Exploring through a fog.
Lakes.
Circular Lake of Boga.
Clear grassy hills.
Natives on the lake.
Scarcity of fuel on the bank of a deep river.
Different character of two rivers.
Unfortunate result of Piper's interview with the natives of the lake.
Discovery of the Jerboa in Australia.
Different habits of the savage and civilized.
A range visible in the south.
Peculiarities in the surface of the country near the river.
Water of the lakes brackish, or salt.
Natives fly at our approach.
Arrival in the dark, on the bank of a watercourse.
Dead saplings of ten years growth in the ponds.
Discovery of Mount Hope.
Enter a much better country.
Limestone.
Curious character of an original surface.
Native weirs for fish.
Their nets for catching ducks.
Remarkable character of the lakes.
Mr. Stapylton's excursion in search of the main stream.
My ride to Mount Hope.
White Anguillaria.
View from Mount Hope.
Return of Mr. Stapylton.
SWAN HILL.
June 21.
Among the reeds on the point of ground between the two rivers was a
shallow lagoon where swans and other wild fowl so abounded that, although
half a mile from our camp, their noise disturbed us through the night. I
therefore named this somewhat remarkable and isolated feature Swan Hill,
a point which may probably be found to mark the junction of two fine
streams.
EXPLORING THROUGH A FOG.
I wished to devote the day to meteorological observations as prearranged
with my friends in the Colony, Mr. Dunlop and Captain King; but a thick
fog in the morning promised a day of clear settled weather, and I was
obliged to proceed; I observed the barometer however every hour during
the journey. For several miles we travelled through the mist over plains
partly covered with reeds and partly with grass. Having reconnoitred the
country on the previous evening I had no difficulty in pursuing the
direction I then chose for this day's route.
LAKES. CIRCULAR LAKE OF BOGA.
At eleven A.M. when the fog arose I perceived a low grassy ridge before
us; and a fine lake covered with black swans, ducks and other waterfowl
was afterwards discovered beyond it. We passed along the southern shore
of this lake, thus keeping it between us and the river. It was surrounded
with reeds and bulrushes, and appeared to be supplied by a small feeder
from the river, like other similar lakes which we had seen near rivers
elsewhere: but the water could pass by such small channels only during
the highest floods, for the lake was even then very low, although the
flood in the river was evidently high. This lake was about three miles in
circumference.
CLEAR GRASSY HILLS.
As I ascended a grassy hill two miles beyond it I perceived on my left
another smaller lake; with no reeds about it, but with grass growing to
the water's edge; and there we also found a curious little plant covered
with short imbricated silvery leaves, but not in flower. Behind the lake,
or away from the river, was the low scrub of the back country in which I
again saw, just coming into flower, the Cassia heteroloba discovered on
the 6th instant. On reaching the top of the hill I discovered to the
eastward a third lake, much larger than either of the others, and
apparently of a different character for its banks were higher, and it
contained one or two small islets while the surface of the water was
covered with some brown aquatic weed. It was bounded on the east by a
ridge which seemed green, smooth, and quite clear of trees. A low neck of
firm ground separated the lake first seen from this; and it was also
connected with the hill on which I then stood.
NATIVES ON THE LAKE.
In one place, a narrow line of high reeds appearing likely to impede us,
Mr. Stapylton rode forward to examine it. As he reached the spot much
smoke suddenly arose, evidently from natives whom he had thus
accidentally disturbed. He nevertheless pressed forward amongst the
reeds, and soon reappeared on the green hill beyond, thus showing us
there was no obstruction, and the carts proceeded through. These reeds
enveloped a small creek or hollow through which the floods of the river
supplied the lake. In one part was a pool of water, and in another the
bottom was so soft that the united strength of two teams was necessary to
draw out the wheel of a cart which sunk into it. We found there the huts
of natives who had fled on Mr. Stapylton's approach, having left their
fishing spears, skin cloaks, shields, etc. They soon appeared on the lake
in twenty-four canoes, all making for the little isle in the centre
which, being covered with reeds, was probably their stronghold according
to their modes of warfare. The aquatic tribes, as I have elsewhere
observed, invariably take to the water in times of alarm, and from among
the reeds in their little island these people could easily throw their
spears at any assailant without being themselves exposed, or even seen.
Piper found in their huts some fragments of blue earthenware, nicely
attached with gum to threads by which it would appear that the gins wore
them in their hair as ornaments.
SCARCITY OF FUEL ON THE BANK OF A DEEP RIVER.
Being desirous to learn the native names of these lakes, and to obtain
some information respecting the rivers, I requested Piper and the two
Tommies to remain behind for the purpose of obtaining a parley if
possible. I should indeed have encamped by this lake had not the environs
been entirely destitute of wood. Before us however, although at the
distance of some miles, was a line of majestic trees which appeared to
mark the course of a river; and I had directed Mr. Stapylton to lead the
party through the reeds along an interval which appeared to be chiefly
covered with grass, and by which I expected he would arrive at the line
of high trees. Meanwhile I was occupied alone to the southward of the
lake, surveying it. Near the margin I found a small fragment of highly
vesicular lava.
DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER.
The ground traversed by the party was firm and, when I overtook it within
a mile and a half of the line of trees, we came suddenly on a river full
to the very margin, and flowing slowly to the westward, its width being
about 50 yards. Not a tree grew near it, nor did I see any indication of
a river until I reached the bank.
The ground presented an unbroken level, or declined slightly towards the
line of trees which still marked, as I supposed, the course of the
Murray. We had no means of reaching it however, nor any alternative left
but to change our route towards the east-south-east and travel along the
bank of this river, in hopes it might at last approach the trees. We
found on the contrary that it receded from them towards a country without
a single bush; and thus while the sun was setting on a raw frosty evening
we could not encamp for want of fuel, although water and grass were
abundant. One solitary group of trees seeming to be on our side of the
stream, though distant about two miles, Mr. Stapylton and myself galloped
towards them, the party following. There too we found the river,
separating us even from these trees, three very small ones only being on
our side, and likely to fall when cut into the stream. It had become
quite dark before we got to them but, by lighting some reeds, the rest of
the party found its way to us; and there we encamped, although the green
wood could not be made to burn, while the thermometer stood so low as 29
degrees. We were perhaps more sensible of the want of fuel from the
abundance so apparent on the banks of what seemed another river at so
small a distance across the open plain.
DIFFERENT CHARACTER OF TWO RIVERS.
These streams flowing so near each other seemed in this respect
distinctly different: the one being edged with only reeds, the other with
lofty trees like almost every interior river of New South Wales.
UNFORTUNATE RESULT OF PIPER'S INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES OF THE LAKE.
Piper came in soon after the carts arrived, bringing a sad account of his
interview with the natives. It appeared that, as soon as our party had
proceeded to some distance from the lake, twelve men sprang from among
the reeds armed with spears, boomerangs, etc., and when Piper accosted
one of them, inquiring the name of the lake "I wont tell you," was the
answer (murry coolah, i.e. very angrily). They then told him there was
"too much ask" about him, and they blamed him for bringing the
whitefellows there; adding that they did not like him; and an old man
calling to the rest to kill him, for that he was no good, two spears were
immediately thrown. These Piper parried with his carabine, and then
instantly discharged it at the foremost, wounding him in the right jaw.
The rest immediately disappeared among the reeds. The wounded savage
fell, but Piper loaded again and killed him by another shot through the
body. Such was Piper's story. I blamed him very much for firing at the
wounded man, and I regretted exceedingly the result of his interview. I
was besides most anxious to maintain a good understanding with these
people.
The spears used on this occasion were made of reed and pointed with bones
of the emu; but we saw at their huts several heavy jagged ones of very
hard wood for the purposes of fishing. The natives wore cloaks made of
kangaroo skins.
DISCOVERY OF THE JERBOA IN AUSTRALIA.
A very curious and rare little quadruped was this day found by the two
Tommies, who had never before seen such an animal. Its fore and hind legs
resembled in proportion those of the kangaroo; and it used the latter by
leaping on its hindquarters in the same manner as that animal. It was not
much larger than a common fieldmouse, but the tail was longer in
proportion to the rest of the body even than that of a kangaroo, and
terminated in a hairy brush about two inches long.* (Plate 29.)
(*Footnote. This appears to be a species of Jerboa, thus for the first
time seen by us in Australia. My friend Mr. Ogilby has described this
animal in the Linnean Transactions from my drawing and descriptions; the
specimen itself having been deposited in the Australian Museum at Sydney.
Dipus mitchellii, D. plantis subpentadactylis; corpore supra
cinereo-fusco, subtus albido; auriculis magnis, cauda longissima,
floccosa. Linnean Transactions volume page 129.)
We also discovered a beautiful new species of the Cape genus Pelargonium,
which would be an acquisition to our gardens. I named it P. rodneyanum*
in honour of Mrs. Riddell at Sydney, grand-daughter of the famous Rodney.
(*Footnote. P. rodneyanum, Lindley manuscripts; patentim pilosum, caule
subterraneo horizontali crasso fragili ramos erectos promente apice
tantum epigaeos foliosos, ramulis herbaceis erectis, foliis
ovato-oblongis sublobatis basi cuneatis obtusis grosse crenatis tenuibus
glabriusculis longipetiolatis, pedunculis erectis foliis longioribus,
umbellis tomentosis 8-10-floris demum laxis divaricatis, petalis anguste
obovatis calyce triplo longioribus, staminum tubo obliquo: sterilium 3
denticuliformibus, fortilium 2 sterilibus interjectis caeteris
longioribus.)
DIFFERENT HABITS OF THE SAVAGE AND CIVILIZED.
At this camp where we lay shivering for want of fire, the different
habits of the aborigines and us, strangers from the north, were strongly
contrasted. On that freezing night the natives, according to their usual
custom, stripped off all their clothes previous to lying down to sleep in
the open air, their bodies being doubled up around a few burning reeds.
We could not understand how they could lay thus naked when the earth was
white with hoar frost; and they were equally at a loss to know how we
could sleep in our tents without a bit of fire to keep our bodies warm.
For the support of animal heat, fire and smoke are almost as necessary to
them as clothes are to us. The naked savage however is not without some
reason on his side, for fire is the only means he possesses to warm his
body when cold, and it is therefore the only comfort he ever knows;
whereas we require both fire and clothing and have no conception of the
intensity of enjoyment imparted to the naked body of a savage by the
glowing embrace of a cloud of smoke in winter. In summer also he may
enjoy, unrestrained by dress, the luxury of a bath in any pool when not
content with the refreshing breeze that fans his sensitive body during
the intense heat. Amidst all this exposure the skin of the Australian
native remains as smooth and soft as velvet, and it is not improbable
that the obstructions of drapery would constitute the greatest of his
objections in such a climate to the permanent adoption of a civilised
life.
A RANGE VISIBLE IN THE SOUTH.
June 22.
A night of hard frost was succeeded by a beautifully clear morning. The
refraction brought the summits of a distant range above the south-east
horizon; and the sight was so welcome to us, after having found Australia
a mere desert from the want of hills, that I was at a loss for a name to
give these that should sufficiently express my satisfaction. I found the
breadth of the river at our camp to be 50 yards; and the velocity 4
chains (or 88 yards) in 127 seconds, being something less than a mile and
a half per hour; and the height of the bank above the water to be 18
inches.
PECULIARITIES IN THE SURFACE OF THE COUNTRY NEAR THE RIVER.
The entirely open country through which the nearer river or branch
continued to flow, and the lofty and remarkable trees on the banks of the
other enabled me, in chaining along our route, to survey the course of
both by fixing points on the more distant, and tracing the nearer. At
length we approached a better-wooded country where clear green hills
appeared to our right. I ascended the highest of these and discovered a
vast plain beyond which appeared to be, or rather to have been, the bed
of an extensive lake. I was now struck with the uncommon regularity of
the curve described by the hill or ridge, having previously observed the
same peculiarity in that which overlooked the lake of the savage tribe.
We passed over some slight undulations covered with luxuriant grass, and
were not sorry to see a wood of pines (or callitris) on our left. Large
gumtrees (yarra) grew beyond and, the general course I wished to pursue
leading towards them, I hoped to reach there an angle of the river. We
found however that they hung over a small ana-branch only, in which the
muddy flood-water of the river was then flowing. This stream was
nevertheless exactly what we wanted, being safely accessible to our
cattle, which the river itself was not. We therefore pitched our tents on
a spot where there was excellent grass, and wood was again to be had in
great abundance. We found in the adjacent scrub a remarkably rigid bush
with stiff sickle-shaped blunt leaves and mealy balls of flowers not
quite expanded;* also an acacia resembling A. hispidula, but the leaves
were quite smooth and much smaller.** In approaching this spot we had
passed along a low sandy ridge, every way resembling a beach but covered
with pines and scrub. A bare grassy hill extended southward from each end
of it; and the intervening hollow containing some water was evidently the
bed of a lake, nearly dry.
(*Footnote. It is found to be an acacia related to A. multinervia. A.
farinosa, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis angulatis glabriusculis,
phyllodiis rigidis carnosis incurvis linearibus apice latioribus
mucronatis multinerviis glabris: margine superiore infra medium
glanduloso, capitulis 2-4 axillaribus breviter pedunculatis farinosis.)
(**Footnote. For description see 19th September.)
June 23.
The most eastern of these smooth bare ridges was immediately above our
camp and, observing in it the regularity of curve which I had noticed in
others, I was struck with the analogy, and in these ridges being always
on the eastern shore of hollows or lakes, while the western was
irregularly indented, and was in some parts so abrupt as to have the
character of cliffs. The southern end of the ridges was generally the
highest.
WATER OF THE LAKES BRACKISH, OR SALT.
Perceiving no reeds near the lake nor any birds upon it I sent Mr.
Stapylton to taste the water, which he found to be quite salt, like that
of the sea. This and several of the other basins were surrounded by high
ground and were without any communication with the river.
NATIVES FLY AT OUR APPROACH.
I passed soon after another of these circular basins which, although much
smaller, presented similar features, and had some rather brackish water
in pools in the deepest part. During the day's journey we passed several
ridges connected with extensive basins in a similar manner, and in the
bottom of one of these I perceived Polygonum junceum growing amongst
yarra trees. On the western shore we saw the remains of large native
ash-hills. They were old and overgrown with bushes, but they proved that
this lake had once contained mussels and the balyan or bulrush, a root
eaten by the natives and cooked in such ovens as these. The other lake
was surrounded by a circle of yarra trees and had but recently become
dry, the earth in it being still without vegetation and covered with
innumerable native companions and white cockatoos. Finding no indication
of the river, notwithstanding the presence of so many yarra trees, I
turned to the east towards another line of them which appeared still more
promising. There however we encountered the dry bed only of a small creek
which we crossed, and continued eastward, passing over much grassy land,
and through much wood of the box or goborro species of eucalyptus. We
travelled thus upwards of seven miles beyond the dry creek without
discovering any sign of the river, although we had previously traced it
so far in pursuing a much more southerly direction.
NATIVES FLY AT OUR APPROACH.
The natives were heard in this wood chopping with their stone hatchets
but they fled at our approach. On entering a small plain we saw their
deserted fire on the opposite side. Beyond this another plain, still more
extensive, appeared before us, and a few yarra trees on the horizon gave
some promise of water, though not of the river.
ARRIVAL IN THE DARK, ON THE BANK OF A WATERCOURSE.
Before I reached the spot and while far ahead of the party darkness had
overtaken us; but I found there a deep creek with some water in large
ponds; and by lighting a fire the carts at length came up to us, after a
journey of nineteen miles. This seemed by moonlight such a singular place
that I was anxious for daylight to see at what we had arrived.
June 24.
I expected to find the main stream not far from the ponds, but the
morning light shone over a plain which extended in a north-western
direction to the very horizon. It was bounded on the north by very
distant trees which had not the usual appearance of trees distinguishing
the river. The country on all sides seemed perfectly level, and if there
was any exception at all it was in the box forests to the southward
whence we had come, and where the land seemed lower than the plain on
which we had encamped. The bed of the creek was full twenty feet below
the general surface. The symmetry of the curves described by it was
remarkable, and it was rendered still more striking by a narrow line of
rushes which had grown on the margin of the water when it had stood at a
much higher level.
DEAD SAPLINGS OF TEN YEARS GROWTH IN THE PONDS.
A concentric border of grass of uniform breadth grew on the slope above
the rushes, and one of fragrant herbs below the line of rushes, all being
at nearly equal distances; while a single row of bare poles measuring
from three to five inches in diameter stood where a row of saplings had
grown in what had, at one time, been the very centre of the stream. These
poles were the remains of yarra trees eight or ten years old, and marked
the extent doubtless of a long period of drought which had continued
until some high flood killed them.
DISCOVERY OF MOUNT HOPE.
The grass was excellent over the whole of the plains on both sides and,
from a tree near the camp, Burnett descried a goodly hill bearing 36 1/2
degrees East of South and distant, as afterwards ascertained, twenty-two
miles.
Near our camp we found some recent fireplaces of the natives, from which
they must have hastily escaped on our approach for, in the branches of a
tree, they had left their net bags containing the stalks of a vegetable
that had apparently undergone some culinary process, which gave them the
appearance of having been half boiled. Vegetables are thus cooked, I was
told, by placing the root or plant between layers of hot embers until it
is heated and softened. The stalks found in the bag resembled those of
the potato, and they could only be chewed, such food being neither
nutritious nor palatable for it tasted only of smoke.* A very large
ash-hill, raised no doubt by repeated use in such simple culinary
operations, and probably during the course of a great many years, was
close to our camp. On its ample surface were just visible the vestiges of
a very ancient grave, once encompassed by exactly the same kind of ridges
that I had observed around the inhabited tomb near the junction of the
Lachlan and Murrumbidgee. The natives were at length seen about two miles
off on the skirts of the wood; and although I sent forward the overseer
and Piper, each carrying a large green bough, they all ran away, leaving
behind them their spears and skin cloaks.
(*Footnote. July 17 1838. This plant has at length flowered in the
Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick and proves to be a new species of
Pieris of which Dr. Lindley has favoured me with the following
description: P. barbarorum; sparse hispida, foliis ciliatis supra nitidis
scabriusculis radicalibus spathulato-lanceolatis subdentatis caulinis
oblongis sessilibus amplexi-caulibus recurvis dentatis integrisque, caule
stricto ramoso, involucri foliolis lineari-lanceolatis acutis apice vel
secus dorsum serie simplici pilorum longorum reflexorum appendiculatis,
achaeniis badiis longe rostratis transverse rugosissimis disci
sterilibus.)
While the party proceeded eastward along the bank of Moonlight creek, as
we named it, I sent Mr. Stapylton across the wide plain to ascertain, if
possible, whether the river flowed through it without the usual
indication of trees on its banks, as we had found to be the case below.
Mr. Stapylton found beyond the northern limits of the plain, amongst
yarra trees, an ana-branch only, but containing quite clear and still
water.
The course of the creek which I in the meantime traced first led me to
the north-east where high trees seemed to mark its course, to the bed of
the river; but a smaller branch, still dry, extended southward from it,
which, on returning to the main party, I found it desirable that the
carts should cross. We next passed for three miles through a forest of
goborro, and then crossed a plain three miles in extent. Beyond the plain
we approached a promising line of lofty yarra trees, but found it shaded
only a hollow subject to inundations. Two miles and a half further we
came to another similar line of trees, and we found within its shade an
ana-branch full of clear water. A little in advance a much deeper branch
afforded a good spot for our camp, as I intended to cross it by some
means in the afternoon and seek for the river.
ENTER A MUCH BETTER COUNTRY.
The plains we had crossed this day were covered with excellent grass; and
in many places detached groups of trees gave to the country a park-like
appearance very unlike anything on the banks of the Darling.
After crossing the creek by means of a fallen tree, I found the ground
beyond to be of the richest description, with excellent grass and lofty
yarra trees growing upon it. I passed through two separate strips of high
reeds extending north-east and south-west; but I found they only
enveloped lagoons of soft mud and, seeing no appearance of the river at
two miles from the camp, I returned. We found on the hills a little bush,
very like European heaths, having the branches covered with small
three-cornered leaves and tipped with clusters of small pink flowers.*
(*Footnote. Baeckea micrantha.)
LIMESTONE.
June 25.
The country we passed over this day was upon the whole richer in point of
grass than any we had seen since we left Sydney; I therefore suspected
that the soil had some better rock for a basis than sandstone; and I had
reason to believe that it was limestone, from indications of subsidence
which I observed on the surface.
CURIOUS CHARACTER OF AN ORIGINAL SURFACE.
We had discovered no similar country during either of the two former
journeys. There were none of the acacia trees we had seen on the lower
Bogan; while the grasses were also different from any of those on the
Darling. A fine new species of Daviesia, very like a Grevillea and
forming a most singular bush, grew here. It had no leaves, but green
branches formed into short, broad, thick vertical plates arranged
spirally, and much lower than the little axillary clusters of flowers
which were just beginning to open.* We also met with bushes of the rare
Trymalium majoranaefolium, a hoary bush with clusters of small grey
flowers, enclosed when young in a bright, large membranous involucre.
Once or twice distant rows of lofty gumtrees appeared to indicate the
line of the river; but on approaching them we found either dry hollows or
the same ana-branch, as it seemed, on which we last encamped. I observed
at several places that the more dense box-forests near this branch of the
river were skirted with ground broken into low undulations six or eight
feet square. These appeared where there was great depth of soil, and were
probably caused by deep rents or cracks opened at the first induration of
the deposit, and subsequently modified by rain and other atmospheric
agents. This seems to be the state of the deep deposits at the present
day where, from the absence of trees, the surface of tenacious soils
remains visible. I was first struck with this effect in the clays near
the Darling where alternate saturation and desiccation seemed to check
all vegetation. On the upper parts of the Bogan also I saw these
inequalities on a very large scale, but there the hollows still exist
under dense forests of casuarinae, and are so deep and extensive that I
for some time was induced to examine them in hopes of finding water; but
from a small hole or fissure still remaining there I soon learnt that any
such search was hopeless.
(*Footnote. D. pectinata, Lindley manuscripts; glabra, aphylla, ramis
lateralibus ensiformibus crassis rigidis spinosis verticalibus pectinatim
spiralibus dorso decurrentibus racemulis glomeratis multo longioribus.)
When we had travelled some miles, the hill we had seen from the camp on
Moonlight creek bore exactly south by compass, and appeared to be about
half the distance that it was from us when discovered. At 3 1/2 miles we
again came upon the ana-branch; a slight current now appeared in it and
the water was tinged with the turbid colour of the main stream.
LAST CAMP ON THE MURRAY.
After winding around several of its turnings we encamped at one P.M.
beside a large pool. This day's journey was nearly fourteen miles.
June 26.
The barometer being unusually low, and some long journeys having
prevented me from laying down my surveys of the lakes as well as having
fatigued the cattle, I halted here with the intention of filling up my
maps, refreshing the animals, and reconnoitring the country to the
south-west, in which direction a vast extent was unexplored. The river we
had endeavoured to trace thus far was now so shut in by ana-branches that
it could rarely be seen at all; but I had now brought the survey of it so
far upwards that I should be able to trace it, or its several
tributaries, downwards upon the same point when returning to the
northward, under the western extremities of the Snowy Range. I hoped then
also to obtain a better knowledge of the branches composing the Murray
than we possessed at this time.
This day I requested Mr. Stapylton to cross the piece of water where we
had encamped, and endeavour to find the river in a north-east direction;
but he ascertained that the watercourse turned northward, and to the west
of north, without entering the river, as far as he traced it. He then
returned after having followed its course five miles without falling in
with the main stream. His party saw some of the natives who could not be
induced to stop by all the calls of Piper.
NATIVE WEIRS FOR FISH.
Mr. Stapylton observed in the channel he traced a net or fence of boughs
which the natives had that morning set up; and which showed not only that
they expected a flood, but also, from the manner in which it was placed,
that the water would flow first up the channel. This circumstance, as
already observed, is not unusual in ana-branches where the lower end is
naturally on a lower level, having been worn by the currents into a
deeper channel there than at the upper end, where the water not
unfrequently leaves the river by overflowing its banks in various
channels of small depth.
THEIR NETS FOR CATCHING DUCKS.
The natives had left in one place a net suspended across the river
between two lofty trees, evidently for the purpose of catching ducks and
other waterfowl. The meshes were about two inches wide, and the net hung
down to within five feet of the surface of the stream. In order to obtain
waterfowl with this net some of the natives proceed up, and others down,
the river to scare the birds from other places and, when any flight comes
into the net, it is suddenly lowered into the water, thus entangling the
birds beneath until the natives go into the water and secure them. Among
the first specimens of art manufactured by the primitive inhabitants of
these wilds none come so near our own as the net which, even in quality,
as well as the mode of knotting, can scarcely be distinguished from those
made in Europe. As these natives possess but little besides what was
essentially necessary to their existence, we may conclude that they have
used spears for killing the kangaroo, stone-axes for cutting out the
opossum, and nets for catching birds, or kangaroos, or fish, since their
earliest occupation of Australia.* Almost every specimen of art they
possess is the result of urgent necessity. Perhaps the iron tomahawk is
the only important addition made to their implements during many
centuries.
(*Footnote. Isaiah 24:17 Fear, and the pit, and the snare are upon thee.]
"These images are taken from the different methods of hunting and taking
wild beasts which were anciently in use. The snare or toils were a series
of nets enclosing, at first, a great space of ground in which the wild
beasts were known to be, and drawn in by degrees into a narrower compass
till they were at last closely shut up and entangled in them." Harmer.
This is precisely the method adopted by the Australian natives at present
for the same or similar purposes.)
REMARKABLE CHARACTER OF THE LAKES.
On laying down my survey of the country which we had lately passed over I
found that the lakes were nearly all circular or oval, and that a very
regularly curved ridge, as before stated, bounded the eastern shore of
all of them. The number of lakes or hollows of this character already
seen by us to the south-west of the Murray amounted to eleven. In three
of them the water was salt, and the greater number had no communication
with the river; but between it and the others there was a narrow creek or
gully, but accessible only to the highest floods. The northern margin of
one of the salt lakes consisted of a bank of white sand on which grew
thickly a kind of pine, different from the trees around. The channels
between the river and the lakes seemed neither to belong to the original
arrangement of watercourses, nor to ana-branches of the rivers; for they
frequently extended upwards in directions opposed to that of the river's
course. The fact being established that some of these lakes have no
obvious connection with the river, it becomes probable that they are the
remains of what the surface was before the fluviatile process began to
carry off its waters. I had no difficulty in referring to an early system
of this kind other lakes which we had seen elsewhere, the anomalous
peculiarities of which were equally remarkable. Among these were
Cudjallagong and others adjacent; Waljeers; the two smaller on the
Murrumbidgee named Weromba; also Lake Benanee and Prooa its neighbour; in
all which the peculiarities accorded with what I had observed in those on
the left bank of the Murray.
MR. STAPYLTON'S EXCURSION IN SEARCH OF THE MAIN STREAM.
June 27.
The morning was clear and Mr. Stapylton set out with a party of six men
to trace, if possible, the branch on which we were encamped into the main
stream. At ten the weather became hazy; at noon the sky was overcast; and
at two P.M. a steady rain set in which continued until six P.M. when the
barometer began to rise and, the moon soon after shining out, the sky
became once more serene. A hill apparently covered with good grass was
within sight of our present camp but inaccessible from it because a reach
of deep and still water intervened. This day I sent Burnett with Piper to
the hill, and they brought me some of the soil which I found consisted of
loose red sand.
MY RIDE TO MOUNT HOPE.
June 28.
The morning being fine I at length proceeded towards the hill which we
had already twice seen from great distances. It bore 206 degrees 45
minutes (from North) and was exactly ten miles from our camp. After
riding six miles through box-forest we crossed a dry creek, and
immediately entered upon an extensive plain beyond which I had the
satisfaction of seeing the hopeful hill straight before me.
This hill consisted of immense blocks of common granite composed of white
felspar and quartz and black mica; and it appeared to form the western
extremity of a low range. It was indeed a welcome sight to us all after
traversing for several months so much flat country; and to me it was
particularly interesting for, from its summit, I expected to obtain an
extensive view over the unknown region between us and the southern coast.
I accordingly named the hill Mount Hope.
WHITE ANGUILLARIA.
On the verdant plain near its foot we found a beautiful white
anguillaria, a flower we had not seen elsewhere and which,
notwithstanding the season, was in full bloom and had a pleasing perfume.
It might indeed be called the Australian snowdrop for its hardy little
blossom seemed quite insensible to the frost.
VIEW FROM MOUNT HOPE.
On reaching the summit of Mount Hope I saw various higher hills extending
from south-south-west to west-south-west at a distance of about 35 miles.
They were not all quite connected, and I supposed them to be only the
northern extremities of some higher ranges still more remote. I perceived
along their base a line of lofty trees, but it was most apparent on the
horizon to the westward of the heights. The intervening country
consisted, as far as the glass enabled me to examine it, of open grassy
plains, beautifully variegated with serpentine lines of wood. In all
other directions the horizon was unbroken and, as the trees of the Murray
vanished at a point bearing 143 1/2 degrees from North on the border of a
very extensive plain, I concluded that an important change took place
there in the course of that river or the Goulburn (of Hovell and Hume);
for it was uncertain then which river we were near. The granitic range of
Mount Hope terminates in the plains, one or two bare rocks only
projecting above ground on the flats westward of the hill. On its summit
we found some plants quite new to us and, among the rocks on its sides, a
species of anguillaria different from that on the plains, being larger in
the stem and having a dark brown ring within the chalice, the edge of the
leaves being tinged with the same colour.* We found here again the
Baeckea micrantha seen on the 24th instant, also a remarkable new species
of Eriostemon forming a scrubby spiny bush, with much the appearance of a
Leptospermum,** and a new and very beautiful species of Pleurandra, with
the aspect of the yellow Cistus of the Algarves.*** A remarkable hill of
granite appeared 5 1/3 miles from Mount Hope, bearing 30 degrees 10
minutes West of South. It is a triangular pyramid and, being quite
isolated, it closely resembles the monuments of Egypt.
(*Footnote. Anguillaria dioica.)
(**Footnote. E. pungens, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis teretibus
pilosulis, foliis acerosis pungentibus glandulosis, pedicellis solitariis
axillaribus brevibus unifloris, staminibus glabriusculis, antheria
inappendiculatis.)
(***Footnote. P. incana, Lindley manuscripts; foliis linearibus obtusis
tomentosis marginibus revolutis costam tangentibus, floribus sessilibus
terminalibus, staminibus 6 ima basi monadelphis.)
Soon after my return to the camp Mr. Stapylton came in with his party,
having succeeded in finding the river by tracing the branch upwards of
thirteen miles. This branch was connected with others on both sides, so
that Mr. Stapylton was obliged at last to cross it, and make direct for
the river which, at the point where he fell in with it, was running at
the rate of 2940 yards per hour, and was 99 yards wide, being therefore
probably still the Murray itself.
RETURN OF MR. STAPYLTON.
The country which I had seen this day beyond Mount Hope was too inviting
to be left behind us unexplored; and I therefore determined to turn into
it without further delay, and to pursue the bearing of 215 degrees from
North as the general direction of our route, until we should fall in with
the line of river trees before mentioned.