pound of chopped suet, three quarters of a pound of grated carrot, a
quarter of a pound of raisins stoned, a quarter of a pound of currants,
and a quarter of a pound of sugar, brown or sifted white; place these in
a mould or dish, beat up two whole eggs, the yolks of four in a gill of
milk, grate a little nutmeg in it, and add it to the former; bake or
steam forty-five minutes.
PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS.
The principal one, and the most celebrated, is the plum pudding.
762. _Plum Pudding._--Pick and stone one pound of the best Malaga
raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of currants (well washed,
dried, and picked), a pound and a half of good beef suet (chopped, but
not too fine), three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar, two
ounces of candied lemon-and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron,
six ounces of flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a
little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole eggs
and a little milk; have ready a plain or ornamented pudding-mould, well
butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, cover a sheet of
paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the pudding into a large
stewpan containing boiling water, and let boil quite fast for four hours
and a half (or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding-cloth
previously well floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a
round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no
difference in the time required for boiling); when done, take out of the
cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle a little powdered
sugar over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat: Put the yolks
of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of powdered sugar, and a
gill of milk; mix well together, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over
the fire until becoming thickish (but do not let it boil), when add two
glasses of brandy, and serve separate.
The above sauce may be served, poured over the pudding, if approved of.
An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of
beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same quantity of suet.
763. _Rowley Powley._--Roll out about two pounds of paste (No. 685),
cover it with any jam or marmalade you like, roll it over and tie it
loose in a cloth, well tying each end; boil one hour and serve, or cut
it in slices and serve with sauce over.
764. _Plum Bolster, or Spotted Dick._--Roll out two pounds of paste
(No. 685), having some Smyrna raisins well washed, and place them on it
here and there, roll over, tie in a cloth, and boil one hour, and serve
with butter and brown sugar.
765. _Plain Bolster._--Roll as above, sift some white or brown sugar
over it, the addition of a little powdered cinnamon to the sugar is an
improvement, roll over and proceed as before.
766. _Apple Dumplings._--Peel and cut out the core with a cutter, cover
it with paste (No. 685), tie in a cloth, and boil according to size;
these are all the better for being boiled and kept in the cloth, hung up
for four or six weeks, and re-warmed. They may likewise be baked. These
kind of boiled puddings, containing a large quantity of paste, should be
made with flour, in which is mixed one saltspoonful of culinary alkali
powder to four pounds of flour, which will cause them to be much
lighter.
PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES.
767. _Marrow Pudding_ may be made in various ways; it is best with half
a pound of ladies' finger cakes, and a quarter of a pound of beef
marrow, chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of currants well cleaned,
half an ounce of candied lemon-peel, a little nutmeg, a tablespoonful of
powdered sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a wineglassful of wine
or brandy: put these on a dish, and fill up with custard, having
previously put a border of paste on the rim; about half an hour will do
it.
768. _Custard Pudding._--Make a border of paste on the dish, and fill up
with custard, grate a little nutmeg on the top.
Any kind of fruit puddings with custard may be made in the same way, by
placing them in the custard, and sift some finely powdered sugar over,
before going to the baker's.
769. _Fruit Puddings_ are best made in a basin, the basin to be buttered
and lined with the paste, and then filled with the fruit, which cover
with the paste, the paste should be rolled round to the thickness of
half an inch, and when the fruit is in, drawn to the centre and
squeezed, and then tied up in a cloth kept on purpose, and boiled in
plenty of water; when done, which will be according to the nature of the
fruit you put in it, serve it either turned out of the basin or not. The
cover should be of the same thickness as the sides. Sugar should be
added before being covered.
770. _Apples_ should be pared, cored, and cut in quarters, and put in
with some sugar, a few cloves, and a bit of lemon-peel.
771. _Wall fruit--as Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and Plums_,--should
he cut in half, and the kernels extracted from the stones and added, a
little cream, according to the size of the pudding, in which a little
grated cinnamon is added, may be put in at the same time as the fruit;
use but little sugar.
772. _Gooseberry, Rhubarb, Currants, red, white, and black, Raspberry
and Cherry, Blackberry, Whorts, Damson, and Greengage_--may all be made
in a similar way.
773. _Mince Meat._--Procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet,
which skin and chop very finely; have also a quarter of a pound of
candied lemon and orange-peel; the same of citron, a pound and a half of
lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the whole
separately, chopped very fine, and put into a large pan with four pounds
and a half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed
spice, and two pounds of sugar; mix the whole well together with the
juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and tie
down until ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well
stoned and chopped, may likewise be added to the above. It is ready for
use in a few days.
774. _Mince Pies._--Have a piece of puff-paste, which roll out to the
thickness of a penny-piece; have also a dozen tartlet-pans, which
lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with a round cutter from the
paste, each the size of your tartlet-pans; lay them upon the slab, roll
the trimming of the paste again to the former thickness, cut twelve
other pieces, with which line the tartlet-pans; put a piece of
mince-meat, made as under, in each, wet them round, place on the lids,
pricking a hole with a pin in the centre, and close them well at the
edges; egg over lightly, and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate
oven.
775. _Fruit Pies._--These are made in pie-dishes, the top of which is
only covered with paste; the edge of the dish should be wetted, and a
strip of paste, about one inch wide and a quarter of an inch thick, put
on it, then fill the dish with the fruit, wet the paste on the edge, and
cover with paste, mark the edge with a roller, or the back of a knife.
776. _Apple Pie._--Pare, cut, and core sufficient apples to fill the
dish, put a small cup in the middle or not, as you like, one clove, to
every three apples, a pinch of pounded cinnamon, a small piece of
chopped lemon-peel, and sugar; bake according to size.
777. _Rhubarb and Apple_, or _Rhubarb and Gooseberry, Currant and
Raspberry, Cherry, Plum, Damson, Pear, Quince, Mulberry, Whortleberry_,
or _Whorts and Raspberry, Dewberry and Raspberry_, or _Cranberry_, may
all be made in the same way, in winter. A little whipped cream may be
placed in the top, for a variety.
REMOVES--SECOND COURSE.
778. _Chestnut Pudding, Nesselrode fashion._--Blanch four dozen
chestnuts in boiling water, skim and place them in the screen, when dry
take them out, and when cold put them into a mortar, with one pound of
sugar, and half a stick of vanilla, pound the whole well together, and
sift it through a fine wire sieve, put into a stewpan, with the yolks of
twelve eggs, beat them well together; in another stewpan have a quart
of milk, when boiling pour it over the other ingredients, mixing well,
and stir over a sharp fire until it begins to thicken and adheres to the
back of the spoon, then lay a tammy upon a large dish, pour the mixture
in and rub it through with two wooden spoons; when cold place it in a
freezing-pot and freeze as directed (No. 833); when frozen have a large
high ice-mould, which closes hermetically, have also two ounces of
currants and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, soaked in four glasses of
marasquino from the previous day, with four ounces of candied citron cut
in dice, put them into the freezing-pot, with a pint of whipped cream
and half the meringue preparation directed in No. 711; freeze the whole
well together and fill your mould, which bury in ice and salt until
ready to serve, then dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon
your dish.
779. _Iced Cabinet Pudding._--Have ready prepared, and rather stale, a
sponge-cake as directed (No. 859), which cut into slices half an inch
thick, and rather smaller than the mould you intend making the pudding
in, soak them well with noyeau brandy; then lay some preserved dry
cherries at the bottom of the mould, with a few whole ratafias, lay one
of the slices over, then more cherries and ratafias, proceeding thus
until the mould is three parts full; have ready a quart of the custard
(No. 804), omitting half the quantity of isinglass, pour it lukewarm
into your mould, which close hermetically, and bury in ice and salt,
where let it remain at least two hours; when ready to serve dip it in
lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; you have made about half
a pint of custard, which keep upon ice, pour over the pudding when ready
to serve, and sprinkle a few chopped pistachios over.
780. _White Almond Pudding Ices._--Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound
of sweet almonds, with six or eight bitter ones, when dry and cold,
place them in a mortar, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, and ten
or twelve leaves of candied orange-flowers, pound well, sift through a
wire sieve, and place it in a stewpan, with the yolks of eight eggs,
beat them well together; then in another stewpan have boiling a pint
and a half of milk, which pour over the other ingredients by degrees,
keeping it stirred, place it upon the fire, stirring until it thickens
and adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammy, add two
glasses of noyeau; when cold put into your freezing-pot to freeze, and
when half frozen add a pint and a half of whipped cream, when quite
frozen fill a mould, and serve as pudding Nesselrode fashion.
781. _Fruit, Chartreuse of, with Lemon Jelly._--Make a chartreuse of
fruit as directed (No. 752), in a round or oval mould, having a quantity
of fruit left; having also about a quart of orange jelly, which place
upon ice in a bowl, whisking it until on the point of setting, then
place a layer of it in the chartreuse, then a layer of the fruit, the
jelly, and so on until quite filled, place it upon ice, and when set and
ready to serve, dip in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish;
serve garnished round with jelly in the skins of the oranges, cut in
quarters after it has set, or leave out the garnishing.
782. _Soufflé of Orange Iced._--Prepare about three parts of the
quantity of ice as directed in the last, to which, when half frozen, add
a pint and a half of whipped orange jelly just upon the point of
setting, beat the whole well together with the spatula, working it until
well frozen: have a dozen and a half of oranges, peeled, quartered, and
passed in sugar as directed for vol-au-vent, and place them in a basin
upon ice; when ready to serve, make a border of almond paste upon your
dish, in the centre of which put a little of the ice, then a layer of
oranges, then the same and oranges again, proceeding thus and finishing
in pyramid; garnish round with various small ripe fruits.
783. _Punch Cake Soufflé._--Break ten eggs, put the whites in a copper
bowl, and the yolks in a basin, with four tablespoonfuls of powdered
sugar, four of crushed ratafias, two of potato flour, a little salt, and
a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, beat well together,
whip the whites, which stir in lightly with the mixture; well butter and
bread-crumb the interior of an oval plain mould, butter also and
bread-crumb a band of paper three inches broad, which tie round at the
top of the mould, pour in the mixture, and half an hour before ready to
serve stand it in a moderate oven (it will take about the above time to
bake), when done turn it out upon your dish; have ready a custard of
three yolks of eggs, to which you have added two glasses of essence of
punch, pour round the cake and serve.
The above mixture may be baked in twelve small moulds and dressed in
pyramid, but then they would require more sauce.
SOUFFLÉ.
These dishes, being the last of the Dinner, require the greatest
care and taste in executing, as, by the time they come on the
table, the appetites of those around it are supposed to be
satisfied; the eye and the palate require to be pleased, in order
to sustain the enjoyments of the table; this is a period of dinner
when another of the senses may be gratified by the introduction of
music (and which is continually practised on the Continent), and
all ought to be of a light and inviting character.
Formerly it was the custom never to give a dinner without a soufflé
as the last dish, or professionally speaking, remove. I do not
dislike them, but they require the greatest care and nicety, and
are rather difficult to perform in our old-fashioned kitchens, but
easy in my new stove; at any rate I must give you the receipt.
784. _Soufflé of Lemon, or any other flavor._--Prepare a crust or
croustade of fine paste (No. 687), or water paste, by lining a raised
pie-mould with it, filling with bread-crumbs, and finishing the edges as
for a raised pie; bake it (of a very light brown color) about an hour in
a moderate oven, when done, empty out all the bread-crumbs without
taking it out of the mould, then tie a band of buttered paper (four
inches wide) round the top, and put it by until wanted. Put half a pound
of butter in a stewpan, with which mix three quarters of a pound of
flour without melting it, in another stewpan have rather more than a
quart of milk, into which, when boiling, put two sticks of vanilla,
place a cover upon the stewpan and let it remain until half cold, then
take out the vanilla, and pour the milk upon the butter and flour, stir
over a sharp fire, boiling it five minutes, then stir in quickly the
yolks of ten eggs, and sweeten with half a pound of sugar; when cold,
and an hour and a quarter before you are ready to serve, whip the
whites of the ten eggs very stiff, stir them in with the mixture
lightly, pour it into the croustade, and bake about an hour in a
moderate oven; if going too fast, and liable to be done before required,
open the oven door, as it ought to be served the moment it is done; when
ready to serve take it from the oven, detach the band of paper, take it
from the mould, dress it upon a napkin on a dish, and serve immediately.
These soufflés may be baked in a silver soufflé-case, if preferred, they
will take considerably less time in baking, but fall quicker after being
taken from the oven; any liquor or spirits may be introduced in soufflés
of this description if approved of.
This is large enough for a dinner of eighteen; a quarter of that
quantity will make a nice family one, baked in a plain tart-dish.
785. _Soufflé of Orange-flowers._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but
infusing an ounce of candied orange-flowers in the milk instead of the
vanilla.
786. _Soufflé of Rice Cream_ is made by using ground rice instead of the
common flour, finishing the same, and using any of the flavors directed
in the last three.
787. _Soufflé of Lemon._--Proceed as directed for soufflé à la vanille,
but infusing the rind of two lemons, free from pith, in the milk instead
of the vanilla.
788. _Omelette Soufflé._--Break six eggs, place the yolks in one basin
and the whites in another; add to the yolks three tablespoonfuls of lump
sugar, half one of fecule of potato or wheat flour, and ten drops of
orange-flower water; beat well together; whip the whites, beginning
rather slowly at first, increasing by degrees, until it forms a stiff
froth; then add the yolks, very gently beating up the whites as you add
it: have ready a silver or plated dish (for want of either, use tin),
and butter it well; place the mixture on it, and put it into a hot oven;
look that it rises; if so, run a knife round it; sift some sugar on it,
place it in the oven again, and serve, when well raised, immediately.
789. _Omelette Soufflé Sauté._--The mixture is prepared precisely as the
last, but the appearance and flavor are very different, being produced
by the different method of cooking them; put an ounce of butter into a
very clean omelette-pan over the fire; when melted, pour in half the
preparation, place it over a very brisk fire a few seconds, then twist
it round in the pan, which give a jerk, tossing the omelette half-way
over, stand it over the fire again, give the pan another jerk, tossing
the omelette again over, and turn it out upon your dish, set it in the
oven, and proceed the same with the remainder of the preparation, which
when done turn over upon the other; leave it in the oven about a quarter
of an hour, sprinkle sugar over, salamander and serve very quickly. The
butter the soufflé is sauté in gives it a superior flavor to the last.
790. _Cream Omelette Soufflé._--Proceed as in the last, deducting two of
the whites of eggs, and adding a gill of whipped cream, sauté and serve
as before.
791. _Soufflé Biscuits._--Put the yolks of five eggs in a basin, and the
whites in a copper bowl, add a pound of sugar, upon which you have
rubbed the rind of a lemon previous to pounding, beat it well with the
yolks of the eggs, then add a gill of cream, well whipped, and five
ounces of flour; stir all together lightly, whip the whites of the eggs
very stiff, and stir them into the preparation; have ready ten small
paper cases, fill each one three parts full, and fifteen minutes before
serving place them in a moderate oven; when done shake sugar over, dress
in pyramids, upon a napkin, and serve.
792. _Soufflé, or Whipped Cream._--Take one quart of cream, put it into
a bowl, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and orange-flower
powder of water, and have another bowl near you, over which you must
place a sieve to receive and drain the cream, whip the cream with a
whisk, or blow it up with a bellows made on purpose, and as it rises in
a froth, take it off with a spoon, and place it on the sieve; continue
till all is used, then put back the drainings, and continue until you
have none left, then put it into your dish or in glasses, or on a
trifle, and ornament with nonpareils, or with green citron peel or
angelica cut very fine and tastefully. It can likewise be iced.
793. _Coffee Soufflé Cream._--Take about a quarter of a pound of clean
raw coffee, heat it in a clean sauté-pan on the fire, so that it gets
hot through, but does not burn, then put it into one quart of cream, and
cover it up; let it cool as quickly as possible on ice, add five ounces
of powdered sugar, and proceed as above.
794. _Vanilla Soufflé Cream._--Cut a pod of vanilla small, pound it with
sugar, sift it through a fine sieve, and add it to your cream, or add
some drops of essence of vanilla, and proceed as directed above.
795. _Fondue of Parmesan and Gruyère, or any other grated Cheese._--Put
a quarter of a pound of butter and six ounces of flour in a stewpan, mix
them well together (without melting the butter) with a wooden spoon,
then add rather more than a pint of boiling milk, stir over the fire,
boil twenty minutes, then add the yolks of five eggs (stir in well),
half a pound of grated Parmesan, and a quarter of a pound of grated
Gruyère cheese; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of
pepper, and half a saltspoonful of cayenne; if too thick add two or
three whole eggs to give it the consistency of a soufflé, whip the five
whites of egg firm, stir them gently into the mixture, have ready a
croustade prepared as for the soufflé (No. 784), pour in the above
mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven; it will require a little longer
time than the soufflé; dish and serve the same.
796. _Neapolitan Fondue._--Prepare half of the mixture as in the last,
but previous to adding the whites of eggs stir in a quarter of a pound
of good macaroni blanched, and cut into pieces an inch in length; add
the whites, bake, and serve as before.
797. _Fondue (simple method)._--Put two ounces of Gruyère and two
ounces of Parmesan cheese (grated) into a basin (or, if you have not got
them, use English cheese), with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, add
the yolks of six eggs, with a quarter of a pound of butter melted (mix
well), whip the whites of the six eggs, stir gently into the other
ingredients, fill small paper cases with it, bake about a quarter of an
hour in a moderate oven, dress upon a napkin, and serve very hot.
798. _Fondue of Stilton Cheese._--Put six ounces of butter and half a
pound of flour in a stewpan, rub well together with a wooden spoon, then
add a quart of warm milk, stir over the fire a quarter of an hour, then
add the yolks of eight eggs, three quarters of a pound of grated
Parmesan, and half a pound of Stilton cheese in small dice, season
rather highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne, add the white of the eggs
whipped very stiff, which stir in lightly; have a dozen and a half of
small paper cases, fill each one three parts full, place them in a
moderate oven, bake about twenty minutes; when done dress them upon a
napkin on your dish, and serve very hot.
799. _Cheese Raminole._--Put a gill of water in a stewpan, to which add
two ounces of Gruyère and the same quantity of Parmesan cheese (grated),
two ounces of butter, a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required, set
it upon the fire, and when boiling stir in two or three spoonfuls of
flour; keep stirring over the fire until the paste becomes dryish and
the bottom of the stewpan quite white, then add three or four eggs by
degrees, until forming a paste like No. 724, butter a baking-sheet well,
and lay the paste out in pieces upon it with a tablespoon, making them
long, and half the size of the bowl of the spoon; egg over, and lay a
small piece of Gruyère cheese upon each, put them into the oven about
twenty minutes before they are required; bake them a little crisp, and
serve very hot, dressed in pyramid upon a napkin.
800. _Puff Cheesecake._--Make half a pound of paste (No. 686), which
roll very thin, have ready some grated Parmesan and Gruyère cheese
mixed, throw half a handful over the paste, which fold in three, roll it
out to the same thickness again, cover again with cheese, proceeding
thus until you have used the whole of the cheese (half a pound), then
cut them into any shapes you like with pastry cutters, set on a wet
baking-sheet, egg them over, bake a nice color in a moderate oven, dress
in pyramid upon a napkin on a dish, and serve very hot.
801. _Cheese Soufflé, or Diablotins._--Put a gill of milk in a stewpan,
with two ounces of butter; when boiling, stir in two spoonfuls of flour,
keep stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is dry, then
add four eggs by degrees, half a pound of Gruyère, and half a pound of
grated Parmesan cheese; mix well in, season with pepper, salt, and
cayenne rather highly, mould the paste into little balls with the
forefinger against the side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into
hot lard; fry of a nice light brown, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and
serve very hot; a quarter of that quantity may of course be made.