south-west side of the bay, and being much intersected by hills, it
is difficult to get a good view of the whole range, unless from the
top of one of the mountains near the city, such as the celebrated
“Corcovado,” which stands out like a pulpit on the plain below, and
is some 2,500 feet perpendicular. The view from this pulpit on a
clear day is superb, and I should almost say unequalled in the
world: the city, with its numerous divisions and suburbs below
you—the bay, extending as far as the eye can reach, until lost in
the plain below the Organ Mountain—the sea, studded with numerous
picturesque islands, with vessels looking like white specks upon it,
and seen to a great distance—all together form a most enchanting
picture, and amply repay the toil of an ascent. The mountain is of
granite rock, like all others in this country, but thickly wooded
almost to the summit, and you come out quite suddenly on the bare
point before alluded to, so much resembling a pulpit. In consequence
of the tortuous formation of the streets, constructed round the base
of the hills, it is difficult to get more than a bird's-eye view of
the city, on ground made by encroachment on the sea; consequently,
the streets are low, without drainage, and in several of the back
ones the water collects and stagnates, to the great detriment of
health and comfort. Rio itself is a bad copy of Lisbon—streets at
right angles, a large square facing the sea, and the suburbs
extending up the hills which everywhere meet your eye. In Lisbon the
streets are tolerably wide, but here they have built them so
miserably narrow, that scarcely even one carriage can pass through,
much less pass each other; and it is evident that such vehicles were
never contemplated in the original formation of these streets. The
only way of getting over the difficulty is for carriages coming into
the city to take one line of streets, and those leaving it another,
which they do, excluding omnibuses altogether from the principal
thoroughfares. Improvements in this way were what I found most
backward; indeed there was a marked falling-off in such respect
since I was last here, and there seems a great want of municipal
government.[2] In many places the pavement is execrable, and
generally very bad, the difficulty having been probably increased by
laying down mains for water and gas, the latter now in process of
execution, and also to heavy rains having washed away many parts of
the road, and otherwise caused much damage. Once this troublesome
job is got through, it is to be hoped that some effective measures
will be taken to put the streets and branch roads in order;
otherwise they will soon be rendered impassable. Coach and
coach-spring making must be thriving trades here, especially with
the immense increase that has taken place in the number of carriages
and omnibuses; and it is really wonderful how they stand the
continual shocks they have to endure.[3] Government seems at last
alive to the absolute necessity of doing something to improve the
sanitary condition of the city, and also its internal organization,
as they have lately got out some good practical English engineers,
who I have no doubt will suggest an effective mode of dealing with
present difficulties. If they do not adopt decisive measures the
rate of mortality may be expected to augment fearfully in a dense
population of 300,000 to 400,000 inhabitants, huddled together in
some 15,000 houses, surrounded by impurities of every kind, not the
least being the stagnant water in the streets. No exact census has
ever been taken of the population of Rio Janeiro, which is generally
believed to be between the two figures above given. There is a
migratory population, but the accumulation of humanity of every race
and colour, contained in some of the large dwelling-houses, is
something extraordinary. As before observed, nature has done much
for this country, and if the natural facilities of Rio Janeiro were
properly availed of, and local improvements carried out with energy
and spirit, it might be rendered one of the finest and most
luxuriant places within the tropics.[4] The opportunity is now open
to them; the Government possess ample means, and it is just a
question whether measures of progress are to be effectively
achieved, or the city to be abandoned to its fate. The great evil
attending all improvement in Brazil is an undue appreciation of
native capability and a disparagement or mistrust of those whose
practical experience would enable them to grapple with the
difficulties that surround them—a kind of little jealousy or
distrust that prevents their availing themselves of opportunities
thrown in their way to carry out undertakings necessary to the
well-being of the country: nor can they understand the principle on
which such things are regulated in England, still less the magnitude
of operations carried on there and in many other parts of Europe.
Yet the time seems to be coming when these principles will be better
understood here, and when the application of English capital towards
the improvement of the country may be safely and legitimately
brought to bear.
I quote this in order to point out the increase of population and
improvements which have been carried out in the city since it was
written, and amongst which may be enumerated:—
The paving of streets, drainage works, &c.
Lighting the city with gas.
Increased number of omnibuses, private carriages, and conveyances of
all kinds.
Public gardens and ornamental squares.
Railways and tramways.
First, as regards the number of inhabitants, it is difficult to arrive
at correct figures in the absence of a census, but according to the
municipal authorities, the population of Rio and the suburbs (which
comprise a circuit of many miles) is now about 600,000. If building be
any criterion, the increase of population must be very considerable.
Since the period to which I allude, the city has extended itself in
every possible direction, for without actually climbing the mountains
there is a limit to building ground. The new streets are wide, and many
of the new buildings exhibit a beautiful style of architecture, very
suitable to the climate, especially in the suburbs. The number of shops
has largely increased, and they are generally nicely decorated. Some
public markets have been built, such as the Gloria, Harmonia, &c.
Property has also greatly risen in value, and fabulous prices have been
paid for land in the city favourably situated. The paving of the streets
has also been carried out most efficiently. All the leading
thoroughfares in and out of the city are now well paved, and in this
respect the road from the Public Gardens to Bota Fogo would compare
advantageously with any in Europe, that portion passing through the
Cattete being a perfect specimen of good paving. As to the drainage
works, they speak for themselves to those who recollect what Rio was
twenty years back, and the names of Brassey and Gotto will long be
remembered as public benefactors in this part of the world. I had not
time to examine these great works in detail, but shall avail of an
opportunity on my return to do so. Gas has been most successfully
introduced, both as regards quantity, quality, and usefulness, and it
must have been an enormous saving of trouble and expense in a country
where so many lights are required, and which was formerly dependent on
oil lamps and candles. Not only is the city well lighted, but every
suburb, miles in extent, thereby greatly adding to comfort and security.
Under these circumstances it will hardly be a matter of surprise that
the gas company pays a very good dividend. It has rather a curious
effect on some of the country roads to see gas lamps peeping out from
the thick foliage of tropical plants, as if in competition with the
fire-flies dancing about.
Rio positively swarms with omnibuses, carriages, and Tilburys. The
former are plain enough in appearance, but are drawn by four mules at a
good speed. The carriages, which are manufactured on the spot, are
generally very superior in quality, with a couple of mules or horses,
and the Tilbury is a kind of cab with cover, to hold one person with the
driver. The fares, considering the distances traversed, are on the whole
moderate, although charges in this respect are complained of. The Public
Gardens have been very much improved since I was last here, and under
the shade of the trees it is very pleasant to sit and admire the beauty
of the scenery presented by the surrounding hills, and the view of the
bay in front, the busy city shutout, and everything in quiet repose save
the rumble of carriages passing along the streets. Another public garden
has been established in the square called Praça da Constituiçao, where
there is a fine statue of the first Emperor Dom Pedro proclaiming the
independence of the Empire. A still larger square, called the Campo de
Santa Anna, might advantageously be converted to a similar purpose, and
would form probably the most extensive area of this kind in the world,
affording shade and shelter from the rays of the sun to thousands of
citizens who have to cross it. At present, near the public fountains, it
is occupied by laundresses, and in certain spots rubbish is thrown, but
other parts are being planted, especially near the Senate House, the War
Office, and those of Public Works and Foreign Affairs, the Museum and
the new Mint, the latter one of the finest buildings in Rio. The
municipal taxes are few, and it is not easy to find a surplus to be
employed in ornamental works. As regards the railways, I must reserve my
notice of them till my return from the Plate, as at present my sojourn
in the Empire is limited to a couple of days in the capital.
* * * * *
The terrible ravages of the cholera in the River Plate brought me back
to Rio de Janeiro sooner than I had contemplated, as there was nothing
whatever to be done down there under such circumstances. At one period
both town and country places were threatened with absolute decimation,
and the daily tales of horror exceeded almost anything on record. In
many cases, when no one could be found to bury the dead inside ranchos,
or cottages, they were set fire to as the only way of disposing of the
bodies therein. In the Province of Buenos Ayres alone the loss of life
is computed at 25,000, and other provinces suffered almost in an equal
ratio, so that the actual loss of life and property in the Argentine
Republic must have been something enormous. In the Banda Oriental the
losses were severe, and at one time the mortality at Monte Video itself
was almost as great as at Buenos Ayres. Farms were in many cases
abandoned, and sheep and cattle left to roam at large; crops rotted in
the ground, growers of fruits and vegetables were ruined, the markets
for these products being closed, and their entrance into the town
prohibited. In fact it appeared as if the destroying angel was passing
over the devoted land; nor do I believe, from all I could learn on the
spot, that cholera was the only form of disease. It rather resembled the
fearful destruction of the Israelites, when Moses and Aaron “stood
between the living and the dead.” How soon, however, such fearful
visitations are forgotten. Except from the general appearance of
mourning when I returned to the River Plate about three months later,
and the crowded state of the cemeteries, no one could imagine that
Buenos Ayres and Monte Video had gone through such a fearful ordeal.
Everything went on as usual, and people looked after their farms and
their merchandise as if nothing had happened, though doubtless many
feared the return of the hot season, before which very little will have
been done in the way of sanatary precaution. That the cholera will
become a permanent visitor in the River Plate seems unlikely, if we are
to judge from its erratic course in other parts of the world, but no one
can say that the scourge will not prevail until the cities and towns are
effectively sewered and drained. The climate itself is healthy enough,
but then this is no safeguard against epidemics, which have their origin
in impurities allowed to accumulate until cities become pest-houses.
On my return from the River Plate, in the beginning of February, I
availed myself of the opportunity to ramble about the city and suburbs,
to visit old friends, and to go over the railways, an account of which
will be found under its proper head. The weather was still very hot,
with frequent heavy thunder storms, some terrifically grand—more so than
I ever remember during a two years' residence here. From my room window,
at the Hotel dos Estrangeiros, I could see the whole heavens lighted up
with frequent flashes, and now and again portions of the bay and of the
mountains stood out as if from a sea of fire. Then the awful crash of
the thunder, followed by instant and utter darkness, and with
reverberations shaking the house to its foundations, all combined to
heighten the grandeur and sublimity of the scene. As for sleeping in the
midst of such turmoil, it was simply impossible.
Both February and March were very wet, stormy months, and on one
occasion some large trees were blown down about the city, and much
damage done to the roofs of houses, many of which are not very well
protected from such visitations. Similar weather followed me to San
Paulo, but on my return to Rio, after again visiting the River Plate,
the weather was delightfully cool, fine, and pleasant, equal to the most
agreeable portion of our summer weather in Europe. There is no doubt the
climate of Rio de Janeiro is a healthy one, and it is a striking fact
that scarcely any cases of epidemic have occurred since the sewerage of
the city was completed, nor any visitation of cholera, notwithstanding
sick and wounded were constantly arriving from the seat of war, and that
the quarantine was merely nominal. I am convinced the very thunder
storms to which I have alluded tend to purify the atmosphere. The
deluges of rain of course exercise a great cleansing power, and it has
been noticed in years when thunder storms did not prevail that much
sickness followed. One requires to go closely over the city before he
finds out improvements which have been effected in Rio, which are
nowhere so palpable as when passing through the great public
thoroughfares. With such a number of narrow intersecting streets, no
adequate idea of the size or extent of the city can be formed until some
of the hills about it are ascended, such as that of Santa Theresa. It
is, however, from the top of the Corcovado that its dimensions are most
striking, from whence also the spectator can form a fair notion of the
extent of the bay.
I have before remarked on the defective state of the landing-places,
that most used, near the custom-house, being a very dirty, dilapidated
wooden jetty, about which the rabble of the city seems to collect, and
it is always a scene of much uproar and confusion. There is quite a
Babel among the boatmen and their black hangers-on. There are some other
landing-places, with stone steps, in front of the large square, whence
the ferry-boats across the bay take their departure, but these are not
very convenient, and the untidy state of the public market which stands
here is a disgrace to the municipality. Indeed nothing can be more
derogatory to a large city like Rio de Janeiro, possessing the finest
harbour in the world, than such landing places, which create a most
unfavourable impression on strangers. The Custom-house, with its wharves
and warehouse, the Marine Arsenal and Building-yard, together with the
private wharves, occupy a large portion of the water frontage, but there
is still sufficient space left, if it were properly laid out, as I
believe is intended before very long, for decent landing-places for the
public. Speaking of the Custom-house, the source from whence a large
portion of the revenue of the country is derived, it is an unsightly
building, though immense sums of money have been spent, and are still
being spent, in order to obtain adequate accommodation for the
increasing trade of the port. Hydraulic lifts and machinery of every
possible kind are in course of erection, and a few years will doubtless
see the Rio Custom-house take its stand as the finest building of the
sort in South America. The old Praça do Commercio, or Exchange, with its
dismal vaulted roof, remains unchanged since my last visit, but when the
Custom-house is completed I believe it is intended to construct an
exchange more worthy of the place, with suitable accommodation attached.
This, as well as a foreigners' club, is much required at Rio, where the
foreign population is numerous and influential, and ought to be
represented in a manner consistent with its importance.
When I lived here in the years 1848 and 1849, there was much
sociability,—amongst the English residents at all events—but this
appears to have quite died out, and even ceremonial visits are now
rarely exchanged. The only society worthy of the name existing in Rio is
that associated with the diplomatic circle, which is of course more or
less exclusive in its character. I must nevertheless notice one
institution in which I found a great change for the better. I mean the
English Church. A good deal of money has been spent in connection with
this edifice, entirely raised by private subscriptions, and certainly it
has been well spent. The recess built out for the communion table is
very pretty, and the organ is well placed, in a line with the body of
the church. There is a good choir, the whole arrangements being very
complete, and the service efficiently performed. The Rev. Mr. Preston is
chaplain.
Whilst in Rio, I went to the Palace of Sao Christovao, and had the
honour of being presented to the Emperor, whom I was glad to see looking
well, but thinner than when I last saw him, fifteen years since. The
Palace is well situated, on a rising ground, with a good prospect, and
appears to be comfortable enough, but without any gorgeous display. The
Court is very simple in its habits, and the democratic tendencies of the
people render access to it comparatively easy.
With regard to politics, the Government has generally an opposition
party to contend with, both in the Chamber and in the Senate, but
without impeding the regular proceedings of these bodies, which, on the
whole, are conducted with great decorum, and the speeches are very fully
and fairly reported,[5] occupying whole pages of the daily papers. The
_Jornal do Commercio_ still stands pre-eminent in the Rio press—as the
_Times_, in fact, of the Brazilian Empire.
The political discussions in the press, which are perfectly free, are
often pursued with considerable acrimony. At the same time there is a
degree of reticence observable which some of our newspaper writers would
do well to imitate. Brazil does not lack parliamentary orators or able
statesmen, but public business is trammelled with too much of red tapery
as at home. The current of popular feeling does not run very deep from
the fact that the bulk of the community are too much absorbed in their
business occupations to leave them much time for political discussions,
to which a large portion of Englishmen devote themselves because they
have little else to do. It must not, however, be inferred from this
remark that Brazilians are indifferent to what passes inside the walls
of the Senate or of the Chamber. The support the Government has received
in carrying on a long and costly war proves that the honour and
well-being of the Empire is as dear to them as to the most patriotic
people.
I am glad to have to record the abolition of passports in Brazil unless
specially asked for. I had occasion to notice the inconvenience caused
on a late trip to the River Plate, and it is gratifying to see that
Brazilian statesmen appreciate the march of events in this respect, as I
trust will also soon be the case in facilitating the despatch of
passengers' luggage. As a rule, passengers do not carry with them
articles subject to duty, though, of course, a surveillance in this
matter is quite necessary. At Buenos Ayres there is a custom station on
the mole or landing place where passengers can bring their luggage,
which is at once examined and passed, thus saving much time and trouble.
The Post-office is on the whole pretty well managed and letters are
promptly delivered on arrival of the mails. The building is, however,
quite unsuited to the requirements of so large a city as Rio de Janeiro,
and I learn that it is intended to erect a fine new post-office in a
square facing the Bay, which will be a great convenience to the public.
I found the population on the opposite side of the bay had not increased
as much as I expected, although the facility of crossing by the large
American ferry steamers is a great convenience. Nitherohy is a large
straggling place, supposed to contain a population of about 20,000, but
there are many houses uninhabited, nor do the Rio people show much
partiality for a residence there even at a much less rent. Some handsome
villas have been built there, and it is intended to light the place with
gas, which would be a decided advantage to the residents. Some of the
islands in the upper parts of the bay are now cultivated and inhabited,
and numerous small craft ply between them and Rio de Janeiro, bringing
down fruits and vegetables.
In the appendix to this volume will be found sundry official documents
and statistical information in reference to the resources and commerce
of Brazil. The institutions of the Empire are very favourable to
mercantile development, and the great progress made within the past half
century is indicative of a highly prosperous future.
-----
Footnote 2:
The Bank, Exchange, Custom House, and Arsenal (of late years greatly
extended) are in the Rua Direita. Besides these, the chief public
edifices and the Imperial Palace, a plain brick building; the Old
Palace, on the shore, used for public offices; a public hospital,
alluded to elsewhere, erected in 1841; a national library, with
800,000 printed volumes, and many valuable MSS.; and a well-supported
opera house, which has supplied Europe with some very popular
performers, especially in the ballet line, as witness that general
favourite, Madame Celeste, who came from Rio, in 1830, with her sister
Constance, another danseuse, and appeared for the first time in
England at Liverpool, in the divertissement in Masaniello, Sinclair
being Auber's hero. The educational establishments are the Imperial
College of Don Pedro II.; the College of St. Jose; Schools of Medicine
and Surgery; Military and Naval Academy; and many public schools. It
has also many scientific institutions; a museum rich in Ornithology,
Entomology, and Mineralogy; and a fine botanic garden. Of churches
there are upwards of fifty, not of much external elegance, but most
sumptuously decorated in the interior.
Footnote 3:
The inhabitants of Rio Janeiro are fond of carriages, but the
specimens generally seen would hardly do for Hyde Park, being chiefly
old-fashioned coaches, drawn by four scraggy mules, with a black
coachman on the box, and a postillion in jack-boots on the leaders,
sitting well back, and with his feet stuck out beyond the mule's
shoulders. The liveries are generally gorgeous enough, and there is no
lack of gold lace on the cocked hats and coats; but a black slave does
not enter into the spirit of the thing, and one footman will have his
hat cocked athwartships, the other fore and aft; one will have shoes
and stockings with his toes peeping through, the other will dispense
with them altogether. But the old peer rolls on unconscious, and I
dare say the whole thing is pronounced a neat turn out. The Brazilians
are great snuff-takers, and always offer their box, if the visitor is
a welcome guest. It is etiquette to take the offered pinch with the
left hand. Rapé is the Portuguese for snuff, hence our word Rappee.
They do not smoke much. The opera was good, the house very large,
tolerably lighted, but not so thickly attended as it might be. The
ladies look better by candle light, their great failing being in their
complexions, the tint of which may be exactly described by the
midshipman's simile of snuff and butter. The orchestra was good, many
of the performers being blacks or mulattos, who are excellent
musicians. The African race seem to like music and generally have a
pretty good ear. Both men and women often whistle well, and I have
heard the washerwomen at their work whistling polkas with great
correctness. I was amused one evening on going out of the opera when
it was half over: offering my ticket to a decent-looking man, he
bowed, but refused it, saying that men with jackets were not allowed
in the house.—_Elves._
Footnote 4:
The population of Rio, on the arrival of the royal family, did not
amount to 50,000, but afterwards rapidly augmented; so that in 1815,
when declared independent, the number had nearly doubled, and now is
estimated at about 400,000 with the suburbs and the provincial capital
of Nitherohy, on the opposite shore of the Bay. This increase is
partly to be ascribed to the afflux of Portuguese, who have at
different times left their country in consequence of the civil
commotions which have disturbed its peace, as well as of English,
French, Dutch, German, and Italians, who, after the opening of the
port, settled here, some as merchants, others as mechanics, and have
contributed largely to its wealth and importance. These accessions of
Europeans have affected a great change in the character of the
population, for at the commencement of the century, and for many years
afterwards, the blacks and coloured persons far exceeded the whites,
whereas now they are reduced to less than half the inhabitants. In the
aggregate population of the empire, however, the coloured portion is
still supposed to be treble the white.
Footnote 5:
The difference between reporting proceedings of the Brazilian and
English legislatures is that the latter appear daily, whilst it takes
many days before speeches in the Brazilian Chambers are published, and
frequently a large double sheet is issued to make up for arrears.
THE WAR IN PARAGUAY.