New and remarkable shrub.
Darling tribe again.
Their dispersion by the party.
Cross a tract intersected by deep lagoons.
Huts over tombs.
Another division of the Darling tribe.
Barren sands and the Eucalyptus dumosa.
Plants which grow on the sand and bind it down.
Fish caught.
Aspect of the country to the northward.
Strange natives from beyond the Murray.
They decamp during the night.
Reach the Darling and surprise a numerous tribe of natives.
Piper and his gin explain.
Search for the junction with the Murray.
Return by night.
Followed by the natives.
Horses take fright.
Break loose and run back.
Narrow escape of some men from natives.
Failure of their intended attack.
Different modes of interment.
Reduced appearance of the Darling.
Desert character of the country.
Rainy morning.
Return of the party.
Surprise the females of the tribe.
Junction of the Darling and Murray.
Effect of alternate floods there.
NEW AND REMARKABLE SHRUB.
May 27.
In the scrub adjoining our camp we found a new and remarkably beautiful
shrub bearing a fruit, the stone of which was very similar to that of the
quandang (Fusanus acuminatus) although there was no resemblance either in
the form of the tree or of the flower. This shrub was not unlike the
weeping willow in its growth, and the fruit, which grew at the
extremities of the drooping branches, had the shape of a pear and a black
ring at the broad end. The crop then on the tree was unripe, and was
probably a second one; the flower was also budding, and we hoped to see
the full blossom on our return. Only three or four of these trees were
seen, and they were all on the hill near our encampment. Here likewise
grew a new shrubby species of Xerotes, with hard rush-like leaves, but
allied to X. gracilis.*
(*Footnote. X. effusa, Lindley manuscripts; acaulis, foliis linearibus
longissimis semiteretibus margine scabris dorso striatis: apice dentato
tabescente, panicula mascula effusa abbreviata, bracteis acuminatis
scariosis pedicello brevioribus.)
DARLING TRIBE AGAIN.
We proceeded on our journey as usual, but had not gone far when we heard
the voices of a vast body of blacks following our track, shouting
prodigiously, and raising war cries. It now became necessary for me to
determine whether I was to allow the party under my charge to be
perpetually subject to be cut off in detail by waiting until these
natives had again actually attacked and slain some of my people, or
whether it was not my duty, in a war which not my party, but these
savages, had virtually commenced, to anticipate the intended blow. I was
at length convinced that, unless I could check their progress in our rear
and prevent them from following us so closely, the party would be in
danger of being compelled to fight its way back against the whole savage
population, who would be assembled at that season of drought on the banks
of the large rivers. But in order to ascertain first whether this was the
hostile tribe I sent overseer Burnett with Piper and half the party into
the scrub which skirted our line of route. We were travelling along the
berg or outer bank of the river, a feature which not only afforded the
best defensive position but also guided me in tracing the river's course.
It was also in many parts the only ground clear of timber or bushes and
therefore the best for travelling upon. I directed the men to allow the
tribes to pass along our track towards me, as I intended to halt with the
carts after crossing the low hill. Piper recognised from this scrub the
same people he had seen at Benanee.
DISPERSION OF THE DARLING TRIBE BY THE PARTY.
The natives however having immediately discovered our ambuscade by the
howling of one of their dogs, halted and poised their spears; but a man
of our party (King) inconsiderately discharging his carabine, they fled
as usual to their citadel, the river, pursued and fired upon by the party
from the scrub. The firing had no sooner commenced than I perceived from
the top of the hill which I ascended some of the blacks, who appeared to
be a very numerous tribe, swimming across the Murray. I was not then
aware what accidental provocation had brought on this attack without my
orders, but it was not the time to inquire; for the men who were with me,
as soon as they heard the shots of their comrades and saw me ascend the
hill, ran furiously down the steep bank to the river, not a man remaining
with the carts. The hill behind which these were posted was about a
quarter of a mile from the river, and was very steep on that side, while
on the intervening space or margin below lofty gum trees grew, as in
other similar situations. By the time I had also got down, the whole
party lined the riverbank, the men with Burnett being at some distance
above the spot at which I reached it. Most of the natives were then near
the other side, and getting out while others were swimming down the
stream. The sound of so much firing must have been terrible to them and
it was not without effect, if we may credit the information of Piper who
was afterwards informed that seven had been shot in crossing the river,
and among them the fellow in the cloak, who at Benanee appeared to be the
chief. Much as I regretted the necessity for firing upon these savages,
and little as the men might have been justifiable under other
circumstances for firing upon any body of men without orders, I could not
blame them much on this occasion; for the result was the permanent
deliverance of the party from imminent danger. Our men were liable in
turn to be exposed singly while attending the cattle, which often
unavoidably strayed far from the camp during the night; and former
experience had, in my mind, rendered the death of some of these men
certain. I was indeed satisfied that this collision had been brought
about in the most providential manner; for it was probable that, from my
regard for the aborigines, I might otherwise have postponed giving orders
to fire longer than might have been consistent with the safety of my men.
Such was the fate of the barbarians who, a year before, had commenced
hostilities by attacking treacherously a small body of strangers, which,
had it been sent from heaven, could not have done more to minister to
their wants than it did then, nor endured more for the sake of peace and
goodwill. The men had then been compelled to fire in their own defence
and at the risk of my displeasure. The hostility of these savages had
also prevented me from dividing my party, and obliged me to retire from
the Darling sooner than I might otherwise have done. It now appeared that
they had discovered this, judging from their present conduct, and
unappalled by the effect of firearms, to which they were no longer
strangers, they had boastingly invaded the haunts of other tribes, more
peaceably disposed than themselves, for the avowed purpose of meeting and
attacking us. They had persisted in following us with such bundles of
spears as we had never seen on other occasions, and they were on the
alert to kill any stragglers, having already, as they acknowledged,
destroyed two of our cattle.
This collision took place so suddenly that no man had thought of
remaining at the heads of the horses and cattle, as already stated; nor
was I aware of this until, on returning to them, I found the reins in the
hands of Piper's gin; a tall woman who, wrapped in a blanket, with
Piper's sword on her shoulder, and having a blind eye, opaque and white
like that of some Indian idol, presented rather a singular appearance as
she stood the only guardian of all we possessed. Her presence of mind in
assuming such a charge on such an occasion was very commendable, and
seemed characteristic of the female aborigines.
I gave to the little hill which witnessed this overthrow of our enemies
and was to us the harbinger of peace and tranquillity the name of Mount
Dispersion.
CROSS A TRACT INTERSECTED BY DEEP LAGOONS.
The day's journey was still before us. On leaving the river we soon
encountered a small creek or ana-branch* and, though I made a practice of
avoiding all such obstructions by going round rather than crossing them,
yet in the present case I was compelled to deviate from my rule on
finding that this creek would take me too far northward. Soon after, we
approached a lagoon and during the whole day, turn wherever we would, we
were met by similar bodies of water or, as I considered them, pools left
in the turnings and windings of some ana-branch formed during high floods
of the river. Nevertheless I managed to preserve a course in the desired
direction; and at length we encamped on the bank of several deep ponds
which lay in the channel of a broad watercourse. I was anxious to avoid
if possible being shut up between ana-branches and the river lest, as the
river seemed rising, I might be at length surrounded by deep water. I was
in some uncertainty here about the actual situation of the Murray and our
position was anything but good; for it was in the midst of scrubby
ground, and did not command, in any way, the place where alone grass
enough was to be found for the cattle. The bergs of the river were not to
be seen, although the river itself could not be distant; for the whole
country traversed this day was of that description which belongs to the
margin of streams, being grassy land under an open forest containing
goborro and yarra trees. These are seldom found in that region at any
considerable distance from the banks of the river, the whole interior
country being covered with Eucalyptus dumosa and patches of the pine or
Callitris pyramidalis.
(*Footnote. See above.)
May 28.
A thick fog hung over us in the morning but it did not impede our
progress. For the first three miles our way was along the banks of the
channel or lagoon beside which we had passed the night. It then crossed a
polygonum flat and several dry hollows, beyond which I at length saw the
rising ground of the river-berg and, immediately after, the river itself,
flowing by the base of a precipitous red cliff in which the scrubby flat
country we were travelling upon abruptly terminated. We had cut off a
great bend of the Murray by our intricate journey among the lagoons; and
had again reached the river precisely at the point most desirable.
HUTS OVER TOMBS.
On this upper ground we observed several tombs, all enclosed within
parterres of the same boat-like shape first seen by us on the day we
traced the Lachlan into the basin of the Murrumbidgee. Two of the tombs
here consisted of huts, very neatly and completely thatched over, the
straw or grass being bound down by a well-wrought net. Each hut had a
small entrance on the south-west side, and the grave within was covered
with dry grass or bedding on which lay however some pieces of wood. There
was a third grave with coverings of the same kind, but it was not so
neatly finished, nor was it covered with net.* There were also graves
without any covering; one where it appeared to have been burnt; and two
old-looking graves were open, empty, and about three feet deep.
(*Footnote. Isaiah 45:4. Who remain among the graves.] "The old Hebrews
are charged by the prophet Isaiah with remaining among the graves and
lodging in the monuments." See Lewis' Origines Hebraeae volume 3 page
381.)
ANOTHER DIVISION OF THE DARLING TRIBE.
We had not proceeded far through the scrub on the top of the precipice
overhanging the river when the usual alarm term "the natives" was passed
along to me from the people in the rear of our party. Piper had been told
that we should soon see the other division of the Darling tribe, which
was still ahead of us; and I concluded that these natives belonged to it
and were awaiting us at this point where, as they had foreseen, we were
sure to come upon the river. Four or five advanced up to us while the
rest followed among the bushes behind. I recognised two men whom I saw
last year on the Darling. They begged hard for axes and held out green
boughs, but I had not forgotten the treachery of their burning boughs on
our former interview and, thinking I recognised the tall man who had been
the originator of the war, I went up to him with no very kind feeling;
but I was informed he was only that man's brother. My altered manner
however was enough for their quick glance; and indeed one of the best
proofs that these natives belonged to the Darling tribe was the attention
with which they watched me when they asked for tomahawks, and their
speaking so much to Piper about Majy. Of the evil tendency of giving
these people presents I was now convinced, and fully determined not to
give more then. This resolution the natives having discovered very
acutely, their ringleaders vanished like phantoms down the steep cliffs,
and we heard no more of the rest. It is possible that this portion of the
tribe had not then received intelligence of what had befallen the others
or they would not have advanced so boldly up. Be that as it may they
followed us no more, having probably heard in the course of the day from
the division of the tribe which we had driven across the Murray.
BARREN SANDS AND THE EUCALYPTUS DUMOSA. PLANTS WHICH GROW ON THE SAND AND
BIND IT DOWN.
The river taking a turn to the southward, we again entered the dumosa
scrub but it was more open than we had seen it elsewhere. The soil
consisted of barren sand; there was no grass, but there were tufts of a
prickly bush which tortured the horses and tore to rags the men's clothes
about their ankles. I observed that this bush and the Eucalyptus dumosa
grew only where the sand seemed too barren and loose for the production
of anything else; so loose indeed was it that, but for this dwarf tree
and prickly grass, the sand must have drifted so as to overwhelm the
vegetation of adjacent districts, as in other desert regions where sand
predominates. Nature appears to have provided curiously against that evil
here by the abundant distribution of two plants so singularly adapted to
such a soil. The root of the Eucalyptus dumosa resembles that of a large
tree; but instead of a trunk only a few branches rise above the ground,
forming an open kind of bush, often so low that a man on horseback may
look over it for miles. The heavy spreading roots however of this dwarf
tree and the prickly grass together occupy the ground and seem intended
to bind down the sands of the vast interior deserts of Australia. Their
disproportioned roots also prevent the bushes from growing very close
together and, the stems being leafless except at the top, this kind of
eucalyptus is almost proof against the running fires of the bush. The
prickly grass resembles at a distance, in colour and form, an overgrown
bush of lavender; but the pedestrian and the horse both soon find that it
is neither lavender nor grass, the blades consisting of sharp spikes
which shoot out in all directions, offering real annoyance to men and
horses.
On ascending a small sandhill about three P.M. I perceived that I could
not hope to reach the river in the direction I was pursuing. Accordingly
I turned to the left and, entering a rather extensive valley which was
bounded on the south by the river-bergs at a distance of three or four
miles, we encamped on the immediate bank of the Murray shortly before
sunset. There was little grass about the river for the ferruginous
finely-grained sandstone formed still the riverbank, and was exactly
similar to the arenaceous rock on the eastern coast.
FISH CAUGHT.
The river had more the appearance of having a flood in it now than at the
time we first made it, and here we caught some good cod-perch (Gristes
peelii) one weighing seventeen pounds. As we came along the lagoons in
the morning of this day we shot a new kind of duck.
May 29.
The broad slopes of the river-berg, or second bank, were generally
distinguished by a strip of clear ground which we found the best for
travelling upon; and it afforded us also the satisfaction of overlooking
the friendly river at a greater or less distance on the left. The Murray
meandered between the opposite bergs of the valley or basin which was
here about four miles wide.
ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY TO THE NORTHWARD.
From a hill situated between the river and the scrub I this day saw, for
the first time since we left the Lachlan, a ridge on the horizon. It
appeared to the northward, the west end being distant about seven miles;
and it was long, flat, and not much higher than the surrounding country.
An extensive plain reminded us of those on the Darling and in the more
hollow part of it I perceived the dry bed of a lake, bordered by some
verdure. On proceeding I observed that the bergs fell off; and we
descended into a valley where a line of yarra trees enveloped a dry
creek, very much resembling the one seen by us on the Darling and named
Clover-creek. Crossing this dry course we soon regained the berg of the
river, and found it as favourable to our progress as before but, being of
red sand, I at length led the party along the firm clay at the base of
the higher ground.
STRANGE NATIVES FROM BEYOND THE MURRAY.
As the dogs were chasing a kangaroo across a bit of open flat four
natives appeared at the other side. They came frankly up to us and they
were well painted, broad white patches marking out the larger muscles of
the breasts, thighs, and arms, and giving their persons exactly the
appearance of savages as I have seen them represented in theatres. Their
hair was of a reddish hue and they were altogether men of a different
make from the tribe of the Darling. We accordingly allowed them to remain
in the camp which I took up on the margin of the Murray soon after our
meeting with them. They told us that a creek named Bengallo joined the
Murray amongst the numerous lagoons where we had been encamped two days
before; and they supposed it came from the hills near the Bogan, because
natives from that river sometimes came to the Murray by the banks of the
creek. They also informed us that the name of a river to the southward
was Perrainga; and (if we understood each other rightly by Piper's
interpretation) their name for lake Alexandrina was Kayinga: a lake which
however had, according to them, a wide deep outlet to the sea.
THEY DECAMP DURING THE NIGHT.
During that night it rained heavily and the natives left us, without
notice, during an interval of fair weather. There was much scrub about
the river and I was not quite satisfied with the position of our camp,
but a strict watch was always kept up, and we had excellent watch-dogs,
no bad protection against the midnight treachery of the aborigines.
REACH THE DARLING AND SURPRISE A NUMEROUS TRIBE OF NATIVES.
May 30.
We heard our new acquaintance cooeying in the bush but we gave no
attention to them and proceeded on our journey. The smooth and verdant
escarp of the river-berg guided us, while the river itself was sometimes
at hand and sometimes four miles off. This day I recognised several
shrubs which I had seen before only on the Darling. At length the berg
terminated altogether in a smooth round hill beyond which lay a low woody
country, intersected by lines of yarra trees in almost every direction. I
thought I perceived in one of these lines the course of the Darling
coming into the extensive valley from the northward; and the old hands
exclaimed, when they saw the bare plains to the north-west of our camp,
that we had got upon the Darling at last. Beyond this valley to the
south-westward I perceived that the bergs of the opposite bank of the
Murray were continuous and advanced to a point about west-south-west.
Upon the whole I was satisfied that we were near the junction of the two
rivers; and we encamped on the lower extremity of the point, already
mentioned, which overlooked a small lagoon and was not above three
hundred yards from an angle of the Murray.
May 31.
I now ventured to take a north-west course in expectation of falling in
with the supposed Darling. We crossed first a plain about two miles in
breadth, when we came to a line of yarra trees which enveloped a dry
creek from the north-east, and very like Clover-creek. We next travelled
over ground chiefly open, and at four miles crossed a sandhill on which
was a covered tomb, after the fashion of those on the Murray. On
descending from the sand-ridge we approached a line of yarra trees which
overhung a reach of green and stagnant water. I had scarcely arrived at
the bank when my attention was drawn to a fire about a hundred yards
before us and from beside which immediately sprung up a numerous tribe of
blacks who began to jump, wring their hands, and shriek, as if in a state
of utter madness or despair.
PIPER AND HIS GIN EXPLAIN.
These savages rapidly retired towards others who were at a fire on a
further part of the bank, but Piper and his gin, going boldly forward,
succeeded at length in getting within hail and in allaying their fears.
SEARCH FOR THE JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY.
While he was with these natives I had again leisure to examine the
watercourse upon which we had arrived. I could not consider it the
Darling as seen by me above, and so little did it seem the sister stream
to the Murray as described by Sturt that I at first thought it nothing
but an ana-branch of that river. Neither did these natives satisfy me
about Oolawambiloa, by which I had supposed the Darling was meant but
respecting which they still pointed westward. They however told Piper
that the channel we had reached contained all the waters of Wambool (the
Macquarie) and Callewatta (the upper Darling) and I accordingly
determined to trace it up at least far enough to identify it with the
latter. But I thought it right that we should endeavour first to
recognise the junction with the Murray as seen by Captain Sturt. The
natives said it was not far off; and I accordingly encamped at two
o'clock that I might measure back to that important point. Thirteen
natives set out as if to accompany us, for they begged that we would not
go so fast. Three of them however soon set off at full speed as if on a
message; and the remaining ten fell behind us. We had then passed the
camp of their gins and I supposed at the time that their only object was
to see us beyond these females, Piper being with us.
RETURN BY NIGHT.
I pursued the river through a tortuous course until sunset when I was
obliged to quit it and return to the camp by moonlight without having
seen anything of the Murray. I had however ascertained that the channel
increased very much in width lower down and, when it was filled with the
clay-coloured water of the flood then in the Murray, it certainly had the
appearance of a river of importance.
FOLLOWED BY THE NATIVES.
June 1.
The country to the eastward seemed so dry and scrubby that I could not
hope in returning to join Mr. Stapylton's party or reach the Murray by
any shorter route than that of our present track; and I therefore
postponed any further survey back towards the junction of the Darling and
Murray until I should be returning this way. We accordingly proceeded
upwards and were followed by the natives. They were late in coming near
us however which Piper and his gin accounted for as follows: As soon as
it was known to them, the day before, that we were gone to the junction,
the strong men of the tribe went by a shorter route; but they were thrown
out and disappointed by our stopping short of that promising point. There
they had passed the night and, having been busy looking for our track in
the morning, the earth's surface being to them a book they always read,
they were late in following our party.
Kangaroos were more numerous and larger here than at any other part we
had yet visited. This day one coming before me I fired at it with my
rifle; and a man beside me, after asking my permission, fired also. The
animal nevertheless ran amongst the party behind, some of whom hastily
and without permission discharged their carabines also.
HORSES TAKE FRIGHT.
At this four horses took fright and ran back at full speed along our
track. Several of the men who went after these horses fell in with two
large bodies of natives coming along this track, and one or two men had
nearly fallen into their hands twice.
BREAK LOOSE AND RUN BACK.
Tantragee (McLellan) when running at full speed pursued by bands of
savages escaped only by the opportune appearance of others of our men who
had caught the horses and happened to come up.
NARROW ESCAPE OF SOME MEN FROM NATIVES.
The natives then closed on our carts, and accompanied them in single
files on each side; but as they appeared to have got rid of all their
spears I saw no danger in allowing them to join us in that manner.
Chancing to look back at them however, when riding some way ahead, the
close contact of such numbers induced me to halt and call loudly,
cautioning the men, upon which I observed an old man and several others
suddenly turn and run and, on my going to the carts, the natives fell
back, those in their rear setting off at full speed.
FAILURE OF THEIR INTENDED ATTACK.
Soon after I perceived the whole tribe running away, as if a plan had
been suddenly frustrated. Piper and his gin, who had been watching them
attentively, now came up and explained to me these movements. It appeared
that the natives entertained the idea that our clothes were impervious to
spears, and had therefore determined on a trial of strength by suddenly
overpowering us, for which purpose they had planted (i.e. hidden) their
spears and all encumbrances, and had told off for each of us six or eight
of their number, whose attack was to be sudden and simultaneous. A
favourable moment had not occurred before they awoke my suspicions; and
thus their motives for sudden retreat were to be understood. That party
consisted of strong men, neither women nor boys being among them; and
although we had little to fear from such an attack, having arms in our
hands, the scheme was very audacious and amounted to a proof that these
savages no sooner get rid of their apprehensions than they think of
aggression. I had on several occasions noticed and frustrated
dispositions apparently intended for sudden attacks, for the natives
seemed always inclined to await favourable opportunities, and were
doubtless aware of the advantage of suddenness of attack to the
assailants.* Nothing seemed to excite the surprise of these natives,
neither horses nor bullocks, although they had never before seen such
animals, nor white men, carts, weapons, dress, or anything else we had.
All were quite new to them and equally strange, yet they looked at the
cattle as if they had been always amongst them, and they seemed to
understand at once the use of everything.
(*Footnote. For a proof of this see extract from Sydney Herald of May
21st 1838 in Appendix 2.3.)
We continued our journey and soon found all the usual features of the
Darling; the hills of soft red sand near the river covered with the same
kind of shrubs seen so much higher up.
DIFFERENT MODES OF INTERMENT.
The graves had no longer any resemblance to those on the Murrumbidgee and
Murray, but were precisely similar to the places of interment we had seen
on the Darling, being mounds surrounded by and covered with dead branches
and pieces of wood.* On these lay the same singular casts of the head in
white plaster which we had before seen only at Fort Bourke.** It is
indeed curious to observe the different modes of burying adopted by the
natives on different rivers. For instance on the Bogan they bury in
graves covered like our own and surrounded with curved walks and
ornamented ground.*** On the Lachlan under lofty mounds of earth, seats
being made around them. On the Murrumbidgee and Murray the graves are
covered with well thatched huts containing dried grass for bedding and
enclosed by a parterre of a particular shape, like the inside of a
whale-boat.**** On the Darling, as above stated, the graves are in
mounds* covered with dead branches and limbs of trees, and are surrounded
by a ditch, which here we found encircled by a fence of dead limbs and
branches.
(*Footnote. See Plate 16 volume 1.)
(**Footnote. See Volume 1.)
(***Footnote. See Plate 20 volume 1.)
(****Footnote. See above.)
REDUCED APPEARANCE OF THE DARLING.
As we proceeded the sandhills became more numerous and their surface
softer; while the scrub was at length so close that it was difficult to
follow any particular bearing in travelling through it. Near the river
the surface was broken up by beds of dry lagoons which evidently became
branches of the main stream in times of flood; and the intervening ground
was covered with Polygonum junceum. At length I reached an angle of the
river and encamped on a small flat beside a sandhill. Here the Darling
was only a chain of ponds and I walked across its channel dry-shod, the
bed consisting of coarse sand and angular fragments of ferruginous
sandstone. The width and depth between the immediate banks were about the
same as I had found them in the most narrow and shallow parts during my
former journey. While I stood on the adverse side or right bank of this
hopeless river I began to think I had pursued its course far enough. The
identity was no longer a question.
DESERT CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
The country on its banks in this part presented also the same unvaried
desert features that it did in the districts examined by us during the
preceding year. The Murray, unlike the Darling, was a permanent river,
and I thought it advisable to exhaust no more of my means in the survey
of deserts but rather employ them and the time still at my disposal in
exploring the sources of that river, according to my instructions and in
hopes of discovering a better country. My anxiety about the safety of the
depot brought me more speedily to this determination. During the wet and
cold weather there might be less activity among the savage natives, but
it was not probable that the tribe which had collected 500 men to attack
Captain Sturt would be quiet in my rear after having lost some of their
number. To be in detached parties amongst a savage population was
perilous in proportion to the length of time we continued separate; and I
did not feel warranted in exhausting all my means in order to attain, by
a circuitous route, the point where my survey ought to have commenced;
while a second duty for which the means now left were scarcely adequate
remained to be performed. I had already reached a point far above where
any boat could be taken, or even any heavy carts; and nothing was to be
gained by following the river further.
The natives were heard by Piper several times during the day's journey in
the woods beyond the river, as if moving along the right bank in a route
parallel with ours; but they did not appear near our camp, although their
smoke was seen at a distance.
RAINY MORNING.
June 2.
For several days the barometer had been falling and this morning the
weather was rainy and cold.
RETURN OF THE PARTY.
After tracing the further course of the Darling for some distance and
obtaining, during an interval of sunshine, a view from a sandhill which
commanded a very extensive prospect to the northward, I commenced the
retrograde movement along our route, which was but too deeply visible in
the sand. From what Piper had said the men expected an engagement during
the morning; and it was doubtful, on account of the wetness of the day,
whether their pieces would go off if the natives came on; but fortunately
we continued our journey unmolested. We reached our former encampment
notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the ground, and again pitched
our tents upon it. We found among the scrubs this day a new curious
species of Baeckea with extremely small scattered leaves not larger than
grains of millet, plano-convex and covered with pellucid dots.*
(*Footnote. B. crassifolia, Lindley manuscripts; glaberrima, foliis
subrotundis oblongisque obtusis plano-convexis crassis, floribus
solitariis axillaribus pedicellatis cernuis, laciniis calycinis
marginatis integerrimis petalis integris brevioribus.)
SURPRISE THE FEMALES OF THE TRIBE.
June 3.
The natives had not again appeared, so that Piper's conjecture that they
were moving up the river by the opposite bank with a view to assemble the
tribes higher up appeared to be correct. Their gins had been left at
their old camp; for as the party crossed a flat not far from it, and I
fired at a kangaroo, their voices were immediately heard, signal columns
of smoke arose in the air, and they hurried with their children to the
opposite side of the Darling. From this astonishment on their part at our
appearance, and especially from their flight, knowing well then who we
were, it was not improbable that they knew the men were absent on some
mischievous scheme affecting us.
JUNCTION OF THE DARLING AND MURRAY.
I struck out of the former line of route for the purpose of extending my
measurement to the junction of the rivers, and thus at length found the
Darling within a zone of trees which I had formerly taken for the line of
the Murray. The banks were high and the channel was also much broader
here. After tracing this river about four miles I found that the still
but turbid backwater from the larger stream nearly reached the top of the
grassy bank of the other. At length I perceived the Murray before me
coming from the south-south-east, a course directly opposed to that in
which I had followed the Darling for a mile. Both rivers next turned
south-west, then westward, leaving a narrow tongue of land between, and
from the point where they both turned westward to their junction at the
extremity of this ground between them, I found that the distance was
exactly three-quarters of a mile. A bank of sand extended further and, on
standing upon this and looking back, I recognised the view given in
Captain Sturt's work and the adjacent localities described by him. The
state of the rivers was no longer however the same as when this spot was
first visited. All the water visible now belonged to the Murray, whose
course was rapid, while its turbid flood filled also the channel of the
Darling, but was there perfectly still. We were then distant about a
hundred miles from the rest of the party who, before we could join them,
might have had enough to do with the natives. I thought that in case it
might ever be necessary to look for us, this junction was the most likely
spot where traces might be sought; and I therefore buried near the point,
beside a tree marked with a large M and the word Dig, a phial in which I
placed a paper containing a brief statement of the circumstances under
which we had arrived there, and our proposed route to the depot, adding
also the names of the men with me. As the ground was soft it was not
necessary to dig but merely to drop the phial into a hole made with the
scabbard of my sabre; and I hoped that the bottle would escape in
consequence the notice of the natives.
EFFECT OF ALTERNATE FLOODS THERE.
The greater width and apparently important character of the Darling near
its mouth may perhaps be accounted for by supposing that floods do not
always occur in it and the Murray at the same time. The remoteness of the
sources of the two rivers and the consequent difference of climate may
occasion a flood in the one, while the waters of the other may be very
low. That this is likely to happen sometimes may be inferred from the
difference between the relative state of the atmosphere on the eastern
coast and on the Darling. This difference seems to have been so
considerable during the last journey as materially to have affected our
barometrical measurements taken simultaneously with observations at
Sydney. When the bed of the greater river is also the deepest any flood
descending by the other channel when the larger stream is low must flow
with greater force into that which is deeper, and in a soft and yielding
soil may thus increase the width of its own channel. On the contrary a
flood coming down the greater river while the minor channel may happen to
be dry must first flow upwards some miles and so fill this channel and,
being thus affected both by the rising and subsidence of the greater
stream, this process would have had a tendency to deepen and widen the
lower part of the Darling.