The Party quits the Murray.
Pyramid Hill.
Beautiful country seen from it.
Discovery of the river Yarrayne.
A bridge made across it.
Covered by a sudden rise of the river.
Then cross it in boats.
Useful assistance of Piper.
Our female guide departs.
Enter a hilly country.
Ascend Barrabungalo.
Rainy weather.
Excursion southward.
The widow returns to the party.
Natives of Tarray.
Their description of the country.
Discover the Loddon.
The woods.
Cross a range.
Kangaroos numerous.
The earth becomes soft and impassable, even on the sides of hills.
Discover a noble range of mountains.
Cross another stream.
Another.
General character of the country.
Proposed excursion to the mountains.
Richardson's creek.
Cross a fine stream flowing in three separate channels.
A ridge of poor sandy soil.
Cross another stream.
Trap-hills and good soil.
Ascend the mountain.
Clouds cover it.
A night on the summit.
No fuel.
View from it at sunrise.
Descend with difficulty.
Men taken ill.
New plants found there.
Repose in the valley.
Night's rest.
Natives at the camp during my absence.
THE PARTY QUITS THE MURRAY.
June 29.
The party moved forward in the direction of Mount Hope and, leaving it on
the left, we continued towards Pyramid Hill where we encamped at about
three-quarters of a mile from its base. We were under no restraint now in
selecting a camp from any scarcity of water or grass; for all hollows in
the plains contained some water and grass grew everywhere. The strips of
wood which diversified the country as seen from the hills generally
enclosed a depression with polygonum bushes, but without any marks of
having had any water in them although, in very wet seasons, some probably
lodges there, as in so many canals, and this indeed seemed to me to be a
country where canals would answer well, not so much perhaps for inland
navigation as for the better distribution of water over a fertile country
enclosed as this is by copious rivers.
PYRAMID HILL.
June 30.
Having seen the party on the way and directed it to proceed on a bearing
of 215 degrees from North I ascended the rocky pyramidic hill, which I
found arose to the height of 300 feet above the plain.
BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY SEEN FROM IT.
Its apex consisted of a single block of granite, and the view was
exceedingly beautiful over the surrounding plains, shining fresh and
green in the light of a fine morning. The scene was different from
anything I had ever before witnessed either in New South Wales or
elsewhere. A land so inviting and still without inhabitants! As I stood,
the first European intruder on the sublime solitude of these verdant
plains as yet untouched by flocks or herds, I felt conscious of being the
harbinger of mighty changes; and that our steps would soon be followed by
the men and the animals for which it seemed to have been prepared. A
haziness in the air prevented me however from perceiving clearly the
distant horizon from that summit, but I saw and intersected those
mountains to the southward which I had observed from Mount Hope.
The progress of the party was still visible from that hill, pursuing
their course over the distant plains like a solitary line of ants. I
overtook it when a good many miles on; and we encamped after travelling
upwards of fourteen miles in one uninterrupted straight line. Our camp
was chosen on the skirts of a forest of box, having a plain on the east
covered with rich grass, and where we found some small pools of
rainwater.
July 1.
Proceeding still on the bearing followed yesterday we reached at three
miles from our camp a fine chain of ponds. They were deep, full of water,
and surrounded by strong yarra trees. Passing them we met a small scrub
of casuarinae which we avoided; and we next entered on a fine plain in
which the anthisteria or oatgrass appeared. This is the same grass which
grows on the most fertile parts of the counties of Argyle and Murray and
is, I believe, the best Australian grass for cattle: it is also one of
the surest indications of a good soil and dry situation.
DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER YARRAYNE.
Beyond the plain the line of noble yarra trees, which I had observed from
Mount Hope, gave almost certain promise of a river; and at 6 1/2 miles
our journey was terminated by a deep running stream. The banks were steep
and about twenty feet high, but covered thickly with grass to the edge of
the water. The yarra trees grew by the brink of the stream and not on the
top of the bank. The water had a brown appearance as if it came from
melted snow but, from the equality of depth (about nine feet) and other
circumstances, I was of opinion that it was a permanent running stream.
The current ran at the rate of four chains in 122 seconds, or near 1 1/2
mile per hour; thus it would appear from what we had seen that there is
much uniformity in the velocity of the rivers, and consequently in the
general inclination of the surface. The banks of this little river were
however very different in some respects from any we had previously seen,
being everywhere covered thickly with grass. No fallen timber impeded its
course, nor was there any indication in the banks that the course was
ever in the least degree affected by such obstructions.
A BRIDGE MADE ACROSS IT.
It was so narrow that I anticipated little difficulty in making a bridge
by felling some of the overhanging trees. Finding a large one already
fallen across the stream where the slopes of the banks could be most
readily made passable, we lost no time in felling another which broke
against the opposite bank and sunk into the water. No other large trees
grew near but the banks were, at that place, so favourable for the
passage of the waggons that I determined to take advantage of the large
fallen tree; and to construct a bridge by bringing others of smaller
dimensions to it, according to the accompanying plan, and not unmindful
of the useful suggestions of Sir Howard Douglas respecting temporary
bridges.
July 2.
Late in the evening of this day we completed a bridge formed of short but
strong sleepers, laid diagonally to the fallen tree which constituted its
main support, and the whole was covered with earth from cuttings made in
the banks to render it accessible to the carts. At length everything was
ready for crossing and we had thus a prospect of being able to advance
beyond the river into that unknown but promising land of hill and dale.
COVERED BY A SUDDEN RISE OF THE RIVER.
July 3.
This morning our bridge was no longer to be seen, the river having risen
so much during the night that it was four feet under water. Yet no rain
had fallen for five days previous, and we could account for this
unexpected flood only by supposing that the powerful shining of the sun
during the last two days had melted the snow near the sources of the
stream. At noon the water had risen fourteen feet. A whispering sound
much resembling wind among the trees now arose from it and, however
inconvenient to us, the novelty of a sudden rise in the river was quite
refreshing, accustomed as we had been so long to wander in the beds of
rivers and to seek in vain for water. Our little bridge continued to be
passable even when covered with four feet of water but, as it had no
parapets, we could not prevent some of the bullocks from going over the
side on attempting to cross when it was thus covered.
THEN CROSS IT IN BOATS.
The river still continuing to rise, we were compelled at last to launch
the boats, and by this means we effected the passage of the whole party
and equipment before sunset; the boats having been also again mounted on
the carriage the same evening. The carts and boat-carriage were drawn
through the bed of the river by means of the drag-chains which reached
from the carriage on one side to a strong team of bullocks on the other.
USEFUL ASSISTANCE OF PIPER.
This was a very busy day for the whole party, black and white; I cannot
fairly say savage and civilised for, in most of our difficulties by flood
and field, the intelligence and skill of our sable friends made the
whitefellows appear rather stupid. They could read traces on the earth,
climb trees, or dive into the water better than the ablest of us. In
tracing lost cattle, speaking to the wild natives, hunting, or diving,
Piper was the most accomplished man in the camp. In person he was the
tallest, and in authority he was allowed to consider himself almost next
to me, the better to secure his best exertions. When Mr. Stapylton first
arrived Piper came to my tent and observed that "That fellow had TWO
coats," no doubt meaning that I ought to give one of them to him! The men
he despised, and he would only act by my orders. This day he rendered us
much useful assistance in the water; for instance, when a cart stuck in
the bottom of the river, the rope by which it was to be drawn through
having broken, Piper, by diving, attached a heavy chain to it, thereby
enabling the party to draw it out with the teams.
OUR FEMALE GUIDE DEPARTS.
At this place The Widow, being far beyond her own country, was inclined
to go back and, although I intended to put her on a more direct and safe
way home after we should pass the heads of the Murrumbidgee on our
return, I could not detain her longer than she wished. Her child, to whom
she appeared devotedly attached, was fast recovering the use of its
broken limb; and the mother seemed uneasy under an apprehension that I
wanted to deprive her of this child. I certainly had always wished to
take back with me to Sydney an aboriginal child with the intention of
ascertaining what might be the effect of education upon one of that race.
This little savage, who at first would prefer a snake or lizard to a
piece of bread, had become so far civilised at length as to prefer bread;
and it began to cry bitterly on leaving us. The mother however thought
nothing of swimming, even at that season, across the broad waters of the
Millewa, as she should be obliged to do, pushing the child before her,
floating on a piece of bark.
ENTER A HILLY COUNTRY.
July 4.
At the distance of about a mile to the southward a line of trees marked
the course of another channel which, containing only a few ponds, we
crossed without difficulty. Beyond it we traversed a plain five miles in
extent, and backed by low grassy hills composed of grey gneiss. The most
accessible interval between these hills still appeared to be in the
direction I had chosen at Mount Hope, as leading to the lowest opening of
a range still more distant: I therefore continued on that bearing, having
the highest of those hills to our left at the distance of five or six
miles. On entering the wood skirting the wide plain, our curiosity was
rather disappointed at finding, instead of rare things, the black-butted
gum and casuarinae, trees common in the colony. The woolly gum also grew
there, a tree much resembling the box in the bark on its trunk, although
that on the branches, unlike the box, is smooth and shining. In this wood
we recognised the rosella parrot, and various plants so common near
Sydney but not before seen by us in the interior.
At ten miles we travelled over undulating ground for the first time since
we left the banks of the Lachlan; and we crossed a chain of ponds
watering a beautiful and extensive valley covered with a luxuriant crop
of the anthisteria grass. Kangaroos were now to be seen on all sides, and
we finally encamped on a deeper chain of ponds, probably the chief
channel of the waters of that valley. A ridge of open forest-hills
appearing before us, I rode to the top of one of the highest summits
while the men pitched the tents; and from it I perceived a hilly country
through whose intricacies I at that time saw no way, and beyond it a
lofty mountain range arose in the south-west. To venture into such a
region with wheel-carriages seemed rather hazardous when I recollected
the coast ranges of the colony; and I determined to examine it further
before I decided whether we should penetrate these fastnesses, or travel
westward round them, thus to ascertain their extent in that direction and
that of the good land watered by them.
July 5.
I proceeded with several men mounted towards the lofty hill to the
eastward of our route, the highest of those I had intersected from Mount
Hope and the Pyramid-hill, its aboriginal name, as I afterwards learnt,
being Barrabungale.* Nearly the whole of our way was over granite rocks.
We had just reached a naked mass near the principal summit when the
clouds, which had been lowering for some time, began to descend on the
plains to the northward, and soon closing over the whole horizon
compelled me to return, without having had an opportunity of observing
more than that the whole mass of mountains in the south declined to the
westward. This was however a fact of considerable importance with respect
to our further progress; for I could enter that mountain-region with less
hesitation as I knew that I could leave it, if necessary, and proceed
westward by following down any of the valleys which declined in that
direction.
(*Footnote. Warrabangle is a very similar name and belongs to a hill
similarly situated five degrees further to the northward. See Map.)
ASCEND BARRABUNGALE. RAINY WEATHER. EXCURSION SOUTHWARD.
July 6.
The morning being rainy, I could learn nothing more by ascending
Barrabungale as I intended; but I rode into the country to the southward
in order to examine it in the direction in which I thought it most
desirable to lead the party. After passing over several well-watered
grassy flats or valleys, each bounded by open forest-hills, we crossed at
six miles from the camp a range the summit of which was covered by a low
scrub, but it did not much impede our way. Beyond this range we again
found open forest land, and we saw extensive flats still more open to our
right, in which direction all the waters seemed to fall. At length, after
travelling about twelve miles, we came upon a deep chain of ponds winding
through a flat thickly covered with anthisteria and resembling a field of
ripe grain. Smoke arose in all directions from an extensive camp of
natives but, although I cooeyed and saw them at a distance, they
continued to crouch behind trees and would not approach. I did not
disturb them further, but returned with the intention of leading the
party there the next day when I hoped to see more of these natives. An
abundance of a beautiful white or pale yellow-flowered, herbaceous plant
reminding me of the violets of Europe, to which it was nearly allied,
grew on the sides of hills.*
(*Footnote. This has been ascertained to be a new species of the genus
Pigea. P. floribunda, Lindley manuscripts; caule erecto ramoso, foliis
alternis linearibus et lineari-lanceolatis obtusis glabris, racemulis
secundis paucifloris foliis brevioribus, sepalis petalisque glandulosis
ovatis acutis, labelli lamina obovata rotundata basi bilamellata,
antheris sessilibus syngenistis apice lamina oblonga membranacea acutis,
processibus 2 corniformibus basi staminum 2 anteriorum.)
THE WIDOW RETURNS TO THE PARTY.
In the evening The Widow returned with her child on her back. She stated
that after we left our late encampment a numerous tribe arrived on the
opposite bank of the river and, seeing the fires on her side, called out
very angrily, as Piper translated her tale, "murry coola" (very angry);
inquiring who had made those fires, and that, receiving no reply (for she
was afraid and had hid herself) they danced a corrobory in a furious
style during which she and the child crept away, and had passed two
nights without fire and in the rain. Piper seemed angry at her return,
but I took particular care that she should be treated with as much
kindness as before. She was a woman of good sense and had been with us
long enough to feel secure under our protection, even from the wrath of
Piper as displayed on this occasion; and I discovered that her attempted
return home had been suggested by Piper's gin who probably anticipated a
greater share of food after The Widow's departure.
NATIVES OF TARRAY. THEIR DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.
July 7.
The party moved to the creek where I had before seen the natives; and
Piper found at their fires an old woman and several boys. They said,
pointing far to the south-east, doubtless to Port Phillip, that a station
of whitefellows was there and that they had been themselves to the sea,
which was not very distant. The old woman spoke with expressive gestures
of a part of the coast she called Cadong, where the waves raged; and of a
river she named Woollamaee running into it. It appeared that the rest of
the tribe were at that time in search of opossums; but she promised that
when they returned in the evening or next day some of them should visit
our camp.
July 8.
This morning Piper prevailed on an old man with his gins and some boys to
come to us. The former pointed towards Cadong in the direction of 232
degrees from North and, in reply to my queries through Piper, said it was
not Geelong (Port Phillip) but a water like it; and that no white men had
ever been there. On mentioning lake Alexandrina by its native name
Keyinga, he said that it was a place filled sometimes with rain (i.e.
river-) water and not like Cadong which was saltwater. He described the
whole country before us as abounding in good water and excellent grass;
and he said that in the direction I was pursuing there was no impediment
between me and the sea coast. Piper's countenance brightened up with the
good news this man gave him; assuring me that we should "find water all
about: no more want water." In return for all this intelligence I
presented the old man with an iron tomahawk which he placed under him as
he sat; and he continued to address me with great volubility for some
time. I was told by Piper that he was merely saying how glad he was, and
enumerating (apparently with a sort of poetic fervour) the various uses
to which he could apply the axe I had given him. I left these natives
with the impression on my mind that they were quiet, well-disposed
people.
FINE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.
Proceeding a little west of south-west we intersected this creek (Tarray)
three times, leaving it finally flowing southward and to our left, into
that of Dyoonboors which it joined at a mile and a half from where we had
been encamped. At three miles, having crossed a low ridge of forest land,
we entered a fine valley, backed on the west by romantic forest hills,
and watered by some purling brooks which united in the woods on the east.
The flat itself had a few stately trees upon it, and seemed quite ready
to receive the plough; while some round hillocks on the north were so
smooth and grassy that the men said they looked as if they had already
been depastured by sheep. From an extremity of the clear ridge I obtained
an extensive view of the mountain chain to the south-east; and I
intersected most of its summits. The whole seemed smooth (i.e. not rocky)
grassy, and thinly timbered. Crossing the lower or outer extremity of
this forest ridge, we entered another fine valley watered by a creek
which we passed at six miles from the commencement of the day's journey.
This little channel was grassy to the water's edge, and its banks were
firm and about eight feet high, the course being eastward. In the valley
I saw the Banksia for the first time since we left the Lachlan. A
calamifolia, or needle-leaved wattle, occurred also in considerable
quantity. After crossing two more brooks and some flats of fine land with
grassy forest-hills on our right, we reached the crest of a forest-range
which afforded an extensive view over the country beyond it. The surface
seemed to be low for some distance, but then to rise gradually towards
some rocky points over which were partially seen the summits of a higher
range still further southward.
DISCOVER THE LODDON.
The descent to the low country was easy for our carts; and we found there
a beautifully green and level flat, bounded on the south by a little
river flowing westward. The banks of this stream consisted of rounded
acclivities and were covered with excellent grass. The bed was 18 or 20
feet below the level of the adjacent flats and, from its resemblance in
some respects to the little stream in England, I named it the Loddon. We
encamped on its bank in latitude 36 degrees 36 minutes 49 seconds South,
longitude 143 degrees 35 minutes 30 seconds East.
July 9.
By continuing the same line of route we crossed several minor rivulets,
all flowing through open grassy vales bounded by finely undulating hills.
At about three miles we came to a deep chain of ponds, the banks being
steep and covered with grass. Keeping a tributary to that channel on our
left, we passed some low hills of quartz; and a little beyond them we
crossed poor hills of the same rock bearing an open box-forest.
THE WOODS.
After travelling through a little scrub we descended on one of the most
beautiful spots I ever saw: The turf, the woods, and the banks of the
little stream which murmured through the vale had so much the appearance
of a well kept park that I felt loth to injure its surface by the passage
of our cartwheels. Proceeding for a mile and a half along the rivulet and
through a valley wholly of the same description, we at length encamped on
a flat of rich earth (nearly quite black) and where the anthisteria grew
in greater luxuriance than I had ever before witnessed in Australian
grasses. The earth indeed seemed to surpass in richness any that I had
seen in New South Wales; and I was even tempted to bring away a specimen
of it. Our dogs killed three kangaroos, and this good fortune was most
timely as I had that very morning thought it advisable to reduce the
allowance of rations.
July 10.
Tracing upwards the rivulet of the vale we left this morning we passed
over much excellent grassy land watered by it, the channel containing
some very deep ponds surrounded by the white-barked eucalyptus.
CROSS A RANGE.
A hill on its bank consisted of a conglomerate in which the ferruginous
matter predominated over the embedded fragments of quartz. The ground
beyond was hilly, and we at length ascended a ridge, apparently an
extremity of a higher range. On these hills grew the varieties of
eucalypti known in the colony, such as ironbark, bluegum, and
stringybark. The lower grounds were so wet and soft, and the watercourses
in them so numerous, that I was desirous to follow a ridge as long as it
would take us in the direction in which we were proceeding; and this
range answered well for the purpose. Its crest consisted of ferruginous
sandstone much inclined, the strike extending north-north-west. I found
the opposite side much more precipitous, and that it overlooked a much
lower country. In seeking a favourable line of descent for the carts, I
climbed a still higher forest-hill on the left, which consisted chiefly
of quartz-rock. I not only recognised from that hill some lofty points to
the eastward, and obtained angles on them, but I also perceived very
rugged summits of a range at a great distance in the south-west. Having
selected among the various hills and dales before me that line of route
which seemed the best and, having taken its bearing, I returned to
conduct the carts by a pass along one side of that hill, having found it
in a very practicable state for wheel-carriages. At three miles beyond
the pass we crossed a deep creek running westward which I named the
Avoca, and we encamped on an excellent piece of land beyond it.
KANGAROOS NUMEROUS.
This day we had even better fortune in our field sports than on the one
before for, besides three kangaroos, we killed two emus, one of which was
a female and esteemed a great prize, for I had discovered that the eggs
found in the ovarium were a great luxury in the bush; and afforded us a
light and palatable breakfast for several days.
July 11.
At the end of two miles on this day's journey we crossed a deep stream
running westward. The height of its banks above the water was twelve
feet, and they were covered with a rich sward. The land along the margins
of the stream was as good as that we were now accustomed to see
everywhere around us, so that it was no longer necessary to note the
goodness or beauty of any place in particular. At four miles we passed
over a forest-hill composed of mica-slate and, after crossing another
good valley at six miles, I saw before us, on gaining a low forest ridge,
other grassy hills of still greater height, connected by a rock that cost
us less trouble to ascend than I expected.
THE EARTH BECOMES SOFT AND IMPASSABLE, EVEN ON THE SIDES OF HILLS.
It was in the valleys now that we met most difficulty, the earth having
become so soft and wet that the carts could be got through some places
only by the tedious process of dragging each successively with the united
strength of several teams.
DISCOVER A NOBLE RANGE OF MOUNTAINS.
From a high forest-hill about a mile east of our route I first obtained a
complete view of a noble range of mountains rising in the south to a
stupendous height, and presenting as bold and picturesque an outline as
ever painter imagined. The highest and most eastern summit was hid in the
clouds although the evening was serene. It bore West of South 26 degrees
54 minutes; and the western extremity, which consisted of a remarkably
round hill, bore 16 degrees 30 minutes South of West. Having descended
from the range by an easy slope to the southward, we passed through a
beautiful valley in which we crossed, at a mile and a quarter from the
hills, a fine stream flowing also westward; and in other respects similar
to those we had already met. I named it Avon water and we encamped on its
left bank.
CROSS ANOTHER STREAM.
July 12.
At two miles and a half from the spot where we had slept we crossed
another stream flowing west-north-west which I named the Small-burn.
Beyond it the ground was good and grassy, but at this season very soft,
so that the draught was most laborious for the cattle. At seven miles we
crossed a wet flat with ponds of water standing on it, and beyond we
entered on a clay soil altogether different from any hitherto passed on
this side the Yarrayne.
ANOTHER.
About eight miles from our camp we reached a fine running brook with
grassy banks, its course being to the north-west. The bed consisted of
red-sand and gravel, and the banks were about fourteen feet high,
presenting fine swelling slopes covered with turf. On this stream, which
I named the Dos casas, I halted, as it was doubtful whether some of the
carts could be brought even so far before night, the ground having proved
soft and rotten to such a degree, especially on the slopes of low hills,
that in some cases the united strength of three teams had been scarcely
sufficient to draw them through. It was night before the last cart
arrived, and two bullocks had been left behind in an exhausted state.
GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
July 13.
We had at length discovered a country ready for the immediate reception
of civilised man; and destined perhaps to become eventually a portion of
a great empire. Unencumbered by too much wood, it yet possessed enough
for all purposes; its soil was exuberant and its climate temperate; it
was bounded on three sides by the ocean; and it was traversed by mighty
rivers, and watered by streams innumerable. Of this Eden I was the first
European to explore its mountains and streams, to behold its scenery, to
investigate its geological character and, by my survey, to develop those
natural advantages certain to become, at no distant date, of vast
importance to a new people. The lofty mountain range which I had seen on
the 11th was now before us, but still distant between thirty and forty
miles; and as the cattle required rest I determined on an excursion to
its lofty eastern summit. Such a height was sure to command a view of the
country between these mountains and the sea in the direction of Lady
Julia Percy's Isles; and of that region between the range and those less
connected forest-hills I had seen to the eastward.
PROPOSED EXCURSION TO THE MOUNTAINS.
When I first discovered these mountains I perceived that the land
immediately to the eastward of them was very low and that, if I found it
necessary, I might conduct the party in that direction to the coast. I
was however more desirous to level my theodolite on that summit first,
and thus obtain valuable materials for the construction of an accurate
map of the whole country around it. I accordingly left the party encamped
and proceeded towards the mountain, accompanied by six men on horseback,
having previously instructed Mr. Stapylton to employ the men during my
absence in forming a way down the bank, and a good ford across the stream
in order that there might be no impediment to the immediate advance of
the party on my return.
RICHARDSON'S CREEK.
Pursuing the bearing of 193 degrees we crossed, at three miles from the
camp, a deep creek similar to that on which it was placed; and the first
adventure of the morning occurred here. The fordable place was so narrow
that the horse of one of the party plunged into the deep water with its
rider who, while the animal was swimming, incautiously pulled the bridle
and of course overturned it, so that they parted company in the water,
the horse reaching one bank, the rider the other. The latter, who was my
botanical collector Richardson, took his soaking on a cold frosty morning
so philosophically, talking to his comrades as he made his way to the
bank, partly swimming, partly floating on two huge portfolios, that I
gave his name to the creek, the better to reconcile him to his wet
jacket. We entered soon after upon one of the finest tracts of grassy
forest land we had ever seen. The whole country recently crossed was
good, but this was far better, having several broad and deep ponds, or
small lakes, in the woods, and all full of the clearest water. At eight
miles I perceived a forest-hill on my left (or to the eastward) and the
country before us was so open, sloping and green, that I felt certain we
were approaching a river; and we soon came upon one, which was full,
flowing and thirty feet wide, being broader than the Yarrayne but not so
uniformly deep. Unlike the latter river, reeds grew about its margin in
some places, and its banks, though grassy and fifteen feet high, were
neither so steep as those of the Yarrayne, nor so closely shut together.
CROSS A FINE STREAM FLOWING IN THREE SEPARATE CHANNELS.
We swam our horses across, but our progress had scarcely commenced again
on the other side when it was impeded by another similar stream or
channel. In this we managed, with Piper's assistance, to find a ford but,
at less than a quarter of a mile, we met a third channel, more resembling
the first in the height of its banks and velocity of the current, and
also from its flowing amongst bushes. This we likewise forded, and
immediately after we ascended a piece of rising ground which convinced me
that we had at length crossed all the branches of that remarkable river.
It is probable we came upon it where it received the waters of
tributaries, and some of these channels might be such.
A RIDGE OF POOR SANDY SOIL.
We next fell in with some undulating ground different in many respects
from any that we had traversed during the morning. The soil was poor and
sandy; and the stunted trees and shrubs of the Blue mountains grew upon
it, instead of the novelties we expected at such a great distance from
home. We also recognised the birds common about Sydney. On reaching the
higher part of this ground (at nine miles) I again saw the mountain which
then bore 196 degrees. The intervening ground seemed to consist of a low
ridge rather heavily wooded, its crest presenting a line as level as the
ocean. At eleven miles I supposed we were upon the dividing ground
between the sea-coast country and that of the interior, and on what
appeared to be the only connection between the forest mountains to the
eastward and the lofty mass then before us. We found upon this neck huge
trees of ironbark and stringybark; some fine forest-hills appeared to the
eastward and distant only a few miles.
CROSS SEVERAL FINE STREAMS.
At the end of sixteen, eighteen, nineteen, twenty-one, and twenty-three
miles we crossed small rivers, all flowing westward, and the third over
sandstone. After passing the last or fifth stream, we halted on a very
fine open, dry and grassy flat. We found a large fallen tree which we set
on fire and passed the night, a very mild one, most comfortably on the
ground beside it, with the intention of renewing our journey at daylight
in the morning.
TRAP-HILLS AND GOOD SOIL.
July 14.
On leaving our bivouac we crossed some hills of trap-rock which were
lightly wooded and covered with the finest grass in great abundance. The
scenery around them, the excellent quality of the soil, the abundance of
water and verdure, contrasted strangely with the circumstance of their
lying waste and unoccupied. It was evident that the reign of solitude in
these beautiful vales was near a close; a reflection which, in my mind,
often sweetened the toils and inconveniences of travelling through such
houseless regions. At the foot of the last hill, and about a mile on our
way, we crossed a chain of deep ponds running to the south-west. Beyond
them was a plain of the very finest open forest-land, on which we
travelled seven miles; and then came upon a river with broad deep reaches
of very clear water, and flowing towards the north-west. We easily found
a ford and, on proceeding, entered upon a tract of white sand where
banksia and casuarinae were the chief trees. There was also some good
grass but it grew rather thinly upon it. The next water we crossed was a
small mountain-torrent hurrying along to the eastward in a deep and rocky
channel overhung with bushes.
ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN.
Being now close under the mountain, we dismounted and sent our horses
back for the sake of food to the bank of the last-mentioned river. The
first part of our ascent, on foot, was extremely steep and laborious,
although it was along the most favourable feature I could find. Above it
the impediments likely to obstruct our further ascent were two high and
perpendicular rocky cliffs; but I had observed before ascending those
crevices and intervals between rocks where we might most easily effect an
ascent; and through these we accordingly penetrated without much
difficulty. The upper precipice consisted of cliffs about 140 feet in
perpendicular height. Fortunately the ablest of the men with me was a
house carpenter and, being accustomed to climb roofs, he managed to get
up and then assist the rest.
CLOUDS COVER IT.
Having gained the top of this second precipice, we found winter and
desolation under drizzling clouds which afforded but partial and
transient glimpses of the world below. The surface at the summit of the
cliffs was broad and consisted of large blocks of sandstone, separated by
wide fissures full of dwarf bushes of banksia and casuarinae. These rocks
were inclined but slightly towards the north-west and, the bushes being
also wet and curiously encrusted with heavy icicles, it was by no means a
pleasant part of our journey to travel nearly half a mile upwards, either
on the slippery rock or between fissures among wet bushes. At length
however we reached the highest point and found that it consisted of naked
sandstone. The top block was encrusted with icicles, and had become hoary
under the beating of innumerable storms. At the very summit I found a
small heath-like bushy Leucopogon, from six inches to a foot high. It was
in flower although covered with ice.* Also a variety of Leucopogon
villosus, with rather less hair than usual, and another species of the
same genus, probably new. Near the highest parts of the plateau I found a
new species of eucalyptus with short broad viscid leaves, and
rough-warted branches.**
(*Footnote. L. glacialis, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis pubescentibus,
foliis lineari-lanceolatis erectis contortis acutis ciliatis margine
scabris, floribus terminalibus solitaririis et aggregatis, pedicellis
pubescentibus distanter squamatis, calcibus glabris.)
(**Footnote. E. alpina, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis brevibus rigidis
angulatis, foliis alternis petiolatis ovato-oblongis viscosis basi
obliquis, umbellis axillaribus paucifloris petiolis brevioribus, operculo
hemisphaerico verrucoso inaequali tubo calycis turbinato verrucoso
breviore.)
A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT.
All around us was hidden in mist. It was now within half an hour of
sunset, but the ascent had cost so much trouble, and the country this
summit commanded was so interesting to us that I was unwilling to descend
without trying whether it might not be clear of clouds at sunrise. We had
not come prepared in any way to pass the night on such a wild and
desolate spot, for we had neither clothing nor food, nor was there any
shelter; but I was willing to suffer any privations for the attainment of
the object of our ascent. One man, Richardson, an old traveller, had most
wisely brought his day's provisions in his haversack, and these I divided
equally among FIVE. No rocks could be found near the summit to shelter us
from the piercing wind and sleet.
NO FUEL.
The thermometer stood at 29 degrees, and we strove to make a fire to
protect us from the piercing cold; but the green twigs, encrusted with
icicles, could not by our united efforts be blown into a flame sufficient
to warm us. There was abundance of good wood AT THE FOOT OF THE
CLIFFS--huge trees of ironbark, stringybark and bluegum but, had we
descended, a second ascent might have appeared too laborious on a mere
chance of finding the summit clear; so we remained above. The men managed
to manufacture some tea in a tin pot, and into the water as it boiled I
plunged a thermometer which rose to exactly 95 degrees of the centigrade
scale. We got through that night of misery as well as might have been
expected under the circumstances, and we succeeded in keeping the fire
alive although, while twigs were blown into red heat at one end, icicles
remained at the other, even within a few inches of the flame. In order to
maintain it through the night we divided, at eleven o'clock, the stock of
branches which had been gathered before dark into eight parcels, this
being the number of hours we were destined to sit shivering there; and as
each bundle was laid on the dying embers we had the pleasure at least of
knowing that it was an hour nearer daylight. I coiled myself round the
fire in all the usual attitudes of the blacks, but in vain; to get warm
was quite impossible, although I did once feel something like comfort
when one of the men gave me for a seat a flat stone on which the fire had
been blown for some hours. Partial cessations in the fall of sleet were
also cheering occasionally; but the appearance of stars two hours before
daylight promised to reward our enterprise and inspired me with hope.
VIEW FROM IT AT SUNRISE.
July 15.
At six o'clock the sky became clear, the clouds had indeed left the
mountain and, as soon as it was day, I mounted the frozen rock. In the
dawn however all lower objects were blended in one grey shade, like the
dead colouring of a picture. I could distinguish only a pool of water,
apparently near the foot of the mountain. This water I afterwards found
to be a lake eight miles distant and in my map I have named it Lake
Lonsdale, in honour of the Commandant then or soon after appointed at
Port Phillip. I hastily levelled my theodolite but the scene, although
sublime enough for the theme of a poet, was not at all suited to the more
commonplace objects of a surveyor. The sun rose amid red and stormy
clouds, and vast masses of a white vapour concealed from view both sea
and land save where a few isolated hills were dimly visible. Towards the
interior the horizon was clear and, during a short interval, I took what
angles I could obtain. To the westward the view of the mountain ranges
was truly grand. Southward or towards the sea I could at intervals
perceive plains clear of timber and that the country was level, a
circumstance of great importance to us; for I was apprehensive that
between these mountains and the coast it might be broken by mountain
gullies as it is in the settled colony and all along the Eastern coast.
If such had proved to be the case the carts could not have been taken
there; and I must have altered the plan of my intended route. Before I
could observe the angles so desirable clouds again enveloped the
mountain, and I was compelled to quit its summit without completing the
work. The wind blew keenly, the thermometer stood as low as 27 degrees,
and in the morning the rocks were more thickly encrusted with ice.
DESCEND WITH DIFFICULTY.
The difficulty of our descent under such circumstances was therefore
increased but no impediment could have arrested us then, the lower
regions having so many attractive charms for such cold and hungry beings.
MEN TAKEN ILL.
That night on the summit materially injured the health of two of my best
men who had been with me on all three of my expeditions. Muirhead was
seized with ague and Woods with a pulmonary complaint; and although both
recovered in a few weeks they were never so strong afterwards.
NEW PLANTS FOUND THERE.
We found upon the mountain, besides those already mentioned, various
interesting plants which we had seen nowhere else. Amongst them:
A most beautiful downy-leaved Epacris with large, curved, purple flowers,
allied to E. grandiflora but much handsomer.*
(*Footnote. E. tomentosa, Lindley manuscripts; foliis ovatis acutis
planis crassis tomentosis, floribus cernuis, corolla arcuata
infundibulari laciniis obtusis apiculatis.)
A most remarkable species of Phebalium* with holly-like leaves and bright
red flowers resembling those of a Boronia. It was related to P.
phylicifolium but quite distinct.
(*Footnote. P. bilobum, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis tomentosis, foliis
glabris cordato-ovatis retusis bilobis dentatis margine revolutis,
pedicellis axillaribus pubescentibus folio brevioribus, ovario tricorni.)
A new Cryptandra remarkable for its downy leaves.*
(*Footnote. C. tomentosa, Lindley manuscripts; undique dense tomentosa,
ramulis racemosis, foliis fasciculatis linearibus obtusis marginibus
revolutis contiguis, capitulis terminalibus congestis, calycibus
campanulatis bracteis acutis scariosis parum longioribus. Next to C.
propinqua.)
A beautiful species of Baeckea, with downy leaves and rose-coloured
flowers resembling those of the dwarf almond.*
(*Footnote. B. alpina, Lindley manuscripts; tota pubescens, foliis
lineari-ovatis petiolatis obtusis concavis, pedicellis axillaribus et
terminalibus foliis longioribus supra medium bibracteatis: bracteis
oppositis obovatis cucullatis, laciniis calycinis cordatis obtusis
petalis denticulatis duplo brevioribus, antheris apice verruciferis.)
A new Pultenaea allied to P. biloba, but more hairy and with the flowers
half concealed among the leaves.*
(*Footnote. P. montana, Lindley manuscripts; foliis obcordatis muticis
lobis rotundatis supra scabris utrinque ramulisque hirsutis, capitulis
solitariis terminalibus sessilibus foliis parum longioribus, calycibus
villosis laciniis subulatis appressis.)
A new species of Bossiaea which had the appearance of a rosemary bush,
and differed from all the published kinds in having linear pungent
leaves.*
(*Footnote. B. rosmarinifolia, Lindley manuscripts; ramis teretibus
villosis, foliis linearibus pungentibus margine revolutis supra glabris
subtus pallidis pilosis, floribus solitariis axillaribus.)
A beautiful new and very distinct species of Genetyllis, possessing
altogether the habit of a Cape Diosma, the heath-like branches being
terminated by clusters of bright pink and white flowers.*
(*Footnote. G. alpestris, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis piloso-hispidis,
foliis linearibus tetragonis scabro-pilosis, capitulis sessilibus
terminalibus nudis rachi lanata, tubo ovarii pentagono pubescente,
sepalis petalis pluries brevioribus, stigmate glaberrimo.)
Several species of Grevillea, particularly a remarkable kind with leaves
like those of a European holly, but downy.*
(*Footnote. G. aquifolium, Lindley manuscripts propria; foliis oblongis
extra medium incisis: lobis triangularibus apice spinosis; adultis super
glabratis: subter mollibus pubescentibus, racemis pedunculatis, calycibus
villosis, ovario hirsutissimo, stylo glabro.)
Another fine new species with leaves like those of a European oak.*
(*Footnote. G. variabilis, Lindley manuscripts propria; incana, foliis
cuneatis angulatis oblogisve basi cuneatis pinnatifidis sinuatis
angulatisque subtus tomentosis lobis mucronatis triangularibus vel
rotundatis, racemis tomentosis pedunculatis.)
And a third with brownish red flowers and hoary leaves; varying from an
erect straight-branched bush to a diffuse entangled shrub.*
(*Footnote. G. alpina, Lindley manuscripts Ptychocarpa; foliis
lineari-oblongis tomentosis muticis margine revolutis supra subtus pilis
appressis sericeis, racemis paucifloris, pistillis basi hirsutissimis,
calycibus ferrugineis tomentosis. alpha, ramis erectis, foliis
longioribus angustioribus. beta, ramis diffusis intricatis, foliis
brevioribus nunc mollibus nunc supra scabris.)
Lastly a new Leucopogon, besides that found on the summit as already
mentioned.*
(*Footnote. L. rufus, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis foliis que subtus
pubescentibus, foliis ovatis acuminatis apice spinosis erectis concavis
supra laevigatis subtus striatis margine laevibus, floribus subsolitariis
sessilibus axillaribus, barba corollae cinnamomea.)
ON THE APPLICATION OF NAMES.
In adding this noble range of mountains to my map I felt some difficulty
in deciding on a name. To give appellations that may become current in
the mouths of future generations has often been a perplexing subject with
me, whether they have been required to distinguish new counties, towns,
or villages, or such great natural features of the earth as mountains and
rivers. I have always gladly adopted aboriginal names and, in the absence
of these, I have endeavoured to find some good reason for the application
of others, considering descriptive names the best, such being in general
the character of those used by the natives of this and other countries.
Names of individuals seem eligible enough when at all connected with the
history of the discovery or that of the nation by whom it was made. The
capes on the coast I was then approaching were chiefly distinguished with
the names of naval heroes and, as such capes were but subordinate points
of the primitive range, I ventured to connect this summit with the name
of the sovereign in whose reign the extensive, valuable, and interesting
region below was first explored; and I confess it was not without some
pride as a Briton that I more majorum* gave the name of the Grampians to
these extreme summits of the southern hemisphere.
(*Footnote.
Procedo, et parvam Trojam, simulataque magnis
Pergama, et arentem Xanthi cognomine rivum,
Agnosco. Aen. lib 3.)
REPOSE IN THE VALLEY.
We reached the banks of the little river where the horses awaited us in
three hours, the distance being eight miles from the summit of Mount
William. There we found a large fire and, under a wide spreading
casuarina during a delightful interval of about twenty minutes, I enjoyed
the pleasures of eating, sleeping, resting, and warming myself, almost
all at the same time. To all who would know how to enjoy most intensely a
good fire, shelter, sunshine, and the dry soft turf I would recommend, by
way of whet, a winter night on a lofty mountain, without fire, amidst
frost-covered rocks and clouds of sleet. I shall long remember the
pleasure of those moments of repose which I enjoyed on my arrival in the
warm valley after such a night. We could afford no longer delay however,
having brought provisions only for one day with us, whereas this was the
morning of the third of our absence from the camp. Retracing our steps we
reached the little river only at eight in the evening and, as I hoped to
find a ford in it at daylight, we lay down on its bank for the night.
NIGHT'S REST.
July 16.
I slept on a snug bit of turf within two feet of the stream; so that the
welcome murmur of its rippling waters assisted my dreams of undiscovered
rivers. As soon as morning dawned I succeeded in finding a ford on that
branch across which we swam our horses on the 13th. We thus met with less
cause of delay and reached the camp at an early hour, with excellent
appetites for breakfast.
NATIVES AT THE CAMP DURING MY ABSENCE.
Two natives had visited the party during my absence and had slept by the
fires. They had been at cattle stations and could say "milk." They
consequently approached our camp boldly, and during the night showed much
restlessness, endeavouring to decoy the gins away with them. But The
Widow gave the alarm, and very properly handed over these insidious
wooers to the especial surveillance of the man on duty. Notwithstanding
they were vigilantly watched they contrived to steal a tomahawk, and went
off leaving their wooden shovels at our camp, saying they should return.
I had now several men on the sicklist, but under the treatment of
Drysdale, our medical attendant, they speedily recovered.