with half a pound of sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon, in
another stewpan have a quart of milk, and when boiling throw in two
sticks of vanilla, draw it from the fire, place on the lid and let
remain until partly cold, pour it over the eggs and sugar in the other
stewpan, mix well, and place it over the fire (keeping it stirred) until
it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a
tammy into a basin, let remain until cold, then have ready a pewter
freezing-pot in an ice-pail well surrounded with ice and salt;[8] put
the above preparation into it, place on the lid, which must fit rather
tightly, and commence twisting the pot round sharply, keeping it turned
for about ten minutes, when take off the lid, and with your spatula
clear the sides of the interior of the pot, place the lid on again, turn
the pot ten minutes longer, when again clear the sides and beat the
whole well together, until smooth, it being then about half frozen, then
add four glasses of noyeau or maresquino and a pint and a half of cream
well whipped, beat the whole well together, place the lid upon the top,
keep twisting it round a quarter of an hour, clear well from the sides,
beat again well together, proceeding thus until the whole is frozen into
a stiff but smooth and mellow substance; should you require to keep it
some time before serving, pour the water which has run from the ice out
of the pail, and add fresh ice and salt; when ready to serve work it up
smoothly with your spatula, fill the mould and proceed as No. 778.
834. _Coffee Ice Cream._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but omitting
the noyeau or maresquino, and making an infusion with coffee as directed
(No. 40) instead of vanilla.
835. _Ice of Chocolate_ is made similar to the vanilla ice cream, but
omitting the vanilla and liqueur, in the room of which scrape a quarter
of a pound of chocolate, place it in a stewpan over the fire and keep
stirring until melted, then have ready boiling a quart of milk, which
mix with the chocolate by degrees, finish with eggs and sugar, and
freeze as before.
836. _Ice of Pine-apple._--Procure a rather small pine-apple, take off
the rind, which reserve, and cut the apple into pieces an inch in length
and about the thickness of a quill, place them in a sugar-pan, with half
a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, set it upon the fire and
reduce to a rather thickish syrup, have ready a pint and a half of milk
upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind of the
pine-apple, cover it over and let infuse ten minutes; in another stewpan
have the yolks of twelve eggs, to which add the milk by degrees
(previously straining it), place over the fire, keeping it stirred until
adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a
basin, add the syrup and pine-apple, and freeze it as in the last,
adding a pint and a half of whipped cream; when half frozen, use where
directed.
837. _Lemon Ice Cream._--Take the rind from six lemons as thin as
possible and free from pith, squeeze the juice of the lemons into a
sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, place it
upon the fire and reduce until rather a thickish syrup, have a pint and
a half of milk upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind
of the lemons, cover over and let remain until half cold; in another
stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs (to which you have added an ounce
of sugar), with which mix the milk by degrees, and stir over the fire
till it adheres to the back of the spoon, when stir in the syrup and
pass it through a tammy; when cold, freeze as directed (No. 833), adding
a pint of whipped cream when half frozen.
838. _Orange Ice Cream._--Proceed precisely as in the last, but using
the juice and rind of ten oranges instead of lemons as there directed.
839. _Apricot Ice Cream._--Procure a dozen and a half of fine ripe
apricots, which cut in halves, take out the stones, which break,
extracting the kernels, which blanch in very hot water and skin, then
put them with the apricots into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar
and half a glassful of water, let them boil until almost forming a
marmalade, when put them by in a basin, have the yolks of twelve eggs in
a stewpan, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, set over
the fire, keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back of
the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a basin, add the syrup and
apricots, and, when cold, three glasses of noyeau, freeze as in No. 833,
and, when half frozen, add a pint of good whipped cream.
840. _Strawberry Ice Cream._--Procure about two pounds of fine ripe
strawberries, which pick and rub through a hair-sieve with a wooden
spoon, obtaining all the juice and pulp of the strawberries, with which
mix half a pound of powdered sugar and put it by in a basin; in a
stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, with which mix by degrees a pint
and a half of milk, stir over the fire until it becomes thickish,
adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy, and
when cold add the juice from the strawberries and three glasses of
maraschino, freeze it as directed (No. 833), adding a pint of whipped
cream when half frozen and sufficiently prepared; cochineal, to give it
a strawberry color, if approved of.
841. _Marmalade of Apple._--Peel and cut thirty apples in slices, taking
out the cores, and, if for preserving, to every pound of fruit put three
quarters of a pound of broken sugar (but, if for immediate use, half a
pound would be quite sufficient), place the whole in a large
preserving-pan, with half a spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind
of a lemon chopped very fine, set the pan over a sharp fire, stirring it
occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather
thick; it is then done: if for immediate use, a smaller quantity would
be sufficient, which put by in a basin until cold; but if to keep any
time put it in jars, which cover over with paper, and tie down until
wanted.
842. _Marmalade of Apricots._--Stone about eight pounds of ripe fleshy
apricots, break the stones, and blanch and skin the kernels, which with
the apricots put into a preserving-pan, add six pounds of sugar and
place it over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until boiling, when
keep stirring until becoming rather thick, take it off, put it in jars,
and when cold tie paper over, and put by until ready for use.
843. _Quince Jam Purée._--Procure a sieve of fine ripe quinces, which
peel and cut in four, taking out the cores, place them in a large
preserving-pan and cover with cold water; set upon the fire, and when
boiling and tender to the touch, place them in a large sieve to drain
one hour, pass them through a tammy, then have ready a corresponding
weight of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 831) in the
preserving-pan, to which add the purée of quinces, keep stirring over
the fire till forming thin sheets, drop a little upon the cover of a
stewpan, if it sets quickly take it from the fire, put it in small jars,
and let remain a day until quite cold, when tie them down, and put by
until wanted.
844. _Apricot Marmalade Jam._--Procure a quantity of very ripe
apricots, each of which cut into four or six pieces, break the stones
and blanch the kernels, put the apricots in a preserving-pan with a
small quantity of water, boil them until quite tender, when pass them
through a sieve; to every pound of fruit have three quarters of a pound
of sugar (in a preserving-pan) boiled to the sixth degree (No. 831), add
the apricots with their kernels, and keep stirring over the fire, until
forming thin transparent sheets, try when done as in the last, and put
away in pots. The marmalade would be still more transparent if you were
to peel the apricots first, but then you would lose some of their
delicious flavor.
845. _Marmalade of Cherries._--Procure a sieve of bright Kentish
cherries, pull out the stalks and stones, and put the fruit in a
preserving-pan, place over the fire, keeping it stirred until reduced to
two-thirds; have in another preserving-pan, to every pound of fruit,
half a pound of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 831), into which
pour the fruit when boiling hot, let reduce, keep stirring until you can
just see the bottom of the pan, when take it from the fire, and fill
your jars as before.
A plainer way is to take off the stalks and stone the fruit, place them
in a pan over a sharp fire, and to every pound of fruit add nearly a
pound of sugar, keep stirring until reduced as above, and let it get
partly cold in the pan before filling the jars.
846. _Strawberry Jam._--Pick twelve pounds of very red ripe
strawberries, which put into a preserving-pan, with ten pounds of sugar
(broken into smallish pieces), place over a sharp fire, keep continually
stirring, boiling it until the surface is covered with clearish bubbles,
try a little upon a cover, if it sets, fill the jars as before.
847. _Raspberry Jam._--Pick twelve pounds of raspberries, and pass them
through a fine sieve to extract the seeds, boil as many pounds of sugar
as you have pounds of fruit to the sixth degree (No. 831), when add the
pulp of the fruit, keep stirring over the fire, reducing it until you
can just see the bottom of the pan, take it from the fire, and put it
into jars as before.
848. _Jelly of Apple._--Cut six dozen of sound rennet apples in
quarters, take out all the pips, put them into a sugar-pan, just cover
them with cold water, and place over the fire, let boil until the apples
become quite pulpy, when drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in
a basin, which afterwards pass through a new and very clean jelly-bag;
to every pint of liquor have one pound of sugar, which boil to the sixth
degree as directed (831); when, whilst hot, mix in the liquor from the
apple with a very clean skimmer; to prevent it boiling over keep it
skimmed, lift the skimmer occasionally from the pan, and when the jelly
falls from it in thin sheets, take it up and fill the pots as before;
the smaller pots are the best adapted for jellies.
849. _Jelly of Quince._--Proceed exactly as directed in the last, but
using quinces instead of apples.
850. _Sweetmeat of Currant Jelly._--Put half a sieve of fine red
currants in a large stewpan, with a gallon of white currants and a
gallon of raspberries, add a quart of water, place over the fire, keep
stirring, to prevent them sticking to the bottom, and let boil about ten
minutes, pour them into a sieve to drain, catching the juice in a basin
and draining the currants quite dry, pass the juice whilst hot through a
clean jelly-bag, have a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and
proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly. Should you have time to
pick the currants from the stalks previous to boiling, you would lose
that bitter flavor, and have less difficulty in making your jelly clear.
851. _Currant Jelly_ is made precisely as in the last, omitting the
raspberries, the difference being in the use; the last being adapted for
the garnishing of pastry, and this to use for sauces, or to serve with
hares, venison, or any other meat, where required.
A more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the fruit through
a sieve, and afterwards squeeze it through a fine linen cloth, put it
into a preserving-pan with, to every pint of juice, three quarters of a
pound of white sugar; place over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally
with a skimmer, keeping it well skimmed; it is done when dropping in
sheets as before from the skimmer. For my own part, I prefer this last
simple method, being quicker done, and retaining more of the full
freshness of the fruit.
It is not my intention to give a description of the various methods
of preserving fruits, which belongs to the confectionery
department; that I shall do in the Letters from the Farm; I have,
however, given the few foregoing receipts, they being required for
reference from various parts of this work, and being all that are
required for the garnishing of dishes for the second course;
various other fruits may, however, be made into marmalades and
jellies by following those few simple directions.
SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS.
You will perceive, my dear Eloise, that there is no end to the
variation of dishing fruits for desserts; the following being more
simple than any, and within the reach of almost every individual.
852. _Salad of Oranges._--Select four good oranges, the thinnest rind
ones are preferable; cut them crosswise into slices double the thickness
of a crown-piece, dress them round upon your dish, one piece resting
half-way upon the other; shake one ounce of sifted sugar over, pour over
a good tablespoonful of brandy, and it is ready; to serve it out, put
two pieces upon the plate of each guest, with a spoonful of the syrup.
Slices of red Malta oranges, dressed alternately with the other, has a
pleasing effect. Any kind of liquor may be used, as also might whiskey,
rum, or that white cream or blue devil commonly called g----; dear me, I
quite forget the name.
853. _Salad of Strawberries._--Pick the stalks from a pottle of very
fine strawberries, which put into a basin with half a teaspoonful of
powdered cinnamon, two glasses of brandy, and an ounce of sifted sugar,
toss them lightly over, and dress them in pyramid upon your dish,
pouring the syrup over; these should only be dressed a few minutes
before serving; the brandy might be omitted. If handy, a glass of
maraschino, substituted for brandy, makes them delicious.
854. _Salad of Peaches._--Procure four ripe peaches, which peel and cut
into quarters; put them into a basin with two ounces of sugar and a
glass of sherry, toss them lightly over, dress upon your dish and serve.
Apricots, greengages, and other plums are dressed in salads in the same
manner, leaving their skins on.
855. _Salad of Currants and Raspberries._--Put an equal quantity of
each, making rather more than a pint, into a basin, with two ounces of
powdered sugar-candy, and a little powdered cinnamon, toss them over
lightly, and they are ready to serve.
856. _Pine Apples._--I have tried several experiments with the West
Indian pine-apples, many of which being rather stale when they arrive
here, would make an unsightly appearance whole upon the table, but made
into a compote or salad, they are really excellent, having also the
advantage of being very cheap.
For a _compote_, peel one rather thickly, to leave no black spots upon
it, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar, as directed (No. 831), cut
your pine-apple into round slices a quarter of an inch in thickness,
which put into the syrup, boiling them ten minutes; take them out with a
colander-spoon, reduce the syrup until thickish, and pour it over the
pine-apple; when cold it is ready to serve.
For a _salad_, peel and cut a pine-apple into small square dice, which
put into a basin with two ounces of sugar-candy (powdered) and a glass
of noyeau, toss all well together and serve.
For _marmalade_, pair and cut into small pieces several small
pine-apples, and to every quart thus cut up add one pound of fine sugar,
boil for half an hour, and put in a pot.
857. _Cake of Savoy in mould._--Have ready a large high mould lightly
buttered (with a soft brush, and clarified butter), turn the mould up to
drain, and when the butter is quite set throw some finely sifted sugar
into it; move the mould round until the sugar has adhered to every part,
after which turn out the superfluous sugar, tie a band of buttered paper
round at the top, and place it in a cool place until the mixture is
ready. Place the yolks of fourteen eggs in a basin, with one pound of
sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of two lemons previous to
pounding), beat well together with a wooden spoon until nearly white,
then whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, add them to the yolks and
sugar, with six ounces of flour and six ounces of potato-flour, mix the
whole lightly but well together, and fill the mould rather more than
three parts full, place it in a very moderate oven one hour, keeping the
oven-door shut; then try when done as directed in the last, if done take
off the paper and turn it out upon a sieve until quite cold. The above
mixture being more delicate than the last, would not do so well for
removes, but may be used for that purpose by being made three or four
days before it is required.
858. _Savoy Cakes, or Ladies' Fingers._--Have the weight of nine eggs of
sugar in a bowl, which put into a bain-marie of hot water, weigh the
same weight of flour, which sift through a wire sieve upon paper, break
the eggs into a bowl, and proceed as directed for sponge-cake; then with
a paper funnel or bag, with a thin pipe made for that purpose, lay it
out upon papers into biscuits three inches in length and the thickness
of your little finger, sift sugar over, shaking off all that does not
adhere to them; place them upon baking-sheets, and bake in rather a warm
oven of a brownish-yellow color, when done and cold, detach them from
the paper by wetting it at the back, place them a short time to dry, and
they are ready for use for charlotte russe, or wherever directed.
859. _Sponge Cake._--Put one pound of powdered sugar in a good-sized
bowl, which stand in a bain-marie of hot water; sift one pound of flour
upon a sheet of paper, then break twelve eggs into the bowl with the
sugar, which whisk rather quickly until they become a little warm and
rather thickish, then take the bowl from the bain-marie, and continue
whisking until nearly or quite cold; then add the chopped rind of a
lemon and the flour, which mix lightly with a wooden spoon; have ready
your mould or baking-dish lightly buttered, into which you have put a
little flour, knocking out all that does not adhere to the butter, pour
in the mixture and place it one hour in a moderate oven, it may require
longer or not so long, but that will depend entirely upon the compass
you have it in; if done it will feel firm to the touch, but the surest
method is to run a thin wooden skewer into the centre, if it comes out
clean the cake is done, but if not some of the mixture would adhere to
it; care should be taken not to disturb it until quite set, or it would
sink in the centre, and never properly bake; when done turn it out upon
a sieve to cool. Serve where indicated.
860. _Small Sponge Cakes._--Put six whole eggs into an earthen pan with
half a pound of sugar, upon which you have previously rubbed the rind of
a lemon, stand the pan in very hot water, keeping its contents well
mixed until becoming rather warm, when take it from the water,
continuing to whisk until quite cold and thickish, when stir in gently
half a pound of sifted flour; have ready buttered, and dusted with
sugar, about a dozen small sponge-cake tins, put a tablespoonful of the
mixture into each, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven.
861. _Pound Cakes._--Put one pound of butter into an earthen pan with a
pound of powdered sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, beat them well
together with the hand until forming a smooth lightish cream, when add
by degrees eight eggs, beating it ten minutes after, when add a pound
and a quarter of sifted flour, stir it in lightly, and put the mixture
into hoops to bake.
862. _Queen's Cakes._--Weigh of butter the weight of six eggs, and nine
of powdered sugar, which put together in an earthen pan, heat well with
the hand until forming a smooth cream, when add by degrees nine eggs,
and when well beat, stir in the weight of nine eggs of flour and half a
pound of currants; have ready buttered about a dozen little round cake
pans, fill each one rather better than three parts full with the
mixture, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven. If no cake
pans, drop the mixture upon paper in pieces half the size of a walnut,
and an inch and a half apart, shake sugar over, bake in a warm oven,
and, when done, remove them from the papers.
863. _Almond Cakes._--Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add
two pounds of powdered sugar, mixing the whole with the whites of nine
eggs, beating the mixture well with a wooden spoon for about ten
minutes, lay them out upon wafer paper of an oval shape with a
tablespoon, put three or four strips of almonds upon the top of each,
and bake them in a slow oven; when done, break away all the wafer paper
but that which adheres to the bottom of the paper, and, when cold, they
are ready for use.
864. _Cocoa-Nut Biscuits._--Scrape four cocoa nuts, to which add the
same weight of powdered sugar, mix with whites of eggs, beating with a
wooden spoon until forming a softish but thick paste; lay the mixture
out upon wafer-paper in small drops, baking them as directed in the
last.
865. _Moss Biscuits._--Weigh half a pound of flour, to which add an
ounce and a half of butter and five ounces of sugar, rub them well
together and mix with one whole and one white of egg and a teaspoonful
of milk; then add two ounces of ground almonds, which rub well into the
paste; afterwards rub the whole through a gauze wire sieve, taking it
off in small pieces, which lay upon a lightly-buttered baking-sheet, and
bake them in a moderate oven.
866. _Rout Cakes._--Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add
one pound of powdered sugar, mixing them together with yolks of eggs
until forming a stiffish but flexible paste, when form it into small
biscuits of the shapes of coronets, bunches of filberts, birds' nests,
or any other shapes your fancy may dictate; let them remain five or six
hours, or all night, upon the baking-sheet, and bake them in a warm
oven.
867. _Rout Biscuits._--Boil a pound and a quarter of lump sugar, upon
which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, in half a pint of milk; when
cold, rub half a pound of butter with two pounds of flour, make a hole
in the centre, pour in the milk with as much carbonate of soda as would
lie upon a sixpence, and a couple of eggs, mix the whole into a smooth
paste, lay it out upon your baking-sheet in whatever flat shapes you
please, and bake them in a very warm oven.
The proper way to shape these biscuits is by wooden blocks having
leaves, pine-apples, and other devices carved upon them.
868. _Cream Biscuits._--Rub one pound of fresh butter into one pound of
flour, make a hole in the centre, into which put half a pound of
powdered sugar upon which the rind of a lemon was rubbed previously to
pounding, and three whole eggs, mix the eggs well with the sugar, and
then mix all together, forming a flexible paste; cut it into round
pieces each nearly as large as a walnut, stamp them flat with a
butter-stamp of the size of a crown-piece, and bake them in a slack
oven.
869. _Shrewsbury Cakes._--Weigh one pound of flour, into which rub half
a pound of butter and six ounces of flour, make a hole in the centre,
into which break a couple of eggs, and add sufficient milk to form a
flexible paste, which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece, and
cut it into small cakes with a round cutter; bake them in a moderate
oven.
_Ginger Cakes_ are made precisely as the above, but adding half an ounce
of ground ginger before mixing; and _Cinnamon Cakes_, by rubbing in an
ounce and a half of ground cinnamon after the paste is mixed.
870. _Macaroons._--Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry
them well in your screen, then put them into a mortar with a pound and a
half of lump sugar, pound well together, and pass the whole through a
wire sieve; put it again into a mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix
well together with the pestle, then add the white of another egg,
proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eight eggs and
made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances, apart upon
wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place some strips of
almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in a slow oven of a
yellowish brown color; they are done when set quite firm through.
871. _Ratafias._--Ratafias are made similar to the above, but deducting
two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of bitter almonds; they are
laid out in much smaller cakes upon common paper, and baked in a much
warmer oven; when cold, they may be taken off the paper with the
greatest ease.
These cakes are very serviceable in making a great many second-course
dishes.
872. _Italian Drops._--Have a mixture similar to the above, merely a
liqueur glassful of best noyeau, lay it in round drops upon paper, and
bake in a hot oven without sifting any sugar over; when taken from the
papers, dry them a little in the screen, and they are ready to serve.
The bottoms may be spread over with apricot marmalade, and two stuck
together just previous to being served, if approved of.