Cross various rivulets.
Enter the valley of Nangeela.
Native female and child.
Encamp on the Glenelg.
Cross the Wannon.
Rifle range.
Mount Gambier first seen from it.
Sterile moors crossed by the party.
Natives numerous but not accessible.
Again arrive on the Glenelg.
Indifferent country on its banks.
Breadth and velocity of the river.
Encamp on a tributary.
Difficult passage.
The expedition brought to a stand in soft ground.
Excursion beyond.
Reach a fine point on the river.
The carts extricated.
The whole equipment reaches the river.
The boats launched on the Glenelg.
Mr. Stapylton left with a depot at Fort O'Hare.
Character of the river.
Ornithorynchus paradoxus.
Black swans.
Water brackish.
Isle of Bags.
Arrival at the seacoast.
Discovery bay.
Mouth of the Glenelg.
Waterholes dug in the beach.
Remarkable hollow.
Limestone cavern.
One fish caught in the Glenelg.
Stormy weather.
Return to the depot.
Difference in longitude.
CROSS VARIOUS RIVULETS.
August 9.
Once more in a state of forward movement we crossed green hills and
running brooks until, when we had travelled nearly six miles from Muddy
Camp and had crossed six fine streams or burns, we met with a more
formidable impediment in the seventh. The sides of this ravine were so
uncommonly steep that our new difficulty was how to move the vehicles
down to the bank of the stream. In one place where a narrow point of
ground projected across, a passage seemed just possible; and after we had
made it better with spades we attempted to take a light cart over. The
acclivity was still however rather too much, and over went the cart,
carrying the shaft bullock with it, and depositing all my instruments
etc. under it in the bed of the stream. With travellers on roads this
might have been thought a serious accident, but in our case we were
prepared for joltings, and nothing was in the least degree injured;
neither was the animal hurt, and we ascertained by the experiment,
dangerous though it was, that still more was necessary to be done for the
passage of the heavy carts and boats which were still some way behind;
and I encamped on the bank beyond that the men might set about this work.
No time was lost in filling up the hollow with all the dead trees that
lay about and what others we could cut for the purpose; and thus before
sunset the three carts and one waggon were got across. The rocks in the
bed of this stream consisted of grey gneiss, and on the hills beyond it I
found nodules of highly ferruginous sandstone.
ENTER THE VALLEY OF NANGEELA.
August 10.
By means of a block and tackle attached to a large tree the remaining
carts and the boat-carriage were safely lowered to the bed of the stream.
To draw them up the opposite bank was practicable only by uniting the
strength of several teams, yet this too was effected successfully and the
whole party were enabled to go forward in the morning. At a mile and a
half from the camp a scene was displayed to our view which gladdened
every heart. An open grassy country extending as far as we could
see--hills round and smooth as a carpet, meadows broad, and either green
as an emerald or of a rich golden colour from the abundance, as we soon
afterwards found, of a little ranunculus-like flower. Down into that
delightful vale our vehicles trundled over a gentle slope, the earth
being covered with a thick matted turf, apparently superior to anything
of the kind previously seen. That extensive valley was enlivened by a
winding stream, the waters of which glittered through trees fringing each
bank.
NATIVE FEMALE AND CHILD.
As we went on our way rejoicing I perceived at length two figures at a
distance who at first either did not see or did not mind us. They proved
to be a gin with a little boy and as soon as the female saw us she began
to run. I presently overtook her, and with the few words I knew prevailed
on her to stop until the two gins of our party could come up; for I had
long been at a loss for the names of localities. This woman was not so
much alarmed as might have been expected; and I was glad to find that she
and the gins perfectly understood each other. The difference in the
costume on the banks of the Wando immediately attracted the notice of the
females from the Lachlan. The bag usually carried by gins was neatly wove
in basketwork and composed of a wiry kind of rush. She of Wando carried
this bag fastened to her back, having under it two circular mats of the
same material, and beneath all a kangaroo cloak, so that her back at
least was sufficiently clothed, although she wore no dress in front. The
boy was supported between the mats and cloak; and his pleased and
youthful face, he being a very fine specimen of the native race,
presented a striking contrast to the miserable looks of his whining
mother. In the large bag she carried some pieces of firewood and a few
roots, apparently of tao, which she had just been digging from the earth.
Such was the only visible inhabitant of this splendid valley resembling a
nobleman's park on a gigantic scale. She stated that the main river was
called Temiangandgeen, a name unfortunately too long to be introduced
into maps. We also obtained the gratifying intelligence that the whole
country to the eastward was similar to these delightful vales and that,
in the same direction, as Piper translated her statement, "there was no
more sticking in mud." A favourable change in the weather accompanied our
fortunate transition from the land of watery soil and dark woody ravines
to an open country. The day was beautiful; and the balmy air was
sweetened by a perfume resembling hay which arose from the thick and
matted herbs and grass. Proceeding along the valley the stream on our
left vanished at an isolated rocky hill; but, on closer examination, I
found the apparent barrier cleft in two, and that the water passed
through, roaring over rocks. This was rather a singular feature in an
open valley where the ground on each side of it was almost as low as the
rocky bed of the stream itself. The hill was composed of granular felspar
in a state of decomposition; the surrounding country consisting chiefly
of very fine-grained sandstone. It is not easy to suppose that the river
could ever have watered the valley in its present state and forced its
way since through that isolated hill of hard rock; as to believe that the
rock, now isolated, originally contained a chasm, and afforded once the
lowest channel for the water before the valley now so open had been
scooped out on each side by gradual decomposition. Another rivulet
approached this hill, flowing under its eastern side and joining the
Wando just below. According to my plan of following down the main river
it was necessary to cross both these tributaries.
ENCAMP ON THE GLENELG.
In the open part of the valley the channels of these streams were deep
and the banks soft; but at the base of the hill of Kinganyu (for such was
its name) we found rock enough and, having effected a passage there of
both streams that afternoon, we encamped after travelling about three
miles further on the banks of the Glenelg once more. Our route lay
straight across an open grassy valley at the foot of swelling hills of
the same description. Each of these valleys presented peculiar and very
romantic features, but I could not decide which looked most beautiful.
All contained excellent soil and grass, surpassing in quality any I had
seen in the present colony of New South Wales. The chase of the emu and
kangaroo, which were both numerous, afforded us excellent sport on these
fine downs. When about to cross the Wando I took my leave of the native
woman before mentioned, that she might not have the trouble of fording
the river, and I presented her with a tomahawk of which our females
explained to her the use, although she seemed still at a loss to conceive
the meaning of a present. The use of the little hatchet would be well
enough known however to her tribe so, leaving her to return to it and
assuring her at the same time of our friendly disposition towards the
natives, we proceeded.
The left bank of the principal stream was very bold where we reached it
on this occasion, but still open and covered with rich turf. The right
bank was woody and this was generally its character at the other points
where we had seen the Glenelg. It was flowing with considerable rapidity
amongst the same kind of bushes we had met with above, but they did not
appear so likely here to obstruct the passage of boats.
On the plains we found a singular acacia, the leaves being covered with a
clammy exudation resembling honey-dew. It differed from A. graveolens in
its much more rigid habit, shorter and broader leaves, and much shorter
peduncles.*
(*Footnote. A. exudans, Lindley manuscripts; ramis crassis rigidis
angulatis leviter pubescentibus, phyllodiis oblongo-lanceolatis
mucronatis oblique binerviis viscido-punctatis basi obsolete glandulosis,
capitulis 1-2 axillaribus, pedunculis lanatis, bracteolis rigidis acutis
pubescentibus alabastris longioribus (capitulis echinatis).)
August 11.
Passing along the bank of the river under the steep grassy hills which
consisted of very fine-grained, calcareous sandstone, we began two miles
on to ascend these heights; as well to avoid a place where they closed
precipitously on the Glenelg as to gain a point from which I hoped to
command an extensive view of its further course, and so cut off some of
the windings. From that point, or rather on riding through the woods to
some distance beyond it, I perceived that the river was joined by another
coming from the south-east through an open country of the finest
character. Below their junction the principal river disappeared on
passing through a woody range, and turned towards the south-west.
JUNCTION OF THE WANNON.
Nothing could be seen beyond the crest which seemed a very predominant
feature bounding the fine valley of the Wannon on the south. By turning
round the eastern brow of the high ground on which we then were we gained
a long ridge of smooth grassy land, leading by an easy descent from this
height to the junction of the rivers. This high ground was thickly wooded
with stringybark trees of large dimensions, and a few other eucalypti,
together with banksia and casuarinae. The soil there was soft and sandy
and the substratum contained masses of ironstone. The shrubs upon the
whole reminded me of those in the wooded parts of the sandhills on the
shores of Port Jackson. Smoke arose from various parts of the distant
country before us; and we perceived one native running at prodigious
speed across the plain below.
CROSS THE WANNON.
On reaching the banks of the Wannon we found it a deep flowing stream,
about half as large as the river itself. We succeeded in finding a ford
and crossed after cutting away some bushes and levelling the banks.
Beyond the Wannon we travelled 2 3/4 miles over a portion of very fine
country and encamped in a little vale in the bosom of a woody range, the
western side of which overhung the river at the distance of two miles.
August 12.
A fine clear morning gave full effect to the beauty of the country which
I now saw to the eastward from a hill near our camp. The summit of the
Victoria range crowned the distant landscape; and the whole of the
intervening territory appeared to consist of green hills, partially
wooded. We crossed a mountain-stream by filling up its bed with logs and,
as we ascended the slopes beyond, we found the country grassy until we
reached the high and wooded crest. Lofty stringybark trees and other
timber grew there on a white sandy soil; but we found among the bushes
abundance of the anthisteria or kangaroo grass.
After travelling some miles beyond this crest we at length found the
ground sloping to the southward; and some swampy hollows with reeds in
them obliged us to turn to the right or south-west, as the water in these
depressed parts falling eastward, or to the left, showed that we were not
so very near the river, on the right, which I was endeavouring to follow.
We were delayed in several of these hollows by the sinking of the carts
and boat-carriage.
RIFLE RANGE.
We next traversed an extensive moor or heath on which the rising ground
was firm, and a little way beyond it some rising ground bounded our view.
On ascending this highest feature which I named the Rifle range I found
it commanded an extensive view over a low and woody country.
MOUNT GAMBIER FIRST SEEN FROM IT.
One peaked hill alone appeared on the otherwise level horizon and this
bore 68 degrees West of South. I supposed this to be Mount Gambier near
Cape Northumberland which, according to my survey, ought to have appeared
in that direction at a distance of forty-five miles.
STERILE MOORS CROSSED BY THE PARTY.
I expected to find the river on reaching the lower country beyond this
range; but instead of the Glenelg and the rich country on its banks we
entered on extensive moors of the most sterile description. They were
however firm enough for travelling upon, the surface being very level and
the soil a whitish sand. These open wastes were interrupted in some parts
by clumps of stringybark forest which entirely concealed from view the
extent of this kind of country. Swamps full of water and containing reeds
of a dark yellow colour at length became numerous; and although I
succeeded in pursuing a course clear of these obstacles, we were obliged
to encamp at twilight without having any immediate prospect of a better
country before us. There was however abundance of grass in these wet
swamps and our carts passed over one quite covered with water without
sinking. Our camp was marked out on a low hill of white sand on which
grew mahogany and stringybark trees of large dimensions. The ridge from
which we had descended now appeared continuous as far as we could see
eastward.
NATIVES NUMEROUS BUT NOT ACCESSIBLE.
Much smoke arose from this lower country when we entered upon it and
after sunset the incessant calls of a native were heard near our camp as
if he had lost some comrade. I sent up a rocket that he might be
convinced we had not arrived by stealth as the tribes do when they
insidiously make war on each other, but he only reiterated his calls the
more.
August 13.
At daybreak the cries of the native were renewed. I then made Piper cooey
to him whereupon he became silent and I heard him no more, the natives of
that country being, as Piper expressed it "still very wild." This morning
we were on the march as soon as the sun rose, all being very anxious to
see the river again and a better country. At two miles we passed along a
sandy ridge between two extensive swamps; but at a mile and a half
farther I found at length a small hollow and water running in it, a
feature which convinced me at once that the river could not be very
distant. In the bank there was a thin stratum of shelly limestone bearing
a resemblance to some of the oolitic limestones of England; and in the
bed were irregular concretions of ironstone containing grains of quartz,
some of the concretions having externally a glazed appearance arising
from a thin coating of compact brown haematite.
AGAIN ARRIVE ON THE GLENELG.
Casuarinae and banksia growing on grassy slopes were the next marks of a
different country from that of the swamps, and at less than a mile from
this point we came upon the river.
INDIFFERENT COUNTRY ON ITS BANKS.
Its banks had a different character from that which they presented above
but they were still fine.
BREADTH AND VELOCITY OF THE RIVER.
The river now flowed in a narrow valley, the bed being about 70 feet
below the common level of the swampy flats. At sharp bends the banks
consisted of cliffs of a soft limestone, composed in part of comminuted
fragments of corallines, the interstices being rarely filled up; the rock
contained also a few specimens of Foraminifera, most probably of recent
species. In the narrow valley all was flourishing and green, attesting
the rich luxuriance of the alluvial soil. The mimosa trees predominated,
but still the bushes of leptospermum darkened the stream which was deep,
rapid, and muddy, its breadth being about 40 yards and the bed consisting
of a friable or soft calcareous sandstone. In accompanying it in its
course downward we met with less difficulty than I had expected, but I
perceived that the barren swampy land, or more frequently the stringybark
forests, approached the higher banks on both sides the river. The few
ravines falling in our way were only the drains from swamps close at hand
and they were easily crossed by the party at the fall of the ground,
where we found rocky strata.
ENCAMP ON A TRIBUTARY.
After tracing the river more than four miles we encamped on an elevated
point overlooking a flat of good grass, so necessary for the cattle.
August 14.
Some of the bullocks were missing and we were compelled to wait an hour
or two while parties went in search of them; one party being guided by
Piper, the other by the two Tommies. I availed myself of the leisure
afforded by this delay to measure the breadth, depth, and velocity of the
river which were respectively as follows:
Average breadth: 35 yards.
Mean depth: 17 feet.
Velocity of the current: 1,863 yards per hour; the general course, as far
as we had traced this portion being nearly South-East.
When most of the cattle had been brought in we proceeded and, in
endeavouring to keep along the highest ground between the swamps, I
unavoidably left the river at some distance on our right, a circumstance
I considered of less consequence as the ground appeared to be falling on
my left towards some tributary; and at four miles we came upon a small
river flowing rapidly in a valley nearly as deep and wide as the main
stream. The country on its immediate bank looked better than that last
found on the main stream. Limestone rock appeared in the bank opposite
and at the foot of some cliffs we found fossil oyster-shells. Mr.
Stapylton traced this stream to its junction with the river about two
miles lower down.
August 15.
Two bullocks were still missing and I had recourse to compulsory measures
with Piper and the man who lost them in order to find them again: I
declared that unless they were found Piper should have no provisions for
a week; and I condemned the man who lost them to be kept every second
night on watch during the remainder of the journey.
DIFFICULT PASSAGE OF THE STOKES.
The passage of the little river (which named the Stokes in memory of a
brother officer who fell at Badajoz) was not to be easily accomplished,
owing to the depth and softness of the alluvial soil through which it
flowed. One place passable on horseback was found after long search by
Mr. Stapylton and myself. Out of the bed of the stream at that part we
drew some dead trees and after two hours of great exertion the passage of
the boat-carriage and carts was effected, the latter sinking deeper in
the water than they ever had done in any river which we had previously
forded.
THE EXPEDITION BROUGHT TO A STAND IN SOFT GROUND.
We found the country beyond very intricate, being so intersected with
swamps draining off in all directions, and so divided by stringybark
forests, that it was next to impossible to avoid the soft swampy ground
or reach the riverbank again. We headed one deep ravine falling towards
it, and had indeed travelled in the desired direction about four miles
further on dry ground, but only by winding about as the swamps permitted
when at length the ground appeared to slope towards the river, being also
covered with the fine grass and the kind of trees which usually grew near
it. But this ground notwithstanding its firm appearance proved to be as
soft as that of Mount Mud; and it spread at length around us on all sides
except that from which we had approached it by so circuitous a route.
EXCURSION BEYOND.
We had no alternative but to cross this bad ground and, after finding out
by careful examination the narrowest part, we prepared to puts to the
nearest firm ground beyond, an undertaking infinitely more difficult and
laborious to us than the passage of the broadest river. One of the carts
was with much labour taken across and, being anxious to know the actual
situation of the river, I rode southward into the wood taking with me the
chain or measuring men, and leaving the rest of the people at work in the
mud. I found much of the ground equally soft as I proceeded, but all
consisted of excellent open forest land covered with good grass. I found
there a woolly Correa, profusely covered with pink bell-shaped blossoms
and small round rufous leaves;* and the beautiful Kennedya prostrata was
climbing among the bushes and rendering them brilliant with its rich
crimson flowers.
(*Footnote. C. rotundifolia, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis rufis
villosissimis, foliis subrotundis brevi-petiolatis supra scabris subtus
villosis saepius emarginatis, corollis campanulatis brevibus
subtetrapetalis, calyce truncato rufo villosissimo.)
REACH A FINE POINT ON THE RIVER.
At length I approached a ravine on the left which I at first took for
that of the river; but I soon perceived through the trees on my right a
still greater opening, and there I at last found the valley of the
Glenelg. In the ravine to the left ran another small stream rather larger
than that crossed yesterday. We reached the bank of this at 2 3/4 miles
from the place where we left the party and at about half a mile above its
junction with the main stream. The high ground between the two streams
terminated in a round grassy promontory overlooking one of the finest
flats imaginable. I determined to endeavour once more to explore the
river's course with the boats; provided we should succeed in transporting
them over the mud to this spot; and I returned with this intention to the
muddy scene where I had left the men. It was quite dark before I found it
again and then they had succeeded in getting through only the three light
carts. I did not despair of accomplishing the passage, at least in the
course of time; but I was indeed impatient for daylight that I might
carefully examine with that view all parts of the country between our
camp and the place where I intended to launch the boats into the Glenelg
again.
THE CARTS EXTRICATED BY PROCEEDING WITH GREAT CAUTION.
August 16.
This morning it rained heavily and there was a balmy and refreshing
mildness in the air, probably owing to the vicinity of the sea. It
occurred to me that, as the ground appeared to slope towards the
south-east, we might reach some hollow on that side leading to the little
river we discovered yesterday; and that such a hollow would afford the
best chance of escape from the soft flats which now impeded us, since the
drainage they afforded to the immediate banks was likely to leave them at
least firm enough to be travelled upon. On this principle alone I
understood why the ground on the banks of the stream seen yesterday was
so firm; and I therefore hoped that the head of any ravine found near our
camp would lead by a dry though perhaps circuitous route first to the
tributary, and next by its bank to the point already mentioned where it
joined the Glenelg. I accordingly instructed Mr. Stapylton to examine the
ground in the direction proposed while I superintended the exertions of
the party to drag the boat-carriage through the mud. We finally succeeded
in this last effort and, just as I stood watching with joy the ascent of
the carriage to the firm ground beyond, Mr. Stapylton came to me with the
intelligence that he had found the head of a ravine and firm ground on
its bank in the direction where he had been. One bad place alone
intervened between our present position and the firm ground at the head
of the ravine but this Mr. Stapylton said was very bad indeed. By 10 A.M.
everything was got across the first swamp, the loads of all the carts
having been carried by the men. To the new difficulty mentioned by Mr.
Stapylton I therefore led them next, and we soon accomplished the passage
of the light carts; after which I proceeded, leaving to Mr. Stapylton the
management of the rest, having first brought the boat-carriage within
reach of the firm ground opposite by means of blocks and tackle attached
to trees and drawn by five bullocks. On going forward with the carts I
was guided altogether by the course of the ravine or gully, keeping along
the fall of the ground and so avoiding the softer soil above. Thus we
proceeded successfully for, although another ravine came in our way, I
managed to travel round its head near which I found a place where we
crossed the small watercourse it contained by filling up the chasm with
logs. On passing this we entered the stringybark forest which I had
traversed on the day previous; and I at length recognised through the
trees the hill from which I had seen the junction of the streams. A
tremendous hailstorm met us in the face just as we descended to encamp in
the valley near the bank of the river, but this troubled us but little
while we were up to the waist in the thickest crop of grass growing on
the richest black soil I had ever seen. Mr. Stapylton and Burnett came up
in the evening with the intelligence that the whole party had effected a
safe passage across the swampy ground; but that the wheels of the
boat-carriage and some of the carts had sunk deep in the earth where I
had previously crossed on horseback followed by the light carts without
leaving any impression, and that consequently they had made but little
progress beyond the camp.
August 17.
I sent Burnett back with some spare bullocks to assist the people in
bringing on the carts and the boat-carriage, a man having been despatched
from them early to inform me that the carriage had again stuck fast.
Piper drew my attention to the sound of a distant waterfall which he said
he had heard all night and wished now to go down the river to look at. I
directed him to do so and to examine the river also still further if he
could, that he might bring back information as to how the boats might get
down the stream. On his return in the afternoon he stated that the river
was joined just below by several large streams from the left, and by one
still larger from the right which, falling on rocks, made the noise he
had heard during the night; also that on climbing a high tree he had seen
the river very large "like the Murray," adding that it was excellent for
boats. All this news only made me the more impatient to embark in them
while they were still afar on the muddy hills.
THE WHOLE EQUIPMENT REACHES THE RIVER.
The whole day passed without any tidings of their approach, and another
night had closed over us before I heard the distant calls of the
bullock-drivers; but I had the satisfaction soon after of seeing the
whole party and equipment again united on the banks of this promising
stream. The barometer was rising, the spring advancing, and the
approaching warmth might be expected to harden the ground. The cattle
would be refreshed by a week's rest in the midst of the rich pasture
around us, while our labours to all appearance were on the eve of being
crowned by the discovery of some harbour which might serve as a port to
one of the finest regions upon earth. At all events if we could no longer
travel on land, we had at length arrived with two boats within reach of
the sea, and this alone was a pleasing reflection after the delays we had
lately experienced.
THE BOATS LAUNCHED ON THE GLENELG.
August 18.
An uncommonly fine morning succeeded a clear frosty night. The boats were
hoisted out to be launched once on the bosom of the newly discovered
Glenelg; and they were loaded with what the party going with them might
require for ten days. I left with Mr. Stapylton instructions that the men
under his charge should move up to and occupy the round point of the
hill, a position which I named Fort O'Hare in memory of a truly brave
soldier, my commanding officer who fell at Badajoz in leading the forlorn
hope of the Light Division to the storm.
MR. STAPYLTON LEFT WITH A DEPOT AT FORT O'HARE.
At twelve o'clock I embarked on the river with sixteen men in two boats,
leaving eight with Mr. Stapylton in the depot.
CHARACTER OF THE RIVER.
We met with many dead trees for the first mile or two, but none of these
either prevented or delayed our passage; and the river then widened into
fine reaches wholly clear of timber, so that the passage further down was
quite uninterrupted. The scenery on the banks was pleasing and various:
at some points picturesque limestone cliffs overhung the river, and
cascades flowed out of caverns hung with stalactites; at others the
shores were festooned with green dripping shrubs and creepers, or
terminated in a smooth grassy bank sloping to the water's edge. But none
of the banks consisted of water-worn earth; they were in general low and
grassy, bounding the alluvial flats that lay between the higher points of
land. Within the first three or four miles from Fort O'Hare two
tributaries joined the main stream from the right or westward, and one
from the left or eastward: one of the former ending in a noisy cascade at
the junction. The river soon opened to a uniform width of sixty yards,
its waters being everywhere smooth and unruffled and the current scarcely
perceptible.
Ornithorynchus paradoxus.
Ducks were always to be seen in the reaches before us, and very
frequently the Ornithorynchus paradoxus, an animal which had not, I
believe, been hitherto seen so near the sea. After rowing about sixteen
miles we landed on the left bank near a cascade falling from under a
limestone cliff and there we encamped for the night. The sun was setting
in a cloudless sky while I eagerly ascended the highest cliffs in hopes
of obtaining a sight of the coast, but nothing was visible beyond a
gently undulating woody country, some swamps alone appearing in it to the
westward. The land about the cliffs of limestone was tolerably good and
grassy, but towards the end of this day's pull forests of the stringybark
sort of eucalyptus, having in them trees of large dimensions, closed on
the river. We endeavoured but in vain to catch fish, and whether the
waters contained the cod-perch (Gristes peelii) or not remained a
question. Our position and our prospects were now extremely interesting
and throughout the night I was impatient for the light of the next day.
COURSE OF THE RIVER.
August 19.
I arose at three in order to determine the latitude more exactly by the
altitude of various stars then approaching the meridian. These were Aries
and Menkar; while the two feet of the Centaur, both fine circumpolar
stars, were so steadily reflected in the placid stream that I obtained by
that means the altitude of both BELOW THE POLE. It was most essential to
the accuracy of my survey of the river that I should determine the
latitude as frequently and exactly as possible. The sun afterwards rose
in a cloudless sky and I ascertained the breadth of the river by means of
a micrometer telescope to be exactly 70 yards. We continued our
interesting voyage and found the river of very uniform width and that its
depth increased.
The current was slower but still perceptible although we found the water
had ebbed six inches during the night an indication that it was already
influenced by the tide although it tasted perfectly fresh. At a place
where I observed the sun's meridian altitude I found the breadth on
measurement to be 71 yards and the depth on sounding, 4 1/2, 3 1/2 and 3
fathoms. The direction of the course had there however changed. To the
camp of last night it had been remarkably straight towards
south-south-east although full of turnings being what may be termed
straight serpentine,* and I had accordingly expected to find the estuary
at Portland Bay in which case it was likely to be sheltered sufficiently
by Cape Nelson to form a harbour. Now however the general course was
nearly west and it preserved the same general direction without much
winding during the progress we made throughout the day. I had therefore
every reason to suppose that it would thus terminate in the wide bay
between Cape Northumberland and Cape Bridgewater. The scenery on the long
reaches was in many places very fine from the picturesque character of
the limestone-rock and the tints and outline of the trees, shrubs, and
creepers upon the banks. In some places stalactitic grottoes covered with
red and yellow creepers overhung or enclosed cascades; at other points
casuarinae and banksia were festooned with creeping vines whose hues of
warm green or brown were relieved by the grey cliffs of more remote
reaches as they successively opened before us.
(*Footnote. See Colonel Jackson's paper also referred to above.)
BLACK SWANS.
Black swans being numerous, we shot several; and found some eggs which we
thought a luxury among the bulrushes at the water's edge. But we had
left, as it seemed, all the good grassy land behind us; for the
stringybark and a species of Xanthorrhoea (grass-tree) grew to the
water's edge both where the soil looked black and rich and where it
possessed that red colour which distinguishes the best soil in the
vicinity of limestone rock. One or two small tributaries joined the river
the principal one coming from the left bank at that point or angle where
the great change takes place in its course. When the sun was near setting
we put ashore on this bank and from a tree on the highest part of the
country behind it we now once again saw Mount Gambier bearing 57 degrees
West of North.
WATER BRACKISH.
Here the water was slightly brackish but still very good for use; the
saltness being most perceptible when the water was used for tea. The
river had increased considerably both in width and depth; for here the
measured breadth was 101 yards and the mean depth five fathoms. (See
section on general Map.) It was upon the whole considering the permanent
fulness of its stream the character of its banks and uniformity of width
and depth the finest body of fresh water I had seen in Australia; and our
hopes were that day sanguine that we should find an outlet to the sea of
proportionate magnitude.
August 20.
This morning I found there was a rise of six inches in the river,
evidently the effect of tide as the water was brackish although still fit
for use. The reach on which we embarked afforded us a view for a mile
further down the river; the vista being truly picturesque and with the
interest attached to the scene it looked indeed quite enchanting. We
pulled on through the silent waters, awakening the slumbering echoes with
many a shot at the numerous swans or ducks. At length another change took
place in the general course of the river which from west turned to
east-south-east. The height of the banks appeared to diminish rapidly and
a very numerous flock of the small sea-swallow or tern indicated our
vicinity to the sea. The slow-flying pelican also with its huge bill
pursued, regardless of strangers its straight-forward course over the
waters.
ISLE OF BAGS.
A small bushy island next came in sight having on it some rocks
resembling what we should have thought a great treasure then, a pile of
flour-bags and we named it accordingly the Isle of Bags.
ARRIVAL AT THE SEACOAST.
Soon after passing the island a few low, sandy-looking hills appeared
before us; and we found ourselves between two basins where in the water
was very shallow although we had sounded just previously to entering one
of them in four fathoms. The widest lay directly before us but having no
outlet we steered into the other on the right and on rounding a low rocky
point we saw the green rolling breakers of the sea through an opening
which proved to be the mouth of the river. It consisted of two low rocky
points and as soon as we had pulled outside of them we landed on the
eastern one. In the two basins we had seen there was scarcely sufficient
water to float the boats and thus our hopes of finding a port at the
mouth of this fine river were at once at an end. The sea broke on a sandy
beach outside and on ascending one of the sandhills near it I perceived
Cape Northumberland; the rocks outside called the Carpenters bearing 7
degrees 20 minutes South of West (variation 3 degrees 30 minutes) and
being distant, as I judged, about fifteen miles. Mount Gambier bore 23
degrees 40 minutes North of West and a height which seemed near the
extreme point of the coast on the eastward and which I therefore took for
Cape Bridge water bore 52 degrees East of South.
DISCOVERY BAY.
These points seemed distant from each other about forty miles; the line
of coast between forming one grand curve or bay which received this river
at the deepest part and which I now named Discovery Bay.
MOUTH OF THE GLENELG.
There was no reef of rocks upon the bar; a circumstance to be regretted
in this case for it was obvious that the entrance to this fine river and
the two basins was choked merely by the sand thrown up by the sea. The
river was four fathoms deep, the water being nearly fresh enough for use
within sight of the shore. Unfortunately perhaps for navigation there is
but little tide on that coast; the greatest rise in the lower part of the
river (judging by the floating weeds) did not exceed a foot. I was too
intent on the completion of my survey to indulge much in contemplating
the welcome sight of old ocean; but when a plank was picked up by the men
on that desolate shore and we found the initials IWB and the year 1832
carved on wood which had probably grown in old England the sea really
seemed like home to us. Although it was low water a boat might easily
have been got out and it is probable that in certain states of the tide
and sand small craft might get in; but I nevertheless consider the mouth
of this river quite unavailable as a harbour.
WATERHOLES DUG IN THE BEACH.
Near the beach were holes dug apparently by the natives in which we found
the water perfectly sweet. The hills sheltering the most eastern of the
two basins were well wooded as were also those behind. The line of
sandhills on the beach seemed to rise into forest hills at about five
miles further eastward and all those in the west to within a short
distance of the coast were equally woody. The day was squally with rain;
nevertheless during an interval of sunshine I obtained the sun's meridian
altitude making the latitude 38 degrees 2 minutes 58 seconds South. I
also completed by two P.M. my survey of the mouth of the river and
adjacent country; and we then again embarked to return a few miles up the
river and encamp where wood and water were at hand. On reentering the
river from the sea I presented the men with a bottle of whisky with which
it was formally named the Glenelg after the present Secretary of State
for the Colonies according to my previous intention.
REMARKABLE HOLLOW.
August 21.
We had encamped in a rather remarkable hollow on the right bank at the
extreme western bend of the river. There was no modern indication that
water either lodged in or ran through that ravine although the channel
resembled in width the bed of some considerable tributary; the rock
presenting a section of cliffs on each side and the bottom being broad
but consisting of black earth only in which grew trees of eucalyptus. I
found on following it some way up that it led to a low tract of country
which I regretted much I could not then examine further. I found shells
embedded in limestone varying considerably in its hardness being
sometimes very friable and the surface in some places presenting
innumerable fragments of corallines, with pectens, spatangi, echini,
ostrea and foraminifera.
LIMESTONE CAVERN.
In the opposite bank of the river I found several thin strata of compact
chert containing probably fragments of corallines, not only on the
surface but embedded in the limestone. In pulling up the river this
morning we observed a cavern or opening in the side of the limestone rock
and having ascended to it by means of a rope we entered with lights. It
proved to be only a large fissure and after penetrating about 150 yards
underground we met with red earth, apparently fallen from the surface. We
found at the mouth of the fissure some fine specimens of shells, coral,
and other marine productions, embedded in several thin strata of a
coarser structure under one of very compact limestone upwards of 20 feet
thick.*
(*Footnote. In the fragments brought home Mr. George Sowerby found a
nucula, very much resembling some species of South America although not
like any from Australia. Portions of lucinae, echinus, spatangi, and
turritella or melania, were comprised in specimens from a softer stratum
which was the lowest.)
ONE FISH CAUGHT IN THE GLENELG.
While the people in the boat awaited us there a fish was taken by
Muirhead who had also caught the first fish in the river Darling. That of
the Glenelg was a saltwater fish known at Sydney by the name of Snapper.*
(*Footnote. This was the only fish caught in the Glenelg notwithstanding
the men threw in their lines whenever we encamped on its banks. The
weather was too cold for it was evident the river did contain fish from
the trellised work which the natives had set across it in the upper
parts.)
STORMY WEATHER.
The weather was more moderate today although still showery; and the
scenery as we proceeded upwards was very picturesque and full of variety.
At sunset we encamped about a mile and a half short of our camp of the
18th and just as the trees were groaning under a heavy squall which
obliged us to land on the first spot where sufficient room was left in
the thick woods for our tents. This spot happened to be on a steep bit of
bank; and in the evening I was called in haste to a new danger. The wind
had suddenly changed and blew with great fury filling my tent with sparks
from a large fire which burnt before it. I had placed in it according to
usual custom our stock of ammunition in a keg; and notwithstanding these
precautions its preservation now between the two elements of fire and
water was rather doubtful. We contrived however to avert the danger and
were no more disturbed during the night except by the storm.
RETURN TO THE DEPOT.
August 22.
The squally weather continued until noon when sunbeams again adorned the
river-scenery. We met with no impediment in the current until within
about six miles of the depot camp when dead trees in the channel began
again to appear; but we passed them all without hindrance and reached
Fort O'Hare at two o'clock where we found all well. Mr. Stapylton had set
Vulcan to repair the broken chains etc., a ford had been cleared across
the stream from the north-east which I named the Crawford; and the cattle
being refreshed we were once more in trim to continue the land journey.
The height of the water in the river had undergone no change during our
absence and was probably about its usual level there although I observed
abundant marks of flood in the branches of trees where dry floated matter
remained at the height of fifteen feet above the water as it stood then.
The rock about this position consisted of limestone apparently similar to
that seen on its banks higher up. (See August 15.) It possessed a
stalactitic aspect by the infiltration of calcareous matter and in
crevices below I found a reddish stalagmite containing grains of sand.
Large petrified oyster shells lay loosely about the bank above these
cliffs. No natives had approached the depot during our absence and we had
indeed reason to believe that the adjacent country contained but few
inhabitants.
DIFFERENCE IN LONGITUDE.
During the afternoon I laid down my survey of the estuary of the Glenelg
and completed by 10 P.M., not only my plan of it but that of the river
also. I found a considerable difference between the result of my survey
and the Admiralty charts not only in the longitude but also in the
relative position of the two capes with respect to Mount Gambier a
solitary hill easily recognised.*
(*Footnote. At that time I supposed the difference had arisen from some
error or omission in my map and took much pains to discover it; but not
having succeeded my work having also closed to a mile and three-quarters
on my return to the country connected by trigonometrical survey with
Sydney I have been obliged to represent these parts of the coast
according to this land survey.)