[Illustration: Dr. Gunning's House, overlooking the Valley of Macacos]
BRAZIL
AND
THE RIVER PLATE
IN 1868:
BY
WILLIAM HADFIELD,
SHOWING THE PROGRESS OF THOSE COUNTRIES SINCE HIS FORMER VISIT IN 1853.
[Illustration]
LONDON:
BATES, HENDY AND CO., 4, OLD JEWRY, E.C.
1869.
ENT. STA. HALL.
DUNLOP & CO., PRINTERS,
King's Head Court, Shoe Lane, E.C.
CONTENTS.
THE VOYAGE OUT 9
THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO 25
THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO 31
THE WAR IN PARAGUAY 45
THE PROVINCE OF SAN PAULO 51
THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY 55
THE CITY OF SAN PAULO 66
SAN PAULO TO SANTOS AND RIO DE JANEIRO 83
TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORA.—THE DON PEDRO SEGUNDO RAILWAY 86
RIO DE JANEIRO TO THE RIVER PLATE, SECOND TRIP 99
CITY OF BUENOS AYRES 103
BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA—ESTANZUELLA 107
TRIP ON THE CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY 112
THE WESTERN RAILWAY OF BUENOS AYRES 125
BUENOS AYRES—SECOND NOTICE 131
PROGRESS OF STEAM NAVIGATION ON LA PLATA 142
RAILWAYS IN THE RIVER PLATE 146
EMIGRATION TO BRAZIL 154
EMIGRATION TO THE RIVER PLATE 158
RAILWAYS IN BRAZIL 164
COMMERCE OF BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE 173
THE RIVER AMAZON 185
TELEGRAPHIC COMMUNICATIONS 197
RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS 200
THE AFFLUENTS OF LA PLATA 203
THE REPUBLIC OF PARAGUAY 206
BRAZILIAN CURRENCY 217
ARGENTINE FINANCES 231
THE PORT AND HARBOUR OF SANTOS 239
THE VOYAGE HOME 245
APPENDIX OF OFFICIAL AND OTHER DOCUMENTS 253
ERRATA.
Page 132.—For Club “El Temple” read “Del Parque.”
Page 167.—Transpose in table words “Revenue” and “Working.”
Page 169.—For “£150,000” read “£15,000.”
PREFACE.
This work makes no pretentions to literary merit, but, as its title
indicates, is simply a narrative descriptive of the progress of the
countries specially referred to, which, though England has long
maintained intimate commercial relations with them, are still but very
imperfectly known to the British public. In the Old World generations
follow each other without any very perceptible alteration being
observable in the characteristic surroundings, but in the New World, as
America is still termed, a few years often effect changes of the most
important and striking description. This is notably the case as respects
Brazil and the River Plate, the growth of which has been very
remarkable.
Since the year 1854, when my former work was published, a large amount
of English capital has been invested in various enterprises connected
with Brazil and the River Plate, and particularly for the construction
of railways, the formation of banks, and the promotion of steam
navigation on the great Rivers communicating with the interior. If the
results have not, in several instances, proved wholly satisfactory as
regards the distribution of dividends, the fact is in a considerable
degree, if not entirely, owing to mismanagement of some kind or other;
and I think there can be no doubt that a prosperous future yet lies
before all the companies in question. On the other hand, large gains
have been secured, showing that those regions present a profitable and
wide field for the further employment of our surplus capital.
The commercial tendencies of Brazil and the Platine States are most
liberal, and their policy is the very opposite of that pursued under the
exclusive domination of Portugal and Spain. The Empire, not long since,
received the approval of all civilised nations for its decree opening up
the waters of the noble Amazon to free commerce, and the unrestricted
navigation of the upper riverine streams will be one of the chief
advantages the victory of the allies in the present war will confer upon
mankind.
The extent of territory embraced within the limits of Brazil, and what
are commonly called the Platine States, cannot easily be realised by
those who have never travelled out of Europe; and it is equally
difficult to convey any adequate idea of their wonderful fertility and
productiveness. Nature has blessed them with her choicest gifts, and, to
take the highest rank amongst the nations, their sole want is increased
population; and this is precisely what overcrowded Europe can very well
spare. I am glad to be able to state that the respective Governments are
fully impressed with the necessity of adopting comprehensive and
effective measures with a view to attracting emigrants to their shores.
My intended movements during my visit were much interfered with by the
cholera in the Plate and the protracted duration of hostilities in
Paraguay, but I was enabled to satisfy myself of the complete
realisation in 1868 of my most sanguine predictions in 1853.
BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE
IN
1868.
THE VOYAGE OUT.
A beaten track does not present the same novelty as a fresh one, except
in the case of countries in what is still termed the New World, and
which are again about to be described. It was in 1853 I last visited
Brazil and the River Plate, and published my observations upon them. An
interval of fifteen years has wrought many changes and produced
wonderful progress there, and if the Southern portion of the American
Continent has not kept pace with the Northern it may be chiefly ascribed
to the continued great influx of emigrant population to the latter from
all parts of Europe, but consisting chiefly of the Anglo-Saxon race.
From this cause, even the loss of at least a million of American
citizens by the great civil war has caused no perceptible diminution in
the American census, because it is constantly replenished from Europe.
The African race has, however, come to the surface in a most
unlooked-for manner, their shackles having been removed by a violent
shock, which has, for a time at least, caused great social disturbance,
and left the Southern States more or less at the mercy of the “niggers,”
as the blacks are generally termed. What may be the ultimate result, or
how things will “settle down,” is yet a problem to be solved. Meantime,
slavery in Brazil remains a domestic institution, but it is doomed to
inevitable extinction. The process of emancipation will be watched with
much interest by all who desire to see the Brazilian Empire rise to the
position it is capable of attaining. The tide of emigration to Brazil,
spite of this disadvantage, has, however, fairly set in, and the subject
will be treated of in its proper place. Happily, in the River Plate
there exists no such hindrance to the development of free labour, for
which it also presents a boundless field, and it will be the study of
the writer to show how a portion, at all events, of the surplus
population of Europe can be located there, to the great advantage of
those who embrace the opening as well as of the country itself, whose
chief and most urgent want is labour. The Paraguayan war and the
terrible ravages of the cholera have been a great drawback to internal
improvement in the Argentine Republic, but it is gratifying to think
that the encouraging picture drawn by the writer on his first visit to
the Plate has been more than realised—the motto of the Platine States
should now be “_Peace and Progress_.” The “log” of an outward-bound
passenger on board an ocean steamer now possesses but little interest;
still, a record of the changes which have taken place in the means of
transit since my last voyage, made fifteen years ago, may be worthy of
notice, and will also afford information to those who contemplate a trip
to Brazil or the River Plate. Success does not always attend even the
best organised and most promising enterprises, but all experience had
even then proved that there was ample scope for the employment of
capital in promoting intercourse by means of steam with those countries
that can only be reached by crossing the ocean. The South American
Company, with which at that time I was connected, started under
unfortunate circumstances. Ships were high in price, and rates of fuel
were exorbitant by reason of the Crimean War. They lost in addition two
of their steamers in a most unlooked-for manner, which sadly deranged
their operations; but emphatically the two grave errors committed by the
company were, first, in building more ships than they could raise
capital to pay for; and, secondly, in abandoning the line after their
experience had thus been paid for, and at the very moment when the
traffic was becoming lucrative; for there can be no question that had
they continued to run their steamers, instead of being seduced by the
tempting terms of charter offered by Government, they would now have
been in existence as a powerful company, paying good dividends. This was
not to be however, and on the abandonment of the line, the Royal Mail
Company was left without a competitor, and so enabled to realise large
profits. Had this latter company read rightly the signs of the times, or
met the requirements of _commerce_ by despatching a steamer once a month
from Liverpool, alternately with their regular mail from Southampton,
they would not only have made more money, but to a considerable extent
rendered themselves independent of Government subsidies. Their monopoly
was exercised injuriously for the interests of the countries they were
trading to, of which the French Emperor had the sagacity to take
advantage, by subsidizing a company from Bordeaux, which has continued a
most successful career, for it cannot be disputed that French steam
navigation and the development of French commerce are almost entirely
due to his Imperial Majesty's remarkable prescience. As a natural
consequence of increased facilities the passenger traffic with Brazil
and the River Plate has wonderfully increased, and at times both lines
are inconveniently crowded, the French one being for some reason
preferred by South Americans and foreigners. Subsequently some
unsuccessful attempts were made to establish other steam lines to
Brazil. What was termed the Brokers' line was started from Liverpool to
the River Plate, but it was not until Messrs. Lamport and Holt took the
business in hand that private steam navigation was established on a firm
basis from that port, and the fine fleet of the astronomical line now
supersedes to a considerable extent the use of sailing ships. They have
also entered into a contract with the British Government to despatch a
mail steamer on the 20th of every month, the first (the Hipparchus)
having left Liverpool on the 20th August last. Last on the list comes
what is now generally known as “Tait's” line, on board one of the
steamers of which, the City of Limerick, I am now embarked. They are
fine steamers, with superior accommodation for first-class passengers at
very moderate rates. A line from London, calling at Falmouth, has long
been a favourite project, which Messrs. Tait have at length carried into
effect with every prospect of success. They have wisely appreciated the
growing requirements of population in Brazil and the River Plate, and
are preparing to convey a number of third-class passengers by their
steamers at a cheap rate. By confining their operations to Rio de
Janeiro and the River Plate they are enabled to land goods and
passengers at Monte Video and Buenos Ayres under 30 days. The importance
of this line has been greatly enhanced by the contract entered into with
the Belgian Government, under which the steamers are to call at Antwerp
on their way out and home, the latter after landing passengers at
Falmouth.[1]
This brief reference to the progress of steam navigation to Brazil and
the River Plate will show the growth of passenger traffic during the
last few years, and sufficiently indicate the great increase of commerce
with these countries, not only as regards Great Britain, but also as
respects continental ports, which will be more clearly illustrated in
later portions of this volume; meantime, as an index to passenger
traffic, it is my intention to obtain statistics from the different
companies, and to present them in a table which will speak for itself. I
may further remark that a steam company has been formed to run from
Marseilles to the River Plate, and another between the United States and
Brazil, the latter with a subsidy from these two Governments, which
cannot fail to be mutually advantageous, and to promote the great object
of emigration. Altogether a very large amount of capital is employed in
linking this portion of the old world and the new by means of steam
navigation. That it will further increase no one can doubt, particularly
should the tide of emigration from Europe set in freely towards those
countries, as I firmly believe will soon be the case.
And now we are moving along towards St. Vincent,—expecting to pass the
island of Madeira to-morrow (24th December), five days out from
Falmouth, almost entirely under steam, a breeze from the north-west,
which favoured us for 24 hours after leaving Falmouth, having gradually
headed us. The speed of the vessel under steam only is 9 to 10 knots,
but if we catch a good trade wind our progress southward ought to be
very rapid. The City of Limerick is an excellent sea boat and all is
very comfortable on board. My order of proceeding this time will still
be something in the narrative form, as more adapted to the task I have
set myself of recording the progress made, and the changes that have
taken place since my last short visit to South America in 1853.
_December 24th._—Passed close to the westward of Madeira, the island
being enveloped in dense masses of black clouds, which poured forth
their liquid streams, forming some dozen cascades of all sizes, one
being conspicuous, reaching from the very top of the mountain down to
the sea. No one would imagine the beauty and fertility of this island to
judge from its western aspect, so different from the south-eastern side,
which is well cultivated, and presents very pleasing views as you
approach in that direction the Bay of Funchal. Madeira has changed very
little I believe of late years, nor is it likely to do so with absurd
quarantine laws in existence, which prevent vessels calling, and limits
the number of visitors. The cultivation of sugar cane succeeded that of
the vine, after the destruction of the latter, about the time of my
former visit to the island, but to the detriment of its sanatory
condition, as the refuse canes were allowed to rot, and impregnated the
atmosphere offensively; otherwise, in its former glory of vines and fig
trees, the island was a little garden of Hesperides. Now that real
Madeira wine has become a scarce commodity connoisseurs praise it
extensively, and it is to be hoped a few years will enable the island
again to supply a genuine article instead of the spurious trash commonly
sold under the name of Madeira wine. The real thing is only to be found
in choice old cellars, and no doubt a glass of it is a very great treat.
_Christmas Day, 1867._—Spent this day on the “deep blue sea,” with a
steady north-east trade blowing, which carries us swiftly along, and, if
all goes well, we shall reach St. Vincent on Saturday by daylight, so as
to get into the harbour and coal during the night. Nine days from
Falmouth will be a very good passage. The weather has become warm, with
bright sunny days and starlight nights, the days lengthening as we
proceed southward. Certainly the change from an English winter is very
sensibly felt, and must exercise a beneficial influence on the human
frame. All traces of sea sickness have vanished from those of the
passengers who were afflicted with it during the first few days, and
they are now on deck, basking in the sunshine, but they will soon
require the protection of awnings, as we shall then be within the
tropics. Different opinions exist as to the comparative comfort of the
paddle-wheel and screw. I prefer the latter, irrespective of its
economy, as advantage can be taken of every favouring breeze, and except
with the wind right aft, a screw steamer is steadier than a paddle wheel
one. Many object to the continual thud of the screw and to the tremulous
motion of the ship, but the latter is less felt in screw steamers than
formerly, from the application of improved machinery and the placing of
the screw well down in the water. On the other hand, the continual
plunging of paddle wheels is tiresome, and they keep up a certain amount
of spray which is not experienced with the screw. It is quite true that
a ship is a thing “you never can be quiet in,” whether propelled merely
by sails, by paddle, or by screw—as everyone knows who has had
experience, but this does not prevent sleep, or indulgence at times in
that _dolce far niente_ which is supposed to belong only to dwellers on
land, under the soothing influence of an Italian sky. After all, how
much we are indebted to steam, not only for comfort, but for our
knowledge of distant countries. I remember several voyages made to
Brazil in my early days, when 20 to 30 days were often taken to
accomplish what we did yesterday in five days,—namely, passing the
island of Madeira to gain the north-east trades.
_St. Vincent._—Saturday evening, the 28th December, brought us safely
into Porto Grande, the great coaling harbour for steamers bound to the
South Atlantic, and where as many as twenty steamers a month are now
coaled from the coaling establishment of Mr. Miller (also her Majesty's
Consul for the Cape Verde Islands), who has at great expense built a
high and low level pier, with large coal stores, a number of iron
lighters and screw tugs which are employed to tow the coal barges
alongside the steamers; in fact, it is impossible for anything to be
more complete than the coaling arrangements here, which admit of sending
off about 700 tons a day. Three vessels had to be coaled during Sunday,
and two got away by night—ourselves, and a French steamer, bound from
Marseilles to Brazil and the River Plate, with about 550 emigrants on
board, chiefly for the River. We left, to complete her coaling the next
day, the splendid new steamer the Sumatra, Captain Brown, belonging to
the Pacific and Oriental Company, bound out to India, to take up her
station between Bombay and Suez; she is 2,500 tons, and 500 horse power,
both built by Denny Brothers, of Dumbarton. She has accommodation of the
most luxurious kind for 150 first-class passengers, and is equipped in a
most perfect manner. St. Vincent is her only coaling port between
England and Bombay, and this was merely a matter of precaution, as she
had on board sufficient to take her to India. A Russian screw corvette
with a number of training cadets on board was also at anchor in the Bay
when we arrived, but she sailed away southward about noon on Sunday.
With the increasing demand for steam traffic to the southern hemisphere,
the importance of Porto Grande as a coaling station cannot be overrated.
We expected to have picked up some news from Brazil and the River Plate,
but unfortunately the Royal Mail Company's steamer Seine (overdue a
week) had not arrived, and various surmises were raised as to the cause
of this unusual delay, which we shall only learn later on. The Brazil
and River Plate Service, both by the above company and the French
Messageries Imperiales, has been for many years performed with great
regularity. Owing to the many steamers calling at St. Vincent, a good
supply of fresh meat, fruit, eggs, &c., can now be obtained there,
brought from the neighbouring islands, as St. Vincent itself continues
as barren of verdure as ever. The town has extended itself somewhat,
several new public buildings having been erected, including a Custom
House, and some pretty cottages on the hill overlooking the harbour, for
the use of Mr. Miller's numerous establishments. For the information of
such of my readers as may not be conversant with the Cape Verde Islands,
I reprint my remarks upon them contained in my former work already
alluded to, as I shall also continue to do in other places, for a
similar reason, besides the additional one of diffusing information as
to countries with which we are so intimately linked by commercial and
political ties. A submarine cable, connecting these Islands with Madeira
and Lisbon, would be very useful, and will most probably come in time,
as a link in the chain of our communications with South America and the
coast of Africa. Its existence would shorten the time of receiving and
transmitting news between England and Brazil very considerably, and the
evils arising from such an event as the detention or loss of the Seine
be greatly mitigated:—
The Cape Verds consist of seven principal islands, and were
tolerably populous, but of late years have been subjected to a
continuous emigration to South America and the West Indies, where,
like the hardy mountaineers from Madeira, they are found most useful
in tilling the soil, and in other laborious occupations; thus
demonstrating the fallacy of the old notion, that laziness is the
predominant element in the Spanish and Portuguese idiosyncrasy. What
appears to be a present disadvantage, in regard to this human flight
from the Verds, may prove beneficial hereafter, when the Ilheos (as
they are called) return to their homes, possessed of a little money
wherewith to improve their social and moral condition. The islands
produce wine, barilla, large quantities of orchilla weed, and
cochineal, the cultivation of which is rapidly forming a more and
more considerable item of export. Steam navigation will ere long
bring them into much closer commercial contact with the world, and
enhance the appreciation of their products and natural advantage.
The climate is fine, though subject to occasional high temperature
and frequent droughts. Despite the name Verds, suggestive of
Arcadian animation, nothing can be more desolate than the appearance
of the islands, as approached from the sea; bold, high rocks,
against which the surge breaks violently, with mountains towering in
the clouds, are general characteristics, to which those of the
island of St. Vincent offer no exception. On our arrival the weather
was thick, with drizzling rain, as we made Porto Grande; and only
cleared up in time to enable us to see Bird Island, a most
remarkable sugar-loaf rock, standing right in the entrance of the
bay, after passing which we reached the anchorage ground in a few
minutes. A more convenient little harbour can hardly be imagined,
being nearly surrounded with hills (or mountains as they may be
called), which protect it from all winds save the westward, where
Bird Island stands as a huge beacon, most admirably adapted for a
lighthouse, and on which it is to be hoped one will soon be placed.
There is deep water close to the shore on most sides of the bay,
that where the town is built being the shallowest; and here some
wooden jetties are run out, having very extensive coal and patent
fuel _depôts_ close at hand where these combustibles are put into
iron lighters, and sent off to the vessels. So beautifully clear is
the water in the bay that you can see the bottom at a depth of from
twenty to thirty feet, literally alive with fish of all kinds, but
for which the people seem to care very little, either for home
consumption or export, though there is no doubt that, in the latter
direction, a large business might be done with profitable results.
Porto Grande must become a most important coaling station, situated
as it is midway between Europe and South America, and close to the
African coast. Several important steam companies have already
adopted it, viz., the Royal Mail (Brazil), the General Screw, the
Australian, as also the South American, and General Steam Navigation
Company, whilst occasional steamers are, likewise, glad to touch at
it. At the period at which I am writing, the Great Britain was the
last that coaled here, on her way to Australia. In order to meet
this increased demand, a proportionate degree of activity and
exertion is observable onshore; and a large number of iron lighters,
carrying from fifteen to forty tons each, are now in constant
requisition, loaded, and ready to be taken alongside the steamers
the instant they cast anchor. Unfortunately there is a very poor
supply of water, the want of it having been the occasion of frequent
emigration in the history of the islands; but it is understood to be
attainable at a slight expense; and a small outlay conjointly made
by the steam companies might not only procure a plentiful provision
of this all-necessary element, but also other conveniences,
essential to the comfort of passengers. There is no doubt that, as
the place progresses, supplies of meat, fruit, and vegetables will
be forwarded thither from the neighbouring islands, which are so
productive that there is a considerable export of corn; and the
cattle are numerous. Until lately fowls were only a penny a piece;
and turtles abound. Hitherto there has been no regular marketable
demand for such things; but one, and a large one too, is henceforth
established, from the causes assigned, and will doubtless be
regularly and economically supplied. The labourers here are chiefly
free blacks and Kroomen, from the coast of Africa, most of whom
speak English, and chatter away at a great rate, as they work in
gangs, with a kind of boatswain over them, who uses a whistle to
direct their toil—the movements of all the race of Ham to the days
of Uncle Tom, being seemingly susceptible of regulation to musical
noise of some sort or other; whether the “concord of sweet sounds,”
or what would appear to be such to more refined ears, does not
greatly matter.
But for want of vegetation in its neighbourhood, a more picturesque
little bay than Porto Grande can hardly be conceived. Towering a
short distance above the town, is a kind of table mountain, some
2,500 feet high; and at the opposite side, forming the south-west
entrance, is another very lofty one, remarkable as representing the
colossal profile of a man lying on his back, _à la_ Prometheus. He
has his visage towards heaven, wherein there are generally soaring
vultures enough to devour him up were he a trifle less tender than
volcanic granite. The features are perfect, even to the eyebrows;
and a very handsome profile it makes, though it does not appear that
any tropical Æschylus has yet converted the material to the humblest
legendary, much less epic, purpose. On the shore ground, forming the
right side of the bay, looking towards the town, is a neat little
monument, erected to the lamented lady of Colonel Cole, who died
here on her way home from India. The spot where she lies is, from
its quietude and seclusion, most meet for such a resting-place,
there being a small, conical hill behind, with a cottage or two
near, and a sprinkling of vegetation on the low ground between,
serving to “keep her memory green” in the mind of many an ocean
voyager in his halt at this half-way house between the younger and
the elder world.
This little town was thrown back sadly by the epidemic which
afflicted it in 1850 and decimated the population. During its
continuance Mr. Miller, one of the few English residents, did so
much in assisting the inhabitants as to elicit from the late Queen
of Portugal the honour of a knighthood, in one of the first orders
in her dominions. It requires no small degree of patience and
philanthropy to aid the development of a place like this, labouring,
as it does, under such great natural difficulties, and where
everything has to be brought from a distance, there not being a tree
or a blade of grass to be seen—nothing but dry, arid sand, or a
burnt-up kind of soil. Undoubtedly, the heat is very great at times;
and there are about three months of blowing, rainy weather, which is
the only period when vessels might be subjected to inconvenience
whilst coaling, as the southerly winds drive up a good deal of sea
into the bay. There is an English Consul resident here, Mr. Rendall,
who has done much to assist in bringing these islands into notice,
and into comparative civilization; and, by so doing, has many times
over reimbursed this country in the cost of his stipend of £400 a
year, saying nothing of the services he has performed to shipping,
in the ordinary discharge of his duties.
Cape Verds are a very numerous family of islands, called after a
cape on the African coast (originally named Cabo Verde, or Green
Cape, by the Portuguese), to which they lie contiguous, though at a
considerable distance from each other in some cases. All are of
volcanic formation—one, that of Fogo, or Fuego, once very celebrated
as being visible, especially in the night time, at an immense
distance at sea. The islands generally do not possess any very
attractive points, being unlike Madeira and the Canaries in this
respect, as well as in extent of population, that of the latter
being four or five times more numerous than the others—say about
200,000 in one, 40,000 in the other case, though some statements
make the inhabitants of the Verds considerably more. The islands are
occasionally subject to shocks of earthquakes; and there was rather
a strong one at Porto Grande the night before we left, supposed on
board our vessel to be thunder, from the noise it made, though we
were not aware until next day that a shock had been felt on shore.
The chief product is salt, a valuable article for vessels trading to
South America, though it is here manufactured by the somewhat
primitive process of letting the sea-water into the lowlands, where
the sun evaporates it. Though Porto Grande, in St. Vincent, is the
great place for shipping, and as such almost the only place of
interest for passengers in transit, Ribera Grande, in St. Jago, the
principal island, and most southerly of the group, is the chief
town, though it is at Porto Playa (often touched at by ships on the
Indian voyage) that the Governor General resides, particularly in
the dry season. The island second in importance, in point of size,
is St. Nicholas, where are some small manufactories, in the shape of
cotton-stuffs, leather, stockings, and other matters. The orchilla
weed, however, is the great object of governmental interest, and its
monopoly is said to yield some £60,000 per annum; the same wise
policy that grasps at that interdicting the manufacture of wine,
though grapes grow in profusion, and are of excellent quality for
the production of a very acceptable beverage.
_December 31st, 1867._—The last day of the old year is an event that
calls for reflection and particularly at sea, when the mind is generally
more open than elsewhere to receive impressions, and free to take into
review the past—to enquire how the time has been spent. Few of us,
probably, can answer this question satisfactorily, but at all events it
is desirable to make the enquiry. There is no postman's knock at the
door, no friends to see, nor any to seek us out. Our little world is the
ship on which we are sailing, and those within it, the greater part of
whom have been utter strangers to each other previous to embarkation.
Selfishness under such circumstances finds its level, or is confined
within very narrow bounds, and a common instinct draws every one
together, until at the end of the voyage, when those who are only
passengers part, and go each on his several mission, few in all
likelihood ever to meet again in their various walks in life. Most leave
friends behind, whom they look forward to rejoining, or they have
friends to welcome them in the new countries to which they are speeding
their way. The great ocean brings strikingly home to us the wondrous
works of the Almighty Ruler of the Universe, and the littleness of man
himself. Again, we are apt to forget the immensity of the ocean, which,
as compared with the land, is computed at 145¾ million of statute miles
against 51 million square statute miles of land, or a total of both of
196¾ millions. A little incident occurred this morning in our meeting
the screw steamer Uruguay (which signalised twenty days out from the
River Plate), one of the Liverpool line of steamers, making her way to
St. Vincent to coal, and she will, no doubt, report us at home. Time did
not afford opportunity for exchanging news, which would have been very
acceptable on both sides. We also passed an American ship steering
northward, being now in the track of vessels homeward bound, 10° 30´
north latitude and 26° 30´ east longitude; a fine steady breeze driving
us, with the aid of the screw, fully eleven knots an hour.
_January 4th, 1868._—We have crossed the line, gone through the
variables, and are in the south-east trades. The air is cool and
pleasant, and the ship making nearly twelve miles an hour, with a smooth
sea and little motion—the perfection of sailing. There is a freshness
about the Southern hemisphere which I have always enjoyed. Steady
breezes and a clear sky, with light fleecy clouds. We passed several
vessels yesterday standing to the northward, amongst them a fine Yankee
screw corvette, which hoisted her number, but she was not in our signal
book. Less than another week of this weather will take us into Rio de
Janeiro, in somewhat over 20 days, which will be a very good passage,
and we have certainly been very much favoured in having fair, moderate
weather, with scarcely any rain, and no squalls. The great advantage of
steam over sailing ships is not only much quicker passages, but running
out of calms or variable winds, and making a straight course to the
point of destination.
_January 10th, 1868._—We made Cape Frio light, off Rio de Janeiro, about
midnight, and came into harbour early this morning, twenty-one and a
half days from Falmouth. After the usual formalities in connection with
the health and custom-house departments, we steamed up to the coal
island, and were soon moored alongside, ready for coaling and
discharging cargo. There were fewer ships in the bay than I ever
remember to have seen. Her Majesty's store-ship Egmont was lying there,
and one or two other vessels of war. A splendid Spanish frigate, the
Blanca, which had participated in the bombardment of Valparaiso, steamed
out of harbour as we came in, but whither bound no one could say. On
going on shore I found the landing place not much improved, and the
custom-house formalities had increased in rigour, extending even to a
charge on the small quantity of luggage required for a change whilst on
shore. It is a mistake in an enlightened country like Brazil to subject
passengers to such absurd regulations, which can bring in very little
revenue and get the country a bad name. In other respects little or no
restriction is experienced in going to or from the ship, either day or
night. We found the news from the seat of war unsatisfactory as regards
its progress, and, what was worse, we learned that the cholera was
raging at Buenos Ayres, vessels from the River Plate being placed in
quarantine on arrival at Rio; but the latter city was healthy,
notwithstanding the great heat which, during the two days we remained in
harbour, was most intense, the thermometer in the shade being over 90°.
Working all night enabled the steamer to be ready to start again on
Sunday morning, the 12th January, when we again sailed from Rio on our
way to the River.
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Footnote 1:
Since writing the above, Messrs. Tait have parted with their exclusive
interest in the line to a limited company, with a very influential
board of direction, and of which Mr. Peter Tait is himself the
chairman. No doubt this will lead to a yet more vigorous prosecution
of an enterprise which has already and thus early secured so large a
share of commercial patronage and support.
THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO.
Seeing the accounts at Rio were not encouraging, I was advised to delay
my trip southward, but as the River Plate was my ultimate destination,
and my business pressing, I was desirous to reach Buenos Ayres as
quickly as possible, taking Rio Janeiro on my return. So I continued on
board the steamer, which left Rio on Sunday morning, the 12th January,
1868, and we came to anchor in Monte Video harbour at 1 p.m. on the
16th—a very good passage of four days and a few hours. The weather had
been hot during the passage, giving us a foretaste of what we might look
for here. The health inspector did not come off to us for three hours, a
very annoying delay after the captain of a steamer has done his best to
get quickly to his port, and to whom, as well as to his owners, hours
are of consequence; but not so to officials in these countries. I
believe I surmised correctly that the health officer was at dinner when
we arrived, that he would take his siesta, and then come to look after
us. As it was then getting past business hours, I preferred remaining
cool and quiet on board the ship, but several of our passengers went on
shore, and passed the night there, as it is difficult to get off after
dark. The budget of news we received from the agents, who came on board
after the health visit, made me wish I had taken the wise advice of Rio
friends. The cholera was raging at Buenos Ayres and throughout the
Argentine Republic, and appeared to be bad enough at Monte Video, in
addition to which a revolution had broken out at Santa Fé against the
Government, the rebels having actually got possession of Rosario, as
well as some portion of the railway, whose metals they had partly torn
up at one of the bridges, throwing them into the river below. It is
difficult to account for this kind of wanton mischief, unless it was to
show their contempt for civilized means of transit, for having reached
Rosario, their policy should have been to keep the line open as a means
of retreat in case of need, and then to have taken up the rails to
impede troops who might be following them. I found Mr. and Mrs.
Wheelwright at the Oriental Hotel, Monte Video, a new and handsome
building erected since my last visit, and worthy any city in Europe, but
unfortunately several of the inmates died of cholera there and it was
afterwards deserted. The Oriental was full when we arrived, but we found
comfortable quarters at the Gran Hotel Americano, also a large and
handsome edifice lately built, nor can anything more strongly mark the
advance of Monte Video than these two hotels in addition to those
previously existing. The impressions conveyed in my former narrative as
to the development of Monte Video were favourable, but I hardly expected
to see the place grown half as large again since that time, which
certainly is the case. Building of late years has taken extraordinary
proportions here, and the price paid for choice spots in the city is
something fabulous. Then again the streets have been all paved and
flagged—roughly enough it must be confessed, but still they appear to
answer the purpose for the peculiar description of traffic over them,
and are a great improvement upon the sand and mud which existed before.
During the few days I remained at Monte Video, everything was in a very
miserable state, the mortality increasing and the telegrams from Buenos
Ayres quite awful. I therefore resolved to return to Rio Janeiro, and
wait a more favourable moment for prosecuting my mission. The heat was
intense, and the minds of people so preoccupied with the pestilence as
to render it impossible to follow the object of my mission with any
chance of success. The City of Limerick came up from Buenos Ayres on the
morning of the 24th of January, and was released from quarantine in the
afternoon, when Captain Peters came on shore, and his report confirmed
my previous views as to returning to Rio; so at 5 p.m. I went on board
with him. We got under weigh at sunset, with a fresh breeze, and,
passing Flores light, were off Maldonado light about 3 p.m.—a nasty
navigation, with the island of Lobos dangerously near, on which there
ought also to be a light. Daylight took us to the open sea, and four and
a half days' steaming brought us again into Rio harbour on the morning
of Wednesday, the 5th of February, when we were put to quarantine in
what is called Three Fathom Bay, where we remained until the third
morning, when we were released and steamed to the coal wharf.
* * * * *
Precisely three months after my first arrival in Rio, I left it again to
return to the River Plate, whence the pestilence had departed and things
resumed more or less their usual appearance. Monte Video had, however,
been the scene of a dreadful tragedy—the murder of General Flores in
open day—and the subsequent terrible retribution which followed that
catastrophe. A gloom hung over the country, heightened by the impending
bank crisis, and it seemed as if the spirit of evil had taken possession
of the place. Whatever may have been the faults or errors of General
Flores, he deserved a better fate at the hands of his countrymen. In
forcing himself into power he only followed in the footsteps of others
who had resorted to this unconstitutional mode of proceeding. During his
dictatorship the country was perfectly tranquil and highly prosperous,
nor was a single life sacrificed by him, although he knew he had many
secret enemies. His personal courage was undoubted and evinced in many a
bloody encounter in Paraguay, where he appeared to wear a charmed life,
and had he been at all prepared the assassins might have found the old
man more than a match for them. Altogether, this sad event has created a
feeling in Monte Video which it will take long to recover from, nor is
any confidence felt in the ability of the present rulers to overcome the
difficulties of their position. It is a great pity so fine a country and
so fair a city should be sacrificed to objects of mere personal
ambition, and be the sport of every discontented chief or partisan who
chooses to set himself in array against the Government; but
unfortunately this is too much the case, nor do the people themselves
rise to put down such a state of anarchy.
In alluding to the new buildings erected at Monte Video I omitted the
Bolsa or Exchange, which is quite an ornament to the city, with its
light, highly ornamented façade. The interior is of a quadrilateral
form, providing a spacious hall where the business of the place is
carried on, with brokers' offices on the ground floor, the upper storey
being devoted to a tribunal of commerce and other public purposes. The
cost of the building is stated at about 160,000 hard dollars, or £32,000
sterling, an instance of public spirit hardly to be found elsewhere in
South America.
The only thing wanting to Monte Video is business, in which respect the
contrast with Buenos Ayres is very much in favour of the latter.
Nevertheless, the banks have gone into considerable extravagance in the
way of architecture, the Italian Bank being conspicuous by a superfluity
of marble. Indeed, the facility for issuing notes has evidently led to
expenditure in “bricks and mortar” to an extent that must have greatly
embarrassed the managers of these institutions when called upon to meet
their paper in gold.
As to the cause of the money crisis there cannot be two opinions. In the
first place, Government was wrong in allowing private issues of notes,
and in the second place, in interfering when it came to a question of
the banks meeting their notes in gold. A “forced currency,” as it was
then called, was sure to lead to a depreciation in the value of the
paper and only postponed the evil day. It was a curious sight to see a
guard of soldiers with fixed bayonets on duty round the doors of the
Italian Bank, and a crowd of people waiting outside to receive specie
payment of their notes. This process had already shut up several of the
banks, and there was little hope of saving the Italian Bank, although
great efforts were being made by the mercantile body to do so, as from
the large number of Italian tradesmen doing business with the bank
serious results might attend the closing of its doors. The wisest course
would have been for all the banks to have followed in the wake of Mauá
and Co. and closed their doors when they found themselves unable to meet
the pressure for gold. This would have brought about some remedial
action on the part of Government with a view to self-preservation.
Amongst other public improvements at Monte Video is a large market, a
tramway for a few miles out of the city, and the commencement of a
railway intended eventually to reach Durazno, but at present only a few
miles can be completed, owing to the want of capital. Unfortunately, the
Government is not in a position to assist any enterprise of this kind,
spite of the large amount of Brazilian gold that has been poured into
the place during the war. Altogether, Monte Video has an ordeal to go
through that will require time and patience on the part of those who may
have to conduct its affairs.
The Bay presents its usual animated appearance as regards the collection
of ships and steamers, and a large sprinkling of foreign men-of-war,
whose services have been much called into requisition of late, in order
to protect foreign property; but in other respects there is a total
absence of vitality or of actual business.
THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO.
It cannot be said in this case, as in most others, that
“'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view;”—
for the nearer you approach this far-famed city, the more sensible are
you to the beauties it unfolds. Strangers are always struck with the
singularly picturesque appearance of the land approaching Rio de
Janeiro, but once fairly in the bay they are bewildered at its great
extent, surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains of every possible
form, shape, and size, most of them clothed in luxuriant verdure to the
summit. No picture or representation I have seen of the Bay of Rio does
justice to the splendid panorama its scenery presents. Even those who
have often approached it from the sea, so far from being tired of
gazing, not only recognise old familiar points, but discover some new
feature in the fairy-like landscape that had before escaped their
notice. It varies very much according to the light and shade,—sunrise,
noonday, and sunset each possessing peculiar marks of delighting beauty.
In my former description of Rio occurs the following passage:—