelberg), which they report St.

Martin (as I remember) filled from one cluster of grapes growing there.

7th June, 1644. We walked about two miles from the city to an agreeable

solitude, called Du Plessis, a house belonging to the King. It has many

pretty gardens, full of nightingales; and, in the chapel, lies buried the

famous poet, Ronsard.

Returning, we stepped into a Convent of Franciscans, called St. Cosmo,

where the cloister is painted with the miracles of their St. Francis à

Paula, whose ashes lie in their chapel, with this inscription: "_Corpus

Sancti Fran. à Paula 1507, 13 Aprilis, concrematur verò ab Hæreticis anno

1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hìc jacent_." The tomb has four small

pyramids of marble at each corner.

9th June, 1644. I was invited to a vineyard, which was so artificially

planted and supported with arched poles, that stooping down one might see

from end to end, a very great length, under the vines, the bunches

hanging down in abundance.

20th June, 1644. We took horse to see certain natural caves, called

Gouttière, near Colombière, where there is a spring within the bowels of

the earth, very deep and so excessive cold, that the drops meeting with

some lapidescent matter, it converts them into a hard stone, which hangs

about it like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures and

sugar plums, as we call them.

Near this, we went under the ground almost two furlongs, lighted with

candles, to see the source and spring which serves the whole city, by a

passage cut through the main rock of freestone.

28th June, 1644. I went to see the palace and gardens of Chevereux, a

sweet place.

30th June, 1644. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbé, to

the ruins of an old and very strong castle, said to have been built by

the English, of great height, on the precipice of a dreadful cliff, from

whence the country and river yield a most incomparable prospect.

27th July, 1644. I heard excellent music at the Jesuits, who have here a

school and convent, but a mean chapel. We have now store of those

admirable melons, so much celebrated in France for the best in the

kingdom.

1st August, 1644. My valet, one Garro, a Spaniard, born in Biscao, having

misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him; he demanded of me (besides his

wages) no less than 100 crowns to carry him to his country; refusing to

pay it, as no part of our agreement, he had the impudence to arrest me;

the next day I was to appear in Court, where both our avocats pleaded

before the Lieutenant Civil; but it was so unreasonable a pretense, that

the Judge had not patience to hear it out. The Judge immediately

acquitted me, after he had reproached the avocat who took part with my

servant, he rose from the Bench, and making a courteous excuse to me,

that being a stranger I should be so used, he conducted me through the

court to the street-door. This varlet afterward threatened to pistol me.

The next day, I waited on the Lieutenant, to thank him for his great

civility.

18th August, 1644. The Queen of England came to Tours, having newly

arrived in France, and going for Paris. She was very nobly received by

the people and clergy, who went to meet her with the trained bands.

After the harangue, the Archbishop entertained her at his Palace, where I

paid my duty to her. The 20th she set forward to Paris.

8th September, 1644. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to this place,

where I settled them in their pension and exercises.

14th September, 1644. We took post for Richelieu, passing by l'Isle

Bouchard, a village in the way. The next day, we arrived, and went to see

the Cardinal's Palace, near it. The town is built in a low, marshy

ground, having a narrow river cut by hand, very even and straight,

capable of bringing up a small vessel. It consists of only one

considerable street, the houses on both sides (as indeed throughout the

town) built exactly uniform, after a modern handsome design. It has a

large goodly market house and place, opposite to which is the church

built of freestone, having two pyramids of stone, which stand hollow from

the towers. The church is well built, and of a well-ordered architecture,

within handsomely paved and adorned. To this place belongs an Academy,

where, besides the exercise of the horse, arms, dancing, etc., all the

sciences are taught in the vulgar French by professors stipendiated by

the great Cardinal, who by this, the cheap living there, and divers

privileges, not only designed the improvement of the vulgar language, but

to draw people and strangers to the town; but since the Cardinal's death,

it is thinly inhabited; standing so much out of the way, and in a place

not well situated for health, or pleasure. He was allured to build by the

name of the place, and an old house there belonging to his ancestors.

This pretty town is handsomely walled about and moated, with a kind of

slight fortification, two fair gates and drawbridges. Before the gate,

toward the palace, is a spacious circle, where the fair is annually kept.

About a flight-shot from the town is the Cardinal's house, a princely

pile, though on an old design, not altogether Gothic, but mixed, and

environed by a clear moat. The rooms are stately, most richly furnished

with tissue, damask, arras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, and all

sorts of antiquities, especially the Cæsars, in oriental alabaster. The

long gallery is painted with the famous acts of the Founder; the roof

with the life of Julius Cæsar; at the end of it is a cupola, or singing

theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black marble. The chapel

anciently belonged to the family of the Founder. The court is very ample.

The gardens without are very large, and the parterres of excellent

embroidery, set with many statues of brass and marble; the groves,

meadows, and walks are a real Paradise.

16th September, 1644. We returned to Tours, from whence, after nineteen

weeks' sojourn, we traveled toward the more southern part of France,

minding now to shape my course so, as I might winter in Italy. With my

friend, Mr. Thicknesse, and our guide, we went the first day seven

leagues to a castle called Chenonceau, built by Catherine de Medicis, and

now belonging to the Duke de Vendôme, standing on a bridge. In the

gallery, among divers other excellent statues, is that of Scipio

Africanus, of oriental alabaster.

[Sidenote: BOURGES]

21st September, 1644. We passed by Villefranche, where we dined, and so

by Muneton, lying at Viaron-au-mouton, which was twenty leagues. The next

day by Murg to Bourges, four leagues, where we spent the day. This is the

capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, situated on

the river Eure. It stands high, is strong, and well placed for defense;

is environed with meadows and vines, and the living here is very cheap.

In the suburbs of St. Privé, there is a fountain of sharp water which

they report wholesome against the stone. They showed us a vast tree which

they say stands in the center of France. The French tongue is spoken with

great purity in this place. St. Stephen's church is the cathedral, well

built _à la Gothique_, full of sepulchres without-side, with the

representation of the final Judgment over one of the ports. Here they

show the chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous soldier who had served

six kings of France in their wars. St. Chapelle is built much like that

at Paris, full of relics, and containing the bones of one Briat, a giant

of fifteen cubits high. It was erected by John, Duke of Berry, and there

is showed the coronet of the dukedom. The great tower is a Pharos for

defense of the town, very strong, in thickness eighteen feet, fortified

with graffs and works; there is a garrison in it, and a strange engine

for throwing great stones, and the iron cage where Louis, Duke of

Orleans, was kept by Charles VIII. Near the Town-house stands the College

of Jesuits, where was heretofore an Amphitheater. I was courteously

entertained by a Jesuit, who had us into the garden, where we fell into

disputation. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth seeing. Bourges is an

Archbishopric and Primacy of Aquitaine. I took my leave of Mr. Nicholas,

and some other English there; and, on the 23d, proceeded on my journey by

Pont du Charge; and lay that evening at Coulaiure, thirteen leagues.

24th September, 1644. By Franchesse, St. Menoux, thence to Moulins, where

we dined. This is the chief town of the Bourbonnois, on the river Allier,

very navigable. The streets are fair; the castle has a noble prospect,

and has been the seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty park and garden.

After dinner, came many who offered knives and scissors to sell; it being

a town famous for these trifles. This Duchy of Bourbon is ordinarily

assigned for the dowry of the Queens of France.

Hence, we took horse for Varennes, an obscure village, where we lay that

night. The next day, we went somewhat out of the way to see the town of

Bourbon l'Archambaut, from whose ancient and rugged castle is derived the

name of the present Royal Family of France. The castle stands on a flinty

rock, overlooking the town. In the midst of the streets are some baths of

medicinal waters, some of them excessive hot, but nothing so neatly

walled and adorned as ours in Somersetshire; and indeed they are chiefly

used to drink of, our Queen being then lodged there for that purpose.

After dinner, I went to see the St. Chapelle, a prime place of devotion,

where is kept one of the thorns of our Savior's crown, and a piece of the

real cross; excellent paintings on glass, and some few statues of stone

and wood, which they show for curiosities. Hence, we went forward to La

Palise, a village that lodged us that night.

26th September, 1644. We arrived at Roane, where we quitted our guide,

and took post for Lyons. Roane seemed to me one of the pleasantest and

most agreeable places imaginable, for a retired person: for, besides the

situation on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheap and

abundant. It being late when we left this town, we rode no further than

Tarare that night (passing St. Saforin), a little desolate village in a

valley near a pleasant stream, encompassed with fresh meadows and

vineyards. The hills which we rode over before we descended, and

afterward, on the Lyons side of this place, are high and mountainous; fir

and pines growing frequently on them. The air methought was much altered

as well as the manner of the houses, which are built flatter, more after

the eastern manner. Before I went to bed, I took a landscape of this

pleasant terrace. There followed a most violent tempest of thunder and

lightning.

[Sidenote: LYONS]

27th September, 1644. We rode by Pont Charu to Lyons, which being but six

leagues we soon accomplished, having made eighty-five leagues from Tours

in seven days. Here at the Golden Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of

my acquaintance, who, coming from Paris, were designed for Italy. We lost

no time in seeing the city, because of being ready to accompany these

gentlemen in their journey. Lyons is excellently situated on the

confluence of the rivers Soane and Rhone, which wash the walls of the

city in a very rapid stream; each of these has its bridge; that over the

Rhone consists of twenty-eight arches. The two high cliffs, called St.

Just and St. Sebastian, are very stately; on one of them stands a strong

fort, garrisoned. We visited the cathedral, St. Jean, where was one of

the fairest clocks for art and busy invention I had ever seen. The fabric

of the church is gothic, as are likewise those of St. Etienne and St.

Croix. From the top of one of the towers of St. Jean (for it has four) we

beheld the whole city and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alps,

many leagues distant. The Archbishop's palace is fairly built. The church

of St. Nisier is the greatest; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here

are divers other fine churches and very noble buildings we had not time

to visit, only that of the Charité, or great hospital for poor, infirm

people, entertaining about 1,500 souls, with a school, granary, gardens,

and all conveniences, maintained at a wonderful expense, worthy seeing.

The place of the _Belle Cour_ is very spacious, observable for the view

it affords, so various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyards,

gardens, precipices, and other extravagant and incomparable advantages

presenting themselves together. The Pall Mall is set with fair trees. In

fine, this stately, clean, and noble city, built all of stone, abounds

in persons of quality and rich merchants: those of Florence obtaining

great privileges above the rest. In the Town-house, they show two tables

of brass, on which is engraven Claudius's speech, pronounced to the

Senate, concerning the franchising of the town, with the Roman

privileges. There are also other antiquities.