second course remove. Make half a pound of puff paste, give it nine
rolls, rolling it the last time to the thickness of a penny-piece, have
ready blanched and chopped half a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a
basin with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or
a little more if required; spread it over the paste the thickness of a
shilling, and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a
half in length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon a
baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown color, in a moderate
oven, dress them on a stiff border of any kind of stiff jam or
marmalade, so as to form a large crown according to the size you require
it; then fill the interior with vanilla cream, or any other, iced, but
not too hard, and bring it up to a point; the cake may be cut in any
shape you fancy, but never make them too large.
803. _Turban of Pastry._--Observe that any kind of pastry fourrée, as
No. 712, or meringue, No. 711, will, if dished as above, with iced
cream, make a very nice remove.
804. _Custard for Puddings._--Take one pint of milk, to which add the
yolks of two eggs, and beat up, add a quarter of a pound of sugar, half
a saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon and nutmeg, and a bay-leaf. For
mould puddings, the mould should be filled first with the bread, &c.,
and the custard added; should it be wanted alone in glasses, it must
then be put into a saucepan on the fire until it nearly boils, keep
stirring it well during the time.
805. _Batter for Fritters._--Take half a pound of flour, one ounce of
butter, which melt, the whites of three eggs well beaten, half a glass
of beer, and enough water to make a thick batter.
DESSERT.
LETTER No. XVI
MA CHERE ELOISE,--Remembering your admiration of the small dessert
I put on the table at my last birth-day party, you will, I am
confident, feel interested in the description of desserts in
general, and I will give you a few more hints and receipts, which
will tend both to economize as well as gratify the palate and
sight; and very different in style from some of our visitors, who,
though they spend their money freely enough when they give their
Christmas party, but still keep up the old style of covering their
table with dry sweet stuff, and, in the way of fruits, display
oranges in their original golden skin, Ribston pippins in their
mournful ones, American apples with their vermilion cheeks, large
winter pears in their substantial state, the whole ornamented and
crowned with laurel, no doubt to signify their immortality, being
present upon almost every table from year to year, especially the
unsociable pear, which no teeth can ever injure, but, on the
contrary, it may injure the teeth. A very comical friend assured
us, as a fact, that he had met one of the before-mentioned pears in
three different parties in less than a week, having, for
curiosity's sake, engraved his initial with a penknife upon one he
was served with at the first party. "And, talk about pine-apples,"
said he, "many times I have had the pleasure of meeting with the
same, and even as much as twice in less than twelve hours, quite in
a different direction, that is, on a dinner-table in the west-end
about eight in the evening, and, at midnight, on the supper-table
of a civic ball; at dinner being perched on an elevated stand in
the centre of a large wide table, so much out of reach that it
would almost require a small ladder to get at it; and I must say
that every guest present paid due respect to his high position, and
never made an assault, or even an attempt to disturb, much less to
uncrown his fruity majesty, though, now and then, one of the fair
guests, as a compliment, would remark to the amphitrion, that she
never saw in her life a finer pine-apple. 'Very fine, very fine
indeed, madam! will you allow me to offer you part of an orange?'
'Not any more, I thank you, sir,' being the reply."
On the supper table this aristocratic and inaccessible pine still
holds its kingly rank, and is still proudly perched on the top of a
sideboard, surrounded by Portugal or Rhenish grapes, and to prevent
its dethronement by removing the grapes the intelligent waiter has
carefully tied it to the ornament that supports it. Our friend, who
is a literary gentleman, has promised to write a small brochure, to
be called the 'Memoirs of a Pineapple in London,' which I am
confident, will not fail of being very interesting, having had the
advantage of mixing in so many different societies.
I know, dearest, what will be your feeling after the perusal of the
above, that I have given vent to a little scandal; but it is the
truth, and of almost daily occurrence, so that there is no mystery
about it. I do not mean that it is very general, but is certainly
often practised; for my part, you know my style: I never attempt to
astonish my guests with extensive wonders of nature and art in any
shape of eatable, but simply follow the middle prices, by which I
always can procure the best quality of article in comestibles; and
nothing pleases me more when I give a party than that every dish on
the table should be partaken of, and still more so when entirely
eaten. I do not approve of meanness; though a great economist, I
abhor it as much as I do extravagance; and we never, I assure you,
give a single party without being perfectly satisfied that it does
not interfere with our daily comforts, that is, as regards
financial matters. For dessert in summer I confine it entirely to
fresh fruit, compotes, ices, and a few almond cakes, and Savoy
biscuits. Fruits, preserves, oranges, compotes, and biscuits in
winter.
The list of names I here inclose to you consists of moderately
priced articles, and will enable you to make a good appearance for
your dessert, and at a trifling expense.
The first thing I wish you to be initiated in is, what is called in
France "compote," which may be made almost from any kind of fruits,
especially apples, pears, apricots, plums, greengages, peaches,
cherries, gooseberry, oranges, &c. It was on my second visit to
Havre that I took lessons in confectionery; I paid as much as ten
shillings per lesson to M. Bombe Glacé, that being the "nom de
guerre" of the first confectioner there; but you know, dearest, how
quick I am learning, especially anything in the way of cookery. I
really must say I do love cooking, so you may fancy that the clever
artist, Monsieur le Confiseur, had not very many of our
demi-souvereign, as he called them, from us; my Mr. B. thought at
the time that it was quite ridiculous and extravagant to pay so
much for a trifle like that; but let me tell you, dear, he had not
then tasted them; but now all the wall-and tree-fruits from our
garden, if I were to follow entirely his taste, would be converted
into compote, he being so remarkably fond of it.
COMPOTE.
Procure a very clean tin stewpan or a small sugar-pan; it being
more preferable for boiling sugar, why I cannot tell, never having
asked the reason, being so anxious to know other things which I
thought more serviceable. Since I have tried it in a common
stewpan, it has answered very well; and knowing by experience that
your culinary laboratory is still in its innocent infancy, you
might be prevented from making an immediate experiment by waiting
till you could get one; you may use that three-pint size stewpan
for it, which I lent you for a pattern about three weeks ago, and
after which I shall feel extremely gratified by its reappearance on
my kitchen shelf at No. 5, being out of the middle row of them,
because every time I enter my kitchen it puts me in mind of a very
pretty woman minus one of her front teeth.
Excuse me if I claim it of you, but I want to teach you punctuality
as well as economy.
806. _Winter Pears._--To put an end to its long and hard existence, I
would cut it into six or eight pieces lengthwise, peel and cut out the
cores, giving them a nice shape; then put them into a stewpan, with a
quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill of port wine, the thin rind of a
lemon, a little cinnamon, and half a pint of water; let them simmer
gently about an hour or until tender; when done, put them into a basin,
reduce the syrup until thickish if required, and pour over; when cold
they are ready to serve.
A little prepared cochineal mixed with the syrup very much improves
their appearance. A dish composed half of these and half of the white
has a very pretty appearance. By placing a layer of marmalade among
them, at the bottom of the dish, you may dish them in crown, or any
shape you like.
807. _Compote of Peaches._--Put half a pound of lump sugar (broken into
small pieces) into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pint of water, which
set upon the fire to boil until forming a thickish syrup; you have
previously cut four ripe peaches in halves, lay them carefully in the
boiling syrup to simmer a couple of minutes, then carefully remove them
with a colander-spoon on to a hair-sieve to drain, when remove the
skins, and dress the peaches neatly upon your dessert-dish; reduce the
syrup until of a good consistency, and when cold pour it over, and they
are ready to serve.
808. _Compote of Apples._--Procure six nice ripe apples, but not too
large, which peel, cut in halves, and cut out the cores, rub each piece
over with a little lemon, and put them into boiling syrup made as last
directed, but with the juice of a lemon, and the rind cut into small
fillets added; let the apple stew until tender, but not broken, when
drain them upon a sieve, reduce the syrup; and when both are cold, dress
the apple neatly upon your dish, and pour the syrup over. A little green
angelique, cut in various shapes, will make a pretty ornament on any
white compote.
809. _Compote of small Apples, served whole._--Select nine small golden
pippins, each as nearly as possible of an equal size, and with a long
round vegetable cutter, of the size of a sixpenny piece, cut out the
cores, then peel them very thin and smooth, rub their surface with lemon
juice, and throw them into a basin of spring water; have ready boiling
half a pint of syrup, made as before directed, to which add the rind of
a lemon (cut into thin strips), and the juice, lay in the apples, which
let simmer very gently until quite tender, when drain them upon a
hair-sieve, and reduce the syrup until thickish; when quite cold, dress
the apples upon your dish, five at the bottom, three upon them, and one
upon the top; when ready to serve, pour the syrup over.
810. _Compote of Green Apricots._--Have a pottle of green apricots, from
which pick off all the stalks, and throw them into a stewpan containing
a quart of boiling water, and let them boil very fast for ten minutes,
and drain them upon a sieve: have ready half a pint of syrup made as
before directed, in which boil them until tender, but not to break, and
thicken the syrup, pour the whole into a basin until quite cold; should
the syrup then be too thin, strain it off into the stewpan to reduce to
a proper consistency, pouring it again over the apricots when quite
cold. Dish tastefully.
811. _Compote of Greengages._--Procure twelve greengages, not quite
ripe, each of which cut into halves; have ready boiling half a pint of
syrup, as before directed, into which put half the fruit, let it simmer
a couple of minutes, then remove them with a colander-spoon, draining
them upon a sieve; then put in the remainder, with which proceed in the
same manner; remove the skins, put the fruit into a basin, reduce the
syrup until thickish, and when cold, pour it over the fruit, which is
then ready to serve.
Any description of plums may be dressed in precisely the same method.
812. _Compote of Apricots._--Procure six very fine ripe apricots, which
divide into halves; have ready half a pint of boiling syrup reduced
quite thick, in which let them simmer about a minute, when pour the
whole into a basin until cold; should the fruit not be quite ripe, they
would require longer time to simmer. I frequently break the stones and
blanch the kernels to add to the compote; they are a great improvement,
also, to cherries and plums.
813. _Compote of Cherries._--Take a pound of fine cherries, not too
ripe, and cut away half the stalks with a pair of scissors; have half a
pint of syrup, which boil until very thick, when add half of the
cherries, and boil them two or three minutes, take them out with a
colander-spoon, drain them upon a sieve, and proceed the same with the
remaining half; reduce the syrup until very thick, dress the cherries
pyramidically upon your dish, stalks uppermost, and when the syrup is
cold, pour it over, and serve.
814. _Compote of Oranges._--Make a pint of syrup as before; have six
fine oranges, which skin carefully, scraping off as much of the pith as
possible; divide each orange into eight entire pieces, without breaking
the delicate skin with which they are divided; when the syrup is very
thick, put in the pieces of oranges, which simmer gently for five
minutes, when take them out with a colander-spoon, and drain them upon a
sieve; reduce the syrup very quickly until thickish, and when cold, pour
it over the oranges, which will be then ready to serve. Half the rind of
the oranges, free from pith, cut into small fillets, are a great
improvement boiled in the syrup.
815. _Compote of French Plums._--Put half a pound of French plums into
a stewpan, with a gill of water, the same of wine, the rind of half a
lemon cut thin, two cloves, and a good spoonful of sugar, let them
simmer about twenty minutes, and when cold take out the lemon and
cloves, and they are ready to serve.
COMPOTES OF FRUIT SIMPLIFIED.
As I usually make them when alone, or, if not, for a very
ceremonious dinner-party. The whole of the following must be done
over a very slow fire.
816. _Pears._--Cut six ripe middling-sized pears in halves, peel neatly,
cut out the cores, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a
pound of powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon, the thin rind cut into
strips, and a very little drop of water, set them upon the fire, stewing
them until tender; they will form their own syrup; put them in a basin
until cold, when they are ready to serve.
817. _Pippins._--Peel and cut four apples into quarters, take out the
cores, and stew them as directed for pears, but using the rind of an
orange instead of the rind of a lemon.
818. _Oranges._--Prepare four oranges as directed (No. 814), which put
into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and the
juice of another orange; set them upon the fire, and when the syrup
becomes sufficiently thick to adhere to the pieces of orange, they are
done; when cold, dress them in a circle upon your dish, with strips of
angelica between each.
819. _Apricots._--Cut eight unripe apricots into quarters, which put
into a stewpan, with four ounces of sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a
drop of sherry, set them upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round
occasionally, until the apricots are tender, but not broken; a very few
minutes would be sufficient to stew them, and when cold, they are ready
to serve.
For Peaches, proceed exactly the same; but if too ripe, they must be
done as directed for compote of peaches.
820. _Greengages and other Plums._--Put twelve into a stewpan with a
quarter of a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon and a little drop of
water, set them over the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally
until the fruit is tender, but not mashed; when cold, dress them in
pyramid, and pour the syrup over.
821. _Cherries._--Cut the stalks of a pound of cherries rather short,
and put the fruit into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar and
the juice of a lemon; place them over the fire (occasionally shaking the
pan round), letting them simmer about two minutes, when take them out
with a colander-spoon, and put them into a basin until cold, reduce the
syrup, to which add sufficient isinglass to set it as a jelly, and pour
it upon a large plate until set, when dress the cherries pyramidically,
just dip the bottom of the plate containing the syrup into warm water,
and turn it as a jelly over the cherries.
822. _Green Gooseberries._--Put a pint of green gooseberries into a
stewpan with two ounces of sugar and a little sherry, place them over a
sharp fire, as the quicker they cook the better color they will keep;
when tender but not broken, pour them into a basin, and when cold they
are ready to serve.
823. _Red Rhubarb._--The small forced rhubarb (Mitchell's Royal Albert)
is by far the best. Cut about half a pound of it into pieces half an
inch in length, which put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of
powdered sugar and a wineglassful of water; set it over a sharp fire,
occasionally shaking the stewpan round, and when quite tender pour it
into a basin until cold; when it is ready to serve, should the syrup be
too thin, add sufficient isinglass to set it, and when cold dress it
pyramidically upon your dish.
824. _Currants and Raspberries._--Pick the stalks from a pint of
currants, which put into a stewpan with half a pint of raspberries and a
quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; set them upon the fire, shaking
the stewpan round occasionally until boiling, when pour them into a
basin to cool. Should the syrup be too thin, which would be the case if
the fruit is too ripe, drain the fruit from it, reduce it by boiling,
and when cold, pour it again over the fruit, which will then be ready to
serve.
825. _Royal Iceing for Cakes._--Have ready a pound of the best white
sugar, which pound well and sift through a silk sieve, put it into a
basin with the whites of three eggs, beat well together with a wooden
spoon, adding the juice of half a lemon, keep beating well until it
becomes very light and hangs in flakes from the spoon (if it should be
rather too stiff in mixing, add a little more white of egg, if, on the
contrary, too soft, a little more sugar), it is then ready for use where
required.
826. _Chocolate Iceing for Cakes_ is made similar to the last, but when
finished have ready a piece of the common chocolate, which melt in a
stewpan over the fire, keeping it stirred; when quite melted stir some
of it in with the iceing until you have obtained the color required,
moistening the iceing with a little more white of egg, and use where
directed.
827. _Sugar in Grains_ is made by pounding a quantity of sugar in a
mortar, and sifting off all the fine through a hair-sieve, then again
what remains in the sieve put into a rather coarse wire sieve, and that
which passes through is what is meant by the above term.
828. _How to give color to Sugar._--Prepare about half a pound of the
sugar as in the last, which put upon a baking-sheet; have a spoonful of
the essence of spinach, which stir in with the sugar until every gram is
stained, then put them in a warmish place to dry, but not too hot: to
color them red, use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine,
instead of the spinach, and proceed exactly the same: sugar may be made
of other colors by the use of indigo, rouge, saffron, &c.; but not being
partial to such a variety of coloring, I have merely given the red and
the green, which, with the white, I consider to be sufficient for any of
the purposes for which they are used.
829. _Sugar of Vanilla._--Chop a stick of well-frosted vanilla very
small, and put it into a mortar, with half a pound of lump sugar, pound
the whole well together in a mortar, sift through a hair sieve, and put
by in a bottle or jar, corking it up tight, and using where required.
830. _Sugar of Lemon._--Rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large
piece of sugar, and as it discolors the part upon which it is rubbed
scrape it off with a knife; when you have obtained a sufficient
quantity, dry a little in the screen, and bottle for use where required.
Orange sugar may be made in the same manner, substituting very red
oranges for the lemons.
831. _How to make clear Sugar._--Break three pounds of fine white sugar,
the hardest and closest grained is the best, put it into a sugar-pan,
with three pints of clear spring water, set over a sharp fire, and when
beginning to boil place it at the corner to simmer, and squeeze in the
juice of half a lemon, skim well and reduce to two thirds, it is then
ready to use for jellies.
If not able to obtain the best quality of sugar, it would be necessary
to use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification, by putting
the white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well with a pint of cold
water, add half of it to the sugar, whipping it well in, let simmer,
adding the remainder by degrees whilst simmering, and passing it through
a fine cloth into a basin. The boiling of sugar is divided into seven
different degrees, which may be ascertained by the following
directions:--
The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into it whilst
boiling, turning it over two or three times, if the sugar falls from it
in sheets it has attained the first degree.
The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer, dipping your
finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger into the boiling
sugar, putting your finger and thumb together, and again opening them,
it will form a kind of thread; if it is too weak boil a little longer,
this is the most useful degree for fruit or water ices.
The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and trying
it in the same manner, upon the thread baking, should it form a kind of
pearl, it has attained the above degree; the sugar in boiling would also
be covered with a quantity of small bubbles resembling pearls.
The fourth degree is attained by boiling it still longer, dip a skimmer
into it, turn, take out and blow it hard, when the sugar will form
little bladders and float in the air, this degree is called the soufflé.
For the fifth degree boil still longer, trying it in the same manner,
but blowing harder, the bladders will be larger and adhere together,
forming feathers; this degree is called la plume, or the feather.
The sixth is called le petit casée, and is obtained by boiling the sugar
a little longer: to know this degree have a pint of cold water in a
basin, into which you have put a piece of ice, dip your finger into it,
then into the boiling sugar, and then into the water again, take the
piece which adheres to the finger and bite, if rather crisp, but
sticking to the teeth, it has attained that degree.
The seventh and last requires great attention, to attain it boil rather
longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and does not at all
adhere to the teeth in biting it is done, take from the fire, and it is
ready for use for making any kind of sugar ornament.
When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tartaric acid
when it arrives to the degree la plume and pour it into a smaller
sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will be then unable to burn
round the sides as if in a larger pan; if such a thing should, however,
happen in a larger pan, wipe the interior of the pan round with a sponge
previously dipped in cold water, or it would discolor the sugar.
Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for a dinner;
but, if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last degree. Should
the sugar grain it may be brought back by adding more water, and when
dissolved, boiling over again; in spinning sugar you must keep the bulk
of it in a warm temperature, having a little in a smaller pan for use,
which keep in a melted state by placing it in a bain-marie of hot water,
or in a hot closet.
832. _Silk Thread, or Spun Sugar._--Having boiled your sugar to the
seventh degree, as in the last, oil the handle of a wooden spoon, tie
two forks together, the prongs turned outwards, dip them lightly into
the sugar, take out and shake them to and fro, the sugar running from
them over the spoon forming fine silken threads, proceeding thus until
you have as much as you require, take it from the spoon and form it with
your hands into whatever may be directed for the garnishing of any dish,
not, however, too thick, or it would look heavy. An experienced hand
would prefer doing it from the lip of the sugar-pan.
Other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar manner by
oiling a mould or shape and running fillets of the sugar from the lip of
the pan over it as tastefully as possible, but as I have not referred to
it in this work I will not enter into its details. These are more fit
for suppers than dinners.