Plains of stiff clay.
The Wimmera.
Difficult passage of its five branches.
Ascend Mount Zero.
Circular lake, brackish water.
The Wimmera in a united channel.
Lose this river.
Ascend Mount Arapiles.
Mr. Stapylton's excursion northward.
Salt lakes.
Green Hill lake.
Mitre lake.
Relinquish the pursuit of the Wimmera.
The party travels to the south-west.
Red lake.
Small lakes of fresh water.
White lake.
Basketwork of the natives.
Muddy state of the surface.
Mr. Stapylton's ride southward.
Disastrous encounter of one man with a native.
A tribe makes its appearance.
More lakes of brackish water.
Escape at last from the mud.
Encamp on a running stream.
Fine country.
Discovery of a good river.
Granitic soil.
Passage of the Glenelg.
Country well watered.
Pigeon ponds.
Soft soil again impedes the party.
Halt to repair the carts and harness.
Natives very shy.
Chetwynd rivulet.
Slow progress over the soft surface.
Excursion into the country before us.
Beautiful region discovered.
The party extricated with difficulty from the mud.
PLAINS OF STIFF CLAY.
July 17.
The ground on the sides of the low hills was still so soft (and in this
respect I had found the country we had lately crossed even worse than
that previously traversed by the carts) that the only prospect which
remained to us of being able to continue the journey was by proceeding
over the plains extending along the interior side of the Grampians of the
South. The soil of such plains consisted chiefly of clay, and we had
recently found that it bore the wheels of the waggons much better during
the winter season than the thin and loose soil on the sides of hills;
apparently because this lay on rock, or a substratum so tenacious as to
support the water in or just under the surface. The wheels and also the
feet of the cattle sunk at once to this rocky subsoil whatever its depth,
and up came the water, so that on level parts our track resembled a ditch
of mud and water, and on slopes it formed a current of water and a drain
from the sides of hills. I had observed the plains during my
reconnaissance of the interior from the side of Mount William, and I now
directed our course towards them. We crossed without difficulty the
little river by the passage Mr. Stapylton had prepared during my absence
and, after travelling about four miles first west and then north-west, we
came upon an extensive plain. The soil consisted of good strong clay on
which the cattle travelled very well, and it was covered with the best
kind of grass. On reaching it I resumed my former course which was nearly
west-south-west towards Mount Zero, a name I applied to a remarkable cone
at the western extremity of the chain of mountains. After travelling 2
1/2 miles over the plain we again reached the banks of Richardson's
creek, and forded it after some delay and considerable difficulty on
account of the softness of the bottom. We next entered on a tract of
grassy forest land, the trees being chiefly box and casuarinae. At 2 1/2
miles beyond Richardson's creek we crossed a small run of water flowing
west-north-west, apparently towards it. After passing over similar ground
for some miles further and having had another plain on our right, we at
length encamped near a large serpentine pond or lake which was broad,
deep, and bordered with lofty gum trees.
July 18.
We continued for five miles along good firm ground on which there was
open forest of box and gumtrees; and part of the bold outline of the
Grampians appeared to our left.
THE WIMMERA.
At nine miles we fell in with a flowing stream, the water being deep and
nearly as high as the banks. I did not doubt that this was the channel of
the waters from the north side of these mountains, and I was convinced
that it contained the water of all the streams we had crossed on our way
to Mount William, with the exception of Richardson's creek, already
crossed by the party where it was flowing to the north-west. The richness
of the soil and the verdure near the river, as well as the natural beauty
of the scenery could scarcely be surpassed in any country. The banks were
in some places open and grassy and shaded by lofty yarra trees, in others
mimosa bushes nodded over the eddying stream.
Continuing along the right bank in a north-west direction we travelled
two miles on a grassy plain; and we then turned towards the river,
encamping on its banks in latitude 36 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds
South, longitude 142 degrees 39 minutes 25 seconds East. Magnetic
variation 5 degrees 21 minutes 45 seconds East.
Some natives being heard on the opposite bank, Piper advanced towards
them as cautiously as possible; but he could not prevail on them to come
over, although he ascertained that the name of the river was the Wimmera.
DIFFICULT PASSAGE OF ITS FIVE BRANCHES.
July 19.
On examining the Wimmera with Piper's assistance I found that it was
fordable in some places; but in order to effect a passage with greater
facility we took over several of the loads in one of the boats. Thus the
whole party had gained what I considered to be the left bank by ten A.M.
On proceeding I perceived some yarra trees before me which grew, as we
soon discovered, beside a smaller branch, the bottom of which was soft.
We had however the good fortune to pass the carts across this branch
also. At a quarter of a mile further we came upon another flowing stream,
apparently very deep and having steep but grassy banks. The passage of
this occupied the party nearly two hours, one of the carts having sunk up
to the axle in a soft bank or channel island. While the men were
releasing the cart I rode forward and found a FOURTH channel, deep, wide,
and full to the brim. In vain did Tally-ho (trumpeter, master of the
horse, etc. to the party) dash his horse into this stream in search of a
bottom; though at last one broad favourable place was found where the
whole party forded at a depth of not more than 2 1/2 feet. Beyond these
channels another similar one still obstructed our progress; but this we
also successfully forded, and at length we found rising ground before us,
consisting of an open plain which extended to the base of the mountains.
On its skirt we pitched our tents at a distance of not quite one mile and
a half from our last camp; a short journey certainly, but the passage of
the five branches of the Wimmera was nevertheless a good day's work. I
had frequently observed in the Australian rivers a uniformity of
character throughout the whole course of each, and the peculiarities of
this important stream were equally remarkable, it being obviously the
same we had crossed in three similar channels when on our way to Mount
William, twenty miles above this point. The shrubs on the banks at the
two places were also similar.
ASCEND MOUNT ZERO.
July 20.
While Mr. Stapylton conducted the party across the plains in a
west-south-west direction I proceeded towards Mount Zero, the most
western extremity of the mountain range and distant from our camp 8 1/2
miles. I found this hill consisted also of highly micaceous sandstone;
the whole being inclined towards the north-west. Having planted my
theodolite on the summit I intersected various higher points to the
eastward, and also a very remote, isolated hill on the low country far to
the northward which I had also seen from Mount William, and from several
stations on our route. Several specimens of shrubs and flowers that had
not been previously seen by us were gathered on the sides of this rocky
hill. Among them was a very singular hairy Acacia covered with a
profusion of the most brilliant yellow flowers. In some respects it
resembled A. lanigera, but it proved upon examination to be undescribed.*
(Footnote. A. strigosa, Lindley manuscripts; glanduloso-hirsuta,
phyllodiis linearibus v. lineari-oblongis obovatisque uninerviis
eglandulosis apice rotundatis mucronatis obliquis, stipulis subulatis
villosis, capitulis solitariis sessilibus.)
An isolated mass appeared to the westward, having near its base a most
remarkable rock resembling a mitre. Beyond this the distant horizon was
not quite so level as the plains of the interior usually are and, as far
as I could see northward with a good telescope, I perceived open forest
land and various fine sheets of water. I observed with great satisfaction
that the Grampians terminated to the westward on a comparatively low
country. This was an important object of attention to me then as it
comprised all that intervened between us and the southern coast; in which
direction I perceived only one or two groups of conical hills. I resolved
however, before turning southwards, to extend our journey to the isolated
mass already mentioned, which I afterwards named Mount Arapiles. After
descending from Mount Zero I proceeded towards the track of the carts and
found that the plains, unlike any hitherto seen, undulated so much that
in one place I could perceive only the tops of trees in the hollows. On
these plains I found small nodules of highly ferruginous sandstone,
apparently similar to that which occurs near Jervis Bay and in other
places along the eastern coast.
CIRCULAR LAKE, BRACKISH WATER.
Reaching at length a low green ridge of black soil very different from
that of the plains, I found it formed the eastern bank of another of
those remarkable circular lakes of which I had seen so many near the
Murray. The bed of this hollow consisted of rich black earth and was
thirty-two feet below the level of the adjacent plain. It seemed nearly
circular, the diameter being about three-quarters of a mile. One
peculiarity in this lake was a double bank on the eastern side consisting
first of a concentric break or slope from the plain, the soil not being
clay as usual, but a dry red sand; and then arose the green bank of black
earth, leaving a concentric fosse or hollow between. A belt of yarra
trees grew around the edge of this singular hollow which was so dry and
firm that the carts, in the track of which I was riding, had traversed it
without difficulty. I learnt from Mr. Stapylton, on reaching the camp,
that the party had previously passed near two other lakes, the largest
containing salt water; and in the neighbourhood of these he had also
remarked a great change of soil; so that what with the verdure upon it,
the undulating surface, and clumps of casuarinae on light soil, or lofty
yarra trees growing in black soil, that part of the country looked
tolerably well.
THE MACKENZIE AND THE NORTON.
July 21.
At a quarter of a mile from the camp we crossed a running stream which
also contained deep and apparently permanent pools. Several pine or
callitris trees grew near its banks being the first we had seen for some
time. I named this mountain stream the Mackenzie. Beyond it were grassy
undulating plains with clumps of casuarinae and box trees (eucalypti). At
three miles and a half we crossed another chain of ponds, and at four
miles we came to a deep stream, running with considerable rapidity over a
bed of sandstone rock. It was overhung with mimosa-bushes; and it was not
until after considerable search that I could find a convenient place for
fording it. This I named the Norton. Good grassy hills arose beyond, and
after crossing them we found an undulating country and sandy soil where
there were shallow lagoons and but little grass.
THE WIMMERA IN A UNITED CHANNEL.
At nine miles I was aware, from the sloping of the ground, of the
vicinity of a river; and we soon came once more upon the Wimmera, flowing
in one deep channel nearly as broad as the Murrumbidgee, but in no other
respect at all similar. The banks of this newly discovered river were not
water-worn but characterised by verdant slopes, the borders being fringed
with bushes of mimosae. The country was indeed fine adjacent to the
Wimmera, and at the point where we came to it the river was joined by a
running creek from the south which we crossed, and at two miles and a
quarter further we encamped on a spot overlooking a reedy lagoon, from
which some long slopes descended towards the river, distant from our camp
about half a mile. When we thus again intersected the Wimmera I was
travelling due west, partly with a view to ascertain its ultimate course.
LOSE THIS RIVER.
The isolated hill lay before me, and it was now to be ascertained whether
the course of the stream was to the south or north of it. The appearance
of the country from Mount Zero certainly afforded no prospect of our
falling in with the river where we did, but at this camp Burnett, having
climbed to the top of a high tree, thought he could trace the course to
the southward of the hill before us, which bore nearly west. This
prospect accorded with my wishes, and I hoped to trace it to the coast
without deviating too far to the westward of my intended route.
July 22.
A small stream from the south crossed our way when we had proceeded about
half a mile. At six miles and a half we met with another; and three miles
beyond it I perceived a change in the appearance of the country. We had
been for some time travelling through forest land which now opened into
grassy and level plains, variegated with belts and clumps of lofty trees
giving to the whole the appearance of a park. We had now the hilly mass
of Mount Arapiles on our right, or north of us, but to my surprise there
was no river flowing between us and those heights as I had reason to
suppose from what had been seen from the tree by Burnett. Turning towards
the north-west therefore and at last northward, we finally encamped on a
spot to the westward of the hill after a journey of sixteen miles. Much
of the ground near this hill was so soft that one of the carts could not
be brought in before midnight, although assisted by several teams sent
back from the camp. We were now encamped on a dark-coloured soil from
which arose the same peculiar smell that I had remarked at Cudjallagong
(Regent's Lake of Oxley). What had become of the Wimmera I could scarcely
imagine but, anxious to ascertain its course, I hastened before sunset to
a western extremity of the hill; but instead of the river, of which I
could see no trace, I beheld the sun setting over numerous lakes: the
nearest, two miles and a half to the northward, being apparently six
miles in circumference. It seemed to be nearly circular and a group of
low grassy hills formed a concentric curve around the eastern margin, and
from the total absence of any reeds, trees, or smoke of natives, it was
too obvious that the water was salt. From the spot where I then stood I
counted twelve such lakes, most of them appearing to have a
crescent-shaped mound or bank on the eastern side. This certainly was a
remarkable portion of the earth's surface, and rather resembled that of
the moon as seen through a telescope. The eastern and principal summit of
the hill was at some distance; and I returned to the camp in hopes of
being able to discover from that point in the morning some indication of
the further course of the Wimmera.
ASCEND MOUNT ARAPILES.
July 23.
Having ascended the highest summit I counted from that height
twenty-seven circular lakes, two of the largest being about seven miles
to the north-east, the direction in which I expected to see the river.
Beyond these however I observed an extensive woody valley whence much
smoke arose, marking, to all appearance, the course of the Wimmera which
must have taken a turn in that direction, not far below the junction of
the last creek crossed by the party. Beyond that supposed bed of the
Wimmera the country appeared to be undulated, open, and grassy; and it
was probably covered with lakes similar to those on this side, for I had
observed from Mount Zero patches of water in that direction. From this
summit I had a good view of the Grampians of the South and, discovering
that a lofty range extended from them southward, I named it the Victoria
range having also recognised and intersected Mount William, distant 53
1/2 miles. I could see no high land to the westward, and the hill on
which I stood seemed to divide the singular lacustrine country from that
where the character of the surface was fluviatile. Mount Arapiles is a
feature which may always be easily recognised both by its isolated
position and by its small companion the Mitre Rock, situated midway
between it and the lake to the northward, which I named Mitre Lake after
the little hill, its neighbour. Like the mountains in the east Mount
Arapiles consists of sandstone passing into quartz, the whole apparently
an altered sandstone, the structure being in one part almost destroyed,
in others perfectly distinct and containing pebbles of quartz. At the
western extremity this rock occurs in columns, resembling, at a distance,
those of basalt. (See Plate 31.) On the steep slopes grew pines,
casuarinae, and a variety of shrubs among which we found a new species of
Baeckea, forming a handsome evergreen bush, the ends of whose graceful
branches were closely covered with small white delicate flowers.* This
mass occupies about two square miles, its highest summit being elevated
above Mitre Lake 726 feet. I ascended this hill on the anniversary of the
battle of Salamanca and hence the name.
(Footnote. B. calycina, Lindley manuscripts; glaberrima, foliis planis
sparse punctatis oblongo-cuneatis acutis, floribus pedicellatis
terminali-axillaribus, laciniis calycinis petaloideis petalis
longioribus. Near B. virgata.)
MR. STAPYLTON'S EXCURSION NORTHWARD.
July 24.
While Mr. Stapylton rode northward in search of the Wimmera I proceeded
to examine and survey some of these remarkable lakes.
SALT LAKES.
On the margin of one of them, bearing 55 1/2 degrees West of North from
our camp, a green hill of rather singular shape rose to a considerable
height above the surrounding country. I found the water in the lake
beside it shallow and quite salt. The basin was nearly circular though
partially filled with firm level earth which was water-worn at the brink,
its surface being about three feet higher than the water. This was
surrounded by a narrow beach of soft white mud or clay in which we found
no change on digging to the depth of several feet.
GREEN HILL LAKE.
The green hill was the highest of several semicircular ridges whose forms
may perhaps be better understood by the accompanying plan.* There was a
remarkable analogy in the form and position of all these hills; the form
being usually that of a curve, concentric with the lake, and the position
invariably on the eastern or north-eastern shores, a peculiarity I had
previously observed not only in the lakes near the banks of the Murray
but also in others on the Murrumbidgee and Lachlan where the ridge
consisted of red sand. The country on the western shore of these lakes
is, on the contrary, low and wooded like the surrounding country. In such
hills concretions of indurated marl frequently occur, but the earth they
consist of is sometimes light-coloured, in other cases very dark, like
the soil from trap-rock, and the ridges beside the lakes on the
Murrumbidgee, consisted of red sand.
(*Footnote. Having modelled this feature I have the satisfaction of
presenting to the reader the first specimen of a plan of ground worked
from a model by the anaglyptograph, an important invention recently
perfected in this country by Mr. Bates and likely to be of very
considerable value in the representation of the earth's surface under the
skilful management of Mr. Freebairn.)
MITRE LAKE.
The water of Mitre Lake was also salt,* but there were numbers of ducks
and black swans upon it. The western shore was low, and the soil where it
had been thrown up in the roots of fallen trees was nearly as white as
chalk. A gray rather fine quartzose sand occurred in some places; and
along the water's edge a very minute shell had been cast up in
considerable quantities by the waves.** The hills to the eastward of this
lake were arranged in a crescent around the basin, but this being
composed of a number of hills almost separate from each other had a less
regular or uncommon appearance, although they were apparently the remains
of a curve equally as symmetrical as the others. The basin of this lake
was very extensive but partly filled on the side next the low hills by a
level tract of dry land covered with a brown bush (Salicornia arbuscula
of Brown); and the concentric curves in which it grew, as if closing on
the lake, seemed to record its progressive diminution. The breadth of
this heathy-looking flat between the water and the crescent of low hills
was nearly half a mile. A small rill of fresh water oozed into the lake
from the sides of Mount Arapiles. The bed of this watercourse was soft
and boggy near the lake, so that I could cross only by going up its
channel much nearer to the hill and at a point where some rocks protruded
and prevented our horses from sinking.
(*Footnote. For Professor Faraday's analysis of these waters see below.)
(**Footnote. This was a truncatella, a saltwater shell of which there are
several species on the English and French coasts. The one found here has
been named by Mr. J. De Carl Sowerby T. filosa.)
Mr. Stapylton, in his search for the Wimmera, rode about six miles to the
northward without reaching the river, although he saw the valley through
which he thought it flowed; and where the river seemed likely to resume a
course to the southward of west. Upon the whole I think that the estuary
of the Wimmera will most probably be found either between Cape Bernouilli
and Cape Jaffa, or at some of the sandy inlets laid down by Captain
Flinders to the northward of the first of these capes. The country which
Mr. Stapylton crossed assumed the barren character of the lower parts of
the Murray. He actually passed through a low scrub of the Eucalyptus
dumosa; but I have no doubt that the country on the immediate banks of
the Wimmera continues good, whatever its course may be, even to the
sea-coast.
RELINQUISH THE PURSUIT OF THE WIMMERA.
At all events I here abandoned the pursuit of that river and determined
to turn towards the south-west that we might ascertain what streams fell
in that direction from the Grampians; and also the nature of the country
between these mountains and the shores of the Southern Ocean.
THE PARTY TRAVELS TO THE SOUTH-WEST.
July 25.
Proceeding accordingly about south-west, we crossed at less than a mile
from our camp the dry bed of a circular lake. The ground on the eastern
shore was full of wombat holes which had been made in a stratum of
compact tuff about a foot in thickness. The tuff was irregularly
cavernous and it was loose, calcareous, or friable in the lower part
where the wombats had made their burrows. On the opposite margin of this
dry lake the surface was covered with concretions of indurated marl; and
the burrows of the wombat were even more numerous there than in the other
bank; the stratum of compact tuff occurring also and being three feet in
thickness.
RED LAKE.
At 2 1/4 miles we came upon the shores of Red lake which I so named from
the colour of a weed growing upon its margin. The lake was nearly a mile
in length and half a mile broad; the water was so slightly brackish that
reeds grew upon the borders which were frequented by many swans and
ducks. A very symmetrical bank overlooked the eastern shore, the ground
on the westward being low and wooded with the ordinary trees of the
country. We next crossed a flat of dry white sand on which banksia grew
thickly; and then we reached some low white sandhills on which were
stunted ironbark trees (eucalypti). In the higher part of those hills we
crossed a small dry hollow or lake which had also its bank on the eastern
side.
SMALL LAKES OF FRESH WATER.
At the end of 5 1/2 miles we passed two small lakes of fresh water about
half a mile to the right and, soon after, another about the same distance
to the left. On completing seven miles we crossed a low ridge of white
sand on which grew stunted trees of stringybark and black-butted gumtrees
(both belonging to the genus eucalyptus). Beyond this we crossed a
country in which wet, reedy swamps of fresh water, white sandhills, and
fine flats of good forest land occurred alternately. Towards the end of
our day's journey, the barren sandhills seemed to prevail, but at length
we descended from them rather suddenly to a smooth firm plain, clothed
with the finest grass and on the edge of this we pitched our tents for
the night.
July 26.
We proceeded through a thick fog and found the plain studded with clumps
of casuarinae. About a mile from the camp we came upon an extensive swamp
or lake, full of grass and rushes. Turning this by the left we crossed
some more good country, and then reached the banks of an extensive
lagoon, also full of green rushes and water. The western bank was high
and consisted of rich grassy land, very open; a small stream of water
fell into the lake on the north-west side, and another on the south-east.
It was surrounded by lofty gum trees and had a wood on the south and
east. We met with sandhills and stunted timber beyond. They enclosed a
long grassy flat covered with water, stretching away to the south-east.
We next entered on a fine flat of forest land bounded by a low ridge with
Callitris pyramidalis, or pine trees.
WHITE LAKE.
From this I perceived a circular lake a little to our right and on riding
to it I found the water salt and of a very white colour. No trees grew on
the margin and the surrounding scene was so dreary that it resembled a
mountain-tarn. Two solitary ducks were upon it, apparently of a species
new to us, but this I could not ascertain, having had only my rifle with
me and, the cap missing fire, I lost even that chance of killing them.
The bed of the lake also consisted of a very white marl. A high
semicircular bank swept round the eastern shore; that opposite, or
towards the west being low and swampy. On that side I saw two natives at
a distance making the best of their way to the southward. We had this day
noticed some of their huts which were of a very different construction
from those of the aborigines in general, being large, circular, and made
of straight rods meeting at an upright pole in the centre; the outside
had been first covered with bark and grass and then entirely coated over
with clay. The fire appeared to have been made nearly in the centre; and
a hole at the top had been left as a chimney. The place seemed to have
been in use for years as a casual habitation.
BASKETWORK OF THE NATIVES.
In this hut the natives had left various articles such as jagged spears,
some of them set with flints; and an article of their manufacture which
we had not before seen, namely, bags of the gins, very neatly wrought,
apparently made of a tough small rush. Two of these also resembled
reticules and contained balls of resin, flints for the spearheads etc.
The iron bolt of a boat was likewise found in one of these huts. The
natives invariably fled at our approach, a circumstance to be regretted
perhaps on account of the nomenclature of my map; but otherwise their
flight was preferable to the noisy familiarity of the natives of the
Darling, perplexing us between their brands of defiance and treacherous
invitations to dance. Indeed the two regions were as different in
character as the manners of their respective inhabitants. Instead of
salsolaceous deserts and mesenbryanthemum we now found a variety of
everything most interesting in a newly discovered country. Every day we
passed over land which for natural fertility and beauty could scarcely be
surpassed; over streams of unfailing abundance and plains covered with
the richest pasturage. Stately trees and majestic mountains adorned the
ever-varying scenery of this region, the most southern of all Australia
and the best. Beyond the White lake, which may be the distinguishing name
of the last mentioned, we passed over several tracts of open forest land
separated by dry sandhills, and at length encamped on a rich flat.
MUDDY STATE OF THE SURFACE.
The cattle were very much fatigued from the heaviness of the draught
owing to the extreme softness of the surface, especially on the more open
forest lands; and one bullock-driver remained behind with a cart until we
could send back a team by moonlight to his assistance.
NATIVES AND THE BULLOCK-DRIVER.
July 27.
The cart which had fallen behind came in about three o'clock in the
morning. The natives had soon been heard about the solitary driver, and
four of them came up to him and demanded tomahawks; but being an old
bushranger, he, on their approach, laid out all his cartridges one by one
before him on a tarpaulin with his pistol and carabine, ready for action;
but fortunately his visitors did not proceed to extremities. The morning
was very foggy and, as this weather did not admit of my choosing a good
line of route, and as the surface of the country was so soft that it was
imperatively necessary to look well before us, I halted. I could thus at
least bring up my maps and journals and rest the jaded cattle after so
much long-continued toil in travelling through the mud.
MR. STAPYLTON'S RIDE SOUTHWARD.
I directed Mr. Stapylton to ride in the direction of 30 degrees West of
South (my intended route) and ascertain whether we were approaching any
river. The country we were in, being still lacustrine, I hoped to find
the surface more favourable for travelling upon where it was drained by
rivers; for on that amongst the salt lakes, although the land was very
good in point of fertility, there was evidently a deficiency of slope and
consequently much more water retained in the soil. Still the ground
presented undulations, being rarely quite level like the plains except
indeed in the beds of swamps. Recent experience had taught us to avoid
the very level parts and to seek any kind of rising ground. The hills we
occasionally fell in with consisted of white sand, and at first looked
like connected ridges where we might find streams; but we ascertained
that they always parted without enclosing any channels and left us in the
mud. The sand itself still consisted of the same rock (decomposed) which
appeared to be so generally spread over the country then between us and
the eastern shores of New Holland. Mr. Stapylton did not return this
evening, a circumstance which very much alarmed me as he had taken only
one man with him and was to have come back before sunset.
July 28.
Supposing that Mr. Stapylton had gone past our camp in returning, the
afternoon having been very rainy, I this morning sent out two parties,
the one to proceed east, the other west, in search of his track which, if
found by either, was to be followed until he was overtaken. Mr. Stapylton
returned however before midday, having ridden twenty miles in the
direction pointed out without having seen any river. He had passed a
number of circular lakes similar to those already described; the seventh
and most remote having appeared the largest. Just then as he turned his
horse he perceived that the land beyond became higher, indicating a
change of country. The party which had gone eastward heard our signal
shot on Mr. Stapylton's arrival and returned, having also seen four
similar lakes; but the party sent westward did not reach the camp until
some hours after the other.
DISASTROUS ENCOUNTER OF ONE MAN WITH A NATIVE.
They had unfortunately come upon some huts of the natives, where one of
them remained and who, refusing to listen to Piper's explanations, was
about to hurl his spear at Pickering, when this man, at Piper's desire,
immediately fired his carabine and wounded the native in the arm. I
regretted this unlucky collision exceedingly and blamed Pickering for
having been so precipitate; but his defence was that Piper told him
unless he fired he would be instantly speared.
July 29.
We endeavoured to proceed today in a direction more to the eastward than
the route of Mr. Stapylton, in the hope of finding firmer ground than he
had seen, by following that which was highest and sandy. But even in this
way we could not accomplish five miles and a half, although the last of
the carts did not arrive at the spot where we were at length compelled to
re-encamp until long after it became dark. The wheels sank up to the
axles, and the cattle from wallowing in the mud had become so weak as to
be scarcely able to go forward when unyoked, much less to draw the laden
carts. I had with difficulty found a spot of firm ground where we could
encamp, but during that evening I had reconnoitred a more
favourable-looking line which I meant to try in the morning.
A TRIBE MAKES ITS APPEARANCE.
Soon after we commenced this day's journey, while I was watching in some
anxiety the passage of a soft hollow by the carts, a man was sent back by
the chaining party to inform me that a number of natives had come before
them pointing their spears. On going forward I found they had retired,
having probably with their usual quickness of perception observed the
messenger sent back and guessed his errand.
JUST REMONSTRANCE OF A TRIBE.
But their conduct as I then explained it to the men was quite reasonable
on this occasion. One (I was told) had spoke very loud and fast, pointing
west towards where the man had been fired at the day before and then,
touching his shoulder in allusion to the wound, he finally poised his
spear at Blanchard as if in just resentment.
PLANT OF A NEW GENUS.
While awaiting the slow progress of the carts through the mud I found a
most curious new genus allied to Correa, with the habit of C. speciosa,
and with long tubular four-petaled green flowers. It had been previously
observed by Mr. Cunningham, who called it Sida correoides; it was however
not a Sida, nor even a Malvaceous plant, but a new form of Australasian
Rutaceae, differing from Correa in having the petals each rolled round a
pair of stamens in its quadripartite conical calyx, and in there being
constantly two seeds in each cell of the fruit.*
(*Footnote. Didimeria aemula, Lindley manuscripts; undique pilis
stellatis lutescentibus furfuracea. Rami stricti. Folia subrotunda
cordata obtusa opposita brevi petiolata, pellucido-punctata. Pedunculi
axillares, filiformes, uniflori, supra medium bracteolis 2 subulatis
acuti. Calyx conicus, membranaceus, 4-partitus: laciniis acuminatis.
Petala 4, longissima, distincta, linearia, convoluta circa staminum
paria, extus tomentosa intus glabra. Stamina 8, hypogyna; filamentis
liberis, lineari-lanceolatis, membranaceis, alternis brevioribus;
antheris sagittatis inappendiculatis. Stylus filiformis glaber. Discus 0.
Capsula 4-cocca, villosissima, coccis dispermis, endocarpio solubili;
seminibus uno supra alterum positis.)
MORE LAKES OF BRACKISH WATER.
July 30.
By pursuing a course towards the base of the friendly mountains I hoped
that we should at length intercept some stream, channel, or valley where
we might find a drier soil and so escape, if possible, from the region of
lakes. We could but follow such a course however only as far as the
ground permitted and, after travelling over the hardest that we could
this day find for a mile and a half, I discovered a spacious lake on the
left, bounded on the east by some fine-looking green hills. These
separated it from a plain where I found the ground firm, and also from
several smaller lakes to the right of my intended route. I accordingly
proceeded along the ground between them, and I found that it bore the
wheels much better than any we had recently crossed. The lakes were
however still precisely similar in character to those of which we had
already seen so many. The water in them was rather too brackish to be fit
for use, and the ridges were all still on the eastern shores. From the
highest of these ridges the pinnacled summits of the Victoria range
presented an outline of the grandest character. The noble coronet of
rocks was indeed a cheering object to us after having been so long half
immersed in mud. We had passed between the lakes and were proceeding as
lightly as we could across the plain when down went the wheel of a cart,
sinking to the axle, and the usual noise of flogging (cruelty which I had
repeatedly forbidden) and a consequent delay of several hours followed.
ESCAPE AT LAST FROM THE MUD.
In the meantime I rode to some grassy hills on the right, and found
behind them on the south-west another extensive lake on which I saw a
great number of ducks. Its bed consisted of dark-coloured mud and the
water was also salt. The green hills before mentioned were curiously
broken and scooped out into small cavities much resembling those on
Green-hill Lake near Mount Arapiles. The plain rose gradually towards the
east to some scrubby ground nearly as high as these hills and, in a fall
beyond this scrub, I found at length to my great delight a small hollow
sloping to the south-east and a little water running in it.
ENCAMP ON A RUNNING STREAM.
Following it down I almost immediately perceived a ravine before me, and
at a mile and a quarter from the first fall of the ground I crossed a
chain of fine ponds in a valley, where we finally encamped on a fine
stream flowing to the south-west over granite rocks.*
(*Footnote. Consisting of white felspar and quartz and silvery mica.)
FINE COUNTRY.
Thus suddenly were we at length relieved from all the difficulties of
travelling in mud. We had solid granite beneath us; and instead of a
level horizon the finely rounded points of ground presented by the sides
of a valley thinly wooded and thickly covered with grass. This transition
from all that we sought to avoid to all we could desire in the character
of the country was so agreeable that I can record that evening as one of
the happiest of my life. Here too the doctor reported that no men
remained on the sick-list, and thus we were in all respects prepared for
going forward and making up for so much time lost.
DISCOVERY OF A GOOD RIVER. THE GLENELG.
July 31.
We now moved merrily over hill and dale, but were soon however brought to
a full stop by a fine river flowing, at the point where we met it, nearly
south-west. The banks of this stream were thickly overhung with bushes of
the mimosa, which were festooned in a very picturesque manner with the
wild vine. The river was everywhere deep and full and, as no ford could
be found, we prepared to cross it with the boats. But such a passage
required at least a day and, when I saw the boats afloat, I was tempted
to consider whether I might not explore the further course of this river
in them and give the cattle some rest. It was likely, I imagined, soon to
join another where we might meet with less obstruction. During the day
everything was got across save the empty carts and the boat-carriage, our
camp being thus established on the left bank. One bullock was
unfortunately drowned in attempting to swim across, having got entangled
in the branches of a sunken tree which, notwithstanding a careful search
previously made in the bottom of the stream, had not been discovered.
The river was here, on an average, 120 feet wide and 12 feet deep.
GRANITIC SOIL.
Granite* protruded in some places, but in general the bold features of
the valley through which this stream flowed were beautifully smooth and
swelling; they were not much wooded but on the contrary almost clear of
timber and accessible everywhere. The features were bold and round but
only so inclined that it was just possible to ride in any direction
without obstruction; a quality of which those who have been shut up among
the rocky gullies of New South Wales must know well the value. I named
this river the Glenelg after the Right Honourable the Secretary of State
for the Colonies, according to the usual custom.
(*Footnote. This granite varied consequently in the size of its component
parts which sometimes, especially in quartz and felspar, exceeded a foot
square, and in this I found distinctly imbedded friable masses,
apparently of sandstone, but which proved to consist of a very
fine-grained grey granite, approaching in character to mica-slate.)
PASSAGE OF THE GLENELG.
August 1.
The first part of this day was taken up in dragging the carts and
boat-carriage through the river. At one P.M. I embarked in the boats,
taking in them a fortnight's provisions and leaving Mr. Stapylton in a
strong position with nine men, the stores, and the cattle. We proceeded
for two miles without encountering much obstruction, but we found on
going further that the river ran in several channels, all of these being
overgrown with bushes, so that it was not without great difficulty that
we could penetrate about a mile farther by the time it had become nearly
quite dark. It was no easy matter to push through the opposing branches
even to reach the bank. Many similar branches had been cut during this
day's navigation, Woods, Palmer and most of the other men having been
more in the water than in the boats during the last mile. Every article
having been at length got to land, we encamped on the side of a steep
hill for the night, and I made up my mind to resume our land journey next
day unless I saw the river more favourable ahead. By the banks of the
Glenelg we found a stiff furze-like bush with small purple flowers, spiny
branches, and short stiff spiny leaves. It proved to be a new Daviesia
allied to D. colletioides.* Bossiaea cordifolia, a hairy shrub with
beautiful purple and yellow flowers, was common.
(*Footnote. D. brevifolia, Lindley manuscripts; glabra, ramis rigidis
strictis apice spinescentibus, foliis conicis spinosis subrecurvis,
racemis foliis duplo longioribus, bracteolis obovatis cucullatis.)
COUNTRY WELL WATERED.
August 2.
There was a noble reach a quarter of a mile below the point to which we
had brought the boats, and it was terminated by a rocky fall which we had
heard during the night. Beyond that point the river turned southward and,
this being the direction of our intended journey, I perceived that we
could more conveniently in less time pursue its course by land. The
country on its banks was, as far as I could see, the finest imaginable,
either for sheep and cattle or for cultivation. A little rill then
murmured through each ravine:
Whose scattered streams from granite basins burst,
Leap into life, and sparkling woo your thirst.
But it was in returning along a winding ridge towards the camp that I was
most struck with the beauty and substantial value of the country on the
banks of this river. It seemed that the land was everywhere alike good,
alike beautiful; all parts were verdant, whether on the finely varied
hills or in the equally romantic vales which seemed to open in endless
succession on both banks of the river. No time was lost this morning in
raising the boats out of the water and, having proceeded myself to the
camp at an early hour, and led the carts round, and the carriage to take
up the boats, the whole party was once more in movement by eleven
o'clock. As far as I had yet traced the course of the river it appeared
to flow towards the west-south-west, and it was thus doubtful, at that
stage of our progress, whether the estuary might not be to the westward
of Cape Northumberland; whereas my chief inducement in looking for a
river on this side of the Grampians was the promising situation afforded
by the great bay to the eastward of that cape for some harbour or
estuary, and this being more likely, considering the position of the
mountains. I had little doubt that under such circumstances some river
would be found to enter the sea there and, having left the Wimmera
flowing westward, and crossed as I imagined the highest ground that could
extend from the mountain range to Cape Bernouilli, I expected to meet at
length with rivers falling southward. The ultimate course of the Glenelg
could only be ascertained by following it down, and to do this by land
was not easy; first because it was joined by many small tributaries
flowing through deep valleys and from all points of the compass; and
secondly, because the general horizon was so level that no point
commanding any extensive view over the country could be found. Thus while
our main object was to pursue the river, we were obliged to grope our way
round the heads of ravines often very remote from it, but which were very
perplexing from their similarity to the ravine in which the main stream
flowed. A more bountiful distribution of the waters for the supply of a
numerous population could not be imagined, nor a soil better adapted for
cultivation. We this day crossed various small rivulets or chains of
ponds, each watering a grassy vale, sheltered by fine swelling hills. The
whole country consisted of open forest land on which grew a few gumtrees
(or eucalypti) with banksia and occasionally a few casuarinae.
FISHES PECULIAR TO DIFFERENT PONDS.
August 3.
The ponds where we had encamped were large and deep, and I endeavoured to
ascertain whether the cod-perch (Gristes peelii) inhabited these waters.
Neither this fine fish nor either of the two others found in the streams
flowing towards the interior from the eastern coast range have ever been
seen in the rivers which reach the eastern shores; and I had now
ascertained that all the waters in which we had procured the fish in
question belonged to the extensive basin of the Murray. We were at length
on channels evidently distinct, both from those leading to the eastern
coast and those belonging to the basin of the Murray. The beds of the
rivers flowing to the east coast are chiefly rocky, containing much sand
but very little mud, consequently no reeds grow on their banks, nor is
the freshwater mussel found in them, as in rivers on the interior side,
which in general flow over a muddy bed and are not unfrequently
distinguished by reedy banks. Judging therefore from the nature of the
soil of this southern region, the fishes peculiar to the Murray might be
looked for in the rivers of the south, rather than those fishes known in
the rivers falling eastward. It was important to ascertain at least what
point of the coast separated the rivers containing different kinds of
fish. In these ponds we caught only some very small fry, and the question
could not be satisfactorily determined, although the natives declared
that none of them were the spawn of cod-perch.
It was no easy matter now to ascertain in what direction the waters of
the valley ran, but by the tendency of the hollows on each side they
appeared to decline in general to the left or northward. In proceeding on
our route, the heads of other similar ravines rendered our course very
intricate: to have been shut in between any such ravine and the river
must have been rather embarrassing, and seemed then almost inevitable. We
had the good fortune however to avoid this; and at length, keeping along
dry ground, a beautiful scene appeared on the left in an open valley
about two miles in width where the hills sloped gradually to the
confluence of two streams, brimful of water, which shone through some
highly ornamental wood. Both streams came from valleys of a similar
character; and beyond them I saw hills of the finest forms, all clothed
with grass to their summits and many entirely clear of timber.
PIGEON PONDS.
A bronze-winged pigeon flew up just as I discovered the stream and, as
this bird had not been before seen by us on that side of the mountains, I
named the waters Pigeon ponds. we descended to that part of the valley
which lay in our proposed course and found that some of these ponds
rather deserved to be styled lakes. The soil was everywhere black and
rich.
SOFT SOIL AGAIN IMPEDES THE PARTY.
August 4.
Proceeding over ground of a similar character we crossed several fine
streams, some flowing in shallow channels over rocks, others in deep
ravines. The ground on the higher parts was however still so soft as to
yield to the wheels, and very much impeded the progress of the party,
especially at one place where an extensive lake, full of reeds or rushes,
appeared to the right. The drays sunk to the axles, the whole of the soil
in our way having become so liquid that it rolled in waves around the
struggling bullocks. The passage of some of the streams could not be
accomplished until we had filled up the bed with large logs, covered them
with boughs, and strewed over the whole, the earth cut away from the
steep banks. Under such circumstances I considered six miles a good day's
journey, and indeed too much for the cattle. I halted for the night with
a small advanced party only on a fine little stream running over a rocky
bed; while the main body was compelled to remain with the carts several
miles behind, having broken, in the efforts made to extricate the carts
and boat-carriage, many of the chains, and also a shaft. The small river
I had reached ran in a bed of little width, but was withal so deep that
it seemed scarcely passable without a bridge. At the junction however of
a similar one, some rocks, favourably situated, enabled us to effect a
passage by bedding logs between them and covering the whole with branches
and earth, leaving room for the water to pass between.
HALT TO REPAIR THE CARTS AND HARNESS.
August 5.
A halt was this day unavoidable, but the necessity was the less to be
regretted as the weather was very unfavourable. Indeed we had scarcely
seen one fine day for some weeks. Mr. Stapylton set out to trace the
rivulet downwards, and returned in the evening after having reached its
junction with the Glenelg at the distance of nine miles in a north-west
direction. The course of the river thus determined to that junction
appeared to be more to the westward than I had previously expected, and I
began again to think its estuary might still be to the westward of Cape
Northumberland, and this prospect induced me to alter our course. The
carts having come up about one P.M., the blacksmith was set to work and
wrought throughout the night to repair all the claw-chains.
NATIVES VERY SHY.
While other men were employed at the log-bridge some natives were heard
coming along the most southern of the two streams; whereupon Piper went
towards them as usual and found they were females with children; but from
the moment they discovered us until they were fairly out of hearing their
shrieks were so loud and incessant that it seemed, for once, our presence
in that country had been unknown to the surrounding natives, a proof
perhaps of the smallness of their numbers. In the evening other natives
(men) were heard approaching along the creek, and we at first supposed
they had come to that place as their rendezvous to meet the gins and
their families whom we had unwillingly scared; but Mr. Stapylton, during
his ride home along one side of the ravine, had observed four natives
very intent on following the outward track of his horses' hoofs on the
other; and these were doubtless the same men guided by his tracks to our
camp. They could not be brought to a parley however, although Piper and
Burnett at first invited them towards the camp and, when they set off,
pursued them across the opposite ridge.
CHETWYND RIVULET.
On the bank of this little stream I found a charming species of
Tetratheca, with large rich purple flowers and slender stems growing in
close tufts about a foot high. It was perhaps the most beautiful plant we
met with during the expedition.*
(*Footnote. T. ciliata, Lindley manuscripts; caulibus erectis tomentosis
filiformibus, foliis oppositis verticillatisque obovatis ovatisque
ciliatis subtus glabris, pedicellis setosis, sepalis ovatis concavis
acutis, petalis obovatis.)
August 6.
The passage of the rivulet which I named the Chetwynd, after Stapylton
who had explored it at considerable risk, was effected with ease by the
temporary bridge and we proceeded, soon crossing by similar means two
other running streams, probably tributaries to this.
SLOW PROGRESS OVER THE SOFT SURFACE.
When we had travelled four miles we came to a swamp where a considerable
current of water was flowing into it through some ponds; the margin of
this running water being broad, flat, and grassy, and having also lofty
gumtrees (white bark and eucalypti) growing on it. Unfortunately it was
so soft and rotten, as the men described it, that all the wheels sunk to
the axles and, although in such cases it was usual to apply the combined
force of several teams to draw each vehicle through in turn, we found
that the rising ground opposite was equally soft and yielding, so that
the cattle could have no firm footing to enable them to pull. It was
night before we could, with the strength of all the teams united by long
chains and yoked to each vehicle successively, bring the whole through,
the broad wheels of each cart actually ploughing to the depth of the axle
in soft earth; the labour of the cattle may therefore be imagined. We
encamped on a small barren plain much resembling a heath and just beyond
the swamp which had proved so formidable an impediment.
August 7.
Our progress this day was still less than that made during the preceding
one for it did not much exceed a mile. To that distance we had proceeded
tolerably well, having crossed two small running brooks, and all appeared
favourable before us. But a broad piece of rising ground which, being
sandy with banksia and casuarinae trees on it, I had considered firm
proved so very soft that even my own horse went down with me and wallowed
in the mud.
EXCURSION INTO THE COUNTRY BEFORE US.
There was no way of avoiding this spot, at least without delay, and I
ordered the men immediately to encamp, being determined to go forward
with a party on horseback and ascertain the position of some point where
the ground was more favourable, and then to adopt such a mode of
extricating the carts and proceeding thither as circumstances permitted.
I took with me provisions for three days that I might explore the
country, if necessary, to the coast.
BEAUTIFUL REGION DISCOVERED.
I had not proceeded above five miles southward when I perceived before me
a ridge in bluey distance, rather an unusual object in that close
country. We soon after emerged from the wood and found that we were on a
kind of tableland and, approaching a deep ravine coming from our right
and terminating on a very fine-looking open country below, watered by a
winding river. We descended by a bold feature to the bottom of the ravine
and found there a foaming little river hurrying downwards over rocks.
After fording this stream with ascended a very steep but grassy
mountain-side, and on reaching a brow of high land, what a noble prospect
appeared! a river winding amongst meadows that were fully a mile broad
and green as an emerald. Above them rose swelling hills of fantastic
shapes, but all smooth and thickly covered with rich verdure. Behind
these were higher hills, all having grass on their sides and trees on
their summits, and extending east and west throughout the landscape as
far as I could see. I hastened to ascertain the course of the river by
riding about two miles along an entirely open grassy ridge, and then
found again the Glenelg, flowing eastward towards an apparently much
lower country. All our difficulties seemed thus already at an end, for we
had here good firm ground, clear of timber, on which we could gallop once
more. The river was making for the most promising bay on the coast (for I
saw that it turned southward some miles below the hill on which I stood)
through a country far surpassing in beauty and richness any part hitherto
discovered. I hastened back to my men in the mud and arrived before
sunset with the good news, having found most of the intervening country
fit for travelling upon. Thus the muddy hill which had before seemed
unsurmountable led to the immediate discovery of the true course of the
river, and prevented me from continuing my route into the great angle of
its course over unfavourable ground instead of thus reaching it so much
sooner by a much less deviation from the course I wished to pursue. I now
hoped to extricate the carts in the morning and henceforward to
accomplish journeys of considerable length.
THE PARTY EXTRICATED WITH DIFFICULTY FROM THE MUD.
August 8.
It was in vain that I reconnoitred the environs of the hill of mud for
some portion of surface harder than the rest; and we could only extricate
ourselves by floundering through it. Patches of clay occurred but they
led only to places where the surface under the pressure of the cattle was
immediately converted into white and liquid mud. It was necessary to take
the loads from the carts and carry them by hand half a mile, and then to
remove the empty vehicles by the same means. After all this had been
accomplished the boat-carriage (a four-wheeled waggon) still remained
immovably fixed up to the axle-tree in mud in a situation where the block
and tackle used in hoisting out the boats could not be applied. Much time
was lost in our attempts to draw it through by joining all the chains we
possessed and applying the united strength of all the bullocks; but even
this was at length accomplished after the sun had set; the wheels, four
inches broad, actually cutting through to the full depth of the spokes.
On the eastern side of the hill the ground descended into a ravine where
it was grassy and firm enough; and it was a great relief to us all to
feel thus at liberty, even by sunset, to start next morning towards the
beautiful country which we now knew lay before us.