Return along the bank of the Murray.
Mount Lookout.
Appearance of rain.
Chance of being cut off from the depot by the river floods.
A savage man at home.
Tributaries of the Murray.
A storm in the night.
Traverse the land of lagoons before the floods come down.
Traces of many naked feet along our old track.
Camp of 400 natives.
Narrow escape from the floods of the river.
Piper overtakes two youths fishing in Lake Benanee.
Description of the lake.
Great rise in the waters of the Murray.
Security of the depot.
Surrounded by inundations.
Cross to it in a bark canoe made by Tommy Came-last.
Search for the junction of the Murrumbidgee and Murray.
Mr. Stapylton reaches the junction of the rivers.
Reception by the natives of the left bank.
Passage of the Murray.
Heavy rains set in.
Row up the Murray to the junction of the Murrumbidgee.
Commence the journey upwards, along the left bank.
Strange animal.
Picturesque scenery on the river.
Kangaroos numerous.
Country improves as we ascend the river.
A region of reeds.
The water inaccessible from soft and muddy banks.
Habits of our native guides.
Natives very shy.
Piper speaks to natives on the river.
Good land on the Murray.
Wood and water scarce.
Junction of two branches.
Swan Hill.
RETURN ALONG THE BANK OF THE MURRAY.
Returning from the junction towards our last camp on the Murray we again
crossed, when within a mile of that position, the dry channel we had seen
on proceeding towards the north-west. It contained some deep lagoons on
which were pelicans, but we crossed it where the bed was quite dry and
where it presented, like many other parts occasionally under water,
striking proofs of the uncertainty of seasons in these parts of
Australia. Numerous dead saplings of eight or ten years growth stood
there, having evidently flourished in that situation until the water
again filled this channel, after so long an interval of drought, and
killed them.
On reaching the firm ground beyond we came upon some old graves which had
been disturbed, as the bones protruded from the earth. Piper said that
the dead were sometimes dug up and eaten; but this I could not believe.
MOUNT LOOKOUT.
By three P.M. we again occupied the remarkable point where we had
formerly encamped. It is at this point (Mount Lookout on the map) that
the berg of the Murray terminates on the basin of the Darling and thus
commands, as before observed, an extensive view over the woody country to
the westward. It would be an important position in any kind of warfare,
and during my operations I felt as strong upon it with my party as if we
had been in a citadel. I had now, I hoped, again got between the junction
tribes and our old enemies, though the latter were still between us and
our depot; and thus any danger of the junction tribes uniting with those
up the Murray was less to be apprehended. Piper however discovered the
track of a considerable number who had proceeded up the river the day
before. Indeed all the tracks of natives he found led upwards and, seeing
no longer any of them there, we felt more anxious about the safety of the
depot.
APPEARANCE OF RAIN. CHANCE OF BEING CUT OFF FROM THE DEPOT BY THE RIVER
FLOODS.
The barometer had been falling gradually from the 1st instant, and this
was another source of anxiety to me; for we were in no small danger of
being separated from the other party by any such rise of the river as
might be expected after a heavy fall of rain.
June 4.
Notwithstanding the unpromising state of the mercurial column the night
had been fair, and in the morning the sky was clear. We lost no time in
moving on and we continued until we were four miles beyond our former
camp; and then crossing Golgol creek we occupied a clear point of land
between it and the Murray.
A SAVAGE MAN AT HOME.
As I was reconnoitring the ground for a camp I observed a native on the
opposite bank and, not being seen by him, I watched awhile the habits of
a savage man at home. His hands were ready to seize any living thing; his
step, light and noiseless as that of a shadow, gave no intimation of his
approach; and his walk suggested the idea of the prowling of a beast of
prey. Every little track or impression left on the earth by the lower
animals caught his keen eye, but the trees overhead chiefly engaged his
attention; for deep in the heart of some of the upper branches he
probably hoped to find the opossum on which he was to dine. The wind blew
cold and keenly through the lofty trees on the river margin, yet that
broad brawny savage was entirely naked. Had I been unarmed I had much
rather have met a lion than that sinewy biped; but situated as I was,
with a broad river flowing between us while I overlooked him from a high
bank, I ventured to disturb his meditations with a loud halloo: he stood
still, looked at me for about a minute, and then retired with that easy
bounding step which may be termed a running walk, and exhibits an
unrestrained facility of movement, apparently incompatible with dress of
any kind. It is in bounding lighting at such a pace that, with the
additional aid of the woomerah, an aboriginal native can throw his spear
with sufficient force and dexterity to kill the emu or kangaroo, even
when at their speed. One or two families of natives afterwards appeared
hutted on the riverbank nearly opposite to our camp, and Piper opened a
conversation with them across the river. These people had heard nothing
of what had befallen the Benanee tribe. They had some years before seen
white men go down and return up the river in a large canoe; and Piper
also learnt from them that the Millewa (Murray) had now a flood in it,
having for some time previous been much lower than it was then; but they
assured Piper, apparently with exultation, that it flowed always.
TRIBUTARIES OF THE MURRAY.
The name of the creek we had just crossed was Golgol, and it came from
the low range of the same name which I had observed on May 29. From what
these natives said of Bengallo creek I thought it might be that branch of
the Lachlan, already mentioned as Boororan, flowing westward under
Warranary and other hills between the Murrumbidgee and the Darling.
A STORM IN THE NIGHT.
June 5.
Rain had fallen during the night but the day was favourable though
cloudy. I ventured on a straight line through the sand and bushes of
Eucalyptus dumosa in order to cut off some miles of our beaten track,
which was nearer the river and rather circuitous. We crossed some
sandhills, the loose surface of which was bound down only by the prickly
grass already described. From these hills the view was extensive and
bounded on all sides by a perfectly level horizon. On one of them a
solitary tree drew my attention and, on examining it, I discovered with
much satisfaction that it was of that singular kind I had only once or
twice seen last year in the country behind the Darling. The leaves, bark,
and wood tasted strongly of horse-radish. We now obtained specimens of
its flower and seed, both of which seemed very singular.* By the more
direct route through the scrub this day, with what we gained yesterday,
we were enabled to reach, at the usual hour for encamping, the red cliffs
near the spot where we formerly met the second division of the Darling
tribe. I took up a position on the western extremity of the broken bank,
overlooking an angle of the river, and commanding a grassy flat where our
cattle would be also secure. The weather became very boisterous after
sunset, and our tents were so much exposed to the fury of the wind that
at one time I thought they would be blown into the river. The waters
continuing to rise, the Murray now poured along nearly on a level with
its banks, and how we should cross or avoid:
The mosses, waters, slaps, and stiles
that lay between us and the depot, if the river rose much longer, was a
question for which I was prepared. On the other hand the very cold and
boisterous weather was in our favour as being opposed to any assembling
of the tribes at points of difficulty along the line of our track, as
they certainly ought to have done as good tacticians, for they never lost
sight of our movements while we were in that country.
(*Footnote. A new and genuine species of Gyrostemon. Gyrostemon pungens,
Lindley manuscripts; foliis rhomboideis acutis glaucis in petiolum
angustatis. The capsules are arranged in a single verticillus and
consequently this species will belong to Gyrostemon as distinguished from
Codonocarpus by Mr. Endlicher.)
TRAVERSE THE LAND OF LAGOONS BEFORE THE FLOODS COME DOWN.
June 6.
It had rained heavily during the night but the morning was clear. As we
continued our journey the natives were heard in the woods although none
appeared. Fortunately for our progress the floods had not reached the
lagoons, and we succeeded in passing the whole of this low tract, so
subject to inundations, without difficulty; and we finally encamped
within four miles of the ground where we had been obliged to disperse the
Darling tribes. We pitched our tents on the eastern side of the lagoon
where we found an agreeable shelter from the storm in some scrub which,
on former occasions, we should not have thought so comfortable a
neighbour. We could now enter such thickets with greater safety; and in
this we found a very beautiful new shrubby species of cassia, with thin
papery pods and numbers of the most brilliant yellow blossoms. On many of
the branches the leaflets had fallen off and left nothing but the flat
leafy petioles to represent them. The pods were of various sizes and
forms, on which account, if new, I would name it C. heteroloba.*
(*Footnote. C. heteroloba, Lindley manuscripts; foliolis bijugis
linearibus carnosis cito deciduis apice mucronulatis recurvis, glandula
parva conica inter omnia, petiolo compresso herbaceo nunc aphyllo
mucronulato, racemis paucifloris folio brevioribus, leguminibus oblongis
planis obtusis papyraceis continuis aut varie strangulatis.)
June 7.
The ground had been so heavy for travelling during some days that the
cattle much needed rest; and as I contemplated the passage, in one day of
that dumosa scrub, occupying twenty miles along the tract before us, I
made this journey a short one, moving only to our old encampment of May
26. The scrub here seemed more than usually rich in botanical novelties
for, besides the Murrayana tree, we found a most beautiful Leucopogon
allied to L. rotundifolius of Brown, with small heart-shaped leaves
polished on the upper side and striated on the lower, so as to resemble
the most delicate shell-work.* Piper discovered, on examining the ground
where we had repulsed the Darling tribes, that they had left many of
their spears, nets, etc. on our side of the river, and had afterwards
returned for them, also that a considerable number did not swim across,
but had retired along the riverbank. Upon the whole it was estimated that
the numbers then in our rear amounted to at least one hundred and eighty.
(*Footnote. L. cordifolius, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis pubescentibus,
foliis sessilibus subrotundis planis patentibus cordatis mucronatis
margine scabris supra laevigatis subtus striatis, floribus solitariis
sessilibus axillaribus.)
TRACES OF MANY NAKED FEET ALONG OUR OLD TRACK.
June 8.
As soon as daylight appeared this morning we commenced our long journey
through the scrub; and we discovered to our surprise, by the traces of
innumerable feet along our track, that the natives had not, as I till
then supposed, come along the riverbank, but had actually followed us
through that scrub. They have nevertheless a great dislike to such parts,
not only because they cannot find any game there, but because the prickly
spinifex-looking grass is intolerable against their naked legs. While we
were encamped in the scrub on May 25 they must have also passed that
stormy night there, without either fire or water. On our way through it
now we discovered a new hoary species of Trichinium, very different from
Brown's Tr. incanum.* The cattle, though they were jaded, accomplished
the journey before sunset, and we halted beside the large lagoon adjacent
to that part of the river which was within three miles of our former
camp, being the spot where the natives, in following us from lake
Benanee, first emerged from the woods. The weather being still
boisterous, we occupied a piece of low ground where we were sheltered
from the west or stormy quarter by the river berg.
(*Footnote. Tr. lanatum, Lindley manuscripts; incano-tomentosum, caule
corymboso, foliis obovatis cuneatisque, capitulis hemisphericis lanatis,
bracteis dorso villosis.)
CAMP OF 400 NATIVES.
On the brow of this height and just behind our camp I counted the remains
of one hundred and thirty-five fires at an old encampment of natives and,
as one fire is seldom lighted for less than three persons, there must
have been at least four hundred. The bushes placed around each fire
seemed to have been intended for that temporary kind of shelter required
for only one night.
June 9.
We proceeded this morning as silently as possible, for we were now
approaching the haunts of the enemy, and I wished to come upon them by
surprise, thinking that I might thereby sooner ascertain whether any
misfortune had befallen the depot.
NARROW ESCAPE FROM THE FLOODS OF THE RIVER.
Two creeks lay in our way and, from the flood then in the Murray, it was
likely that they might be full of water, and the savages prepared to take
advantage of the difficulty we should then experience in crossing them.
The first channel we arrived at, which was quite dry when we formerly
crossed, was now brimful of the muddy water of the Murray and before we
reached its banks we heard the voices of natives on our right. We forded
it however without annoyance, the water reaching only to the axles of the
carts, but the current was very strong and FROM the river, that is to
say, upwards. We next reached our old camp where we had passed that
anxious night near Benanee. Here to my great satisfaction and indeed
surprise, I found the bed of the larger creek, which occasioned us so
great a detour when we first met the natives, still quite dry at our old
crossing-place; being in the same state in which it was then, although
the flood water was now fast approaching it. We got over however with
ease and at length again traversed the plain which skirts the lake; and
we were glad to find that tranquillity prevailed along its extensive
shores.
PIPER OVERTAKES TWO YOUTHS FISHING IN LAKE BENANEE.
I perceived only one or two natives fishing, and I took Piper down to the
beach to speak to them, being desirous also to examine at leisure this
fine sheet of water. We found on arriving there that other natives had
run off from some huts on the shore, but Piper pursued those in the lake,
for the purpose of obtaining information about the tribe, until they ran
so far out into the water that they seemed at length up to their ears,
and I was really afraid that the poor fellows, who were found to be only
boys, would be drowned in endeavouring to avoid him. I could scarcely
distinguish them at length from the numerous waterfowl floating around.
In vain I called to their pursuer to come back, Piper was not to be
baffled by boys, and continued to walk through the water like a giant,
brandishing a short spear, or, as the boys would probably say to their
tribe;
Black he stood as night,
Fierce as ten furies, terrible as hell,
And shook a dreadful dart.
At length, when apparently near the centre of the lake, he overtook one;
and while leading him towards the shore he ascertained that the Darling
tribe had returned to the lake only on the day before, having been ever
since their dispersion on the 27th May until this time, on the opposite
bank of the Murray. That they were then fishing in a lagoon near the
river (where in fact we afterwards saw smoke and heard their voices) and
that they had despatched three messengers to a portion of the tribe on
the upper Darling, with the news of what had befallen them, of our
progress in that direction, and requesting them to join them as soon as
possible at the lake.
DESCRIPTION OF THE LAKE.
I perceived that the depth of water in this basin did not then in any
part exceed 8 or 10 feet, although the surface was probably 20 feet below
the level of the sandy beach, thus making 28 or 30 feet the extreme depth
when full. Now that I could examine it at leisure, I found that this fine
lake was much more extensive than I had at first supposed. The breadth
was about four miles, and I could see along it in a westerly direction at
least six miles. Part of the north-western shore seemed to be clear of
trees but well covered with grass, and to slope gently towards the water.
The whole was surrounded by a beach consisting of fine clean quartzose
sand. This was an admirable station for a numerous body like that from
the Darling. The cunning old men of that tribe seemed well aware that
there they could neither be surrounded nor surprised; the approach to the
lake from the river being also covered in both directions by deep creeks,
passable only at certain places. Their choice of such a position was
creditable to their skill in strategy, and consistent with their thorough
knowledge of localities. I could spare no time to look at the country
beyond this lake (or northward) as I wished to do. From what we learnt
however we were satisfied that the depot was safe, and this fact relieved
me from much anxiety. We had still to cross that creek or ana-branch
which apparently supplies the lake, although it was then still dry. I had
observed that such ana-branches* were deepest at the lower mouths, as if
the river floods entered first there and flowed upwards; although before
the river reached its maximum a strong current would probably set
downwards in the same channel, which would thus become at last a branch
of the main stream.
RETURN TO THE DEPOT.
We reached our former camp on the Murray by 3 P.M., and once more pitched
our tents on the bank of this river. By comparing its height, as measured
formerly, with as much of it as remained above the waters, I found that
it had risen eight feet and a half. We were then within a short day's
journey of the depot but anxious enough still to know if it were safe.
June 10.
We started early and, by crossing a small plain, cut off half a mile of
our former route. When within a few miles of the camp of Mr. Stapylton we
heard a shot, and soon discovered that it was fired by one of the men
(Webb) rather a mauvais sujet, who had been transgressing rules by firing
at a duck. We learnt from him however the agreeable news that the depot
had not been disturbed.
GREAT RISE IN THE WATERS OF THE MURRAY.
It was now cut off from us by a deep stream which filled the creek it
overlooked and which flowed with a considerable current towards the
Murray, having also filled Lake Stapylton to the brim.
SECURITY OF THE DEPOT.
Mr. Stapylton and his party were well; and during the whole time that we
had been absent the natives had never approached his camp. Such singular
good fortune was more than I could reasonably have expected, and my
satisfaction was complete when I again met Stapylton and saw the party
once more united. The little native Ballandella's leg was fast uniting,
the mother having been unremitting in her care of the child. Good grass
had also been found so that the cattle had become quite fresh and indeed
looked well.
SURROUNDED BY INUNDATIONS. CROSS TO IT IN A BARK CANOE MADE BY TOMMY
CAME-LAST.
I was ferried over Stapylton's creek in a bark canoe by Tommy Came-last
who also, by the same simple means, soon conveyed every article of
equipment and the rest of the party across to the depot camp.
We had now got through the most unpromising part of our task. We had
penetrated the Australian Hesperides, although the golden fruit was still
to be sought. We had accomplished so much however, with only half the
party, that nothing seemed impossible with the whole; and to trace the
Murray upwards and explore the unknown regions beyond it was a charming
undertaking when we had at length bid adieu forever to the dreary banks
of the Darling.
SEARCH FOR THE JUNCTION OF THE MURRUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY.
The first object of research was the actual junction of the Murrumbidgee
with the Murray. I knew that the creek on which I had fixed the depot
camp came from the former and entered the latter; and that our depot thus
stood on a tract surrounded by water, being between the creek and the
main stream. We were already in fact on a branch-island, immediately
adjacent to the junction we were in search of and, as I intended to
across the Murray either at or below that point, I determined to make an
excursion in search of it next morning.
June 11.
Riding southward I reached a bend of the river about two miles from our
camp. While tracing the stream upwards from that point we saw some
natives running away from their fires. One of them however held up a
green branch in each hand and, though as he ran he answered Piper, and a
gin had left a heavy bag near us, yet he could not be prevailed on to
stop. When Piper took the bag to the tribe he was obliged to follow them
nearly a mile, when a number at length stood still together, but at a
considerable distance from us, and kept incessantly calling for
tomahawks. From the number of huts along the riverbank it was obvious
that the inhabitants were numerous, and I was therefore the more
surprised that our depot could have continued so long near them without
their discovering it. After following the river upwards of eight miles
without meeting with the Murrumbidgee I came to a place where it seemed
to have formerly had a different channel, and to have left a basin where
the banks of the stream were of easy access, the breadth being only 110
yards. This spot was so favourable for effecting a passage that I
determined on moving the party to it at once; and to entrust to Mr.
Stapylton the further search for the junction of the Murrumbidgee, which
could not be far from it.
MR. STAPYLTON REACHES THE JUNCTION OF THE RIVERS.
June 12.
While I conducted the party to the point at which I intended to cross Mr.
Stapylton returned along our old route to where we first traversed the
now flooded creek and, by tracing it downward to the Murrumbidgee, and
that river to the Murray, he ascertained the junction to be little more
than a mile from the encampment which I had taken up with the intention
of crossing the Murray. Meanwhile no time had been lost there in pitching
the boats and sinking them in the adjacent basin of still water that the
planks might swell and unite.
June 13.
I crossed early in the morning and found the opposite bank very
favourable for the cattle to get out; this being a object of much
importance.
RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES OF THE LEFT BANK.
I was met as favourably by the natives on this first passage of the
Murray as I had been on our first approach to the Murrumbidgee. A small
tribe came forward and laid a number of newly-made nets at my feet. I
declined accepting anything however save a beautifully wrought bag,
telling the owner through Piper that when the party should have passed to
that side I would give him a tomahawk in return for it.
PASSAGE OF THE MURRAY.
As soon as the day had become rather warm we endeavoured to swim the
bullocks across by driving them into the water at the mouth of the basin
where the river seemed most accessible. But the bank was soft and muddy,
and the animals, when driven into the water, got upon an island in a
shallow part, whence they could not be dislodged, much less compelled to
swim from it to the opposite shore. Not a little time was thus lost,
while only a few could be drawn over by ropes attached to the boats; and
by which process one was accidentally drowned. This was owing to the
injudicious conduct of one of the men (Webb) who gave the animal rope
instead of holding its head close aboard, so as to keep the mouth at
least above water. The drivers then represented that the rest of the
bullocks had been too long in the water to be able to cross before the
next day but, having first tried their plan, I now determined to try my
own; and I directed them to take the cattle to the steepest portion of
the bank, overhanging the narrow part of the river, and just opposite to
the few bullocks which had already gained the opposite shore.
Notwithstanding the weakness of the animals this measure succeeded for,
on driving them down the steep bank so that they fell into the water, the
whole at once turned their heads to the opposite shore and reached it in
safety. We next swam the horses over by dragging each separately at the
stern of a boat, taking care to hold the head above water. Thus by sunset
everything except one or two carts and the boat-carriage had been safely
got across.
The natives beyond the Murray were differently-behaved people from those
of the Darling for, although one group sat beside that portion of our
party which was still on the right bank, another, at a point of the
opposite shore to the eastward of our new camp, and a third near my tent
in the neck of a peninsula on which I found we had landed, not one of
them caused us any anxiety or trouble. It was to the last party that I
owed the tomahawk, and I went up with it as they sat at their fires. They
were in number about twenty and unaccompanied by any gins. The man who
had given me the bag seemed to express gratitude for the tomahawk by
offering me another net, also one which he wore on his head; and he
presented to me his son. He saw the two native boys who then accompanied
me as interpreters dressed well and apparently happy, and I had no doubt
the poor man was willing to place his own son under my care. I
endeavoured to explain that we had no more tomahawks, that we had given
none to any other tribe upon the Murray, and that our men were apt to be
very saucy with their guns if too much troubled. Experience had taught me
the necessity for thus perpetually impressing on the minds, even of the
most civil of these savages that, although inoffensive, we were strong;
an idea not easily conceived by them. They however came forward and sat
down near us until very heavy rain, which fell in the night, obliged them
to seek their huts.
HEAVY RAINS SET IN.
June 14.
The morning dawned under the most steady fall of rain that I had seen
during the journey; and this happened just after new moon, a time when I
had hoped for a favourable change in the weather. Everything was got
across the river this day, and we were prepared for the survey of a new
region. I was occupied with the maps of the country which we had just
left sufficiently to be regardless of the rain, even if it had continued
to fall many days; and very thankful was I that we had got thus far
without having been impeded by the weather.
June 15.
The rain ceased in the morning and the barometer had risen so much that
no more was to be apprehended then; yet the blacksmith had still some
work to do to the boat-carriage, and we were therefore obliged to halt
another day.
ROW UP THE MURRAY TO THE JUNCTION OF THE MURRUMBIDGEE.
In the afternoon I proceeded in one of the boats up the river to the
junction of the Murrumbidgee; and I ascertained that there was a fresh in
that river also. It was certainly narrower at the mouth than at Weyeba;
and here indeed some fallen trees almost crossed the stream. There was a
hollow or break in the bank of the Murray, about 100 yards lower down,
which seemed to have been once an outlet of the Murrumbidgee. The opening
formed a deep section through a stratum of ferruginous sandstone, and was
fully equal to the present breadth of the tributary river. On pulling
higher up, the Murray seemed rather smaller above this junction, although
still a splendid stream. The natives on this side told Piper that the
Darling tribe from the other had danced a corrobory with them about six
weeks before, and promised to return in one moon. They also inquired
whether Piper had seen any of that tribe as they were waiting for us
whitefellows, to which Piper answered that he had NOT. I blamed him for
this reply, and asked why he did not say that we had been obliged to fire
upon and kill some of them: but he said he could not tell them that,
because they would hate him so.
COMMENCE THE JOURNEY UPWARDS, ALONG THE LEFT BANK.
June 16.
We left our encampment and commenced our travels up the left bank of the
Murray over ground which seemed much better than any we had seen on the
right bank. We crossed grassy plains bounded by sandhills on which grew
pines (callitris); and open forests of goborro (or box-tree) prevailed
very generally nearer the river. Where this tree grew we found the ground
still good for travelling upon, notwithstanding the heavy rain, in
consequence apparently of the argillaceous character of the soil; for in
the plains of red earth, which before the last fall of rain we had found
the best, the horses now sank above their fetlocks and the carts could
scarcely be dragged along. In the course of the day we passed several
broad lagoons in channels which probably were ana-branches of the river
in high floods. On the largest plain crossed by the party four emus
appeared, and one of them was killed after a fine chase by the dogs. The
river appeared to come from the east-south-east but the course was very
tortuous, and we encamped at a reach where it seemed to come from the
south.
STRANGE ANIMAL.
The most remarkable incident of this days' journey was the discovery of
an animal of which I had seen only the head among the remains found in
the caves at Wellington Valley. This animal was of the size of a young
wild rabbit and of nearly the same colour, but had a broad head
terminating in a long very slender snout, like the narrow neck of a wide
bottle; and it had no tail. The forefeet were singularly formed,
resembling those of a hog; and the marsupial opening was downwards, and
not upwards as in the kangaroo and others of that class of animals. This
quadruped was discovered on the ground by our native guides, but when
pursued it took refuge in a hollow tree from which they extracted it
alive, all of them declaring that they had never before seen an animal of
that kind.*
(*Footnote. The original has been deposited in the Sydney Museum but,
having shown my friend Mr. Ogilby a drawing of it, he has noticed the
discovery in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society for 1838
describing the animal as "belonging to a new genus closely allied to
Perameles, but differing in the form of the forefeet, which have only two
middle toes resembling those of a hog, and in the total absence of tail.
This genus has been named by Mr. Ogilby Chaeropus ecaudatus.)
June 17.
The cattle were not brought up until ten o'clock, an unusual
circumstance, and one which curtailed the day's journey. The course of
the river compelled us to travel southward, and even to the westward of
south; but we found better ground by keeping on the open forest-land of
box or goborro, which in general occupied a very extensive space between
the river and the bergs of soft red sandhills on which grew the
callitris.
SALSOLAE ON THE PLAINS.
The plains covered with salsolae which, as I have just remarked, before
the rain, were considered to afford the best surface for travelling on,
had now become so soft as to be almost impassable, at least by our
wheels, and I this day avoided them as much as I could. The margin where
the box or goborro grew was in many parts hollowed into lagoons or
ana-branches of the river, so that it was desirable to shape our line of
route as closely by the base of these bergs or sandhills as possible.
PICTURESQUE SCENERY ON THE RIVER.
On crossing the point of one of them we came upon a most romantic-looking
scene where a flood branch had left a serpentine piece of water,
enclosing two wooded islands of rather picturesque character, the whole
being overhung by the steep and bushy slope of the hill. The scenery of
some lakes thus formed was very fine, especially when their rich verdure
and lofty trees were contrasted with the scrub which covered the
sandhills nearest the river, where a variety of shrubs such as we had not
previously seen formed a curious foreground. Amongst them was a creeper
with very large pods, two of which were brought to me last year, while on
the Darling, by one of the men, who could not afterwards find the tree
again, or say what it was like. We also found one Eucarya murrayana with
young unripe fruit. (See Plate 28 which represents the general character
of the scenery on the Murray.)
KANGAROOS NUMEROUS.
The country abounded with kangaroos. On ascending some grassy ridges I
perceived a verdant plain which extended as far as I could see to the
westward. It was bounded on the south, not by scrub, but by a forest of
large trees; and the horizon beyond presented something like an outline
of hills, a refreshing sight, accustomed as we had been for several
months to a horizon as level as that of the ocean. After travelling about
three miles we were obliged to turn westward by a creek or ana-branch of
the river, having on its banks large yarra trees resembling those in the
main stream. It prevented us from approaching the Murray during the rest
of the day, and we finally encamped on its margin having found there most
excellent grass.
June 18.
Continuing along the firm ground between the bergs and this creek we
pursued a course which for some miles bore to the westward of south. We
passed through forests of the box or goborro, under which grew a
luxuriant crop of grass and two of these flats (on which we saw yarra
trees also) stretched away to the westward, breaking the elsewhere
unvaried wilderness of sandhills and scrub. On crossing one of these
forest flats we heard the sound of the natives' hatchet on some hollow
trees before us; and Piper as usual hastened forward to communicate with
them, but in vain for, as soon as they saw him, they ran like kangaroos,
leaving the fortunate opossum which they had been seeking still alive in
his hole in the tree. At length we got clear of the creek on reaching a
bend of the river not far beyond the spot where we had seen the natives.
COUNTRY IMPROVES AS WE ASCEND THE RIVER.
The Murray was flowing rapidly in a narrower channel and within two or
three feet of the top of the banks. The country appeared on the whole
superior to any that we had seen on the other side of this river. The
grassy flats backed by hills covered with callitris seemed very eligible
for cattle runs, the chief objection to them being only that the banks of
the river were so steep and yielding that the water was in general
inaccessible. The breadth seldom exceeded 60 or 70 yards; and I suspected
that we might be already above the junction of some stream on the right
bank, especially as the course came now so much from the southward.
A REGION OF REEDS.
On crossing the extremity of a sandhill, about two miles from the spot
where we afterwards encamped, I perceived that reeds covered a vast
region before us. They grew everywhere, even under the trees, and
extended back from the channel of the river as far as I could see and, no
alternative presenting itself, we endeavoured to face them. The lofty
ash-hills of the natives, used chiefly for roasting the balyan (or
bulrush) a root found only in such places, again appeared in great
numbers. We soon came upon a lagoon about a mile in circumference and
surrounded on all sides by high reeds. One or two smooth grassy hills
arose among them, but the ground, even where they grew, was as firm and
good for travelling upon as any that we had recently crossed. They were
no impediment to a man or bullock in motion, but grew to the height of
about seven or eight feet.
THE WATER INACCESSIBLE FROM SOFT AND MUDDY BANKS.
Grass was also to be found among them and I was willing to encamp there;
but the difficulty was in finding a spot where the cattle could approach
the water. The flood ran high in the deep and rapid river; yet the margin
was covered with high reeds and, although I ultimately encamped near a
small lagoon within the reeds, the cattle would not venture to drink at
it, instinctively shrinking back from the muddy margin. In the course of
the evening one animal fell into the river and was extricated with great
difficulty and after much digging in the bank. One remarkable difference
between this river and the Murrumbidgee was that, in the latter, even
where reeds most prevailed, a certain space near the bank remained
tolerably clear: whereas on this river the reeds grew most thickly and
closely on its immediate banks, thus presenting a much less imposing
appearance than the Murrumbidgee, with its firmer banks crowned with
lofty forests of yarra. Each Australian river seems to have some peculiar
character, sustained with remarkable uniformity throughout the whole
course.
HABITS OF OUR NATIVE GUIDES.
June 19.
Piper, although so far from his country, could still point directly to
it, but he had grown so homesick that he begged Burnett not to mention
Bathurst. To return except with us was quite out of the question, and as
we still receded he dragged, as the phrase is, a lengthening chain. He
studied my visage however and could read my thoughts too well to doubt
that I too hoped to return. The whole management of the chase now
devolved on him and the two boys, his humble servants; and this native
party usually explored the woods with our dogs for several miles in front
of the column. The females kept nearer the party, and often gave us
notice of obstacles in time to enable me to avoid them. My question on
such occasions was Dago nyollong yannagary? (Which way shall we go? ) to
which one would reply, pointing in the proper direction, Yalyai
nyollong-yannar! (Go that way.) Depending chiefly on the survey for my
longitude, my attention was for the most part confined to the
preservation of certain bearings in our course by frequent observations
of the pocket compass; but in conducting carts where no roads existed,
propitiating savage natives, taking bearings and angles, observing rocks,
soil and productions, so much care and anxious attention was necessary
that I believe I was indebted to the sympathy even of my aboriginal
friends for the zealous aid they at all times afforded.
Notwithstanding the obvious necessity for closely watching the cattle,
they had been suffered to ramble nine miles up the river during the
night; and were not brought back to the camp until noon. This unusual and
untoward circumstance was the more surprising as the whole country along
the riverbank was covered with good grass. Whether they had instinctively
set off towards the upper country, where most of them were bred; or that
want of water after a hard day's work had occasioned such restlessness,
it was difficult to say; but they wandered even beyond the camp that we
reached this day in a journey commenced however only at half-past 12.
NATIVES VERY SHY.
The natives peeped over the reeds at us from a considerable distance; and
some of those whom Piper saw when in search of the men with the cattle,
immediately jumped into the river, carrying their spears and boomerangs
with them. We had not proceeded above a mile and a half when I perceived
among the reeds close to the berg on which we were travelling a small,
deep and still branch of the river, apparently connected with numerous
others, in all of which the water was quite still, although it had the
same muddy colour as that flowing in the river, and they seemed to be
equally deep. These still channels wound in all directions among the
reeds. Further on the water was not even confined to such canals, large
spaces between them being inundated, and lofty gum (or yarra) trees stood
even in the water. Light appeared at length through the wood before us,
which soon terminated on a sea of reeds bounded only by the horizon. On
ascending some sandhills confining this basin of reeds on our side, I
observed a low grassy ridge with pines upon it, and forming a limit to
the reedy basin, except in a part of the horizon which bore 14 degrees
South of East. A broad sheet of water (probably only an inundation
occasioned by the late rain) filled the centre of the reedy space. About
six miles from our last camp we came upon the river flowing with a strong
current; and at its full width the water not more than a foot below the
level of the right bank. Thus the Murray seemed to flow through that
reedy expanse, unmarked in its course by trees or bushes, although one or
two distant clumps of yarra probably grew on the banks of the permanent
stream. At two miles further on these trees again grew plentifully, close
under the berg along which we travelled, and where I hoped again to see
the river. We found however that the yarras only enclosed shallow
lagoons; and on a small oasis of dry ground near one of them we encamped
for the night. A species of solanum forming a very large bush was found
this day in the scrub, also several interesting shrubs, and among them
some fine specimens of that rare one, the Eucarya murrayana. But in all
these scrubs on the Murray the Fusanus acuminatus is common and produces
the quandang nut (or kernel) in such abundance that it and gum acacia may
in time become articles of commerce in Australia.*
(*Footnote. Having brought home specimens of most of the woods of the
interior, I find that several of the acacias would be valuable for
ornamental work, having a pleasing perfume resembling that of a rose.
Some are of a dark colour of various shades and very compact; others
light-coloured and resembling in texture box or lancewood. The new caper
tree also resembles the latter so much as not to be distinguished from
it. Specimens of these woods may be seen at Hallet's, Number 83 High
Holborn.)
June 20.
The morning was frosty and clear. Soon after we left our encampment we
came to a ridge or berg, bare of trees with the exception of a fine clump
on the highest part; and behind it was an extensive flat which was also
destitute of wood, only a few atriplex bushes appearing upon it. I sent
the carts across this flat while I rode along the crest of the ridge. The
sea of reeds skirted this ridge on the north, and a meandro-serpentine
canal full of water intersected the reedy expanse in almost all
directions. The river flood had not reached it, at least if it had the
water continued unmoved by any current. I perceived some smoke arising
from the reeds at the distance of a mile, and at the extreme point of a
tongue of firmer ground which extended into them.
PIPER SPEAKS TO NATIVES ON THE RIVER.
Piper went boldly up to the fire and found three families of blacks in as
many canoes on the river. They told him there was a junction of rivers
some way ahead of us; and I understood him to say that part of these
natives had come across from Waljeers. The country opened more and more
as we proceeded, and the basin of reeds was more extensive. The bergs on
the opposite side (on which I had fixed several points) were distant on
an average about eight miles, which was the breadth therefore of that low
margin of reeds. The winding borders of this plain terminated on our side
in rich grassy flats, some of which extended back farther than I could
discover; and on two of these plains I perceived fine sheets of water,
surrounded by shining verdure and enclosed by sheltering hills clothed
with Callitris pyramidalis.
GOOD LAND ON THE MURRAY.
One or two spots seemed very favourable for farms or cattle stations. The
soil in these grassy flats was of the richest description: indeed the
whole of the country covered by reeds seemed capable of being converted
into good wheat land, and of being easily irrigated at any time by the
river. This stream was also navigable when we were there, and produce
might be conveyed by it at such seasons to the seashore. There was no
miasmatic savannah, nor any dense forest to be cleared; the genial
southern breeze played over these reedy flats which may one day be
converted into clover-fields. For cattle stations the land possessed
every requisite, affording excellent winter grass back among the scrubs
to which cattle usually resort at certain seasons; while at others they
could fatten on the rich grass of the plains, or during the summer heat
enjoy the reeds amid abundance of water. We found on these plains an
addition to the common grasses.* The fine open country afforded extensive
views, and to the eastward and south-east we saw hills with grassy sides
and crowned with callitris.
(*Footnote. An Andropogon allied to A. bombycinus.)
WOOD AND WATER SCARCE.
Through the intervening valley flowed the Murray, the course of which was
seldom visible as no trees grew along its border. Under such
circumstances we could not encamp upon the bank, neither could it be
safely approached by cattle; and our prospect of obtaining wood and
watering our animals was this day rather uncertain. At length we came
upon a path which Mr. Stapylton pursued amongst high reeds for a mile
without reaching the river as we both expected. I continued to travel
towards four trees on the side of a green hill, still at a great distance
but in the direction in which I wished to proceed.
JUNCTION OF TWO BRANCHES. SWAN HILL.
When we arrived there just before sunset we had the good fortune to find
close under the hill a bend of the Murray, and to discover the junction
of another river or branch with it at this point. Within the margin we
found a small pond quite accessible to the cattle, and behind the hill
was an extensive flat covered with the richest grass. Here therefore we
could encamp most contentedly beside a clear hill, always a desirable
neighbour, and an accessible river. We were also thus enabled to
determine the junction perhaps of two rivers, an important object in
geography. The latitude was 35 degrees 19 minutes 43 seconds South.
The lesser stream was about 50 yards wide, but below the junction the
main stream divided into two branches so that I was doubtful whether this
might not be only the termination of an ana-branch. From the falling off
of the bergs on the distant right bank, and the approach of a line of
lofty trees from the same quarter, I was almost convinced that some
junction took place thereabouts, as indeed the natives last seen had
informed us. During the day columns of smoke arose behind us in the
direction where we had seen these natives, and further eastward we
perceived a widespreading conflagration, doubtless caused by them
although this expression of ire troubled us but little so long as the
flames did not approach our route. The scrubs now receded from the river,
but the curious variety of acacias they contained still drew our
attention towards them. We found this day several which were new. One
with a rigid hard leaf, not in flower, resembled in many respects the A.
farinosa met with two days later, but it was perfectly smooth in all its
parts.* Another appeared to be related to A. hispidula, but with much
narrower leaves without the ragged cartilaginous margin of that
species.**
(*Footnote. A. sclerophylla, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis angulatis
glabriusculis, phyllodiis rigidis carnosis rectiusculis linearibus apice
latioribus mucronulatis multinerviis glabris eglandulosis, capitulis 1-2
sessilibus glaberrimis.)
(**Footnote. A. aspera, Lindley manuscripts; phyllodiis
oblongo-linearibus uninerviis mucronatis eglandulosis ramisque angulatis
asperrimis, capitulis 1-2 axillaribus, pedunculis villosis phyllodiis
duplo brevioribus.)